VW T25(T3)-Tech - User contributions [en]

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2009-06-07T19:40:26Z

VWlewis:

[http://aulich24.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=121&osCsid=3abdee400ba76266703e46dd8b65751e| Dash lights from German supplier]

You could also get some blue LEDs and some 470ohm resistors and make your own.

------------------------------------------

286 wedge style 12v LED bulbs are also widely available on ebay

You could also upgrade your existing holders to take 12v LED bulbs like I did

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/dash_led.html

'''VW Lewis'''

[[LED Technical Resource]]

I found this technical information on the use of LEDs - an excellent resource!

http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html

'''NEW:''' This webpage provides a very easy way to calculate the resistor size for any LED and drive voltage.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Main Page

2008-03-07T14:37:52Z

VWlewis: /* Interior (non camping) */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

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'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

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----

= New/Prospective Owners=
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp | VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines ==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fuel lines fire warning| Fuel lines fire warning]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems| Vac advance/retard problems]]

==Aircooled==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature| Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled tinware| Aircooled tinware]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|engine removal]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Ignition timing - distributors, setting up]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|spark plugs]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Carburrettors

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|cylinder head spark plug numbers]]
* [[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines compression testing| Compression testing]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]

== Diesel engines ==
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Intro and diagnosis]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
* [[Diesel Engines - Turbo|Turbo]]
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
** [[Parts - Cylinder heads|Cylinder heads]]
** [[Parts - Piston damage|Piston damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Part Nos]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft]]
** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters recomended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]

----

==Exhausts==
*[[Exhausts|Exhausts]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*Injectors
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plug replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]

==Petrol==

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel System MPG|MPG]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Coolant==
* [[Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash|flashing red light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands| Recommended brands]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]

==Heating==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|Heater blower replacement]]
* [[Heating - Insulating heater hoses|Insulating heater hoses]]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic recommended Oil|Recommended oil]]

==Manual specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|clutch slave replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance| Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch pedal not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Sloppy gear change improving]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]

==Common==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]
*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]
*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

----

= VW Electrics (not camping)=
[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf | some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
* [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent Wipers]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting uprated headlight kit|Fitting uprated headlight kit]]
* [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
* [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
* [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
* [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
* [[VW Electrics fuse box|Fuse box]]
* [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors| Electric wing mirrors]]
* [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
* [[VW Electrics front fog lights|front fog lights]]
* [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control Illumination]]
* [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering Geometry/Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres Recommended tyres| Recommended tyres]]
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres 15" alternative wheels| Alternative wheel rims]]
* [[Wheels and Tyres combinations that fit|Combinations that fit]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres tyre size calculator|Tyre size calculator]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres PCD|What fits (PCD list)]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Tyre pressures|Wheels and Tyres tyre pressures]]

----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]

----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

*[[Body work and glass Leaking windscreen| Leaking windscreen]]
*Painting your van
**[[Body work and glass Painting | Painting - General]]
**[[Body work and glass Roller painting | Paint your van for £50]]
*[[Body work and glass window removal and refitting| Window removal and refitting]]
*[[Body work and glass Doors | Doors]]
**[[Body work and glass Doors locks| Doors locks]]
*[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation| Insulation]]
*[[Body Work and Glass window scrapers |Window Scrapers]]

*[[Body Work and Glass - Rust| Rust ]]
*Areas that rust (for photos mainly)
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
** [[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
** [[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|seatbelt legality]]
==Seats==
There is a roll pin in the bar between the seat and the arm.
**[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
**[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
**[[Headrest fitting to rear seats]]
==Headlining/ interior panels==
**[[Interior non camping interior panels| interior panels]]
**[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]
==Cab Door Armrests==
**[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]
==Dashboard==
**[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
**[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]
==Gearshift==
**[[Interior non camping short shifter|short shifter]]
==Other==
**[[Interior non camping tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
**[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

= Camping Interior =

==Cupboards, beds, roofs, windows etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior Conversion specs and brochers|Conversion specs and brochures]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units| Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery| Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior Rock and roll bed hinges|Rock and roll bed hinges]]
* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Recipes]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]
----

= Campers =

==Exterior==
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]

==Conversions==
*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Trnsporter (1981)]]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page | Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General Mechanical Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw Types of screw fixings]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]
*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]

==Tools/Sundries/Techniques==

'''Tools'''
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Rivnuts | Rivnuts]]

'''Sundries'''
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]

'''Techniques'''
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
----

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]

----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]
'''The "Naked Van" Project'''

Please post your pictures of hard to get to places and bits you dont normally see
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
----

=T25 Literature, Magazine Articles, Camper User Guides, Manuals, Specifications=
[http://vwpix.terlinden.com/index_en.htm Almost every brochure and manual]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]

----

= Internet Links and Contacts=
==Parts Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]

==Internet links==
*[[Internet hightop freindly car parks|hightop friendly carparks]]
*[[Internet Links other t25 and vanagon resources|Other T25 and vanagon resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club supplier contacts]]
*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]
*[[Westy jokers]]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp | MOT advisories online]]
----

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]
[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying parts from main dealer]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==
[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy (club members feedback)]]

----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts

2008-03-06T15:22:08Z

VWlewis:

'''Seatbelt Fitting'''
Caravelles have pre-existing holes and threaded nuts awaiting your 3 point belt. If you have a factory converted camper the chances are it left the factory as a panel van and you will need to add your own mounting points. you can tell if your van is converted as the windows in the rear will have a squidgy bit of rubber betweeen the outside panel where the glass rubber sits, and the inside panel which will have a plastic covering strip to hide the edge where the hole for the window was cut.
 
It is easy to find these existing threaded anchor points - they are usually fitted with a threaded dust cap - see photo below. By carefully feeling along the lining (or removing it), you will find a depression where the cap is located. The cap cam be unscrewed with a cross-head driver.

[http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_510.htm | heres the MOT requirements]
 
'''Middle Seat Seatbelts''' 
There are at least 2 approaches to fitting middle seat 3-point seatbelts. If you use the original double (2 person) Caravelle seats, then they are fitted with lap belts as standard. These can be replaced with 3-point seatbelts; the seat next to the window can use an anchor fitted to the side panel (C pillar) inbetween the windows. Some T25's were factory fitted with captured nuts providing a seatbelt anchor point. (see photo below)
[[Image:Seat_belt_anchors_for_middle_seats.jpg]]
 
If not, then these need to be added - a kit to do this is available from JK.
 
'''Rear Seatbelts'''
As mentioned above, pre-existing threaded anchor points may be available. The photos below show their location. You can fit the lower anchor and bring the belt up to the top of the board as shown in the 1st photo, or with a bit of cutting and fitting, you can so the same as the WhiteStar install shown in the second photo.
 
'''Photo 1: Caravelle install''' 
[[Image:Upper_Seatbelt_Mount.JPG]]
 
'''Photo 2: WhiteStar install''' 
[[Image:Seatbelt_in_a_whitestar.jpg]]
 
The lower anchors are shown below.
 
[[Image:Lower_Seatbelt_Anchor.JPG]]

File:Lower Seatbelt Anchor.JPG

2008-03-06T15:18:59Z

VWlewis: Lower Rear Seatbelt Anchor

Lower Rear Seatbelt Anchor

File:Seatbelt in a whitestar.jpg

2008-03-06T15:13:11Z

VWlewis: Rear Seatbelt in a WhiteStar

Rear Seatbelt in a WhiteStar

File:Upper Seatbelt Mount.JPG

2008-03-06T15:09:51Z

VWlewis: Location of pre-installed anchor point

Location of pre-installed anchor point

Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts

2008-03-06T15:09:10Z

VWlewis:

'''Seatbelt Fitting'''
Caravelles have pre-existing holes and threaded nuts awaiting your 3 point belt. If you have a factory converted camper the chances are it left the factory as a panel van and you will need to add your own mounting points. you can tell if your van is converted as the windows in the rear will have a squidgy bit of rubber betweeen the outside panel where the glass rubber sits, and the inside panel which will have a plastic covering strip to hide the edge where the hole for the window was cut.
 
It is easy to find these existing threaded anchor points - they are usually fitted with a threaded dust cap - see photo below. By carefully feeling along the lining (or removing it), you will find a depression where the cap is located. The cap cam be unscrewed with a cross-head driver.

[http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_510.htm | heres the MOT requirements]
 
'''Middle Seat Seatbelts'''
There are at least 2 approaches to fitting middle seat 3-point seatbelts. If you use the original double (2 person) Caravelle seats, then they are fitted with lap belts as standard. These can be replaced with 3-point seatbelts; the seat next to the window can use an anchor fitted to the side panel (C pillar) inbetween the windows. Some T25's were factory fitted with captured nuts providing a seatbelt anchor point. (see photo below)
[[Image:Seat_belt_anchors_for_middle_seats.jpg]]

If not, then these need to be added - a kit to do this is available from JK. 
 
'''Rear Seatbelts'''
As mentioned above, pre-existing threaded anchor points may be available. Check out the photo below to see their location.

Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts

2008-03-06T09:42:31Z

VWlewis:

'''Seatbelt Fitting'''
Caravelles have pre-existing holes and threaded nuts awaiting your 3 point belt. If you have a factory converted camper the chances are it left the factory as a panel van and you will need to add your own mounting points. you can tell if your van is converted as the windows in the rear will have a squidgy bit of rubber betweeen the outside panel where the glass rubber sits, and the inside panel which will have a plastic covering strip to hide the edge where the hole for the window was cut.
<li>
It is easy to find these existing holes - they are usually fitted with a threaded dust cap - see photo below. By carefully feeling along the lining (or removing it), you will find a depression where the cap is located.

[http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_510.htm | heres the MOT requirements]

'''Middle Seat Seatbelts'''
There are at least 2 approaches to fitting middle seat 3-point seatbelts. If you use the original double (2 person) Caravelle seats, then they are fitted with lap belts as standard. These can be replaced with 3-point seatbelts; the seat next to the window can use an anchor fitted to the side panel (C pillar) inbetween the windows. Some T25's were factory fitted with captured nuts providing a seatbelt anchor point. (see photo below)
[[Image:Seat_belt_anchors_for_middle_seats.jpg]]

If not, then these need to be added - a kit to do this is available from JK. 

'''Rear Seatbelts'''
As mentioned above, pre-existing ... to be continued

File:Seat belt anchors for middle seats.jpg

2008-03-06T09:25:01Z

VWlewis: Pre-fitted threaded upper seatbelt anchor with white plug fitted.

Pre-fitted threaded upper seatbelt anchor with white plug fitted.

File:Guide and clip.JPG

2008-02-13T17:02:00Z

VWlewis: Close up view of the guide and clip

Close up view of the guide and clip

File:Full set of headrests.JPG

2008-02-13T16:51:12Z

VWlewis: Finished result

Finished result

File:Guide fitted.JPG

2008-02-13T16:49:48Z

VWlewis: One guide fitted - hole for other guide

One guide fitted - hole for other guide

File:Removing headrest guides.jpg

2008-02-13T16:25:11Z

VWlewis: Headrest guide removal method

Headrest guide removal method

Main Page

2008-02-13T16:17:35Z

VWlewis: /* Interior (non camping) */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== IMPORTANT ==
*[[what is wiki|WHAT IS WIKI? new users start here]]

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to this page and to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting. Please PM hacksawbob on the club 80-90 forums if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights at the moment. ''''Please login with your forum username and password''''

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, due to typos in the internal links)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. SPACE '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New/Prospective Owners=
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp | VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines ==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fuel lines fire warning| Fuel lines fire warning]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems| Vac advance/retard problems]]

==Aircooled==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature| Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled tinware| Aircooled tinware]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|engine removal]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Ignition timing - distributors, setting up]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|spark plugs]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Carburrettors

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|cylinder head spark plug numbers]]
* [[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines compression testing| Compression testing]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]

== Diesel engines ==
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Intro and diagnosis]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
* [[Diesel Engines - Turbo|Turbo]]
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
** [[Parts - Cylinder heads|Cylinder heads]]
** [[Parts - Piston damage|Piston damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Part Nos]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft]]
** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters recomended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]

----

==Exhausts==
*[[Exhausts|Exhausts]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*Injectors
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plug replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]

==Petrol==

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel System MPG|MPG]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Coolant==
* [[Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash|flashing red light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands| Recommended brands]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]

==Heating==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|Heater blower replacement]]
* [[Heating - Insulating heater hoses|Insulating heater hoses]]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic recommended Oil|Recommended oil]]

==Manual specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|clutch slave replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance| Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch pedal not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Sloppy gear change improving]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]

==Common==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]
*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]
*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

----

= VW Electrics (not camping)=
[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf | some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
* [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent Wipers]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting uprated headlight kit|Fitting uprated headlight kit]]
* [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
* [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
* [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
* [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
* [[VW Electrics fuse box|Fuse box]]
* [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors| Electric wing mirrors]]
* [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
* [[VW Electrics front fog lights|front fog lights]]
* [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control Illumination]]
* [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering Geometry/Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres Recommended tyres| Recommended tyres]]
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres 15" alternative wheels| Alternative wheel rims]]
* [[Wheels and Tyres combinations that fit|Combinations that fit]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres tyre size calculator|Tyre size calculator]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres PCD|What fits (PCD list)]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Tyre pressures|Wheels and Tyres tyre pressures]]

----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]

----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

*[[Body work and glass Leaking windscreen| Leaking windscreen]]
*Painting your van
**[[Body work and glass Painting | Painting - General]]
**[[Body work and glass Roller painting | Paint your van for £50]]
*[[Body work and glass window removal and refitting| Window removal and refitting]]
*[[Body work and glass Doors | Doors]]
**[[Body work and glass Doors locks| Doors locks]]
*[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation| Insulation]]
*[[Body Work and Glass window scrapers |Window Scrapers]]

*[[Body Work and Glass - Rust| Rust ]]
*Areas that rust (for photos mainly)
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
*Seatbelts
** [[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
** [[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|seatbelt legality]]
*Seats
There is a roll pin in the bar between the seat and the arm.
**[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
**[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
**[[Headrest fitting to rear seats]]
*Headlining/ interior panels
**[[Interior non camping interior panels| interior panels]]
**[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]
*Cab Door Armrests
**[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]
*Dashboard
**[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
**[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]
*Other
**[[Interior non camping tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
**[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

**[[Interior non camping short shifter|short shifter]]

= Camping Interior =

==Cupboards, beds, roofs, windows etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior Conversion specs and brochers|Conversion specs and brochures]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units| Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery| Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior Rock and roll bed hinges|Rock and roll bed hinges]]
* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Recipes]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]
----

= Campers =

==Exterior==
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]

==Conversions==
*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Trnsporter (1981)]]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page | Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General Mechanical Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw Types of screw fixings]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]
*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]

==Tools/Sundries/Techniques==

'''Tools'''
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Rivnuts | Rivnuts]]

'''Sundries'''
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]

'''Techniques'''
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
----

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]

----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]
'''The "Naked Van" Project'''

Please post your pictures of hard to get to places and bits you dont normally see
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
----

=T25 Literature, Magazine Articles, Camper User Guides, Manuals, Specifications=
[http://vwpix.terlinden.com/index_en.htm Almost every brochure and manual]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]

----

= Internet Links and Contacts=
==Parts Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]

==Internet links==
*[[Internet hightop freindly car parks|hightop friendly carparks]]
*[[Internet Links other t25 and vanagon resources|Other T25 and vanagon resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club supplier contacts]]
*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]
*[[Westy jokers]]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp | MOT advisories online]]
----

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]
[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying parts from main dealer]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==
[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy (club members feedback)]]

----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

File:Headrest and fittings.JPG

2008-02-13T16:14:46Z

VWlewis: Headrest Assembly for T25 rear seats

Headrest Assembly for T25 rear seats

File:Led orientation.jpg

2008-02-11T13:40:30Z

VWlewis: LED connections

LED connections

VW Electrics fuse box

2008-02-06T22:30:12Z

VWlewis:

Waterboxer fuse locations
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/electrical-Fusebox-locations.jpg

'''VWlewis added : Fusebox Connector Description'''

The pin arrangement for the connector C in a late model fuesebox is shown below
[[Image:C_connector.jpg]]
Notes
<li> All connectors number the pins from top left to bottom right as shown above.
<li>Pin 10 is missing but the numbering is not disrupted by this.
<li>This logic applies to all the connectors on the fusebox.

'''Photo of the rear of a late T25 Fusebox - see connector C'''
[[Image:Fusebox_rear_view.jpg]]

'''Note on Foglight Fitting'''

The foglight +ve feed from the 1st position on the foglight switch comes out of Pin 22 on Connector C (see above - via fuse 6 and needs a relay fitting to position 7). Relay 7 is driven by the sidelights so the foglight power is only connected once the sidelights are on. Use this feed from connector C to drive the relay for the foglights.

