VW T25(T3)-Tech - User contributions [en]

Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures

2016-11-03T08:36:17Z

Ghost123uk: /* Photobucket instructions */

'''Hacksawbob'''

==Photobucket instructions==

First you need to go to [http://www.photobucket.com/ www.photobucket.com]
And register for an account, once you have done this and verified your account through the email they send you, you can follow the video below.

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jehxvujkalM Click here for a you tube video on how to make your image appear on club80-90] It is actually showing a different forum (scoobycity) but the principle is the same.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

''' Ghost123uk added our "Smiffo's" very good "how to" =

There are many different ways to upload pics - but all seem to need to be links to an external site rather than uploaded to here.

I have some steps below which assume the most basic starting point.
i.e. No Facebook and no Photobucket account and your photos already stored on your desktop.
( I did this so that it doesn't matter whether you have a Macbook or Windows based computer, these steps should be the same:

Firstly, log onto a site known as Photobucket at: http://WWW.PHOTOBUCKET.COM
This is a free site but you do have to endure adverts. It is the lesser of two evils for me..!!

Once there, click on the `sign up` bit that is in Orange in my screenshot below:

[[File:Photobucket1.png]]

Once there you need to set up the account. If you already have one or are logging in after setting it up, then just click `Log In` next to the orange `Sign Up` tab and enter your details.

You should now have a page very similar to this ( albeit with a different user name and photos..!! :

[[File:Photobucketq2.png]]

Now, to upload photos you click the `Upload` tab near the top

[[File:Photobucketq3.png]]

Once this opens, shrink your page down a bit so that you can see your desktop with your photos on it, behind on your screen. You should now see something similar to this screen:

[[File:Photobucketq4.png]]

All you then need to do is drag the photo you want from your desktop ( that you can see in the background ) and drop it into the area on the Photoshop page that says `Drag and Drop Photos`....

Do that for all your photos you want to share, but do them one at a time as the site can be slow and cumbersome at times.

Assuming you have reached that point, your photos are now held online on the Photobucket site.
The next step is to take the link that you will be posting into your Club 80-90 comment, and paste it into the place you want it.

So, click on the bit that says `Library` near the top left of your screen:

[[File:Photobucketq5.png]]

You should then see something like this, which is the page with all your stored photos listed for you:

[[File:Photobucketq2.png]]

All you need to do is find the photo stored on Photobucket you want to share, and click it.
Then you will be presented with a screen like the following:

[[File:Photobucketq7.png]]

You will see a large picture of the photo you want to share, and, if you look closely on the right hand side, you will see a box under the heading `Share Photo` that says `IMG` next to it. This link is specific to the photo displayed.
( It is the 4th one down in my screenshot under that heading. )

Copy that address from the box - by just clicking on it. You should ( I think ) see it highlight yellow and display the word `Copied`displayed briefly.
Then goto the comment section here on Club 80-90 where you want the photo to drop between text lines, and paste it like this:

[[File:Photobucketq8.png]]

( to paste the copied text, you right click your mouse and then click `Paste` if you have a Windows computer, or if you have a Mac, you will need to hold `CTRL` and click the mouse button before clicking `Paste` )

And bingo - post the comment and that URL address you cut and pasted in will be replaced with the photo you want to share...
It will be in the format of this reply..!!

There are many different ways to do it, but I have shown these steps as it will help you start from a base point. When you familarise yourself with it all you will be linking Facebook pictures, no doubt. ( You can also log into Photobucket via Facebook I think. )

Good luck and I hope this helped you. Ask if something doesn't make sense.
Now you can post some pics of your van..!!

File:Photobucketq7.png

2016-11-03T08:31:07Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq8.png

2016-11-03T08:25:03Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq6.png

2016-11-03T08:24:52Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq5.png

2016-11-03T08:24:24Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq4.png

2016-11-03T08:24:16Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq3.png

2016-11-03T08:24:03Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucketq2.png

2016-11-03T08:20:40Z

Ghost123uk:

File:Photobucket1.png

2016-11-03T08:13:06Z

Ghost123uk:

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:35:44Z

Ghost123uk: /* London */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "''Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "''My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time"'' - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490.

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: "''He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!"''

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = "''After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area."''

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:35:24Z

Ghost123uk: /* London */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "''My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time"'' - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490.

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: "''He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!"''

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = "''After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area."''

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:34:38Z

Ghost123uk: /* Surrey & Sussex */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490.

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: "''He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!"''

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = "''After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area."''

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:33:00Z

Ghost123uk: /* Yorkshire */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490.

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: "''He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!"''

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:31:22Z

Ghost123uk: /* Yorkshire */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490.

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-27T10:29:00Z

Ghost123uk: /* Yorkshire */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Richard Welch Nottinghamshire''' - Name: Richard Welch Transport, Address: Pleasley Park Farm House, Wood Lane, Pleasley Vale, NG19 8RY Pleasley Vale, Nottinghamshire, Phone: 01623 742490, Website = http://pleasley-vale.cylex-uk.co.uk/company/richard-welch-transport-14058959.html

Recommended by 80-90 member '''Ian and Lins''' who says: He is savvy with older vehicles and is getting to know our T25 very well and some other Club 80-90 members vans too. Fair on price and very approachable on advice. Just mention that Ian & Lindsay at a*** Row put you on to him!

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1

2015-10-27T09:33:19Z

Ghost123uk: /* Examining Front Components */

==Introduction==

Intro by Covkid:

''After 20 odd years and probably millions of gear changes, the gear change assembly simply wears out - as indeed do some parts of the gearbox eventually. Even with a good box, it can reach a point where some gears are very difficult to get into indeed and the whole thing starts to feel like you're driving the earlier bay window with the gear stick like a wooden spoon in a mixing bowl. Combined wear in gear change components adds up to magnified problems at the gear stick and this could well be why so many gears sticks snap - from frustration.''

Note: Its worth considering before we move on, that a tired/worn or even leaky clutch slave cylinder will also cause very difficult gear changing so examine that first.

''Whilst all the new parts combined are certainly not cheap, you may only need some of them. Replacing broken or worn parts can certainly transform the whole gear change train (it goes front to back remember). Most are available via Brickwerks and a few other outlets. If you're reading this you have probably already reached a point of no return anyway and now, thoroughly demoralised, need to sort the assembly out for good.''

''This detailed two-part article was penned and illustrated by member mm289, and shows the component parts, common wear points and how to restore a five gear change assembly to original state. Clearly broken or severely damaged metal parts may need welding or fabricating etc but usually the wear is in the nylon parts which are readily available. Other items could be made up from scrap where prudent to do so. Some previously obsolete parts are becoming available too as owners begin to start fabricating their own in small batches. This trend, encouragingly, is likely to continue with the T25 already having reached cult status - hoorah for that.''

''There may be very minor differences between years, and certainly between petrol and diesel versions (as I point out here and there) but the layout is still very similar. Wear points can be worse in some areas than others and but its as well to remember that none of this will put right a worn out gearbox. As a starting point to improve gear changes, this is a positive start though. This two-part article which includes links to the Brickwerks catalogue (if you're not a fabricator), is specifically about the highly-prized 5-speed but much shown here will apply to the 4-speed mechanism too albeit with variations. A 4-speed page can be found at http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_4_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1. You do not need to be a mechanic to do this job but you will need tools.
''
This article was updated in February 2013.

Now its over to mm289....

==The Wear Factor==

The gear lever end looks like this underneath. In my case, there is a lot of movement. Movement in the shaft where it goes through the floor, the fact that stick will actually lift out (see photos) and a lot of gap between the fork bushes and guides. This section alone makes for a badly worn and less-certain gear change and we haven't even got to the rest yet!

Remember that the gear lever is indeed a lever so when you push left from inside the cab, it actually moves right underneath and if you push up, the gear change mechanism moves towards the rear of the vehicle.

[[file:gshift1.jpg]]

Below: At the actual gear lever, component wear here contributes to excessive travel for the gear stick and vague gear changes. Worn aluminium guide blocks, fork ends and other missing or worn parts demonstrate the amount of play that can develop.

[[file:gshift2.jpg]]

Turning to the rear end where the mechanism meets with the side of the gearbox, the selector ball joint can also have noticeable lateral and vertical movement

[[file:gshift3.jpg]]

To give you some idea of the effects of all this wear, we can see just how much movement is created at the gearstick.

First lateral:

[[file:gshift4.jpg]]

And vertical:

[[file:gshift5.jpg]]

==Tentative First Steps==

The first job is to remove the gear knob (unscrews) then lift the cab mat and gear lever gaiter.

''Covkid: On the Caravelle, this is slightly different as some have a section of wide flat plastic trunking which sits on top of the gear lever, designed to push heat from the front to the rear passenger department (at the expense of cold knees in the front in my experience). To remove this trunking section, first remove the plastic cowling just behind the gear lever by pulling it towards you evenly (on the extreme left in photo below). To remove trunking, there are usually four screws/bolts which fasten it to the floor, a line of screws at the rear and you may need to remove a seat belt fastener to get the room needed to lift it out - generally the passenger one.''

[[file:gshift6.jpg]]

Pictured below, the base of the gear lever often exhibits a great deal of wear. Access to the lever fork and guides is gained from underneath once the spare wheel carrier is dropped down:

[[file:gshift7.jpg]]

==Strip Down - Front End==

At this point, you'll need to begin work underneath. Get some gloves on - this will be dirty work until you've cleaned everything. Undo bolts “1”, 13mm, also hold the shift guides (lumps of aluminium at the base of this box) in place so don’t lose them! Next bolts “2”, 4 off 10mm and then remove the carrier. Finally bolts “3” and the housing is free.

'''Covkid:''' ''On my 85 5-speed Petrol Caravelle, only four 10mm nuts (number 3 in diagram) held the housing in place. No additional bracing piece was in evidence either - presumably one of the main differences between diesel and petrol models here. This meant that the housing, complete with ally guide blocks came off as one. Much easier.
''

[[file:gshift8.jpg]]

Finally undo the bolt securing the lever fork to the shift rod and the whole assembly will drop down through the floor.

[[file:gshift9.jpg]]

This is what the linkage looks like complete with odd bits of debris (inset) found

[[file:gshift10.jpg]]

Undo the two bolts (10mm) on the top of the bearing housing and push out the rubber guide. In my case this pretty much fell apart. Also undo the grub screw in the bushing on the gear lever holding the top spring in place.Now the whole assembly will slide off up the gear lever.

Below: Disassembled 'upper' parts from gear lever assembly:

[[file:gshift11.jpg]]

Below: After an initial clean up of lower assembly components

[[file:gshift12.jpg]]

==Examining Front Components==

Now to disassemble the spring and pin that creates the “detent” you push against to get 1st & reverse on a 5 speed (dog leg 1st on these puppies – just like a Ferrari) :wink:

Remove the rubber gaiter (above right) and you will see a spring over the guide pin held in place by a c-clip as shown below (left). Remove the c-clip (it will spring off so be careful not to lose it) and spring.

[[file:gshift13.jpg]]

Now PROCEED CAREFULLY, because the detent is created by a ball bearing under pressure from a spring which pushes against a collar on the pin, if you just shove the pin out the ball bearing will pop out and run away – go on ask me how I know.

[[file:gshift14.jpg]]

Photo on the right shows the aluminium guide blocks. Although obsolete from VW now, member Silverbullet makes new ones! Alternatively you could build up the worn shoulder with ally weld and grind back. Your choice but Silverbullet's are superior quality to originals - see below for comparison. Link: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=85849&hilit=aluminium+blocks (minor edit by ghost123uk = that link is dead now, but here is a link to the same parts from Brickwerks = https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/selector-lever-guide-t3-5-spd.html (5 speed - I cannot find a listing for 4 speed ones at this time)

[[file:guideblocksnew.jpg]]

Below: Heres a comparison shot of worn fork ends and one fitted with new ones. New fork ends and new guide blocks not only make gear selection more of an exact science, they help reduce lateral play at the gear stick. A fork end kit is available for approx £27 from https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-fork-repair-kit-t3-5-speed.html (5 speed) and https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/selector-fork-repair-kit-t3-4-speed-syncro.html (4 speed)

'''Covkid:''' ''Its also possible if you're on as very tight budget to replace the broken fork ends with some heavy-duty hose, flattened and slid on to the fork ends (tight fit needed) and secured with a suitable adhesive. I did this on mine and it worked out fine. However, the blocks above probably have far better wear characteristics. Will let you know in ten years.
''

''Another thing you might like to consider is the gaiters used on selector shaft (front to back). Often missing or breaking up, and again, not cheap, I struggled to find a suitable length of this proper concertina type tubing anywhere. However, not a person to give up, in Wilkinsons I bought three black funnels (with flexible concertina spouts) for under £3 each. It was quite simple to cut the flexible part away and use these as gaiters. Do the maths on that one but there was quite a saving.''

[[file:gshift15.jpg]]

==Replacing Front Components==

'''Covkid:''' ''Below - this is what new parts look like. Brickwerks original kit (and at one time available from VW) cost around £50. A full kit can (I think) be obtained for aircooled vans with the 12mm gearstick but the 14mm (later watercoooled) is completely obsolete now. However, Brickwerks have solved this and replaced the original kit with two slightly less comprehensive kits - one for 12mm gear sticks and one for 14mm sticks (use an open-ended spanner to decide which size yours is). Heres the link to the 14mm one but check you have all the parts you'll need:'' https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-repair-kit-t3-14mm-2198.html

''As Brickwerks rightfully point out, the 12mm and 14mm gear lever parts are in fact identical with the exception of one half of the plastic ball and this part is included to make the 12mm into a 14mm kit. Other outlets stock ONE kit and say it fits all, but I'm not convinced and inclined to believe Brickwerks on this. They do say it is a compromise. However, I found that this additional part, whilst welcome, needed a little reworking around the edges where it meets the other part of the ball mechanism as it kept catching when installed on mine, despite the grease. It took some figuring out to work out why this was happening but smoothing the edges of the replacement part with a little sandpaper soon sorted the problem. In any event its a cheaper kit than the one previously stocked and to be honest, some of the parts in the original larger kit may not have been needed anyway.''

''For reference, if you look below, the new kit now includes everything from left to right up to and including the base plate but the spring and grubscrew collar on the right is not in the kit. Chances are, yours will be fine anyway.''

[[file:gshift16.jpg]]

Now assemble the new bearing (plastic ball joint). The two plastic shells are pushed into the rubber guide (looks like a big cog!). The lower ball half is then pushed into the shells, the spring fitted and the upper ball half pushed in as well. Lots of moly grease applied and the assembled bearing looks like this (below left). The next stage is to press the whole thing into the new housing supplied in kit (below right).

If you have the new kit, its probably pre-assembled. If you ordered the 14mm one, you'll need to press out the whole assembly from the base plate (push down around the edges and eventually it'll come out) and replace the 12mm part for the 14mm one. You need strong hands for this.

[[file:gshift17.jpg]]

At this stage, theoretically, you could slide the bearing and housing onto the gear lever, put the final spring on and then lock in place with the bushing and grub screw (which screws into a recess on the gear lever so can only go in one place.)
If you did this your assembled unit would look like this. HOWEVER....

[[file:gshift18.jpg]]

...I can’t now fit it into the shift mechanism housing! You need to put the gear lever through the housing '''first''' and then put on the bearing housing etc.

'''Covkid:''' ''On the 5 speed 85 petrol (and some other years) you CAN put the whole assembly through as one. It differs as shown below:
''

Now moving to the end of the gear lever and the guide pin and spring. This was cleaned and re-assembled. The only tricky bit is depressing the spring and ball bearing whilst you push in the pin – not too difficult really though.

'''Covkid:''' ''The original '251 711 248 A' boot was split and when this article was penned, could still be purchased via Brickwerks from around £14. It is completely obsolete at VW. You'll need to check on stock.

