VW T25(T3)-Tech - User contributions [en]

Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting

2019-09-02T18:18:01Z

Mocki: /* Window trim fitting video */

==Forum Discussion==

'''Anon (Russel?):'''

Its an easy job ,but u need to get a mate to help u , take a broad flat blade blunt as poss ,as u need to use this from the inside (asumeing your windows are factory fitted without chrome or black inserts on the outside ) start in one corner and you r trying to push the window rubber back over the metal edge its covering (just tuck it back in a little behind the window edg , apply a little force to the glass to create the gap to tuck it in ! do this al the way round by the time u have reached halfway you will prolly b able to push it out while your mate catches it on the otherside ,to re fit it get some cord bout 1/4 in thick and tightly wound ,put the rubber back on the glass and insert the cord in the rubber offerit up to the window hole and while your assistant pushes verry hard on the glass in the area that you r pulling the cord (inside the van ) the rubber lip will end up on the inside ,once u have done one then you will see its not hard to do ,you just need an assistant ,try taking one out and putting it back ,when ur confident do the others do it on a warm day so the rubbers are soft and plyable or use a hairdryer to soften them ,oh and if ur limo blacking them yourself ,use one of those plant sprayer things and realy soak the film and the glass as u peel of the backing , hope u can follow this i am not a tecnical writer but you get the drift and sorry bout the typos !

'''bigherb:'''

To take the window out. From inside the vehicle start in one top corner by levering down the seal around the bodywork and pushing out the window at the same time working along both edges at the same time, once you have got it started it gets easier. The easiest way is to just cut the seal on the inside roughly along the line of the lip of the bodywork with a stanley knife you only have to do the top and halfway down each side and then push out from the top and then replace the seal it's a good idea anyway (dont forget to have someone on the outside ready to catch it).

To replace the window fit the seal to the window and put the cord (I use electrical cable as it slides easier)into the slot where the bodywork goes and overlap the two ends at the top by at least six inches. Offer the window up to the hole in the bodywork and with someone on the outside pushing in the window at the top and bottom where the cords overlap, pull one of the cords to pull the lip of the rubber under the lip of the body work. As you work around the window the the outside person has to push in the window where you are pulling the cord and also push in the window opposite where you are pulling the cord to stop the wndow popping out. As Hacksawbob said KY jelly is a good lubricant I use tyre fitting soap as it has anti corrosion inhibiters but not washing up liquid or silicone lubricants.
Once the window is fitted bang the window with palm of your hand all the way round to settle the window in.

'''Titus A Duxass'''

Try not to use any lubricants at all, if the screens slides in it could slide out.

The string goes in the seal groove that lips around the bodywork and is pulled from the inside.

Use a good strong string like paracord, about 8-10mm thick,
feed it around the seal starting from the centre at the top of the screen
and go all the way round. Aim for an overlap of about 30cms.

You need two people for the task.
Place the screen in the hole and push it in as far as possible.
With the second person applying pressure from outside directly over the string,
firmly pull string out of the seal.
Try to to keep string pointing towards the centre of the screen.

You may need to back the screen in using your hand/palm.

If it does not sit right, pull it out and start again.

Good luck. Buy a spare screen first!

==Sundries (e.g. filler strips, inserts etc.==

http://www.vwbusparts.freeserve.co.uk/ Chrome window trim available Frank Grote

[http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/rubbers.html www.woolies-trim.co.uk (for chrome filler strips on that go into the rubber)]

[http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/part.phtml?PartID=2374 Another supplier of chrome filler strips]

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/Index.asp

==Window trim fitting video==

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/fitting-chrome-trim-into-window-seals_topic64691.html Originally posted on Brickyard

http://youtu.be/fbqarorplYE

== ==

Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting

2019-09-02T18:17:43Z

Mocki: /* Sundries (e.g. filler strips, inserts etc. */

Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting

2019-09-02T18:16:56Z

Mocki: /* Window trim fitting video */

==Forum Discussion==

'''Anon (Russel?):'''

Its an easy job ,but u need to get a mate to help u , take a broad flat blade blunt as poss ,as u need to use this from the inside (asumeing your windows are factory fitted without chrome or black inserts on the outside ) start in one corner and you r trying to push the window rubber back over the metal edge its covering (just tuck it back in a little behind the window edg , apply a little force to the glass to create the gap to tuck it in ! do this al the way round by the time u have reached halfway you will prolly b able to push it out while your mate catches it on the otherside ,to re fit it get some cord bout 1/4 in thick and tightly wound ,put the rubber back on the glass and insert the cord in the rubber offerit up to the window hole and while your assistant pushes verry hard on the glass in the area that you r pulling the cord (inside the van ) the rubber lip will end up on the inside ,once u have done one then you will see its not hard to do ,you just need an assistant ,try taking one out and putting it back ,when ur confident do the others do it on a warm day so the rubbers are soft and plyable or use a hairdryer to soften them ,oh and if ur limo blacking them yourself ,use one of those plant sprayer things and realy soak the film and the glass as u peel of the backing , hope u can follow this i am not a tecnical writer but you get the drift and sorry bout the typos !

'''bigherb:'''

To take the window out. From inside the vehicle start in one top corner by levering down the seal around the bodywork and pushing out the window at the same time working along both edges at the same time, once you have got it started it gets easier. The easiest way is to just cut the seal on the inside roughly along the line of the lip of the bodywork with a stanley knife you only have to do the top and halfway down each side and then push out from the top and then replace the seal it's a good idea anyway (dont forget to have someone on the outside ready to catch it).

To replace the window fit the seal to the window and put the cord (I use electrical cable as it slides easier)into the slot where the bodywork goes and overlap the two ends at the top by at least six inches. Offer the window up to the hole in the bodywork and with someone on the outside pushing in the window at the top and bottom where the cords overlap, pull one of the cords to pull the lip of the rubber under the lip of the body work. As you work around the window the the outside person has to push in the window where you are pulling the cord and also push in the window opposite where you are pulling the cord to stop the wndow popping out. As Hacksawbob said KY jelly is a good lubricant I use tyre fitting soap as it has anti corrosion inhibiters but not washing up liquid or silicone lubricants.
Once the window is fitted bang the window with palm of your hand all the way round to settle the window in.

'''Titus A Duxass'''

Try not to use any lubricants at all, if the screens slides in it could slide out.

The string goes in the seal groove that lips around the bodywork and is pulled from the inside.

Use a good strong string like paracord, about 8-10mm thick,
feed it around the seal starting from the centre at the top of the screen
and go all the way round. Aim for an overlap of about 30cms.

You need two people for the task.
Place the screen in the hole and push it in as far as possible.
With the second person applying pressure from outside directly over the string,
firmly pull string out of the seal.
Try to to keep string pointing towards the centre of the screen.

You may need to back the screen in using your hand/palm.

If it does not sit right, pull it out and start again.

Good luck. Buy a spare screen first!

==Sundries (e.g. filler strips, inserts etc.==

http://www.vwbusparts.freeserve.co.uk/ Chrome window trim available Frank Grote

[http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/rubbers.html www.woolies-trim.co.uk (for chrome filler strips on that go into the rubber)]

[http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/part.phtml?PartID=2374 Another supplier of chrome filler strips]

==Window trim fitting video==

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/fitting-chrome-trim-into-window-seals_topic64691.html Originally posted on Brickyard

http://youtu.be/fbqarorplYE

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/Index.asp

== ==

Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash

2016-03-10T17:43:23Z

Mocki: added diagram

'''Basic operation.'''