VW Electrics fuse box

2008-02-02T18:22:55Z

VWlewis:

Waterboxer fuse locations
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/electrical-Fusebox-locations.jpg

'''Fusebox Connector Description'''

The pin arrangement for the connector C in a late model fuesebox is shown below
[[Image:C_connector.jpg]]
Notes
<li> All connectors number the pins from top left to bottom right as shown above.
<li>Pin 10 is missing but the numbering is not disrupted by this.
<li>This logic applies to all the connectors on the fusebox.

'''Photo of the rear of a late T25 Fusebox - see connector C'''
[[Image:Fusebox_rear_view.jpg]]

'''Note on Foglight Fitting'''

The foglight +ve feed from the 1st position on the foglight switch comes out of Pin 22 on Connector C (see above - via fuse 6 and needs a relay fitting to position 7). Relay 7 is driven by the sidelights so the foglight power is only connected once the sidelights are on. Use this feed from connector C to drive the relay for the foglights.

File:Fusebox rear view.jpg

2008-02-02T18:20:02Z

VWlewis: Rear View of Late T25 Fusebox - part number 171 941 813D / 171 941 821D

Rear View of Late T25 Fusebox - part number 171 941 813D / 171 941 821D

VW Electrics fuse box

2008-02-02T13:20:56Z

VWlewis:

Waterboxer fuse locations
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/electrical-Fusebox-locations.jpg

'''Fusebox Connector Description'''

The pin arrangement for the connector C in a late model fuesebox is shown below
[[Image:C_connector.jpg]]
Notes
<li> All connectors number the pins from top left to bottom right as shown above.
<li>Pin 10 is missing but the numbering is not disrupted by this.
<li>This logic applies to all the connectors on the fusebox.</li>

'''Note on Foglight Fitting'''

The foglight +ve feed from the 1st position on the foglight switch comes out of Pin 22 on Connector C (via fuse 6 and needs a relay fitting to position 7). Relay 7 is driven by the sidelights so the foglight power is only connected once the sidelights are on. Use this feed from connector C to drive the relay for the foglights.

VW Electrics fuse box

2008-01-30T14:35:45Z

VWlewis:

Waterboxer fuse locations
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/electrical-Fusebox-locations.jpg

The pin arrangement for the connectors is shown below

File:C connector.jpg

2008-01-30T14:32:17Z

VWlewis: Late T25 Fusebox Connector - position C showing pin layout and numbering

Late T25 Fusebox Connector - position C showing pin layout and numbering

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2008-01-16T21:09:45Z

VWlewis:

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2008-01-16T21:09:09Z

VWlewis:

[http://aulich24.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=121&osCsid=3abdee400ba76266703e46dd8b65751e| Dash lights from German supplier]

You could also get some blue LEDs and some 470ohm resistors and make your own.

------------------------------------------

286 wedge style 12v LED bulbs are also widely available on ebay

You could also upgrade your existing holders to take 12v LED bulbs like I did

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/dash_led.html

'''VW Lewis'''

[LED Technical Resource]

I found this technical information on the use of LEDs - an excellent resource!

http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2008-01-16T21:08:34Z

VWlewis:

[http://aulich24.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=121&osCsid=3abdee400ba76266703e46dd8b65751e| Dash lights from German supplier]

You could also get some blue LEDs and some 470ohm resistors and make your own.

------------------------------------------

286 wedge style 12v LED bulbs are also widely available on ebay

You could also upgrade your existing holders to take 12v LED bulbs like I did

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/dash_led.html

'''VW Lewis''

[[LED Technical Resource]]
I found this technical information on the use of LEDs - an excellent resource!

http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2008-01-16T21:07:27Z

VWlewis:

[http://aulich24.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=121&osCsid=3abdee400ba76266703e46dd8b65751e| Dash lights from German supplier]

You could also get some blue LEDs and some 470ohm resistors and make your own.

------------------------------------------

286 wedge style 12v LED bulbs are also widely available on ebay

You could also upgrade your existing holders to take 12v LED bulbs like I did

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/dash_led.html

!!!VW Lewis!!!

I found this technical information on the use of LEDs - an excellent resource!

http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html

VW Electrics dash lights upgrade

2008-01-16T21:06:11Z

VWlewis: added new technical resource

[http://aulich24.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=121&osCsid=3abdee400ba76266703e46dd8b65751e| Dash lights from German supplier]

You could also get some blue LEDs and some 470ohm resistors and make your own.

------------------------------------------

286 wedge style 12v LED bulbs are also widely available on ebay

You could also upgrade your existing holders to take 12v LED bulbs like I did

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/dash_led.html

I found this technical information on the use of LEDs - an excellent resource!

http://www.theledlight.com/technical.html

Misc tips and tricks buyers guide

2007-11-13T22:25:52Z

VWlewis: /* Windows */

[http://members.tripod.com/%7Ewetwesties/buyers.txt Also see used VW buyers checklist]

-----
check under the footwell carpet for rot, and in the dash pod for corrosion on the electrics in there, may be an idea to check all lights and indicators are switching on OK and fuel+heat guages register if the electrics have moisture in them these may be faulty. Something to watch for if there has been water ingress is has it started to rot either the interior, beds and units etc. Or whether it is puddling in the sills. Also might be an idea to remove the lower fridge vent to see inside, check with the owner first as when you unscrew this the screw holes may just disintegrate, if not try and get a look at this area from the insidethrough the cupboards. take a small mirror and torch and see if you can get a look at how much rot there is in there. The fridge condensates here and typically there will be some rot, just how much will determine weher you can slow its progress as I did with waxoyl or wether you be on the end of a welding bill in a years time. Try and get a feel for the seatbelt mouting points, the inner points are hard to see on the fronts you may need to feel for them. The bottom of the battery tray under the drivers/passengers seat and the area below the rear air vents to the engine are also favourite rot spots. surface rust is treatable and unavoidable some might say, I'm talking corrosion to the point where its holed or the metal has become brittle.

-----

Buyers guide taken from http://www.brickyard.co.uk
Written by Simon Baxter of http://www.brickwerks.co.uk / http://www.sjbaxter.co.uk

I have put this guide together to try and help those people that are thinking of buying a T3/vanagon/wedge/brick or what ever you want to call them, but also as a bit of a guide of what people that already own them of things to watch out for.
I am not the keeper of all knowledge when it comes to T3's but I would say I know a little more than others, so if you feel you
have anything to add to this guide then please let me know or if you feel that I am wrong also please also let me know (I am a
big boy now, I can take it!). I have based this guide on my time owning, driving and repairing other peoples vehicles and looking at T3's in scrap yards and at VW shows.

== Body ==

This along with the engine is the biggest deciding point of your purchase so it's imperative that's its in good condition, spending a little time inspecting your propective purchase may save you a hell of a lot of money in the long run. Buy on body condition.

== Seams ==

As you are probably aware, T3's tend to rust a little around the body seams, due to modern manufacturing techniques, body tolerances and panel fit have come along way since the "bay window" van ('68-'79) but to the cost of rust on our vans, I believe it to be because the seams aren't big enough to be able to get a sponge in properly to clean them out, the flexible sealer cracks, salt and road dirt get in and hey presto...rust. Once its in there your going to have great difficulty getting it out, so be warned, walk away from a van with rot around the seams unless you are confident you can get rid of it. Most vans are now getting to that age where a little crispiness around the edges is inevitable, also check that all the seams that are meant to be there actually are! A lot of repairers either weld the seams up or fill over them, it WILL be hiding something!

== Gutters ==

With the standard height of a T3 it is quite difficult to wash the roof and gutters so they are often overlooked and hence
get blocked which holds water against the panels which eventually leads to corrosion. Roof racks also scratch the paint around
this vulnerable area and impede the free flow of water away, so when your going to inspect a van, take something to stand on
and take a good look at the state of the guttering (or cantrail to give it its correct name). It is a good idea to give the gutters a good clean out once in a while with some cutting compound or T-cut and give them a thin layer of protective wax such as Finigans Waxoyle. Some of the lesser camper conversions (who will remain nameless!) tend to rot around where the hinges for the side opening roof attaches, and tend to break away. If your looking at a camper then check the area around the gutters with the roof up.

== Windows ==

Sounds silly doesn't it?, well I'll explain... its not actually the windows, rather its frame or surround, windscreen
surrounds are prone to corrosion in the bottom corners normally noticed by a small pool of water in the foot wells after rain,
although you can't go pulling someone's windscreen out when you are thinking of buying it you can probably get away with lifting
the corner of the rubber with a small screw driver and having a little sneaky peaky underneath for brown crispy bits, or alternatively you can have a look at the underside from under the dashboard (so remember your torch!). It's not just the screen you have to watch out for, its converted panel vans, these are the vehicles that left the factory as a delivery van and have had windows "cut" into them. When the hole is cut for the window, the bare metal isn't often primed or painted so the first time it rains the water runs behind the seal and sits there rotting the metal so watch out for bubbles around these windows.

Factory fitted windows should give you no problems. If they have the chrome inserts in the rubber, these tend to fade and lose their finish but can be replaced easily with the right tools. Some of these parts are still available from VW (allow for a budget of 100GBP2007 for rubbers and inserts) but alternative sources of similar parts can be used.

== Front wheel arches ==

Volkswagen in there infinite wisdom put some expansion tanks in the front wheel arches for their "wacky" fuel tank design (more later), trouble is that they are a bit of a water trap and hold mud (therefore water) against the interior of the arch. Regular washing is the answer here but if its already taken hold then watch out for M.O.T failures as it lies within the prescribed 30 cm of a seat belt mounting. So check under the matting around the seat belt mounts. Also watch out for the cab step as the rubber anti slip thing holds water underneath it also leading to rot.

== Rear wheel arches ==

Just because they have a seam around them, that's the worst bit, Oh and they are a real swine to fit as they disappear into the tub of the arch. Cab floor. Normally due to a leaking screen and water collecting under the rubber mat and not being able to get out, a cursory glance under the mat isn't going to go amiss, not that bad to repair, just watch out for the throttle cable conduit!!

== Fuel tank ==

A lot of people have rotten fuel tanks and they are blissfully unaware! you see the top of the tank is more or less flat and level with a valley pressed into it for clearance for the antique heating system on air-cooled models. Its not till you fill up over half way until you find out! You can imagine a conversation at the factory "oh no we can't fit this big numb hose between the body and the tank" says one designer "don't worry" says another " we'll put a big dent in the top of the tank and some silly tanks in the front arches, oh and we'll need lots of fiddly pipes too!!" so.. Anyway back to the point, the top of the tank is a big water trap, water sits there rusting the tank from the outside in. So a grovel around under the van is in order here, look for clean patches on the tank where the under seal and paint have been washed away by the leaking fuel, the tanks aren't that bad to replace Its just those damn fiddly pipes in the top that are a pain!, oh and please be aware that the earlier (pre '85 model year) tank are now deleted from VAG stock so a good second hand one or a later tank and filler neck must be fitted. Tanks are interchangeable between petrol and Diesel models except the 2.1 petrol which has a swirl pot for the injection system. New replacement tanks are available from the usual sources.

== Doors ==

Not many problems here, just the window winder knobs fall off just like the rest of the VW's of the same era. The use of later MK III polo style winders usually works. Window winder mechanisms wear, easy to repair. Doors are interchangeable between years.

== Tailgate ==

Not may problems here either, later (post '85) models seem to rust a little on the inner edge by the striker mechanism, locks seize from lack of use. The struts that hold up the tailgate loose their strength but are quick, easy and inexpensive to replace. Tailgates are interchangeable although there are differences between early and late, the lock aperture for one is larger on later models.

== Sliding door ==

(Side loading door). These especially the commercials rot a little along the bottom edge, earlier ones (pre '85) are by design difficult to close without slamming them, this is one of the things that was picked up by most owners when the vehicle was launched back in 1979 but it took VW 5 years to rectify, also watch out for worn door runner bearings resulting in a less than smooth operation of the door and are quite expensive from VW, again good second hand ones are the way forward. Early and late door are not interchangeable, something to think about when purchasing a replacement. Door handles are also different as are the hinges. Early door handles are getting hard to find, expect to pay over the odds.

== Running gear ==

In my opinion is quite a good strong setup and doesn't give that much trouble. Most were fitted with a brake servo to aid you weary leg but some early 1600's came sans servo but still pull up well compared to a polo!

== Front suspension ==

There were two systems used, the early style with pressed steel lower wishbones and the later with a cast (forged?) lower wishbones, Im not too sure why they changed them, maybe they weren't strong enough but what ever the reason the two systems suffered the same problems, broken anti roll bar link arms, the earlier cranked ones break off at the top of the thread and at around £40 each they aren't cheap but on the plus side they are quite easy to repair. Upper wishbone inner bushes also wear, be careful if you tackle replacement as the bolt that secures the wishbone to the body also sets the camber angle for your steering geometry and if you malechicken that up you in deep doodoo as you need all manner of fancy machinery to reset it! Upper ball joint also wear but are dead easy to replace.

== Rear suspension ==

The rear trailing arm has been know to rust through in places, have a scrape of the seams and the spring cup, if lowering your van then be aware that you will gain lots of negative camber, this is adjustable if you can get the bolts undone! they do seize into the metal bush sleeve. Syncro 16" Syncro arms are longer to cope with the increase in suspension height, thus not interchangeable with 2WD models. Rear wheel bearing do tend to have a small amount of linear movement, this is normal and not generally cause for alarm.

== Front brakes ==

Again two systems used, the front brakes were robbed from the "bay window" and used on the T3 until 6/'86, bleed nipples fall off due to corrosion. The pistons leak when the front wheel bearings are left unadjusted for long periods. Flexible brake hoses are very long, sometimes known to foul parts of the body and suspension, also prone to cracking and bubbling up. Later brakes "feel" better. The brake disc carries the wheel bearing so if you are replacing front brake discs remember that you will also need to purchase wheel bearing kits too. Rear brakes. The automatic adjusters never seem to work as they should, one of the tags on the back plates corrode and fall off and that's about it, nothing is hard to replace, cables are straight forward to do. Rear brake adjuster bars wear which don't allow the rear brakes to adjust as they should, this can be rectified by clever filing of the bar.

== Gearbox ==

4 and 5 speed manual gearboxes were available. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Differential bearings tend to get a bit noisy around 100K miles, 5 speed boxes get stuck in gear due to synchromesh failure but VW modified the parts from about '88 on. Pinion oils seals go hard and leak oil out of the bell housing, the seal is cheap but you have to take the gearbox out. 5 speed boxes generally aren't that good or as high geared as people think, its just the ratio's are closer together. Don't be put off by a 4 speed box.

== Other Stuff ==

Just stuff that doesn't come under the above headings! Electric's.They don't seem that bad Its just when someone has been messing with them!, have a poke under the dash and look for scotch locks (or bodge locks as I like to call them) they are those little blue connectors that you squeeze together with pliers, they are OK but...... The printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster is prone to burning out where it goes around corners and the connector that connects it to the loom often corrodes and causes trouble and at 70GBP2004 for just the PCB well Its not a risk you want to take so make sure all the warning lights and the dash illumination works, if the fuel gauge doesn't work it could be a few things and could lead to fuel tank removal so check it! If the horn doesn't work Its normally a little earth strap at the lower end of the steering column.

== Engine ==

There are a few different engines to choose from, to be brutally honest non of the engines are brilliant, Its just which one do you go for, I will try to list as many know faults of each engine to give you some idea of what to watch out for. I'll only concentrate on the engines available in the UK although the others are based around the same engine anyway. ALL of the petrol engine available for use in the UK are capable of running on unleaded fuel with little or no alterations.

=== Air-cooled - petrol ===

==== CT 1,6l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82, 37Kw / 50bhp ====

Loosely based around the type 1 VW engine with added hydraulic tappets, removable spin on type oil filter, cooling fan on end of crank. Very under powered at 50hp, but quite economical. Watch out for cracked cylinder heads as these thing eat them, make sure thermostat is opening as if it isn't then your looking at a cooked engine.

==== CU 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51Kw / 70bhp ====

The better of the two air-cooled models, based around the older type 4 engines that were fitted to type 4 VW's as well as the later bay windows vans. Engine features modified cylinder heads with "D" shaped exhaust ports, hydraulic tappets and spin on oil filter, cooling system is more or less the same as the earlier bay with slightly different fan housing and heat exchangers. Twin Solex carburetor are fitted from factory but are troublesome and prone to air leaks and worn throttle shafts at around 80 000miles, replacement is the only cure. Leaking push rod tubes are quite easy to repair as the cylinder head no longer needs removal, quite a good, strong engine but again, check thermostat operation, smoke emitted and endfloat of crank (Quite hard to check as there is a mesh guard over the fan).Heat exchangers are very expensive at well over £100 each to replace, check for fumes in cab and that the outer cases are in good nick. Not very economical!

