General Screw/bolt punch - Revision history

HarryMann at 12:19, 19 September 2012

2012-09-19T12:19:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:19, 19 September 2012
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	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

	Here's another one, proprietary, perfect ~~fro~~ slitting down internal bushes for removal...		Here's another one, proprietary, perfect for slitting down internal bushes for removal... a bit sharp for most impact punching jobs though

	[[File:proto_chisel_quarter_01.jpg]]		[[File:proto_chisel_quarter_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 12:18, 19 September 2012

2012-09-19T12:18:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:18, 19 September 2012
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	A good example of its use would be the large countersunk set-screws that hold discs and drums on. On the T25, the Syncro has these as the disc/hub design is of that type where the discs just slot over the wheel studs, the set screw just securing it whilst the wheel is off. In this case the punch would be used on the only available face, initially coming in almost directly		A good example of its use would be the large countersunk set-screws that hold discs and drums on. On the T25, the Syncro has these as the disc/hub design is of that type where the discs just slot over the wheel studs, the set screw just securing it whilst the wheel is off. In this case the punch would be used on the only available face, initially coming in almost directly
	from the front, developing a ''nick'' in the screw face and then progressively angling the tool to develop some ~~undo~~ torque at every blow. Because it is also shocking the screw inwards as well as around, corrosion is broken and the screw loosens up, however rusted up on its countersunk face.		from the front, developing a ''nick'' in the screw face and then progressively angling the tool to develop some loosening-torque at every blow. Because it is also shocking the screw inwards as well as around, corrosion is broken and the screw loosens up, however rusted up on its countersunk face.

	If the tool is angled rotationally too ~~severely~~ too early, it will either slip or chisel off a chip~~. Start~~ again on another area~~, developing~~ your technique ~~to gain~~ a good foothold before angling around too much. Judgement is everything, start gently and build up to some strong blows. Generally, use a club hammer for ease of control, not a lightweight or claw hammer which requires swinging too much. The control is in holding the punch accurately, the hammer blow should be the easy bit.		If the tool is angled rotationally too much too early, it will either slip or jump off or actually chisel off a chip - not what is wanted but, if so, start again on another area and develop your technique. Gain a good foothold before angling around too much. Judgement is everything, start gently and build up to some strong blows. Generally, use a club hammer for ease of control, not a lightweight or claw hammer which requires swinging too much. The control is in holding the punch accurately, the hammer blow should be the easy bit.

	'''N.B.''' It is the bluff face of the punch combined with the technique that allows a chiselling action without tearing off strips or chips from the screw/nut/bolt head. Although many use a chisel for this style of loosening, they are usually too wide and too sharp. Look carefully how the tool has been shaped, one bluff and one sharper face, as well as a thinning down on width. When a large flat on a nut or bolt presents itself, it is tempting to use that to drive directly around, but it is not the same as driving inwards and around on the front face ~~(which~~ happens simultaneously), as the shock loosening ~~doesn't come~~ into play ~~in the same way~~.		'''N.B.''' It is the bluff face of the punch combined with the technique that allows a chiselling action without tearing off strips or chips from the screw/nut/bolt head. Although many use a chisel for this style of loosening, they are usually too wide and too sharp. Look carefully how the tool has been shaped, one bluff and one sharper face, as well as a thinning down on width. When a large flat on a nut or bolt presents itself, it is tempting to use that to drive directly around, but it is not the same as driving inwards and around on the front (outward) face. When the driving INWARDS + AROUND happens simultaneously, the shock loosening THEN comes into play much like an [[General Impact Screwdriver\|Impact Screwdriver]].

	''Always when trying to loosen nuts, bolts and screws, watch very carefully for the first signs, however slight, of some movement - sometimes a quick scratch/scribe across the adjacent surfaces helps to spot this. At that point you know you're winning and might then revert to the spanner/screwdriver.''		''Always when trying to loosen nuts, bolts and screws, watch very carefully for the first signs, however slight, of some movement - sometimes a quick scratch/scribe across the adjacent surfaces helps to spot this. At that point you know you're winning and might then revert to the spanner/screwdriver.''

HarryMann at 22:52, 6 June 2012

2012-06-06T22:52:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:52, 6 June 2012
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	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

	Here's another one, ~~proprietory~~, perfect fro slitting down internal bushes for removal...		Here's another one, proprietary, perfect fro slitting down internal bushes for removal...

	[[File:proto_chisel_quarter_01.jpg]]		[[File:proto_chisel_quarter_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 22:50, 6 June 2012

2012-06-06T22:50:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:50, 6 June 2012
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	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

			Here's another one, proprietory, perfect fro slitting down internal bushes for removal...

			[[File:proto_chisel_quarter_01.jpg]]


	== Typical use ==		== Typical use ==

HarryMann: /* == */

2009-11-09T20:59:12Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:59, 9 November 2009
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	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

	====		== Typical use ==

	This '''filler-plug''' could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. A few minutes with the bolt drift and club hammer; three stabs at it, moving around when material shears badly, angling it inwards as well as around loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new plug and job's a good'un!		This '''filler-plug''' could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. A few minutes with the bolt drift and club hammer; three stabs at it, moving around when material shears badly, angling it inwards as well as around loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new plug and job's a good'un!
	[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]		[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 20:58, 9 November 2009

2009-11-09T20:58:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 9 November 2009
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	''Always when trying to loosen nuts, bolts and screws, watch very carefully for the first signs, however slight, of some movement - sometimes a quick scratch/scribe across the adjacent surfaces helps to spot this. At that point you know you're winning and might then revert to the spanner/screwdriver.''		''Always when trying to loosen nuts, bolts and screws, watch very carefully for the first signs, however slight, of some movement - sometimes a quick scratch/scribe across the adjacent surfaces helps to spot this. At that point you know you're winning and might then revert to the spanner/screwdriver.''

