Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement - Revision history

CovKid: /* Symptoms of worn slave cylinder */

2015-09-15T06:07:04Z

Symptoms of worn slave cylinder

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:07, 15 September 2015
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	==Symptoms of worn slave cylinder==		==Symptoms of worn slave cylinder==

	Covkid: Despite changing most of the gearchange bushings some time ago and fitting a new clutch, I often had to work hard to get it in 1st or reverse. ~~Recently~~ I started losing fluid from clutch line - so much so I was having to bleed line every couple of days. By now I was clearly losing a lot of fluid at slave cylinder. Replaced slave ~~at weekend. Gears~~ change perfectly. Worth noting that even if your clutch functions, if its not disengaging properly (and not wholly obvious whether it is or not), it can have a major impact on smooth changes. The biggest indicator is probably the stiffness of the pedal. If its not uncomfortable to sit in traffic with clutch down, chances are the slave is worn out and it doesn't have to be leaking ~~either~~.		Covkid: Despite changing most of the gearchange bushings some time ago and fitting a new clutch, I often had to work hard to get it in 1st or reverse. More recently I also started losing fluid from clutch line - so much so I was having to bleed line every couple of days. By now I was clearly losing a lot of fluid at slave cylinder. Replaced slave, gears change perfectly. Worth noting that even if your clutch functions, if its not disengaging properly (and not wholly obvious whether it is or not), it can have a major impact on smooth changes. The biggest indicator is probably the stiffness of the pedal. If its not uncomfortable to sit in traffic with clutch down, chances are the slave is worn out and it doesn't have to be leaking to malfunction like this.

	==Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder==		==Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder==

CovKid: /* Symptoms of worm slave cylinder */

2015-09-15T06:05:27Z

Symptoms of worm slave cylinder

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:05, 15 September 2015
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	==Symptoms of ~~worm~~ slave cylinder==		==Symptoms of worn slave cylinder==

	Covkid: Despite changing most of the gearchange bushings some time ago and fitting a new clutch, I often had to work hard to get it in 1st or reverse. Recently I started losing fluid from clutch line - so much so I was having to bleed line every couple of days. By now I was clearly losing a lot of fluid at slave cylinder. Replaced slave at weekend. Gears change perfectly. Worth noting that even if your clutch functions, if its not disengaging properly (and not wholly obvious whether it is or not), it can have a major impact on smooth changes. The biggest indicator is probably the stiffness of the pedal. If its not uncomfortable to sit in traffic with clutch down, chances are the slave is worn out and it doesn't have to be leaking either.		Covkid: Despite changing most of the gearchange bushings some time ago and fitting a new clutch, I often had to work hard to get it in 1st or reverse. Recently I started losing fluid from clutch line - so much so I was having to bleed line every couple of days. By now I was clearly losing a lot of fluid at slave cylinder. Replaced slave at weekend. Gears change perfectly. Worth noting that even if your clutch functions, if its not disengaging properly (and not wholly obvious whether it is or not), it can have a major impact on smooth changes. The biggest indicator is probably the stiffness of the pedal. If its not uncomfortable to sit in traffic with clutch down, chances are the slave is worn out and it doesn't have to be leaking either.

CovKid: /* Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder */

2015-09-15T06:05:14Z

Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:05, 15 September 2015
Line 1:		Line 1:
			==Symptoms of worm slave cylinder==

			Covkid: Despite changing most of the gearchange bushings some time ago and fitting a new clutch, I often had to work hard to get it in 1st or reverse. Recently I started losing fluid from clutch line - so much so I was having to bleed line every couple of days. By now I was clearly losing a lot of fluid at slave cylinder. Replaced slave at weekend. Gears change perfectly. Worth noting that even if your clutch functions, if its not disengaging properly (and not wholly obvious whether it is or not), it can have a major impact on smooth changes. The biggest indicator is probably the stiffness of the pedal. If its not uncomfortable to sit in traffic with clutch down, chances are the slave is worn out and it doesn't have to be leaking either.

	==Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder==		==Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder==

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	19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!		19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!


	==Bleeding==		==Bleeding==

HarryMann at 10:53, 2 May 2009

2009-05-02T10:53:12Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:53, 2 May 2009
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	==Tools==		==Tools==
	*[[General Pipe spanners\|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]		*[[General Pipe spanners\|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]

			==Pictures==
			*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures\|Clutch - pictures]]

HarryMann: /* Tips */

2009-05-01T23:53:32Z

Tips

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:53, 1 May 2009
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	'''brickinit:''' Had a quick check on the tech forum to see what the problems would be to replace badly leaking slave cylinder and, sure enough, several gallons of WD40 were needed on the bolts and the union holding the plastic feed pipe was solid and screaming "I'll round off if you come near me"		'''brickinit:''' Had a quick check on the tech forum to see what the problems would be to replace badly leaking slave cylinder and, sure enough, several gallons of WD40 were needed on the bolts and the union holding the plastic feed pipe was solid and screaming "I'll round off if you come near me"

