Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement - Revision history

Hacksawbob at 18:01, 26 April 2011

2011-04-26T18:01:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:01, 26 April 2011
Line 3:		Line 3:
	http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.		http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.

	cable ~~lengths from~~ ETOS		Also at march 2011 Brickwerks sell some cables

			'''2 wheel drive accelerator cable lengthsfrom ETOS'''

			'''Aircooled'''

	1 paint mark green = CT, CZ,CV lhd=3565mm		1 paint mark green = CT, CZ,CV lhd=3565mm
Line 13:		Line 17:
	1 paint mark yellow = CU rhd = 3870mm		1 paint mark yellow = CU rhd = 3870mm

	'''Part no/engine/RHD or LHD/length'''		Watercooled

			'''Part no/engine/RHD or LHD/length/'''

	251 721 555 Q/2.1L/LHD/3610mm		251 721 555 Q/2.1L/LHD/3610mm/

	252 721 555 R/2.1L/RHD/3700mm		252 721 555 R/2.1L/RHD/3700mm
Line 26:		Line 32:

	252 721 555 T/Diesel/RHD/4057mm		252 721 555 T/Diesel/RHD/4057mm

			note 1.9 engines have ball end 2.1 have a solid pin which is clamped by a screw diesel have a 'hollow box'

Hacksawbob at 17:52, 26 April 2011

2011-04-26T17:52:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:52, 26 April 2011
Line 2:		Line 2:

	http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.		http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.

			cable lengths from ETOS

			1 paint mark green = CT, CZ,CV lhd=3565mm

			1 paint mark orange = CU lhd = 3805mm

			1 paint mark red = CT, CZ, CV rhd = 3645mm

			1 paint mark yellow = CU rhd = 3870mm

			'''Part no/engine/RHD or LHD/length'''

			251 721 555 Q/2.1L/LHD/3610mm

			252 721 555 R/2.1L/RHD/3700mm

			251 721 555 R/1.9L/LHD/3724mm

			252 721 555 S/1.9L/RHD/3810mm

			251 721 555 S/Diesel/LHD/3980mm

			252 721 555 T/Diesel/RHD/4057mm


	'''Hacksawbob'''		'''Hacksawbob'''

Hacksawbob at 23:00, 29 April 2010

2010-04-29T23:00:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:00, 29 April 2010
Line 19:		Line 19:
	'''Disconect the middle'''		'''Disconect the middle'''

	the cable is bolted to the middle chassis member with 10mm nut and bolt disconected here. just forward of this there shuold be a short braided rubber tube conecting the removeable cable assembly to the plastic sleeve. Pull this apart and pull through the cable AND the string from the front.		the cable is bolted to the middle chassis member with 10mm nut and bolt disconected here. just forward of this there shuold be a short braided rubber tube conecting the removeable cable assembly to the plastic sleeve. Pull this apart and pull through the cable AND the string from the front to back.

	'''Disconect rear.'''		'''Disconect rear.'''

	The cable enters the front of the engine bay then has a retaining circlip to the right of the carb pull this criclip off with some pliers. The end of the cable is trapped in the carb actuator but will remove once you get some slack on it. make a note of how it connects so you can re ~~attatch~~ it later. Pull through the rear section of cable to the middle using the string trick again, this is optional for the rear but may help remind you of the route it takes.		The cable enters the front of the engine bay then has a retaining circlip to the right of the carb pull this criclip off with some pliers. The end of the cable is trapped in the carb actuator but will remove once you get some slack on it. make a note of how it connects so you can re attach it later. Pull through the rear section of cable to the middle using the string trick again, this is optional for the rear but may help remind you of the route it takes.

	I squirted some WD 40 down the cable to help lubricate it and hopefully keep the moisture out.		I squirted some WD 40 down the cable to help lubricate it and hopefully keep the moisture out.
Line 29:		Line 29:
	'''Fit new cable'''		'''Fit new cable'''

	slip on the rubber braided connector and pull cable through from the front with the string and re ~~attatch~~ the front clamp (if you didn't loose it like me!)		slip on the rubber braided connector and pull cable through from the front with the string and re attach the front clamp (if you didn't loose it like me!)

	Pull the rear section through to the back and ~~attatch~~ to the rear actuator and replace the circlip		Pull the rear section through to the back and attach to the rear actuator and replace the circlip

	~~Attatch~~ the bolt in the centre. Some copper grease wouldn't go amiss here.		Attach the bolt in the centre. Some copper grease wouldn't go amiss here.

	Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.		Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.

Hacksawbob at 09:22, 5 October 2009

2009-10-05T09:22:43Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:22, 5 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	Throttle cable - for searchability!		Throttle cable - for searchability!

	http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.		http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.

Hacksawbob at 09:22, 5 October 2009

2009-10-05T09:22:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:22, 5 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
			Throttle cable - for searchability!
	http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.		http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.

Hacksawbob at 14:35, 3 October 2009

2009-10-03T14:35:36Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:35, 3 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
			http://www.speedycables.com/ can replicate your old cable may make life easier than trying to source an original as there are so many different types to choose from.

	'''Hacksawbob'''		'''Hacksawbob'''

Hacksawbob at 21:04, 15 November 2007

2007-11-15T21:04:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:04, 15 November 2007
Line 38:		Line 38:

	[[Image:Accel-cable-replace3.jpg\|thumb\|left]]		[[Image:Accel-cable-replace3.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

			[[Image:Accel-cable-replace5.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

Hacksawbob at 21:02, 15 November 2007

2007-11-15T21:02:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:02, 15 November 2007
Line 34:		Line 34:

	[[Image:Accel-cable-replace1.jpg\|thumb\|left]]		[[Image:Accel-cable-replace1.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

			[[image:Accel-cable-replace2.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

			[[Image:Accel-cable-replace3.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

Hacksawbob at 20:58, 15 November 2007

2007-11-15T20:58:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 15 November 2007
Line 33:		Line 33:
	Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.		Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.

	[[Image:Accel-cable-replace1.jpg\|~~thub~~\|left]]		[[Image:Accel-cable-replace1.jpg\|thumb\|left]]

Hacksawbob at 20:58, 15 November 2007

2007-11-15T20:58:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 15 November 2007
Line 32:		Line 32:

	Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.		Check the cable for play and tighten with the front clamp as necessary. it should just be taut but not pulling on the carb.

			[[Image:Accel-cable-replace1.jpg\|thub\|left]]