The light will flash when you start your engine for a few seconds this is normal. It should then go out and stay out unless either your coolant level is low or your van is over heating. However there are several other faults that can make it come on incorrectly. A quick check whilst you are driving is to put the heating on if you have heat coming up front then you most likely still have coolant going around the system. Look in the rear view mirror for steam! More often than not it is due to the level sensor in your header tank has become gunged up and is incorrectly thinking that your header tank is empty. Remove the two pronged sensor from the tank and give the prongs a clean

'''syncrosimon'''

There are two other causes for that little light to blink that I have experienced.
1. An electrical short circuit. This happened to me when an ill fitting battery was shorting on the battery lid. The red light would flash intemitently and the temp gauge increase in temp very quickly whilst shorting.
2. The main wiring harness multi pin connector to the dash pod comes a little loose. on later models this can also sound the buzzer of doom when nothing else is wrong, but should also effect other dash led's by making them not work. A gentle wiggle should correct, on my lhd you can reach this plug from the driving seat by sticking your hand up underneath, i cant remember if this is the same on a rhd.

Hope this may be of help as it is not always the obvious.

The engine wont be overheating if the needle doesn't say it is. The fan should come on when the needle is a needles width to the right of the little red light. (assuming that the gauge is working) The temp needle should start fully to the cold left side, then rise over about 4 miles to the middle, where in normal conditions it stays rock steady. Ticking over for long periods will require fan action such as in your traffic jam to cool the engine, but should be shown in a slight rise in the needle position. When the fan comes on you should be able to see the needle drop, a gentle rev to get the coolant flowing round faster at that point will cool the engine down faster. or you can put your heater on full for a time. This will keep the engine cool even if your main fan isn't working

'''Mocki'''

you need to remember that the light takes its signal from the temp sender for over heating, AND from the level sender in the headertank for low coolant, the rad fan is connected to neither of these and has a seperate sender switch in the rad itself, so is totally independent...

also check connections in the electrics box in the engine bay, where there is yet another junction for the gauge and the red light of confusion.....

'''Header tank cap check'''

just something to check
with the cap screwed tight on the bottle when the coolant is cold blow/suck on the take off pipe.
you should not be able to blow into the system or suck out.
if you can your cap is faulty
it needs to seal so the coolant can pressurise and not boil!
non sealing will cause fluid loss and so can cause the fault you have with no apparent coolant loss!

'''by AngeloEvs'''

Almost right, firstly the chips in the Level Sender Control Unit (LSCU relay 43, on the main fuse panel at the front on late vans but up under the dash on the A pillar near the crown of earths on early vans) )are VAG coded so no idea of what they are. The gauge has its own internal circuit that flashes the LED for a few seconds (the Self Test). This circuit will be triggered whenever the resistance across the gauge falls below 50 ohms and this is the coolant senders resistance when the coolant exceeds normal operating temperature. The sole function of the LSCU is to monitor fluid level and to trigger the gauges internal circuit in the event of coolant loss. The LSCU sends a low frequency AC pulse to the probes in the header tank (probably to prevent electrolysis and degrading the probes hence the AC). If the pulse waveform alters due to no coolant being present then the LSCU sends a series of short duration low frequency negative pulses to the temperature gauge. These pulses are seen by the gauge as temporary short circuits across the gauge and the internal gauge circuit responds by activating the LED. The reason for sending short duration pulses 'once every few seconds' to the gauge is to prevent it from deviating from the current temperature position (otherwise it would swing hard over to the right). In the event of overheating, the internal circuit of the gauge will switch the LED off when coolant temperature returns to normal (sender resistance returns to a normal value greater than 50 ohms) but if the LSCU is activated it has to be reset by switching the ignition off. The reasoning for this is that whilst coolant temperature can return to normal coolant cannot replace itself and hence the continual flashing in the event of coolant loss and temporary flashing in the event of temporarily overheating. The problem with the LSCU is that it is easily triggered by sudden fluctuations in Voltage, poor earths and has a very narrow margin of error regarding the resistance of the coolant fluid - according to VAG service bulletin - antifreeze mixtures over 60% will cause flashing red light syndrome.

Removing the LSCU stopped the Led flashing so the fault is in the coolant level circuit, these are the usual suspects.

!. Coolant level Low? you prabably checked this and found its ok!

2. The LSCU Earth connection at the earth crown next to the fuse box.

3. The earth under the ignition coil. (or under the airfilter box on the engine wall on a diesel)

4. Poor connection at the coolant level socket.

'''Angelo EVS coolant warning light module testing'''
The most important thing is to establish that the coolant level is correct and engine running within normal temp range when the LED is triggered. As stated, the VW Coolant LED can be triggered by low coolant or high temp and both have different wiring systems/components that are highly sensistive to poor connections and components. To establish wether the fault is in the Coolant temperature circuit or the coolant level warning circuit you need to do the following:-

1. Locate the module marked 43 (or 42) situated in the main fuse box under the glove compartment and make a note of its position.

2. When the LED starts flashing - park, switch engine off and remove the module.

3. Re-start engine, and observe LED for about 30 seconds or so. Continue with a short drive

If the LED continues to flash with the module removed the following need to be checked :- temperature issue due to low coolant, engine/timing, etc, an intermittent wiring fault in the temperature sender circuit, gauge is not reading the correct temp, etc.

If the LED goes out after a few seconds and no longer flashes when driving with the module removed the fault is in the coolant Level warning system due to either of the following - low coolant level - faulty module 43 - poor earth connection - poor connection of the temp gauge centre nut to the ribbon cable - corroded prongs on the coolant level sender or poor connections to it.

Poor connections in the coolant level sytem wiring is a common problem. As Mocki points out there is an earth cnx in the engine bay and another located on a crown cluster next to the fuse box on the door pillar. Unfortunately, there are a whole bunch of earth spade terminals at the latter and best to check/clean them all. Even a poor battery earth, incorrect Anti-freeze mix can trigger the LED.

5. The LSCU itself

6. Loose nuts behind the temperature gauge.
[[File:http://muchos.co.uk/members/Evangeluse/sch90v3.jpg]]

There are two inter-connected circuits for the cooling system wiring, one for the temperature and the other for coolant loss. The LED flashes if the temperature is high (not your problem given the gauge is reading low) or if the Level Sender Control Unit senses loss of coolant via the sensor in the header tank. A poor Earth will cause continual flashing and the most likely problem. Circuit diagram shows where to check and what. Colour codes should be right for your van. Easy check......remove the LSCU (looks like a relay and in position 3 in the fuse box , marked 42 or 43). Switch ignition on and if LED stops after initial self test then the fault is most likely in the wiring to the coolant Level sender.

'''by Midlifecrisis'''

In response to a continually flashing light

[[File:Cooling system diagram.jpg]]

So,
a) if the led flashes with the relay removed then you can discount the coolant level probe and wiring to/from it as a culprit (because with the relay removed all of this is unconnected to the gauge)

b) if the led flashes on the 'known good' dash then you can discount any component of the dash/gauge as the culprit (because the two gauge behave the same)

c) the gauge needle works correctly so we can discount the temperature probe and the wiring from the temperature probe to the dash (because the gauge needle is being 'driven' correctly by the temperature probe as
it is heated by the coolant)

(I think) that only leaves the ground wiring to the gauge pod??? Or possibly (but more unlikely) the 10volt supply to the gauge.

------------------------------

Additional notes: Some owners have found good results by changing the electrolytic capacitor in the temperature gauge for a tantulum type. See: http://www.vanagonauts.com/Warning-Light-Fix241.htm

Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding

2009-02-14T20:11:02Z

Mocki:

'''by Dud »''' ''Wiki'd by mocki''

I have a 2l Aircooled, and a little machined hole (which could possibly have had something fall off?????) behind the bypass idle cut off valve on the left carb has just started making a very load air sucking noise (audiable in the cab with the window shut). When I put my finger over it at tickover it raises the rev's slightly.

I have just disconected the bypass idle cut off valve by pulling out the power lead on the left of it. This has drastically reduced the sucking and therefore the sucking noise. From what I understand the point in this valve is really to stop the engine running or causing backfire once the ignition has been turned off, a problem on the Aircooled's due to hot spots. Is this correct????? I am also keen to know if in temporarily disconnecting it there will not be any major issues other than those mentioned above, or other damage as a result of me disconnecting it? (I'm planning to go away in it on monday for a week).

