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	<title>Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut - Revision history</title>
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		<id>https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=Steering_and_Suspension_Seized_top_shock_nut&amp;diff=6455&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>HarryMann at 00:58, 23 June 2008</title>
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		<updated>2008-06-23T00:58:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt; &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;mrmuch:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Seized up top shock absorber nut - difficult access&lt;br /&gt;
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Before I get the blow torch out (last resort) has anyone any handy tips on undoing the top nut on the front shock absorber? &lt;br /&gt;
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I&amp;#039;ve WD40&amp;#039;d it and tapped it to try to break the rust seal, but still no joy. &lt;br /&gt;
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Those  6mm flats on the shaft are a bit of a let down  - you just can&amp;#039;t put any force on it, rounds off in no time. Mole grips seem to hold it ok but still the nut really is stuck can&amp;#039;t budge it. &lt;br /&gt;
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The blow torch is really a last resort as I don&amp;#039;t want to wreck/melt the top rubber. &lt;br /&gt;
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Any tips please?&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;trickdicky:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Not had to use it on the T25 yet, but when it comes to fiddly grinding and cutting I use my Dremmel with a cut off-wheel. They are pretty expensive but well worth the investment. Failing that the B&amp;amp;Q type places do Dremmal look-a-likes.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;HarryMann:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; No Dremel? - then just hacksaw it off - either a 10&amp;quot; or a Terry saw, there must be a way to get in there, get as high an angle as possible and V-notch if can&amp;#039;t cut down the side of thread in one go; then with a helper dollying it with a club hammer, peel it apart with screwdriver or chisel to split it right off if the hacksawing hasn&amp;#039;t loosened it enough in the first place - which if accurately done often will.&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;NB. Use quality blades, 24 or even 32 tpi, anything less is for thick soft metal like ally. A good blade will go through almost any nut like butter! Don&amp;#039;t rush it, one accurate cut is better than making a dog&amp;#039;s dinner of it to save 20 seconds.&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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Alternatively, dolly it well with a club behind, and use this technique to shock it loose.. [[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;mrmuch:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Cheers guys, spotted in the machine mart catalogue a nut splitting tool for about 8 bucks &lt;br /&gt;
I&amp;#039;m gonna buy one to add to the tool collection. Even if i don&amp;#039;t use it, i&amp;#039;m sure it&amp;#039;ll come in handy one day, but it does seem to be the tool for the job! &lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;HarryMann:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Yes, that should do it! Or a good blade in a padsaw, good luck!&lt;br /&gt;
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&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;mrmuch:&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; Job done, Used Harryman&amp;#039;s hacksaw method in the end, easy job with plenty of space to get a full sized hacksaw in, I&amp;#039;d even say its quicker to just cut the nut off than to undo the dam thing! Cheers&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>HarryMann</name></author>
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