Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut - Revision history

HarryMann at 21:47, 4 July 2011

2011-07-04T21:47:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:47, 4 July 2011
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	Hehe! Psychonaut there appears to be tightening not loosening, but you get the idea :)		Hehe! Psychonaut there appears to be tightening not loosening, but you get the idea :)

			Whatever though, it isn't a bad idea to keep the wheel on and with full weight on that side (jack t'other) lock it up somehow, because stopping the axle moving is half the battle...

	====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====		====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====

HarryMann at 21:45, 4 July 2011

2011-07-04T21:45:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:45, 4 July 2011
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	[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]		[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]

	~~hehe, pschonaut~~ there appears to be tightening not loosening, but you get the idea :)		Hehe! Psychonaut there appears to be tightening not loosening, but you get the idea :)

	====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====		====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====

HarryMann at 21:45, 4 July 2011

2011-07-04T21:45:07Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:45, 4 July 2011
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	[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]		[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]

			hehe, pschonaut there appears to be tightening not loosening, but you get the idea :)

	====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====		====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====

CovKid: /* Breaker bars Vs T-bars */

2011-07-03T20:34:59Z

Breaker bars Vs T-bars

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:34, 3 July 2011
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	Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do)		Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do)
	A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)		A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)

	~~Alternatively, you need someone like Psychonaut!~~

	~~[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]~~

	====EMPI style Impact wrench====		====EMPI style Impact wrench====

CovKid: /* Breaker bars Vs T-bars */

2011-07-03T20:22:19Z

Breaker bars Vs T-bars

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:22, 3 July 2011
Line 5:		Line 5:
	Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do)		Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do)
	A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)		A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)

			Alternatively, you need someone like Psychonaut!

			[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]

	====EMPI style Impact wrench====		====EMPI style Impact wrench====

CovKid: /* Breaker bars Vs T-bars */

2011-07-03T20:20:59Z

Breaker bars Vs T-bars

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:20, 3 July 2011
Line 1:		Line 1:
			[[Image:psychonaut.jpg]]

	====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====		====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====

HarryMann: /* Grinding and chiselling */

2009-09-10T00:35:08Z

Grinding and chiselling

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:35, 10 September 2009
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	====Grinding and chiselling====		====Grinding and chiselling====

	Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. ~~esle~~ chisel across to stretch ~~ground~~ area open and ~~loosen~~.		Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. Else chisel across to stretch thinned area open and break nut/thread bond.

	[[General Screw/bolt punch\|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]		[[General Screw/bolt punch\|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]

HarryMann: Created page with '====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank…'

2009-09-10T00:33:28Z

Created page with '====Breaker bars Vs T-bars==== Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank…'

New page

====Breaker bars Vs T-bars====

Rather than break a breaker bar (3/4" bars can be broken!) the correct tool for loosening and tightening is a 3/4" T-bar and 3/4" drive 46mm flank drive socket (although 3/4" bi-hex sockets are frequently supplied for this job and will do)
A pudlock to extend the T-bar is often needed (a pudlok or putlock is a 5' scaff pole flattened at one end)

====EMPI style Impact wrench====

[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|Empi hub-nut impact spanner]]

for removing difficult hub-nut easily, not recommended for torqueing back up.

====Grinding and chiselling====

Another way if the rear hub-nut is really stubborn: angle-grinder, skim but do not touch threads. Then sharp cross-cut chisel to split the nut off. Threads are very fine and easily damaged. Heavy dolly under nut if chiselling down. esle chisel across to stretch ground area open and loosen.

[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]

New nuts from Just Kampers (£4-50)

====Heating====

Heat (gas burner or carburizing oxy-acetylene flame) is sometimes used, but should be used with caution.