Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings - Revision history

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-04T23:27:08Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:27, 4 January 2014
Line 86:		Line 86:


	[[File:Hub_replacement_1_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]] drive shaft assembled attached to the bearing housing		[[File:Hub_replacement_1_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]] drive shaft with both CV's assembled attached to the bearing housing being re-inserted into the trailing arm...but for pyschonauts description read on...

	'''psychonaut'''		'''psychonaut'''

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-04T23:25:03Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:25, 4 January 2014
Line 87:		Line 87:

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]] drive shaft assembled attached to the bearing housing		[[File:Hub_replacement_1_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]] drive shaft assembled attached to the bearing housing

			'''psychonaut'''

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-04T23:24:30Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:24, 4 January 2014
Line 84:		Line 84:

	Hacksawbob Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van. Psychonaut removes the CV joint outer before undoing the castle nut. There is no need to do it this way and put yourself through the hassle of getting to those CV bolts in the trailing arm. You can undo the inner CV joint and the whole drive shaft will come out through the trailing arm once the bearing housing is undone. This makes getting the bolts off much easier with better access. Also see Jed the spreads video [http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/] Jed doesn't remove the brake lines from the back plate and removes the unit in one piece. Depending how old your brake lines are may determine whether you can get away with doing it this way. He was able to knock the axle in to give clearance enough to slip the back plate off. My axle was not for moving when I did this, but it does give you better access to the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing.		Hacksawbob Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van. Psychonaut removes the CV joint outer before undoing the castle nut. There is no need to do it this way and put yourself through the hassle of getting to those CV bolts in the trailing arm. You can undo the inner CV joint and the whole drive shaft will come out through the trailing arm once the bearing housing is undone. This makes getting the bolts off much easier with better access. Also see Jed the spreads video [http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/] Jed doesn't remove the brake lines from the back plate and removes the unit in one piece. Depending how old your brake lines are may determine whether you can get away with doing it this way. He was able to knock the axle in to give clearance enough to slip the back plate off. My axle was not for moving when I did this, but it does give you better access to the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing.


			[[File:Hub_replacement_1_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]] drive shaft assembled attached to the bearing housing

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-04T22:49:24Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:49, 4 January 2014
Line 83:		Line 83:
	== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==		== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==

	Hacksawbob Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van. Psychonaut removes the CV joint outer before undoing the castle nut. There is no need to do it this way and put yourself through the hassle of getting to those CV bolts in the trailing arm. You can undo the inner CV joint and the whole drive shaft will come out through the trailing arm once the bearing housing is undone. This makes getting the bolts off much easier with better access. Also see Jed the spreads video [http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/]		Hacksawbob Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van. Psychonaut removes the CV joint outer before undoing the castle nut. There is no need to do it this way and put yourself through the hassle of getting to those CV bolts in the trailing arm. You can undo the inner CV joint and the whole drive shaft will come out through the trailing arm once the bearing housing is undone. This makes getting the bolts off much easier with better access. Also see Jed the spreads video [http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/] Jed doesn't remove the brake lines from the back plate and removes the unit in one piece. Depending how old your brake lines are may determine whether you can get away with doing it this way. He was able to knock the axle in to give clearance enough to slip the back plate off. My axle was not for moving when I did this, but it does give you better access to the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-04T22:43:14Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:43, 4 January 2014
Line 83:		Line 83:
	== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==		== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==

	Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van.		Hacksawbob Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van. Psychonaut removes the CV joint outer before undoing the castle nut. There is no need to do it this way and put yourself through the hassle of getting to those CV bolts in the trailing arm. You can undo the inner CV joint and the whole drive shaft will come out through the trailing arm once the bearing housing is undone. This makes getting the bolts off much easier with better access. Also see Jed the spreads video [http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/]

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-03T11:03:48Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:03, 3 January 2014
Line 82:		Line 82:

	== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==		== psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==

			Note: It might be an idea to loosen off the castle nut and wheel nuts before raising the van.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-03T11:02:39Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:02, 3 January 2014
Line 116:		Line 116:
	And the circlip underneath it		And the circlip underneath it

	[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Driving in the outer bearing with a bearing placer: - Drive out the old bearings with a drift, available for no more than a couple of quid at your local tool specialist. Don't use a screwdriver or anything else big and hard!! An undersized bearing placer would also work. I used a combination of the drift and a small placer.

	~~[[File:Hub_replacement_14~~.~~jpg\|100px\|caption]]~~		When putting in the new bearing parts, follow the Haynes, and pack everything in as much grease as you can. I already had some wheel bearing grease for the collection of motorcycles I have, but Halfords do pots of temperature-tolerant grease especially for wheelbearings for just a few quid. The bearings I bought from Brickwerks had a sachet of grease supplied, but I'd buy a pot anyway. You just know that sachet will end up in the (a) dog, (b) mug of tea, or (c) the baby.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_15.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			[[File:Hub_replacement_14.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Popping in the outer seal. As you can see, I used a block of wood rather than a placer for this, and tapped GENTLY and squarely to ensure it went in evenly

			[[File:Hub_replacement_15.jpg\|100px\|caption]]The finished job, before putting everything back on the van: -

	== Tools/Techniques==		== Tools/Techniques==

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-03T10:59:14Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:59, 3 January 2014
Line 93:		Line 93:

