Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair - Revision history

Hacksawbob: /* CV Bolts */

2014-01-04T23:20:02Z

CV Bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:20, 4 January 2014
Line 131:		Line 131:
	Like allen key bolts, if you have to remove them for any reason, clean any oil/grit/mud from the head recess carefully, to ensure the spline bit goes in fully, otherwise you run the risk of chewing them out during removal. A few seconds spent doing that can save hours of problems later. If you do encounter a completely stubborn bolt with a chewed head, I found the best way to get them started is to use a cold chisel and knock them round enough (anticlockwise) to break the bolt's grip and then get mole grips on them.		Like allen key bolts, if you have to remove them for any reason, clean any oil/grit/mud from the head recess carefully, to ensure the spline bit goes in fully, otherwise you run the risk of chewing them out during removal. A few seconds spent doing that can save hours of problems later. If you do encounter a completely stubborn bolt with a chewed head, I found the best way to get them started is to use a cold chisel and knock them round enough (anticlockwise) to break the bolt's grip and then get mole grips on them.

	If you round a head on an outer bolt drill it out with a 7mm drill bit then hammer in a 7mm hex headed socket on an extension. This should give you enough purchase to remove it. If you really cant get it out, the final solution is to go through the wheel bearing removal procedure and pull the whole drive shaft out through the trailing arm. [[Steering_and_Suspension_Wheel_Bearings]]		If you round a head on an outer bolt drill it out with a 7mm drill bit then hammer in a 7mm hex headed socket on an extension. This should give you enough purchase to remove it. If you really cant get it out, the final solution is to go through the wheel bearing removal procedure and pull the whole drive shaft out through the trailing arm still attached to the bearing and hub housing so you can work on it with better access. [[Steering_and_Suspension_Wheel_Bearings]]

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2014-01-04T23:07:42Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:07, 4 January 2014
Line 130:		Line 130:

	Like allen key bolts, if you have to remove them for any reason, clean any oil/grit/mud from the head recess carefully, to ensure the spline bit goes in fully, otherwise you run the risk of chewing them out during removal. A few seconds spent doing that can save hours of problems later. If you do encounter a completely stubborn bolt with a chewed head, I found the best way to get them started is to use a cold chisel and knock them round enough (anticlockwise) to break the bolt's grip and then get mole grips on them.		Like allen key bolts, if you have to remove them for any reason, clean any oil/grit/mud from the head recess carefully, to ensure the spline bit goes in fully, otherwise you run the risk of chewing them out during removal. A few seconds spent doing that can save hours of problems later. If you do encounter a completely stubborn bolt with a chewed head, I found the best way to get them started is to use a cold chisel and knock them round enough (anticlockwise) to break the bolt's grip and then get mole grips on them.

			If you round a head on an outer bolt drill it out with a 7mm drill bit then hammer in a 7mm hex headed socket on an extension. This should give you enough purchase to remove it. If you really cant get it out, the final solution is to go through the wheel bearing removal procedure and pull the whole drive shaft out through the trailing arm. [[Steering_and_Suspension_Wheel_Bearings]]

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2014-01-04T22:58:07Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:58, 4 January 2014
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	'''Hacksawbob''' the CV boot maybe held on with either 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple square. OR 6mm hex/allen headed bolts, and maybe a mixture of the two! make sure you use the right tool for the job as these are a pig to remove if rounded common sense says replace them if they look iffy as next time they wont come off so easy and you will know the pain of using mole grips in confined spaces. The 8mm splined bit is available from GSF in 3/8 socket		'''Hacksawbob''' the CV boot maybe held on with either 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple square. OR 6mm hex/allen headed bolts, and maybe a mixture of the two! make sure you use the right tool for the job as these are a pig to remove if rounded common sense says replace them if they look iffy as next time they wont come off so easy and you will know the pain of using mole grips in confined spaces. The 8mm splined bit is available from GSF in 3/8 socket

