Brakes Rear Backplate - Revision history

HarryMann at 14:48, 3 November 2025

2025-11-03T14:48:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:48, 3 November 2025
Line 86:		Line 86:
	Clean threads and free-up push/adjusting rod (auto adjuster rod/star adjuster), to give a freely spinning ratchet wheel and then fill tube with PH grease and lightly lubricate threads. NB. These threads are handed, the right-hand-side having a left-hand thread. {Copper-slip is often used as a substitute for Castrol PH lime-based grease}		Clean threads and free-up push/adjusting rod (auto adjuster rod/star adjuster), to give a freely spinning ratchet wheel and then fill tube with PH grease and lightly lubricate threads. NB. These threads are handed, the right-hand-side having a left-hand thread. {Copper-slip is often used as a substitute for Castrol PH lime-based grease}

	[[Image:~~Push_adjusting_rod~~.jpg]]		[[Image:Push_adjusting_rod_new.jpg]]

	== Refitting ==		== Refitting ==

	*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing\| Rear brake servicing; Goto 3rd section - ''Re-fitting those shoes and springs'']]		*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing\| Rear brake servicing; Goto 3rd section - ''Re-fitting those shoes and springs'']]

HarryMann at 14:47, 3 November 2025

2025-11-03T14:47:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:47, 3 November 2025
Line 37:		Line 37:


	[[Image:~~Backplate_new~~.jpg]]		[[Image:Backplate_new_new.jpg]]

	'''Simon Baxter:''' Well, for the price it's now worth arsing about with second hand.		'''Simon Baxter:''' Well, for the price it's now worth arsing about with second hand.

HarryMann at 14:46, 3 November 2025

2025-11-03T14:46:25Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:46, 3 November 2025
Line 68:		Line 68:
	Inspect the backplate for damage and decide if good, bad or ugly... The first two can be repaired, and refurbed. if it is holed here and there but substantially sound, a MIG welder can fill them in and sometimes rebuild small sections with beads of weld or in extremis, weld steel patches in, but not in keyareas that mate with shoes, springs or the bearing housing at the back.		Inspect the backplate for damage and decide if good, bad or ugly... The first two can be repaired, and refurbed. if it is holed here and there but substantially sound, a MIG welder can fill them in and sometimes rebuild small sections with beads of weld or in extremis, weld steel patches in, but not in keyareas that mate with shoes, springs or the bearing housing at the back.

	[[Image:~~Backplate_Welded~~.jpg]]		[[Image:Backplate_Welded_new.jpg]]

	== Refurbing (and MIG welding up holes)==		== Refurbing (and MIG welding up holes)==

HarryMann at 14:45, 3 November 2025

2025-11-03T14:45:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:45, 3 November 2025
Line 80:		Line 80:

	Here are my efforts, after a quick few thin coats of Weld-thru zinc primer. About an hour or so 'chipping' heavy rust flakes off, using a bearing scraper in those deep rim pressings [[General Engineering Scrapers]], just perfict! Clamp it down to a bench first and wear gogs...		Here are my efforts, after a quick few thin coats of Weld-thru zinc primer. About an hour or so 'chipping' heavy rust flakes off, using a bearing scraper in those deep rim pressings [[General Engineering Scrapers]], just perfict! Clamp it down to a bench first and wear gogs...
	[[Image:~~Backplate_Refurbed~~.jpg]]		[[Image:Backplate_Refurbed_new.jpg]]

	Quite a bit of MIGing, but the outer rims weren't ''totally'' rusted through, if they're really bad you'd need to be quite devoted to repair the whole thing, and better than me at welding too. Brazing would be a good option here, if you have gas. (MOT testers would fail a backplate with the rims rusted through, as not only do they provide a lot of stiffness, but prevent water ingress.		Quite a bit of MIGing, but the outer rims weren't ''totally'' rusted through, if they're really bad you'd need to be quite devoted to repair the whole thing, and better than me at welding too. Brazing would be a good option here, if you have gas. (MOT testers would fail a backplate with the rims rusted through, as not only do they provide a lot of stiffness, but prevent water ingress.

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:53:45Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:53, 25 July 2014
Line 11:		Line 11:
	'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''		'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''

	Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300 [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-brake-parts/t3-rear-brake-kit-complete.html]		Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300 It also includes the springs cups and pins that are missing from budget offerings from other suppliers [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-brake-parts/t3-rear-brake-kit-complete.html]

	Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better? If you decide to paint your back plates it may be an idea to mask off the dowel mounting poit and the handbrake cable holes as these are very tight fitting.		Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better? If you decide to paint your back plates it may be an idea to mask off the dowel mounting poit and the handbrake cable holes as these are very tight fitting.