==== CV 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51kw / 70bhp injection for USA ====

(see CU) water-cooled - petrol. First a note on water boxers or wasserboxers (German term) as they are sometime known, These engines suffer from cylinder head bolts that corrode due to the antifreeze not being changed at the correct interval, after much conflab and deliberation between the members of Club 80-90 we came to the conclusion that no matter what antifreeze is used it must be replaced every 2 years, Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors which break down in time to the point where they are no longer effective and internal corrosion of the engines occurs (head bolts). In the US, VW of America recognised this problem and gave vanagon owners a discount on a new engine, VW of America also said that the use of pink antifreeze (G12) would be better as it was phosphorous free, there's loads of chemistry behind all this and to be frank It's a bit baffling, you can read what American vanagon owners have to say here and some more here. If I were you I would check if the van you are looking at has had the antifreeze changed and if not then state these facts. At the end of the day as one club member said," the head bolts won't grow back" which is a good statement! and prepare for an engine replacement at somepoint in the future, as the bolts once corroded and broken are nigh on impossible to remove. Don't get me wrong, a lot of the engines with leaky head gaskets can be repaired, most of the time the head bolt nuts do pull and a repair can take place, you just need to be armed with the risks!

==== DF 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 44Kw / 60bhp ====

Check head bolts aren't missing! Check for signs of head gasket leaks (Black seal between the crankcase and head) not bad engines apart from that, the DF does feel under powered even in empty van form so imagine what's its like with a camper interior and a couple of people in there, no real problems except for the one mentioned above.

==== DG 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 57Kw / 78bhp ====

The 1900cc to go for if you have a choice,again, headbolts and gaskets. Later exhaust systems, the one with the pipes everywhere, they can be very expensive to buy and time consuming to replace as some of the studs break away from the head and clearance to get a drill in is tight on some parts.

==== MV 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 85on 70kw / 95bhp or 89bhp with autobox ====

Cats lower power output and aren't needed for the MOT till 1993 so if its got one you can quite legally remove it (UK). Injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head bolts and gaskets!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

==== DJ 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection from 85on 82kw / 112bhp ====

The higher output of all the engines, these fly! again injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head blots!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

SS 2,1l 4-cyl.Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 89on 68kw / 92bhp.
GW 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection 83 to 85 66kw / 90bhp.
EY 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 85on 40kw / 55bhp.
SP 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 86on 54kw / 73bhp for Swiss export .
DH 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 84 to 85 61kw / 83bhp.
SR 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 86on 64kw / 87bhp for Swiss export.

=== Diesel - Water-cooled ===

The following engines are based around the VW Golf Diesel engine that first showed its face in the 70's as a 1500 (I think!) In time it has increased in size, output and complexity. Parts and replacement engines are quite easy to come by as you can get them from other cars including VW Golfs, Passats, Jetta and some Audi's. To get the engine to fit in the Transporters lower engine bay they have been leaned over on their side at a 50° angle as opposed to the 15° it is normally mounted at so if you do want to replace the engine either with another diesel or a petrol engine (quite popular) then you will need the sump, oil pick up pipe and some other bits from the diesel engine. Check for anything other than a little smoke, you expect a little smoke from a diesel but not excessive, this could indicate worn injection parts which can get very expensive. Check for good cold starting.
Black smoke indicates unburned fuel, could be as simple as a blocked air filter but could also be dribbling injectors, incorrect injection pump timing or a faulty pump, could be cheap, could be expensive, be careful! White smoke indicates low combustion temperature, again could be pump timing but could also be a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is the same as a petrol, worn engine, turbo seals, valve stem oil seals, worn piston rings, none are cheap!! Another thing to consider is that most of these vans will have been a working vehicle at some point driven by people who couldn't give a monkeys about them, check service books for timing belt replacements as a snapped belt will wreck your cylinder head.

==== CS 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 81 to 87 37kw / 50bhp ====

This was the first water-cooled engine VW put in the Transporter back in 1981, from the beginning of the development of the Transporter VW always had in mind putting a water-cooled engine in it, why else would it have that massive grille and all that space behind it? To be fair these engines are very slow, you don't often see them either, They were available when diesels weren't very popular in the UK I suppose. These engines are quite economical though but are often in poor condition and worn due to the owners having to drive them hard to get anything like reasonable performance from their measly engine.

==== KY 1,7l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 87on 42Kw / 57bhp ====

These engines are slightly better but still unpopular. Exclusive 1.7 Diesel engine parts can be expensive due to its unpopularity.

==== JX 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright turbo diesel from 85on 51Kw / 70bhp ====

To me this is the engine to go for but still has problems, Cylinder heads crack but replacements are reasonably priced even from VW (about 300GBP2004 complete). They are as quick as the 2.0 air-cooled engine and twice as economical, there are two turbo's fitted to this lump, the earlier Garret and the later KKK.

Misc tips and tricks buyers guide

2007-11-13T22:25:30Z

VWlewis: /* Front wheel arches */

[http://members.tripod.com/%7Ewetwesties/buyers.txt Also see used VW buyers checklist]

-----
check under the footwell carpet for rot, and in the dash pod for corrosion on the electrics in there, may be an idea to check all lights and indicators are switching on OK and fuel+heat guages register if the electrics have moisture in them these may be faulty. Something to watch for if there has been water ingress is has it started to rot either the interior, beds and units etc. Or whether it is puddling in the sills. Also might be an idea to remove the lower fridge vent to see inside, check with the owner first as when you unscrew this the screw holes may just disintegrate, if not try and get a look at this area from the insidethrough the cupboards. take a small mirror and torch and see if you can get a look at how much rot there is in there. The fridge condensates here and typically there will be some rot, just how much will determine weher you can slow its progress as I did with waxoyl or wether you be on the end of a welding bill in a years time. Try and get a feel for the seatbelt mouting points, the inner points are hard to see on the fronts you may need to feel for them. The bottom of the battery tray under the drivers/passengers seat and the area below the rear air vents to the engine are also favourite rot spots. surface rust is treatable and unavoidable some might say, I'm talking corrosion to the point where its holed or the metal has become brittle.

-----

Buyers guide taken from http://www.brickyard.co.uk
Written by Simon Baxter of http://www.brickwerks.co.uk / http://www.sjbaxter.co.uk

I have put this guide together to try and help those people that are thinking of buying a T3/vanagon/wedge/brick or what ever you want to call them, but also as a bit of a guide of what people that already own them of things to watch out for.
I am not the keeper of all knowledge when it comes to T3's but I would say I know a little more than others, so if you feel you
have anything to add to this guide then please let me know or if you feel that I am wrong also please also let me know (I am a
big boy now, I can take it!). I have based this guide on my time owning, driving and repairing other peoples vehicles and looking at T3's in scrap yards and at VW shows.

== Body ==

This along with the engine is the biggest deciding point of your purchase so it's imperative that's its in good condition, spending a little time inspecting your propective purchase may save you a hell of a lot of money in the long run. Buy on body condition.

== Seams ==

As you are probably aware, T3's tend to rust a little around the body seams, due to modern manufacturing techniques, body tolerances and panel fit have come along way since the "bay window" van ('68-'79) but to the cost of rust on our vans, I believe it to be because the seams aren't big enough to be able to get a sponge in properly to clean them out, the flexible sealer cracks, salt and road dirt get in and hey presto...rust. Once its in there your going to have great difficulty getting it out, so be warned, walk away from a van with rot around the seams unless you are confident you can get rid of it. Most vans are now getting to that age where a little crispiness around the edges is inevitable, also check that all the seams that are meant to be there actually are! A lot of repairers either weld the seams up or fill over them, it WILL be hiding something!

== Gutters ==

With the standard height of a T3 it is quite difficult to wash the roof and gutters so they are often overlooked and hence
get blocked which holds water against the panels which eventually leads to corrosion. Roof racks also scratch the paint around
this vulnerable area and impede the free flow of water away, so when your going to inspect a van, take something to stand on
and take a good look at the state of the guttering (or cantrail to give it its correct name). It is a good idea to give the gutters a good clean out once in a while with some cutting compound or T-cut and give them a thin layer of protective wax such as Finigans Waxoyle. Some of the lesser camper conversions (who will remain nameless!) tend to rot around where the hinges for the side opening roof attaches, and tend to break away. If your looking at a camper then check the area around the gutters with the roof up.

== Windows ==

Sounds silly doesn't it?, well I'll explain... its not actually the windows, rather its frame or surround, windscreen
surrounds are prone to corrosion in the bottom corners normally noticed by a small pool of water in the foot wells after rain,
although you can't go pulling someone's windscreen out when you are thinking of buying it you can probably get away with lifting
the corner of the rubber with a small screw driver and having a little sneaky peaky underneath for brown crispy bits, or alternatively you can have a look at the underside from under the dashboard (so remember your torch!). It's not just the screen you have to watch out for, its converted panel vans, these are the vehicles that left the factory as a delivery van and have had windows "cut" into them. When the hole is cut for the window, the bare metal isn't often primed or painted so the first time it rains the water runs behind the seal and sits there rotting the metal so watch out for bubbles around these windows.

== Front wheel arches ==

Volkswagen in there infinite wisdom put some expansion tanks in the front wheel arches for their "wacky" fuel tank design (more later), trouble is that they are a bit of a water trap and hold mud (therefore water) against the interior of the arch. Regular washing is the answer here but if its already taken hold then watch out for M.O.T failures as it lies within the prescribed 30 cm of a seat belt mounting. So check under the matting around the seat belt mounts. Also watch out for the cab step as the rubber anti slip thing holds water underneath it also leading to rot.

== Rear wheel arches ==

Just because they have a seam around them, that's the worst bit, Oh and they are a real swine to fit as they disappear into the tub of the arch. Cab floor. Normally due to a leaking screen and water collecting under the rubber mat and not being able to get out, a cursory glance under the mat isn't going to go amiss, not that bad to repair, just watch out for the throttle cable conduit!!

== Fuel tank ==

A lot of people have rotten fuel tanks and they are blissfully unaware! you see the top of the tank is more or less flat and level with a valley pressed into it for clearance for the antique heating system on air-cooled models. Its not till you fill up over half way until you find out! You can imagine a conversation at the factory "oh no we can't fit this big numb hose between the body and the tank" says one designer "don't worry" says another " we'll put a big dent in the top of the tank and some silly tanks in the front arches, oh and we'll need lots of fiddly pipes too!!" so.. Anyway back to the point, the top of the tank is a big water trap, water sits there rusting the tank from the outside in. So a grovel around under the van is in order here, look for clean patches on the tank where the under seal and paint have been washed away by the leaking fuel, the tanks aren't that bad to replace Its just those damn fiddly pipes in the top that are a pain!, oh and please be aware that the earlier (pre '85 model year) tank are now deleted from VAG stock so a good second hand one or a later tank and filler neck must be fitted. Tanks are interchangeable between petrol and Diesel models except the 2.1 petrol which has a swirl pot for the injection system. New replacement tanks are available from the usual sources.

== Doors ==

Not many problems here, just the window winder knobs fall off just like the rest of the VW's of the same era. The use of later MK III polo style winders usually works. Window winder mechanisms wear, easy to repair. Doors are interchangeable between years.

== Tailgate ==

Not may problems here either, later (post '85) models seem to rust a little on the inner edge by the striker mechanism, locks seize from lack of use. The struts that hold up the tailgate loose their strength but are quick, easy and inexpensive to replace. Tailgates are interchangeable although there are differences between early and late, the lock aperture for one is larger on later models.

== Sliding door ==

(Side loading door). These especially the commercials rot a little along the bottom edge, earlier ones (pre '85) are by design difficult to close without slamming them, this is one of the things that was picked up by most owners when the vehicle was launched back in 1979 but it took VW 5 years to rectify, also watch out for worn door runner bearings resulting in a less than smooth operation of the door and are quite expensive from VW, again good second hand ones are the way forward. Early and late door are not interchangeable, something to think about when purchasing a replacement. Door handles are also different as are the hinges. Early door handles are getting hard to find, expect to pay over the odds.

== Running gear ==

In my opinion is quite a good strong setup and doesn't give that much trouble. Most were fitted with a brake servo to aid you weary leg but some early 1600's came sans servo but still pull up well compared to a polo!

== Front suspension ==

There were two systems used, the early style with pressed steel lower wishbones and the later with a cast (forged?) lower wishbones, Im not too sure why they changed them, maybe they weren't strong enough but what ever the reason the two systems suffered the same problems, broken anti roll bar link arms, the earlier cranked ones break off at the top of the thread and at around £40 each they aren't cheap but on the plus side they are quite easy to repair. Upper wishbone inner bushes also wear, be careful if you tackle replacement as the bolt that secures the wishbone to the body also sets the camber angle for your steering geometry and if you malechicken that up you in deep doodoo as you need all manner of fancy machinery to reset it! Upper ball joint also wear but are dead easy to replace.

== Rear suspension ==

The rear trailing arm has been know to rust through in places, have a scrape of the seams and the spring cup, if lowering your van then be aware that you will gain lots of negative camber, this is adjustable if you can get the bolts undone! they do seize into the metal bush sleeve. Syncro 16" Syncro arms are longer to cope with the increase in suspension height, thus not interchangeable with 2WD models. Rear wheel bearing do tend to have a small amount of linear movement, this is normal and not generally cause for alarm.

== Front brakes ==

Again two systems used, the front brakes were robbed from the "bay window" and used on the T3 until 6/'86, bleed nipples fall off due to corrosion. The pistons leak when the front wheel bearings are left unadjusted for long periods. Flexible brake hoses are very long, sometimes known to foul parts of the body and suspension, also prone to cracking and bubbling up. Later brakes "feel" better. The brake disc carries the wheel bearing so if you are replacing front brake discs remember that you will also need to purchase wheel bearing kits too. Rear brakes. The automatic adjusters never seem to work as they should, one of the tags on the back plates corrode and fall off and that's about it, nothing is hard to replace, cables are straight forward to do. Rear brake adjuster bars wear which don't allow the rear brakes to adjust as they should, this can be rectified by clever filing of the bar.

== Gearbox ==

4 and 5 speed manual gearboxes were available. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Differential bearings tend to get a bit noisy around 100K miles, 5 speed boxes get stuck in gear due to synchromesh failure but VW modified the parts from about '88 on. Pinion oils seals go hard and leak oil out of the bell housing, the seal is cheap but you have to take the gearbox out. 5 speed boxes generally aren't that good or as high geared as people think, its just the ratio's are closer together. Don't be put off by a 4 speed box.

== Other Stuff ==

Just stuff that doesn't come under the above headings! Electric's.They don't seem that bad Its just when someone has been messing with them!, have a poke under the dash and look for scotch locks (or bodge locks as I like to call them) they are those little blue connectors that you squeeze together with pliers, they are OK but...... The printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster is prone to burning out where it goes around corners and the connector that connects it to the loom often corrodes and causes trouble and at 70GBP2004 for just the PCB well Its not a risk you want to take so make sure all the warning lights and the dash illumination works, if the fuel gauge doesn't work it could be a few things and could lead to fuel tank removal so check it! If the horn doesn't work Its normally a little earth strap at the lower end of the steering column.

== Engine ==

There are a few different engines to choose from, to be brutally honest non of the engines are brilliant, Its just which one do you go for, I will try to list as many know faults of each engine to give you some idea of what to watch out for. I'll only concentrate on the engines available in the UK although the others are based around the same engine anyway. ALL of the petrol engine available for use in the UK are capable of running on unleaded fuel with little or no alterations.

=== Air-cooled - petrol ===

==== CT 1,6l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82, 37Kw / 50bhp ====

Loosely based around the type 1 VW engine with added hydraulic tappets, removable spin on type oil filter, cooling fan on end of crank. Very under powered at 50hp, but quite economical. Watch out for cracked cylinder heads as these thing eat them, make sure thermostat is opening as if it isn't then your looking at a cooked engine.

==== CU 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51Kw / 70bhp ====

The better of the two air-cooled models, based around the older type 4 engines that were fitted to type 4 VW's as well as the later bay windows vans. Engine features modified cylinder heads with "D" shaped exhaust ports, hydraulic tappets and spin on oil filter, cooling system is more or less the same as the earlier bay with slightly different fan housing and heat exchangers. Twin Solex carburetor are fitted from factory but are troublesome and prone to air leaks and worn throttle shafts at around 80 000miles, replacement is the only cure. Leaking push rod tubes are quite easy to repair as the cylinder head no longer needs removal, quite a good, strong engine but again, check thermostat operation, smoke emitted and endfloat of crank (Quite hard to check as there is a mesh guard over the fan).Heat exchangers are very expensive at well over £100 each to replace, check for fumes in cab and that the outer cases are in good nick. Not very economical!

