Petrol engines oil change - Revision history

CovKid: /* Watercooleds */

2015-04-13T00:29:24Z

Watercooleds

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:29, 13 April 2015
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	'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine for watercooled petrol engines. However, a definitive explanation of oil types and the best one for each type of VW engine including aircooled and diesel can be found here: [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]		'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine for watercooled petrol engines. However, a definitive explanation of oil types and the best one for each type of VW engine including aircooled and diesel can be found here: [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]

	Important to note here that the 15w40 viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and ~~will~~ result in noisy hydraulic tappets.		Important to note here that the 15w40 viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are generally too thin and may result in noisy hydraulic tappets due to 'hydraulic tappet drain'(typically you will hear a very load 'clattering' noise on start up that just won't go away until the vehicle/engine has been driven and up to temperature...could take as long as 20 minutes hard driving to disappear.

	'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick		'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick

CovKid: /* Watercooleds */

2012-03-21T07:34:40Z

Watercooleds

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:34, 21 March 2012
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	==Watercooleds==		==Watercooleds==

	'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine. A definitive explanation of oil types and the best one for ~~your~~ engine can be found here: [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]		'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine for watercooled petrol engines. However, a definitive explanation of oil types and the best one for each type of VW engine including aircooled and diesel can be found here: [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]
	15w40 viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and will result in noisy hydraulic tappets.
			Important to note here that the 15w40 viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and will result in noisy hydraulic tappets.

	'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick		'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick

CovKid: /* Watercooleds */

2012-03-21T07:30:35Z

Watercooleds

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:30, 21 March 2012
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	==Watercooleds==		==Watercooleds==

	'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine.		'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine. A definitive explanation of oil types and the best one for your engine can be found here: [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]
	~~This particular~~ viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and will result in noisy hydraulic tappets.		15w40 viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and will result in noisy hydraulic tappets.

	'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick		'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick
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	'''Hacksawbob'''		'''Hacksawbob'''

	Oil changes at 3000 miles are the nicest thing you can do for your engine. It is something that the most novice mechanic can do with some basic tools. ~~More on oil types and recommendations here [[All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Oils_recommended]]~~		Oil changes at 3000 miles are the nicest thing you can do for your engine. It is something that the most novice mechanic can do with some basic tools.

	'''You will need'''		'''You will need'''

CovKid: /* Oils */

2012-02-13T01:24:27Z

Oils

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:24, 13 February 2012
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	==Oils==		==Oils==

	Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. we have left this picture up for reference but we understand that both Quantum Blue and Red are no longer available. Look for branded MINERAL 15W40 oils for petrol engines. Diesel specific 15W40 or 10W40 for Diesel engines even if the label says ~~they~~ can be used in both.		Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. we have left this picture up for reference but we understand that both Quantum Blue and Red are no longer available. Look for branded MINERAL 15W40 oils for petrol engines. Diesel specific 15W40 or 10W40 for Diesel engines NOT a normal petrol engine oil even if the label says it can be used in both.

	[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]		[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Oils */

2012-02-13T01:22:39Z

Oils

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:22, 13 February 2012
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	==Oils==		==Oils==

	Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. we have left this picture up for reference but we understand that both Quantum Blue and Red are no longer available. Look for branded MINERAL 15W40 oils for petrol engines. ~~The same for~~ Diesel ~~engines (although you can also use~~ 10W40 ~~in these) However we would recommend oils that are primarily~~ for a Diesel engines even if the label says they can be used in both.		Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. we have left this picture up for reference but we understand that both Quantum Blue and Red are no longer available. Look for branded MINERAL 15W40 oils for petrol engines. Diesel specific 15W40 or 10W40 for Diesel engines even if the label says they can be used in both.

	[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]		[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Oils */

2012-02-13T01:20:13Z

Oils

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:20, 13 February 2012
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	==Oils==		==Oils==

	Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. ~~GSF~~ used ~~to carry most of the Quantum oil range, as well as VW outlets~~		Quantum is the brand name for VW approved oils. we have left this picture up for reference but we understand that both Quantum Blue and Red are no longer available. Look for branded MINERAL 15W40 oils for petrol engines. The same for Diesel engines (although you can also use 10W40 in these) However we would recommend oils that are primarily for a Diesel engines even if the label says they can be used in both.

