Coolant and Heating System overhaul 3 - Revision history

CovKid: /* Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems */

2015-06-20T22:55:58Z

Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:55, 20 June 2015
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	==Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems==		==Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems==

	Noise from bearings - can sound like tappets (or just squeal initially), constant need to adjust fanbelt culminating in sudden loss of water pressure, extreme needle movement on temperature gauge (ie Max) and clouds of steam. When cool, jiggling the water pump pulley (to left of main pulley) and ideally with belt off, will cause a dribbling or gush of water on the ground. The pulley will probably feel loose if the bearings have gone.		Noise from bearings - can sound like tappets (or just squeal initially), constant need to adjust fanbelt culminating in sudden loss of water pressure, extreme needle movement on temperature gauge (ie Max) and clouds of steam. When cool, jiggling the water pump pulley (to left of main pulley) and ideally with belt off, will cause a dribbling or gush of water on the ground. The pulley will probably feel loose if the bearings have gone. Other items are likely to be damaged by a 'boil up' - notably rad fan switch. It can cook.

	Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI		Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI

CovKid: /* Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine */

2014-10-12T13:05:33Z

Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:05, 12 October 2014
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	Firstly, ~~although~~ you ~~could~~ in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, clean it, replace any damaged bolts, and reseal, than leave it and have a major problem on the road at a future date.		Firstly, I've written all this to help you do this job without it ending in tears - and believe me it can. Although you can in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as stuck/seized bolts. In my honest opinion (and you'd do well to trust me on this), it is better to remove it all, clean everything, replace any damaged bolts, and reseal, than leave it and have a major problem on the road at a future date. If you approach this with short cuts in mind, you'll pay for it dearly.

	The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most ~~peoiple~~ won't have to hand ~~to remove stubborb bolts~~ - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. ~~Allow~~ a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!		The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. The housing is like gold dust as they rarely come up second-hand and are not available new so you should make every effort to avoid damaging it.

			If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most people won't have to hand - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse by damaging something. If you encounter something stubborn, read this article again over a brew and decide how best to proceed. Certainly allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!

	The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.		The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.

Ghost123uk at 06:56, 17 June 2014

2014-06-17T06:56:27Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:56, 17 June 2014
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	==Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems==		==Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems==

	Noise from bearings - can sound like tappets (or just squeal initially), constant need to adjust fanbelt culminating in sudden loss of water pressure, extreme needle movement on temperature ~~guage~~ (ie Max) and clouds of steam. When cool, jiggling the water pump pulley (to left of main pulley) and ideally with belt off, will cause a dribbling or gush of water on the ground. The pulley will probably feel loose if the bearings have gone.		Noise from bearings - can sound like tappets (or just squeal initially), constant need to adjust fanbelt culminating in sudden loss of water pressure, extreme needle movement on temperature gauge (ie Max) and clouds of steam. When cool, jiggling the water pump pulley (to left of main pulley) and ideally with belt off, will cause a dribbling or gush of water on the ground. The pulley will probably feel loose if the bearings have gone.

	Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI		Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI

	The thermostat may give a cold reading at the temperature ~~guage~~ due to it being partially stuck open or readings that don't fit the norm - ie it never really warms up properly or in ~~wortse~~ (but rare) scenario it is stuck closed leading to no route for water to radiator and the potential for overheating. In the latter case, no matter how fast the fan is going, the temperature will continue to climb. An airlock will also cause this.		The thermostat may give a cold reading at the temperature gauge due to it being partially stuck open or readings that don't fit the norm - ie it never really warms up properly or in worst (but rare) scenario it is stuck closed leading to no route for water to radiator and the potential for overheating. In the latter case, no matter how fast the fan is going, the temperature will continue to climb. An airlock will also cause this.

	==Removal Process==		==Removal Process==

CovKid: /* Removal Process */

2014-05-28T20:55:30Z

Removal Process

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:55, 28 May 2014
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	Photo: ''Thermostat housing removed from vehicle but with a seized bolt (note damaged head). This was eventually removed in a vice with a damaged bolt remover kit which will bite on to rounded bolt heads. Alternatively you could centre-punch bolt head and drill it out but on a steel bolt in an aluminium casting its EASY to go off centre. Avoid that if you can and under no circumstance attempt this at home with a hand drill. It will not work. You need an accurate setup.''		Photo: ''Thermostat housing removed from vehicle but with a seized bolt (note damaged head). This was eventually removed in a vice with an Irwin damaged bolt remover kit which will bite on to rounded bolt heads. Alternatively you could centre-punch bolt head and drill it out but on a steel bolt in an aluminium casting its EASY to go off centre. Avoid that if you can and under no circumstance attempt this at home with a hand drill. It will not work. You need an accurate setup.''