	I got the union off by unbolting the cylinder from the mounting bracket and feeding it (still attached to the pipe) into a position where I could tighten the union into the jaws of my small engineers vice which I'd unclamped from the bench in the garage and put on the ground under the bus		I got the union off by unbolting the cylinder from the mounting bracket and feeding it (still attached to the pipe) into a position where I could tighten the union into the jaws of my small '''engineers vice'' which I'd unclamped from the bench in the garage and put on the ground under the bus'

	I then wacked the cylinder several times with a large hammer in the direction to slacken it and it eventually came loose!		I then wacked the cylinder several times with a large hammer in the direction to slacken it and it eventually came loose!

HarryMann: /* Tools */

2009-05-01T23:52:43Z

Tools

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:52, 1 May 2009
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	==Tools==		==Tools==
			*[[General Pipe spanners\|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]
	[General - Pipe spanners]

HarryMann at 23:51, 1 May 2009

2009-05-01T23:51:50Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-  '''geordie skydiver:''' Step-by-step rplacing the clutch slave-cylinder
+==Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder==
 . Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!
@@ Line 40: / Line 42: @@
-Or:
+==Bleeding==
 [[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding brakes and clutches]]

HarryMann at 22:51, 8 July 2008

2008-07-08T22:51:25Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:51, 8 July 2008
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	19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!		19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!


			Or:

			[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches\|Bleeding brakes and clutches]]

HarryMann at 21:42, 4 April 2008

2008-04-04T21:42:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:42, 4 April 2008
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	'''geordie skydiver'''		'''geordie skydiver:''' Step-by-step rplacing the clutch slave-cylinder

	1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!		1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!

Hacksawbob at 19:30, 16 November 2007

2007-11-16T19:30:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:30, 16 November 2007
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	1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!		1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!

	2. Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. (13mm)		2. Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. (13mm)

	3. Unscrew the hydraulic pipeline into the cylinder. (Cap the pipe with a plastic bag if you are going to leave it for any time)		3. Unscrew the hydraulic pipeline into the cylinder. (Cap the pipe with a plastic bag if you are going to leave it for any time)

	4. Remove the slave cylinder from the bracket.		4. Remove the slave cylinder from the bracket.

	5. Place the new cylinder into the bracket. (after removing the blanking cap)		5. Place the new cylinder into the bracket. (after removing the blanking cap)

	6. Refit the two bolts; bolt in through the bottom, nut on top. The rear one is a bit of a fiddle. Tighten to two white knuckles…		6. Refit the two bolts; bolt in through the bottom, nut on top. The rear one is a bit of a fiddle. Tighten to two white knuckles…

	7. Refit the hydraulic pipe to its hole and tighten.		7. Refit the hydraulic pipe to its hole and tighten.

	8. Remove the instrument console cover to gain access to the hydraulic fluid reservoir.		8. Remove the instrument console cover to gain access to the hydraulic fluid reservoir.

	9. Remove the reservoir cap and top the hydraulic fluid right up to the brim. (Don’t worry its going to drop down soon)		9. Remove the reservoir cap and top the hydraulic fluid right up to the brim. (Don’t worry its going to drop down soon)

	10. With your helper sat in the driver’s seat, get them to pump the clutch pedal several times.		10. With your helper sat in the driver’s seat, get them to pump the clutch pedal several times.

	11. Get the helper to hold the pedal down while you turn the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, some air/fluid should come out, so have a cloth handy to mop up spills, and please try not to get any on your paintwork.		11. Get the helper to hold the pedal down while you turn the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, some air/fluid should come out, so have a cloth handy to mop up spills, and please try not to get any on your paintwork.

	12. Tighten up the nipple, have the helper release the clutch pedal, then push and hold it down again.		12. Tighten up the nipple, have the helper release the clutch pedal, then push and hold it down again.

	13. Repeat 11.		13. Repeat 11.

	14. Repeat 12.		14. Repeat 12.

	15. Continue doing this until you get clean fluid through the bleed nipple, and the clutch pedal has good pressure. (You may need to top up the fluid in the reservoir at some point, I didn’t)		15. Continue doing this until you get clean fluid through the bleed nipple, and the clutch pedal has good pressure. (You may need to top up the fluid in the reservoir at some point, I didn’t)

	16. Finally tighten the bleed nipple fully, replace the wheel and jack the vehicle down.		16. Finally tighten the bleed nipple fully, replace the wheel and jack the vehicle down.

	17. Replace reservoir cover and instrument console cover.		17. Replace reservoir cover and instrument console cover.

	18. Take helper to the pub as thanks.		18. Take helper to the pub as thanks.

	19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!		19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!