''Its not cheap at all considering what it is, but presumably small production runs or limited availability sometimes inflate what are relatively simple bits of plastic on vehicles. That said, it is difficult to see what else could be used until recently I had cause to replace one and had to think quickly on my feet. On a visit to Wilkinsons I came across a black flexible funnel for topping up oil where the concertina part was virtually identical in width and only £2.99. A minor mod to seal one end (work it out yourself) and I was good to go. The same funnel also doubled up as protective sleeves for bushes along the shift rod. Whatever you use in this area, remember that grease/solvents can affect some materials, as can wear.''

On the other end of the guide pin assembly is a plastic cap (inset below) that stops dirt entering the bushing and also acts as a buffer to protect the end of the assembly hitting the housing when rocking the gear lever from left to right in neutral. (if you move the stick from left to right as you would when checking you are in neutral and get a metallic clunk, then likely this cap is broken/missing like it was on mine).

For the moment I have improvised a cover to stop dirt getting in (couple of fingers from used gloves, but will have to make something more robust if can’t find the right part!

VW still have this part, as do Brickwerks just under a fiver) - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1079&category_id=99 or you may even find something suitable around the home to replace it with.

[[file:gshift19.jpg]]

And then the whole unit assembled:

[[file:gshift20.jpg]]

Next to replace the 2 'top hat' bushes in the end of the shift rod. NOTE: these are no longer included in the overhaul kit but available separately. Old bushes can just be prised out with a sharp screwdriver and then replaced. These bushes allow for some degree of movement between fork end and shift rod that goes to the rear. They're under £4 for the pair: http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1439&category_id=99

[[file:gshift21.jpg]]

Inset below: This is the reverse gear lock, it bolts to the inside of the mechanism housing and stops you shifting straight into reverse.

When you go for reverse the left movement pushes against the guide pin/spring and then you press the gear lever down, which pushes the square lug on the back of the shift lever underneath the reverse gear lock. Hence reverse can only be selected with a left AND down movement.

Before moving onto replacing the bushes in the rest of the shift mechanism I wanted to see what difference just overhauling the bearing and shift mechanism had made, so reassembled the housing. Lateral movement at gear stick now reduced from 8" to 6.5" and vertical, a reduction of 1/2" although I've yet to tackle play along rest of change rod.

[[file:gshift22.jpg]]

Now on to [Part 2]http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt2

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1

2015-10-27T09:27:21Z

Ghost123uk: /* Examining Front Components */

==Introduction==

Intro by Covkid:

''After 20 odd years and probably millions of gear changes, the gear change assembly simply wears out - as indeed do some parts of the gearbox eventually. Even with a good box, it can reach a point where some gears are very difficult to get into indeed and the whole thing starts to feel like you're driving the earlier bay window with the gear stick like a wooden spoon in a mixing bowl. Combined wear in gear change components adds up to magnified problems at the gear stick and this could well be why so many gears sticks snap - from frustration.''

Note: Its worth considering before we move on, that a tired/worn or even leaky clutch slave cylinder will also cause very difficult gear changing so examine that first.

''Whilst all the new parts combined are certainly not cheap, you may only need some of them. Replacing broken or worn parts can certainly transform the whole gear change train (it goes front to back remember). Most are available via Brickwerks and a few other outlets. If you're reading this you have probably already reached a point of no return anyway and now, thoroughly demoralised, need to sort the assembly out for good.''

''This detailed two-part article was penned and illustrated by member mm289, and shows the component parts, common wear points and how to restore a five gear change assembly to original state. Clearly broken or severely damaged metal parts may need welding or fabricating etc but usually the wear is in the nylon parts which are readily available. Other items could be made up from scrap where prudent to do so. Some previously obsolete parts are becoming available too as owners begin to start fabricating their own in small batches. This trend, encouragingly, is likely to continue with the T25 already having reached cult status - hoorah for that.''

''There may be very minor differences between years, and certainly between petrol and diesel versions (as I point out here and there) but the layout is still very similar. Wear points can be worse in some areas than others and but its as well to remember that none of this will put right a worn out gearbox. As a starting point to improve gear changes, this is a positive start though. This two-part article which includes links to the Brickwerks catalogue (if you're not a fabricator), is specifically about the highly-prized 5-speed but much shown here will apply to the 4-speed mechanism too albeit with variations. A 4-speed page can be found at http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_4_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1. You do not need to be a mechanic to do this job but you will need tools.
''
This article was updated in February 2013.

Now its over to mm289....

==The Wear Factor==

The gear lever end looks like this underneath. In my case, there is a lot of movement. Movement in the shaft where it goes through the floor, the fact that stick will actually lift out (see photos) and a lot of gap between the fork bushes and guides. This section alone makes for a badly worn and less-certain gear change and we haven't even got to the rest yet!

Remember that the gear lever is indeed a lever so when you push left from inside the cab, it actually moves right underneath and if you push up, the gear change mechanism moves towards the rear of the vehicle.

[[file:gshift1.jpg]]

Below: At the actual gear lever, component wear here contributes to excessive travel for the gear stick and vague gear changes. Worn aluminium guide blocks, fork ends and other missing or worn parts demonstrate the amount of play that can develop.

[[file:gshift2.jpg]]

Turning to the rear end where the mechanism meets with the side of the gearbox, the selector ball joint can also have noticeable lateral and vertical movement

[[file:gshift3.jpg]]

To give you some idea of the effects of all this wear, we can see just how much movement is created at the gearstick.

First lateral:

[[file:gshift4.jpg]]

And vertical:

[[file:gshift5.jpg]]

==Tentative First Steps==

The first job is to remove the gear knob (unscrews) then lift the cab mat and gear lever gaiter.

''Covkid: On the Caravelle, this is slightly different as some have a section of wide flat plastic trunking which sits on top of the gear lever, designed to push heat from the front to the rear passenger department (at the expense of cold knees in the front in my experience). To remove this trunking section, first remove the plastic cowling just behind the gear lever by pulling it towards you evenly (on the extreme left in photo below). To remove trunking, there are usually four screws/bolts which fasten it to the floor, a line of screws at the rear and you may need to remove a seat belt fastener to get the room needed to lift it out - generally the passenger one.''

[[file:gshift6.jpg]]

Pictured below, the base of the gear lever often exhibits a great deal of wear. Access to the lever fork and guides is gained from underneath once the spare wheel carrier is dropped down:

[[file:gshift7.jpg]]

==Strip Down - Front End==

At this point, you'll need to begin work underneath. Get some gloves on - this will be dirty work until you've cleaned everything. Undo bolts “1”, 13mm, also hold the shift guides (lumps of aluminium at the base of this box) in place so don’t lose them! Next bolts “2”, 4 off 10mm and then remove the carrier. Finally bolts “3” and the housing is free.

'''Covkid:''' ''On my 85 5-speed Petrol Caravelle, only four 10mm nuts (number 3 in diagram) held the housing in place. No additional bracing piece was in evidence either - presumably one of the main differences between diesel and petrol models here. This meant that the housing, complete with ally guide blocks came off as one. Much easier.
''

[[file:gshift8.jpg]]

Finally undo the bolt securing the lever fork to the shift rod and the whole assembly will drop down through the floor.

[[file:gshift9.jpg]]

This is what the linkage looks like complete with odd bits of debris (inset) found

[[file:gshift10.jpg]]

Undo the two bolts (10mm) on the top of the bearing housing and push out the rubber guide. In my case this pretty much fell apart. Also undo the grub screw in the bushing on the gear lever holding the top spring in place.Now the whole assembly will slide off up the gear lever.

Below: Disassembled 'upper' parts from gear lever assembly:

[[file:gshift11.jpg]]

Below: After an initial clean up of lower assembly components

[[file:gshift12.jpg]]

==Examining Front Components==

Now to disassemble the spring and pin that creates the “detent” you push against to get 1st & reverse on a 5 speed (dog leg 1st on these puppies – just like a Ferrari) :wink:

Remove the rubber gaiter (above right) and you will see a spring over the guide pin held in place by a c-clip as shown below (left). Remove the c-clip (it will spring off so be careful not to lose it) and spring.

[[file:gshift13.jpg]]

Now PROCEED CAREFULLY, because the detent is created by a ball bearing under pressure from a spring which pushes against a collar on the pin, if you just shove the pin out the ball bearing will pop out and run away – go on ask me how I know.

[[file:gshift14.jpg]]

Photo on the right shows the aluminium guide blocks. Although obsolete from VW now, member Silverbullet makes new ones! Alternatively you could build up the worn shoulder with ally weld and grind back. Your choice but Silverbullet's are superior quality to originals - see below for comparison. Link: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=85849&hilit=aluminium+blocks

[[file:guideblocksnew.jpg]]

Below: Heres a comparison shot of worn fork ends and one fitted with new ones. New fork ends and new guide blocks not only make gear selection more of an exact science, they help reduce lateral play at the gear stick. A fork end kit is available for approx £27 from https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-fork-repair-kit-t3-5-speed.html (5 speed) and https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/selector-fork-repair-kit-t3-4-speed-syncro.html (4 speed)

'''Covkid:''' ''Its also possible if you're on as very tight budget to replace the broken fork ends with some heavy-duty hose, flattened and slid on to the fork ends (tight fit needed) and secured with a suitable adhesive. I did this on mine and it worked out fine. However, the blocks above probably have far better wear characteristics. Will let you know in ten years.
''

''Another thing you might like to consider is the gaiters used on selector shaft (front to back). Often missing or breaking up, and again, not cheap, I struggled to find a suitable length of this proper concertina type tubing anywhere. However, not a person to give up, in Wilkinsons I bought three black funnels (with flexible concertina spouts) for under £3 each. It was quite simple to cut the flexible part away and use these as gaiters. Do the maths on that one but there was quite a saving.''

[[file:gshift15.jpg]]

==Replacing Front Components==

'''Covkid:''' ''Below - this is what new parts look like. Brickwerks original kit (and at one time available from VW) cost around £50. A full kit can (I think) be obtained for aircooled vans with the 12mm gearstick but the 14mm (later watercoooled) is completely obsolete now. However, Brickwerks have solved this and replaced the original kit with two slightly less comprehensive kits - one for 12mm gear sticks and one for 14mm sticks (use an open-ended spanner to decide which size yours is). Heres the link to the 14mm one but check you have all the parts you'll need:'' https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-repair-kit-t3-14mm-2198.html

''As Brickwerks rightfully point out, the 12mm and 14mm gear lever parts are in fact identical with the exception of one half of the plastic ball and this part is included to make the 12mm into a 14mm kit. Other outlets stock ONE kit and say it fits all, but I'm not convinced and inclined to believe Brickwerks on this. They do say it is a compromise. However, I found that this additional part, whilst welcome, needed a little reworking around the edges where it meets the other part of the ball mechanism as it kept catching when installed on mine, despite the grease. It took some figuring out to work out why this was happening but smoothing the edges of the replacement part with a little sandpaper soon sorted the problem. In any event its a cheaper kit than the one previously stocked and to be honest, some of the parts in the original larger kit may not have been needed anyway.''

''For reference, if you look below, the new kit now includes everything from left to right up to and including the base plate but the spring and grubscrew collar on the right is not in the kit. Chances are, yours will be fine anyway.''

[[file:gshift16.jpg]]

Now assemble the new bearing (plastic ball joint). The two plastic shells are pushed into the rubber guide (looks like a big cog!). The lower ball half is then pushed into the shells, the spring fitted and the upper ball half pushed in as well. Lots of moly grease applied and the assembled bearing looks like this (below left). The next stage is to press the whole thing into the new housing supplied in kit (below right).

If you have the new kit, its probably pre-assembled. If you ordered the 14mm one, you'll need to press out the whole assembly from the base plate (push down around the edges and eventually it'll come out) and replace the 12mm part for the 14mm one. You need strong hands for this.

[[file:gshift17.jpg]]

At this stage, theoretically, you could slide the bearing and housing onto the gear lever, put the final spring on and then lock in place with the bushing and grub screw (which screws into a recess on the gear lever so can only go in one place.)
If you did this your assembled unit would look like this. HOWEVER....

[[file:gshift18.jpg]]

...I can’t now fit it into the shift mechanism housing! You need to put the gear lever through the housing '''first''' and then put on the bearing housing etc.

'''Covkid:''' ''On the 5 speed 85 petrol (and some other years) you CAN put the whole assembly through as one. It differs as shown below:
''

Now moving to the end of the gear lever and the guide pin and spring. This was cleaned and re-assembled. The only tricky bit is depressing the spring and ball bearing whilst you push in the pin – not too difficult really though.

'''Covkid:''' ''The original '251 711 248 A' boot was split and when this article was penned, could still be purchased via Brickwerks from around £14. It is completely obsolete at VW. You'll need to check on stock.

''Its not cheap at all considering what it is, but presumably small production runs or limited availability sometimes inflate what are relatively simple bits of plastic on vehicles. That said, it is difficult to see what else could be used until recently I had cause to replace one and had to think quickly on my feet. On a visit to Wilkinsons I came across a black flexible funnel for topping up oil where the concertina part was virtually identical in width and only £2.99. A minor mod to seal one end (work it out yourself) and I was good to go. The same funnel also doubled up as protective sleeves for bushes along the shift rod. Whatever you use in this area, remember that grease/solvents can affect some materials, as can wear.''

On the other end of the guide pin assembly is a plastic cap (inset below) that stops dirt entering the bushing and also acts as a buffer to protect the end of the assembly hitting the housing when rocking the gear lever from left to right in neutral. (if you move the stick from left to right as you would when checking you are in neutral and get a metallic clunk, then likely this cap is broken/missing like it was on mine).

For the moment I have improvised a cover to stop dirt getting in (couple of fingers from used gloves, but will have to make something more robust if can’t find the right part!

VW still have this part, as do Brickwerks just under a fiver) - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1079&category_id=99 or you may even find something suitable around the home to replace it with.

[[file:gshift19.jpg]]

And then the whole unit assembled:

[[file:gshift20.jpg]]

Next to replace the 2 'top hat' bushes in the end of the shift rod. NOTE: these are no longer included in the overhaul kit but available separately. Old bushes can just be prised out with a sharp screwdriver and then replaced. These bushes allow for some degree of movement between fork end and shift rod that goes to the rear. They're under £4 for the pair: http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1439&category_id=99

[[file:gshift21.jpg]]

Inset below: This is the reverse gear lock, it bolts to the inside of the mechanism housing and stops you shifting straight into reverse.

When you go for reverse the left movement pushes against the guide pin/spring and then you press the gear lever down, which pushes the square lug on the back of the shift lever underneath the reverse gear lock. Hence reverse can only be selected with a left AND down movement.

Before moving onto replacing the bushes in the rest of the shift mechanism I wanted to see what difference just overhauling the bearing and shift mechanism had made, so reassembled the housing. Lateral movement at gear stick now reduced from 8" to 6.5" and vertical, a reduction of 1/2" although I've yet to tackle play along rest of change rod.

[[file:gshift22.jpg]]

Now on to [Part 2]http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt2

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1

2015-10-27T09:25:18Z

Ghost123uk: /* Replacing Front Components */

==Introduction==

Intro by Covkid:

''After 20 odd years and probably millions of gear changes, the gear change assembly simply wears out - as indeed do some parts of the gearbox eventually. Even with a good box, it can reach a point where some gears are very difficult to get into indeed and the whole thing starts to feel like you're driving the earlier bay window with the gear stick like a wooden spoon in a mixing bowl. Combined wear in gear change components adds up to magnified problems at the gear stick and this could well be why so many gears sticks snap - from frustration.''

Note: Its worth considering before we move on, that a tired/worn or even leaky clutch slave cylinder will also cause very difficult gear changing so examine that first.

''Whilst all the new parts combined are certainly not cheap, you may only need some of them. Replacing broken or worn parts can certainly transform the whole gear change train (it goes front to back remember). Most are available via Brickwerks and a few other outlets. If you're reading this you have probably already reached a point of no return anyway and now, thoroughly demoralised, need to sort the assembly out for good.''