==== CV 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51kw / 70bhp injection for USA ====

(see CU) water-cooled - petrol. First a note on water boxers or wasserboxers (German term) as they are sometime known, These engines suffer from cylinder head bolts that corrode due to the antifreeze not being changed at the correct interval, after much conflab and deliberation between the members of Club 80-90 we came to the conclusion that no matter what antifreeze is used it must be replaced every 2 years, Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors which break down in time to the point where they are no longer effective and internal corrosion of the engines occurs (head bolts). In the US, VW of America recognised this problem and gave vanagon owners a discount on a new engine, VW of America also said that the use of pink antifreeze (G12) would be better as it was phosphorous free, there's loads of chemistry behind all this and to be frank It's a bit baffling, you can read what American vanagon owners have to say here and some more here. If I were you I would check if the van you are looking at has had the antifreeze changed and if not then state these facts. At the end of the day as one club member said," the head bolts won't grow back" which is a good statement! and prepare for an engine replacement at somepoint in the future, as the bolts once corroded and broken are nigh on impossible to remove. Don't get me wrong, a lot of the engines with leaky head gaskets can be repaired, most of the time the head bolt nuts do pull and a repair can take place, you just need to be armed with the risks!

==== DF 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 44Kw / 60bhp ====

Check head bolts aren't missing! Check for signs of head gasket leaks (Black seal between the crankcase and head) not bad engines apart from that, the DF does feel under powered even in empty van form so imagine what's its like with a camper interior and a couple of people in there, no real problems except for the one mentioned above.

==== DG 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 57Kw / 78bhp ====

The 1900cc to go for if you have a choice,again, headbolts and gaskets. Later exhaust systems, the one with the pipes everywhere, they can be very expensive to buy and time consuming to replace as some of the studs break away from the head and clearance to get a drill in is tight on some parts.

==== MV 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 85on 70kw / 95bhp or 89bhp with autobox ====

Cats lower power output and aren't needed for the MOT till 1993 so if its got one you can quite legally remove it (UK). Injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head bolts and gaskets!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

==== DJ 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection from 85on 82kw / 112bhp ====

The higher output of all the engines, these fly! again injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head blots!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

SS 2,1l 4-cyl.Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 89on 68kw / 92bhp.
GW 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection 83 to 85 66kw / 90bhp.
EY 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 85on 40kw / 55bhp.
SP 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 86on 54kw / 73bhp for Swiss export .
DH 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 84 to 85 61kw / 83bhp.
SR 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 86on 64kw / 87bhp for Swiss export.

=== Diesel - Water-cooled ===

The following engines are based around the VW Golf Diesel engine that first showed its face in the 70's as a 1500 (I think!) In time it has increased in size, output and complexity. Parts and replacement engines are quite easy to come by as you can get them from other cars including VW Golfs, Passats, Jetta and some Audi's. To get the engine to fit in the Transporters lower engine bay they have been leaned over on their side at a 50° angle as opposed to the 15° it is normally mounted at so if you do want to replace the engine either with another diesel or a petrol engine (quite popular) then you will need the sump, oil pick up pipe and some other bits from the diesel engine. Check for anything other than a little smoke, you expect a little smoke from a diesel but not excessive, this could indicate worn injection parts which can get very expensive. Check for good cold starting.
Black smoke indicates unburned fuel, could be as simple as a blocked air filter but could also be dribbling injectors, incorrect injection pump timing or a faulty pump, could be cheap, could be expensive, be careful! White smoke indicates low combustion temperature, again could be pump timing but could also be a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is the same as a petrol, worn engine, turbo seals, valve stem oil seals, worn piston rings, none are cheap!! Another thing to consider is that most of these vans will have been a working vehicle at some point driven by people who couldn't give a monkeys about them, check service books for timing belt replacements as a snapped belt will wreck your cylinder head.

==== CS 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 81 to 87 37kw / 50bhp ====

This was the first water-cooled engine VW put in the Transporter back in 1981, from the beginning of the development of the Transporter VW always had in mind putting a water-cooled engine in it, why else would it have that massive grille and all that space behind it? To be fair these engines are very slow, you don't often see them either, They were available when diesels weren't very popular in the UK I suppose. These engines are quite economical though but are often in poor condition and worn due to the owners having to drive them hard to get anything like reasonable performance from their measly engine.

==== KY 1,7l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 87on 42Kw / 57bhp ====

These engines are slightly better but still unpopular. Exclusive 1.7 Diesel engine parts can be expensive due to its unpopularity.

==== JX 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright turbo diesel from 85on 51Kw / 70bhp ====

To me this is the engine to go for but still has problems, Cylinder heads crack but replacements are reasonably priced even from VW (about 300GBP2004 complete). They are as quick as the 2.0 air-cooled engine and twice as economical, there are two turbo's fitted to this lump, the earlier Garret and the later KKK.

Misc tips and tricks buyers guide

2007-11-13T22:25:15Z

VWlewis: /* Front wheel arches */

[http://members.tripod.com/%7Ewetwesties/buyers.txt Also see used VW buyers checklist]

-----
check under the footwell carpet for rot, and in the dash pod for corrosion on the electrics in there, may be an idea to check all lights and indicators are switching on OK and fuel+heat guages register if the electrics have moisture in them these may be faulty. Something to watch for if there has been water ingress is has it started to rot either the interior, beds and units etc. Or whether it is puddling in the sills. Also might be an idea to remove the lower fridge vent to see inside, check with the owner first as when you unscrew this the screw holes may just disintegrate, if not try and get a look at this area from the insidethrough the cupboards. take a small mirror and torch and see if you can get a look at how much rot there is in there. The fridge condensates here and typically there will be some rot, just how much will determine weher you can slow its progress as I did with waxoyl or wether you be on the end of a welding bill in a years time. Try and get a feel for the seatbelt mouting points, the inner points are hard to see on the fronts you may need to feel for them. The bottom of the battery tray under the drivers/passengers seat and the area below the rear air vents to the engine are also favourite rot spots. surface rust is treatable and unavoidable some might say, I'm talking corrosion to the point where its holed or the metal has become brittle.

-----

Buyers guide taken from http://www.brickyard.co.uk
Written by Simon Baxter of http://www.brickwerks.co.uk / http://www.sjbaxter.co.uk

I have put this guide together to try and help those people that are thinking of buying a T3/vanagon/wedge/brick or what ever you want to call them, but also as a bit of a guide of what people that already own them of things to watch out for.
I am not the keeper of all knowledge when it comes to T3's but I would say I know a little more than others, so if you feel you
have anything to add to this guide then please let me know or if you feel that I am wrong also please also let me know (I am a
big boy now, I can take it!). I have based this guide on my time owning, driving and repairing other peoples vehicles and looking at T3's in scrap yards and at VW shows.

== Body ==

This along with the engine is the biggest deciding point of your purchase so it's imperative that's its in good condition, spending a little time inspecting your propective purchase may save you a hell of a lot of money in the long run. Buy on body condition.

== Seams ==

As you are probably aware, T3's tend to rust a little around the body seams, due to modern manufacturing techniques, body tolerances and panel fit have come along way since the "bay window" van ('68-'79) but to the cost of rust on our vans, I believe it to be because the seams aren't big enough to be able to get a sponge in properly to clean them out, the flexible sealer cracks, salt and road dirt get in and hey presto...rust. Once its in there your going to have great difficulty getting it out, so be warned, walk away from a van with rot around the seams unless you are confident you can get rid of it. Most vans are now getting to that age where a little crispiness around the edges is inevitable, also check that all the seams that are meant to be there actually are! A lot of repairers either weld the seams up or fill over them, it WILL be hiding something!

== Gutters ==

With the standard height of a T3 it is quite difficult to wash the roof and gutters so they are often overlooked and hence
get blocked which holds water against the panels which eventually leads to corrosion. Roof racks also scratch the paint around
this vulnerable area and impede the free flow of water away, so when your going to inspect a van, take something to stand on
and take a good look at the state of the guttering (or cantrail to give it its correct name). It is a good idea to give the gutters a good clean out once in a while with some cutting compound or T-cut and give them a thin layer of protective wax such as Finigans Waxoyle. Some of the lesser camper conversions (who will remain nameless!) tend to rot around where the hinges for the side opening roof attaches, and tend to break away. If your looking at a camper then check the area around the gutters with the roof up.

== Windows ==

Sounds silly doesn't it?, well I'll explain... its not actually the windows, rather its frame or surround, windscreen
surrounds are prone to corrosion in the bottom corners normally noticed by a small pool of water in the foot wells after rain,
although you can't go pulling someone's windscreen out when you are thinking of buying it you can probably get away with lifting
the corner of the rubber with a small screw driver and having a little sneaky peaky underneath for brown crispy bits, or alternatively you can have a look at the underside from under the dashboard (so remember your torch!). It's not just the screen you have to watch out for, its converted panel vans, these are the vehicles that left the factory as a delivery van and have had windows "cut" into them. When the hole is cut for the window, the bare metal isn't often primed or painted so the first time it rains the water runs behind the seal and sits there rotting the metal so watch out for bubbles around these windows.

== Front wheel arches ==

Volkswagen in there infinite wisdom put some expansion tanks in the front wheel arches for their "wacky" fuel tank design (more later), trouble is that they are a bit of a water trap and hold mud (therefore water) against the interior of the arch. Regular washing is the answer here but if its already taken hold then watch out for M.O.T failures as it lies within the prescribed 30 cm of a seat belt mounting. So check under the matting around the seat belt mounts. Also watch out for the cab step as the rubber anti slip thing holds water underneath it also leading to rot.

Factory fitted windows should give you no problems. If they have the chrome inserts in the rubber, these tend to fade and lose their finish but can be replaced easily with the right tools. Some of these parts are still available from VW (allow for a budget of 100GBP2007 for rubbers and inserts) but alternative sources of similar parts can be used.

== Rear wheel arches ==

Just because they have a seam around them, that's the worst bit, Oh and they are a real swine to fit as they disappear into the tub of the arch. Cab floor. Normally due to a leaking screen and water collecting under the rubber mat and not being able to get out, a cursory glance under the mat isn't going to go amiss, not that bad to repair, just watch out for the throttle cable conduit!!

== Fuel tank ==

A lot of people have rotten fuel tanks and they are blissfully unaware! you see the top of the tank is more or less flat and level with a valley pressed into it for clearance for the antique heating system on air-cooled models. Its not till you fill up over half way until you find out! You can imagine a conversation at the factory "oh no we can't fit this big numb hose between the body and the tank" says one designer "don't worry" says another " we'll put a big dent in the top of the tank and some silly tanks in the front arches, oh and we'll need lots of fiddly pipes too!!" so.. Anyway back to the point, the top of the tank is a big water trap, water sits there rusting the tank from the outside in. So a grovel around under the van is in order here, look for clean patches on the tank where the under seal and paint have been washed away by the leaking fuel, the tanks aren't that bad to replace Its just those damn fiddly pipes in the top that are a pain!, oh and please be aware that the earlier (pre '85 model year) tank are now deleted from VAG stock so a good second hand one or a later tank and filler neck must be fitted. Tanks are interchangeable between petrol and Diesel models except the 2.1 petrol which has a swirl pot for the injection system. New replacement tanks are available from the usual sources.

== Doors ==

Not many problems here, just the window winder knobs fall off just like the rest of the VW's of the same era. The use of later MK III polo style winders usually works. Window winder mechanisms wear, easy to repair. Doors are interchangeable between years.

== Tailgate ==

Not may problems here either, later (post '85) models seem to rust a little on the inner edge by the striker mechanism, locks seize from lack of use. The struts that hold up the tailgate loose their strength but are quick, easy and inexpensive to replace. Tailgates are interchangeable although there are differences between early and late, the lock aperture for one is larger on later models.

== Sliding door ==

(Side loading door). These especially the commercials rot a little along the bottom edge, earlier ones (pre '85) are by design difficult to close without slamming them, this is one of the things that was picked up by most owners when the vehicle was launched back in 1979 but it took VW 5 years to rectify, also watch out for worn door runner bearings resulting in a less than smooth operation of the door and are quite expensive from VW, again good second hand ones are the way forward. Early and late door are not interchangeable, something to think about when purchasing a replacement. Door handles are also different as are the hinges. Early door handles are getting hard to find, expect to pay over the odds.

== Running gear ==

In my opinion is quite a good strong setup and doesn't give that much trouble. Most were fitted with a brake servo to aid you weary leg but some early 1600's came sans servo but still pull up well compared to a polo!

== Front suspension ==

There were two systems used, the early style with pressed steel lower wishbones and the later with a cast (forged?) lower wishbones, Im not too sure why they changed them, maybe they weren't strong enough but what ever the reason the two systems suffered the same problems, broken anti roll bar link arms, the earlier cranked ones break off at the top of the thread and at around £40 each they aren't cheap but on the plus side they are quite easy to repair. Upper wishbone inner bushes also wear, be careful if you tackle replacement as the bolt that secures the wishbone to the body also sets the camber angle for your steering geometry and if you malechicken that up you in deep doodoo as you need all manner of fancy machinery to reset it! Upper ball joint also wear but are dead easy to replace.

== Rear suspension ==

The rear trailing arm has been know to rust through in places, have a scrape of the seams and the spring cup, if lowering your van then be aware that you will gain lots of negative camber, this is adjustable if you can get the bolts undone! they do seize into the metal bush sleeve. Syncro 16" Syncro arms are longer to cope with the increase in suspension height, thus not interchangeable with 2WD models. Rear wheel bearing do tend to have a small amount of linear movement, this is normal and not generally cause for alarm.

== Front brakes ==

Again two systems used, the front brakes were robbed from the "bay window" and used on the T3 until 6/'86, bleed nipples fall off due to corrosion. The pistons leak when the front wheel bearings are left unadjusted for long periods. Flexible brake hoses are very long, sometimes known to foul parts of the body and suspension, also prone to cracking and bubbling up. Later brakes "feel" better. The brake disc carries the wheel bearing so if you are replacing front brake discs remember that you will also need to purchase wheel bearing kits too. Rear brakes. The automatic adjusters never seem to work as they should, one of the tags on the back plates corrode and fall off and that's about it, nothing is hard to replace, cables are straight forward to do. Rear brake adjuster bars wear which don't allow the rear brakes to adjust as they should, this can be rectified by clever filing of the bar.

== Gearbox ==

4 and 5 speed manual gearboxes were available. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Differential bearings tend to get a bit noisy around 100K miles, 5 speed boxes get stuck in gear due to synchromesh failure but VW modified the parts from about '88 on. Pinion oils seals go hard and leak oil out of the bell housing, the seal is cheap but you have to take the gearbox out. 5 speed boxes generally aren't that good or as high geared as people think, its just the ratio's are closer together. Don't be put off by a 4 speed box.

== Other Stuff ==

Just stuff that doesn't come under the above headings! Electric's.They don't seem that bad Its just when someone has been messing with them!, have a poke under the dash and look for scotch locks (or bodge locks as I like to call them) they are those little blue connectors that you squeeze together with pliers, they are OK but...... The printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster is prone to burning out where it goes around corners and the connector that connects it to the loom often corrodes and causes trouble and at 70GBP2004 for just the PCB well Its not a risk you want to take so make sure all the warning lights and the dash illumination works, if the fuel gauge doesn't work it could be a few things and could lead to fuel tank removal so check it! If the horn doesn't work Its normally a little earth strap at the lower end of the steering column.

== Engine ==

There are a few different engines to choose from, to be brutally honest non of the engines are brilliant, Its just which one do you go for, I will try to list as many know faults of each engine to give you some idea of what to watch out for. I'll only concentrate on the engines available in the UK although the others are based around the same engine anyway. ALL of the petrol engine available for use in the UK are capable of running on unleaded fuel with little or no alterations.

=== Air-cooled - petrol ===

==== CT 1,6l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82, 37Kw / 50bhp ====

Loosely based around the type 1 VW engine with added hydraulic tappets, removable spin on type oil filter, cooling fan on end of crank. Very under powered at 50hp, but quite economical. Watch out for cracked cylinder heads as these thing eat them, make sure thermostat is opening as if it isn't then your looking at a cooked engine.