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:51:36Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:51, 25 July 2014
Line 13:		Line 13:
	Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300 [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-brake-parts/t3-rear-brake-kit-complete.html]		Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300 [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-brake-parts/t3-rear-brake-kit-complete.html]

	Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?		Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better? If you decide to paint your back plates it may be an idea to mask off the dowel mounting poit and the handbrake cable holes as these are very tight fitting.

	'''other items you might need'''		'''other items you might need'''

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:49:58Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 25 July 2014
Line 11:		Line 11:
	'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''		'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''

	Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300		Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300 [http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-brake-parts/t3-rear-brake-kit-complete.html]

	Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?		Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:49:30Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 25 July 2014
Line 11:		Line 11:
	'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''		'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''

	Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300		Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, drums, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300

	Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?		Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:49:04Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 25 July 2014
Line 11:		Line 11:
	'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''		'''Some Fitting notes by Hacksawbob'''

	Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, shoes, dowels, lower mounting pivot points, brake cylinders all in the region of £300		Brickwerks supply a "Backplate kit" This includes the backplates, shoes, dowels, handbrake cables, lower mounting pivot points, lower locating pivots, brake cylinders all in the region of £300

	Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?		Here's what you need to know. The dowels don't come fitted. You will need to hammer them in or get them pressed in. It is awkward on a press without the right set up. The dowels have a chamfered end and a rounded end, general consensus is that it doesn't matter which way around they go. They should be flush on the inside of the lower pivot block though. It may be easier to fit the chamfered side into the backplate especially if you are hammering them in to get them straight. The kit doesn't come with the lower mounting M10X20mm bolts (X2 each side) , so you can reuse your own. If you are buying new you may need to source them from a specialist as they need to be 10.9 tensile strength or above. I fitted mine with 12.9 tensile strength hex cap socketed 30mm bolts and added some nuts the other side as belt and braces (also to keep the bolts clean the other side) however the bolts weren't long enough for the nylock bolts to engage so maybe 40mm might be better?

Hacksawbob: /* brickwerks kit */

2014-07-25T19:28:27Z

brickwerks kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:28, 25 July 2014
Line 17:		Line 17:
	'''other items you might need'''		'''other items you might need'''

	The kit doesn't come with hub nuts and split pins. If you are going to do this right (and after spending North of £300 you are the sort of person that likes to do it right!) If you are fitting this kit you '''WILL''' need to remove the hub nut. you will need a 46mm socket and a big breaker bar, or a 46mm smackable hub nut remover by EMPI [https://www.google.co.uk/#q=46mm+hub+nut+remover] about £11 from just kampers. These nuts are supposed to be done up to 500NM, a torque wrench for this would cost upwards of £300 so the smackable job works out cheap unless you can rent one! If you mark the hub nut and hub before you remove it, then count the number of turns before it comes free you will have a good idea of how much to put it on, so long as when you remove the wheel retaining part of the hub with the wheel bolts on it you don't move the wheel thereby changing the position of the starting thread (like I did!)Jed has a video on this here http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/ be very careful with the brake lines using this method, it is very easy to introduce kinks into the brake lines if you aren't!		The kit doesn't come with hub nuts and split pins. If you are going to do this right (and after spending North of £300 you are the sort of person that likes to do it right!) The hub nut is a use once item, although people do re-use while you are ordering your brake parts you make think about replacing the hub nuts and slit pins for new. If you are fitting this kit you '''WILL''' need to remove the hub nut. you will need a 46mm socket and a big breaker bar, or a 46mm smackable hub nut remover by EMPI [https://www.google.co.uk/#q=46mm+hub+nut+remover] about £11 from just kampers. These nuts are supposed to be done up to 500NM, a torque wrench for this would cost upwards of £300 so the smackable job works out cheap unless you can rent one! If you mark the hub nut and hub before you remove it, then count the number of turns before it comes free you will have a good idea of how much to put it on, so long as when you remove the wheel retaining part of the hub with the wheel bolts on it you don't move the wheel thereby changing the position of the starting thread (like I did!)Jed has a video on this here http://campervanculture.com/2011/07/jed-replaces-the-rear-wheel-bearing-on-his-t25-vanagon-syncro/ be very careful with the brake lines using this method, it is very easy to introduce kinks into the brake lines if you aren't!

	== Part Nos ==		== Part Nos ==