	[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]		[[File:QuantumOils_All.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Watercooleds */

2012-02-13T01:10:33Z

Watercooleds

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:10, 13 February 2012
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	==Watercooleds==		==Watercooleds==

	'''Recomended brands''' VW's Quantum ~~15-40~~ is ~~the correct spec~~		'''Recomended brands''' Unfortunately VW no longer sell their Blue Quantum oil which was ideal but any branded MINERAL 15W40 oil (SF grade or later) will be absolutely fine.
			This particular viscosity is important as thinner oils (10W40 for instance) are too thin and will result in noisy hydraulic tappets.

	'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick		'''Quantity''' Petrol engines take 4.5 Litres to get half way up the dipstick
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	Oil filter, some change this every other change so every 6000 miles use a Mann filter they are the same for 2.1 and 1.9 Litre petrol engines		Oil filter, some change this every other change so every 6000 miles use a Mann filter they are the same for 2.1 and 1.9 Litre petrol engines

	~~You may also need to replace~~ the copper washer ~~seal that goes under your sump-plug~~, ~~you could leave~~ it ~~on for a few oil changes, if you've not done it before then best~~ but one ~~at GSF too~~.		Always change the sump bung copper washer, it is designed to crush and seal but only the one time.

	A receptacle for the old oil to drain into. It should hold at least 5 Litres, suitable lie down oil catchers are available at Halfords etc		A receptacle for the old oil to drain into. It should hold at least 5 Litres, suitable lie down oil catchers are available at Halfords etc
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	[[Image:Petrol-engines-oil-change1.JPG]]		[[Image:Petrol-engines-oil-change1.JPG]]
	[[Image:Petrol-engines-oil-change3.JPG]]		[[Image:Petrol-engines-oil-change3.JPG]]

			It is always best to change the oil whilst warm (not red hot obviously)..it drains quicker and more thoroughly.

	Allow oil to drain and remove oil filter with oil filter wrench		Allow oil to drain and remove oil filter with oil filter wrench

Hacksawbob: /* Hints & Tips */

2011-04-26T14:25:00Z

Hints & Tips

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:25, 26 April 2011
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	It is best to part fill the filter prior to refilling, but if not, take the king lead off and spin the engine to fill the filter before starting.		It is best to part fill the filter prior to refilling, but if not, take the king lead off (centre lead on distributor) and spin the engine to fill the filter before starting.

	It takes 1 litre of oil to move the oil from the lower mark on the dip stick to the upper mark, and most 1.9's will burn off the top quarter of the oil on the dipstick within 200 miles, there is no point in topping it up above 3/4 unless you like wasting money on oil.		It takes 1 litre of oil to move the oil from the lower mark on the dip stick to the upper mark, and most 1.9's will burn off the top quarter of the oil on the dipstick within 200 miles, there is no point in topping it up above 3/4 unless you like wasting money on oil.

HarryMann: /* Aircooleds */

2010-09-16T00:01:56Z

Aircooleds

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:01, 16 September 2010
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	I would go for 20/50 mineral oil, not synthetic as this doesn't have such good heat transfer which is needed with aircooled engines when the oil passes through the oil cooler.		I would go for 20/50 mineral oil, not synthetic as this doesn't have such good heat transfer which is needed with aircooled engines when the oil passes through the oil cooler.

	''HM:''' I'm not convinced that statment is entirely factual.. ~~synthetic~~ oils are in fact engineered to be able to transfer heat well, and equiv. oil sump temps can be measurably lower. However, there may be other reasons why they are not an obvious upgrade for VW aircooleds..		'''HM:''' I'm not convinced that last statment is entirely factual.. Synthetic oils are in fact engineered to be able to transfer heat well, and equiv. oil sump temps can be measurably lower. However, there may be other reasons why they are not an obvious upgrade for VW aircooleds.

	==Hints & Tips==		==Hints & Tips==

HarryMann: /* Oils */

2010-09-16T00:00:30Z

Oils

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:00, 16 September 2010
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	On Synthetic Oils		On Synthetic Oils

	~~Gnereally~~, synthetic ~~oil~~ retain their viscosity (far less evaporation ) and in fact all their properties, with time, far better than petroleum/~~minreal~~ base stock oils. They are also 'more pure' at a molecular level and used in lower viscosities, ~~garenering~~ better flow, particularly in ~~engiens~~ with tighter tolerances e.g. small high speed engines.		Generally, synthetic oils retain their viscosity (far less evaporation ) and in fact all their properties, with time, far better than petroleum/mineral base stock oils. They are also 'more pure' at a molecular level and used in lower viscosities, giving better flow, particularly in engines with tighter tolerances e.g. small high speed engines.