''This detailed two-part article was penned and illustrated by member mm289, and shows the component parts, common wear points and how to restore a five gear change assembly to original state. Clearly broken or severely damaged metal parts may need welding or fabricating etc but usually the wear is in the nylon parts which are readily available. Other items could be made up from scrap where prudent to do so. Some previously obsolete parts are becoming available too as owners begin to start fabricating their own in small batches. This trend, encouragingly, is likely to continue with the T25 already having reached cult status - hoorah for that.''

''There may be very minor differences between years, and certainly between petrol and diesel versions (as I point out here and there) but the layout is still very similar. Wear points can be worse in some areas than others and but its as well to remember that none of this will put right a worn out gearbox. As a starting point to improve gear changes, this is a positive start though. This two-part article which includes links to the Brickwerks catalogue (if you're not a fabricator), is specifically about the highly-prized 5-speed but much shown here will apply to the 4-speed mechanism too albeit with variations. A 4-speed page can be found at http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_4_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1. You do not need to be a mechanic to do this job but you will need tools.
''
This article was updated in February 2013.

Now its over to mm289....

==The Wear Factor==

The gear lever end looks like this underneath. In my case, there is a lot of movement. Movement in the shaft where it goes through the floor, the fact that stick will actually lift out (see photos) and a lot of gap between the fork bushes and guides. This section alone makes for a badly worn and less-certain gear change and we haven't even got to the rest yet!

Remember that the gear lever is indeed a lever so when you push left from inside the cab, it actually moves right underneath and if you push up, the gear change mechanism moves towards the rear of the vehicle.

[[file:gshift1.jpg]]

Below: At the actual gear lever, component wear here contributes to excessive travel for the gear stick and vague gear changes. Worn aluminium guide blocks, fork ends and other missing or worn parts demonstrate the amount of play that can develop.

[[file:gshift2.jpg]]

Turning to the rear end where the mechanism meets with the side of the gearbox, the selector ball joint can also have noticeable lateral and vertical movement

[[file:gshift3.jpg]]

To give you some idea of the effects of all this wear, we can see just how much movement is created at the gearstick.

First lateral:

[[file:gshift4.jpg]]

And vertical:

[[file:gshift5.jpg]]

==Tentative First Steps==

The first job is to remove the gear knob (unscrews) then lift the cab mat and gear lever gaiter.

''Covkid: On the Caravelle, this is slightly different as some have a section of wide flat plastic trunking which sits on top of the gear lever, designed to push heat from the front to the rear passenger department (at the expense of cold knees in the front in my experience). To remove this trunking section, first remove the plastic cowling just behind the gear lever by pulling it towards you evenly (on the extreme left in photo below). To remove trunking, there are usually four screws/bolts which fasten it to the floor, a line of screws at the rear and you may need to remove a seat belt fastener to get the room needed to lift it out - generally the passenger one.''

[[file:gshift6.jpg]]

Pictured below, the base of the gear lever often exhibits a great deal of wear. Access to the lever fork and guides is gained from underneath once the spare wheel carrier is dropped down:

[[file:gshift7.jpg]]

==Strip Down - Front End==

At this point, you'll need to begin work underneath. Get some gloves on - this will be dirty work until you've cleaned everything. Undo bolts “1”, 13mm, also hold the shift guides (lumps of aluminium at the base of this box) in place so don’t lose them! Next bolts “2”, 4 off 10mm and then remove the carrier. Finally bolts “3” and the housing is free.

'''Covkid:''' ''On my 85 5-speed Petrol Caravelle, only four 10mm nuts (number 3 in diagram) held the housing in place. No additional bracing piece was in evidence either - presumably one of the main differences between diesel and petrol models here. This meant that the housing, complete with ally guide blocks came off as one. Much easier.
''

[[file:gshift8.jpg]]

Finally undo the bolt securing the lever fork to the shift rod and the whole assembly will drop down through the floor.

[[file:gshift9.jpg]]

This is what the linkage looks like complete with odd bits of debris (inset) found

[[file:gshift10.jpg]]

Undo the two bolts (10mm) on the top of the bearing housing and push out the rubber guide. In my case this pretty much fell apart. Also undo the grub screw in the bushing on the gear lever holding the top spring in place.Now the whole assembly will slide off up the gear lever.

Below: Disassembled 'upper' parts from gear lever assembly:

[[file:gshift11.jpg]]

Below: After an initial clean up of lower assembly components

[[file:gshift12.jpg]]

==Examining Front Components==

Now to disassemble the spring and pin that creates the “detent” you push against to get 1st & reverse on a 5 speed (dog leg 1st on these puppies – just like a Ferrari) :wink:

Remove the rubber gaiter (above right) and you will see a spring over the guide pin held in place by a c-clip as shown below (left). Remove the c-clip (it will spring off so be careful not to lose it) and spring.

[[file:gshift13.jpg]]

Now PROCEED CAREFULLY, because the detent is created by a ball bearing under pressure from a spring which pushes against a collar on the pin, if you just shove the pin out the ball bearing will pop out and run away – go on ask me how I know.

[[file:gshift14.jpg]]

Photo on the right shows the aluminium guide blocks. Although obsolete from VW now, member Silverbullet makes new ones! Alternatively you could build up the worn shoulder with ally weld and grind back. Your choice but Silverbullet's are superior quality to originals - see below for comparison. Link: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=85849&hilit=aluminium+blocks

[[file:guideblocksnew.jpg]]

Below: Heres a comparison shot of worn fork ends and one fitted with new ones. New fork ends and new guide blocks not only make gear selection more of an exact science, they help reduce lateral play at the gear stick. A fork end kit is available for approx £27 from https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-repair-kit-t3-14mm-2198.html

'''Covkid:''' ''Its also possible if you're on as very tight budget to replace the broken fork ends with some heavy-duty hose, flattened and slid on to the fork ends (tight fit needed) and secured with a suitable adhesive. I did this on mine and it worked out fine. However, the blocks above probably have far better wear characteristics. Will let you know in ten years.
''

''Another thing you might like to consider is the gaiters used on selector shaft (front to back). Often missing or breaking up, and again, not cheap, I struggled to find a suitable length of this proper concertina type tubing anywhere. However, not a person to give up, in Wilkinsons I bought three black funnels (with flexible concertina spouts) for under £3 each. It was quite simple to cut the flexible part away and use these as gaiters. Do the maths on that one but there was quite a saving.''

[[file:gshift15.jpg]]

==Replacing Front Components==

'''Covkid:''' ''Below - this is what new parts look like. Brickwerks original kit (and at one time available from VW) cost around £50. A full kit can (I think) be obtained for aircooled vans with the 12mm gearstick but the 14mm (later watercoooled) is completely obsolete now. However, Brickwerks have solved this and replaced the original kit with two slightly less comprehensive kits - one for 12mm gear sticks and one for 14mm sticks (use an open-ended spanner to decide which size yours is). Heres the link to the 14mm one but check you have all the parts you'll need:'' https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-repair-kit-t3-14mm-2198.html

''As Brickwerks rightfully point out, the 12mm and 14mm gear lever parts are in fact identical with the exception of one half of the plastic ball and this part is included to make the 12mm into a 14mm kit. Other outlets stock ONE kit and say it fits all, but I'm not convinced and inclined to believe Brickwerks on this. They do say it is a compromise. However, I found that this additional part, whilst welcome, needed a little reworking around the edges where it meets the other part of the ball mechanism as it kept catching when installed on mine, despite the grease. It took some figuring out to work out why this was happening but smoothing the edges of the replacement part with a little sandpaper soon sorted the problem. In any event its a cheaper kit than the one previously stocked and to be honest, some of the parts in the original larger kit may not have been needed anyway.''

''For reference, if you look below, the new kit now includes everything from left to right up to and including the base plate but the spring and grubscrew collar on the right is not in the kit. Chances are, yours will be fine anyway.''

[[file:gshift16.jpg]]

Now assemble the new bearing (plastic ball joint). The two plastic shells are pushed into the rubber guide (looks like a big cog!). The lower ball half is then pushed into the shells, the spring fitted and the upper ball half pushed in as well. Lots of moly grease applied and the assembled bearing looks like this (below left). The next stage is to press the whole thing into the new housing supplied in kit (below right).

If you have the new kit, its probably pre-assembled. If you ordered the 14mm one, you'll need to press out the whole assembly from the base plate (push down around the edges and eventually it'll come out) and replace the 12mm part for the 14mm one. You need strong hands for this.

[[file:gshift17.jpg]]

At this stage, theoretically, you could slide the bearing and housing onto the gear lever, put the final spring on and then lock in place with the bushing and grub screw (which screws into a recess on the gear lever so can only go in one place.)
If you did this your assembled unit would look like this. HOWEVER....

[[file:gshift18.jpg]]

...I can’t now fit it into the shift mechanism housing! You need to put the gear lever through the housing '''first''' and then put on the bearing housing etc.

'''Covkid:''' ''On the 5 speed 85 petrol (and some other years) you CAN put the whole assembly through as one. It differs as shown below:
''

Now moving to the end of the gear lever and the guide pin and spring. This was cleaned and re-assembled. The only tricky bit is depressing the spring and ball bearing whilst you push in the pin – not too difficult really though.

'''Covkid:''' ''The original '251 711 248 A' boot was split and when this article was penned, could still be purchased via Brickwerks from around £14. It is completely obsolete at VW. You'll need to check on stock.

''Its not cheap at all considering what it is, but presumably small production runs or limited availability sometimes inflate what are relatively simple bits of plastic on vehicles. That said, it is difficult to see what else could be used until recently I had cause to replace one and had to think quickly on my feet. On a visit to Wilkinsons I came across a black flexible funnel for topping up oil where the concertina part was virtually identical in width and only £2.99. A minor mod to seal one end (work it out yourself) and I was good to go. The same funnel also doubled up as protective sleeves for bushes along the shift rod. Whatever you use in this area, remember that grease/solvents can affect some materials, as can wear.''

On the other end of the guide pin assembly is a plastic cap (inset below) that stops dirt entering the bushing and also acts as a buffer to protect the end of the assembly hitting the housing when rocking the gear lever from left to right in neutral. (if you move the stick from left to right as you would when checking you are in neutral and get a metallic clunk, then likely this cap is broken/missing like it was on mine).

For the moment I have improvised a cover to stop dirt getting in (couple of fingers from used gloves, but will have to make something more robust if can’t find the right part!

VW still have this part, as do Brickwerks just under a fiver) - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1079&category_id=99 or you may even find something suitable around the home to replace it with.

[[file:gshift19.jpg]]

And then the whole unit assembled:

[[file:gshift20.jpg]]

Next to replace the 2 'top hat' bushes in the end of the shift rod. NOTE: these are no longer included in the overhaul kit but available separately. Old bushes can just be prised out with a sharp screwdriver and then replaced. These bushes allow for some degree of movement between fork end and shift rod that goes to the rear. They're under £4 for the pair: http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1439&category_id=99

[[file:gshift21.jpg]]

Inset below: This is the reverse gear lock, it bolts to the inside of the mechanism housing and stops you shifting straight into reverse.

When you go for reverse the left movement pushes against the guide pin/spring and then you press the gear lever down, which pushes the square lug on the back of the shift lever underneath the reverse gear lock. Hence reverse can only be selected with a left AND down movement.

Before moving onto replacing the bushes in the rest of the shift mechanism I wanted to see what difference just overhauling the bearing and shift mechanism had made, so reassembled the housing. Lateral movement at gear stick now reduced from 8" to 6.5" and vertical, a reduction of 1/2" although I've yet to tackle play along rest of change rod.

[[file:gshift22.jpg]]

Now on to [Part 2]http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt2

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1

2015-10-27T09:23:47Z

Ghost123uk: /* Examining Front Components */

==Introduction==

Intro by Covkid:

''After 20 odd years and probably millions of gear changes, the gear change assembly simply wears out - as indeed do some parts of the gearbox eventually. Even with a good box, it can reach a point where some gears are very difficult to get into indeed and the whole thing starts to feel like you're driving the earlier bay window with the gear stick like a wooden spoon in a mixing bowl. Combined wear in gear change components adds up to magnified problems at the gear stick and this could well be why so many gears sticks snap - from frustration.''

Note: Its worth considering before we move on, that a tired/worn or even leaky clutch slave cylinder will also cause very difficult gear changing so examine that first.

''Whilst all the new parts combined are certainly not cheap, you may only need some of them. Replacing broken or worn parts can certainly transform the whole gear change train (it goes front to back remember). Most are available via Brickwerks and a few other outlets. If you're reading this you have probably already reached a point of no return anyway and now, thoroughly demoralised, need to sort the assembly out for good.''

''This detailed two-part article was penned and illustrated by member mm289, and shows the component parts, common wear points and how to restore a five gear change assembly to original state. Clearly broken or severely damaged metal parts may need welding or fabricating etc but usually the wear is in the nylon parts which are readily available. Other items could be made up from scrap where prudent to do so. Some previously obsolete parts are becoming available too as owners begin to start fabricating their own in small batches. This trend, encouragingly, is likely to continue with the T25 already having reached cult status - hoorah for that.''

''There may be very minor differences between years, and certainly between petrol and diesel versions (as I point out here and there) but the layout is still very similar. Wear points can be worse in some areas than others and but its as well to remember that none of this will put right a worn out gearbox. As a starting point to improve gear changes, this is a positive start though. This two-part article which includes links to the Brickwerks catalogue (if you're not a fabricator), is specifically about the highly-prized 5-speed but much shown here will apply to the 4-speed mechanism too albeit with variations. A 4-speed page can be found at http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_4_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1. You do not need to be a mechanic to do this job but you will need tools.
''
This article was updated in February 2013.

Now its over to mm289....

==The Wear Factor==

The gear lever end looks like this underneath. In my case, there is a lot of movement. Movement in the shaft where it goes through the floor, the fact that stick will actually lift out (see photos) and a lot of gap between the fork bushes and guides. This section alone makes for a badly worn and less-certain gear change and we haven't even got to the rest yet!

Remember that the gear lever is indeed a lever so when you push left from inside the cab, it actually moves right underneath and if you push up, the gear change mechanism moves towards the rear of the vehicle.

[[file:gshift1.jpg]]

Below: At the actual gear lever, component wear here contributes to excessive travel for the gear stick and vague gear changes. Worn aluminium guide blocks, fork ends and other missing or worn parts demonstrate the amount of play that can develop.

[[file:gshift2.jpg]]

Turning to the rear end where the mechanism meets with the side of the gearbox, the selector ball joint can also have noticeable lateral and vertical movement

[[file:gshift3.jpg]]

To give you some idea of the effects of all this wear, we can see just how much movement is created at the gearstick.

First lateral:

[[file:gshift4.jpg]]

And vertical:

[[file:gshift5.jpg]]

==Tentative First Steps==

The first job is to remove the gear knob (unscrews) then lift the cab mat and gear lever gaiter.

''Covkid: On the Caravelle, this is slightly different as some have a section of wide flat plastic trunking which sits on top of the gear lever, designed to push heat from the front to the rear passenger department (at the expense of cold knees in the front in my experience). To remove this trunking section, first remove the plastic cowling just behind the gear lever by pulling it towards you evenly (on the extreme left in photo below). To remove trunking, there are usually four screws/bolts which fasten it to the floor, a line of screws at the rear and you may need to remove a seat belt fastener to get the room needed to lift it out - generally the passenger one.''

[[file:gshift6.jpg]]

Pictured below, the base of the gear lever often exhibits a great deal of wear. Access to the lever fork and guides is gained from underneath once the spare wheel carrier is dropped down:

[[file:gshift7.jpg]]

==Strip Down - Front End==

At this point, you'll need to begin work underneath. Get some gloves on - this will be dirty work until you've cleaned everything. Undo bolts “1”, 13mm, also hold the shift guides (lumps of aluminium at the base of this box) in place so don’t lose them! Next bolts “2”, 4 off 10mm and then remove the carrier. Finally bolts “3” and the housing is free.

'''Covkid:''' ''On my 85 5-speed Petrol Caravelle, only four 10mm nuts (number 3 in diagram) held the housing in place. No additional bracing piece was in evidence either - presumably one of the main differences between diesel and petrol models here. This meant that the housing, complete with ally guide blocks came off as one. Much easier.
''

[[file:gshift8.jpg]]

Finally undo the bolt securing the lever fork to the shift rod and the whole assembly will drop down through the floor.

[[file:gshift9.jpg]]

This is what the linkage looks like complete with odd bits of debris (inset) found

[[file:gshift10.jpg]]

Undo the two bolts (10mm) on the top of the bearing housing and push out the rubber guide. In my case this pretty much fell apart. Also undo the grub screw in the bushing on the gear lever holding the top spring in place.Now the whole assembly will slide off up the gear lever.

Below: Disassembled 'upper' parts from gear lever assembly:

[[file:gshift11.jpg]]

Below: After an initial clean up of lower assembly components

[[file:gshift12.jpg]]

==Examining Front Components==

Now to disassemble the spring and pin that creates the “detent” you push against to get 1st & reverse on a 5 speed (dog leg 1st on these puppies – just like a Ferrari) :wink:

Remove the rubber gaiter (above right) and you will see a spring over the guide pin held in place by a c-clip as shown below (left). Remove the c-clip (it will spring off so be careful not to lose it) and spring.

[[file:gshift13.jpg]]

Now PROCEED CAREFULLY, because the detent is created by a ball bearing under pressure from a spring which pushes against a collar on the pin, if you just shove the pin out the ball bearing will pop out and run away – go on ask me how I know.

[[file:gshift14.jpg]]

Photo on the right shows the aluminium guide blocks. Although obsolete from VW now, member Silverbullet makes new ones! Alternatively you could build up the worn shoulder with ally weld and grind back. Your choice but Silverbullet's are superior quality to originals - see below for comparison. Link: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=85849&hilit=aluminium+blocks

[[file:guideblocksnew.jpg]]

Below: Heres a comparison shot of worn fork ends and one fitted with new ones. New fork ends and new guide blocks not only make gear selection more of an exact science, they help reduce lateral play at the gear stick. A fork end kit is available for approx £27 from https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t3-parts/t3-drivetrain/gearbox-transaxle/t3-manual/gear-lever-repair-kit-t3-14mm-2198.html

'''Covkid:''' ''Its also possible if you're on as very tight budget to replace the broken fork ends with some heavy-duty hose, flattened and slid on to the fork ends (tight fit needed) and secured with a suitable adhesive. I did this on mine and it worked out fine. However, the blocks above probably have far better wear characteristics. Will let you know in ten years.
''

''Another thing you might like to consider is the gaiters used on selector shaft (front to back). Often missing or breaking up, and again, not cheap, I struggled to find a suitable length of this proper concertina type tubing anywhere. However, not a person to give up, in Wilkinsons I bought three black funnels (with flexible concertina spouts) for under £3 each. It was quite simple to cut the flexible part away and use these as gaiters. Do the maths on that one but there was quite a saving.''

[[file:gshift15.jpg]]

==Replacing Front Components==

'''Covkid:''' ''Below - this is what new parts look like. Brickwerks original kit (and at one time available from VW) cost around £50. A full kit can (I think) be obtained for aircooled vans with the 12mm gearstick but the 14mm (later watercoooled) is completely obsolete now. However, Brickwerks have solved this and replaced the original kit with two slightly less comprehensive kits - one for 12mm gear sticks and one for 14mm sticks (use an open-ended spanner to decide which size yours is). Heres the link to the 14mm one but check you have all the parts you'll need:'' http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1641&category_id=99

''As Brickwerks rightfully point out, the 12mm and 14mm gear lever parts are in fact identical with the exception of one half of the plastic ball and this part is included to make the 12mm into a 14mm kit. Other outlets stock ONE kit and say it fits all, but I'm not convinced and inclined to believe Brickwerks on this. They do say it is a compromise. However, I found that this additional part, whilst welcome, needed a little reworking around the edges where it meets the other part of the ball mechanism as it kept catching when installed on mine, despite the grease. It took some figuring out to work out why this was happening but smoothing the edges of the replacement part with a little sandpaper soon sorted the problem. In any event its a cheaper kit than the one previously stocked and to be honest, some of the parts in the original larger kit may not have been needed anyway.''

''For reference, if you look below, the new kit now includes everything from left to right up to and including the base plate but the spring and grubscrew collar on the right is not in the kit. Chances are, yours will be fine anyway.''

[[file:gshift16.jpg]]

Now assemble the new bearing (plastic ball joint). The two plastic shells are pushed into the rubber guide (looks like a big cog!). The lower ball half is then pushed into the shells, the spring fitted and the upper ball half pushed in as well. Lots of moly grease applied and the assembled bearing looks like this (below left). The next stage is to press the whole thing into the new housing supplied in kit (below right).

If you have the new kit, its probably pre-assembled. If you ordered the 14mm one, you'll need to press out the whole assembly from the base plate (push down around the edges and eventually it'll come out) and replace the 12mm part for the 14mm one. You need strong hands for this.

[[file:gshift17.jpg]]

At this stage, theoretically, you could slide the bearing and housing onto the gear lever, put the final spring on and then lock in place with the bushing and grub screw (which screws into a recess on the gear lever so can only go in one place.)
If you did this your assembled unit would look like this. HOWEVER....

[[file:gshift18.jpg]]

...I can’t now fit it into the shift mechanism housing! You need to put the gear lever through the housing '''first''' and then put on the bearing housing etc.

'''Covkid:''' ''On the 5 speed 85 petrol (and some other years) you CAN put the whole assembly through as one. It differs as shown below:
''

Now moving to the end of the gear lever and the guide pin and spring. This was cleaned and re-assembled. The only tricky bit is depressing the spring and ball bearing whilst you push in the pin – not too difficult really though.

'''Covkid:''' ''The original '251 711 248 A' boot was split and when this article was penned, could still be purchased via Brickwerks from around £14. It is completely obsolete at VW. You'll need to check on stock.

''Its not cheap at all considering what it is, but presumably small production runs or limited availability sometimes inflate what are relatively simple bits of plastic on vehicles. That said, it is difficult to see what else could be used until recently I had cause to replace one and had to think quickly on my feet. On a visit to Wilkinsons I came across a black flexible funnel for topping up oil where the concertina part was virtually identical in width and only £2.99. A minor mod to seal one end (work it out yourself) and I was good to go. The same funnel also doubled up as protective sleeves for bushes along the shift rod. Whatever you use in this area, remember that grease/solvents can affect some materials, as can wear.''

On the other end of the guide pin assembly is a plastic cap (inset below) that stops dirt entering the bushing and also acts as a buffer to protect the end of the assembly hitting the housing when rocking the gear lever from left to right in neutral. (if you move the stick from left to right as you would when checking you are in neutral and get a metallic clunk, then likely this cap is broken/missing like it was on mine).

For the moment I have improvised a cover to stop dirt getting in (couple of fingers from used gloves, but will have to make something more robust if can’t find the right part!

VW still have this part, as do Brickwerks just under a fiver) - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1079&category_id=99 or you may even find something suitable around the home to replace it with.

[[file:gshift19.jpg]]

And then the whole unit assembled:

[[file:gshift20.jpg]]

Next to replace the 2 'top hat' bushes in the end of the shift rod. NOTE: these are no longer included in the overhaul kit but available separately. Old bushes can just be prised out with a sharp screwdriver and then replaced. These bushes allow for some degree of movement between fork end and shift rod that goes to the rear. They're under £4 for the pair: http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1439&category_id=99

[[file:gshift21.jpg]]

Inset below: This is the reverse gear lock, it bolts to the inside of the mechanism housing and stops you shifting straight into reverse.

When you go for reverse the left movement pushes against the guide pin/spring and then you press the gear lever down, which pushes the square lug on the back of the shift lever underneath the reverse gear lock. Hence reverse can only be selected with a left AND down movement.

Before moving onto replacing the bushes in the rest of the shift mechanism I wanted to see what difference just overhauling the bearing and shift mechanism had made, so reassembled the housing. Lateral movement at gear stick now reduced from 8" to 6.5" and vertical, a reduction of 1/2" although I've yet to tackle play along rest of change rod.

[[file:gshift22.jpg]]

Now on to [Part 2]http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt2

Garages T25 Specific

2015-10-21T08:42:17Z

Ghost123uk: /* Surrey & Sussex */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Nigel Uttley - The Air Cooled Workshop''' - 5 Oak Business Park, Bexhill Road, Bexhill, tel 07817 478059

80-90 member '''triumph2.5pi''' says = After having moved to East Sussex 18 months ago, I've finally found a VW specialist I trust to work on my Autosleeper. Despite the business name they do work on T25's. Owner Nigel is knowledgeable, friendly and the rates are very reasonable. Highly recommended if anyone else ever needs a garage in the area.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T09:10:01Z

Ghost123uk: /* */

'''California Dreamin'''

'''Under seat VW T25 battery box dimensions:'''
'''310 wide x 175 deep''' (front to back)''' x 185 high'''. Battery box with lid (to enable lid to close)
These are absolute maximum dimensions, a shade less would be better - I have measured to the bottom of a swivel seat on a camper.
'''Just be aware that VW battery box lids won't shut properly with the '''common''' 190mm battery height'''..'''You must buy''' a slightly lower profile''' 175mm battery'''. THIS POINT IS VERY IMPORTANT* (Common standard car battery height is 190mm but you will need one that is 175mm high often refered to as 'low prophile')

Original VW fitment was a Type 075 for petrol engined vehicles (battery under the O/S/F seat and around 60AH) and Type 096 for Diesel engines (battery in the engine bay, these are around the 70-74AH region) However, the more open battery tray area on Diesel engines allows for a much wider choice and it is the restricted size of the VW battery boxes under the front seats that limit choice for petrol van owners.

Therefore, if petrol van owners are looking for a little more..umph! a '''UK Type 100''' is a sensible upgrade without breaking the bank, these are (usually low profile at 175mm high) at the same time have increased capacity (typically 68 - 74ah with 'cold cranking capacity' in the region of 630 - 700 CCA) whilst still retaining the correct terminal orientation. These have greater cranking capacity over the standard size and will easily power all engine derivatives..Diesel & petrol, with lots in reserve. This size leaves about 15mm space either size so is pretty close to filling the box entirely. Word of caution at this point* some manufactures use battery lables that put Type 096 & 100 together i.e. 096/100 .. Just be absolutely sure in these circumstances that you are buying a low profile battery that is 175mm tall*

As a footnote* If you want the ABSOLUTE highest capacity starter battery 'that fits' lid shut! then you can use a Type 110. These are rated around the 80ah with a CCA upwards of 700 'very powerful' and literally 'squeeze' into a VW battery box...squeeze in not an understatement! but several of us have fitted a Type 110 with success. I used an EXIDE brand Type 110 that measured W315 X H175 X D175 but I know others also fit..JUST! I actually measured mine at 310mm across the top but 315mm at the base where the retaining ridges stick out for the fasten down bracket.
Note* the recommendations above are mainly starter battery specific. Starter batteries can give good service used as a leisure, as long as they are not too heavily discharged and are recharged straight away. However, a true deep cycle leisure battery has increased resilience and more likely to recover from a regular discharged state. However, this '''does not''' make them immune as they can and will be damaged by this kind of abuse, so heavily discharging leisure batteries of any type should be avoided if possible. Personally, I have had good service from starter batteries used as a leisure, however, I am quite particular about keeping them charged and have a 100watt Solar panel for this purpose. The choice of course is yours.

Note* As these batteries are effectively 'inside' the cab area you might occasionally catch a wiff of hydrogen gas when being charged (usually on hookup with a spit charge setup). To elliminate this you can vent the gas through the base of the battery box using a battery vent kit (basically some washer pipe and a small plastic elbow that fits in one end of the battery vent rail and routes down and out through a grommet in the tray base)

'''Here comes the disclaimer....ALWAYS CHECK AND MEASURE THE SPACE YOU HAVE AND COMPARE THIS TO THE ACTUAL ADVERTISED BATTERY SIZE''' although battery companies use universal sizes, they will vary slightly between brands.

==Leisure batteries and suppliers==
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/skins/common/images/button_bold.png
This guy deals in all sorts of batteries and is well aware of the T25 height restriction. I had my doubts whether it was a 'real' leisure battery as the one I got had no stickers or marking identifying it as such, however it has been in the van a few years and has been fine. The guy has sold quite a few to T25 owners and is well aware of the dimension restrictions.

[http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THE-BATTERY-MANs-SHOP__W0QQ_armrsZ1 The battery mans shop]

'''Note this is the same as Alpha batteries listed below, this is the ebay outlet'''

These are slightly high but you may get away with it depending on your set up. It would be a good idea to cover the positive with a rubber boot protective cover to prevent a short and potential fire risk.

12V 90AH LOW HEIGHT LEISURE BATTERY. CARAVAN/MOTORHOME

317mm x 175mm x 190mm

Weight: 20kg

'''ALPHA BATTERIES''' do advertise a 100ah Leisure battery specifically for the VW T25 battery box '''(low profile 175mm tall)'''. Just type into a 'Google search' ''''T25 low profile leisure battery'''' and you will either be directed to an ebay link or their online store. '''NOTE*''' just be aware that although advertised as a 100ah it is actually rated at 90ah due to how they measure the discharge rate (on a 100 hour cycle and not 20 hours as with most) So bare in mind that its a 90AH... so still pretty damn good, cost was around £85 april 2015 on ebay, £90 on their site.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leisure battery to fit under the seat in a T25? Haven't got the whole post, but these looked like the best candidates:

[http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ available from Furneaux Riddall]

VA/W096 - Solent 
£32.24 63Ah 2year 280 175 175

065TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

096TE - Exide Ultra 
£57.84 70Ah 4year 280 175 175

097TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

090VSE - Exide classic 
£47.79 60Ah 3year 242 175 175

095SE - Exide classic 
£46.64 63Ah 3year 278 175 175

096SE - Exide classic 
£42.77 63Ah 3year 280 175 175

100VSE - Exide classic 
£59.20 70Ah 3year 280 175 175

'''N.B.''' They are not strictly leisure batteries, but high capacity batteries that should hopefully be able to stand a bit of deep cycling. PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found several Numax 60Ah batteries that fit priced £38.60 plus vat (£45.59 delivered)

[http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/219/6/Car-Battery-by-Brand-Numax-Car-Batteries-page6.html/ Numax from Tayna Electrical Supplies (6 batteries on page 6)]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Save on silly postage costs by using your local Manbat branch. They stock all the Numax batteries listed on Tayna and are most likely cheaper. (Although they recently told me on enquiry that they now only stock sealed maintenance free Numax- I'd much prefer open cells)

[http://www.manbat.co.uk/distributors// Find your local Manbat distributer]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'''''Actual Leisure Batteries'''''

Some Varta and Delphi batteries are the right size. Though they range from around £60 - £90

[http://www.barden-uk.com/ barden uk marine leisure batteries]

----
elecsol 100Amp hour look like it may fit seen on this Ebay shop [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Motoroam] or [http://www.motoroam.co.uk/]

[[Image:Elecsol-leisure-battery.jpg]]

An Elecsol 100 amp hour battery will fit in the box under your seat but a westy battery flap will not close and a seat without a swivel mech will foul the battery when slid back.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/buy-online/caravan-batteries-boat-batteries-leisure-batteries/12v-ultra-plus-80amp-cheap-leisure-battery/prod_31.html Alpha batteries (12v ultra plus 80 Amp)]

12V Ultra Plus 80Amp Cheap Leisure Battery
Product Code: '''12V25''' (no longer applies as of 2012) phone them with the vehicle type they are well aeware of the space restriction. '''Hacksawbob''' Just on a side note I have been running a battery off these guys in my van as a leisure for about 8 years now without issues.

Offering both quality and value for money the Ultra Plus Leisure Battery is built for year round performance. 
Maintenance free and with a three year warranty. 
Great for Caravans, Motorhomes, Camping, Electric fences and back up power 

Specifications: 
12 V; 80AH; 600cca; Deep Cycle Technology

Dimensions: 
285mm Long; 175mm Wide; 175mm Height

Price (as of May 2010) £59.99 (includes free next-day delivery & 3-year warranty from Rochdale supplier)

'''Note this is the same supplier as "the battery man" on ebay and mentioned above.'''

== ==

'''From ghost123uk = Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge '''

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 there is a link to some here]

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T09:08:43Z

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge */

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T09:07:47Z

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge */

'''California Dreamin'''

'''Under seat VW T25 battery box dimensions:'''
'''310 wide x 175 deep''' (front to back)''' x 185 high'''. Battery box with lid (to enable lid to close)
These are absolute maximum dimensions, a shade less would be better - I have measured to the bottom of a swivel seat on a camper.
'''Just be aware that VW battery box lids won't shut properly with the '''common''' 190mm battery height'''..'''You must buy''' a slightly lower profile''' 175mm battery'''. THIS POINT IS VERY IMPORTANT* (Common standard car battery height is 190mm but you will need one that is 175mm high often refered to as 'low prophile')

Original VW fitment was a Type 075 for petrol engined vehicles (battery under the O/S/F seat and around 60AH) and Type 096 for Diesel engines (battery in the engine bay, these are around the 70-74AH region) However, the more open battery tray area on Diesel engines allows for a much wider choice and it is the restricted size of the VW battery boxes under the front seats that limit choice for petrol van owners.

Therefore, if petrol van owners are looking for a little more..umph! a '''UK Type 100''' is a sensible upgrade without breaking the bank, these are (usually low profile at 175mm high) at the same time have increased capacity (typically 68 - 74ah with 'cold cranking capacity' in the region of 630 - 700 CCA) whilst still retaining the correct terminal orientation. These have greater cranking capacity over the standard size and will easily power all engine derivatives..Diesel & petrol, with lots in reserve. This size leaves about 15mm space either size so is pretty close to filling the box entirely. Word of caution at this point* some manufactures use battery lables that put Type 096 & 100 together i.e. 096/100 .. Just be absolutely sure in these circumstances that you are buying a low profile battery that is 175mm tall*

As a footnote* If you want the ABSOLUTE highest capacity starter battery 'that fits' lid shut! then you can use a Type 110. These are rated around the 80ah with a CCA upwards of 700 'very powerful' and literally 'squeeze' into a VW battery box...squeeze in not an understatement! but several of us have fitted a Type 110 with success. I used an EXIDE brand Type 110 that measured W315 X H175 X D175 but I know others also fit..JUST! I actually measured mine at 310mm across the top but 315mm at the base where the retaining ridges stick out for the fasten down bracket.
Note* the recommendations above are mainly starter battery specific. Starter batteries can give good service used as a leisure, as long as they are not too heavily discharged and are recharged straight away. However, a true deep cycle leisure battery has increased resilience and more likely to recover from a regular discharged state. However, this '''does not''' make them immune as they can and will be damaged by this kind of abuse, so heavily discharging leisure batteries of any type should be avoided if possible. Personally, I have had good service from starter batteries used as a leisure, however, I am quite particular about keeping them charged and have a 100watt Solar panel for this purpose. The choice of course is yours.

Note* As these batteries are effectively 'inside' the cab area you might occasionally catch a wiff of hydrogen gas when being charged (usually on hookup with a spit charge setup). To elliminate this you can vent the gas through the base of the battery box using a battery vent kit (basically some washer pipe and a small plastic elbow that fits in one end of the battery vent rail and routes down and out through a grommet in the tray base)

'''Here comes the disclaimer....ALWAYS CHECK AND MEASURE THE SPACE YOU HAVE AND COMPARE THIS TO THE ACTUAL ADVERTISED BATTERY SIZE''' although battery companies use universal sizes, they will vary slightly between brands.

==Leisure batteries and suppliers==
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/skins/common/images/button_bold.png
This guy deals in all sorts of batteries and is well aware of the T25 height restriction. I had my doubts whether it was a 'real' leisure battery as the one I got had no stickers or marking identifying it as such, however it has been in the van a few years and has been fine. The guy has sold quite a few to T25 owners and is well aware of the dimension restrictions.

[http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THE-BATTERY-MANs-SHOP__W0QQ_armrsZ1 The battery mans shop]

'''Note this is the same as Alpha batteries listed below, this is the ebay outlet'''

These are slightly high but you may get away with it depending on your set up. It would be a good idea to cover the positive with a rubber boot protective cover to prevent a short and potential fire risk.

12V 90AH LOW HEIGHT LEISURE BATTERY. CARAVAN/MOTORHOME

317mm x 175mm x 190mm

Weight: 20kg

'''ALPHA BATTERIES''' do advertise a 100ah Leisure battery specifically for the VW T25 battery box '''(low profile 175mm tall)'''. Just type into a 'Google search' ''''T25 low profile leisure battery'''' and you will either be directed to an ebay link or their online store. '''NOTE*''' just be aware that although advertised as a 100ah it is actually rated at 90ah due to how they measure the discharge rate (on a 100 hour cycle and not 20 hours as with most) So bare in mind that its a 90AH... so still pretty damn good, cost was around £85 april 2015 on ebay, £90 on their site.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leisure battery to fit under the seat in a T25? Haven't got the whole post, but these looked like the best candidates:

[http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ available from Furneaux Riddall]

VA/W096 - Solent 
£32.24 63Ah 2year 280 175 175

065TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

096TE - Exide Ultra 
£57.84 70Ah 4year 280 175 175

097TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

090VSE - Exide classic 
£47.79 60Ah 3year 242 175 175

095SE - Exide classic 
£46.64 63Ah 3year 278 175 175

096SE - Exide classic 
£42.77 63Ah 3year 280 175 175

100VSE - Exide classic 
£59.20 70Ah 3year 280 175 175

'''N.B.''' They are not strictly leisure batteries, but high capacity batteries that should hopefully be able to stand a bit of deep cycling. PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found several Numax 60Ah batteries that fit priced £38.60 plus vat (£45.59 delivered)

[http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/219/6/Car-Battery-by-Brand-Numax-Car-Batteries-page6.html/ Numax from Tayna Electrical Supplies (6 batteries on page 6)]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Save on silly postage costs by using your local Manbat branch. They stock all the Numax batteries listed on Tayna and are most likely cheaper. (Although they recently told me on enquiry that they now only stock sealed maintenance free Numax- I'd much prefer open cells)

[http://www.manbat.co.uk/distributors// Find your local Manbat distributer]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'''''Actual Leisure Batteries'''''

Some Varta and Delphi batteries are the right size. Though they range from around £60 - £90

[http://www.barden-uk.com/ barden uk marine leisure batteries]

----
elecsol 100Amp hour look like it may fit seen on this Ebay shop [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Motoroam] or [http://www.motoroam.co.uk/]

[[Image:Elecsol-leisure-battery.jpg]]

An Elecsol 100 amp hour battery will fit in the box under your seat but a westy battery flap will not close and a seat without a swivel mech will foul the battery when slid back.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/buy-online/caravan-batteries-boat-batteries-leisure-batteries/12v-ultra-plus-80amp-cheap-leisure-battery/prod_31.html Alpha batteries (12v ultra plus 80 Amp)]

12V Ultra Plus 80Amp Cheap Leisure Battery
Product Code: '''12V25''' (no longer applies as of 2012) phone them with the vehicle type they are well aeware of the space restriction. '''Hacksawbob''' Just on a side note I have been running a battery off these guys in my van as a leisure for about 8 years now without issues.

Offering both quality and value for money the Ultra Plus Leisure Battery is built for year round performance. 
Maintenance free and with a three year warranty. 
Great for Caravans, Motorhomes, Camping, Electric fences and back up power 

Specifications: 
12 V; 80AH; 600cca; Deep Cycle Technology

Dimensions: 
285mm Long; 175mm Wide; 175mm Height

Price (as of May 2010) £59.99 (includes free next-day delivery & 3-year warranty from Rochdale supplier)

'''Note this is the same supplier as "the battery man" on ebay and mentioned above.'''

== Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge ==

'''From ghost123uk'''

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 like these in this link]

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T09:06:48Z

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge */

'''California Dreamin'''

'''Under seat VW T25 battery box dimensions:'''
'''310 wide x 175 deep''' (front to back)''' x 185 high'''. Battery box with lid (to enable lid to close)
These are absolute maximum dimensions, a shade less would be better - I have measured to the bottom of a swivel seat on a camper.
'''Just be aware that VW battery box lids won't shut properly with the '''common''' 190mm battery height'''..'''You must buy''' a slightly lower profile''' 175mm battery'''. THIS POINT IS VERY IMPORTANT* (Common standard car battery height is 190mm but you will need one that is 175mm high often refered to as 'low prophile')

Original VW fitment was a Type 075 for petrol engined vehicles (battery under the O/S/F seat and around 60AH) and Type 096 for Diesel engines (battery in the engine bay, these are around the 70-74AH region) However, the more open battery tray area on Diesel engines allows for a much wider choice and it is the restricted size of the VW battery boxes under the front seats that limit choice for petrol van owners.

Therefore, if petrol van owners are looking for a little more..umph! a '''UK Type 100''' is a sensible upgrade without breaking the bank, these are (usually low profile at 175mm high) at the same time have increased capacity (typically 68 - 74ah with 'cold cranking capacity' in the region of 630 - 700 CCA) whilst still retaining the correct terminal orientation. These have greater cranking capacity over the standard size and will easily power all engine derivatives..Diesel & petrol, with lots in reserve. This size leaves about 15mm space either size so is pretty close to filling the box entirely. Word of caution at this point* some manufactures use battery lables that put Type 096 & 100 together i.e. 096/100 .. Just be absolutely sure in these circumstances that you are buying a low profile battery that is 175mm tall*

As a footnote* If you want the ABSOLUTE highest capacity starter battery 'that fits' lid shut! then you can use a Type 110. These are rated around the 80ah with a CCA upwards of 700 'very powerful' and literally 'squeeze' into a VW battery box...squeeze in not an understatement! but several of us have fitted a Type 110 with success. I used an EXIDE brand Type 110 that measured W315 X H175 X D175 but I know others also fit..JUST! I actually measured mine at 310mm across the top but 315mm at the base where the retaining ridges stick out for the fasten down bracket.
Note* the recommendations above are mainly starter battery specific. Starter batteries can give good service used as a leisure, as long as they are not too heavily discharged and are recharged straight away. However, a true deep cycle leisure battery has increased resilience and more likely to recover from a regular discharged state. However, this '''does not''' make them immune as they can and will be damaged by this kind of abuse, so heavily discharging leisure batteries of any type should be avoided if possible. Personally, I have had good service from starter batteries used as a leisure, however, I am quite particular about keeping them charged and have a 100watt Solar panel for this purpose. The choice of course is yours.

Note* As these batteries are effectively 'inside' the cab area you might occasionally catch a wiff of hydrogen gas when being charged (usually on hookup with a spit charge setup). To elliminate this you can vent the gas through the base of the battery box using a battery vent kit (basically some washer pipe and a small plastic elbow that fits in one end of the battery vent rail and routes down and out through a grommet in the tray base)

'''Here comes the disclaimer....ALWAYS CHECK AND MEASURE THE SPACE YOU HAVE AND COMPARE THIS TO THE ACTUAL ADVERTISED BATTERY SIZE''' although battery companies use universal sizes, they will vary slightly between brands.

==Leisure batteries and suppliers==
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/skins/common/images/button_bold.png
This guy deals in all sorts of batteries and is well aware of the T25 height restriction. I had my doubts whether it was a 'real' leisure battery as the one I got had no stickers or marking identifying it as such, however it has been in the van a few years and has been fine. The guy has sold quite a few to T25 owners and is well aware of the dimension restrictions.

[http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THE-BATTERY-MANs-SHOP__W0QQ_armrsZ1 The battery mans shop]

'''Note this is the same as Alpha batteries listed below, this is the ebay outlet'''

These are slightly high but you may get away with it depending on your set up. It would be a good idea to cover the positive with a rubber boot protective cover to prevent a short and potential fire risk.

12V 90AH LOW HEIGHT LEISURE BATTERY. CARAVAN/MOTORHOME

317mm x 175mm x 190mm

Weight: 20kg

'''ALPHA BATTERIES''' do advertise a 100ah Leisure battery specifically for the VW T25 battery box '''(low profile 175mm tall)'''. Just type into a 'Google search' ''''T25 low profile leisure battery'''' and you will either be directed to an ebay link or their online store. '''NOTE*''' just be aware that although advertised as a 100ah it is actually rated at 90ah due to how they measure the discharge rate (on a 100 hour cycle and not 20 hours as with most) So bare in mind that its a 90AH... so still pretty damn good, cost was around £85 april 2015 on ebay, £90 on their site.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leisure battery to fit under the seat in a T25? Haven't got the whole post, but these looked like the best candidates:

[http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ available from Furneaux Riddall]

VA/W096 - Solent 
£32.24 63Ah 2year 280 175 175

065TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

096TE - Exide Ultra 
£57.84 70Ah 4year 280 175 175

097TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

090VSE - Exide classic 
£47.79 60Ah 3year 242 175 175

095SE - Exide classic 
£46.64 63Ah 3year 278 175 175

096SE - Exide classic 
£42.77 63Ah 3year 280 175 175

100VSE - Exide classic 
£59.20 70Ah 3year 280 175 175

'''N.B.''' They are not strictly leisure batteries, but high capacity batteries that should hopefully be able to stand a bit of deep cycling. PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found several Numax 60Ah batteries that fit priced £38.60 plus vat (£45.59 delivered)

[http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/219/6/Car-Battery-by-Brand-Numax-Car-Batteries-page6.html/ Numax from Tayna Electrical Supplies (6 batteries on page 6)]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Save on silly postage costs by using your local Manbat branch. They stock all the Numax batteries listed on Tayna and are most likely cheaper. (Although they recently told me on enquiry that they now only stock sealed maintenance free Numax- I'd much prefer open cells)

[http://www.manbat.co.uk/distributors// Find your local Manbat distributer]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'''''Actual Leisure Batteries'''''

Some Varta and Delphi batteries are the right size. Though they range from around £60 - £90

[http://www.barden-uk.com/ barden uk marine leisure batteries]

----
elecsol 100Amp hour look like it may fit seen on this Ebay shop [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Motoroam] or [http://www.motoroam.co.uk/]

[[Image:Elecsol-leisure-battery.jpg]]

An Elecsol 100 amp hour battery will fit in the box under your seat but a westy battery flap will not close and a seat without a swivel mech will foul the battery when slid back.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/buy-online/caravan-batteries-boat-batteries-leisure-batteries/12v-ultra-plus-80amp-cheap-leisure-battery/prod_31.html Alpha batteries (12v ultra plus 80 Amp)]

12V Ultra Plus 80Amp Cheap Leisure Battery
Product Code: '''12V25''' (no longer applies as of 2012) phone them with the vehicle type they are well aeware of the space restriction. '''Hacksawbob''' Just on a side note I have been running a battery off these guys in my van as a leisure for about 8 years now without issues.

Offering both quality and value for money the Ultra Plus Leisure Battery is built for year round performance. 
Maintenance free and with a three year warranty. 
Great for Caravans, Motorhomes, Camping, Electric fences and back up power 

Specifications: 
12 V; 80AH; 600cca; Deep Cycle Technology

Dimensions: 
285mm Long; 175mm Wide; 175mm Height

Price (as of May 2010) £59.99 (includes free next-day delivery & 3-year warranty from Rochdale supplier)

'''Note this is the same supplier as "the battery man" on ebay and mentioned above.'''

== Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge ==

'''From ghost123uk'''

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 like these =

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T09:04:54Z

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge */

'''California Dreamin'''

'''Under seat VW T25 battery box dimensions:'''
'''310 wide x 175 deep''' (front to back)''' x 185 high'''. Battery box with lid (to enable lid to close)
These are absolute maximum dimensions, a shade less would be better - I have measured to the bottom of a swivel seat on a camper.
'''Just be aware that VW battery box lids won't shut properly with the '''common''' 190mm battery height'''..'''You must buy''' a slightly lower profile''' 175mm battery'''. THIS POINT IS VERY IMPORTANT* (Common standard car battery height is 190mm but you will need one that is 175mm high often refered to as 'low prophile')

Original VW fitment was a Type 075 for petrol engined vehicles (battery under the O/S/F seat and around 60AH) and Type 096 for Diesel engines (battery in the engine bay, these are around the 70-74AH region) However, the more open battery tray area on Diesel engines allows for a much wider choice and it is the restricted size of the VW battery boxes under the front seats that limit choice for petrol van owners.

Therefore, if petrol van owners are looking for a little more..umph! a '''UK Type 100''' is a sensible upgrade without breaking the bank, these are (usually low profile at 175mm high) at the same time have increased capacity (typically 68 - 74ah with 'cold cranking capacity' in the region of 630 - 700 CCA) whilst still retaining the correct terminal orientation. These have greater cranking capacity over the standard size and will easily power all engine derivatives..Diesel & petrol, with lots in reserve. This size leaves about 15mm space either size so is pretty close to filling the box entirely. Word of caution at this point* some manufactures use battery lables that put Type 096 & 100 together i.e. 096/100 .. Just be absolutely sure in these circumstances that you are buying a low profile battery that is 175mm tall*

As a footnote* If you want the ABSOLUTE highest capacity starter battery 'that fits' lid shut! then you can use a Type 110. These are rated around the 80ah with a CCA upwards of 700 'very powerful' and literally 'squeeze' into a VW battery box...squeeze in not an understatement! but several of us have fitted a Type 110 with success. I used an EXIDE brand Type 110 that measured W315 X H175 X D175 but I know others also fit..JUST! I actually measured mine at 310mm across the top but 315mm at the base where the retaining ridges stick out for the fasten down bracket.
Note* the recommendations above are mainly starter battery specific. Starter batteries can give good service used as a leisure, as long as they are not too heavily discharged and are recharged straight away. However, a true deep cycle leisure battery has increased resilience and more likely to recover from a regular discharged state. However, this '''does not''' make them immune as they can and will be damaged by this kind of abuse, so heavily discharging leisure batteries of any type should be avoided if possible. Personally, I have had good service from starter batteries used as a leisure, however, I am quite particular about keeping them charged and have a 100watt Solar panel for this purpose. The choice of course is yours.

Note* As these batteries are effectively 'inside' the cab area you might occasionally catch a wiff of hydrogen gas when being charged (usually on hookup with a spit charge setup). To elliminate this you can vent the gas through the base of the battery box using a battery vent kit (basically some washer pipe and a small plastic elbow that fits in one end of the battery vent rail and routes down and out through a grommet in the tray base)

'''Here comes the disclaimer....ALWAYS CHECK AND MEASURE THE SPACE YOU HAVE AND COMPARE THIS TO THE ACTUAL ADVERTISED BATTERY SIZE''' although battery companies use universal sizes, they will vary slightly between brands.

==Leisure batteries and suppliers==
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/skins/common/images/button_bold.png
This guy deals in all sorts of batteries and is well aware of the T25 height restriction. I had my doubts whether it was a 'real' leisure battery as the one I got had no stickers or marking identifying it as such, however it has been in the van a few years and has been fine. The guy has sold quite a few to T25 owners and is well aware of the dimension restrictions.

[http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THE-BATTERY-MANs-SHOP__W0QQ_armrsZ1 The battery mans shop]

'''Note this is the same as Alpha batteries listed below, this is the ebay outlet'''

These are slightly high but you may get away with it depending on your set up. It would be a good idea to cover the positive with a rubber boot protective cover to prevent a short and potential fire risk.

12V 90AH LOW HEIGHT LEISURE BATTERY. CARAVAN/MOTORHOME

317mm x 175mm x 190mm

Weight: 20kg

'''ALPHA BATTERIES''' do advertise a 100ah Leisure battery specifically for the VW T25 battery box '''(low profile 175mm tall)'''. Just type into a 'Google search' ''''T25 low profile leisure battery'''' and you will either be directed to an ebay link or their online store. '''NOTE*''' just be aware that although advertised as a 100ah it is actually rated at 90ah due to how they measure the discharge rate (on a 100 hour cycle and not 20 hours as with most) So bare in mind that its a 90AH... so still pretty damn good, cost was around £85 april 2015 on ebay, £90 on their site.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leisure battery to fit under the seat in a T25? Haven't got the whole post, but these looked like the best candidates:

[http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ available from Furneaux Riddall]

VA/W096 - Solent 
£32.24 63Ah 2year 280 175 175

065TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

096TE - Exide Ultra 
£57.84 70Ah 4year 280 175 175

097TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

090VSE - Exide classic 
£47.79 60Ah 3year 242 175 175

095SE - Exide classic 
£46.64 63Ah 3year 278 175 175

096SE - Exide classic 
£42.77 63Ah 3year 280 175 175

100VSE - Exide classic 
£59.20 70Ah 3year 280 175 175

'''N.B.''' They are not strictly leisure batteries, but high capacity batteries that should hopefully be able to stand a bit of deep cycling. PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found several Numax 60Ah batteries that fit priced £38.60 plus vat (£45.59 delivered)

[http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/219/6/Car-Battery-by-Brand-Numax-Car-Batteries-page6.html/ Numax from Tayna Electrical Supplies (6 batteries on page 6)]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Save on silly postage costs by using your local Manbat branch. They stock all the Numax batteries listed on Tayna and are most likely cheaper. (Although they recently told me on enquiry that they now only stock sealed maintenance free Numax- I'd much prefer open cells)

[http://www.manbat.co.uk/distributors// Find your local Manbat distributer]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'''''Actual Leisure Batteries'''''

Some Varta and Delphi batteries are the right size. Though they range from around £60 - £90

[http://www.barden-uk.com/ barden uk marine leisure batteries]

----
elecsol 100Amp hour look like it may fit seen on this Ebay shop [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Motoroam] or [http://www.motoroam.co.uk/]

[[Image:Elecsol-leisure-battery.jpg]]

An Elecsol 100 amp hour battery will fit in the box under your seat but a westy battery flap will not close and a seat without a swivel mech will foul the battery when slid back.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/buy-online/caravan-batteries-boat-batteries-leisure-batteries/12v-ultra-plus-80amp-cheap-leisure-battery/prod_31.html Alpha batteries (12v ultra plus 80 Amp)]

12V Ultra Plus 80Amp Cheap Leisure Battery
Product Code: '''12V25''' (no longer applies as of 2012) phone them with the vehicle type they are well aeware of the space restriction. '''Hacksawbob''' Just on a side note I have been running a battery off these guys in my van as a leisure for about 8 years now without issues.

Offering both quality and value for money the Ultra Plus Leisure Battery is built for year round performance. 
Maintenance free and with a three year warranty. 
Great for Caravans, Motorhomes, Camping, Electric fences and back up power 

Specifications: 
12 V; 80AH; 600cca; Deep Cycle Technology

Dimensions: 
285mm Long; 175mm Wide; 175mm Height

Price (as of May 2010) £59.99 (includes free next-day delivery & 3-year warranty from Rochdale supplier)

'''Note this is the same supplier as "the battery man" on ebay and mentioned above.'''

== Protect your new leisure battery from deep discharge ==

'''From ghost123uk'''

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, like these = http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit

2015-09-19T08:58:27Z

Ghost123uk:

'''California Dreamin'''

'''Under seat VW T25 battery box dimensions:'''
'''310 wide x 175 deep''' (front to back)''' x 185 high'''. Battery box with lid (to enable lid to close)
These are absolute maximum dimensions, a shade less would be better - I have measured to the bottom of a swivel seat on a camper.
'''Just be aware that VW battery box lids won't shut properly with the '''common''' 190mm battery height'''..'''You must buy''' a slightly lower profile''' 175mm battery'''. THIS POINT IS VERY IMPORTANT* (Common standard car battery height is 190mm but you will need one that is 175mm high often refered to as 'low prophile')

Original VW fitment was a Type 075 for petrol engined vehicles (battery under the O/S/F seat and around 60AH) and Type 096 for Diesel engines (battery in the engine bay, these are around the 70-74AH region) However, the more open battery tray area on Diesel engines allows for a much wider choice and it is the restricted size of the VW battery boxes under the front seats that limit choice for petrol van owners.

Therefore, if petrol van owners are looking for a little more..umph! a '''UK Type 100''' is a sensible upgrade without breaking the bank, these are (usually low profile at 175mm high) at the same time have increased capacity (typically 68 - 74ah with 'cold cranking capacity' in the region of 630 - 700 CCA) whilst still retaining the correct terminal orientation. These have greater cranking capacity over the standard size and will easily power all engine derivatives..Diesel & petrol, with lots in reserve. This size leaves about 15mm space either size so is pretty close to filling the box entirely. Word of caution at this point* some manufactures use battery lables that put Type 096 & 100 together i.e. 096/100 .. Just be absolutely sure in these circumstances that you are buying a low profile battery that is 175mm tall*

As a footnote* If you want the ABSOLUTE highest capacity starter battery 'that fits' lid shut! then you can use a Type 110. These are rated around the 80ah with a CCA upwards of 700 'very powerful' and literally 'squeeze' into a VW battery box...squeeze in not an understatement! but several of us have fitted a Type 110 with success. I used an EXIDE brand Type 110 that measured W315 X H175 X D175 but I know others also fit..JUST! I actually measured mine at 310mm across the top but 315mm at the base where the retaining ridges stick out for the fasten down bracket.
Note* the recommendations above are mainly starter battery specific. Starter batteries can give good service used as a leisure, as long as they are not too heavily discharged and are recharged straight away. However, a true deep cycle leisure battery has increased resilience and more likely to recover from a regular discharged state. However, this '''does not''' make them immune as they can and will be damaged by this kind of abuse, so heavily discharging leisure batteries of any type should be avoided if possible. Personally, I have had good service from starter batteries used as a leisure, however, I am quite particular about keeping them charged and have a 100watt Solar panel for this purpose. The choice of course is yours.

Note* As these batteries are effectively 'inside' the cab area you might occasionally catch a wiff of hydrogen gas when being charged (usually on hookup with a spit charge setup). To elliminate this you can vent the gas through the base of the battery box using a battery vent kit (basically some washer pipe and a small plastic elbow that fits in one end of the battery vent rail and routes down and out through a grommet in the tray base)

'''Here comes the disclaimer....ALWAYS CHECK AND MEASURE THE SPACE YOU HAVE AND COMPARE THIS TO THE ACTUAL ADVERTISED BATTERY SIZE''' although battery companies use universal sizes, they will vary slightly between brands.

==Leisure batteries and suppliers==
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/skins/common/images/button_bold.png
This guy deals in all sorts of batteries and is well aware of the T25 height restriction. I had my doubts whether it was a 'real' leisure battery as the one I got had no stickers or marking identifying it as such, however it has been in the van a few years and has been fine. The guy has sold quite a few to T25 owners and is well aware of the dimension restrictions.

[http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THE-BATTERY-MANs-SHOP__W0QQ_armrsZ1 The battery mans shop]

'''Note this is the same as Alpha batteries listed below, this is the ebay outlet'''

These are slightly high but you may get away with it depending on your set up. It would be a good idea to cover the positive with a rubber boot protective cover to prevent a short and potential fire risk.

12V 90AH LOW HEIGHT LEISURE BATTERY. CARAVAN/MOTORHOME

317mm x 175mm x 190mm

Weight: 20kg

'''ALPHA BATTERIES''' do advertise a 100ah Leisure battery specifically for the VW T25 battery box '''(low profile 175mm tall)'''. Just type into a 'Google search' ''''T25 low profile leisure battery'''' and you will either be directed to an ebay link or their online store. '''NOTE*''' just be aware that although advertised as a 100ah it is actually rated at 90ah due to how they measure the discharge rate (on a 100 hour cycle and not 20 hours as with most) So bare in mind that its a 90AH... so still pretty damn good, cost was around £85 april 2015 on ebay, £90 on their site.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Leisure battery to fit under the seat in a T25? Haven't got the whole post, but these looked like the best candidates:

[http://www.furneauxriddall.com/ available from Furneaux Riddall]

VA/W096 - Solent 
£32.24 63Ah 2year 280 175 175

065TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

096TE - Exide Ultra 
£57.84 70Ah 4year 280 175 175

097TE - Exide Ultra 
£43.79 60Ah 4year 242 175 175

090VSE - Exide classic 
£47.79 60Ah 3year 242 175 175

095SE - Exide classic 
£46.64 63Ah 3year 278 175 175

096SE - Exide classic 
£42.77 63Ah 3year 280 175 175

100VSE - Exide classic 
£59.20 70Ah 3year 280 175 175

'''N.B.''' They are not strictly leisure batteries, but high capacity batteries that should hopefully be able to stand a bit of deep cycling. PRICES DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found several Numax 60Ah batteries that fit priced £38.60 plus vat (£45.59 delivered)

[http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/219/6/Car-Battery-by-Brand-Numax-Car-Batteries-page6.html/ Numax from Tayna Electrical Supplies (6 batteries on page 6)]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Save on silly postage costs by using your local Manbat branch. They stock all the Numax batteries listed on Tayna and are most likely cheaper. (Although they recently told me on enquiry that they now only stock sealed maintenance free Numax- I'd much prefer open cells)

[http://www.manbat.co.uk/distributors// Find your local Manbat distributer]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'''''Actual Leisure Batteries'''''

Some Varta and Delphi batteries are the right size. Though they range from around £60 - £90

[http://www.barden-uk.com/ barden uk marine leisure batteries]

----
elecsol 100Amp hour look like it may fit seen on this Ebay shop [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Motoroam] or [http://www.motoroam.co.uk/]

[[Image:Elecsol-leisure-battery.jpg]]

An Elecsol 100 amp hour battery will fit in the box under your seat but a westy battery flap will not close and a seat without a swivel mech will foul the battery when slid back.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/buy-online/caravan-batteries-boat-batteries-leisure-batteries/12v-ultra-plus-80amp-cheap-leisure-battery/prod_31.html Alpha batteries (12v ultra plus 80 Amp)]

12V Ultra Plus 80Amp Cheap Leisure Battery
Product Code: '''12V25''' (no longer applies as of 2012) phone them with the vehicle type they are well aeware of the space restriction. '''Hacksawbob''' Just on a side note I have been running a battery off these guys in my van as a leisure for about 8 years now without issues.

Offering both quality and value for money the Ultra Plus Leisure Battery is built for year round performance. 
Maintenance free and with a three year warranty. 
Great for Caravans, Motorhomes, Camping, Electric fences and back up power 

Specifications: 
12 V; 80AH; 600cca; Deep Cycle Technology

Dimensions: 
285mm Long; 175mm Wide; 175mm Height

Price (as of May 2010) £59.99 (includes free next-day delivery & 3-year warranty from Rochdale supplier)

'''Note this is the same supplier as "the battery man" on ebay and mentioned above.'''

== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==

'''From ghost123uk'''

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, like these = http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Camping Interior Fitting a split charger

2015-09-19T08:53:49Z

Ghost123uk: /* Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge */

== Split charge 1 ==
[http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/main%20pages/technical_stuff_home_page.htm Also see1]
== Split charge 2 ==
[http://www.kampenwagen.co.uk/split%20charge%20relay.htm Also See2] Link no longer active April 2011

== Split charge 3 ==
Wiring a split charge relay is pretty simple, the theory is that as soon as the alternator starts charging the relay links the leisure battery with the main battery to charge both. When the engine is not running or is cranking the engine (important) then the two batteries are separated. This allows the leisure battery to be discharged while leaving the vehicle battery to start the engine. I have been asked why not just connect the relay to an ignition switched live (one which comes on with the key) and indeed I have done so in a Ford recovery van to charge a second battery for jump starting. The trouble is the T25 (T3) does not have an accessories position on it's key, the Ford did and this was disconnected when the engine was being cranked. If the leisure battery is not disconnected during cranking then a large load will be placed on the linking wires and the inline fuses will blow.

