https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?action=history&feed=atom&title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacementSyncro Speedo diff drive gear replacement - Revision history2026-05-24T18:15:06ZRevision history for this page on the wikiMediaWiki 1.44.2https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17561&oldid=prevHarryMann at 12:39, 3 November 20252025-11-03T12:39:18Z<p></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 12:39, 3 November 2025</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">5mm_driftv2</del>.jpeg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">5mm_drift</ins>.jpeg]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> </div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[File:IMG 2950.jpeg]]</del></div></td><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-added"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17558&oldid=prevHarryMann at 10:44, 3 November 20252025-11-03T10:44:51Z<p></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 10:44, 3 November 2025</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_driftv2.jpeg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_driftv2.jpeg]]</div></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17557&oldid=prevHarryMann at 10:41, 3 November 20252025-11-03T10:41:38Z<p></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 10:41, 3 November 2025</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l11">Line 11:</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">5mm_drift</del>.jpeg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">5mm_driftv2</ins>.jpeg]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17555&oldid=prevHarryMann at 10:35, 3 November 20252025-11-03T10:35:46Z<p></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.jpeg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.jpeg]]</div></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17554&oldid=prevHarryMann at 10:35, 3 November 20252025-11-03T10:35:03Z<p></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 10:35, 3 November 2025</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.jpeg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.jpeg]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;"></ins></div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[File: FullSizeRender.jpeg]]</ins></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17549&oldid=prevHarryMann at 09:58, 3 November 20252025-11-03T09:58:10Z<p></p>
<table style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122;" data-mw="interface">
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 09:58, 3 November 2025</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l11">Line 11:</td>
<td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 11:</td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">jpg</del>]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:5mm_drift.<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">jpeg</ins>]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=17546&oldid=prevHarryMann: Image not showing2025-11-03T09:44:03Z<p>Image not showing</p>
<table style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122;" data-mw="interface">
<col class="diff-marker" />
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<tr class="diff-title" lang="en">
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 09:44, 3 November 2025</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l11">Line 11:</td>
<td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 11:</td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There's two problems drifting the pin out. Access - to get a few good strong blows to get it moving; a drift 12~13" long allows a decent swing and strike. My parallel drift set had a 4.8mm drift that just didn't seem beefy enough to get it moving, and from what Ray says below, don't try anything much smaller than this else you could be swaging the hollow roll-pin out rather than drifting it out.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Image</del>:5mm_drift.jpg]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">File</ins>:5mm_drift.jpg]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I found 15 minutes on a bench grinder was time well spent, whittling a suitably sized tapered punch down to just under 5mm over the first inch and being as careful as possible to keep it nicely round and concentric. Steel punches and drifts are often made from hex bar, so to get some extra length (bringing the striking face well aft of the diff support cradle), I had just to grind a shade off two opposite angles and then a bit of masking tape to pad it nicely in a 1/2 drive extension gave a tool that transferred the blow well enough to shift the pin on the second strike of a club-hammer. Must be held as near to dead-in-line as possible - some hoses neeed forcing back out of the way.</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=8394&oldid=prevHarryMann at 13:08, 18 October 20092009-10-18T13:08:22Z<p></p>
<table style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122;" data-mw="interface">
<col class="diff-marker" />
<col class="diff-content" />
<col class="diff-marker" />
<col class="diff-content" />
<tr class="diff-title" lang="en">
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 13:08, 18 October 2009</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l3">Line 3:</td>
<td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 3:</td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible (a hydraulic split-ring spanner might be ideal <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[General Pipe spanners</del>]]) but I'm not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible ( <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[General Pipe spanners|</ins>a hydraulic split-ring spanner might be ideal]]) but I'm not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=8393&oldid=prevHarryMann at 13:07, 18 October 20092009-10-18T13:07:22Z<p></p>
<table style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122;" data-mw="interface">
<col class="diff-marker" />
<col class="diff-content" />
<col class="diff-marker" />
<col class="diff-content" />
<tr class="diff-title" lang="en">
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 13:07, 18 October 2009</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l3">Line 3:</td>
<td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 3:</td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible (a hydraulic split-ring spanner might be ideal [General Pipe spanners]) but I'm not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible (a hydraulic split-ring spanner might be ideal <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[</ins>[General Pipe spanners<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">]</ins>]) but I'm not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMannhttps://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Syncro_Speedo_diff_drive_gear_replacement&diff=8392&oldid=prevHarryMann at 13:06, 18 October 20092009-10-18T13:06:47Z<p></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 13:06, 18 October 2009</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l3">Line 3:</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I've known the speedo head to start clicking and the needle to jump around before packing in completely, but not the cable to break.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> ''But by far the most common cause seems to be the plastic drive gear within the front-diff, stripping a couple of teeth'' </div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible (a <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">hydralic </del>split-ring spanner might be ideal<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, </del>not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>- easy to check... if you can get the large alloy nut undone that locates the cable into the diff. Don't crush this (its ally) unless you have a new cable anyway, so use plenty of brushing and plussing, and as thick a spanner as possible (a <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">hydraulic </ins>split-ring spanner might be ideal <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[General Pipe spanners]) but I'm </ins>not sure of the size. As the front wheels won't turn together with propshaft on, then simply ensure top-end at speedo is NOT spinning when underway + PLUS + twiddling that end rotates the cable at the diff-end - bingo, say YES to both these and it's got to be the diff-drive thats broken.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The nylon gear inside the diff can be changed without removing or dis-assembling the diff. The plastic gear now only comes from VW as a complete assembly with the shaft, bush and bearings - ready to insert. A 5mm roll-pin, along the top of the cable attachment boss, aligned fore-aft, secures the gear/shaft/bush assembly into the diff housing. Remove roll-pin; remove old gear assembly (noting that couple of teeth at least are damaged, if not think hard!); replace gear assembly (in exact alignment for pin; replace roll-pin; replace cable (lube inner while have chance); connect back up at speedo, test drive!</div></td></tr>
</table>HarryMann