	(from an Amsoil advert)		(from an Amsoil advert)

	It is also important to note that, ''contrary to what many take for granted'', higher viscosity in and of itself does not translate into better engine protection. Extensive testing has shown the opposite to be in fact true. As long as a lower-viscosity oil is formulated to resist evaporation and provide high film strength, this lighter oil will actually deliver more complete protection to the engine parts, since its more rapid circulation delivers both better lubrication per se, and far better cooling characteristics...a critical advantage, given that oil flow furnishes up to 30% of an engines cooling requirements. Prior to the introduction of synthetics~~, however,~~ the problem of evaporation, (and the resultant thickening of the remaining oil), was addressed primarily by increasing viscosity. In short, don't be concerned with the relatively lower viscosity ratings of some synthetics. Syn lubes are a whole new ball game.		It is also important to note that, ''contrary to what many take for granted'', higher viscosity in and of itself does not translate into better engine protection. Extensive testing has shown the opposite to be in fact true. As long as a lower-viscosity oil is formulated to resist evaporation and provide high film strength, this lighter oil will actually deliver more complete protection to the engine parts, since its more rapid circulation delivers both better lubrication per se, and far better cooling characteristics... a critical advantage, given that oil flow furnishes up to 30% of an engines cooling requirements. Prior to the introduction of synthetics the problem of evaporation (and the resultant thickening of the remaining oil) was addressed primarily by increasing viscosity. In short, don't be concerned with the relatively lower viscosity ratings of some synthetics. Syn lubes are a whole new ball game.

	The remarkable ability of synthetic oils to reduce internal operating temperatures is far too important to ignore, since high operating temperatures contribute directly to premature failure of mechanical components and gaskets and seals. Coolant, (i.e. water/antifreeze), cools only the upper regions of an engine. The task of cooling the crankshaft, main and connecting rod bearings, the timing gear and chain, the camshaft and its bearings must be borne entirely by the oil. There are three identifiable reasons why synthetics do a better job of cooling an engine: (1) Because of both the oil's lubricity, (slipperiness), and its stable viscosity, less friction - and thus less heat - is generated in the first place; (2) ''The molecular structure of the oil itself is designed to more efficiently transfer heat, even compared against the thermal conductivity properties, (ability to absorb and dissipate heat), of an identical viscosity petroleum oil; and,'' (3) As mentioned in the preceeding paragraph, the more rapid oil flow of these lower-viscosity synthetics contributes significantly to the efficient transfer and dissipation of heat. Because of all these factors, oil temperature decreases of from 20 deg. F to 50 deg. F are quite common with the use of synthetic oil. One might even say that the heat-reduction properties of synthetics are synergistic...by helping to reduce its own temperature, the synthetic oil is simultaneously enhancing the lubricant's overall performance characteristics."		The remarkable ability of synthetic oils to reduce internal operating temperatures is far too important to ignore, since high operating temperatures contribute directly to premature failure of mechanical components and gaskets and seals. Coolant, (i.e. water/antifreeze), cools only the upper regions of an engine. The task of cooling the crankshaft, main and connecting rod bearings, the timing gear and chain, the camshaft and its bearings must be borne entirely by the oil. There are three identifiable reasons why synthetics do a better job of cooling an engine: (1) Because of both the oil's lubricity, (slipperiness), and its stable viscosity, less friction - and thus less heat - is generated in the first place; (2) ''The molecular structure of the oil itself is designed to more efficiently transfer heat, even compared against the thermal conductivity properties, (ability to absorb and dissipate heat), of an identical viscosity petroleum oil; and,'' (3) As mentioned in the preceeding paragraph, the more rapid oil flow of these lower-viscosity synthetics contributes significantly to the efficient transfer and dissipation of heat. Because of all these factors, oil temperature decreases of from 20 deg. F to 50 deg. F are quite common with the use of synthetic oil. One might even say that the heat-reduction properties of synthetics are synergistic...by helping to reduce its own temperature, the synthetic oil is simultaneously enhancing the lubricant's overall performance characteristics."