All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended - Revision history

CovKid: /* How Often Should I Change My Oil? */

2018-05-15T11:05:53Z

How Often Should I Change My Oil?

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:05, 15 May 2018
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	==How Often Should I Change My Oil?==		==How Often Should I Change My Oil?==

	Well, it depends. The flat four aircooled engine needed changing (ideally) every 3000 miles but as well as running at a higher temperature compared to the watercooled~~, it also lacked the luxury of an oil filter~~. The oil change frequency was therefore extended slightly on later engines. CovKid drives a watercooled 1.9DG petrol and covers around 12k miles a year, changing the oil twice a year. However, if for any reason it looks black or somewhat thin, you should bring the oil change forward. The recommended minimum for oil changes is every 6,000 miles or six months - whichever comes sooner.		Well, it depends. The flat four aircooled engine needed changing (ideally) every 3000 miles but as well as running at a higher temperature compared to the watercooled. The oil change frequency was therefore extended slightly on later engines. CovKid drives a watercooled 1.9DG petrol and covers around 12k miles a year, changing the oil twice a year. However, if for any reason it looks black or somewhat thin, you should bring the oil change forward. The recommended minimum for oil changes is every 6,000 miles or six months - whichever comes sooner.

	==Numbers - What Do They Mean?==		==Numbers - What Do They Mean?==

CovKid: /* Other */

2015-09-18T17:19:27Z

Other

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:19, 18 September 2015
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	==Other==		==Other==

			But in some cases its much easier to post this pic:


			[[File:Whatoil.gif]]

CovKid: /* Good links */

2015-09-18T17:18:48Z

Good links

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:18, 18 September 2015
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	[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended\| Oil filters and recommendations ]]		[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended\| Oil filters and recommendations ]]

	~~But if anyone asks "what oil?" how about:~~

	~~[[File:Whatoil.gif]]~~

	==Other==		==Other==

CovKid: /* Good links */

2015-09-18T17:18:04Z

Good links

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:18, 18 September 2015
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	[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended\| Oil filters and recommendations ]]		[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended\| Oil filters and recommendations ]]

			But if anyone asks "what oil?" how about:

			[[File:Whatoil.gif]]

	==Other==		==Other==

CovKid: /* General */

2015-04-13T00:33:10Z

General

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:33, 13 April 2015
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	==General==		==General==

	''This page put together by CovKid and California ~~Dreaming~~ - both with years of professional experience servicing ~~VWs~~.''		'''This page put together by CovKid and California Dreamin - both with years of professional experience servicing VW's.'''

	Now, you're either browsing the WIKI because you're curious as to "what oil" you should use, or more likely, you've been sent here because you're the six millionth person that has asked "What oil?"		Now, you're either browsing the WIKI because you're curious as to "what oil" you should use, or more likely, you've been sent here because you're the six millionth person that has asked "What oil?"

	Engine oil has perhaps been the most talked about subject on 80/90 - frequently the most neglected and often the least understood aspect of servicing ~~ans~~ maintenance. Worse, the choices made are sometimes based on little more than myth, and threads frequently surface arguing the case for one oil over another, so we've decided to create a more extended and detailed WIKI section for engine oil with answers to the most common questions. California Dreaming is a time-served VW engineer and Covkid has worked on VWs for some 25 years including building race-spec VW engines but whilst we both came from different ends of the business, remarkably we both agree on the information provided here.		Engine oil has perhaps been the most talked about subject on 80/90 - frequently the most neglected and often the least understood aspect of servicing and maintenance. Worse, the choices made are sometimes based on little more than myth, and threads frequently surface arguing the case for one oil over another, so we've decided to create a more extended and detailed WIKI section for engine oil with answers to the most common questions. California Dreaming is a time-served VW engineer and Covkid has worked on VWs for some 25 years including building race-spec VW engines but whilst we both came from different ends of the business, remarkably we both agree on the information provided here.

