Petrol engines 1.9 Timing - Revision history

CovKid: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2014-09-04T17:42:53Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:42, 4 September 2014
Line 49:		Line 49:

	[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| About 009 Distributors]]		[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| About 009 Distributors]]


			=== Setting up timing on a 1.9DG ===

			Simple explantation, courtesy of Itchyfeet:

			Turn the engine so you can see the timing marks on the pulley where the aux belt is, there should be a U shape for TDC on one edge of pulley and a V shape about 7mm to the right on the other edge of the pulley, this is the 5 degrees before top dead centre mark (BTDC) mark both with tippex

			Then connect your strobe light to plug lead no1 or clamp it on if it's the clamp on type, No1 cylinder is front of van right as you look from the rear.

			connect the 12v power to strobe and ground to body, easiest place for 12V is the alternator bolt if it is a late van, if early van may need to get a connection to the stud in the black box.

			get the leads away from the belt and pulley

			start the engine

			allow the choke to come off

			remove the vac pipe from dizzy, (revs will drop a little) and point the timing gun at the pulley, you should see the marks, the V should align with centre of engine, that's the edge of the casting above.

			if you have a rev counter you should set the idle stop to 900rpm after removing the vac pipe but if not don't worry

			if it's out then you need to turn off engine, loosen pinch bolt on dizzy, restart engine and repeat, rotate dizzy until the V mark aligns with centre of engine, use rubber gloves, turn off engine and tighten without moving dizzy.

			restart and check

			refit vac pipe

			Some strobe guns have an adjustable advance, if it has one then make sure it's set to zero or read up how to use it.

HarryMann at 10:02, 19 August 2011

2011-08-19T10:02:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:02, 19 August 2011
Line 6:		Line 6:

	'''Before getting all this checked/reset''' - you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.		'''Before getting all this checked/reset''' - you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.

			NB. Always ensure the distributor and its adjacent housing have clear and accurate marks of their physical position, before loosening or swinging the dizzy. This can be accomplished using a sharp centre punch to put a couple of spot marks directly next to each other, allowing an accurate return of the original static positioning and to see physically at a glance how much any changes have moved it.

	=== Here goes: timing a DH ===		=== Here goes: timing a DH ===

CovKid: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2010-09-30T20:59:32Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:59, 30 September 2010
Line 28:		Line 28:
	and not increase thereafter.		and not increase thereafter.


	~~[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| 009 Distributors]]~~

	So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm		So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm
Line 48:		Line 46:


	[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| 009 Distributors]]		[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| About 009 Distributors]]

CovKid: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2010-09-30T20:58:51Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 30 September 2010
Line 46:		Line 46:
	Vac Retard starts 100~220 mbar (7.5~16.5 cm Hg)		Vac Retard starts 100~220 mbar (7.5~16.5 cm Hg)
	Ends @ 260~360 mbar (19.5~27 cm Hg) with 9~11 degrees retard		Ends @ 260~360 mbar (19.5~27 cm Hg) with 9~11 degrees retard


			[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| 009 Distributors]]

CovKid: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2010-09-30T20:58:28Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 30 September 2010
Line 27:		Line 27:
	@ 3800 rpm should be 21~25 deg.		@ 3800 rpm should be 21~25 deg.
	and not increase thereafter.		and not increase thereafter.


			[[Petrol_engines_aircooled_Ignition_02#009_Distributor\| 009 Distributors]]

	So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm		So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm

HarryMann at 02:58, 15 November 2009

2009-11-15T02:58:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:58, 15 November 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
			'''Technique applies to DJ or DH'''

	[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves\| DG Vs DJ (comparative advance curves)]]		[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves\| DG Vs DJ (comparative advance curves)]]

HarryMann at 02:53, 15 November 2009

2009-11-15T02:53:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:53, 15 November 2009
Line 3:		Line 3:
	'''HarryMann:''' 1.9 DH Ignition timing (DG with Digijet fuel-injection)		'''HarryMann:''' 1.9 DH Ignition timing (DG with Digijet fuel-injection)

	~~===~~ Before getting all this checked/reset ~~===~~ you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.		'''Before getting all this checked/reset''' - you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.

	=== Here goes: timing a DH ===		=== Here goes: timing a DH ===

HarryMann: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2009-11-15T02:52:29Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:52, 15 November 2009
Line 5:		Line 5:
	=== Before getting all this checked/reset === you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.		=== Before getting all this checked/reset === you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.

	== Here goes: timing a DH ==		=== Here goes: timing a DH ===

	Static timing 5 degrees ATDC +/- 1 degree (also at 900 rpm with vac hoses disconnected and ISU plugs disconnected from unit and plugged into each other)		Static timing 5 degrees ATDC +/- 1 degree (also at 900 rpm with vac hoses disconnected and ISU plugs disconnected from unit and plugged into each other)

HarryMann: /* If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly */

2009-11-15T02:51:54Z

If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:51, 15 November 2009
Line 28:		Line 28:
	So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm		So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm

	== If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly ==		If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly

	= Vacuum advance/retard = You can't test this accurately without a manifold vacuum gauge, and again you need to be thorough and not confused about the process - have a clear understanding of what your are doing and why. But you can at least quickly pop the pipes back on the vacuum unit one at a time to see that the timing does move i.e. the vac unit appears to work and hasn't got a broken diaphragm, or isn't 'stuck'.		'''Vacuum advance/retard''' You can't test this accurately without a manifold vacuum gauge, and again you need to be thorough and not confused about the process - have a clear understanding of what your are doing and why. But you can at least quickly pop the pipes back on the vacuum unit one at a time to see that the timing does move i.e. the vac unit appears to work and hasn't got a broken diaphragm, or isn't 'stuck'.

	Here are the figures if you need to get a garage mechanic to check/set it for you..		Here are the figures if you need to get a garage mechanic to check/set it for you..

HarryMann: /* Here goes: timing a DH */

2009-11-15T02:51:14Z

Here goes: timing a DH

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:51, 15 November 2009
Line 26:		Line 26:
	and not increase thereafter.		and not increase thereafter.

	So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm		So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm

	== If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly ==		== If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly ==