Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks - Revision history

CovKid: /* Additional photos */

2014-09-11T06:08:51Z

Additional photos

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:08, 11 September 2014
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	[[image:robsleak2.jpg]]		[[image:robsleak2.jpg]]

	Covkid helps the new screen and rubber bed in as Chickenkoop pulls the blue cord from inside vehicle.		Covkid helps the new screen and rubber bed in with very light taps with a rubber mallet along seal line, (you can use the flat of your hand but this can hurt after a while) as Chickenkoop pulls the blue cord from inside vehicle. Gowesty have subsequently posted a video on screen removal and replacement which you may find useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLn_wuu1LnQ

	[[image:robsleak3.jpg]]		[[image:robsleak3.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Additional photos */

2014-02-18T09:01:48Z

Additional photos

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:01, 18 February 2014
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	The above pic shows 1664's camper with a new OE seal fitted and on the right (for comparison) a short section of the JK seal he had fitted previously. The JK version bulges out like a bay seal - as if it has bad thyroid problems. It is also much harder to fit needing some kind of lubricant, beefy blokes and granny to make tea and send a strongly worded letter to JK. Some have also reported leaks after fitting them. If you're really not bothered about the look and like to faff around pointlessly for four hours, buy the cheaper copy.		The above pic shows 1664's camper with a new OE seal fitted and on the right (for comparison) a short section of the JK seal he had fitted previously. The JK version bulges out like a bay seal - as if it has bad thyroid problems. It is also much harder to fit needing some kind of lubricant, beefy blokes and granny to make tea and send a strongly worded letter to JK. Some have also reported leaks after fitting them. If you're really not bothered about the look and like to faff around pointlessly for four hours, buy the cheaper copy.

	http://www.volkswagenemporium.co.uk~~/type25parts.htm~~		http://www.volkswagenemporium.co.uk

	[[image:robsleak4.jpg]]		[[image:robsleak4.jpg]]

	It will now be left for a week to 'settle' (rubber trends to shift a bit as it gets used to being run into corners) and we'll apply black B&Q roofing sealant under the edge. It stays soft in areas not exposed to air and comes in gun cartridge format for about £3. With the nozzle snipped to create a small bead, you slip this under the rubber lip and apply all the way round. Any excess is easily removed with white spirit.		It will now be left for a week to 'settle' (rubber trends to shift a bit as it gets used to being run into corners) and we'll apply black B&Q roofing sealant under the edge. It stays soft in areas not exposed to air and comes in gun cartridge format for about £3. With the nozzle snipped to create a small bead, you slip this under the rubber lip and apply all the way round. Any excess is easily removed with white spirit.

CovKid: /* Additional photos */

2014-02-18T09:00:29Z

Additional photos

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:00, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:orjk.jpg]]		[[image:orjk.jpg]]

	The above pic shows 1664's camper with a new OE seal fitted and on the right (for comparison) a short section of the JK seal he had fitted previously. The JK version bulges out as if it has bad thyroid problems. It is also much harder to fit needing some kind of lubricant, ~~four~~ beefy blokes and granny to ~~makle~~ tea and send a strongly worded letter to JK. Some have also reported leaks after fitting them.		The above pic shows 1664's camper with a new OE seal fitted and on the right (for comparison) a short section of the JK seal he had fitted previously. The JK version bulges out like a bay seal - as if it has bad thyroid problems. It is also much harder to fit needing some kind of lubricant, beefy blokes and granny to make tea and send a strongly worded letter to JK. Some have also reported leaks after fitting them. If you're really not bothered about the look and like to faff around pointlessly for four hours, buy the cheaper copy.

	~~Covkids van (~~the ~~blue one above) used a genuine seal~~ and ~~chrome trim from VW Emporium:~~

	http://www.volkswagenemporium.co.uk/type25parts.htm		http://www.volkswagenemporium.co.uk/type25parts.htm

CovKid: /* Repairing */

2014-02-18T08:55:49Z

Repairing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:55, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]		[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]

	Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better (see photo below) - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but they lay flat ~~once~~ in ~~and~~ you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully). It makes no sense to fit a cheap copy on a repair like this~~. Think about it~~. The white van ~~below~~ will give you a better idea of what a copy looks like. Its not pretty.		Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better (see photo below) - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but they are massively different to cheap seals and lay flat - they go in easy too. Remember, you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully) so if the seal costs £20 more, so what. It makes no sense to fit a cheap copy on a repair like this. The white van further down this page will give you a better idea of what a copy looks like. Its not pretty - nor was it easy to fit. It took two big blokes and a lot of cussing.

