Camping Interior Fitting a split charger - Revision history

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge */

2015-09-19T08:53:49Z

Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:53, 19 September 2015
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	== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==		== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==

	~~The~~ minimum voltage you should ever let a battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low, ~~Here is one~~ = http://www.ebay.co.uk/~~itm~~/12V~~-PROGRAMMABLE-LOW-VOLTAGE-DISCONNECT-LVD-WITH-LCD-DISPLAY-PROTECT-BATTERY-/271768600800?pt~~=~~LH_DefaultDomain_3~~&~~hash~~=~~item3f46abc0e0[/quote]~~		To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, like these = http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Ghost123uk at 08:46, 19 September 2015

2015-09-19T08:46:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:46, 19 September 2015
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	The connector has some very small numbers on it - you need to find the blue wire from number 11 and join your relay to this You can test if you have the right wire by disconnecting the blue wire from terminal 11 and then seeing if the red 'no charge' light ( on the dash) still comes on when you first start the engine - with the correct blue wire disconnected the light shouldn't come on at all.		The connector has some very small numbers on it - you need to find the blue wire from number 11 and join your relay to this You can test if you have the right wire by disconnecting the blue wire from terminal 11 and then seeing if the red 'no charge' light ( on the dash) still comes on when you first start the engine - with the correct blue wire disconnected the light shouldn't come on at all.
	Just make sure that you reconnect the wire back into number 11 when you've finished or you'll spend hours wondering why the no charge light has stopped working - don't ask me how I know this!.		Just make sure that you reconnect the wire back into number 11 when you've finished or you'll spend hours wondering why the no charge light has stopped working - don't ask me how I know this!.

			== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==

			The minimum voltage you should ever let a battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low, Here is one = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-PROGRAMMABLE-LOW-VOLTAGE-DISCONNECT-LVD-WITH-LCD-DISPLAY-PROTECT-BATTERY-/271768600800?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f46abc0e0[/quote]

CovKid: /* Split charge 4 */

2014-10-17T18:47:26Z

Split charge 4

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:47, 17 October 2014
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	You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)		You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)

	California Dreamin: Just a word of warning when 'rating' your split charge components. Whilst a 30amp relay, voltage sensing or otherwise, might appear to work well initially, I have to question the 'long term' reliability given that I know, from personal experience, that a heavily discharged battery can draw mid 30's amps on initial start, dropping quickly after a few seconds but never the less, in excess of the rating of the components mentioned above.		'''California Dreamin''': Just a word of warning when 'rating' your split charge components. Whilst a 30amp relay, voltage sensing or otherwise, might appear to work well initially, I have to question the 'long term' reliability given that I know, from personal experience, that a heavily discharged battery can draw mid 30's amps on initial start, dropping quickly after a few seconds but never the less, in excess of the rating of the components mentioned above.
	Therefore, the sensible recommendation would be 40amp as a minimum with fuses always rated lower than the weakest component.		Therefore, the sensible recommendation would be 40amp as a minimum with fuses always rated lower than the weakest component.

CovKid: /* Split charge 4 */

2014-10-17T18:45:54Z

Split charge 4

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:45, 17 October 2014
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	[http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Towbar_electrical_parts.html Split charge relay from Western Towing]		[http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Towbar_electrical_parts.html Split charge relay from Western Towing]

	You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)		You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)

			California Dreamin: Just a word of warning when 'rating' your split charge components. Whilst a 30amp relay, voltage sensing or otherwise, might appear to work well initially, I have to question the 'long term' reliability given that I know, from personal experience, that a heavily discharged battery can draw mid 30's amps on initial start, dropping quickly after a few seconds but never the less, in excess of the rating of the components mentioned above.
			Therefore, the sensible recommendation would be 40amp as a minimum with fuses always rated lower than the weakest component.

	It's also a 30A unit, still auto sensing, same outputs but tasteful black. £12.87 and a bit harder to find in the rear light cluster of a crash damaged Carlton due to it's stealth looks.		It's also a 30A unit, still auto sensing, same outputs but tasteful black. £12.87 and a bit harder to find in the rear light cluster of a crash damaged Carlton due to it's stealth looks.

CovKid: /* Split charge 3 */

2014-10-17T18:31:18Z

Split charge 3

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:31, 17 October 2014
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	== Split charge 3 ==		== Split charge 3 ==
	Wiring a split charge relay is pretty simple, the theory is that as soon as the alternator starts charging the relay links the leisure battery ~~into the charging circuit so that it is charged in parallel~~ with the main battery. When the engine is not running or is cranking the engine (important) then the two batteries are separated. This allows the leisure battery to be discharged while leaving the vehicle battery to start the engine. I have been asked why not just connect the relay to an ignition switched live (one which comes on with the key) and indeed I have done so in a Ford recovery van to charge a second battery for jump starting. The trouble is the T25 (T3) does not have an accessories position on it's key, the Ford did and this was disconnected when the engine was being cranked. If the leisure battery is not disconnected during cranking then a large load will be placed on the linking wires and the fuses ~~(you will use fuses won't you?)~~ will blow.		Wiring a split charge relay is pretty simple, the theory is that as soon as the alternator starts charging the relay links the leisure battery with the main battery to charge both. When the engine is not running or is cranking the engine (important) then the two batteries are separated. This allows the leisure battery to be discharged while leaving the vehicle battery to start the engine. I have been asked why not just connect the relay to an ignition switched live (one which comes on with the key) and indeed I have done so in a Ford recovery van to charge a second battery for jump starting. The trouble is the T25 (T3) does not have an accessories position on it's key, the Ford did and this was disconnected when the engine was being cranked. If the leisure battery is not disconnected during cranking then a large load will be placed on the linking wires and the inline fuses will blow.

	Enough theory, the wiring ....		Enough theory, the wiring ....

	~~[[Image:Split_charge_relay.gif]]~~		'''Diagram with upgraded wiring'''

	~~(diagram by~~ '''~~Excalibur''')~~


	~~'''Alternative diagram by CaliforniaDreamin~~ with upgraded wiring'''

	[[image:Splitchargecircuit2.jpg]]		[[image:Splitchargecircuit2.jpg]]

	The numbers on the relay are standard and any accessory relay of the type sold for spotlights etc will do, ~~the~~ fuse sizes should work fine (a bigger fuse will be OK but make sure the fuse is rated less than the wire), The 'thin wire to no charge light' on the T25 (T3) is blue and runs from the alternator, behind the fuse box to pin 11 on the multi-pin connector behind the dash. You can connect into it almost anywhere but I would recommend behind the fuse box if going for the front of the van as the multi-pin connector and the thick-film circuit it plugs into are quite delicate and best not disturbed if working OK. If you have a 12v fridge then it probably already has a relay wired like the one above and, if you can locate it, you can simply join to the wire feeding terminal 86 on that relay.		The numbers on the relay are standard and any accessory relay of the type sold for spotlights etc will do,however, one rated 40 amps or over is recommended. The fuse sizes should work fine (a bigger fuse will be OK but make sure the fuse is rated less than the wire), The 'thin wire to no charge light' on the T25 (T3) is blue and runs from the alternator, behind the fuse box to pin 11 on the multi-pin connector behind the dash. You can connect into it almost anywhere but I would recommend behind the fuse box if going for the front of the van as the multi-pin connector and the thick-film circuit it plugs into are quite delicate and best not disturbed if working OK. If you have a 12v fridge then it probably already has a relay wired like the one above and, if you can locate it, you can simply join to the wire feeding terminal 86 on that relay.

	'''Excalibur:'''		'''Excalibur:'''

	... but use 35 amp fuses and 35 amp wires instead~~, and pick up the relay feed from the ignition instead of the warning light, as some alternators can burn out diodes if done the way in the diagram.......~~and make sure you use a 40amp relay.		... but use 35 amp fuses and 45 amp wires instead and make sure you use a 40amp relay at least.
	[http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6436&criteria=relay&doy=5m3 The 40A relay from Maplin]		[http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6436&criteria=relay&doy=5m3 The 40A relay from Maplin]

	~~'''DiscoDave:'''~~

	~~That is the chap! similarly a 30A one from Halfords for a few quid is also fine!~~

	== Split charge 4 ==		== Split charge 4 ==

CovKid: /* Split charge 4 */

2013-06-13T23:11:53Z

Split charge 4

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:11, 13 June 2013
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	This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it '''doesn't need the signal wire''' from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).		This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it '''doesn't need the signal wire''' from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).

