View source for Camping interior fridge servicing/Maintenance

==Westfalia fridge service==

'''LHD:''' This is a guide to servicing a Westfalia fridge, which does not include replacing faulty parts that are not servicable 

If electrical probs, it could be the elements 12v, 240v or both...

My 240v worked when I got my van but the 12v was poor.

When the 240v stopped working I decided to replace both elements at around £70.

It now produces ice on 12v and the 240v is even better,well worth the investment.

It actually gets colder now than my fridge at home.  

If the fridge is not working on 12v or staying on when the engine is not running (thus draining the battery) the 12v relay must be investigated - this can be replaced with an original relay used by Westfalia (I think) for about £7 from Gunzle [http://www.vwbusshop.de Gunzle], or a similar 12v relay can be purchased from many motor shops, Ebay, Maplin etc

While you have the fridge removed from situ give the jet a clean or replace at around (£15), ''if doing so make sure you re-fit the burner shroud properly with the holes facing upwards''.

A main reason for poor ignition is the ignitor/sparker - make sure this is not loose or corroded.

I would set mine at the correct position only for it to work loose after a month or two.

It would always slowly move out of the optimum position due to the vibration whilst driving and so causing poor ignition.
The igniter/sparker can be bought new for around £15.

To get the parts give Ashbridge Domestic a call [http://www.ashbridgedomestic.co.uk/page1000.aspx Ashbridge domestic]

Make sure you give them the model No. and product No. which should be on the silver sticker inside your fridge.


Also the exhaust should be fixed securely to the heat exchanger pipe and should not move.

On mine the weld had broken so the exhaust had slipped over the heat exchanger causing poor oxygenation, which was the reason the fridge was so inefficient on gas and would blow out whilst driving.

A small tack weld cured this and now I can drive on the motorway without the flame going out.
Before anyone winges it does say in the Westy manual that you can use the fridge on gas whilst driving.

Some think this is not a great idea and I can see why. 

Another reason it could have been going out was due to the outside vent cover being cracked around the screws,purchased for £15 via Gunzle at Vanfest.  


While I was at it I replaced the insulation around the heat exchanger with some stuff they were removing from work(basically fire proof rockwool),do make sure it's fire proof then pack it as tight as possible into the heat exchanger insulation shroud.
You could also relace the fan with a 12v computer one.

You can see how this is done by visiting the Go westy site as they have a kit for sale, but you can then get the gist of how it's fitted and do it yourself. [http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=3470&category_id=204 GoWesty 120mm 12V fan kit]

You should also check the condition of the fridge door seal as this will also cause the fridge to cool inefficienty, again supplied by Gunzle, maybe even Ashbridge domestic. 

If the fan is inoperatve, it could be the temperature switch which is secured by two small scews to the cooling fins on the back of the fridge. I would imagine that the values of this switch are printed on it some where. It can be tested by connecting to the 12v circuit and using a hair dryer on hot to make sure it operates correctly.


Obviuosly it goes without saying that the rear of the fridge, especially the cooling fins should be dusted off to aid cooling.

Apparently there is cotton wool type filter in the gas piping just before it connects to the fridge, which can be replaced.
I never could locate it (probably because it's missing).

Beware when filling an underslung tank (ALWAYS) make sure that the gas tank supply valve is turned off. Due to these tanks being quite old they have a certain amount of muck inside them.
Because of the high pressure used whilst filling, it will blow all sorts of muck into your gas lines, usually blocking your jet (especially if you can't locate your filter). This results in a blocked jet and removal of appliance to clean it out.

Another thing to remember is that the main union that connects the gas pipework to the fridge is a left hand thread, i.e.  clockwise rotation to undo.

This is about as a comprehensive service I can think of, but I'm sure someone could add to it though.  

Rob

==Inspecting the pilot thermocouple==

'''toolsntat:''' How to take out a fridge and inspect the thermo-couple end..

Remove setting knob by pulling off and unscrew grill

[[File:camperfridge003.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge004.jpg]]

Undo the coupling using 2 spanners

[[File:camperfridge005.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge006.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge007.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge008.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge009.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge010.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge013.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge014.jpg]]

[[File:camperfridge015.jpg]]

Carefully remove the perforated shield, cover burner and clean off any soot

[[File:camperfridge017.jpg]]

[http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d128/toolsntat/camper/camper fridge/?action=view&current=camperfridge027.flv Link to flash video checking spark generation]

Vent elbow and airflow vane


[[File:camperfridge017.jpg]]

Flexi duct pipe for vent

[[File:camperfridge021.jpg]]

remove rear vent

[[File:camperfridge022.jpg]]

Bit of a tight fit but just manage to ensure the flue is connected

[[File:camperfridge023.jpg]]

All being well thats it.

Andy

==Other Camper Fridge topics==

==Links on Fridge Maintenance==