VW T25(T3)-Tech - User contributions [en]

Camping Interior fridge removal

2008-04-23T22:51:36Z

Gti mad man:

Firstly be careful go slow and your be fine ,it may seem daunting it isn't:)
I wasn't sure but so glad i did
my fridge is so much colder and works on the mains :lol:

'''Note this is a 1 spanner job(suitable for novices)'''

'''Tools required'''

pozi screw driver
spanners 14mm and 15mm(though your gas unions may differ)
baby bottle brush long and thin
long haired paint brush
hoover
All purpose cleaner.

'''STEP ONE'''
Firstly disconnect gas from bottle and both batteries.

'''STEP TWO'''
Next undo the rear "white vent" (8 screws) this gave me great acess to remove the wires (remember to take a photo for reference)
Now you can remove the 4 screws from the electrolux cover ,remove the outer cover rubber flap and mount,then reach inside now and remove the vent tube and external these just pull off use gentle twisting action too free them up.
[img:320:240]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5701/gas1xh1.jpg[/img]

'''STEP THREE'''
Undo the 3 or 4 side screws in the cuboards (2 either side)
[img:320:240]http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5769/screwshf8.jpg[/img]
Remove control knobs (carefulyy pull off) and front facia(2 small screws)

'''STEP FOUR'''
Making sure fridge is empty, slowly pull fridge forward grabing top and bottom not the door! :!:

'''STEP FIVE'''
When fridge is far enough out disconnect the gas suply ontop of the fridge(you can see where mines removed on this picture)
[img:320:240]http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/5364/gas5xa91qo1.jpg[/img]

'''STEP SIX'''
Now you can remove the fridge,you should have a void like this,note sink waste pipes and tap supply(nows a good chance to check condition/replace these) :wink:
[img]http:320:240]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7669/gas2tp9.jpg[/img]
I had a good look behind here knowing there prone to rust luckily mines fine:)
[img:320:240]http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/7909/gas3hj8.jpg[/img]

'''STEP SEVEN'''
You can now turn your attention to cleaning/mending the fridge this is what they look like from the rear.....
[img:320:240]http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8062/gas4bm6.jpg[/img]

'''STEP EIGHT'''
Now you can dismantle the fridge(everything is simply self taper screwed on)
[img]http:320:240]http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/4868/gas6ob4.jpg[/img]
I used a long thin "bottle brush" and compreseed air down the exhaust and flues be careful not to go all the way and damage the components below.!
The drip tray was cleaned with fairy liquid and the whole casing wiped down with multi purpose cleaner.
Mark gave me a great tip get a long haired paint brush and dust and hoover the back of the fridge escpecialy the cooling fins(be very careful around the ignitor and jet area as these are delicate)

'''STEP NINE'''
Making sure door is closed turn fridge upside and leave upside down over night, this alows the refridgerant fluids/gases to mix and become more efficient again ,now go have a beer)

In true haynes manual stylie repalcing is opposite of removal
Please check gas joints .
'''Don't just use fairy liquid its corrosive!'''

Use a gas detector or get a qualified corgi gas man to check them if in doubt.

Also once running on gas check that theres no carbon monoxide being made :!: :!:

Camping Interior fridge removal

2008-04-23T22:37:06Z

Gti mad man:

Firstly be careful go slow and your be fine ,it may seem daunting it isn't:)
I wasn't sure but so glad i did
my fridge is so much colder and works on the mains :lol:

[i][u][b]Note this is a 1 spanner job(suitable for novices) [/b][/u][/i]
:D
[u][b]Tools required[/b][/u]
pozi screw driver
spanners 14mm and 15mm(though your gas unions may differ)
baby bottle brush long and thin
long haired paint brush
hoover
all purpose cleaner

[u][b]STEP ONE[/b][/u]
Firstly disconnect gas from bottle and both batteries.

[u][b]STEP TWO[/b][/u]
Next undo the rear "white vent" (8 screws) this gave me great acess to remove the wires (remember to take a photo for reference)
Now you can remove the 4 screws from the electrolux cover ,remove the outer cover rubber flap and mount,then reach inside now and remove the vent tube and external these just pull off use gentle twisting action too free them up.
[img:320:240]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5701/gas1xh1.jpg[/img]

[u][b]STEP THREE[/b][/u]
Undo the 3 or 4 side screws in the cuboards (2 either side)
[img:320:240]http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5769/screwshf8.jpg[/img]
Remove control knobs (carefulyy pull off) and front facia(2 small screws)

[u][b]STEP FOUR[/b][/u]
Making sure fridge is empty, slowly pull fridge forward grabing top and bottom not the door! :!:

[u][b]STEP FIVE[/b][/u]
When fridge is far enough out disconnect the gas suply ontop of the fridge(you can see where mines removed on this picture)
[img:320:240]http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/5364/gas5xa91qo1.jpg[/img]

[u][b]STEP SIX[/b][/u]
Now you can remove the fridge,you should have a void like this,note sink waste pipes and tap supply(nows a good chance to check condition/replace these) :wink:
[img]http:320:240]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7669/gas2tp9.jpg[/img]
I had a good look behind here knowing there prone to rust luckily mines fine:)
[img:320:240]http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/7909/gas3hj8.jpg[/img]

[u][b]STEP SEVEN[/b][/u]
You can now turn your attention to cleaning/mending the fridge this is what they look like from the rear.....
[img:320:240]http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8062/gas4bm6.jpg[/img]