	The terminals should be connected as follows ~~(according to my instructions)~~:		The terminals should be connected as follows:

	~~First~~ two terminals are identical and bridged so basically ONE terminal:		The first two terminals are identical and bridged together so are basically ONE terminal:
	* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal ~~(via a 30amp fuse)~~		* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
	* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal ~~(via~~ a ~~30amp~~ fuse)		* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
	~~(you~~ could use ~~one of them to get~~ a spare feed from starter battery if you needed ~~it I suppose)~~		Whichever is used to go to starter positive, you'll need a 30-40amp fuse on that line. You could then use the other as a spare feed from starter battery if you needed to power something direct from there.
	* 6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again ~~via~~ a ~~30amp~~ fuse)		* 6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again use a 30-40amp fuse)
	* 4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)		* 4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)
	* 2 - connected to your fridge ~~12V~~ (if you want this feature) (again via a fuse~~) It~~ goes dead when your engine is off.		* 2 - connected to your 12v fridge (if you want this feature) - again via a suitable fuse. This connection is only live with engine running and goes dead when your engine is off.

	How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.		How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.

CovKid: /* Split charge 4 */

2013-06-13T23:06:21Z

Split charge 4

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:06, 13 June 2013
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	== Split charge 4 ==		== Split charge 4 ==

	Recently added for anyone who has one of these:		Recently added for anyone who has one of these smart/intelligent relays:

	[[Image:splitkeys.jpg]]		[[Image:splitkeys.jpg]]
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	As Midlifecrisis explains:		As Midlifecrisis explains:

	This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it doesn't need the signal wire from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).		This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it '''doesn't need the signal wire''' from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).

	The terminals should be connected as follows (according to my instructions):		The terminals should be connected as follows (according to my instructions):

CovKid: /* Split charge 4 */

2013-06-13T23:04:42Z

Split charge 4

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:04, 13 June 2013
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	The terminals should be connected as follows (according to my instructions):		The terminals should be connected as follows (according to my instructions):

	12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)		First two terminals are identical and bridged so basically ONE terminal:
	12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)		* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)
	6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again via a 30amp fuse)		* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)
	4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)		(you could use one of them to get a spare feed from starter battery if you needed it I suppose)
	2 - connected to your fridge 12V (if you want this feature) (again via a fuse)		* 6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again via a 30amp fuse)
			* 4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)
			* 2 - connected to your fridge 12V (if you want this feature) (again via a fuse) It goes dead when your engine is off.

	How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.		How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.

CovKid at 15:00, 1 June 2012

2012-06-01T15:00:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:00, 1 June 2012
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	Recently added for anyone who has one of these:		Recently added for anyone who has one of these:

			[[Image:splitkeys.jpg]]

	As Midlifecrisis explains:		As Midlifecrisis explains:

CovKid at 14:58, 1 June 2012

2012-06-01T14:58:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:58, 1 June 2012
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	That is the chap! similarly a 30A one from Halfords for a few quid is also fine!		That is the chap! similarly a 30A one from Halfords for a few quid is also fine!

			== Split charge 4 ==

			Recently added for anyone who has one of these:


			As Midlifecrisis explains:

			This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it doesn't need the signal wire from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).

			The terminals should be connected as follows (according to my instructions):

			12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)
			12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal (via a 30amp fuse)
			6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again via a 30amp fuse)
			4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)
			2 - connected to your fridge 12V (if you want this feature) (again via a fuse)

			How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.

			If you just want to charge the leisure battery, then I'd suggest that you could connect both pins 6 and 2 to the leisure battery - this way they will share the current load.

	-----------------		-----------------