==== CU 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51Kw / 70bhp ====

The better of the two air-cooled models, based around the older type 4 engines that were fitted to type 4 VW's as well as the later bay windows vans. Engine features modified cylinder heads with "D" shaped exhaust ports, hydraulic tappets and spin on oil filter, cooling system is more or less the same as the earlier bay with slightly different fan housing and heat exchangers. Twin Solex carburetor are fitted from factory but are troublesome and prone to air leaks and worn throttle shafts at around 80 000miles, replacement is the only cure. Leaking push rod tubes are quite easy to repair as the cylinder head no longer needs removal, quite a good, strong engine but again, check thermostat operation, smoke emitted and endfloat of crank (Quite hard to check as there is a mesh guard over the fan).Heat exchangers are very expensive at well over £100 each to replace, check for fumes in cab and that the outer cases are in good nick. Not very economical!

==== CV 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51kw / 70bhp injection for USA ====

(see CU) water-cooled - petrol. First a note on water boxers or wasserboxers (German term) as they are sometime known, These engines suffer from cylinder head bolts that corrode due to the antifreeze not being changed at the correct interval, after much conflab and deliberation between the members of Club 80-90 we came to the conclusion that no matter what antifreeze is used it must be replaced every 2 years, Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors which break down in time to the point where they are no longer effective and internal corrosion of the engines occurs (head bolts). In the US, VW of America recognised this problem and gave vanagon owners a discount on a new engine, VW of America also said that the use of pink antifreeze (G12) would be better as it was phosphorous free, there's loads of chemistry behind all this and to be frank It's a bit baffling, you can read what American vanagon owners have to say here and some more here. If I were you I would check if the van you are looking at has had the antifreeze changed and if not then state these facts. At the end of the day as one club member said," the head bolts won't grow back" which is a good statement! and prepare for an engine replacement at somepoint in the future, as the bolts once corroded and broken are nigh on impossible to remove. Don't get me wrong, a lot of the engines with leaky head gaskets can be repaired, most of the time the head bolt nuts do pull and a repair can take place, you just need to be armed with the risks!

==== DF 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 44Kw / 60bhp ====

Check head bolts aren't missing! Check for signs of head gasket leaks (Black seal between the crankcase and head) not bad engines apart from that, the DF does feel under powered even in empty van form so imagine what's its like with a camper interior and a couple of people in there, no real problems except for the one mentioned above.

==== DG 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 57Kw / 78bhp ====

The 1900cc to go for if you have a choice,again, headbolts and gaskets. Later exhaust systems, the one with the pipes everywhere, they can be very expensive to buy and time consuming to replace as some of the studs break away from the head and clearance to get a drill in is tight on some parts.

==== MV 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 85on 70kw / 95bhp or 89bhp with autobox ====

Cats lower power output and aren't needed for the MOT till 1993 so if its got one you can quite legally remove it (UK). Injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head bolts and gaskets!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

==== DJ 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection from 85on 82kw / 112bhp ====

The higher output of all the engines, these fly! again injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head blots!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

SS 2,1l 4-cyl.Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 89on 68kw / 92bhp.
GW 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection 83 to 85 66kw / 90bhp.
EY 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 85on 40kw / 55bhp.
SP 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 86on 54kw / 73bhp for Swiss export .
DH 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 84 to 85 61kw / 83bhp.
SR 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 86on 64kw / 87bhp for Swiss export.

=== Diesel - Water-cooled ===

The following engines are based around the VW Golf Diesel engine that first showed its face in the 70's as a 1500 (I think!) In time it has increased in size, output and complexity. Parts and replacement engines are quite easy to come by as you can get them from other cars including VW Golfs, Passats, Jetta and some Audi's. To get the engine to fit in the Transporters lower engine bay they have been leaned over on their side at a 50° angle as opposed to the 15° it is normally mounted at so if you do want to replace the engine either with another diesel or a petrol engine (quite popular) then you will need the sump, oil pick up pipe and some other bits from the diesel engine. Check for anything other than a little smoke, you expect a little smoke from a diesel but not excessive, this could indicate worn injection parts which can get very expensive. Check for good cold starting.
Black smoke indicates unburned fuel, could be as simple as a blocked air filter but could also be dribbling injectors, incorrect injection pump timing or a faulty pump, could be cheap, could be expensive, be careful! White smoke indicates low combustion temperature, again could be pump timing but could also be a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is the same as a petrol, worn engine, turbo seals, valve stem oil seals, worn piston rings, none are cheap!! Another thing to consider is that most of these vans will have been a working vehicle at some point driven by people who couldn't give a monkeys about them, check service books for timing belt replacements as a snapped belt will wreck your cylinder head.

==== CS 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 81 to 87 37kw / 50bhp ====

This was the first water-cooled engine VW put in the Transporter back in 1981, from the beginning of the development of the Transporter VW always had in mind putting a water-cooled engine in it, why else would it have that massive grille and all that space behind it? To be fair these engines are very slow, you don't often see them either, They were available when diesels weren't very popular in the UK I suppose. These engines are quite economical though but are often in poor condition and worn due to the owners having to drive them hard to get anything like reasonable performance from their measly engine.

==== KY 1,7l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 87on 42Kw / 57bhp ====

These engines are slightly better but still unpopular. Exclusive 1.7 Diesel engine parts can be expensive due to its unpopularity.

==== JX 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright turbo diesel from 85on 51Kw / 70bhp ====

To me this is the engine to go for but still has problems, Cylinder heads crack but replacements are reasonably priced even from VW (about 300GBP2004 complete). They are as quick as the 2.0 air-cooled engine and twice as economical, there are two turbo's fitted to this lump, the earlier Garret and the later KKK.

Misc tips and tricks buyers guide

2007-11-13T22:20:20Z

VWlewis: /* Doors */

[http://members.tripod.com/%7Ewetwesties/buyers.txt Also see used VW buyers checklist]

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check under the footwell carpet for rot, and in the dash pod for corrosion on the electrics in there, may be an idea to check all lights and indicators are switching on OK and fuel+heat guages register if the electrics have moisture in them these may be faulty. Something to watch for if there has been water ingress is has it started to rot either the interior, beds and units etc. Or whether it is puddling in the sills. Also might be an idea to remove the lower fridge vent to see inside, check with the owner first as when you unscrew this the screw holes may just disintegrate, if not try and get a look at this area from the insidethrough the cupboards. take a small mirror and torch and see if you can get a look at how much rot there is in there. The fridge condensates here and typically there will be some rot, just how much will determine weher you can slow its progress as I did with waxoyl or wether you be on the end of a welding bill in a years time. Try and get a feel for the seatbelt mouting points, the inner points are hard to see on the fronts you may need to feel for them. The bottom of the battery tray under the drivers/passengers seat and the area below the rear air vents to the engine are also favourite rot spots. surface rust is treatable and unavoidable some might say, I'm talking corrosion to the point where its holed or the metal has become brittle.

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Buyers guide taken from http://www.brickyard.co.uk
Written by Simon Baxter of http://www.brickwerks.co.uk / http://www.sjbaxter.co.uk

I have put this guide together to try and help those people that are thinking of buying a T3/vanagon/wedge/brick or what ever you want to call them, but also as a bit of a guide of what people that already own them of things to watch out for.
I am not the keeper of all knowledge when it comes to T3's but I would say I know a little more than others, so if you feel you
have anything to add to this guide then please let me know or if you feel that I am wrong also please also let me know (I am a
big boy now, I can take it!). I have based this guide on my time owning, driving and repairing other peoples vehicles and looking at T3's in scrap yards and at VW shows.

== Body ==

This along with the engine is the biggest deciding point of your purchase so it's imperative that's its in good condition, spending a little time inspecting your propective purchase may save you a hell of a lot of money in the long run. Buy on body condition.

== Seams ==

As you are probably aware, T3's tend to rust a little around the body seams, due to modern manufacturing techniques, body tolerances and panel fit have come along way since the "bay window" van ('68-'79) but to the cost of rust on our vans, I believe it to be because the seams aren't big enough to be able to get a sponge in properly to clean them out, the flexible sealer cracks, salt and road dirt get in and hey presto...rust. Once its in there your going to have great difficulty getting it out, so be warned, walk away from a van with rot around the seams unless you are confident you can get rid of it. Most vans are now getting to that age where a little crispiness around the edges is inevitable, also check that all the seams that are meant to be there actually are! A lot of repairers either weld the seams up or fill over them, it WILL be hiding something!

== Gutters ==

With the standard height of a T3 it is quite difficult to wash the roof and gutters so they are often overlooked and hence
get blocked which holds water against the panels which eventually leads to corrosion. Roof racks also scratch the paint around
this vulnerable area and impede the free flow of water away, so when your going to inspect a van, take something to stand on
and take a good look at the state of the guttering (or cantrail to give it its correct name). It is a good idea to give the gutters a good clean out once in a while with some cutting compound or T-cut and give them a thin layer of protective wax such as Finigans Waxoyle. Some of the lesser camper conversions (who will remain nameless!) tend to rot around where the hinges for the side opening roof attaches, and tend to break away. If your looking at a camper then check the area around the gutters with the roof up.

== Windows ==

Sounds silly doesn't it?, well I'll explain... its not actually the windows, rather its frame or surround, windscreen
surrounds are prone to corrosion in the bottom corners normally noticed by a small pool of water in the foot wells after rain,
although you can't go pulling someone's windscreen out when you are thinking of buying it you can probably get away with lifting
the corner of the rubber with a small screw driver and having a little sneaky peaky underneath for brown crispy bits, or alternatively you can have a look at the underside from under the dashboard (so remember your torch!). It's not just the screen you have to watch out for, its converted panel vans, these are the vehicles that left the factory as a delivery van and have had windows "cut" into them. When the hole is cut for the window, the bare metal isn't often primed or painted so the first time it rains the water runs behind the seal and sits there rotting the metal so watch out for bubbles around these windows.

== Front wheel arches ==

Volkswagen in there infinite wisdom put some expansion tanks in the front wheel arches for their "wacky" fuel tank design (more later), trouble is that they are a bit of a water trap and hold mud (therefore water) against the interior of the arch. Regular washing is the answer here but if its already taken hold then watch out for M.O.T failures as it lies within the prescribed 30 cm of a seat belt mounting. So check under the matting around the seat belt mounts. Also watch out for the cab step as the rubber anti slip thing holds water underneath it also leading to rot.

== Rear wheel arches ==

Just because they have a seam around them, that's the worst bit, Oh and they are a real swine to fit as they disappear into the tub of the arch. Cab floor. Normally due to a leaking screen and water collecting under the rubber mat and not being able to get out, a cursory glance under the mat isn't going to go amiss, not that bad to repair, just watch out for the throttle cable conduit!!

== Fuel tank ==

A lot of people have rotten fuel tanks and they are blissfully unaware! you see the top of the tank is more or less flat and level with a valley pressed into it for clearance for the antique heating system on air-cooled models. Its not till you fill up over half way until you find out! You can imagine a conversation at the factory "oh no we can't fit this big numb hose between the body and the tank" says one designer "don't worry" says another " we'll put a big dent in the top of the tank and some silly tanks in the front arches, oh and we'll need lots of fiddly pipes too!!" so.. Anyway back to the point, the top of the tank is a big water trap, water sits there rusting the tank from the outside in. So a grovel around under the van is in order here, look for clean patches on the tank where the under seal and paint have been washed away by the leaking fuel, the tanks aren't that bad to replace Its just those damn fiddly pipes in the top that are a pain!, oh and please be aware that the earlier (pre '85 model year) tank are now deleted from VAG stock so a good second hand one or a later tank and filler neck must be fitted. Tanks are interchangeable between petrol and Diesel models except the 2.1 petrol which has a swirl pot for the injection system. New replacement tanks are available from the usual sources.

== Doors ==

Not many problems here, just the window winder knobs fall off just like the rest of the VW's of the same era. The use of later MK III polo style winders usually works. Window winder mechanisms wear, easy to repair. Doors are interchangeable between years.

== Tailgate ==

Not may problems here either, later (post '85) models seem to rust a little on the inner edge by the striker mechanism, locks seize from lack of use. The struts that hold up the tailgate loose their strength but are quick, easy and inexpensive to replace. Tailgates are interchangeable although there are differences between early and late, the lock aperture for one is larger on later models.

== Sliding door ==

(Side loading door). These especially the commercials rot a little along the bottom edge, earlier ones (pre '85) are by design difficult to close without slamming them, this is one of the things that was picked up by most owners when the vehicle was launched back in 1979 but it took VW 5 years to rectify, also watch out for worn door runner bearings resulting in a less than smooth operation of the door and are quite expensive from VW, again good second hand ones are the way forward. Early and late door are not interchangeable, something to think about when purchasing a replacement. Door handles are also different as are the hinges. Early door handles are getting hard to find, expect to pay over the odds.

== Running gear ==

In my opinion is quite a good strong setup and doesn't give that much trouble. Most were fitted with a brake servo to aid you weary leg but some early 1600's came sans servo but still pull up well compared to a polo!

== Front suspension ==

There were two systems used, the early style with pressed steel lower wishbones and the later with a cast (forged?) lower wishbones, Im not too sure why they changed them, maybe they weren't strong enough but what ever the reason the two systems suffered the same problems, broken anti roll bar link arms, the earlier cranked ones break off at the top of the thread and at around £40 each they aren't cheap but on the plus side they are quite easy to repair. Upper wishbone inner bushes also wear, be careful if you tackle replacement as the bolt that secures the wishbone to the body also sets the camber angle for your steering geometry and if you malechicken that up you in deep doodoo as you need all manner of fancy machinery to reset it! Upper ball joint also wear but are dead easy to replace.

== Rear suspension ==

The rear trailing arm has been know to rust through in places, have a scrape of the seams and the spring cup, if lowering your van then be aware that you will gain lots of negative camber, this is adjustable if you can get the bolts undone! they do seize into the metal bush sleeve. Syncro 16" Syncro arms are longer to cope with the increase in suspension height, thus not interchangeable with 2WD models. Rear wheel bearing do tend to have a small amount of linear movement, this is normal and not generally cause for alarm.

== Front brakes ==

Again two systems used, the front brakes were robbed from the "bay window" and used on the T3 until 6/'86, bleed nipples fall off due to corrosion. The pistons leak when the front wheel bearings are left unadjusted for long periods. Flexible brake hoses are very long, sometimes known to foul parts of the body and suspension, also prone to cracking and bubbling up. Later brakes "feel" better. The brake disc carries the wheel bearing so if you are replacing front brake discs remember that you will also need to purchase wheel bearing kits too. Rear brakes. The automatic adjusters never seem to work as they should, one of the tags on the back plates corrode and fall off and that's about it, nothing is hard to replace, cables are straight forward to do. Rear brake adjuster bars wear which don't allow the rear brakes to adjust as they should, this can be rectified by clever filing of the bar.

== Gearbox ==

4 and 5 speed manual gearboxes were available. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Differential bearings tend to get a bit noisy around 100K miles, 5 speed boxes get stuck in gear due to synchromesh failure but VW modified the parts from about '88 on. Pinion oils seals go hard and leak oil out of the bell housing, the seal is cheap but you have to take the gearbox out. 5 speed boxes generally aren't that good or as high geared as people think, its just the ratio's are closer together. Don't be put off by a 4 speed box.

== Other Stuff ==

Just stuff that doesn't come under the above headings! Electric's.They don't seem that bad Its just when someone has been messing with them!, have a poke under the dash and look for scotch locks (or bodge locks as I like to call them) they are those little blue connectors that you squeeze together with pliers, they are OK but...... The printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster is prone to burning out where it goes around corners and the connector that connects it to the loom often corrodes and causes trouble and at 70GBP2004 for just the PCB well Its not a risk you want to take so make sure all the warning lights and the dash illumination works, if the fuel gauge doesn't work it could be a few things and could lead to fuel tank removal so check it! If the horn doesn't work Its normally a little earth strap at the lower end of the steering column.

== Engine ==

There are a few different engines to choose from, to be brutally honest non of the engines are brilliant, Its just which one do you go for, I will try to list as many know faults of each engine to give you some idea of what to watch out for. I'll only concentrate on the engines available in the UK although the others are based around the same engine anyway. ALL of the petrol engine available for use in the UK are capable of running on unleaded fuel with little or no alterations.

=== Air-cooled - petrol ===

==== CT 1,6l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82, 37Kw / 50bhp ====

Loosely based around the type 1 VW engine with added hydraulic tappets, removable spin on type oil filter, cooling fan on end of crank. Very under powered at 50hp, but quite economical. Watch out for cracked cylinder heads as these thing eat them, make sure thermostat is opening as if it isn't then your looking at a cooked engine.