	A little cleaning and preparation can save you hours/days/weeks of frustration and scarred (and scared?) knuckles. Get a good torch wd40, air compressor, childs toothbrush etc to give the bolt heads a right good clean. You can get to all of them bar two with the wheel on ground then raise or roll forward to get to other two, A happy helper in the drivers seat putting it into neutral/Hbrake on and off whilst you loosen underneath the raised van can save you a bit of messing about. Crack all the bolts off first then go around again removing them. Another top tip is to take it to a car wash and give the trailing arm a right good clean out before you start as when you come to fit the outers you will get grit and rust etc falling into your nice fresh CV grease. You will find that the CV is very heavy if you are trying to hold it in situ with one hand and fitting the bolts with the other, ~~make~~ up ~~a plat form~~ or get a helper to hold it whilst you get the first bolt in.A hydraulic press is recommended to get the inner CV bearing off the shaft, although with wear it may slide off easily.		A little cleaning and preparation can save you hours/days/weeks of frustration and scarred (and scared?) knuckles. Get a good torch wd40, air compressor, childs toothbrush etc to give the bolt heads a right good clean. You can get to all of them bar two with the wheel on ground then raise or roll forward to get to other two, A happy helper in the drivers seat putting it into neutral/Hbrake on and off whilst you loosen underneath the raised van can save you a bit of messing about. Or you can put the van in gear with the gear selector on the gearbox, undo the bolt, select neutral, rotate, repeat. Crack all the bolts off first then go around again removing them. Another top tip is to take it to a car wash and give the trailing arm a right good clean out before you start as when you come to fit the outers you will get grit and rust etc falling into your nice fresh CV grease. You will find that the CV is very heavy if you are trying to hold it in situ with one hand and fitting the bolts with the other, tie up the shaft or get a helper to hold it whilst you get the first bolt in. A hydraulic press is recommended to get the inner CV bearing off the shaft, although with wear it may slide off easily.

	'''Fitting CV joint revisited'''		'''Fitting CV joint revisited'''
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	Now when I came to tighten it all up I came accross a problem. My torque wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... the head was being forced off centre by the CV boot. so I chewed up the bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. But I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to ~~chew~~ up...! I did mine up with a standard 3/8ths socket with the tri square socket removed from the 1/2 inch and it was all a lot easier. I will check them again after 50miles or so and make sure they aren't coming loose. a 3/8 torque wrench would be better.		Now when I came to tighten it all up I came accross a problem. My torque wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... the head was being forced off centre by the CV boot. so I chewed up the bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. But I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to chewed up...! I did mine up with a standard 3/8ths socket with the tri square socket removed from the 1/2 inch and it was all a lot easier. I will check them again after 50miles or so and make sure they aren't coming loose. a 3/8 torque wrench would be better.


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	Having played Rubik's cube with it for quite long enough (pre-greasing up being the best time Idea ), settled for the way that it seemed to offer least resistance and jamming up at large angles. As for putting on the truck, think the circlip goes the least chamfered side of the inner race.		Having played Rubik's cube with it for quite long enough (pre-greasing up being the best time Idea ), settled for the way that it seemed to offer least resistance and jamming up at large angles. As for putting on the truck, think the circlip goes the least chamfered side of the inner race.

	Will dig out the manuals unless ~~soemone~~ knows the 'real way', 'right way' or indeed that it doesn't matter a jot for some makes, that it does for OEM joints, or vice versa... (I'm sure that's enough options Rolling Eyes )		Will dig out the manuals unless someone knows the 'real way', 'right way' or indeed that it doesn't matter a jot for some makes, that it does for OEM joints, or vice versa... (I'm sure that's enough options Rolling Eyes )

	90gms of the black stuff per joint?		90gms of the black stuff per joint?

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2012-09-30T19:36:52Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 30 September 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
	==CV Joint Repair==		==CV Joint Repair==

			Sarran's you tube video http://youtu.be/meTNBph3rUU


	*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]		*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2012-03-18T15:42:04Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:42, 18 March 2012
Line 9:		Line 9:
	'''Hacksawbob''' the CV boot maybe held on with either 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple square. OR 6mm hex/allen headed bolts, and maybe a mixture of the two! make sure you use the right tool for the job as these are a pig to remove if rounded common sense says replace them if they look iffy as next time they wont come off so easy and you will know the pain of using mole grips in confined spaces. The 8mm splined bit is available from GSF in 3/8 socket		'''Hacksawbob''' the CV boot maybe held on with either 8mm 12 point internal spline, aka CV Joint tool aka triple square. OR 6mm hex/allen headed bolts, and maybe a mixture of the two! make sure you use the right tool for the job as these are a pig to remove if rounded common sense says replace them if they look iffy as next time they wont come off so easy and you will know the pain of using mole grips in confined spaces. The 8mm splined bit is available from GSF in 3/8 socket