Enough theory, the wiring ....

'''Diagram with upgraded wiring'''

[[image:Splitchargecircuit2.jpg]]

The numbers on the relay are standard and any accessory relay of the type sold for spotlights etc will do,however, one rated 40 amps or over is recommended. The fuse sizes should work fine (a bigger fuse will be OK but make sure the fuse is rated less than the wire), The 'thin wire to no charge light' on the T25 (T3) is blue and runs from the alternator, behind the fuse box to pin 11 on the multi-pin connector behind the dash. You can connect into it almost anywhere but I would recommend behind the fuse box if going for the front of the van as the multi-pin connector and the thick-film circuit it plugs into are quite delicate and best not disturbed if working OK. If you have a 12v fridge then it probably already has a relay wired like the one above and, if you can locate it, you can simply join to the wire feeding terminal 86 on that relay.

'''Excalibur:'''

... but use 35 amp fuses and 45 amp wires instead and make sure you use a 40amp relay at least.
[http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6436&criteria=relay&doy=5m3 The 40A relay from Maplin]

== Split charge 4 ==

Recently added for anyone who has one of these smart/intelligent relays:

[[Image:splitkeys.jpg]]

As Midlifecrisis explains:

This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it '''doesn't need the signal wire''' from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).

The terminals should be connected as follows:

The first two terminals are identical and bridged together so are basically ONE terminal:
* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
Whichever is used to go to starter positive, you'll need a 30-40amp fuse on that line. You could then use the other as a spare feed from starter battery if you needed to power something direct from there.
* 6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again use a 30-40amp fuse)
* 4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)
* 2 - connected to your 12v fridge (if you want this feature) - again via a suitable fuse. This connection is only live with engine running and goes dead when your engine is off.

How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.

If you just want to charge the leisure battery, then I'd suggest that you could connect both pins 6 and 2 to the leisure battery - this way they will share the current load.

-----------------

'''Voltage sensing relays'''

'''Horza:'''

[ Self-Switching_Combination_Relay £12 from towsure] will buy you a relay with some basic intelligence that will avoid an alternator connection for your split charger.

You can get, and I have one somewhere, a charging relay as used in caravan towbar fits. This black magic box takes 12v from any suitable place in the vehicle (big wires and appropriate fusing rcomended) and out puts 12v for battery charging when the engine is running without the need for it switching input from the alternator or the ignition.

I don't know how it works (that would be the magic bit) but I do know it does (I tested it). You might want to have a look next time your at the scrappys. Look for the ''giveaway'' twin plugs next to the towbar that marks out caravan tow cars.

The one I have is this:-

Smartcom google search [http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=smartcom+relay+UK&hl=en&safe=active&prmd=ivns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryUK%7CcountryGB&cr=countryUK%7CcountryGB&sa=X&ei=jjjJTaq-Osmi8QPf3c3PBg&ved=0CB0QpwUoAQ]

It shouldn't be that hard for me to spot as it's bright orange. I think it's 30a with 2 outputs that are only live with the engine running (fridge and battery) and one always on output (it's for running your lights and stuff from the car battery while parked up, daft eh?) £10, bargain?

Or also this:-

[http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Towbar_electrical_parts.html Split charge relay from Western Towing]

You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)

'''California Dreamin''': Just a word of warning when 'rating' your split charge components. Whilst a 30amp relay, voltage sensing or otherwise, might appear to work well initially, I have to question the 'long term' reliability given that I know, from personal experience, that a heavily discharged battery can draw mid 30's amps on initial start, dropping quickly after a few seconds but never the less, in excess of the rating of the components mentioned above.
Therefore, the sensible recommendation would be 40amp as a minimum with fuses always rated lower than the weakest component.

It's also a 30A unit, still auto sensing, same outputs but tasteful black. £12.87 and a bit harder to find in the rear light cluster of a crash damaged Carlton due to it's stealth looks.

[http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-727-33-12v-durite-voltage-sensitive-relay-for-charge-splitting-8096-p.asp] Durite 140 Amp Voltage sensing relay, very neat around £40

== Split charge relays explained ==

Covkid: Relays can be a bit of a mystery for anyone unfamiliar with electrics but actually, they're very simple. Basically, in vehicles relays are used where the current being switched on or off would put too much strain on a regular switch or wiring. In fact the solenoid on the starter is a big relay. Without it you'd need a giant buzz bar on the dash like something from a Frankenstein movie just to start the camper. Modern cars may have many such relays and when you add new accessories (say a powerful horn) you'll usually need a relay. Its all about current draw. In the case of split charging you're working directly with the batteries and switching power via heavy cables so a relay, rated for the job, is used to do this.

The diagram below shows what the relay does and how it all works. Basically the relay is two distinct parts - a small switch (86/85), switching a bigger one (30/87) but the two circuits are '''not''' electrically connected. Think of it as two toggle switches connected by a plastic bar. Switch one and it switches the other. Once 86/85 go live with voltage through blue trigger wire from the alternator, the switch at top pulls down, allowing power to flow through contacts 30/87 via heavy cable from alternator to leisure battery. Turn off engine and relay switch goes off, isolating leisure battery from charging circuit.

Second diagram is a 5 pin relay with the extra terminal - 87a. This circuit/terminal is '''only''' connected when the alternator is '''not''' charging - ie relay off. This can be handy and is often used to connect something like a small trickle charge solar panel to top up the battery on sunny days. When the engine is started and relay switches in, that contact is lost and solar panel disconnected. Switch off engine and solar panel is connected again. You may find other uses for such a contact - say an extra dash light to show relay kicking in or out. If you want more information about the state of the leisure battery, you could fit a simple and inexpensive LCD voltage meter which I penned some time ago: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_tracing_battery_discharging_cause

[[image:relaywires.jpg]]

There are all kinds of relays used for all kinds of applications from huge ones to small components in electronic equipment but essentially this is what a relay does. Other relays may not have same terminal numbers and may be rated for different applications. Higher rated relays have better contacts for the main 30/87 side to switch even heavier current. Certainly you can get auto relays up to 100amps and beyond. My own relay is rated at 80amps but to be honest a 40amp relay would be enough.

If you're in any doubt as to whether a relay even works or not, assuming its removed from vehicle, you can find out whether terminals 30 and 87 are able to pass battery charging current by applying 12v to terminal 86 and earthing 85 to the chassis (it should click). Then put an ohms meter across 30 and 87. Try it with the 12v off and on and the 30 and 87 should make or break the circuit. Basically charging only occurs when voltage is available via 86/85. I've used relays with different terminal numbers by working them out in this fashion - some japanese ones are simply labelled 1-4.

In normal use the relay will click in when the engine is running and the ignition light goes out but if you're not sure, with engine running, carefully disconnect earth wire (85) on relay and you should feel the relay click off. If it doesn't, the earth is either poor, the small blue trigger wire (86) from alternator disconnected somewhere (they generally work best direct from alternator I find) or the alternator faulty. A failing brush/diode pack in the alternator could also cause the trigger wire to not generate the voltage needed to energise the relay. Look in those areas and rule out each.

Headlamp relays? They use the original power cable that goes to bulb to energise 86/85 instead whilst a new heavier gauge wire is used for headlight via 30/87. That means the headlight switch no longer carries heavy current with potential for burnt contacts and headlights get a much better route to the power source. Anyone that does not have the relay upgrade on their own camper should consider it. The T25 is notorious for a voltage drop on headlamps and even without fitting better bulbs, the relays transform the output of even standard headlights. See http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_Upgrading_headlights

== Fridge ==

To wire a 12volt fridge use exactly the same circuit but replace the leisure battery with the fridge in the diagram above and check the current drawn by the fridge for wire sizes and fuse ratings. The same 'sense' wire (the blue one) can operate both relays comfortably (mine has been like that for two years at time of writing).

Finally at all costs be safe, although 12v wont give you a shock the current produced by a battery will easily set fire to the wiring if allowed to 'short', make sure all connections are insulated, mount the relay on something solid and make all connections securly, in order of preferance solder, terminal strip or crimp, don't use scotchloks and always fit the fuses.

'''Tip for finding the "multi-pin connector"'''

The connector you want is plain white and sits up underneath the dash, close to the steering column and behind the clocks - nowhere near the fusebox.
The connector is best found by turning oneself upside down with your head in the footwell and then looking up - it disconnects with a careful pull.
The connector has some very small numbers on it - you need to find the blue wire from number 11 and join your relay to this You can test if you have the right wire by disconnecting the blue wire from terminal 11 and then seeing if the red 'no charge' light ( on the dash) still comes on when you first start the engine - with the correct blue wire disconnected the light shouldn't come on at all.
Just make sure that you reconnect the wire back into number 11 when you've finished or you'll spend hours wondering why the no charge light has stopped working - don't ask me how I know this!.

== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==

To prevent permanent damage, the minimum voltage you should ever let your battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. It is all too easy to fall asleep leaving a bit of equipment on (TV, Laptop, Propex etc) and if this flattens the battery you have done it serious harm and it will never hold as good a charge again. Do it a couple of times and you're then looking at buying a new battery. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low. They can usually be bought from Ebay for not much money, like these = http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12V%20%20LOW%20VOLTAGE%20DISCONNECT&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

Camping Interior Fitting a split charger

2015-09-19T08:46:08Z

Ghost123uk:

== Split charge 1 ==
[http://www.keithandsylvia.co.uk/main%20pages/technical_stuff_home_page.htm Also see1]
== Split charge 2 ==
[http://www.kampenwagen.co.uk/split%20charge%20relay.htm Also See2] Link no longer active April 2011

== Split charge 3 ==
Wiring a split charge relay is pretty simple, the theory is that as soon as the alternator starts charging the relay links the leisure battery with the main battery to charge both. When the engine is not running or is cranking the engine (important) then the two batteries are separated. This allows the leisure battery to be discharged while leaving the vehicle battery to start the engine. I have been asked why not just connect the relay to an ignition switched live (one which comes on with the key) and indeed I have done so in a Ford recovery van to charge a second battery for jump starting. The trouble is the T25 (T3) does not have an accessories position on it's key, the Ford did and this was disconnected when the engine was being cranked. If the leisure battery is not disconnected during cranking then a large load will be placed on the linking wires and the inline fuses will blow.

Enough theory, the wiring ....

'''Diagram with upgraded wiring'''

[[image:Splitchargecircuit2.jpg]]

The numbers on the relay are standard and any accessory relay of the type sold for spotlights etc will do,however, one rated 40 amps or over is recommended. The fuse sizes should work fine (a bigger fuse will be OK but make sure the fuse is rated less than the wire), The 'thin wire to no charge light' on the T25 (T3) is blue and runs from the alternator, behind the fuse box to pin 11 on the multi-pin connector behind the dash. You can connect into it almost anywhere but I would recommend behind the fuse box if going for the front of the van as the multi-pin connector and the thick-film circuit it plugs into are quite delicate and best not disturbed if working OK. If you have a 12v fridge then it probably already has a relay wired like the one above and, if you can locate it, you can simply join to the wire feeding terminal 86 on that relay.

'''Excalibur:'''

... but use 35 amp fuses and 45 amp wires instead and make sure you use a 40amp relay at least.
[http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6436&criteria=relay&doy=5m3 The 40A relay from Maplin]

== Split charge 4 ==

Recently added for anyone who has one of these smart/intelligent relays:

[[Image:splitkeys.jpg]]

As Midlifecrisis explains:

This type monitors the voltage at the starter battery and only activates when it rises above a set level (i.e. when the alternator is working (so the engine is running), the voltage rises and that triggers this relay, so it '''doesn't need the signal wire''' from the alternator, and shouldn't be using this wire for anything).

The terminals should be connected as follows:

The first two terminals are identical and bridged together so are basically ONE terminal:
* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
* 12V - connected to the starter battery positive terminal
Whichever is used to go to starter positive, you'll need a 30-40amp fuse on that line. You could then use the other as a spare feed from starter battery if you needed to power something direct from there.
* 6 - connected to the leisure battery positive (again use a 30-40amp fuse)
* 4 - not connected (apparently this has no use)
* 2 - connected to your 12v fridge (if you want this feature) - again via a suitable fuse. This connection is only live with engine running and goes dead when your engine is off.

How it works - when the relay senses a higher voltage (at the 12V terminals) it connects one 12V terminal to the 6 terminal, and the other 12V terminal to the 2 terminal - so it will charge the leisure battery and also power the fridge.

If you just want to charge the leisure battery, then I'd suggest that you could connect both pins 6 and 2 to the leisure battery - this way they will share the current load.

-----------------

'''Voltage sensing relays'''

'''Horza:'''

[ Self-Switching_Combination_Relay £12 from towsure] will buy you a relay with some basic intelligence that will avoid an alternator connection for your split charger.

You can get, and I have one somewhere, a charging relay as used in caravan towbar fits. This black magic box takes 12v from any suitable place in the vehicle (big wires and appropriate fusing rcomended) and out puts 12v for battery charging when the engine is running without the need for it switching input from the alternator or the ignition.

I don't know how it works (that would be the magic bit) but I do know it does (I tested it). You might want to have a look next time your at the scrappys. Look for the ''giveaway'' twin plugs next to the towbar that marks out caravan tow cars.

The one I have is this:-

Smartcom google search [http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=smartcom+relay+UK&hl=en&safe=active&prmd=ivns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryUK%7CcountryGB&cr=countryUK%7CcountryGB&sa=X&ei=jjjJTaq-Osmi8QPf3c3PBg&ved=0CB0QpwUoAQ]

It shouldn't be that hard for me to spot as it's bright orange. I think it's 30a with 2 outputs that are only live with the engine running (fridge and battery) and one always on output (it's for running your lights and stuff from the car battery while parked up, daft eh?) £10, bargain?

Or also this:-

[http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Towbar_electrical_parts.html Split charge relay from Western Towing]

You have to scroll down to find it - 3rd from bottom on right - labelled as: Split charge relay (ELSCR1)

'''California Dreamin''': Just a word of warning when 'rating' your split charge components. Whilst a 30amp relay, voltage sensing or otherwise, might appear to work well initially, I have to question the 'long term' reliability given that I know, from personal experience, that a heavily discharged battery can draw mid 30's amps on initial start, dropping quickly after a few seconds but never the less, in excess of the rating of the components mentioned above.
Therefore, the sensible recommendation would be 40amp as a minimum with fuses always rated lower than the weakest component.

It's also a 30A unit, still auto sensing, same outputs but tasteful black. £12.87 and a bit harder to find in the rear light cluster of a crash damaged Carlton due to it's stealth looks.

[http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-727-33-12v-durite-voltage-sensitive-relay-for-charge-splitting-8096-p.asp] Durite 140 Amp Voltage sensing relay, very neat around £40

== Split charge relays explained ==

Covkid: Relays can be a bit of a mystery for anyone unfamiliar with electrics but actually, they're very simple. Basically, in vehicles relays are used where the current being switched on or off would put too much strain on a regular switch or wiring. In fact the solenoid on the starter is a big relay. Without it you'd need a giant buzz bar on the dash like something from a Frankenstein movie just to start the camper. Modern cars may have many such relays and when you add new accessories (say a powerful horn) you'll usually need a relay. Its all about current draw. In the case of split charging you're working directly with the batteries and switching power via heavy cables so a relay, rated for the job, is used to do this.