Secondly, does anybody have any idea why it has suddenly started making this sound? Could the valve be faulty? Could something have fallen off that was covering the hole making the noise (I did find a paper hole punch shape and sized bit of metal nearby in the engine bay)?

Many thanks for any replies.(82 Aircooled Autosleeper)
Dud

Posts: 94
Joined: 17th, Dec 2005
Location: Portsmouth Member No. 2029
80-90 Mem No: 2029

'''Reply by Steve8090'''

You should have a little steel disk fitted to that hole, there are actually two of those, they are machining holes that are blanked, similar to core plugs, it is quite common for these to fall out, you will need to block this up with a similar flat disk, if you dont want to take the carb off then use some 5 minitue epoxy and glue the disk into place, other than that when you remove the carb you will see a second small disk, these are staked to place, just copy that one and make sure they are sealed as this missing will cause a very weak mixture and risk of overheating.

Steve Shaw
Member No.2
Club founder and owner of Gasure.UK
Trader
Posts: 574

Main Page

2009-02-14T20:06:17Z

Mocki: /* Aircooled */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

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----

= New/Prospective Owners=
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]

*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]

*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines ==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*[[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
*[[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]
*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1 (incl. Vanagon syndrome)]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out|Removing 2.1 - Other jobs whilst out]]
*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems| Vac advance/retard problems]]
*Parts, Pictures, Diagrams and lists etc.
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Inlet Manifold (1.9)|Inlet Manifold (1.9)]]

==Aircooled==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|Engine removal]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]

*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature|Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled tinware|Aircooled tinware]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|Solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement|Pushrod & tube seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Refitting cylinder heads|Refitting cylinder heads]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Distributors and Ignition Advance curves
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Distributots, timing and setting up]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
*A/C Petrol engines - Carburrettors and fuel system
**[[Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding]]
**[[electric fuel pumps|Electric fuel pumps]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|Cylinder nos. and firing order ]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines losing water|Losing water]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines oil emulsifying|Emulsified oil (mayonnaise)]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[[Hydraulic lifters explained ]]

== Diesel engines ==

*[[Diesel engines Fire warning|Fire warning]]
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Intro, types and condition diagnosis]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
*[[Diesel engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Timing Belt_01|Lining-up camshaft and crankshaft]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cyl Head re-fitting|Cylinder head re-fitting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Diesel Engines 1.6 NA CS ring gaps|1.6 NA (CS) ring gaps]]

**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
**[[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
** [[Parts - Engine Damage|Diesel Engine damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft]]
** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]
** [[Parts - Head gasket protrusion|Head gasket protrusion]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - rear|Cyl head instr senders - rear]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - side|Cyl head instr senders - side]]
** [[Parts - JX turbo mounting position|JX turbo mounting position]]

**Diesel Engines - Modified parts
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mount|Cut-away engine mount]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mounts|Modified engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - AAZ Non-JX Mods 01|AAZ turbo clearance mods]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Oil cooling|Oil cooling and oil coolers]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Injection pumps|Injection Pumps - Modifying]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters recomended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]

----

==Exhausts==
*[[Exhausts|Exhausts]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*[[Diesel - Injectors|Diesel Injectors]]
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plugs - replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]
*[[Diesel - Fuel system Tips and Tricks|Fuel system Tips and Tricks]]

==Petrol==

*Common
**[[Petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - fuel lines, tank and filler]]

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Air leaks|Carb or manifold air-leaks]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel System MPG|MPG]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Coolant==

* [[Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash|Flashing red light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands| Anti-freeze - Brands, specs, dilutions and quantities]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |Main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]
* [[Coolant and Heating running temperatures|Running temperatures]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 1|Replacing original front-to-rear metal pipes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 2|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes]]

* [[Coolant and Heating Oil cooling|Oil cooling]]

==Heating==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|Heater blower replacement]]
* [[Heating - Insulating heater hoses|Insulating heater hoses]]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic recommended Oil|Recommended oil]]

==Manual specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|clutch slave replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance| Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch pedal not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving sloppy g/c & g/c part nos.]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange - Pictures and drawings]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox type swap|Gearbox type swap (425 & 524)]]

*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]
*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]
*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

----

= VW Electrics (not camper interior specific)=

*Electrical System
** [[VW Electrics fuse box|Main fuse box]]
** [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
** [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
** [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors| Electric wing mirrors]]

*Troubleshooting
** [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
** [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
** [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]

*Upgrades and Modifications
** [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent wipers]]
** [[VW Electrics Upgrading headlights|Upgrading headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
** [[VW Electrics front fog lights|Front fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control illumination]]
** [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator sizes|Alternator size formula & tutorial]]
** [[VW Electrics LED Number plate light|LED Number plate light]]
** [[VW Electrics 12 volt live feed only when engine running|12 volt live feed only when engine running]]

*Pictures, Diagrams, Lists
** [[VW Electrics Alternator 90 Amp Wiring|90 Amp Alternator Wiring]]

[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]

*Petrol engine wiring

*Diesel engine wiring
----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
* [[Steering and suspension Radius-rod and bushes|Radius-rod and bushes]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=

*[[Wheels and tyres - Tyres|Tyres]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels|Alternative wheels]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and tyres Wheel offset (ET)|Wheel offset (ET) explained ]]
----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]

----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =
*Leaks
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks| Foot-well leaks]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]

*Painting your van
**[[Bodywork and Glass Painting |Painting - General]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Roller painting |Paint your van for £50]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting|Window removal and refitting]]

*Doors
**[[Bodywork and Glass Doors locks|Door locks]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Sliding Door and Parts|Sliding Door and parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Door seals|Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation|Insulation]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window scrapers |Window scrapers]]

*Rust
**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust|Rust and some treatments]]

** Areas that rust

***[[Areas that rust - General|General list]]
***[[Areas that rust - Kitchen panel|Kitchen/fridge body side panel]]
***[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
***[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member]]
***[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]
***[[Areas that rust - Cab step|Cab steps]]
***[[Areas that rust - Inner Sills|Inner Sills]]

*[[Bodywork and Glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Techniques - Welding]]
----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
*[[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
*[[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|seatbelt legality]]

==Seats==

*[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
*[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*[[Headrest fitting to rear seats]]

==Headlining/ interior panels==
*[[Interior non camping interior panels|Interior panels]]
*[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]

==Cab Door Armrests==
*[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]

==Dashboard==
*[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
*[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Other==
*[[Interior non camping tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
*[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

= Camping Interior =

==Cupboards, beds, roofs, windows etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]
* [[Camping Interior Cab bunk|Cab bunk]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior Conversion specs and brochers|Conversion specs and brochures]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries|Facts about auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units| Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery| Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior Rock and roll bed hinges|Rock and roll bed hinges]]
* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]
* [[Camping Interior Towing connections|Towing connections]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge removal|fridge removal]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Recipes]]
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Calor Gas facts]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]

==Gas==
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Gas information]]
----

= Campers =

==Exterior==
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting pop-top|Fitting a pop-top]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]
* [[Camping Exterior stop the drip |Stop the drip]]

* [[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]

==Conversions==

*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)|Danbury Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)]]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics]

==Karmann Coachbuilts==

[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page | Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9 Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General - Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw Types of screw fixings]
*[[General Fastener Materials|Fastener materials & selection]]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]
*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]

[http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm Torque converter]

==Tools/Sundries/Techniques==

===Tools===
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Thread Chaser|Thread Chaser]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Rivnuts|Rivnuts]]
*[[General Welding equipment|Welding equipment]]
*[[General Spot Blaster|Hobby spot-blaster]]
*[[General Glow-plug spanner|Glow-plug spanner]]
*[[General Shelter-tent workshop|Shelter-tent workshop]]

===Home made tools===
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device|Brake bleed pressure device]]
*[[General Homemade working light|Cheap working light for inaccessible areas]]

===Sundries===
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]
*[[General Cold Front|Cold Front (welding)]]
*[[General High Temperature finishes|High-temp paints]]
*[[General Anti-corrosion paint|Weld-thru Zinc spray]]
*[[General Rust-busters|Rust-busters and penetrating oils]]

==Techniques==
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding and brazing]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
*[http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Hydraulic lifters]
----

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]

----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]

*Please of your pictures of hard to get to places and bits you dont normally see
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
**[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
----

=T25 Camper Manuals, VW manuals, Specifications, Literature, Magazine Articles,=
*[http://vwpix.terlinden.com/index_en.htm Almost every brochure and manual]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals /Autosleeper Trident/ Autohomes]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/proj/prpics/p93/p93.pdf Wooden toy template, can be modified to look more T25]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Manuals|Where to get manuals]]
----

= Internet Links - Parts supply and Other relevant websites =

==Parts Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]
*[[Internet Links Electronic and Electrical Services|Electronic (ECU) and Electrical Services]]
*[http://www.dubdoctors.com/ http://www.dubdoctors.com/]

Suppliers feedback gleaned from the forum.