==== CU 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51Kw / 70bhp ====

The better of the two air-cooled models, based around the older type 4 engines that were fitted to type 4 VW's as well as the later bay windows vans. Engine features modified cylinder heads with "D" shaped exhaust ports, hydraulic tappets and spin on oil filter, cooling system is more or less the same as the earlier bay with slightly different fan housing and heat exchangers. Twin Solex carburetor are fitted from factory but are troublesome and prone to air leaks and worn throttle shafts at around 80 000miles, replacement is the only cure. Leaking push rod tubes are quite easy to repair as the cylinder head no longer needs removal, quite a good, strong engine but again, check thermostat operation, smoke emitted and endfloat of crank (Quite hard to check as there is a mesh guard over the fan).Heat exchangers are very expensive at well over £100 each to replace, check for fumes in cab and that the outer cases are in good nick. Not very economical!

==== CV 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51kw / 70bhp injection for USA ====

(see CU) water-cooled - petrol. First a note on water boxers or wasserboxers (German term) as they are sometime known, These engines suffer from cylinder head bolts that corrode due to the antifreeze not being changed at the correct interval, after much conflab and deliberation between the members of Club 80-90 we came to the conclusion that no matter what antifreeze is used it must be replaced every 2 years, Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors which break down in time to the point where they are no longer effective and internal corrosion of the engines occurs (head bolts). In the US, VW of America recognised this problem and gave vanagon owners a discount on a new engine, VW of America also said that the use of pink antifreeze (G12) would be better as it was phosphorous free, there's loads of chemistry behind all this and to be frank It's a bit baffling, you can read what American vanagon owners have to say here and some more here. If I were you I would check if the van you are looking at has had the antifreeze changed and if not then state these facts. At the end of the day as one club member said," the head bolts won't grow back" which is a good statement! and prepare for an engine replacement at somepoint in the future, as the bolts once corroded and broken are nigh on impossible to remove. Don't get me wrong, a lot of the engines with leaky head gaskets can be repaired, most of the time the head bolt nuts do pull and a repair can take place, you just need to be armed with the risks!

==== DF 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 44Kw / 60bhp ====

Check head bolts aren't missing! Check for signs of head gasket leaks (Black seal between the crankcase and head) not bad engines apart from that, the DF does feel under powered even in empty van form so imagine what's its like with a camper interior and a couple of people in there, no real problems except for the one mentioned above.

==== DG 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 57Kw / 78bhp ====

The 1900cc to go for if you have a choice,again, headbolts and gaskets. Later exhaust systems, the one with the pipes everywhere, they can be very expensive to buy and time consuming to replace as some of the studs break away from the head and clearance to get a drill in is tight on some parts.

==== MV 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 85on 70kw / 95bhp or 89bhp with autobox ====

Cats lower power output and aren't needed for the MOT till 1993 so if its got one you can quite legally remove it (UK). Injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head bolts and gaskets!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

==== DJ 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection from 85on 82kw / 112bhp ====

The higher output of all the engines, these fly! again injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head blots!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

SS 2,1l 4-cyl.Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 89on 68kw / 92bhp.
GW 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection 83 to 85 66kw / 90bhp.
EY 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 85on 40kw / 55bhp.
SP 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 86on 54kw / 73bhp for Swiss export .
DH 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 84 to 85 61kw / 83bhp.
SR 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 86on 64kw / 87bhp for Swiss export.

=== Diesel - Water-cooled ===

The following engines are based around the VW Golf Diesel engine that first showed its face in the 70's as a 1500 (I think!) In time it has increased in size, output and complexity. Parts and replacement engines are quite easy to come by as you can get them from other cars including VW Golfs, Passats, Jetta and some Audi's. To get the engine to fit in the Transporters lower engine bay they have been leaned over on their side at a 50° angle as opposed to the 15° it is normally mounted at so if you do want to replace the engine either with another diesel or a petrol engine (quite popular) then you will need the sump, oil pick up pipe and some other bits from the diesel engine. Check for anything other than a little smoke, you expect a little smoke from a diesel but not excessive, this could indicate worn injection parts which can get very expensive. Check for good cold starting.
Black smoke indicates unburned fuel, could be as simple as a blocked air filter but could also be dribbling injectors, incorrect injection pump timing or a faulty pump, could be cheap, could be expensive, be careful! White smoke indicates low combustion temperature, again could be pump timing but could also be a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is the same as a petrol, worn engine, turbo seals, valve stem oil seals, worn piston rings, none are cheap!! Another thing to consider is that most of these vans will have been a working vehicle at some point driven by people who couldn't give a monkeys about them, check service books for timing belt replacements as a snapped belt will wreck your cylinder head.

==== CS 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 81 to 87 37kw / 50bhp ====

This was the first water-cooled engine VW put in the Transporter back in 1981, from the beginning of the development of the Transporter VW always had in mind putting a water-cooled engine in it, why else would it have that massive grille and all that space behind it? To be fair these engines are very slow, you don't often see them either, They were available when diesels weren't very popular in the UK I suppose. These engines are quite economical though but are often in poor condition and worn due to the owners having to drive them hard to get anything like reasonable performance from their measly engine.

==== KY 1,7l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 87on 42Kw / 57bhp ====

These engines are slightly better but still unpopular. Exclusive 1.7 Diesel engine parts can be expensive due to its unpopularity.

==== JX 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright turbo diesel from 85on 51Kw / 70bhp ====

To me this is the engine to go for but still has problems, Cylinder heads crack but replacements are reasonably priced even from VW (about 300GBP2004 complete). They are as quick as the 2.0 air-cooled engine and twice as economical, there are two turbo's fitted to this lump, the earlier Garret and the later KKK.

Misc tips and tricks buyers guide

2007-11-13T22:13:33Z

VWlewis: /* Fuel tank */

[http://members.tripod.com/%7Ewetwesties/buyers.txt Also see used VW buyers checklist]

-----
check under the footwell carpet for rot, and in the dash pod for corrosion on the electrics in there, may be an idea to check all lights and indicators are switching on OK and fuel+heat guages register if the electrics have moisture in them these may be faulty. Something to watch for if there has been water ingress is has it started to rot either the interior, beds and units etc. Or whether it is puddling in the sills. Also might be an idea to remove the lower fridge vent to see inside, check with the owner first as when you unscrew this the screw holes may just disintegrate, if not try and get a look at this area from the insidethrough the cupboards. take a small mirror and torch and see if you can get a look at how much rot there is in there. The fridge condensates here and typically there will be some rot, just how much will determine weher you can slow its progress as I did with waxoyl or wether you be on the end of a welding bill in a years time. Try and get a feel for the seatbelt mouting points, the inner points are hard to see on the fronts you may need to feel for them. The bottom of the battery tray under the drivers/passengers seat and the area below the rear air vents to the engine are also favourite rot spots. surface rust is treatable and unavoidable some might say, I'm talking corrosion to the point where its holed or the metal has become brittle.

-----

Buyers guide taken from http://www.brickyard.co.uk
Written by Simon Baxter of http://www.brickwerks.co.uk / http://www.sjbaxter.co.uk

I have put this guide together to try and help those people that are thinking of buying a T3/vanagon/wedge/brick or what ever you want to call them, but also as a bit of a guide of what people that already own them of things to watch out for.
I am not the keeper of all knowledge when it comes to T3's but I would say I know a little more than others, so if you feel you
have anything to add to this guide then please let me know or if you feel that I am wrong also please also let me know (I am a
big boy now, I can take it!). I have based this guide on my time owning, driving and repairing other peoples vehicles and looking at T3's in scrap yards and at VW shows.

== Body ==

This along with the engine is the biggest deciding point of your purchase so it's imperative that's its in good condition, spending a little time inspecting your propective purchase may save you a hell of a lot of money in the long run. Buy on body condition.

== Seams ==

As you are probably aware, T3's tend to rust a little around the body seams, due to modern manufacturing techniques, body tolerances and panel fit have come along way since the "bay window" van ('68-'79) but to the cost of rust on our vans, I believe it to be because the seams aren't big enough to be able to get a sponge in properly to clean them out, the flexible sealer cracks, salt and road dirt get in and hey presto...rust. Once its in there your going to have great difficulty getting it out, so be warned, walk away from a van with rot around the seams unless you are confident you can get rid of it. Most vans are now getting to that age where a little crispiness around the edges is inevitable, also check that all the seams that are meant to be there actually are! A lot of repairers either weld the seams up or fill over them, it WILL be hiding something!

== Gutters ==

With the standard height of a T3 it is quite difficult to wash the roof and gutters so they are often overlooked and hence
get blocked which holds water against the panels which eventually leads to corrosion. Roof racks also scratch the paint around
this vulnerable area and impede the free flow of water away, so when your going to inspect a van, take something to stand on
and take a good look at the state of the guttering (or cantrail to give it its correct name). It is a good idea to give the gutters a good clean out once in a while with some cutting compound or T-cut and give them a thin layer of protective wax such as Finigans Waxoyle. Some of the lesser camper conversions (who will remain nameless!) tend to rot around where the hinges for the side opening roof attaches, and tend to break away. If your looking at a camper then check the area around the gutters with the roof up.

== Windows ==

Sounds silly doesn't it?, well I'll explain... its not actually the windows, rather its frame or surround, windscreen
surrounds are prone to corrosion in the bottom corners normally noticed by a small pool of water in the foot wells after rain,
although you can't go pulling someone's windscreen out when you are thinking of buying it you can probably get away with lifting
the corner of the rubber with a small screw driver and having a little sneaky peaky underneath for brown crispy bits, or alternatively you can have a look at the underside from under the dashboard (so remember your torch!). It's not just the screen you have to watch out for, its converted panel vans, these are the vehicles that left the factory as a delivery van and have had windows "cut" into them. When the hole is cut for the window, the bare metal isn't often primed or painted so the first time it rains the water runs behind the seal and sits there rotting the metal so watch out for bubbles around these windows.

== Front wheel arches ==

Volkswagen in there infinite wisdom put some expansion tanks in the front wheel arches for their "wacky" fuel tank design (more later), trouble is that they are a bit of a water trap and hold mud (therefore water) against the interior of the arch. Regular washing is the answer here but if its already taken hold then watch out for M.O.T failures as it lies within the prescribed 30 cm of a seat belt mounting. So check under the matting around the seat belt mounts. Also watch out for the cab step as the rubber anti slip thing holds water underneath it also leading to rot.

== Rear wheel arches ==

Just because they have a seam around them, that's the worst bit, Oh and they are a real swine to fit as they disappear into the tub of the arch. Cab floor. Normally due to a leaking screen and water collecting under the rubber mat and not being able to get out, a cursory glance under the mat isn't going to go amiss, not that bad to repair, just watch out for the throttle cable conduit!!

== Fuel tank ==

A lot of people have rotten fuel tanks and they are blissfully unaware! you see the top of the tank is more or less flat and level with a valley pressed into it for clearance for the antique heating system on air-cooled models. Its not till you fill up over half way until you find out! You can imagine a conversation at the factory "oh no we can't fit this big numb hose between the body and the tank" says one designer "don't worry" says another " we'll put a big dent in the top of the tank and some silly tanks in the front arches, oh and we'll need lots of fiddly pipes too!!" so.. Anyway back to the point, the top of the tank is a big water trap, water sits there rusting the tank from the outside in. So a grovel around under the van is in order here, look for clean patches on the tank where the under seal and paint have been washed away by the leaking fuel, the tanks aren't that bad to replace Its just those damn fiddly pipes in the top that are a pain!, oh and please be aware that the earlier (pre '85 model year) tank are now deleted from VAG stock so a good second hand one or a later tank and filler neck must be fitted. Tanks are interchangeable between petrol and Diesel models except the 2.1 petrol which has a swirl pot for the injection system. New replacement tanks are available from the usual sources.

== Doors ==

Not many problems here, just the window winder knobs fall off just like the rest of the VW's of the same era, he use of later MK III polo style winders usually works. Window winder mechanisms wear, easy to repair. Doors are interchangeable between years.

== Tailgate ==

Not may problems here either, later (post '85) models seem to rust a little on the inner edge by the striker mechanism, locks seize from lack of use. The struts that hold up the tailgate loose their strength but are quick, easy and inexpensive to replace. Tailgates are interchangeable although there are differences between early and late, the lock aperture for one is larger on later models.

== Sliding door ==

(Side loading door). These especially the commercials rot a little along the bottom edge, earlier ones (pre '85) are by design difficult to close without slamming them, this is one of the things that was picked up by most owners when the vehicle was launched back in 1979 but it took VW 5 years to rectify, also watch out for worn door runner bearings resulting in a less than smooth operation of the door and are quite expensive from VW, again good second hand ones are the way forward. Early and late door are not interchangeable, something to think about when purchasing a replacement. Door handles are also different as are the hinges. Early door handles are getting hard to find, expect to pay over the odds.

== Running gear ==

In my opinion is quite a good strong setup and doesn't give that much trouble. Most were fitted with a brake servo to aid you weary leg but some early 1600's came sans servo but still pull up well compared to a polo!

== Front suspension ==

There were two systems used, the early style with pressed steel lower wishbones and the later with a cast (forged?) lower wishbones, Im not too sure why they changed them, maybe they weren't strong enough but what ever the reason the two systems suffered the same problems, broken anti roll bar link arms, the earlier cranked ones break off at the top of the thread and at around £40 each they aren't cheap but on the plus side they are quite easy to repair. Upper wishbone inner bushes also wear, be careful if you tackle replacement as the bolt that secures the wishbone to the body also sets the camber angle for your steering geometry and if you malechicken that up you in deep doodoo as you need all manner of fancy machinery to reset it! Upper ball joint also wear but are dead easy to replace.

== Rear suspension ==

The rear trailing arm has been know to rust through in places, have a scrape of the seams and the spring cup, if lowering your van then be aware that you will gain lots of negative camber, this is adjustable if you can get the bolts undone! they do seize into the metal bush sleeve. Syncro 16" Syncro arms are longer to cope with the increase in suspension height, thus not interchangeable with 2WD models. Rear wheel bearing do tend to have a small amount of linear movement, this is normal and not generally cause for alarm.

== Front brakes ==

Again two systems used, the front brakes were robbed from the "bay window" and used on the T3 until 6/'86, bleed nipples fall off due to corrosion. The pistons leak when the front wheel bearings are left unadjusted for long periods. Flexible brake hoses are very long, sometimes known to foul parts of the body and suspension, also prone to cracking and bubbling up. Later brakes "feel" better. The brake disc carries the wheel bearing so if you are replacing front brake discs remember that you will also need to purchase wheel bearing kits too. Rear brakes. The automatic adjusters never seem to work as they should, one of the tags on the back plates corrode and fall off and that's about it, nothing is hard to replace, cables are straight forward to do. Rear brake adjuster bars wear which don't allow the rear brakes to adjust as they should, this can be rectified by clever filing of the bar.

== Gearbox ==

4 and 5 speed manual gearboxes were available. Regular oil changes are a good idea. Differential bearings tend to get a bit noisy around 100K miles, 5 speed boxes get stuck in gear due to synchromesh failure but VW modified the parts from about '88 on. Pinion oils seals go hard and leak oil out of the bell housing, the seal is cheap but you have to take the gearbox out. 5 speed boxes generally aren't that good or as high geared as people think, its just the ratio's are closer together. Don't be put off by a 4 speed box.

== Other Stuff ==

Just stuff that doesn't come under the above headings! Electric's.They don't seem that bad Its just when someone has been messing with them!, have a poke under the dash and look for scotch locks (or bodge locks as I like to call them) they are those little blue connectors that you squeeze together with pliers, they are OK but...... The printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster is prone to burning out where it goes around corners and the connector that connects it to the loom often corrodes and causes trouble and at 70GBP2004 for just the PCB well Its not a risk you want to take so make sure all the warning lights and the dash illumination works, if the fuel gauge doesn't work it could be a few things and could lead to fuel tank removal so check it! If the horn doesn't work Its normally a little earth strap at the lower end of the steering column.

== Engine ==

There are a few different engines to choose from, to be brutally honest non of the engines are brilliant, Its just which one do you go for, I will try to list as many know faults of each engine to give you some idea of what to watch out for. I'll only concentrate on the engines available in the UK although the others are based around the same engine anyway. ALL of the petrol engine available for use in the UK are capable of running on unleaded fuel with little or no alterations.

=== Air-cooled - petrol ===

==== CT 1,6l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82, 37Kw / 50bhp ====

Loosely based around the type 1 VW engine with added hydraulic tappets, removable spin on type oil filter, cooling fan on end of crank. Very under powered at 50hp, but quite economical. Watch out for cracked cylinder heads as these thing eat them, make sure thermostat is opening as if it isn't then your looking at a cooked engine.

