Syncro locker actuators removal - Revision history

HarryMann: /* Freeing-up seized difflocks */

2010-01-12T02:40:23Z

Freeing-up seized difflocks

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:40, 12 January 2010
Line 50:		Line 50:
	==Freeing-up seized difflocks==		==Freeing-up seized difflocks==

	'''Aidan:'' There's an 'O' ring on the outside of the alloy sleeve that seals it against the case and there's the most expensive oil seal in the world on the shaft itself. There's usully electrolytic corrosion in front of and just behind the seal, also certain chemicals seem to affect the seal and cause it to swell and deform (it's square section twin lipped thing) and become jammed.		'''Aidan:''' There's an 'O' ring on the outside of the alloy sleeve that seals it against the case and there's the most expensive oil seal in the world on the shaft itself. There's usully electrolytic corrosion in front of and just behind the seal, also certain chemicals seem to affect the seal and cause it to swell and deform (it's square section twin lipped thing) and become jammed.

	I recommend using gear oil as the lubricant, in through the tell tale hole and repetative manipulation in and out, with an allen key through the roll pin hole on a late (mid 86 build on) one. Early's with the short pin are a pain to free, they are like the front one, you were lucky with that, when the front is bad it's a diff out job; if you can't free the rear insitu then it's box out time to take the bellhousing off and strip the whole thing and do it on the bench. I have had to ream some sleeves they were that corroded.		I recommend using gear oil as the lubricant, in through the tell tale hole and repetative manipulation in and out, with an allen key through the roll pin hole on a late (mid 86 build on) one. Early's with the short pin are a pain to free, they are like the front one, you were lucky with that, when the front is bad it's a diff out job; if you can't free the rear insitu then it's box out time to take the bellhousing off and strip the whole thing and do it on the bench. I have had to ream some sleeves they were that corroded.

HarryMann: /* Diff-Lock Actuator Parts: */

2010-01-12T02:40:03Z

Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:40, 12 January 2010
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	*Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92<br>		*Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92<br>

	*Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 ~~(being~~ very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>		*Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35<br>
			Being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off<br>

	*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96 (compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly))<br>		*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96 (compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly))<br>
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	*Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26<br>		*Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26<br>
	*O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26<br>		*O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26<br>
	(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)<br>		O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)<br>

	==Freeing-up seized difflocks==		==Freeing-up seized difflocks==

HarryMann: /* Diff-Lock Actuator Parts: */

2010-01-12T02:38:44Z

Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:38, 12 January 2010
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	*Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 (being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>		*Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 (being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>

	*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96~~<br>~~		*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96 (compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly))<br>
	~~Compression~~ washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)<br>

	*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55<br>		*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55<br>

HarryMann: /* Diff-Lock Actuator Parts: */

2010-01-12T02:38:05Z

Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:38, 12 January 2010
Line 34:		Line 34:
	==Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:==		==Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:==

	Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit 251 711 822<br>		*Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit 251 711 822<br>
	Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92<br>		*Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92<br>

	Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 (being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>		*Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 (being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>

	Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96<br>		*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96<br>
	Compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)<br>		Compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)<br>

			*Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55<br>
	Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55<br>		*Spring-pin (roll-pin) (3dia. x 10mm) – (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23<br>
	Spring-pin (roll-pin) (3dia. x 10mm) – (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23<br>		*Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26<br>
	Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26<br>		*O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26<br>
	O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26<br>
	(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)<br>		(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)<br>

HarryMann: /* Diff-Lock Actuator Parts: */

2010-01-12T02:36:58Z

Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:36, 12 January 2010
Line 34:		Line 34:
	==Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:==		==Diff-Lock Actuator Parts:==

	Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit 251 711 822		Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit 251 711 822<br>
			Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92<br>

			Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35 (being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)<br>
	~~Vacuum Actuator (Throttle) Unit Bracket (Retainer) 094 301 142 £18-92~~


	Long thin bolt (2) secures Diff-lock unit (Throttle unit) to Bracket M4x55 N 100 538 01 £0-35

	(being very small the heads on these corrode and get rounded off)



	~~Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96~~

	~~Compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)~~


	~~Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55~~

			Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch 013 941 521 A £11-96<br>
	~~Spring~~-~~pin (roll~~-~~pin)~~ (~~3dia. x 10mm~~) ~~– (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23~~		Compression washer for above not supplied/unknown part no (being light alloys, the above two parts corrode very badly)<br>


	Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26		Diff-lock electric tell-tale switch rubber Cap 191 919 459 £1-55<br>
			Spring-pin (roll-pin) (3dia. x 10mm) – (Vac Actuator pushrod securing) N 013 294 2 £0-23<br>
			Circlip (Ring) – Pushrod Bush Retaining N 012 417 1 £0-26<br>
	O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26		O-ring for diff-lock pushrod bush (seals bush in transaxle or front diff unit) 19.7mm x 1.7mm O-ring N 902 621 01 £0-26<br>
			(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)<br>
	(O-ring can easily get damaged (split) when freeing up a seized pushrod; some don’t replace hoping a small oil weep will stop it seizing up again)

	==Freeing-up seized difflocks==		==Freeing-up seized difflocks==

HarryMann at 02:34, 12 January 2010

2010-01-12T02:34:49Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:34, 12 January 2010
Line 71:		Line 71:

	They are splash lubricated with gear oil through a little hole with no drain, as the oil becomes cruddier the crud builds up and the lube fails. Salt water seepage from without and it jams Shocked solid		They are splash lubricated with gear oil through a little hole with no drain, as the oil becomes cruddier the crud builds up and the lube fails. Salt water seepage from without and it jams Shocked solid


	~~==Links==~~

	==Diff-lock actuator strip-down (photo-article) ==		==Diff-lock actuator strip-down (photo-article) ==
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	Refitting is the reverse of removal, as they say.		Refitting is the reverse of removal, as they say.

			==Links==

HarryMann: /* Dif-lock actuator strip-down photo-journal */

2010-01-12T02:34:13Z

Dif-lock actuator strip-down photo-journal

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:34, 12 January 2010
Line 75:		Line 75:
	==Links==		==Links==

	==~~Dif~~-lock actuator strip-down photo-~~journal~~ ==		==Diff-lock actuator strip-down (photo-article) ==

	'''Diamond Hell:''' I had one of these on the floor today that needed to be stripped off and I had the camera handy, so you get some of this. Apologies about the state of it - blame Concorde, it's his.		'''Diamond Hell:''' I had one of these on the floor today that needed to be stripped off and I had the camera handy, so you get some of this. Apologies about the state of it - blame Concorde, it's his.

HarryMann: /* Other */

2010-01-12T02:33:38Z

Other

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:33, 12 January 2010
Line 75:		Line 75:
	==Links==		==Links==

	==~~Other~~==		==Dif-lock actuator strip-down photo-journal ==

			'''Diamond Hell:''' I had one of these on the floor today that needed to be stripped off and I had the camera handy, so you get some of this. Apologies about the state of it - blame Concorde, it's his.

			For the uninitiated the diff-locks on a Syncro are an essential part of the off-roading toolkit that could be specified on a Syncro - they provide massively improved traction off road and enable that wonderful wheel-waving that is so characteristic of a Syncro when it's 'on one' off road.
			The lockers are actuated by vacuum servos. These have a feed and return that are switched by the pull-out knobs on the dashboard. When one is actuated the actuator pushes in the pin, push the knob on the dash back in and the return pipe sucks to assist the spring to pull the locking pin back out. Dead simple and pretty damned effective..... if only they'd just used steel instead of steel and alloy on the locking pin...

			Anyhow, if at any point you need to service the lockers, or remove the gearbox or front diff it's safest to remove the actuator and brackets. This means you won't snap the vacuum feed pipes or bend the brackets etc.

			So, here's how to remove the little blighter:

			First off gently pull the vacuum pipes. Make a note of which one goes on the outside of the van and which is pushed onto the inside of it - this is very important, or you will find your locker is on when the dash knob should be setting it to off!

			There are two long 7mm headed bolts that you need to undo and pull out. This will release the body of the actuator, but NOT the pin! Both of the bolts are half undone in this picture:

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_01.jpg]]

			When you've undone these bolts gently pull out the actuator until the piston is fully extended. It will stay in this position once pulled out.

			Now what you've got to do is knock out the 3mm roll pin that is securing the locker actuator. At this point you may pull out the actuator and find it comes away in your hands! This means that someone's taken it off before and not known about the roll pin, go buy another actuator from VW and join us later...... sorry.

			Here's the roll pin as you'll first get sight of it:

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_02.jpg]]

			This is what it looks like if the rubber shroud is missing (don't cut it if it's intact!):

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_03.jpg]]

			Again, be gentle with the roll pin - it should tap out easily.