[[Elite VW]]

==Internet links==

*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]

*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]
*[http://www.jigrah.co.uk/mhpark/Default.htm Hightop-friendly carparks]
*[[Internet Links other t25 and vanagon resources|Other T25 and vanagon resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club supplier contacts]]

*[[Westy jokers]]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
*[[Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers|Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts1994/ukpga_19940033_en_8#pt5-pb1 Criminal justice act Part V relating to trespass powers to remove, may have a relevance to overnight camping]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics]
*[http://www.vwpix.org/eng/ VWPix, Boltze & Co's VW brochure site]
----

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]
[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks installing Firefox|Installing Firefox]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying parts from main dealer]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers - warning]]
*[[Parts - Non-VW Parts|Non VW parts]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==

*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy (club members feedback)]]

----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

=Garages, Workshops and services=
==T25==
[[Garages T25 Specific|T25 specific garages]]
==General==
[[Garages General Recommended|Recommended general garages]]

Camping Interior Eberspacher

2008-04-20T11:28:17Z

Mocki: /* Mark "'''T'Onion'''" did a gasket refit and service of a DL1c */

[http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/tech%20pages/eberspacher.htm Installing Eberspacher]

[http://www.espar.com/html/service/download/technical_archive.html Link to Eberspacher Tech Manuals]

== Mocki on Eberspachers ==

'''Eberspacher Heaters''' (¯`'▪.mocki.▪'´¯)
All Eberspacher heaters have a voltage protection system, protecting both overvoltage and undervoltage, this also serves to protect the battery voltage dropping below the minimum required for starting the vehicle , should you be connected to the main battery.
This voltage is measured at the fuse point at the heater, NOT at the battery, and a common mistake made in installations is cable length and voltage drop - the feed lines should be no more than 0.75cm long, as supplied with the heater orgiginally, or the core diameter of the wire needs to be increased to stop the voltage drop caused by the longer run of the feed wire.
The undervoltage protection switches off the heater when the voltage drops below 10.5vdc at the heater.

'''If your heater will not start, here are a few other points to look at'''
Make sure the outlet ducting for the hot air is not blocked or restricted in any way , it must remain the same diameter as it starts at the heater, which for the DL1C is 60mm.

Make sure the exhaust is clear, and intact.If the exhaust is holed, or cracked it will suck in air, which will cause the heater to shut down.

Make sure the combustion air inlet is clear and intact, and not sited at the end of the exhuast, as if the heater ''sniffs'' ehausted fumes it will shut down.

The combustion inlet and exhust should be the same length, (50cm ideally) as these heaters use a ''Balanced flue'' system, and will be undully noisey (howling!) if the inlet and exhaust are too unbalanced.

Fuel! Check that the heater is in fact getting fuel.
The DL1C will only attempt to start 10 times without getting fuel before throwing up a fault code.
It will then need resetting before it will start again.

[[Image:Eberspacher-install-caravelle-under-seat.jpg]]

==Mark "'''T'Onion'''" did a gasket refit and service of a DL1c==
Firstly disconnect the power to the unit , then remove the plastic cover on top of it , no.4 allen key on mine , then remove the little 7mm nut on top of the glow plug and then the plug its self (17mm). then remove the exhaust, the air intake and the fuel line and then the 4 10mm nuts then take off the two end caps .. then remove the unit to a warmer place
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image016.jpg]]

remove the units rubber seal , and then the 6 plastic rivets , push the middle in with a nail , carefully then split the plastic caseing
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image017.jpg]]

remove the three sets of wiring plugs
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image019.jpg]]

and the brains its self

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image020.jpg[/img]

Then remove the 4 cross head screws the hold the fan housing to the combustion chamber

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image018.jpg[/img]

that done the unit will now split in two

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image021.jpg[/img]

The fan houseing , note the gasket , this needs replaceing

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image022.jpg[/img]

the old gasket

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image028.jpg[/img]
clean up the fan houseing and then fit the new gasket

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image036.jpg[/img]

the excess gasket removed

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image037.jpg[/img]

the combustion chamber and cover

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image023.jpg[/img]

remove the chamber cover 2 cross head screws , the inside of the cover , note the carbon build up

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image024.jpg[/img]

clean up the cover using wire brush and thinners

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image029.jpg[/img]

remove the gasket and the seal from the combustion chamber

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image025.jpg[/img]
[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image026.jpg[/img]
[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image027.jpg[/img]

then comes the fun part , cleaning the chamber , i used a gun cleaner and again thinner , again note the carbon build up

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image031.jpg[/img]

the carbon hehehe

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image030.jpg[/img]

Then check to make sure that the air intake hole is not blocked , this is in the chamber next to the fuel intake pipe

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image032.jpg[/img]

i cleaned the chamber and left to soak for a few hours before cleaning again and then start on the rebuild

First replace the chambers gasket and seal

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image034.jpg[/img]

then the chamber's cover ,

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image035.jpg[/img]

then refit the fan houseing to the chamber taken care with the gasket

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image038.jpg[/img]
then refit the brains and the wiring

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image039.jpg[/img]

then the plastic caseings and the 6 plastic rivets , these just push in

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image040.jpg[/img]

[IMG:1024:768]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image041.jpg[/img]

then its back to the van , refit all the other parts and the fire it up , this may take a few starts and it will smoke for a while ... Job done , and all for 20 quid and a couple of hours
this should be done once a year so the man at ebber told me

== irish.david on Westy Eberspachers (B2L-D2L specific) ==

Joined: 31 Jul 2006
Posts: 134
Location: Belfast Member 3347

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:23 am
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My eber started giving me trouble about a year ago. It seemed to be drawing a lot of current, cutting out after only a few minutes on battery and finally not running at all. As these heaters are so old now and no shop wanted to know so I decided that I was going to strip it down and fix it myself.

The most important document I was able to find on the internet was a pdf with the file name “Eberspacher B2L-D2L Install Manual.pdf .” This has information about fitting and operating the eber and, most importantly, wiring diagrams. Anyone who wants to know anything technical about there eber should start here. I have a copy but am currently on a cruise ship near south America til the end of Feb and internet time is very expensive. If people can’t find this document on the web let me know and I will email it to one person who can then distribute it. The following info applies to a B2L eber that was attached to a 1986 Syncro Westy Joker.

Before starting work take the earth strap off both the main and leisure battery. This is not strictly necessary but is a sensible precaution before doing any major work on your van. To remove your eber you need to do the following. Start by removing the “Black buzzing box” and the shelf it sits on underneath the bench. You should then have access to the main eber control unit and wiring. Unclip the control unit and pull the electrical plug out of the bottom. Then undo any other electrical connections so the cable that runs down the air inlet is free.

Next climb underneath the van and undo the combustion air pipe, the exhaust and the fuel line from the inside edge of the eber. On the back side of the eber the air inlet and hot air exhaust pipes should be removed. After that the 4 blots holding the eber to the chassis can be removed. Be careful of the little rubber vibration dampers as they can break easily if not handled with care. If you do break one it is possible to glue it with a good expoxy glue as they operate in compression, not tension. With those bolts off the eber can be removed from the van.