[u][b]STEP EIGHT[/b][/u]
Now you can dismantle the fridge(everything is simply self taper screwed on)
[img]http:320:240]http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/4868/gas6ob4.jpg[/img]
I used a long thin "bottle brush" and compreseed air down the exhaust and flues be careful not to go all the way and damage the components below.!
The drip tray was cleaned with fairy liquid and the whole casing wiped down with multi purpose cleaner.
Mark gave me a great tip get a long haired paint brush and dust and hoover the back of the fridge escpecialy the cooling fins (be very careful around the ignitor and jet area as these are delicate)

[u][b]STEP NINE[/b][/u]
Making sure door is closed turn fridge upside and leave upside down over night, this alows the refridgerant fluids/gases to mix and become more efficient again ,now go have a beer)

:wink:

In true haynes manual stylie repalcing is opposite of removal
Please check gas joints .
[b]Don't just use fairy liquid its corrosive![/b]

Use a gas detector or get a qualified corgi gas man to check them if in doubt.

Also once running on gas check that theres no carbon monoxide being made :!: :!:

Fuel System Filler Problems

2008-03-16T11:48:44Z

Gti mad man:

'''Simon Baxter:''' When was the last time you looked at your fuel filler neck on your T3?

Specifically the rubber at the top that connects the flange (heh, I said flange) to the filler neck.

I just seem to be going through these at an alarming rate recently as almost all the vans that come in that have running problems have fuel filters that are full of water, both petrol and Diesel.

What is happening is the rubber part of the filler neck is deteriorationg to such a point where it cracks, then water spray fom the front wheel is making it's way through the hole and down the filler neck into the tank leaving you with a fuel tank containing water which leads to running problems.

I have started stocking these now as I cannot afford to let vans out knowing that it only takes one downpour to put a van out of service.

The metal ring that sits behind the rubber are always corroded and dropping in pieces too, so the often need replacing as does the large hose clamp that holds the rubber to the neck, I am replacing the hose clamp with a large cable tie or 2 as they don't rot!

The part numbers for the rubber and the ring are as follows.

Rubber - 251 201 119 D - £ 12.84 +VAT (ish)

Metal ring - 251 201 197 - £ 2.64 +VAT (ish)

These parts fit all 2WD models, including the early tank style with the metal filler neck.

Although your local VW dealer won't stock these, Milton Keynes hold a fair few and should be available for next day delivery.

'''Jen:''' Completely different, yet the same, my Syncro's damage was to the filler pipe - and the neck was corroded so much it just gave in completely - so it isn't just 2wd's......

'''HarryMann:''' Thanks very much, will Wiki that.

The syncro can also have a whole variety of problems with the filler system, from Jen's corroded neck right down to the tube along the chassis rail on van based models (corrodes and leaks), as well as breather tube problems etc. Even heard of fuel coming out of the key-hole in locking caps recently.

Another tip on Syncros, is to always put the filler nozzle as far into the filler tube as possible, but don't bash the thing on the way in and don't fill too fast or try to overfill.

It's almost impossible to get the quoted 70 odd litres in anyway (without everything being in perfect order and chocking up the right side rear wheel).

*******Gti mad man*******
Thanks simon/wiki i checked mien and glad i did i was treated to this........
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4346/dscf3393nj9.jpg[/img]

Fuel System Filler Problems

2008-03-16T11:48:35Z

Gti mad man:

'''Simon Baxter:''' When was the last time you looked at your fuel filler neck on your T3?

Specifically the rubber at the top that connects the flange (heh, I said flange) to the filler neck.

I just seem to be going through these at an alarming rate recently as almost all the vans that come in that have running problems have fuel filters that are full of water, both petrol and Diesel.

What is happening is the rubber part of the filler neck is deteriorationg to such a point where it cracks, then water spray fom the front wheel is making it's way through the hole and down the filler neck into the tank leaving you with a fuel tank containing water which leads to running problems.

I have started stocking these now as I cannot afford to let vans out knowing that it only takes one downpour to put a van out of service.

The metal ring that sits behind the rubber are always corroded and dropping in pieces too, so the often need replacing as does the large hose clamp that holds the rubber to the neck, I am replacing the hose clamp with a large cable tie or 2 as they don't rot!

The part numbers for the rubber and the ring are as follows.

Rubber - 251 201 119 D - £ 12.84 +VAT (ish)

Metal ring - 251 201 197 - £ 2.64 +VAT (ish)

These parts fit all 2WD models, including the early tank style with the metal filler neck.

Although your local VW dealer won't stock these, Milton Keynes hold a fair few and should be available for next day delivery.

'''Jen:''' Completely different, yet the same, my Syncro's damage was to the filler pipe - and the neck was corroded so much it just gave in completely - so it isn't just 2wd's......

'''HarryMann:''' Thanks very much, will Wiki that.

The syncro can also have a whole variety of problems with the filler system, from Jen's corroded neck right down to the tube along the chassis rail on van based models (corrodes and leaks), as well as breather tube problems etc. Even heard of fuel coming out of the key-hole in locking caps recently.

Another tip on Syncros, is to always put the filler nozzle as far into the filler tube as possible, but don't bash the thing on the way in and don't fill too fast or try to overfill.

It's almost impossible to get the quoted 70 odd litres in anyway (without everything being in perfect order and chocking up the right side rear wheel).

*******Gti mad man*******

Thanks simon/wiki i checked mien and glad i did i was treated to this........

[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4346/dscf3393nj9.jpg[/img]