	A little cleaning and preparation can save you hours/days/weeks of frustration and scarred (and scared?) knuckles. Get a good torch wd40, air compressor, childs toothbrush etc to give the bolt heads a right good clean. You can get to all of them bar two with the wheel on ground then raise or roll forward to get to other two, A happy helper in the drivers seat putting it into neutral/Hbrake on and off whilst you loosen underneath the raised van can save you a bit of messing about. Crack all the bolts off first then go around again removing them. Another top tip is to take it to a car wash and give the trailing arm a right good clean out before you start as when you come to fit the outers you will get grit and rust etc falling into your nice fresh CV grease. You will find that the CV is very heavy if you are trying to hold it in situ with one hand and fitting the bolts with the other, make up a plat form or get a helper to hold it whilst you get the first bolt in.A hydraulic press is recommended to get the inner CV bearing off the shaft, although with wear it may slide off easily~~. Certainly to get the new ones on it is definitely required~~.		A little cleaning and preparation can save you hours/days/weeks of frustration and scarred (and scared?) knuckles. Get a good torch wd40, air compressor, childs toothbrush etc to give the bolt heads a right good clean. You can get to all of them bar two with the wheel on ground then raise or roll forward to get to other two, A happy helper in the drivers seat putting it into neutral/Hbrake on and off whilst you loosen underneath the raised van can save you a bit of messing about. Crack all the bolts off first then go around again removing them. Another top tip is to take it to a car wash and give the trailing arm a right good clean out before you start as when you come to fit the outers you will get grit and rust etc falling into your nice fresh CV grease. You will find that the CV is very heavy if you are trying to hold it in situ with one hand and fitting the bolts with the other, make up a plat form or get a helper to hold it whilst you get the first bolt in.A hydraulic press is recommended to get the inner CV bearing off the shaft, although with wear it may slide off easily.

	'''Fitting CV joint revisited'''		'''Fitting CV joint revisited'''
Line 101:		Line 101:

	----		----


	==CV Bolts==		==CV Bolts==

Hacksawbob at 15:41, 18 March 2012

2012-03-18T15:41:28Z

@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 A little cleaning and preparation can save you hours/days/weeks of frustration and scarred (and scared?) knuckles.  Get a good torch wd40, air compressor, childs toothbrush etc to give the bolt heads a right good clean. You can get to all of them bar two with the wheel on ground then raise or roll forward to get to other two, A happy helper in the drivers seat putting it into neutral/Hbrake on and off whilst you loosen underneath  the raised van can save you a bit of messing about. Crack all the bolts off first then go around again removing them. Another top tip is to take it to a car wash and give the trailing arm a right good clean out before you start as when you come to fit the outers you will get grit and rust etc falling into your nice fresh CV grease. You will find that the CV is very heavy if you are trying to hold it in situ with one hand and fitting the bolts with the other, make up a plat form or get a helper to hold it whilst you get the first bolt in.A hydraulic press is recommended to get the inner CV bearing off the shaft, although with wear it may slide off easily. Certainly to get the new ones on it is definitely required.
 ----
@@ Line 77: / Line 102: @@
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 ==CV Bolts==

Hacksawbob at 15:40, 18 March 2012

2012-03-18T15:40:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:40, 18 March 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
	==CV Joint Repair==		==CV Joint Repair==

			*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]

			*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

	(see further down for CV bolts)		(see further down for CV bolts)

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2012-03-18T15:38:40Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:38, 18 March 2012
Line 92:		Line 92:
	Super cleaned the area with Jizer/gunk and a stiff brush. The original 6mm VW hex sockets came off nice and clean and easy. grease was dripping every where though well ovedue for a change of grease even if the joint was still good and not noisy. I only had the standard circlip pliers which have a pair of round points. So I adapted them by grinding the outside faces flat It is not possible to remove the circlip with a round nosed set of circlip pliers, they must be flat nosed. I used the lump hammer to tap the old joint off once the circlip was out of the way it came off nice and easy, but I have had them needed to be pressed off in the past, (esp the outers). You can use a set of pullers to get the joint off too, this one came off with a bit of tapping with a 4lb lump hammer.		Super cleaned the area with Jizer/gunk and a stiff brush. The original 6mm VW hex sockets came off nice and clean and easy. grease was dripping every where though well ovedue for a change of grease even if the joint was still good and not noisy. I only had the standard circlip pliers which have a pair of round points. So I adapted them by grinding the outside faces flat It is not possible to remove the circlip with a round nosed set of circlip pliers, they must be flat nosed. I used the lump hammer to tap the old joint off once the circlip was out of the way it came off nice and easy, but I have had them needed to be pressed off in the past, (esp the outers). You can use a set of pullers to get the joint off too, this one came off with a bit of tapping with a 4lb lump hammer.