CovKid: /* Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine */

2014-05-07T06:27:43Z

Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:27, 7 May 2014
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	Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, ~~replacing~~ any damaged bolts, ~~give the whole assembly a good clean~~ and reseal it, than ~~hsve~~ a major problem on the road at a future date.		Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, clean it, replace any damaged bolts, and reseal, than leave it and have a major problem on the road at a future date.

	The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!		The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!

CovKid: /* Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine */

2014-05-07T06:26:23Z

Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:26, 7 May 2014
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	Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, replacing any damaged bolts, give the whole assembly a good clean and reseal it.		Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, replacing any damaged bolts, give the whole assembly a good clean and reseal it, than hsve a major problem on the road at a future date.

	The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!		The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!

CovKid: /* Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems */

2014-05-07T06:19:02Z

Diagnosing Pump Wear & and thermostat problems

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:19, 7 May 2014
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	Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI		Heres my comparison between a new and worn water pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LghNy400HzI

	The thermostat may give a cold reading at the temperature guage due to it being partially stuck open or readings that don't fit the norm - ie it never really warms up properly or in wortse (but rare) scenario it is stuck closed leading to no route for water to radiator.		The thermostat may give a cold reading at the temperature guage due to it being partially stuck open or readings that don't fit the norm - ie it never really warms up properly or in wortse (but rare) scenario it is stuck closed leading to no route for water to radiator and the potential for overheating. In the latter case, no matter how fast the fan is going, the temperature will continue to climb. An airlock will also cause this.

	==Removal Process==		==Removal Process==

CovKid: /* Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine */

2014-05-07T06:16:38Z

Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:16, 7 May 2014
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	Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, replacing any damaged bolts, give the whole assembly a good clean and reseal it.		Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, replacing any damaged bolts, give the whole assembly a good clean and reseal it.

	The 1.9 thermostat differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and ~~the thermosts casting~~ can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!		The 1.9 thermostat housing differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and it can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!

	The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.		The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.

CovKid: /* Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine */

2014-05-07T06:15:09Z

Introduction to removal of water pump or thermostat on 1.9DG Engine

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:15, 7 May 2014
Line 4:		Line 4:


	Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see removal process below) if ~~its playing up~~, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul as ~~there~~ is ~~so much work involved~~, it ~~makes little sense not to fit new~~. The 1.9 differs from the 2.1 ~~which has a different thermostat housing~~. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!		Firstly, although you could in theory just change the thermostat (see thermostat removal process below) if either pump or thermostat is faulty, its better to do '''both''' if the condition of them is unknown. Likewise, if the pump bearings have gone requiring a pump swap, you should change the thermostat too. In general, this job should be approached as an overhaul due to the amount of corrosion you can encounter as well as seized bolts. It is better to remove it all, replacing any damaged bolts, give the whole assembly a good clean and reseal it.

			The 1.9 thermostat differs from the 2.1 and others post-85 and the thermosts casting can develop pinhole leaks, particularly if antifreeze concentrations have not been maintained. If I had to give this job a grade in terms of difficulty, I'd give it a 10 out of 10 for testing patience and requiring tools most peoiple won't have to hand to remove stubborb bolts - be prepared for that! '''DO NOT''' underestimate this job. You can be faced with all kinds of problems due to old or stuck bolts. Take your time, don't lose your rag, and THINK before you make your next move. Always imagine worse case scenario and try to mitigate any chances of making a bad situation even worse. Allow a couple of days (minimum) to do this. It took me a week!

	The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.		The pump for these engines isn't that expensive compared to others. Watch out for 'cheapie' thermostats - its is NOT unusual for new ones to be faulty. Brickwerks do good ones but in any event, TEST it in boiling water to make sure it actually works as intended, before fitting.

CovKid: /* Removal Process */

2014-05-05T19:17:22Z

Removal Process

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:17, 5 May 2014
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	'''Thermostat & Pump'''		'''Thermostat & Pump'''

	OK, lets get it out ~~(pump & thermostat~~ as ~~one)~~.		OK, lets get both out as a unit and do a proper job.

	1. Disconnect battery		1. Disconnect battery