All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Engine bay seal - Revision history

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2014-05-23T23:19:18Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:19, 23 May 2014
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	(check for current prices)		(check for current prices)
	http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk~~/bbCMS~~/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=~~68#23~~ (last seal on page)		http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=71 (last seal on page)

	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T19:05:13Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:05, 19 April 2011
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	==Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled==		==Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled==

			Contributed by Covkid

	Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.		Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.
Line 10:		Line 12:
	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

	Whilst clearly different from the original (purists look away), it will certainly do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos). You will need four (yes four!) metres to go around the engine lip.		Whilst clearly different from the original (purists look away), it will certainly do the job even if it lacks some of the flexibility of the original. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos). You will need four (yes four!) metres to go around the engine lip.

	[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]		[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T19:03:08Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:03, 19 April 2011
Line 3:		Line 3:
	Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.		Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.

	Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 from Seals Direct (seal ETS1395):		Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100+ in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 from Seals Direct (seal ETS1395):

	(check for current prices)		(check for current prices)
Line 10:		Line 10:
	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

	Whilst different from the original, it will do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos). You will need four (yes four!) metres to go around the engine lip.		Whilst clearly different from the original (purists look away), it will certainly do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos). You will need four (yes four!) metres to go around the engine lip.

	[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]		[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T19:00:33Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:00, 19 April 2011
Line 10:		Line 10:
	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

	Whilst different from the original, it will do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos. You will need 4 metres to go around the engine lip.		Whilst different from the original, it will do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos). You will need four (yes four!) metres to go around the engine lip.


	[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]		[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:59:04Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:59, 19 April 2011
Line 3:		Line 3:
	Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.		Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.

	Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 (seal ETS1395):		Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 from Seals Direct (seal ETS1395):

	~~Sealsdirect.co.uk make this stuff~~ (check for current prices)		(check for current prices)
	http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68#23 (last seal on page)		http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68#23 (last seal on page)

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:58:16Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:58, 19 April 2011
Line 1:		Line 1:
	==Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled==		==Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled==

	Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting. Do not confuse this with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.		Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting and spark plug rubber grommets should be there - it all helps keep the temperature within tolerance and helps prolong the life of your engine. Do not confuse this seal with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.

	Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 (seal ETS1395):		Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 (seal ETS1395):

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:56:35Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:56, 19 April 2011
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	[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]		[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]

			And here it is installed

			[[File:sealinsitu.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:47:31Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:47, 19 April 2011
Line 10:		Line 10:
	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

	~~Here~~ is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos. You will need 4 metres to go around the engine lip.		Whilst different from the original, it will do the job. Next photo is the original alongside the one from seals direct (thanks to member 'A Kirk' for photos. You will need 4 metres to go around the engine lip.


	[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]		[[File:sealcompare.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:46:33Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:46, 19 April 2011
Line 6:		Line 6:

	Sealsdirect.co.uk make this stuff (check for current prices)		Sealsdirect.co.uk make this stuff (check for current prices)
			http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68#23 (last seal on page)

	[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]		[[File:sealsdirectbay.jpg]]

CovKid: /* Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled */

2011-04-19T18:46:08Z

Replacing Engine tinware seal - aircooled

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:46, 19 April 2011
Line 3:		Line 3:
	Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting. Do not confuse this with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.		Its important with the aircooled engine to have an adequate seal between the top half of engine bay to reduce heat generated by the exhaust. Likewise there should be no leaks in the ducting. Do not confuse this with the seal directly under the engine lid which has a square profile.

	Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25:		Given that the proper tinware seal is around £100 in some places (and the T2 seal much smaller and different in profile), here is an alternative for around £25 (seal ETS1395):

	Sealsdirect.co.uk make this stuff (check for current prices)		Sealsdirect.co.uk make this stuff (check for current prices)