			Fit the boot clamp, then the boot then the new CV joint. I tapped it on with a lump hammer till it was flush with the drive shaft, then I used a 27mm (injector) socket to tap it on further to reveal the circlip groove but any donut shaped of a suitable size would do you. Refit the bolts with serated washers and spreader plates recovered from the old fittment (they are not included in a boot kit from GKN/lobro/brickwerks. These spreader plate jobbies that go between the bolts, not sure what they do but they should be there! Then gease the joint up AFTER everything is in place I used the sachet and then about half as much again, be free whith it it is unlikely you will pack too much! But keep it SUPER CLEAN!!! dont get any grit in there!
	Of course once all the old CV and boint bolt head turned to creaam cheese! his was in th epresenfce of a .. I removed the offending bolt and I replaced =it so my advice is to not use a torque wrench unless it fits within oot are off give the drive shaft a good clean, fit the boot clamp, then the boot then the CV joint. I tapped it on with a lump hammer till it was flush with the drive shaft, then I used a 27mm (injector) socket to tap it on further to reveal the circlip groove but any donut shaped of a suitable size would do you. Refit the bolts with serated washers and spreader plates recovered from the old fittment (they are not included in a boot kit from GKN/lobro/brickwerks. These spreader plate jobbies that go between the bolts, not sure what they do but they should be there! Then gease the joint up AFTER everything is in place I used the sachet and then about half as much again, be free whith it it is unlikely you will pack too much! But keep it SUPER CLEAN!!! dont get any grit in there!

Hacksawbob at 15:21, 18 March 2012

2012-03-18T15:21:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:21, 18 March 2012
Line 96:		Line 96:


	Now when I came to tighten it all up I came accross a problem. My torque wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... the head was being forced off centre by the CV boot. so I chewed up ~~a GKN~~ bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. But I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to chew up...! I did mine up with a standard 3/8ths socket with the tri square socket removed from the 1/2 inch and it was all a lot easier. I will check them again after 50miles or so and make sure they aren't coming loose. a 3/8 torque wrench would be better.		Now when I came to tighten it all up I came accross a problem. My torque wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... the head was being forced off centre by the CV boot. so I chewed up the bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. But I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to chew up...! I did mine up with a standard 3/8ths socket with the tri square socket removed from the 1/2 inch and it was all a lot easier. I will check them again after 50miles or so and make sure they aren't coming loose. a 3/8 torque wrench would be better.

	==CV Bolts==		==CV Bolts==

Hacksawbob: /* CV Joint Repair */

2012-03-18T15:19:32Z

CV Joint Repair

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:19, 18 March 2012
Line 90:		Line 90:

	I usually remove the wheel and jack the van, but but on this occasion I ran the van onto a 3'X1'X0.5' block of wood. I managed to get to all the bolts on the off side (diesel LHD if it matters?) without the wheel rotation whilst on axle stands.		I usually remove the wheel and jack the van, but but on this occasion I ran the van onto a 3'X1'X0.5' block of wood. I managed to get to all the bolts on the off side (diesel LHD if it matters?) without the wheel rotation whilst on axle stands.
	Super cleaned the area with Jizer/gunk and a stiff brush. The original 6mm VW hex sockets came off nice and clean and easy. grease was dripping every where though well ovedue for a change of grease even if the joint was still good and not noisy. I only had the standard circlip pliers which have a pair of round points. So I adapted them by grinding the outside faces flat It is not possible to remove the circlip with a round nosed set of circlip pliers, they must be flat nosed. I used the lump hammer to tap the old joint off once the circlip was out of the way it came off nice and easy, but I have had them needed to be pressed off in the past, (esp the outers).		Super cleaned the area with Jizer/gunk and a stiff brush. The original 6mm VW hex sockets came off nice and clean and easy. grease was dripping every where though well ovedue for a change of grease even if the joint was still good and not noisy. I only had the standard circlip pliers which have a pair of round points. So I adapted them by grinding the outside faces flat It is not possible to remove the circlip with a round nosed set of circlip pliers, they must be flat nosed. I used the lump hammer to tap the old joint off once the circlip was out of the way it came off nice and easy, but I have had them needed to be pressed off in the past, (esp the outers). You can use a set of pullers to get the joint off too, this one came off with a bit of tapping with a 4lb lump hammer.


Line 96:		Line 96:


	Now when I came to tighten it all up I came ~~a ccross~~ a problem. ~~mytorque~~ wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... so I chewed up a GKN bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. ~~but~~ I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to chew up...!		Now when I came to tighten it all up I came accross a problem. My torque wrench was too big and chunky to get the tri square bit square onto the bolt head.... the head was being forced off centre by the CV boot. so I chewed up a GKN bolt head ... very easily!!!! fortunately I had a genuine VAG bolt to go on.. But I was amazed at how easily the GKN 12 point was to chew up...! I did mine up with a standard 3/8ths socket with the tri square socket removed from the 1/2 inch and it was all a lot easier. I will check them again after 50miles or so and make sure they aren't coming loose. a 3/8 torque wrench would be better.

	==CV Bolts==		==CV Bolts==