==== CU 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51Kw / 70bhp ====

The better of the two air-cooled models, based around the older type 4 engines that were fitted to type 4 VW's as well as the later bay windows vans. Engine features modified cylinder heads with "D" shaped exhaust ports, hydraulic tappets and spin on oil filter, cooling system is more or less the same as the earlier bay with slightly different fan housing and heat exchangers. Twin Solex carburetor are fitted from factory but are troublesome and prone to air leaks and worn throttle shafts at around 80 000miles, replacement is the only cure. Leaking push rod tubes are quite easy to repair as the cylinder head no longer needs removal, quite a good, strong engine but again, check thermostat operation, smoke emitted and endfloat of crank (Quite hard to check as there is a mesh guard over the fan).Heat exchangers are very expensive at well over £100 each to replace, check for fumes in cab and that the outer cases are in good nick. Not very economical!

==== CV 2,0l 4-cyl. Flat4 air-cooled 79 to 82 51kw / 70bhp injection for USA ====

(see CU) water-cooled - petrol. First a note on water boxers or wasserboxers (German term) as they are sometime known, These engines suffer from cylinder head bolts that corrode due to the antifreeze not being changed at the correct interval, after much conflab and deliberation between the members of Club 80-90 we came to the conclusion that no matter what antifreeze is used it must be replaced every 2 years, Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors which break down in time to the point where they are no longer effective and internal corrosion of the engines occurs (head bolts). In the US, VW of America recognised this problem and gave vanagon owners a discount on a new engine, VW of America also said that the use of pink antifreeze (G12) would be better as it was phosphorous free, there's loads of chemistry behind all this and to be frank It's a bit baffling, you can read what American vanagon owners have to say here and some more here. If I were you I would check if the van you are looking at has had the antifreeze changed and if not then state these facts. At the end of the day as one club member said," the head bolts won't grow back" which is a good statement! and prepare for an engine replacement at somepoint in the future, as the bolts once corroded and broken are nigh on impossible to remove. Don't get me wrong, a lot of the engines with leaky head gaskets can be repaired, most of the time the head bolt nuts do pull and a repair can take place, you just need to be armed with the risks!

==== DF 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 44Kw / 60bhp ====

Check head bolts aren't missing! Check for signs of head gasket leaks (Black seal between the crankcase and head) not bad engines apart from that, the DF does feel under powered even in empty van form so imagine what's its like with a camper interior and a couple of people in there, no real problems except for the one mentioned above.

==== DG 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 82on 57Kw / 78bhp ====

The 1900cc to go for if you have a choice,again, headbolts and gaskets. Later exhaust systems, the one with the pipes everywhere, they can be very expensive to buy and time consuming to replace as some of the studs break away from the head and clearance to get a drill in is tight on some parts.

==== MV 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 85on 70kw / 95bhp or 89bhp with autobox ====

Cats lower power output and aren't needed for the MOT till 1993 so if its got one you can quite legally remove it (UK). Injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head bolts and gaskets!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

==== DJ 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection from 85on 82kw / 112bhp ====

The higher output of all the engines, these fly! again injection systems are a bit weird and there's not much info on them, they confuse some garages nevermind owners, most faults can be traced to faulty coolant temperature senders etc., check the van starts well from cold, take for a drive and make sure they keep running, no cutting out, no hunting. Check head blots!! Check exhaust as they can get expensive if a whole new system is required.

SS 2,1l 4-cyl.Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 89on 68kw / 92bhp.
GW 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection 83 to 85 66kw / 90bhp.
EY 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 85on 40kw / 55bhp.
SP 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled from 86on 54kw / 73bhp for Swiss export .
DH 1,9l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 84 to 85 61kw / 83bhp.
SR 2,1l 4-cyl. Flat4 water-cooled with injection and cat from 86on 64kw / 87bhp for Swiss export.

=== Diesel - Water-cooled ===

The following engines are based around the VW Golf Diesel engine that first showed its face in the 70's as a 1500 (I think!) In time it has increased in size, output and complexity. Parts and replacement engines are quite easy to come by as you can get them from other cars including VW Golfs, Passats, Jetta and some Audi's. To get the engine to fit in the Transporters lower engine bay they have been leaned over on their side at a 50° angle as opposed to the 15° it is normally mounted at so if you do want to replace the engine either with another diesel or a petrol engine (quite popular) then you will need the sump, oil pick up pipe and some other bits from the diesel engine. Check for anything other than a little smoke, you expect a little smoke from a diesel but not excessive, this could indicate worn injection parts which can get very expensive. Check for good cold starting.
Black smoke indicates unburned fuel, could be as simple as a blocked air filter but could also be dribbling injectors, incorrect injection pump timing or a faulty pump, could be cheap, could be expensive, be careful! White smoke indicates low combustion temperature, again could be pump timing but could also be a blown head gasket. Blue smoke is the same as a petrol, worn engine, turbo seals, valve stem oil seals, worn piston rings, none are cheap!! Another thing to consider is that most of these vans will have been a working vehicle at some point driven by people who couldn't give a monkeys about them, check service books for timing belt replacements as a snapped belt will wreck your cylinder head.

==== CS 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 81 to 87 37kw / 50bhp ====

This was the first water-cooled engine VW put in the Transporter back in 1981, from the beginning of the development of the Transporter VW always had in mind putting a water-cooled engine in it, why else would it have that massive grille and all that space behind it? To be fair these engines are very slow, you don't often see them either, They were available when diesels weren't very popular in the UK I suppose. These engines are quite economical though but are often in poor condition and worn due to the owners having to drive them hard to get anything like reasonable performance from their measly engine.

==== KY 1,7l 4-cyl. Upright diesel from 87on 42Kw / 57bhp ====

These engines are slightly better but still unpopular. Exclusive 1.7 Diesel engine parts can be expensive due to its unpopularity.

==== JX 1,6l 4-cyl. Upright turbo diesel from 85on 51Kw / 70bhp ====

To me this is the engine to go for but still has problems, Cylinder heads crack but replacements are reasonably priced even from VW (about 300GBP2004 complete). They are as quick as the 2.0 air-cooled engine and twice as economical, there are two turbo's fitted to this lump, the earlier Garret and the later KKK.

Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer

2007-11-07T15:03:58Z

VWlewis:

'''Main Dealer'''

When visiting your VW main dealer this is what you need to be saying:
"I am looking for a part for my T2 Transporter, the chassis number is XXXXX and it was registered in 198X"
parts changed over the years the chassis number will help identify exactly which part is required for your van. VW use a piece of software called ETKA, this can be 'acquired' unofficially for personal use which can aid in sourcing parts. Some parts are begining to become rare, and some which have low demand are no longer available. However VW to their credit will ship items from Germany at no extra cost.
VW parts counter staff will not understand the following, T25 Type25 Wedge etc as these are entusiast derived names. The attitude at a dealer can vary from pride that one of their vehicles is still on the road to downright snobby rudeness.

'''HarryMann:''' I believe T25 is an official designation used for our Type 3 T2s, by VW UK (though younger staff will not know and go just by the ETKA T2 (bus) designation for vehicle year)

Note that many VW parts distributors are just ''franchised'' by VW UK, and some require presence in person to take a credit card payment of a back-ordered (Germany) part and appearance again to collect (usually from one to two weeks) - something to do with poor authentication practices in the past e.g. Wayside Parts in the Milton Keynes area insist on this. You should never be asked to pay more than the official ETKA price however they source the part, as there is only one price, which always seems to carry a big premium for those bits you cannot source easily elsewhere e.g. some oils seals (can be £17~£27 ea.), even some special bolts (£13/ea.!) They should always quote you the price over the phone and unless stated it will be ex-VAT.

NB. Other businesses than official VW UK sanctioned parts counters also stock and order genuine VW parts, purchasing directly from Germany. [[http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.php?title=Internet_Links_New_Parts_suppliers e.g.]]

''Major parts like some engines and gearboxes cannot now be obtained from VW. If you can avoid it, don't chuck away stuff like good gearbox casings (esp. syncro), engine blocks etc. Many smaller parts in good or serviceable condition now have an intrinsic value to someone, somewhere - club80-90 provides a medium for finding someone looking for that part and quite often, getting it to them quickly.''

------

'''phade'''

Get the original rocker cover. You can get the original one from VW Classicparts Centre in Wolfsburg (part of VAG).

Thier website is http://www.vw-classicparts.de/

VAG Part Numbers (required):-

Rocker Cover: 021 101 471

Rocker Cover Gaskets: 021 101 481

These covers are fairly cheap and are worth the money.

To order them, go to thier website then do the following:-

- Click on Aktionsangebot

- Ring them up on the phone number shown on that page. This will create a new customer number for you. You can then email them with your credit/debit card details. Make absolutely certain that there are no viruses nor spyware on your computer before you do this !!

- The parts should then arrive in approximately 10 days or less. The customer number will appear on the invoice (where it says Kundenummer).

If you need to order any parts from them on future orders then do the following:-

- Go into the website http://www.vw-classicparts.de/

- Click on Verfügbarkeitsabfrage (availability question)

- A new window (or tab if you are using Firefox) will now appear

- Click on the Verfügbarkeitsabfrage starten! button

- Type in the part number without the space in the Teilenummer (part number) text box

- Click on the finden! button

- A list will now appear. Green means in stock, yellow means in stock outside Wolfsburg and red means unavailable

- Type in the Menge text box the number of items you want

- Click on Positionen uebernehmen (places the parts in your shopping basket)

When you have finished adding items to your shopping basket then click on the Anfrage bearbeiten (ask them about availabilty and for a qoute on how much they will cost).

They will them email you back with a PDF file and if you wish to go ahead with the order, then you will need to reply back (to the email address who sent you the qoute) with your full payment details.

'''and Phade added'''

Just to clarify, VW Classic Parts Centre (www.vw-classicparts.de) is actually VAG (Volkswagen A.G.) in Wolfsburg which is part of the main VW "factory" area, which in nearly every case is a lot better than any VAG dealer in the U.K.

You can very easily get parts from them, especially when you use ETKA or ETOS to get the part numbers. This will be a very usefull piece to everyone who is struggling to get bits for thier van.

Another note on the type 2 T3, a few of the parts sadly cannot be found on www.vw-classicparts.de and has to be ordered from South Africa via www.thebusdepot.com, which is based in Blaine, Washington (USA).

Thankyou for putting my post in the Wiki

--[[User:VWlewis|VWlewis]] 15:03, 7 November 2007 (UTC)
'''Help with German Translation''' when dealing with vw-classicparts.de : Use this link [http://babelfish.altavista.com/translate.dyn]

VW Electrics front fog lights

2007-08-13T22:49:28Z

VWlewis:

Foglamps:

VW may have fitted a loom in part for front fog lamps - Caravelle's might have this but Transporter vans didn't.
The wiring can be checked by inspecting the wiring to the rear fog light switch on the dashboard. If the first switch detent has no connection, then it is possible there is no wiring in the loom. The front fog lights on a Caravelle also use a relay in position 7 on the relay board (in the glovebox). If these wires are connected (even with no replay present)this means there is a wiring loom connection. You will need to trace these wires to the front of the vehicle.

The best thing to do to wire fog lamps would be to make your own loom to avoid any potenial wiring problems, which is easily done. It is a legal requirement that an indicator light is shown on the fog light switch so make sure it is wired into the loom.

Ideally you should run a wire to relay pin 30 from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible. Then, take a positive feed from the sidelights or from the headlamp switch or bulb holders and run this to pin 86 on the relay. You can fuse the wire from the sidelight circuit if you like as a precaution. From there, take a wire feed off of pin 85, run it to a switch, and finally to earth.

Then, run wiring from pin 87 to your foglamps positive, and earth the negative side of the bulb! Sounds a lot but once you get used to it its easy.

[http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/475/relaytl3.jpg Front Fog Light Wiring Diagram]

Here is a summary of the legal position in the UK re fog and driving lights:

Rules and laws on lights: fog lights can ONLY be on when there is diminished visibility, they must be fitted under the bumper and the colour of the light is to be YELLOW (although white is generally accepted) the fog lights are to be operated by an illuminated switch with a "fog" symbol and they can only be on when the DIPPED HEADLAMPS are on, and go off with main beam.

Driving lights "should" be mounted above the bumper, they can be operated with an illuminated switch with either dipped or main beam, they can also be wired to the main beam (there should be a main beam warning light on the dash)

Driving on side or parking lights is illegal, so is driving with side lights and driving or fog lights! fog lights should be a max of 55 watts so should driving lights,but a lot of people fit 100 watts.

Please remember that dazzling on coming traffic is also illegal.

VW Electrics front fog lights

2007-08-13T15:23:50Z

VWlewis:

VW Electrics front fog lights

2007-08-13T15:19:19Z

VWlewis:

Foglamps:

VW may have fitted a loom in part for front fog lamps - Caravelle's might have this but Transporter vans didn't.
The wiring can be checked by inspecitng the wiring on the rear fog light switch on the dashboard. If the first switch detent has no connection, then it is possible there is no wiring in the loom. The front fog lights on a Caravelle also use a relay in position 7 on the relay board. This is also a good clue as the wires to position 7 will indicate if there is a loom connection.

The best thing to do to wire fog lamps would be to make your own loom to avoid any potenial wiring problems, which is easily done. It is a legal requirement that an indicator light is shown on the fog light switch so make sure it is wired into the loom.

Ideally you should run a wire to relay pin 30 from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible. Then, take a positive feed from the sidelights or from the headlamp switch or bulb holders and run this to pin 86 on the relay. You can fuse the wire from the sidelight circuit if you like as a precaution. From there, take a wire feed off of pin 85, run it to a switch, and finally to earth.

Then, run wiring from pin 87 to your foglamps positive, and earth the negative side of the bulb! Sounds a lot but once you get used to it its easy.

[[Image:]]

[http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/475/relaytl3.jpg Front Fog Light Wiring Diagram]

VW Electrics front fog lights

2007-08-13T15:19:01Z

VWlewis:

Foglamps:

VW may have fitted a loom in part for front fog lamps - Caravelle's might have this but Transporter vans didn't.
The wiring can be checked by inspecitng the wiring on the rear fog light switch on the dashboard. If the first switch detent has no connection, then it is possible there is no wiring in the loom. The front fog lights on a Caravelle also use a relay in position 7 on the relay board. This is also a good clue as the wires to position 7 will indicate if there is a loom connection.

The best thing to do to wire fog lamps would be to make your own loom to avoid any potenial wiring problems, which is easily done. It is a legal requirement that an indicator light is shown on the fog light switch so make sure it is wired into the loom.

Ideally you should run a wire to relay pin 30 from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible. Then, take a positive feed from the sidelights or from the headlamp switch or bulb holders and run this to pin 86 on the relay. You can fuse the wire from the sidelight circuit if you like as a precaution. From there, take a wire feed off of pin 85, run it to a switch, and finally to earth.

Then, run wiring from pin 87 to your foglamps positive, and earth the negative side of the bulb! Sounds a lot but once you get used to it its easy.

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

[http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/475/relaytl3.jpg Front Fog Light Wiring Diagram]

VW Electrics front fog lights

2007-08-13T15:16:38Z

VWlewis:

Foglamps:

VW may have fitted a loom in part for front fog lamps - Caravelle's might have this but Transporter vans didn't.
The wiring can be checked by inspecitng the wiring on the rear fog light switch on the dashboard. If the first switch detent has no connection, then it is possible there is no wiring in the loom. The front fog lights on a Caravelle also use a relay in position 7 on the relay board. This is also a good clue as the wires to position 7 will indicate if there is a loom connection.

The best thing to do to wire fog lamps would be to make your own loom to avoid any potenial wiring problems, which is easily done. It is a legal requirement that an indicator light is shown on the fog light switch so make sure it is wired into the loom.

Ideally you should run a wire to relay pin 30 from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible. Then, take a positive feed from the sidelights or from the headlamp switch or bulb holders and run this to pin 86 on the relay. You can fuse the wire from the sidelight circuit if you like as a precaution. From there, take a wire feed off of pin 85, run it to a switch, and finally to earth.

Then, run wiring from pin 87 to your foglamps positive, and earth the negative side of the bulb! Sounds a lot but once you get used to it its easy.