The eber casing can be removed by undoing the million or so little screws around the centre line where the casing join can be seen. At this point my memory is a little hazy so the best thing before taking anything apart is to pause and take a mental (or real) picture of how everything looks and fits together. Once you get the outer shell and inner shell off you should be able to see all the components from page 13 of the eber manual in front of you.

Out of all those bits the most important ones to change are the temperature switch, the safety thermal cutout switch and the heating coil switch (labelled numbers 3, 4 and 8 respectively on page 11 of the eber manual). These are simple normally closed switches that are designed to open at a set temperature. Over the years they get stuck, contacts go bad, ceramic case starts to break down etc. These are off the shelf and can be ordered from Farnell for a few quid each. Only problem is that Farnell has a min £20 order but I think that Ringo ordered a few sets so you might be able to get some off him. The Farnell ordering information is below:

732473 MICROTHERM
55H12T944(250/200) 1 Complete £3.29 £3.29
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 250C; Temperature, opening:250°C; Temperature, closing:200°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, CSA, VDE0631, DIN EN; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:19
1006845 HONEST-WELL
T23A100ASR2-15 1 Complete £1.79 £1.79
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 100C; Temperature, opening:100°C; Temperature, closing:85°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, VDE; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:17mm; Length / Heigh
1006842 HONEST-WELL
T23A050ASR2-15 1 Complete £1.79 £1.79
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 50C; Temperature, opening:50°C; Temperature, closing:35°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, VDE; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:17mm; Length / Height,

Unfortunately I can’t remember exactly which values go in what location so you’ll need to note the markings on the thermoswitches you remove to get the temperature rating. Only one I know for sure is that the overheat sensor is the highest value.

The only other temperature sensor in there is a little thermistor that’s in a little tube just before the suction side of the electric motor that draws air in from the van. This is used by the thermostat to get the temperature of the air in the van so it knows if more or less heat is required. As this has no moving parts its normally pretty reliable and probably won’t need replaced. You can check it by measuring the resistance between pins 2 and 3 of the electrical plug that went to the thermostat unit. While measuring the resistance get the thermistor between 2 fingers and the heat from your hand should make the resistance change. At the moment I’ve no idea what the resistance value should be for room temperature. Maybe anyone who gets this far could post what value they measured and we’ll get an idea of what a “good” value is.

Next thing to do is to check the coil of the glow plug. Remove the glow plug, making note of what electrical connections went where, and inspect. Mine just needed a good clean but if yours looks too far gone it might need replaced. I think you can get them from Gunzl in Germany. You also need to measure the resistance between the spade connectors to check the heating coil. You should measure a small resistance. If you get an open circuit or a dead short you need a new glow plug.

After reinstalling the glow plug you can start boxing it back up. If you are feeling really confident you can strip it down further but if things have gone badly enough that this is necessary, you’re probably better off getting a replacement eber. Re-installation is the opposite of removal (just more fiddly) but don’t put the BBB shelf or unit on yet.

The number one reason for eber problems is low voltage cutout on startup. The reason for this is that when the eber starts up it needs to use the glow plug to heat the incoming combustion air so it doesn’t just condense the petrol vapour on the walls of the combustion chamber causing an explosion risk. Glow plugs use a hell of a lot of power as they’re basically little electric heaters. On startup the petrol eber will draw about 12A and the diesel 20A. The idea is that when they get up to temperature the heat in the eber means the glow plug isn’t necessary and is shut off so the current consumption drops to just over 1A.

The problem occurs in this startup period when a combination of a battery not fully charged and cable losses cause the voltage AT THE EBER dropping to under 10.5v which causes it to shut down. Another possible cause of this is the thermostat switch that controls the glow plug in the petrol ebers being faulty and keeping the glow plug on even though it should have shut off. This puts a huge drain on the battery which eventually drops under the cutoff voltage stopping the eber. Luckily, if you’ve just followed the steps above, you’ve replaced the thermoswitches with new working ones.

The reason for the leisure battery not being fully charged are addressed in another story I wrote that’s hidden in the Wiki under “Heavy duty battery charging.” I still maintain that in vehicles as old as the ones we drive any long cable run that has to carry more than 10 – 20A should be replaced. Mocki has mentioned a solution to bad winter starting by moving the starting battery to the engine bay but in my opinion that’s more of a band aid than a solution and would actually make the leisure battery charging worse as well as reducing the voltage to the electrical equipment in the van (eg headlights, heater) when under load.

That being said, I do appreciate that it is a pain in the a*** running a new cable the length of the van so I’ll focus on the eber cable losses. The eber manual states that the maximum cable loss from the battery to the eber is not to be more that 0.5V. This means that under startup the max resistance of the cable from the battery to the eber can be calculated as follows:

Petrol 0.5/12 = 0.042 Ohms
Diesel 0.5/20 = 0.025 Ohms

As you can see it doesn’t take much for the cable to degrade enough so the eber won’t start. A good test is to measure the voltage at the eber during startup. Connect everything up but don’t put the eber control unit back into it’s clip. Get a multimeter set on VDC and hold the probes in pins 3 and 4 on the electric plug on the control unit and switch the eber on. The voltage you read is the one the eber sees so if it dips anywhere near 10.5v then you’re in trouble. If you’re really flash and have 2 meters you can put one across the leisure battery and then try again. The difference between the readings is the cable loss.

There are 2 solutions. The first one is to replace the cable from the battery to the eber. This would be a huge nightmare as you need to remove all the kitchen units and would take ages. Not recommended.

The easiest thing to do is to add another 12v battery under the bench next to the BBB shelf. This has a number of avantages. You get more capacity in your leisure battery system, the new battery isn’t likely to have too much high current use between it and the original leisure battery so cable losses are minimised and you have a really short run of cable between it and the eber so the eber voltage won’t ever drop under 10.5v even with the glow plug in use.

All you need to do is run an earth strap from the chassis to the negative terminal and connect both the +12v supply from the BBB to the leisure battery and the 12v supply to the eber to the positive terminal and you’re set. I used a 63Amp.hr car battery and built a wooden shelf over it but if you’re concerned about space you could just as well use a small 12v leisure battery from a golf cart or something. It’s just basically be used as a buffer between the leisure battery and the eber.

As far as I can see I’ve covered most of the things that people seem to have trouble with. I would have put pictures up if I had any but unfortunately I won’t be able to take any until March. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Dave

PS: I know some people go to some lengths to “balance” the combustion and exhaust side. My personal feeling is that this really isn’t necessary. The manual states that as long as the combustion intake pipe is less than 1.5m long and the exhaust is less than 2m you’ll be fine.
Posted by irish.david, WiKi'd By mocki

== Ringo on Eberspachers (D1LC compact specific) ==

Taken from [http://forum.80-90.co.uk/posting.php?mode=editpost&p=218600 this thread on our forum]

Right - i stripped down the eber to try and work out what was wrong with it and see how easy it was to change sensors etc..

Heres the eber without its casing:

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2395/2151471503_7d6598eb7b.jpg]]

You can see the two sensors, the glow plug, the control box and the blower motor in orange.

Heres another pic of the sensor locations with the sensors removed - you can see they sit flush to the heat exchanger. Its hthe sensor nearest the control box that is the overheat sensor - the other one is the flame sensor.

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2185/2152262328_ccf720df14.jpg]]

This one is of the eber after i have split the blower motor off it. This had a fair bit of carbon build up which i managed to get out with a wire brush. also the gasket had broken - not sure if this happened when i took it apart. Anyway a new one was constructed and it was replaced:

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/2152260620_a4da6e0100.jpg]]

Finally, i turned around the eber so there is no bend in the pipe for the hot air - this should keep the whole unit cooler. This should also keep T'Onion happy :) :

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2355/2151465629_dd8c006c47.jpg]]

If you have read my other thread on the diagnostic tool you will know what im talking about. Anyway, it indicated that my overheat sensor may need checking. At £50 for a new sensor, im not going to just buy it and see if works - so i have replaced the sensor for a 1k1 ohm resistor. If this fixes the problem then i will get the sensor....