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_04.jpg]]

			After losing one of them what I do is put a magnetic pick up tool on the pin as I tap it out, this makes it very tough to lose! Do it something like this:

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_05.jpg]]

			Now there are two 10mm headed M6 bolts that secure the bracket and.... HANG ON, come back, there's a circlip you've to remove,too. Here's the bracket with the bolts removed and circlip pliers in there getting ready to ping the circlip across the garage. The holes where the bolts were are arrowed:

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_06.jpg]]

			You may find that the bracket isn't too keen to leave (see alloy/steel comments above). Gently moving it around and worrying it to and fro will release it after a while. Now there's just a packing plate to pull off behind this - looks like this:

			[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_07.jpg]]

			Remove this and then drop the gearbox/diff. Both the front and rear lockers are pretty much the same. Annoyingly on the back locker you will probably need to remove the driveshaft to get the damned thing off, but that's one of those things that makes Syncros so special and makes us love them so..... or something.

			Refitting is the reverse of removal, as they say.

HarryMann: /* Links */

2010-01-12T02:32:38Z

Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:32, 12 January 2010
Line 74:		Line 74:

	==Links==		==Links==
	'''Diamond Hell:''' I had one of these on the floor today that needed to be stripped off and I had the camera handy, so you get some of this. Apologies about the state of it - blame Concorde, it's his.

	For the uninitiated the diff-locks on a Syncro are an essential part of the off-roading toolkit that could be specified on a Syncro - they provide massively improved traction off road and enable that wonderful wheel-waving that is so characteristic of a Syncro when it's 'on one' off road.
	The lockers are actuated by vacuum servos. These have a feed and return that are switched by the pull-out knobs on the dashboard. When one is actuated the actuator pushes in the pin, push the knob on the dash back in and the return pipe sucks to assist the spring to pull the locking pin back out. Dead simple and pretty damned effective..... if only they'd just used steel instead of steel and alloy on the locking pin...

	Anyhow, if at any point you need to service the lockers, or remove the gearbox or front diff it's safest to remove the actuator and brackets. This means you won't snap the vacuum feed pipes or bend the brackets etc.

	~~So, here's how to remove the little blighter:~~

	First off gently pull the vacuum pipes. Make a note of which one goes on the outside of the van and which is pushed onto the inside of it - this is very important, or you will find your locker is on when the dash knob should be setting it to off!

	~~There are two long 7mm headed bolts that you need to undo and pull out. This will release the body of the actuator, but NOT the pin! Both of the bolts are half undone in this picture:~~

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_01.jpg]]~~

	~~When you've undone these bolts gently pull out the actuator until the piston is fully extended. It will stay in this position once pulled out.~~

	Now what you've got to do is knock out the 3mm roll pin that is securing the locker actuator. At this point you may pull out the actuator and find it comes away in your hands! This means that someone's taken it off before and not known about the roll pin, go buy another actuator from VW and join us later...... sorry.

	~~Here's the roll pin as you'll first get sight of it:~~

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_02.jpg]]~~

	~~This is what it looks like if the rubber shroud is missing (don't cut it if it's intact!):~~

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_03.jpg]]~~

	~~Again, be gentle with the roll pin - it should tap out easily.~~

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_04.jpg]]~~

	~~After losing one of them what I do is put a magnetic pick up tool on the pin as I tap it out, this makes it very tough to lose! Do it something like this:~~

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_05.jpg]]~~

	Now there are two 10mm headed M6 bolts that secure the bracket and.... HANG ON, come back, there's a circlip you've to remove,too. Here's the bracket with the bolts removed and circlip pliers in there getting ready to ping the circlip across the garage. The holes where the bolts were are arrowed:

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_06.jpg]]~~

	You may find that the bracket isn't too keen to leave (see alloy/steel comments above). Gently moving it around and worrying it to and fro will release it after a while. Now there's just a packing plate to pull off behind this - looks like this:

	~~[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_07.jpg]]~~

	Remove this and then drop the gearbox/diff. Both the front and rear lockers are pretty much the same. Annoyingly on the back locker you will probably need to remove the driveshaft to get the damned thing off, but that's one of those things that makes Syncros so special and makes us love them so..... or something.

	~~Refitting is the reverse of removal, as they say.~~

	==Other==		==Other==

HarryMann: /* Links */

2010-01-12T02:28:53Z

Links

@@ Line 87: / Line 87: @@
 There are two long 7mm headed bolts that you need to undo and pull out. This will release the body of the actuator, but NOT the pin! Both of the bolts are half undone in this picture:
-[[File:LockActuator_01.jpg]]
+[[File:DiffLock_Actuator_01.jpg]]
 ==Other==