	[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]		[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Repairing */

2014-02-18T08:52:31Z

Repairing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:52, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]		[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]

	Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better (see photo below) - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but they lay flat once in and you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully). It makes no sense to fit a cheap copy on a repair like this. Think about it.		Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better (see photo below) - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but they lay flat once in and you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully). It makes no sense to fit a cheap copy on a repair like this. Think about it. The white van below will give you a better idea of what a copy looks like. Its not pretty.

	[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]		[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Repairing */

2014-02-18T08:51:02Z

Repairing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:51, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]		[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]

	Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but as you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully)~~, it~~ makes ~~little~~ sense to fit a cheap copy. Think about it.		Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better (see photo below) - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but they lay flat once in and you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully). It makes no sense to fit a cheap copy on a repair like this. Think about it.

	[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]		[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Repairing */

2014-02-18T08:48:20Z

Repairing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:48, 18 February 2014
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	Firstly, you need to remove windscreen and rubber. You won't solve this with sealant. Its got to come out! This is easily accomplished by cutting out old rubber (carefully) with a stanley knife - you WILL be fitting a new rubber, won't you:)		Firstly, you need to remove windscreen and rubber. You won't solve this with sealant. Its got to come out! This is easily accomplished by cutting out old rubber (carefully) with a stanley knife - you WILL be fitting a new rubber, won't you:)

	Ideally, its better to do this job with the dash out, but on the basis that may scare some readers to death, this is how I attacked the job with dash still in. ~~You~~ MUST make some efforts to protect and reduce the chance of fire ~~though~~. Hot sparks from a grinder or welder '''WILL''' embed themselves in synthetic materials and burn stuff including plastic mouldings and seats so protect the interior with boards or metal sheets to stop hot metal from entering the interior or even causing a fire. The corners of the windscreen are directly above the footwells so pull back or remove carpet and ideally have an assistant to keep an eye on interior and move sheilds to suit. Disconnect battery.		Ideally, its better to do this job with the dash out, but on the basis that may scare some readers to death, this is how I attacked the job with dash still in. However, you MUST make some efforts to protect and reduce the chance of fire and interior damage from sparks. Hot sparks from a grinder or welder '''WILL''' embed themselves in synthetic materials and burn stuff including plastic mouldings and seats so protect the interior with boards or metal sheets to stop hot metal from entering the interior or even causing a fire. The corners of the windscreen are directly above the footwells too so pull back or remove carpet and ideally have an assistant to keep an eye on interior and move sheilds to suit. I strongly recommend you remove both front seats if you want to keep them as they are. Disconnect battery.

	The photo sequence below maps the processes involved, but understand that some vehicles have a greater or lesser degree of damage so you may not complete this in one day - depends how much patching/repairing is required. I had to rework some areas on the horizontal/flat plane as the steel was thin in places so ~~built it~~ up with weld then ground flat. Take all the time you need to rework the lip. Its easy to blow holes in it, but you can soon rebuild affected areas until the strength is restored.		The photo sequence below maps the processes involved, but understand that some vehicles will have a greater or lesser degree of damage so you may not complete this in one day. Be realistic. It all depends on how much patching/repairing is required. I had to rework some areas on the horizontal/flat plane as the steel was thin in places so patch in sections or else build up with weld then ground flat. Take all the time you need to rework the lip. Its easy to blow holes in some areas, but you can soon rebuild affected areas until the strength is restored.

	I used thicker steel when butting in new pieces simply because the lip is a seam and therefore double thickness. Those areas that only had marginal corrosion were simply ground down as much as was needed to actually reach shiney steel and then built up bit by bit with weld then ground back again to achieve desired depth and thickness. The trouble with weld is that its always harder than mild steel so takes an age to get flat again, but certainly a stronger piece of metal in those corners now and almost as good as new.		I used thicker steel when butting in new pieces simply because the lip is a seam and therefore double thickness. Those areas that only had marginal corrosion were simply ground down as much as was needed to actually reach shiney steel and then built up bit by bit with weld then ground back again to achieve desired depth and thickness. The trouble with weld is that its always harder than mild steel so takes an age to get flat again, but certainly a stronger piece of metal in those corners now and almost as good as new.

	Once screen was back in - and I did this single handed using nylon platted ~~washinmg~~ line from local pound shop (about 1/4" thick), I also ran a bead of cheap gutter sealant under the rubber lip them wiped off excess with white spirit~~. It is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit better~~ - VW ~~Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but as you~~'~~ll only~~ be ~~doing this job once (hopefully), it makes little sense to fit a cheap copy. Think about it~~.		Once screen was back in - and I did this single handed using nylon platted washing line from local pound shop (about 1/4" thick and perfect for the job). I also ran a bead of cheap gutter sealant under the rubber lip them wiped off excess with white spirit - had VW done something similar, we wouldn't be here now.