I havent tried it fully yet bit so far the eber seems to work a lot better - i will keep you updated...

Cheers

Ringo

== Scanned Eberspacher Manual (DL1C) ==

[[Image:EB_Instructions_01.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_02.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_03.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_04.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_05.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_06.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_07.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_08.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_09.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_10.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_11.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_12.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_13.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_14.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_15.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_16.jpg]]

Camping Interior Eberspacher

2008-04-20T11:25:56Z

Mocki: /* Mocki on Eberspachers */ onion gaskets service

[http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/tech%20pages/eberspacher.htm Installing Eberspacher]

[http://www.espar.com/html/service/download/technical_archive.html Link to Eberspacher Tech Manuals]

== Mocki on Eberspachers ==

'''Eberspacher Heaters''' (¯`'▪.mocki.▪'´¯)
All Eberspacher heaters have a voltage protection system, protecting both overvoltage and undervoltage, this also serves to protect the battery voltage dropping below the minimum required for starting the vehicle , should you be connected to the main battery.
This voltage is measured at the fuse point at the heater, NOT at the battery, and a common mistake made in installations is cable length and voltage drop - the feed lines should be no more than 0.75cm long, as supplied with the heater orgiginally, or the core diameter of the wire needs to be increased to stop the voltage drop caused by the longer run of the feed wire.
The undervoltage protection switches off the heater when the voltage drops below 10.5vdc at the heater.

'''If your heater will not start, here are a few other points to look at'''
Make sure the outlet ducting for the hot air is not blocked or restricted in any way , it must remain the same diameter as it starts at the heater, which for the DL1C is 60mm.

Make sure the exhaust is clear, and intact.If the exhaust is holed, or cracked it will suck in air, which will cause the heater to shut down.

Make sure the combustion air inlet is clear and intact, and not sited at the end of the exhuast, as if the heater ''sniffs'' ehausted fumes it will shut down.

The combustion inlet and exhust should be the same length, (50cm ideally) as these heaters use a ''Balanced flue'' system, and will be undully noisey (howling!) if the inlet and exhaust are too unbalanced.

Fuel! Check that the heater is in fact getting fuel.
The DL1C will only attempt to start 10 times without getting fuel before throwing up a fault code.
It will then need resetting before it will start again.

[[Image:Eberspacher-install-caravelle-under-seat.jpg]]

==Mark "'''T'Onion'''" did a gasket refit and service of a DL1c==
Firstly disconnect the power to the unit , then remove the plastic cover on top of it , no.4 allen key on mine , then remove the little 7mm nut on top of the glow plug and then the plug its self (17mm). then remove the exhaust, the air intake and the fuel line and then the 4 10mm nuts then take off the two end caps .. then remove the unit to a warmer place
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image016.jpg]]

remove the units rubber seal , and then the 6 plastic rivets , push the middle in with a nail , carefully then split the plastic caseing
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image017.jpg]]

remove the three sets of wiring plugs
[[Image:http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa129/marktickhill/ebberservice/Image019.jpg]]

== irish.david on Westy Eberspachers (B2L-D2L specific) ==

Joined: 31 Jul 2006
Posts: 134
Location: Belfast Member 3347

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:23 am
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My eber started giving me trouble about a year ago. It seemed to be drawing a lot of current, cutting out after only a few minutes on battery and finally not running at all. As these heaters are so old now and no shop wanted to know so I decided that I was going to strip it down and fix it myself.

The most important document I was able to find on the internet was a pdf with the file name “Eberspacher B2L-D2L Install Manual.pdf .” This has information about fitting and operating the eber and, most importantly, wiring diagrams. Anyone who wants to know anything technical about there eber should start here. I have a copy but am currently on a cruise ship near south America til the end of Feb and internet time is very expensive. If people can’t find this document on the web let me know and I will email it to one person who can then distribute it. The following info applies to a B2L eber that was attached to a 1986 Syncro Westy Joker.

Before starting work take the earth strap off both the main and leisure battery. This is not strictly necessary but is a sensible precaution before doing any major work on your van. To remove your eber you need to do the following. Start by removing the “Black buzzing box” and the shelf it sits on underneath the bench. You should then have access to the main eber control unit and wiring. Unclip the control unit and pull the electrical plug out of the bottom. Then undo any other electrical connections so the cable that runs down the air inlet is free.

Next climb underneath the van and undo the combustion air pipe, the exhaust and the fuel line from the inside edge of the eber. On the back side of the eber the air inlet and hot air exhaust pipes should be removed. After that the 4 blots holding the eber to the chassis can be removed. Be careful of the little rubber vibration dampers as they can break easily if not handled with care. If you do break one it is possible to glue it with a good expoxy glue as they operate in compression, not tension. With those bolts off the eber can be removed from the van.

The eber casing can be removed by undoing the million or so little screws around the centre line where the casing join can be seen. At this point my memory is a little hazy so the best thing before taking anything apart is to pause and take a mental (or real) picture of how everything looks and fits together. Once you get the outer shell and inner shell off you should be able to see all the components from page 13 of the eber manual in front of you.

Out of all those bits the most important ones to change are the temperature switch, the safety thermal cutout switch and the heating coil switch (labelled numbers 3, 4 and 8 respectively on page 11 of the eber manual). These are simple normally closed switches that are designed to open at a set temperature. Over the years they get stuck, contacts go bad, ceramic case starts to break down etc. These are off the shelf and can be ordered from Farnell for a few quid each. Only problem is that Farnell has a min £20 order but I think that Ringo ordered a few sets so you might be able to get some off him. The Farnell ordering information is below:

732473 MICROTHERM
55H12T944(250/200) 1 Complete £3.29 £3.29
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 250C; Temperature, opening:250°C; Temperature, closing:200°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, CSA, VDE0631, DIN EN; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:19
1006845 HONEST-WELL
T23A100ASR2-15 1 Complete £1.79 £1.79
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 100C; Temperature, opening:100°C; Temperature, closing:85°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, VDE; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:17mm; Length / Heigh
1006842 HONEST-WELL
T23A050ASR2-15 1 Complete £1.79 £1.79
Description: THERMAL SWITCH, N/C 50C; Temperature, opening:50°C; Temperature, closing:35°C; Voltage, contact AC max:250V; Current, contact max:10A; Approval Bodies:UL, VDE; Centres, fixing:24mm; Depth, external:17mm; Length / Height,

Unfortunately I can’t remember exactly which values go in what location so you’ll need to note the markings on the thermoswitches you remove to get the temperature rating. Only one I know for sure is that the overheat sensor is the highest value.

The only other temperature sensor in there is a little thermistor that’s in a little tube just before the suction side of the electric motor that draws air in from the van. This is used by the thermostat to get the temperature of the air in the van so it knows if more or less heat is required. As this has no moving parts its normally pretty reliable and probably won’t need replaced. You can check it by measuring the resistance between pins 2 and 3 of the electrical plug that went to the thermostat unit. While measuring the resistance get the thermistor between 2 fingers and the heat from your hand should make the resistance change. At the moment I’ve no idea what the resistance value should be for room temperature. Maybe anyone who gets this far could post what value they measured and we’ll get an idea of what a “good” value is.

Next thing to do is to check the coil of the glow plug. Remove the glow plug, making note of what electrical connections went where, and inspect. Mine just needed a good clean but if yours looks too far gone it might need replaced. I think you can get them from Gunzl in Germany. You also need to measure the resistance between the spade connectors to check the heating coil. You should measure a small resistance. If you get an open circuit or a dead short you need a new glow plug.

After reinstalling the glow plug you can start boxing it back up. If you are feeling really confident you can strip it down further but if things have gone badly enough that this is necessary, you’re probably better off getting a replacement eber. Re-installation is the opposite of removal (just more fiddly) but don’t put the BBB shelf or unit on yet.

