Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump - Revision history

Hacksawbob at 20:06, 17 January 2012

2012-01-17T20:06:32Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:06, 17 January 2012
Line 2:		Line 2:


	'''HarryMann:''' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.		'''HarryMann:''' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money. Edit Jan 2011 Brickyard now sells Meyle diesel oil pumps [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=573&category_id=93&keyword=oil+pump]

	New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already. Check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm long, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through-bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those long bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head. Finally tighten the two large through-bolts		New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already. Check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm long, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through-bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those long bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head. Finally tighten the two large through-bolts

HarryMann at 10:15, 16 September 2009

2009-09-16T10:15:25Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:15, 16 September 2009
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	Clean and check your sump, ensuring the sump plug and thread is in good nick, new copper or neoprene washer, don't overtighten!		Clean and check your sump, ensuring the sump plug and thread is in good nick, new copper or neoprene washer, don't overtighten!


			[[Parts - Shadek Oil pump]]

HarryMann at 09:55, 23 July 2007

2007-07-23T09:55:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:55, 23 July 2007
Line 4:		Line 4:
	'''HarryMann:''' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.		'''HarryMann:''' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.

	New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already ~~(check~~ clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm ~~longI think~~, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through- bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those ~~lonmg~~ bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head.		New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already. Check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm long, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through-bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those long bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head. Finally tighten the two large through-bolts

	N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)		N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)

HarryMann at 09:53, 23 July 2007

2007-07-23T09:53:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:53, 23 July 2007
Line 7:		Line 7:

	N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)		N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)


			Clean and check your sump, ensuring the sump plug and thread is in good nick, new copper or neoprene washer, don't overtighten!

HarryMann at 09:51, 23 July 2007

2007-07-23T09:51:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:51, 23 July 2007
Line 2:		Line 2:


	'''HarryMann:'' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.		'''HarryMann:''' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.

	New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already (check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm longI think, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through- bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those lonmg bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head.		New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already (check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm longI think, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through- bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those lonmg bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head.

	N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)		N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)

HarryMann at 09:51, 23 July 2007

2007-07-23T09:51:09Z

New page

'''Anon:''' I am changing my 1.6D for a 1Y, are there any particular things I should be aware of, other than fact I need to make sure the engine crank has a new spigot shaft bearing.

'''HarryMann:'' As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.

New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already (check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm longI think, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through- bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those lonmg bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head.

N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)