	This page is for stock engines found in the T25 range and the recommended grades for each although the information also applies to the T25's ancestors - the Type 1 (bug) and Type 2 (bay/splitty). We do not recommend 'makes' of oil as that is not actually of much relevance - nor should you pester other 80/90 members to find out what they use. Everything you need to know is here - make your own choice as to brand. If you just need a quick answer without too much brainstorming, skip down to the Petrol or Diesel sections and the suggested grades are there!		This page is for stock engines found in the T25 range and the recommended grades for each although the information also applies to the T25's ancestors - the Type 1 (bug) and Type 2 (bay/splitty). We do not recommend 'makes' of oil as that is not actually of much relevance - nor should you pester other 80/90 members to find out what they use. Everything you need to know is here - make your own choice as to brand. If you just need a quick answer without too much brainstorming, skip down to the Petrol or Diesel sections and the suggested grades are there!

CovKid: /* Diesels */

2014-10-13T22:17:25Z

Diesels

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	'''Diesel Engined variants ALL: 1.6/1.6TD/1.7 & 1.9D/TD modified'''		'''Diesel Engined variants ALL: 1.6/1.6TD/1.7 & 1.9D/TD modified'''

	This is another TOPIC FOR DEBATE as almost all 'normal' engine oils state on their labeling, quote: (ALSO SUITABLE FOR DIESEL AND TURBO DIESEL ENGINES) whilst these oils will ~~do little harm in the short term~~ the WIKI is about recommending the most ~~ideal~~ products so that means buying an oil that is 'primarily' for Diesel engines.		This is another TOPIC FOR DEBATE as almost all 'normal' engine oils state on their labeling, quote: (ALSO SUITABLE FOR DIESEL AND TURBO DIESEL ENGINES) whilst these oils will perform adequately the WIKI is about recommending the most suitable products so that means buying an oil that is 'primarily' for Diesel engines.

	Quote directly from the MILLERS OILS website '''Simply asks the question'''		Quote directly from the MILLERS OILS website '''Simply asks the question'''
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	1z TDI - 4.5 litres with the filter		1z TDI - 4.5 litres with the filter


	==Technical Specs Explained==		==Technical Specs Explained==

CovKid: /* Numbers - What Do They Mean? */

2014-10-13T22:12:34Z

Numbers - What Do They Mean?

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:12, 13 October 2014
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	This difference in operating temperatures of engines, spawned the development of multigrade oils and removed the high demand for various specific grades, resulting in a largely 'one size fits all' approach to engine oils. Basically, multigrade engine oil numbers denote the cold and hot viscosity either side of the 'W' so 15W40 oil would perform like a 15 rated oil from cold and like a 40 when hot.		This difference in operating temperatures of engines, spawned the development of multigrade oils and removed the high demand for various specific grades, resulting in a largely 'one size fits all' approach to engine oils. Basically, multigrade engine oil numbers denote the cold and hot viscosity either side of the 'W' so 15W40 oil would perform like a 15 rated oil from cold and like a 40 when hot.

			'''Straight forward explanation of the two numbers that make up an engine oil designation:'''

			First number represents the thickness/weight (viscosity) of the oil at 0 degrees F
			Second number represents the thickness/weight (viscosity) at 210 degrees F
			The designation compares the oils behavior to how different weight 'monogrades' would behave under the same tests.
			So: 15W40
			At 0 degrees F this oil behaves like a 15 weight 'monograde oil'
			And at 210 degrees F the same oil behaves like a 40 weight 'monograde oil' at the same temperature.

			Hence why 'modern oils' are classed as 'Multigrades' (one oil that behaves like two viscosity's)

			The actual measurement was originally designed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE for short) the machine they used was called a (Redwood Viscometer) This device used a pre-set sized hole by which the 'rate of flow' of the oil was measured at the two temperatures mentioned above.

			W was just a designation that was given to all mutigrades to signify their suitability for Winter use (bearing in mind that up until their introduction users were faced with twice yearly oil changes using basic monograde products).