The number one reason for eber problems is low voltage cutout on startup. The reason for this is that when the eber starts up it needs to use the glow plug to heat the incoming combustion air so it doesn’t just condense the petrol vapour on the walls of the combustion chamber causing an explosion risk. Glow plugs use a hell of a lot of power as they’re basically little electric heaters. On startup the petrol eber will draw about 12A and the diesel 20A. The idea is that when they get up to temperature the heat in the eber means the glow plug isn’t necessary and is shut off so the current consumption drops to just over 1A.

The problem occurs in this startup period when a combination of a battery not fully charged and cable losses cause the voltage AT THE EBER dropping to under 10.5v which causes it to shut down. Another possible cause of this is the thermostat switch that controls the glow plug in the petrol ebers being faulty and keeping the glow plug on even though it should have shut off. This puts a huge drain on the battery which eventually drops under the cutoff voltage stopping the eber. Luckily, if you’ve just followed the steps above, you’ve replaced the thermoswitches with new working ones.

The reason for the leisure battery not being fully charged are addressed in another story I wrote that’s hidden in the Wiki under “Heavy duty battery charging.” I still maintain that in vehicles as old as the ones we drive any long cable run that has to carry more than 10 – 20A should be replaced. Mocki has mentioned a solution to bad winter starting by moving the starting battery to the engine bay but in my opinion that’s more of a band aid than a solution and would actually make the leisure battery charging worse as well as reducing the voltage to the electrical equipment in the van (eg headlights, heater) when under load.

That being said, I do appreciate that it is a pain in the a*** running a new cable the length of the van so I’ll focus on the eber cable losses. The eber manual states that the maximum cable loss from the battery to the eber is not to be more that 0.5V. This means that under startup the max resistance of the cable from the battery to the eber can be calculated as follows:

Petrol 0.5/12 = 0.042 Ohms
Diesel 0.5/20 = 0.025 Ohms

As you can see it doesn’t take much for the cable to degrade enough so the eber won’t start. A good test is to measure the voltage at the eber during startup. Connect everything up but don’t put the eber control unit back into it’s clip. Get a multimeter set on VDC and hold the probes in pins 3 and 4 on the electric plug on the control unit and switch the eber on. The voltage you read is the one the eber sees so if it dips anywhere near 10.5v then you’re in trouble. If you’re really flash and have 2 meters you can put one across the leisure battery and then try again. The difference between the readings is the cable loss.

There are 2 solutions. The first one is to replace the cable from the battery to the eber. This would be a huge nightmare as you need to remove all the kitchen units and would take ages. Not recommended.

The easiest thing to do is to add another 12v battery under the bench next to the BBB shelf. This has a number of avantages. You get more capacity in your leisure battery system, the new battery isn’t likely to have too much high current use between it and the original leisure battery so cable losses are minimised and you have a really short run of cable between it and the eber so the eber voltage won’t ever drop under 10.5v even with the glow plug in use.

All you need to do is run an earth strap from the chassis to the negative terminal and connect both the +12v supply from the BBB to the leisure battery and the 12v supply to the eber to the positive terminal and you’re set. I used a 63Amp.hr car battery and built a wooden shelf over it but if you’re concerned about space you could just as well use a small 12v leisure battery from a golf cart or something. It’s just basically be used as a buffer between the leisure battery and the eber.

As far as I can see I’ve covered most of the things that people seem to have trouble with. I would have put pictures up if I had any but unfortunately I won’t be able to take any until March. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Dave

PS: I know some people go to some lengths to “balance” the combustion and exhaust side. My personal feeling is that this really isn’t necessary. The manual states that as long as the combustion intake pipe is less than 1.5m long and the exhaust is less than 2m you’ll be fine.
Posted by irish.david, WiKi'd By mocki

== Ringo on Eberspachers (D1LC compact specific) ==

Taken from [http://forum.80-90.co.uk/posting.php?mode=editpost&p=218600 this thread on our forum]

Right - i stripped down the eber to try and work out what was wrong with it and see how easy it was to change sensors etc..

Heres the eber without its casing:

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2395/2151471503_7d6598eb7b.jpg]]

You can see the two sensors, the glow plug, the control box and the blower motor in orange.

Heres another pic of the sensor locations with the sensors removed - you can see they sit flush to the heat exchanger. Its hthe sensor nearest the control box that is the overheat sensor - the other one is the flame sensor.

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2185/2152262328_ccf720df14.jpg]]

This one is of the eber after i have split the blower motor off it. This had a fair bit of carbon build up which i managed to get out with a wire brush. also the gasket had broken - not sure if this happened when i took it apart. Anyway a new one was constructed and it was replaced:

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/2152260620_a4da6e0100.jpg]]

Finally, i turned around the eber so there is no bend in the pipe for the hot air - this should keep the whole unit cooler. This should also keep T'Onion happy :) :

[[Image:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2355/2151465629_dd8c006c47.jpg]]

If you have read my other thread on the diagnostic tool you will know what im talking about. Anyway, it indicated that my overheat sensor may need checking. At £50 for a new sensor, im not going to just buy it and see if works - so i have replaced the sensor for a 1k1 ohm resistor. If this fixes the problem then i will get the sensor....

I havent tried it fully yet bit so far the eber seems to work a lot better - i will keep you updated...

Cheers

Ringo

== Scanned Eberspacher Manual (DL1C) ==

[[Image:EB_Instructions_01.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_02.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_03.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_04.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_05.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_06.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_07.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_08.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_09.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_10.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_11.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_12.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_13.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_14.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_15.jpg]]

[[Image:EB_Instructions_16.jpg]]

Petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement

2008-04-20T11:12:54Z

Mocki: Lifted from forum By mocki

From '''Meggles''', from forum

Remove rocker cover by prising off the retaining spring clip.

Remove the thin wire retaining clip which holds tubes in place(It has lots of bends in it, note how it fits).

Remove the bolts securing the rocker shaft.

Remove pushrods and note where they were from.

Carefully twist the tubes, especially if they are old and corroding (if too bad they'll need replacing), and ease away from the engine whilst still twisting, until they come loose.

Remove old seals and where the seals sit (both ends) in both the engine block, head and tubes give a good inspection and clean old seal bits out..

Grease/oil the new seals and put them on the tubes (different size at each end), and carefully replace tubes, twisting as you press them in (you'll feel them slot in to place).

Replace rocker shafts (11lb torque on nuts)

Replace the wire retaining clip (you took note of how it was removed, didn't you!!!).
Initial setting for rockers is to:

Position engine at TDC and slacken rocker nut on No1 cylinder, undo screw until it is no longer contacting rocker and then screw back in 'til it just makes contact with rocker. Now tighten 1/2 further turns and tighten locknut. Repeat for cylinders 2,3 and 4 by turning engine a quarter turn (distributor rotor will move by 90 degrees) in an anti clockwise direction.
Replace rocker cover (new gasket).
Hold gasket in place with sealer or similar. Best to use just common or garden multi grease on rocker cover gaskets, silicon makes it a one time seal, new gaskets every time .