[[Image:http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/475/relaytl3.jpg]]

Main Page

2007-08-13T14:59:53Z

VWlewis: /* VW Electrics (not camping) */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== IMPORTANT ==
*[[what is wiki|WHAT IS WIKI? new users start here]]

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to this page and to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting. Please PM hacksawbob on the club 80-90 forums if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights at the moment. ''''Please login with your forum username and password''''

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, due to typos in the internal links)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. SPACE '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New/Prospective Owners=
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]

For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines ==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fuel lines fire warning| Fuel lines fire warning]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems| Vac advance/retard problems]]

==Aircooled==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature| Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled tinware| Aircooled tinware]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|engine removal]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Ignition timing - distributors, setting up]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|spark plugs]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines compression testing| Compression testing]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Drilling out broken studs/bolts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]

== Diesel engines ==
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Diagnosis]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
* [[Diesel Engines - Turbo|Turbo]]
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
** [[Parts - Cylinder heads|Cylinder heads]]
** [[Parts - Piston damage|Piston damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Part Nos]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters recomended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]

----

==Exhausts==
*[[Exhausts|Exhausts]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*Injectors
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plug replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]

==Petrol==

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel System MPG|MPG]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Coolant==
* [[Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash|flashing red light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands| Recommended brands]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]

==Heating==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|Heater blower replacement]]
* [[Heating - Insulating heater hoses|Insulating heater hoses]]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic recommended Oil|Recommended oil]]

==Manual specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance| Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch pedal not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Sloppy gear change improving]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]

==Common==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]
*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]
*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

----

= VW Electrics (not camping)=
[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf | some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
* [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent Wipers]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting uprated headlight kit|Fitting uprated headlight kit]]
* [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
* [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
* [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
* [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
* [[VW Electrics fuse box|Fuse box]]
* [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors| Electric wing mirrors]]
* [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
* [[VW Electrics front fog lights|front fog lights]]
----

= Steering and Suspension =

* [[Steering Geometry/Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres Recommended tyres| Recommended tyres]]
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres 15" alternative wheels| Alternative wheel rims]]
* [[Wheels and Tyres combinations that fit|Combinations that fit]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres tyre size calculator|Tyre size calculator]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres PCD|What fits (PCD list)]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Tyre pressures|Wheels and Tyres tyre pressures]]

----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]

----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

*[[Body work and glass Leaking windscreen| Leaking windscreen]]
*Painting your van
**[[Body work and glass Painting | Painting - General]]
**[[Body work and glass Roller painting | Paint your van for £50]]
*[[Body work and glass window removal and refitting| Window removal and refitting]]
*[[Body work and glass Doors | Doors]]
**[[Body work and glass Doors locks| Doors locks]]
*[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation| Insulation]]
*[[Body Work and Glass window scrapers |Window Scrapers]]

*[[Body Work and Glass - Rust| Rust ]]
*Areas that rust (for photos mainly)
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
*Seatbelts
** [[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
** [[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|seatbelt legality]]
*Seats
There is a roll pin in the bar between the seat and the arm.
**[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
**[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*Headlining/ interior panels
**[[Interior non camping interior panels| interior panels]]
**[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]
*Dashboard
**[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
**[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]
*Other
**[[Interior non camping tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
**[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

**[[Interior non camping short shifter|short shifter]]

= Camping Interior =

==Cupboards, beds, roofs, windows etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior Conversion specs and brochers|Conversion specs and brochures]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units| Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery| Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|lighting]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Recipes]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]
----

= Campers =

==Exterior==
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]

==Conversions==
*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Trnsporter (1981)]]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page | Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General Mechanical Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw Types of screw fixings]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]
*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]

==Tools/Sundries/Techniques==

'''Tools'''
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]

'''Sundries'''
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]

'''Techniques'''
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
----

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]

----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]
'''The "Naked Van" Project'''

Please post your pictures of hard to get to places and bits you dont normally see
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
----

=T25 Literature, Magazine Articles, Camper User Guides, Manuals, Specifications=
[http://vwpix.terlinden.com/index_en.htm Almost every brochure and manual]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]

----

= Internet Links and Contacts=
==Parts Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|New parts suppliers]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]

==Internet links==
*[[Internet Links other t25 and vanagon resources|Other T25 and vanagon resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club supplier contacts]]
*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]
*[[Westy jokers]]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]

----

=Misc tips, tricks and info=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]
[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying parts from main dealer]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==
[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy (club members feedback)]]

----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

File:RAL 01.jpg

2007-06-25T09:42:55Z

VWlewis: Rustoleum Colour Chart 1

Rustoleum Colour Chart 1

Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors

2007-02-27T15:48:41Z

VWlewis:

Genuine VW T25 mirror on left. LT mirror on right. note perpendicular shaft on the genuine mirror
[[Image:Exterior-GEN-VS-LT-mirror-3.jpg]]

----------
To attatch the LT or Syncro mirrors
B5.5x16 according to ETKA.
Stainless... Countersunk..

Or M5 rivnuts and M5 x 16 stainless if you want to go extras

Part Numbers for T3 VAG Synchro mirrors:

251 857 513 F left

251 857 514 H right

Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors

2007-02-27T15:47:51Z

VWlewis:

Genuine VW T25 mirror on left. LT mirror on right. note perpendicular shaft on the genuine mirror
[[Image:Exterior-GEN-VS-LT-mirror-3.jpg]]

----------
To attatch the LT or Syncro mirrors
B5.5x16 according to ETKA.
Stainless... Countersunk..

Or M5 rivnuts and M5 x 16 stainless if you want to go extras

Part Numbers for T25 ones:

251 857 513 F left

251 857 514 H right

Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors

2007-02-27T15:47:36Z

VWlewis:

Insurance Caravelle

2007-02-27T15:44:50Z

VWlewis:

'''80-90 name Hacksawbob'''

Amount per year.....................£230

Insurance company...................CIS

Type of insurance....................FC

Excess...............................?

Age of driver/s......................35-38

Engine size..........................2.1

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................n

Agreed Value.........................?

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................about £50 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10:

Other Info- Syncro Caravelle. off-roading not covered.

----

80-90 NAME................ANDKAT

Amount per year.......£268

Insurance company......FRIZZELL

Type of insurance..........FULLY COMP

Excess....................£200

Age of driver/s..........34M/39F

Engine size............1915

No. Of seats.............7.

Year of Vehicle..........1986

Limited miles............NO

Agreed Value............£2500

years NCB................FULL - 16YRS

breakdown y/n.........N

homestart y/n.........N

European breakdown cover y/n......N

Legal Protection y/n?.........Y

NCB protection n/y?..........Y

Syncro y/n.................N

Any stipulations from insurer?......N

modifications from standard?.........N

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 8

Other Info- BUSINESS COVER INCLUDED

----

80-90 NAME................VW Lewis

Amount per year.....................£288

Insurance company...................Adrian Flux = Highway

Type of insurance....................FC (pleasure, domestic and commuting)

Excess...............................250

Age of driver/s......................45F & 47M

Engine size..........................2.1 + LPG

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................7000

Agreed Value.........................2500

years NCB............................5 (MAX - actually >10 yrs)

breakdown y/n........................£42 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................n

Any stipulations from insurer?.......n

modifications from standard?.........LPG (Gasure fitted)

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 9

Other Info - none.

----

Insurance Caravelle

2007-02-27T15:43:10Z

VWlewis:

'''80-90 name Hacksawbob'''

Amount per year.....................£230

Insurance company...................CIS

Type of insurance....................FC

Excess...............................?

Age of driver/s......................35-38

Engine size..........................2.1

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................n

Agreed Value.........................?

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................about £50 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10:

Other Info- Syncro Caravelle. off roading not covered.

----

80-90 NAME................ANDKAT

Ammount per year.......£268

Insuarance company......FRIZZELL

Type of insurance..........FULLY COMP

Excess....................£200

Age of driver/s..........34M/39F

Engine size............1915

No. Of seats.............7.

Year of Vehicle..........1986

Limited miles............NO

Agreed Value............£2500

years NCB................FULL - 16YRS

breakdown y/n.........N

homestart y/n.........N

European breakdown cover y/n......N

Legal Protection y/n?.........Y

NCB protection n/y?..........Y

Syncro y/n.................N

Any stipulations from insurer?......N

modifications from standard?.........N

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 8

Other Info- BUSINESS COVER INCLUDED

----

80-90 NAME................VW Lewis

Amount per year.....................£288

Insurance company...................Adrian Flux = Highway

Type of insurance....................FC (pleasure, domestic and commuting)

Excess...............................250

Age of driver/s......................45/47

Engine size..........................2.1 + LPG

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................7000

Agreed Value.........................2500

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................£42 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................n

Any stipulations from insurer?.......n

modifications from standard?.........LPG (Gasure fitted)

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 9

Other Info - none.

----

Insurance Caravelle

2007-02-27T15:42:35Z

VWlewis:

'''80-90 name Hacksawbob'''

Amount per year.....................£230

Insurance company...................CIS

Type of insurance....................FC

Excess...............................?

Age of driver/s......................35-38

Engine size..........................2.1

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................n

Agreed Value.........................?

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................about £50 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10:

Other Info- Syncro Caravelle. off roading not covered.

----

80-90 NAME................ANDKAT

Ammount per year.......£268

Insuarance company......FRIZZELL

Type of insurance..........FULLY COMP

Excess....................£200

Age of driver/s..........34M/39F

Engine size............1915

No. Of seats.............7.

Year of Vehicle..........1986

Limited miles............NO

Agreed Value............£2500

years NCB................FULL - 16YRS

breakdown y/n.........N

homestart y/n.........N

European breakdown cover y/n......N

Legal Protection y/n?.........Y

NCB protection n/y?..........Y

Syncro y/n.................N

Any stipulations from insurer?......N

modifications from standard?.........N

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 8

Other Info- BUSINESS COVER INCLUDED

80-90 NAME................VW Lewis

Amount per year.....................£288

Insurance company...................Adrian Flux = Highway

Type of insurance....................FC (pleasure, domestic and commuting)

Excess...............................250

Age of driver/s......................45/47

Engine size..........................2.1 + LPG

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................7000

Agreed Value.........................2500

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................£42 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................n

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........LPG (Gasure fitted)

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 9

Other Info - none.

Insurance Caravelle

2007-02-27T15:37:09Z

VWlewis:

'''80-90 name Hacksawbob'''

Amount per year.....................£230

Insurance company...................CIS

Type of insurance....................FC

Excess...............................?

Age of driver/s......................35-38

Engine size..........................2.1

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................n

Agreed Value.........................?

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................about £50 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10:

Other Info- Syncro Caravelle. off roading not covered.

----

80-90 NAME................ANDKAT

Ammount per year.......£268

Insuarance company......FRIZZELL

Type of insurance..........FULLY COMP

Excess....................£200

Age of driver/s..........34M/39F

Engine size............1915

No. Of seats.............7.

Year of Vehicle..........1986

Limited miles............NO

Agreed Value............£2500

years NCB................FULL - 16YRS

breakdown y/n.........N

homestart y/n.........N

European breakdown cover y/n......N

Legal Protection y/n?.........Y

NCB protection n/y?..........Y

Syncro y/n.................N

Any stipulations from insurer?......N

modifications from standard?.........N

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 8

Other Info- BUSINESS COVER INCLUDED

80-90 NAME................VW Lewis

Amount per year.....................£288

Insurance company...................Adrian Flux = Highway

Type of insurance....................FC

Excess...............................250

Age of driver/s......................45/47

Engine size..........................2.1 + LPG

No. Of seats.........................7

Year of Vehicle......................88

Limited miles........................7000

Agreed Value.........................2500

years NCB............................5

breakdown y/n........................£42 on top of above figure

homestart y/n........................y

European breakdown cover y/n.........y

Legal Protection y/n?................y

NCB protection n/y?..................n

Syncro y/n...........................n

Any stipulations from insurer?.......

modifications from standard?.........LPG (Gasure fitted)

Happy with service 0=unhappy up to 10: 9

Other Info - none.

Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels

2007-01-15T09:54:14Z

VWlewis:

Please read [[disclaimer|disclaimer]].

----
15"
Merc steel rims with the part no. starting 202 *** *** off C-Classes. You'll find them in ET31 and ET37 flavours, in 6 or 6.5" width.
----
'''Russel at Syncronutz:'''

These merc rims were designed for a car not a van if you use them off-road only then it's ok because you are not going fast. But if you are using them on the road, well up to you but I wouldn't. (Syncronutz supply correct load rated 15" rims 2/12/05)

----
'''Note:'''

The C class:
(gross vehicle weight rating (kg): 1,945, gross vehicle weight rating
kerb weight (kg): 1,490,)
http://cars.rte.ie/newcars/index.cfm?fuseaction=Details&vehicle_id=75941320050301&strSpecs=SSCIRL2002

The unladen 'Kerb' weight of the Caravelle GL is 1500KG (10KG heavier than a C Class!)
Gross vehicle weight is 2390kg (from the VW instruction manual)
I'd say your OK with the merc rims if you don't overload your van (no more than 455Kgs including passengers).

----

[[Syncro Alternative Rims |see also Syncro Alternative Rims]]
----
[http://194.242.159.246/brickyard/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=596&PN=1 |as at 9/7/06 From the brickyard forum, list being compiled by Pork dub]

Here's some information on wheel fitments that may be of use.
Its a list of OEM wheel fitments suitable or adaptable to the T3. 
Where suitable I have added notes on work needed to fit them. 
 

'''Overview of Dimensions''' 
A good guide to these parameters and what they mean can be found here as well as a '''Speed Difference Calculator''': 
[http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html Click here and scroll down for Wheel Information]
 
 
'''AUDI''' 
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 
'''100 (90>)''' 5 x 112 35...42 57.0 
'''A4, A6, A8, V8, S2, S4, S6''' 5 x 112 35 57.0 
Notes: Offset usable but small centre bore diameter means a need to machine the front wheels. 
 
'''FORD''' 
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 
'''Scorpio''' 5 x 112 35...38 63.3 
'''Galaxy ''' 5 x 112 42...45 57.0 
Notes: Offset usable but small centre bore diameter on Galaxy means a need to machine the front wheels. 
 
'''MERCEDES''' 
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 
'''All (except below)''' 5 x 112 35...42 66.5 
'''SL models''' 5 x 112 18...25 66.5 
'''A Class, Vito''' 5 x 112 45...50 66.5 
'''Sprinter''' 5 x 130 45 
'''Vito/ML''' 16"x6.5J/PCD 5x112/ET47/Bore 66.5 
'''ML up to 2/2002 16"''' 5x112 62 66.5 
'''ML 2/2002 onwards 17"''' 5x112 52 66.5 
 Extra Mercedes ML Wheel Data 
'''ML230 'Tegmen' 5 spoke''' 6.5Jx16 on 225/75R16104T. ET47 
[http://www.poshbuggers.co.uk/merc-rims/tegmen.jpg" Tegman Wheel Photo] 
'''ML270CDi 'Tegmen' 5 spoke''' 8.0 J x16 on 255/65R16109T. ET62 
'''ML320 'Tegmen' 5 spoke''' 8.0Jx16 on 255/65R16109T. ET62 
'''ML320CDi/ML430 'Pictor' 5 spoke''' 8.5Jx17 on 275/55R17109H. ET52 
[http://www.poshbuggers.co.uk/merc-rims/pictor.jpg" Pictor Wheel Photo] 
'''ML350 'Thuban' 5 spoke''' 8Jx17 on 275/55R17109H. ET52 
[http://www.poshbuggers.co.uk/merc-rims/thuban.jpg" Thuban Wheel Photo] 
'''ML55 'AMG I' 5 spoke''' 9Jx18 on 285/50R18109H. ET42 
[http://www.poshbuggers.co.uk/merc-rims/amgi.jpg" AMG I Wheel Photo] 

Notes: Good choice of usable offsets, centre bore adequate. 
Sprinter wheels require Porsche adapters. ML wheels require spacers, particularly at the front due to offset. 
Reports coming in that ML wheels use the 14mm ball taper standard. 

 
'''PORSCHE''' 
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 
'''911, 924, 930, 944 >86''' 5 x 130 25 71.5 
'''911 Carrera 2/4, 928, 944 87>, 964, 968, 993''' 5 x 130 45 71.5 
Notes: High offsets but with adapters many choices of style available. 
 
'''SEAT''' 
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore 
'''Alhambra''' 5 x 112 35...38 57.0 
Notes: Offset usable but small centre bore diameter means a need to machine the front wheels. 
 
'''VOLKSWAGEN'''
Model P.C.D. Offset C/Bore
''''Caravelle, Passat 96>, Sharan, Transporter'''' 5 x 112 35...40 57.0 
Notes: Offset usable but small centre bore diameter means a need to machine the front wheels.

Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys

2007-01-09T08:25:34Z

VWlewis:

[[http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Body_Accessories_Exterior_-_Wheel_Centre_caps | Follow this link to Body Accessories Exterior:]]

Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys

2007-01-09T08:24:42Z

VWlewis: made the link work properly

[[http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Body_Accessories_Exterior_-_Wheel_Centre_caps| Follow this link to Body Accessories Exterior:]]