	Whilst this method usually means sacrificing the screw/bolt itself, on larger fasteners it's possible to remove them without excessive damage. Large bolts/sump plugs etc can be initially shock-loosened and then undone conventionally, but this depends on the range of punch sizes available.		Whilst this method usually means sacrificing the screw/bolt itself, on larger fasteners it's possible to remove them without excessive damage. Large '''bolts/sump plugs''' etc can be initially shock-loosened and then undone conventionally, but this depends on the range of punch sizes available.

	The illustrated punch was made from a medium sized 6-8" punch from a fairly cheap Screwfix set, keep edge moving and cool frequently when grinding down - don't use really rubbish cheap punches or chisels!.		The illustrated punch was made from a medium sized 6-8" punch from a fairly cheap Screwfix set, keep edge moving and cool frequently when grinding down - don't use really rubbish cheap punches or chisels!.
Line 25:		Line 25:
	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

	==		====
	This filler-plug could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. A few minutes with the bolt drift and club hammer; three stabs at it, moving around when material shears badly, angling it inwards as well as around loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new plug and job's a good'un!		This '''filler-plug''' could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. A few minutes with the bolt drift and club hammer; three stabs at it, moving around when material shears badly, angling it inwards as well as around loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new plug and job's a good'un!
	[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]		[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 02:06, 15 February 2007

2007-02-15T02:06:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:06, 15 February 2007
Line 26:		Line 26:

	==		==
	This filler-plug could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. 2 minutes ~~with 3 takes geting the angle right,~~ with the bolt drift and club hammer, loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new ~~one~~ and job's a good'un!		This filler-plug could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. A few minutes with the bolt drift and club hammer; three stabs at it, moving around when material shears badly, angling it inwards as well as around loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new plug and job's a good'un!
	[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]		[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 02:03, 15 February 2007

2007-02-15T02:03:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:03, 15 February 2007
Line 1:		Line 1:
	'''HarryMann''' This is a rare special tool to find listed in catalogues, but can be made easily and be very handy.		'''HarryMann''' This is a rare special tool to find listed in catalogues, but can be made easily and be very handy.
			Nut or bolt punch or drift (some would say chisel, but that's not the idea!)

	One can however, be quite easily made from a suitable punch or chisel, using a bench grinder - as illustrated below.		One can however, be quite easily made from a suitable punch or chisel, using a bench grinder - as illustrated below.
Line 24:		Line 25:
	Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.		Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

			==
			This filler-plug could-not be removed in-situ, even with transaxle out the 17mm plug socket was tearing it apart. 2 minutes with 3 takes geting the angle right, with the bolt drift and club hammer, loosened it enough to remove with socket. £3 for a new one and job's a good'un!
	[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]		[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]

HarryMann at 01:58, 15 February 2007

2007-02-15T01:58:51Z

New page

'''HarryMann''' This is a rare special tool to find listed in catalogues, but can be made easily and be very handy.

One can however, be quite easily made from a suitable punch or chisel, using a bench grinder - as illustrated below.

Note the shorter bluff face, about 60~65 degrees to the axis
[[Image:IMG_5747(crop).JPG]]

Note the slight waisting down of the width, to gain access and accuracy
[[Image:IMG_5743(crop).JPG]]

A good example of its use would be the large countersunk set-screws that hold discs and drums on. On the T25, the Syncro has these as the disc/hub design is of that type where the discs just slot over the wheel studs, the set screw just securing it whilst the wheel is off. In this case the punch would be used on the only available face, initially coming in almost directly
from the front, developing a ''nick'' in the screw face and then progressively angling the tool to develop some undo torque at every blow. Because it is also shocking the screw inwards as well as around, corrosion is broken and the screw loosens up, however rusted up on its countersunk face.

If the tool is angled rotationally too severely too early, it will either slip or chisel off a chip. Start again on another area, developing your technique to gain a good foothold before angling around too much. Judgement is everything, start gently and build up to some strong blows. Generally, use a club hammer for ease of control, not a lightweight or claw hammer which requires swinging too much. The control is in holding the punch accurately, the hammer blow should be the easy bit.

'''N.B.''' It is the bluff face of the punch combined with the technique that allows a chiselling action without tearing off strips or chips from the screw/nut/bolt head. Although many use a chisel for this style of loosening, they are usually too wide and too sharp. Look carefully how the tool has been shaped, one bluff and one sharper face, as well as a thinning down on width. When a large flat on a nut or bolt presents itself, it is tempting to use that to drive directly around, but it is not the same as driving inwards and around on the front face (which happens simultaneously), as the shock loosening doesn't come into play in the same way.

''Always when trying to loosen nuts, bolts and screws, watch very carefully for the first signs, however slight, of some movement - sometimes a quick scratch/scribe across the adjacent surfaces helps to spot this. At that point you know you're winning and might then revert to the spanner/screwdriver.''

Whilst this method usually means sacrificing the screw/bolt itself, on larger fasteners it's possible to remove them without excessive damage. Large bolts/sump plugs etc can be initially shock-loosened and then undone conventionally, but this depends on the range of punch sizes available.

The illustrated punch was made from a medium sized 6-8" punch from a fairly cheap Screwfix set, keep edge moving and cool frequently when grinding down - don't use really rubbish cheap punches or chisels!.

Good luck if you make one, this is a powerful tool to have tucked away when things don't go according to plan, and used cleverly can sometimes do a ''lot'' less harm than screwdrivers, spanners and sockets on unyielding fastener heads.

[[Image:Filler_plug_removed_01.jpg]]