Main Page

2008-04-20T11:07:58Z

Mocki: /* Aircooled */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== IMPORTANT ==
*[[what is wiki|WHAT IS WIKI? new users start here]]

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to this page and to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting. Please PM hacksawbob on the club 80-90 forums if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights at the moment. ''''Please login with your forum username and password''''

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, due to typos in the internal links)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. SPACE '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New/Prospective Owners=
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines ==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fuel lines fire warning| Fuel lines fire warning]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems| Vac advance/retard problems]]

==Aircooled==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature| Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled tinware| Aircooled tinware]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|engine removal]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Ignition timing - distributors, setting up]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|spark plugs]]
*Petrol engines - Aircooled Carburrettors

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|cylinder head spark plug numbers]]
* [[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]

== Diesel engines ==
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Intro and diagnosis]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
** [[Parts - Cylinder heads|Cylinder heads]]
** [[Parts - Piston damage|Piston damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Part Nos]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft]]
** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters recomended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]

----

==Exhausts==
*[[Exhausts|Exhausts]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*Injectors
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plug replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]

==Petrol==

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel System MPG|MPG]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Coolant==
* [[Coolant and Heating flashing red light on dash|flashing red light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands| Recommended brands]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]

==Heating==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|Heater blower replacement]]
* [[Heating - Insulating heater hoses|Insulating heater hoses]]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic recommended Oil|Recommended oil]]

==Manual specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|clutch slave replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance| Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch pedal not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Sloppy gear change improving]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange - Pictures and drawings]]
*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]
*[http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm Relitech on CV joints]
*[http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm Bartnik on CV joints]

----

= VW Electrics (not camping)=

* [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent Wipers]]
* [[VW Electrics Fitting uprated headlight kit|Fitting uprated headlight kit]]
* [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
* [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
* [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
* [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
* [[VW Electrics fuse box|Fuse box]]
* [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors| Electric wing mirrors]]
* [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
* [[VW Electrics front fog lights|front fog lights]]
* [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control Illumination]]
* [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
* [[Alternator Size Formula & Tutorial]]
[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering Geometry/Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres Recommended tyres| Recommended tyres]]
*[[wheels and tyres Wheels and tyres 15" alternative wheels| Alternative wheel rims]]
* [[Wheels and Tyres combinations that fit|Combinations that fit]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres tyre size calculator|Tyre size calculator]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres PCD|What fits (PCD list)]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Tyre pressures|Wheels and Tyres tyre pressures]]

----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]

----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

*[[Body work and glass Leaking windscreen| Leaking windscreen]]
*Painting your van
**[[Body work and glass Painting | Painting - General]]
**[[Body work and glass Roller painting | Paint your van for £50]]
*[[Body work and glass window removal and refitting| Window removal and refitting]]
*[[Body work and glass Doors | Doors]]
**[[Body work and glass Doors locks| Doors locks]]
*[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation| Insulation]]
*[[Body Work and Glass window scrapers |Window Scrapers]]

*[[Body Work and Glass - Rust| Rust ]]
*Areas that rust (for photos mainly)
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
** [[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
** [[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|seatbelt legality]]
==Seats==
There is a roll pin in the bar between the seat and the arm.
**[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
**[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
**[[Headrest fitting to rear seats]]
==Headlining/ interior panels==
**[[Interior non camping interior panels| interior panels]]
**[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]
==Cab Door Armrests==
**[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]
==Dashboard==
**[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
**[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Other==
**[[Interior non camping tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
**[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

= Camping Interior =

==Cupboards, beds, roofs, windows etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior Conversion specs and brochers|Conversion specs and brochures]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units| Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery| Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior Rock and roll bed hinges|Rock and roll bed hinges]]
* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Recipes]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]
----

= Campers =

==Exterior==
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]

==Conversions==
*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Trnsporter (1981)]]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page | Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General Mechanical Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw Types of screw fixings]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]
*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]

==Tools/Sundries/Techniques==

'''Tools'''
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]

'''Home made tools'''
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device| brake bleed pressure device]]

'''Sundries'''
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]

'''Techniques'''
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
----

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]

----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]
'''The "Naked Van" Project'''

Please post your pictures of hard to get to places and bits you dont normally see
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
----

=T25 Literature, Magazine Articles, Camper User Guides, Manuals, Specifications=
*[http://vwpix.terlinden.com/index_en.htm Almost every brochure and manual]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]

----

= Internet Links and Contacts=
==Parts Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]

==Internet links==
*[[Internet hightop freindly car parks|hightop friendly carparks]]
*[[Internet Links other t25 and vanagon resources|Other T25 and vanagon resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club supplier contacts]]
*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]
*[[Westy jokers]]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
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=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]
[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying parts from main dealer]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==
[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy (club members feedback)]]

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=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

Petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart

2008-03-21T12:32:00Z

Mocki:

'''Key in ignition No:''' you have lost your keys try starting the van when you have found them, check behind the sofa

'''yes:'''

'''Key to first position No:''' you have some one elses keys. Give them back Mark Onion!

'''Yes:'''

Lights on dashboard No: check battery for decent charge (12Volts plus) either recharge or jumpstart Also check battery connections are clean and tight. Possible wiring fault elsewhere, check ignition barrel has plug pushed firmly on

'''Yes:'''

'''As key goes to first position "CLICK" heard from rear No:''' Check ignition barrel plug and connections to starter motor are clean and tight.Its common for the signal wire to fall off the solenoid, or to corrode badly and make no contact, even tho it appears tight. Also check battery as above in "Lights on dashboard"

Firing order 1 - 4 - 3 - 2
Number one is the front right cylinder. When viewed from the rear

Petrol engines 1.9 Timing

2008-03-21T12:28:08Z

Mocki:

[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves| Comparative advance curves]]

'''HarryMann:''' 1.9 DH Ignition timing (DG with Digijet fuel-injection)

=== Before getting all this checked/reset === you should really quickly physically inspect that the vac/adv. and cent. unit 'seem' to be working OK, e.g. no obvious leaks in hoses, blockages at pressure tappings, and no gummed up dizzy. Because unless someone has been swinging that dizzy around lately, that's not what's wrong - it'll be the vac or cent. unit, so don't go swinging it around unless you know for sure it needs swinging! It might stop the popping back but lead to over-advance under load at speed if the dizzy's a mess.

== Here goes: timing a DH ===

Static timing 5 degrees ATDC +/- 1 degree (also at 900 rpm with vac hoses disconnected and ISU plugs disconnected from unit and plugged into each other)
That's After TDC, which may seem strange but is a consequence of the Vacuum Advance/Retard unit's operation, so...

You really must not trust a static setting, it needs strobe timing, so that can actually see the true advance working and check it at 3 conditions at least:-

Normal Idle 850 rpm +/- 50, test idle 900 rpm
Idle Stab. Control unit (on L/H engine flitch panel, near coil and Hall control unit) MUST have its plugs disconnected and joined together first..
Pull both hoses off vac/adv unit on dizzy

Firing order 1 - 4 - 3 - 2
Number one is the front right cylinder. When viewed from the rear

Set engine to 900 rpm, note down the advance angle... (against TDC mark). The following figures are relative to that figure, that is, in addition to the figure noted (which should be about 5 ATDC), so being After TDC you need to ADD that to the figures you see. (Subtract if its BTDC, true advance)

Cent. adv starts at: 1050~1150 rpm
@ 2400 rpm should be 16~20 deg.
@ 3800 rpm should be 21~25 deg.
and not increase thereafter.

== So if you find its 5 deg ATDC at 900 rpm, you'll be looking for about 13 deg. and 18 deg. at 2400 and 3800 rpm respectively. And the the strobe mark doesn't start moving until above about 1100 rpm ==

== If you find the static setting is out much, reset this first, provided you have followed the pre-test instructions properly ==

= Vacuum advance/retard = You can't test this accurately without a manifold vacuum gauge, and again you need to be thorough and not confused about the process - have a clear understanding of what your are doing and why. But you can at least quickly pop the pipes back on the vacuum unit one at a time to see that the timing does move i.e. the vac unit appears to work and hasn't got a broken diaphragm, or isn't 'stuck'.

Here are the figures if you need to get a garage mechanic to check/set it for you..

Same as before, except with vac unit's pipes conencted back up; ISU unit's two plugs connected together; idle at ~900 rpm and note down the basic timing setting first (so you can Add or Subtract it, depending on if its ATDC or BTDC respectively) then...

Vac Advance starts 190~230 mbar(14~17 cm Hg)
Ends @ 360 mbar (27 cm Hg) with 12~16 degress advance

Vac Retard starts 100~220 mbar (7.5~16.5 cm Hg)
Ends @ 260~360 mbar (19.5~27 cm Hg) with 9~11 degrees retard

Camping Interior Eberspacher

2007-12-24T10:01:39Z

Mocki: /* Mocki on Eberspachers */