	[[Image:frozenbug.jpg]]		[[Image:frozenbug.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Oil Types And Other Thoughts */

2014-05-14T23:21:42Z

Oil Types And Other Thoughts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:21, 14 May 2014
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	You can find good quality oil that meets and more often than not, exceeds VW T25 original spec from some supermarket outlets these days (LIDL for instance) and often, petrol forecourts have limited offers on engine oil. As has been pointed out by other 80/90 members, cheap oils can be absolutely fine but oil is an expensive commodity and they are not, or rarely, premium fandango brands disguised in a budget container. By the same token, it does not follow that spending £40 on a can of oil promising the earth is going to be far superior in a T25 than the can you saw priced at £15 either. The VW flat four is a fairly low-revving engine and an oil better suited to a high-revving race engine is probably wasted on the VW engine even if it makes the owner feel better. It would however be wise to steer clear of containers that provide very little information at all, but certainly don't rule out an oil simply because it is cheap or assume that the more it costs, the longer your engine will last or the faster it will go. Read the label, and if it seems reasonably good, go by your instincts.		You can find good quality oil that meets and more often than not, exceeds VW T25 original spec from some supermarket outlets these days (LIDL for instance) and often, petrol forecourts have limited offers on engine oil. As has been pointed out by other 80/90 members, cheap oils can be absolutely fine but oil is an expensive commodity and they are not, or rarely, premium fandango brands disguised in a budget container. By the same token, it does not follow that spending £40 on a can of oil promising the earth is going to be far superior in a T25 than the can you saw priced at £15 either. The VW flat four is a fairly low-revving engine and an oil better suited to a high-revving race engine is probably wasted on the VW engine even if it makes the owner feel better. It would however be wise to steer clear of containers that provide very little information at all, but certainly don't rule out an oil simply because it is cheap or assume that the more it costs, the longer your engine will last or the faster it will go. Read the label, and if it seems reasonably good, go by your instincts.

	As mentioned earlier, the concensus on 80/90 is that good old fashioned mineral oil is the safest choice, particularly if the engine has done many miles. Mineral oils are, as the name implies, based on oil extracted from beneath our feet, and refined. Synthetic oil (you could see it as a 'designer' oil if you like) is manufactured from various chemicals, although by and large, most of the ingredients do in fact derive from mineral based oil products. The molecular particles are much more even with synthetic oil which is why (technically) it has better heat transfer properties but as noted above, some have experienced minor oil leaks on both water and aircooled VW engines with synthetic oil, only cured by going back to mineral. The other type is semi-synthetic - a mix of the two. Further links are provided in the footer if you wish to explore synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in more depth. Note* 15W40 can be found as a semi synthetic and could be a good choice for those wanting the added protection offered without going down the 'thinner oil' route that may bring on the noisy 'tappet syndrome' that these engines occasionally suffer from, although perhaps to be avoided if yours already marks it's territory lol.		As mentioned earlier, the concensus on 80/90 is that good old fashioned mineral oil is the safest choice, particularly if the engine has done many miles. Mineral oils are, as the name implies, based on oil extracted from beneath our feet, and refined. Synthetic oil (you could see it as a 'designer' oil if you like) is manufactured from various chemicals, although by and large, most of the ingredients do in fact derive from mineral based oil products. The molecular particles are much more even with synthetic oil which is why (technically) it has better heat transfer properties but as noted above, some have experienced minor oil leaks on both water and aircooled VW engines with synthetic oil, only cured by going back to mineral. The other type is semi-synthetic - a mix of the two. Further links are provided in the footer if you wish to explore synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in more depth. Note* 15W40 can be found as a semi synthetic and could be a good choice for those wanting the added protection offered without going down the 'thinner oil' route that may bring on the noisy 'tappet syndrome' that these engines occasionally suffer from, although perhaps to be avoided if yours already marks it's territory lol. You may get on fine with synthetic, but note the remarks on the potential for oil leaks. Some have no issues with leaks, some do. Its your engine, your choice.

	==Petrols==		==Petrols==

CovKid: /* Oil Types And Other Thoughts */

2014-05-14T23:17:36Z

Oil Types And Other Thoughts

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:17, 14 May 2014
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	[[Image:oildrilling.jpg]]		[[Image:oildrilling.jpg]]

