https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?action=history&feed=atom&title=All_engine_faults%2Frepairs%2Fmaintenance_Stripped_sparkplug_thread 2026-04-05T17:25:09Z Revision history for this page on the wiki MediaWiki 1.44.2 https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Stripped_sparkplug_thread&diff=5367&oldid=prev 2007-04-18T08:32:54Z

<p></p> <table style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122;" data-mw="interface"> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <col class="diff-marker" /> <col class="diff-content" /> <tr class="diff-title" lang="en"> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td> <td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 08:32, 18 April 2007</td> </tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l1">Line 1:</td> <td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 1:</td></tr> <tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>  Stripped sparkplug thread</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>  Stripped sparkplug thread</div></td></tr> <tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr> <tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>A timecert or helicoil can be a  cheap option as it is possible to put it in situ, however there is possiblity that fitting may result in swarf falling into cylinder. Can reduce chance of this by rotating engine so both inlet and exhaust valves are open then attatching compressed air to carburettor and hopefully blowing swarf out through exhaust valve. Best to take head off  and do it proper. <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Syncronuts </del>put a timecert into my (<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">emgine</del>) head. They are better than helicoil as they are solid, helicoils are like a spring and will probably let you down one day, maybe just before you go on holiday as is what happened to me. Aircooled engine is more awkward to get to <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">sprk </del>plug hole under the <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">tiware </del>as well.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>A timecert or helicoil can be a  cheap option as it is possible to put it in situ, however there is possiblity that fitting may result in swarf falling into cylinder. Can reduce chance of this by rotating engine so both inlet and exhaust valves are open then attatching compressed air to carburettor and hopefully blowing swarf out through exhaust valve. Best to take head off  and do it proper. <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Syncro-Nutz </ins>put a timecert into my (<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">engine</ins>) head. They are better than helicoil as they are solid, helicoils are like a spring and will probably let you down one day, maybe just before you go on holiday as is what happened to me <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[properly specified and fitted and inserted helicoils are normally fine in most applications - been used for many years - Ed]</ins>. Aircooled engine is more awkward to get to <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">spark </ins>plug hole under the <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">tinware </ins>as well.</div></td></tr> </table>

HarryMann https://club8090.co.uk/w/index.php?title=All_engine_faults/repairs/maintenance_Stripped_sparkplug_thread&diff=5026&oldid=prev 2007-01-30T15:06:37Z

<p></p> <p><b>New page</b></p><div> Stripped sparkplug thread<br /> <br /> A timecert or helicoil can be a cheap option as it is possible to put it in situ, however there is possiblity that fitting may result in swarf falling into cylinder. Can reduce chance of this by rotating engine so both inlet and exhaust valves are open then attatching compressed air to carburettor and hopefully blowing swarf out through exhaust valve. Best to take head off and do it proper. Syncronuts put a timecert into my (emgine) head. They are better than helicoil as they are solid, helicoils are like a spring and will probably let you down one day, maybe just before you go on holiday as is what happened to me. Aircooled engine is more awkward to get to sprk plug hole under the tiware as well.</div>

HarryMann