	[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]		[[image:Windowliprepair.jpg]]

	~~Once screen was back in -~~ and I ~~did~~ this ~~single handed using nylon platted washing line from my local pound shop~~ (~~about 1/4" thick~~), ~~I also ran~~ a ~~bead of~~ cheap ~~gutter/roofing sealant (under £3) under the rubber lip them wiped off excess with white spirit~~. ~~It is now fixed and absolutely watertight. Arguably it is now better sealed than~~ it ~~was from new~~.		Anyway, it is now fixed and absolutely watertight. I strongly recommend you source a genuine VW seal if you can get one as they fit AND look better - VW Emporium do them. They may cost a little more but as you'll only be doing this job once (hopefully), it makes little sense to fit a cheap copy. Think about it.

	[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]		[[image:sealbackin.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Repairing */

2014-02-18T08:42:28Z

Repairing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:42, 18 February 2014
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	==Repairing==		==Repairing==

	Firstly, you need to remove windscreen and rubber. Its got to come out! This is easily accomplished by cutting out old rubber (carefully) with a stanley knife - you WILL be fitting a new rubber, won't you:)		Firstly, you need to remove windscreen and rubber. You won't solve this with sealant. Its got to come out! This is easily accomplished by cutting out old rubber (carefully) with a stanley knife - you WILL be fitting a new rubber, won't you:)

	Ideally, its better to do this job with the dash out, but on the basis that may scare some readers to death, this is how I attacked the job with dash still in. You MUST make some efforts to protect and reduce the chance of fire though. Hot sparks from a grinder or welder '''WILL''' embed themselves in synthetic materials and burn stuff including plastic mouldings and seats so protect the interior with boards or metal sheets to stop hot metal from entering the interior or even causing a fire. The corners of the windscreen are directly above the footwells so pull back or remove carpet and ideally have an assistant to keep an eye on interior and move sheilds to suit. Disconnect battery.		Ideally, its better to do this job with the dash out, but on the basis that may scare some readers to death, this is how I attacked the job with dash still in. You MUST make some efforts to protect and reduce the chance of fire though. Hot sparks from a grinder or welder '''WILL''' embed themselves in synthetic materials and burn stuff including plastic mouldings and seats so protect the interior with boards or metal sheets to stop hot metal from entering the interior or even causing a fire. The corners of the windscreen are directly above the footwells so pull back or remove carpet and ideally have an assistant to keep an eye on interior and move sheilds to suit. Disconnect battery.

CovKid: /* Cause And Remedy */

2014-02-18T08:41:21Z

Cause And Remedy

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:41, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:windowlipclean.jpg]]		[[image:windowlipclean.jpg]]

	VW decided not to use any windscreen sealant, relying solely on the rubber to shrug off the weather like the earlier v-dubs. OK in California and it worked fine for a few years even here in wet and windy Britain. Unfortunately, if the windscreen has not been out since the vehicle was made, time has already taken its toll with the rubber no longer providing a seal and has been letting in water at the top for some years. It will now look more like this at the bottom:		VW decided not to use any windscreen sealant, relying solely on the rubber to shrug off the weather like the earlier v-dubs. OK in California and it worked fine for a few years even here in wet and windy Britain. Unfortunately, if the windscreen has not been out since the vehicle was made, time has already taken its toll with the rubber no longer providing a seal and it has been letting in water at the top without your knowledge for some years. Worse, it doesn't show until things are much worse. With the screen out, it will now look more like this at the bottom:

	[[image:Wcorner.jpg]]		[[image:Wcorner.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Cause And Remedy */

2014-02-18T08:39:15Z

Cause And Remedy

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:39, 18 February 2014
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	[[image:windowlipclean.jpg]]		[[image:windowlipclean.jpg]]

	VW decided not to use any windscreen sealant, relying solely on the rubber to shrug off the weather like the earlier v-dubs. OK in California and it worked fine for a few years even in wet and windy Britain~~, but unfortunately~~, if the windscreen has not been out since the vehicle was made, time has taken its toll, the rubber is no longer providing a seal, letting in water at the top ~~and looking~~ more like this at the bottom:		VW decided not to use any windscreen sealant, relying solely on the rubber to shrug off the weather like the earlier v-dubs. OK in California and it worked fine for a few years even here in wet and windy Britain. Unfortunately, if the windscreen has not been out since the vehicle was made, time has already taken its toll with the rubber no longer providing a seal and has been letting in water at the top for some years. It will now look more like this at the bottom:

	[[image:Wcorner.jpg]]		[[image:Wcorner.jpg]]