	[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			When you've got the driveshaft off, stick a plastic bag over each end to save any muck or grime getting on the joints, or any of the grease coming off them and all over the family cat or the baby, and pop it somewhere safe for the duration of the job.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_5.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_5.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			Next job is to remove the split pin, and get the castle nut off. It's a 46mm socket - I had to buy one especially, just over £20 from a local tool specialist. Ouch. Once the split pin is out, you'll almost certainly need to put the wheel back on, drop the van back to the ground, and then loosen the castle nut.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_6.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_6.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			With the van back in the air, and the nut off, it's time to remove the drum. It'll be full of brake dust so be as gentle as you can be. Remove the two retaining bolts first, then simply pull the drum off. Mine needed a few persuasive taps around the edge with a hammer to remove it.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_7.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_7.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Undo the brake line at the rear. I clamped the rubber part of the brake pipe to minimise fluid loss before doing this. You will still need to bleed the system afterwards though.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_8.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_8.jpg\|100px\|caption]]The wheel mounting plate should now pull off, although you may need to offer some "gentle persuasion". Once it's off, you'll have all the gubbins inside the brake drum on view. I'd advise taking a photo or two at this point if you're not familiar with how everything goes together, so that you can put it all back together again properly when you've finished :) This is mine, but after I'd started taking springs and retaining clips out. Photograph yours before you start.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_9.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_9.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

	[[File:Hub_replacement_10.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_10.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Once the bearing housing is off, I recommend following the instructions in the Haynes manual. I did, they're very clear and accurate, and so long as you follow them exactly, you wont go wrong. I wont reproduce the process here, but a couple of photos may help :)

			Lifting out the oil seal at the inner end of the bearing: -

	[[File:Hub_replacement_11.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_11.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

	[[File:Hub_replacement_12.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_12.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			And the circlip underneath it

	[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-03T10:53:03Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:53, 3 January 2014
Line 87:		Line 87:

	[[File:Hub_replacement_2.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_2.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			I used a ratchet and hex key as all mine were hex, but sometimes you'll find that some of the bolts are star-shaped - I have a set of star sockets for the Triumph so if I'd have come across any it wouldn't have been a problem.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_3.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_3.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			Next is the end of the drive shaft inside the bearing housing at the wheel end. This is renowned for being a bit tricky. I used an extension bar on the ratchet, and tied up the free end of the drive shaft with string out of the way so that I could get to all the bolts. They all came off bar one,, which was starting to round off as I tried to get it off. In the end I hammered a 10mm (If I remember correctly) onto it with the extension bar, which was a tight enough fit that when I put the ratchet on it, it started to turn. At this point, I order a set of bolts from the Bay of Fleas to replace some of the dodgier looking ones I'd taken off!Next is the end of the drive shaft inside the bearing housing at the wheel end. This is renowned for being a bit tricky. I used an extension bar on the ratchet, and tied up the free end of the drive shaft with string out of the way so that I could get to all the bolts. They all came off bar one,, which was starting to round off as I tried to get it off. In the end I hammered a 10mm (If I remember correctly) onto it with the extension bar, which was a tight enough fit that when I put the ratchet on it, it started to turn. At this point, I order a set of bolts from the Bay of Fleas to replace some of the dodgier looking ones I'd taken off!

	[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

Hacksawbob: /* psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures */

2014-01-03T10:51:57Z

psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures

@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 == psychonauts rear hub replacement in pictures ==
-[[File:Hub_replacement_11.jpg|link=Main Page|caption]]
+[[File:Hub_replacement_1.jpg|100px|caption]]
-The first thing to do is get your van's arshe up in the air, crawl underneath her and get the drive shaft off, starting with the gearbox end: -
+The first thing to do is get your van's arshe up in the air, crawl underneath her and get the drive shaft off, starting with the gearbox end
 == Tools/Techniques==

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:59, 3 January 2014
Line 93:		Line 93:

	[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_4.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			When you've got the driveshaft off, stick a plastic bag over each end to save any muck or grime getting on the joints, or any of the grease coming off them and all over the family cat or the baby, and pop it somewhere safe for the duration of the job.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_5.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_5.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			Next job is to remove the split pin, and get the castle nut off. It's a 46mm socket - I had to buy one especially, just over £20 from a local tool specialist. Ouch. Once the split pin is out, you'll almost certainly need to put the wheel back on, drop the van back to the ground, and then loosen the castle nut.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_6.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_6.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			With the van back in the air, and the nut off, it's time to remove the drum. It'll be full of brake dust so be as gentle as you can be. Remove the two retaining bolts first, then simply pull the drum off. Mine needed a few persuasive taps around the edge with a hammer to remove it.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_7.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_7.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Undo the brake line at the rear. I clamped the rubber part of the brake pipe to minimise fluid loss before doing this. You will still need to bleed the system afterwards though.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_8.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_8.jpg\|100px\|caption]]The wheel mounting plate should now pull off, although you may need to offer some "gentle persuasion". Once it's off, you'll have all the gubbins inside the brake drum on view. I'd advise taking a photo or two at this point if you're not familiar with how everything goes together, so that you can put it all back together again properly when you've finished :) This is mine, but after I'd started taking springs and retaining clips out. Photograph yours before you start.

	[[File:Hub_replacement_9.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_9.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

	[[File:Hub_replacement_10.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_10.jpg\|100px\|caption]]Once the bearing housing is off, I recommend following the instructions in the Haynes manual. I did, they're very clear and accurate, and so long as you follow them exactly, you wont go wrong. I wont reproduce the process here, but a couple of photos may help :)

			Lifting out the oil seal at the inner end of the bearing: -

	[[File:Hub_replacement_11.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_11.jpg\|100px\|caption]]

	[[File:Hub_replacement_12.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_12.jpg\|100px\|caption]]
			And the circlip underneath it

	[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]		[[File:Hub_replacement_13.jpg\|100px\|caption]]