	You can find good quality oil that meets and more often than not, exceeds VW T25 original spec from some supermarket outlets these days and often, petrol forecourts have limited offers on engine oil. As has been pointed out by other 80/90 members, cheap oils can be absolutely fine but oil is an expensive commodity and they are not, or rarely, premium fandango brands disguised in a budget container. By the same token, it does not follow that spending £40 on a can of oil promising the earth is going to be far superior in a T25 than the can you ~~source~~ priced at £15 either. The VW flat four is a fairly low-revving engine and an oil better suited to a high-revving race engine is probably wasted on the VW engine even if it makes the owner feel better. It would however be wise to steer clear of containers that provide very little information at all, but certainly don't rule out an oil simply because it is cheap or assume that the more it costs, the longer your engine will last or the faster it will go. Read the label, and if it seems reasonably good, go by your instincts.		You can find good quality oil that meets and more often than not, exceeds VW T25 original spec from some supermarket outlets these days (LIDL for instance) and often, petrol forecourts have limited offers on engine oil. As has been pointed out by other 80/90 members, cheap oils can be absolutely fine but oil is an expensive commodity and they are not, or rarely, premium fandango brands disguised in a budget container. By the same token, it does not follow that spending £40 on a can of oil promising the earth is going to be far superior in a T25 than the can you saw priced at £15 either. The VW flat four is a fairly low-revving engine and an oil better suited to a high-revving race engine is probably wasted on the VW engine even if it makes the owner feel better. It would however be wise to steer clear of containers that provide very little information at all, but certainly don't rule out an oil simply because it is cheap or assume that the more it costs, the longer your engine will last or the faster it will go. Read the label, and if it seems reasonably good, go by your instincts.

	As mentioned earlier, the concensus on 80/90 is that good old fashioned mineral oil is the safest choice, particularly if the engine has done many miles. Mineral oils are, as the name implies, based on oil extracted from beneath our feet, and refined. Synthetic oil (you could see it as a 'designer' oil if you like) is manufactured from various chemicals, although by and large, most of the ingredients do in fact derive from mineral based oil products. The molecular particles are much more even with synthetic oil which is why (technically) it has better heat transfer properties but as noted above, some have experienced minor oil leaks on both water and aircooled VW engines with synthetic oil, only cured by going back to mineral. The other type is semi-synthetic - a mix of the two. Further links are provided in the footer if you wish to explore synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in more depth. Note* 15W40 can be found as a semi synthetic and could be a good choice for those wanting the added protection offered without going down the 'thinner oil' route that may bring on the noisy 'tappet syndrome' that these engines occasionally suffer from, although perhaps to be avoided if yours already marks it's territory lol.		As mentioned earlier, the concensus on 80/90 is that good old fashioned mineral oil is the safest choice, particularly if the engine has done many miles. Mineral oils are, as the name implies, based on oil extracted from beneath our feet, and refined. Synthetic oil (you could see it as a 'designer' oil if you like) is manufactured from various chemicals, although by and large, most of the ingredients do in fact derive from mineral based oil products. The molecular particles are much more even with synthetic oil which is why (technically) it has better heat transfer properties but as noted above, some have experienced minor oil leaks on both water and aircooled VW engines with synthetic oil, only cured by going back to mineral. The other type is semi-synthetic - a mix of the two. Further links are provided in the footer if you wish to explore synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in more depth. Note* 15W40 can be found as a semi synthetic and could be a good choice for those wanting the added protection offered without going down the 'thinner oil' route that may bring on the noisy 'tappet syndrome' that these engines occasionally suffer from, although perhaps to be avoided if yours already marks it's territory lol.

CovKid: /* Petrols */

2014-05-14T23:06:10Z

Petrols

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:06, 14 May 2014
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	'''1.9, 2.1, 2.0 etc:'''		'''1.9, 2.1, 2.0 etc:'''

	Contrary to URBAN MYTH monograde oils are not the best for aircooled variants and were never used by volkswagen dealerships when servicing T25's/T3.		Contrary to URBAN MYTH monograde oils are not the best for aircooled variants and were '''never''' used by volkswagen dealerships when servicing T25's/T3.

	The specified oil recommended is SAE 15W/40 multigrade Mineral for petrol engines (although VW's service chart does show several variations dependant upon climate) - You won't go far wrong sticking to that. 15W50 would also be a good choice - particularly for aircooled engines which can run hotter. Change every six months or 6,000 miles MAX - whichever comes sooner.		The specified oil recommended is SAE 15W/40 multigrade Mineral for petrol engines (although VW's service chart does show several variations dependant upon climate) - You won't go far wrong sticking to that. 15W50 would also be a good choice - particularly for aircooled engines which can run hotter. Change every six months or 6,000 miles MAX - whichever comes sooner.