The diagram below shows what the relay does and how it all works. Basically the relay is two distinct parts - a small switch (86/85), switching a bigger one (30/87) but the two circuits are '''not''' electrically connected. Think of it as two toggle switches connected by a plastic bar. Switch one and it switches the other. Once 86/85 go live with voltage through blue trigger wire from the alternator, the switch at top pulls down, allowing power to flow through contacts 30/87 via heavy cable from alternator to leisure battery. Turn off engine and relay switch goes off, isolating leisure battery from charging circuit.

Second diagram is a 5 pin relay with the extra terminal - 87a. This circuit/terminal is '''only''' connected when the alternator is '''not''' charging - ie relay off. This can be handy and is often used to connect something like a small trickle charge solar panel to top up the battery on sunny days. When the engine is started and relay switches in, that contact is lost and solar panel disconnected. Switch off engine and solar panel is connected again. You may find other uses for such a contact - say an extra dash light to show relay kicking in or out. If you want more information about the state of the leisure battery, you could fit a simple and inexpensive LCD voltage meter which I penned some time ago: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_tracing_battery_discharging_cause

[[image:relaywires.jpg]]

There are all kinds of relays used for all kinds of applications from huge ones to small components in electronic equipment but essentially this is what a relay does. Other relays may not have same terminal numbers and may be rated for different applications. Higher rated relays have better contacts for the main 30/87 side to switch even heavier current. Certainly you can get auto relays up to 100amps and beyond. My own relay is rated at 80amps but to be honest a 40amp relay would be enough.

If you're in any doubt as to whether a relay even works or not, assuming its removed from vehicle, you can find out whether terminals 30 and 87 are able to pass battery charging current by applying 12v to terminal 86 and earthing 85 to the chassis (it should click). Then put an ohms meter across 30 and 87. Try it with the 12v off and on and the 30 and 87 should make or break the circuit. Basically charging only occurs when voltage is available via 86/85. I've used relays with different terminal numbers by working them out in this fashion - some japanese ones are simply labelled 1-4.

In normal use the relay will click in when the engine is running and the ignition light goes out but if you're not sure, with engine running, carefully disconnect earth wire (85) on relay and you should feel the relay click off. If it doesn't, the earth is either poor, the small blue trigger wire (86) from alternator disconnected somewhere (they generally work best direct from alternator I find) or the alternator faulty. A failing brush/diode pack in the alternator could also cause the trigger wire to not generate the voltage needed to energise the relay. Look in those areas and rule out each.

Headlamp relays? They use the original power cable that goes to bulb to energise 86/85 instead whilst a new heavier gauge wire is used for headlight via 30/87. That means the headlight switch no longer carries heavy current with potential for burnt contacts and headlights get a much better route to the power source. Anyone that does not have the relay upgrade on their own camper should consider it. The T25 is notorious for a voltage drop on headlamps and even without fitting better bulbs, the relays transform the output of even standard headlights. See http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/VW_Electrics_Upgrading_headlights

== Fridge ==

To wire a 12volt fridge use exactly the same circuit but replace the leisure battery with the fridge in the diagram above and check the current drawn by the fridge for wire sizes and fuse ratings. The same 'sense' wire (the blue one) can operate both relays comfortably (mine has been like that for two years at time of writing).

Finally at all costs be safe, although 12v wont give you a shock the current produced by a battery will easily set fire to the wiring if allowed to 'short', make sure all connections are insulated, mount the relay on something solid and make all connections securly, in order of preferance solder, terminal strip or crimp, don't use scotchloks and always fit the fuses.

'''Tip for finding the "multi-pin connector"'''

The connector you want is plain white and sits up underneath the dash, close to the steering column and behind the clocks - nowhere near the fusebox.
The connector is best found by turning oneself upside down with your head in the footwell and then looking up - it disconnects with a careful pull.
The connector has some very small numbers on it - you need to find the blue wire from number 11 and join your relay to this You can test if you have the right wire by disconnecting the blue wire from terminal 11 and then seeing if the red 'no charge' light ( on the dash) still comes on when you first start the engine - with the correct blue wire disconnected the light shouldn't come on at all.
Just make sure that you reconnect the wire back into number 11 when you've finished or you'll spend hours wondering why the no charge light has stopped working - don't ask me how I know this!.

== Protect your leisure battery from deep discharge ==

The minimum voltage you should ever let a battery fall to is 11.5 Volts. You can buy a thing called an "LVD" (Low Voltage Disconnect) that automatically disconnects your leisure battery should the voltage fall too low, Here is one = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-PROGRAMMABLE-LOW-VOLTAGE-DISCONNECT-LVD-WITH-LCD-DISPLAY-PROTECT-BATTERY-/271768600800?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f46abc0e0[/quote]

Garages T25 Specific

2015-05-31T08:58:40Z

Ghost123uk: /* N.East */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

Anyone know any T25 competent garages in the N. East? If so, pm me, ghost123uk, and I will add them here.

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-05-31T08:42:23Z

Ghost123uk: /* Midlands */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, and overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-05-31T08:39:13Z

Ghost123uk: /* Midlands */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail. They are located between Spalding and Boston.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2015-05-31T08:36:30Z

Ghost123uk: /* Midlands */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In South Lincolnshire = T3Volution''', Quadring, Lincolnshire - Tel: 07501 898181 - Website: http://www.t3volution.com/ - Email: si@t3volution.com

T3Volution provide a large range of services, from routine servicing, diagnostics and repairs to engine conversions, brake and suspension upgrades, overland travel preparation. Syncro’s are also catered for. Si has many years of experience with T25s and a high reputation for attension to detail.

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing

2015-01-27T13:52:55Z

Ghost123uk: /* Other */

== Introduction==

The spigot shaft bearing is the common name for a (usually needle) bearing (or plain bush ) in the clutch end of the crankshaft that helps to align and support the 'spigot' or gearbox input shaft (sometimes called the 1st motion shaft)

VW T25(UK)/T3 (Euro) utilise needle rollers beearings as their input shafts project a considerable distance from the first(closest) of the their gearbox support bearings.

A characteristic of a worn spigot shaft bearing is a rattling from that bellhousing area when the engine is idling in neutral and the clutch engaged... depressing the clucth pedal removes drive to the input shaft and rattling/knocking may cease, a fairly accepted diagnosis.

Also note that on WBX's there is a felt washer in a recess in the flywheel that might best be changed too, and that you will need the correct needle brg for your engine/gearbox combination

[HM]

==Alt Engines and (missing) spigot shaft bearings ==

'''NB.''' When replacing your T25 engine with another Alt Eng. such as a VW in-line 4 (Golf 1800 etc)
it is wise to check whether it actually has a spigot-shaft bearing in the crankshaft recess.

Many other engines do not (or have a plain bush) as their 1st motion shaft /input shaft are short and fully cantilevered from the gearbox bearings. 
This requires one to be fitted to suit the T25 g.box spigot.

This also applies to Alt Diesel engines.

The result of overlooking this can do a lot of damage to the input side of the gearbox, such as the oil seal, bearing and oil thrower, and annoys the bejesus out of Aidan to boot :)

[HM]

==How to replace a spigot shaft bearing - Aidan==

'''Aidan:''' So faced with flywheel

[[File:spigshftbrg_01.jpg]]

you need to undo the 5 bolts holding it on - it helps to have an impact gun, but failing that a 2 foot bar and another long bar or a flywheel locking tool to hold the flywheel whilst you undo them 10mm Hex

leaves you with 
[[File:spigshftbrg_02.jpg]]

then armed with your puller or slide hammer
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_03.jpg]]

fit into bearing and tighten then fit slide hammer

 
[[File:spigshftbrg_04.jpg]]

and start to pull it 
[[File:spigshftbrg_05.jpg]]

till it comes out :ok

[[File:spigshftbrg_06.jpg]]

leaving an empty space in the flywheel with a stop behind
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_07.jpg]]

this shows the diesel spigot bearing on the left and petrol on right, the flat face with the writing on faces the gearbox the curved end faces the engine when fitted
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_08.jpg]]

as you can see the receiving hole in the crank is 21mm
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_09.jpg]]

as is the bearing shell outer diameter
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_10.jpg]]

and the inner dimension is 15mm ish - to match the spigot end of the input shaft which will be just under 15mm (like 14.97mm)

 
[[File:spigshftbrg_11.jpg]]

and the felt washer on the petrol engine fits in the recess on the back of the flywheel and the sealing o ring sits in the groove, just visible in the picture
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_12.jpg]]

Replace the 'O' ring, the washer and the spigot bearing and reassemble - flywheel bolts need to be tight but VW tightening spec is scary tight as previously noted - 60Nm (44ftlb) plus an added 90degrees - you probably won't get them that tight so use a very little threadlock

Lube the new bearing with high temp grease :ok

==How to replace a spigot shaft bearing - itchyfeet==

OK so I did this today with the Rawlbolt method, tip courtesy of Ian Hulley, probably wasn't broken but as the box was being replaced with an Aidan Talbot rebuild and as it probably has 100K miles on it I though it was time it was done.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_01.jpg]]

Flywheel needs removing as the bearing won't fit through the hole, for a WBX you need new bolts and an o ring ( oiled with a little fresh oil) and a felt ring. ( Parts all available from Brickwerks)
I replaced the oil seal at the end of last year when the engine was out but this would be another thing I would recommend doing while the flywheel was off.

then fit an M8 Rawlbolt through the bearing, and expand it, you don't want it too far in just past the bearing, I added a nut to stop it coming out.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_02.jpg]]

Then drill a 20mm hole in a block of wood large enough for the rawlbolt body to slide through, add a large washer and tighten.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_03.jpg]]

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_04.jpg]]

New bearing was tapped in with a wooden drift.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_05.jpg]]

As the gearbox nearly fell on me when removing it with a trolley jack I added some eyelets under the decking (I used existing holes but worth drilling some I think) and used ratchet straps to refit the gearbox.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_06.jpg]]

== Links==
Here is a link to a forum thread on this, the 2nd of each pair of links hopefully still working once the topic has been moved to the 80-90 Tech Archive in due course (don't ask!)

'''itchyfeet:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120014 Current forum] 
[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120014 Future Archive]

'''nickthefish:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=83151 Current forum] 
[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=83151 Current forum]

'''jaylo264:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=107122 Current forum] 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=107122 Current forum]

[http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Parts_-_Crankshaft From the diesel spigot-bearing topic]

Yes, I'm confused now too, other than that the flywheel has to come off to do petrol spigot bearings and not for diesels @@

[HM]

==Other==

'''More about spigotty things, including Oil Throwers,Bearings and Seals'''

(The folloowing put here by '''ghost123uk''') - This comprehensive ''' "all you need to know about Spigot Shafts, their seals and oil throwers" ''' is cut and pasted from a thread by '''Aidan Talbot'''

Re Worn spigot bearing and oil thrower etc:-

It is too common a problem, caused usually when numpties fit replacement inline 4 engine and don't fit a spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft of the new engine, 350miles later and the clutch is slipping due to oil contamination, they go back in, maybe fit a spigot bearing and replace the seal but it does it again, often by this time the van has a new owner and another garage trying to figure out what is happening;

sound familiar ?

Either that or some sort of wierd engine is fitted, using an adapter plate and there is an alignment issue, also common with certain converters.

The oil thrower that is fitted in the bellhousing behind the oil seal is essential to reduce the oil load on the seal as the crown wheel is rotating at wheel speed and throwing the oil straight at the back of the seal, or it would be if the oil thrower wasn't there, it runs around 0.5mm clearance on the shaft and is grooved inside to resist the oil being drawn along it by the roatational forces

The oil thrower is not available from VW as a seperate part, it is fitted to the bellhousing just like the dowel pegs and any other interface bits are to make the complete bellhousing part of the gearbox case

One or two of the german suppliers were selling original type pressed steel oil throwers, Winkler maybe Notter ? I don't know if they are still available

When I ran out of bellhousings to reclaim undamaged ones out of (petrol ones usually :lol: ) to repair damaged ones (f...ing diesels mostly) I had to get the machine shop to make some (hand made by machinists on lathe - old school) for my customers' needs, fractionally oversize on the collar to fit slightly worn bellhousings, but if bellhousing is badly worn then it goes to the engineers for sleeving and replacement oil thrower as thrower must be centred otherwise it will run against the input shaft and wear and the cycle will begin again

Choices then are replacement good used bellhousing, check out if available from Germany or failing that drop me an email

When changing the seal it is much easier to do if you remove the bellhousing, for the price of a gasket you get an easier job, the chance to check the input shaft and oil thrower properly and a look at the crown and pinion and a view of the drainplug magnet; an oil change is optional (Ralph), golf tee plug in the breather hole 1oclock on the front case and you can stand it on it's end with the mount removed but unless you know the service history of the box I'd always recommend changing the oil, and then doing it regularly, 2-3 years 20k miles max, more often if used hard, hot, towing, off road etc..

I'd also recommend that you fit a new spigot bearing when doing an engine change or a clutch swap it's the best £8 you can spend, if you have to pull the box and pay a garage to do it figure on minimum £100 labour plus whatever it costs to fix whatever is damaged (shaft, oil thrower, clutch ?) in future; the poor little needle bearing goes from stationary to running at engine speed everytime you press the clutch with the engine running with feedback load from the transmission and yet most people are happy to leave well alone even though it maybe 10 or more years in there, many diesels have the wrong one fitted , the petrol one will fit the diesel engine but doesn't have a built in seal to protect it from the clutch dust like the correct one does - in the petrol engine there is a felt seal in the back of the flywheel to protect the seal, these often get omitted or damaged if/ when flywheels changed, eg when fitting a rebuilt engine that comes with no flywheel (petrol flywheel is pretty much unobtanium new these days in UK)

AND diesel engine boys (and inline 4 engines fitted using the diesel mounts) remember to lift the back of the engine up (ratchet strap and block of wood across hatch) before trying to remove gearbox so it will easily clear the chassis and uncouple without you loading up the spigot end of the input shaft and damaging it by pressing the b..stard hard bearaing needles into the very very thin b...stard hardened surface of the shaft, this is what probably causes the majority of damaged diesel input shafts and spigot bearing failures that are all too common - having the engine at correct angle makes installation much easier too.

Petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing

2015-01-27T13:51:54Z

Ghost123uk: /* Other */

== Introduction==

The spigot shaft bearing is the common name for a (usually needle) bearing (or plain bush ) in the clutch end of the crankshaft that helps to align and support the 'spigot' or gearbox input shaft (sometimes called the 1st motion shaft)

VW T25(UK)/T3 (Euro) utilise needle rollers beearings as their input shafts project a considerable distance from the first(closest) of the their gearbox support bearings.

A characteristic of a worn spigot shaft bearing is a rattling from that bellhousing area when the engine is idling in neutral and the clutch engaged... depressing the clucth pedal removes drive to the input shaft and rattling/knocking may cease, a fairly accepted diagnosis.

Also note that on WBX's there is a felt washer in a recess in the flywheel that might best be changed too, and that you will need the correct needle brg for your engine/gearbox combination

[HM]

==Alt Engines and (missing) spigot shaft bearings ==

'''NB.''' When replacing your T25 engine with another Alt Eng. such as a VW in-line 4 (Golf 1800 etc)
it is wise to check whether it actually has a spigot-shaft bearing in the crankshaft recess.

Many other engines do not (or have a plain bush) as their 1st motion shaft /input shaft are short and fully cantilevered from the gearbox bearings. 
This requires one to be fitted to suit the T25 g.box spigot.

This also applies to Alt Diesel engines.

The result of overlooking this can do a lot of damage to the input side of the gearbox, such as the oil seal, bearing and oil thrower, and annoys the bejesus out of Aidan to boot :)

[HM]

==How to replace a spigot shaft bearing - Aidan==

'''Aidan:''' So faced with flywheel

[[File:spigshftbrg_01.jpg]]

you need to undo the 5 bolts holding it on - it helps to have an impact gun, but failing that a 2 foot bar and another long bar or a flywheel locking tool to hold the flywheel whilst you undo them 10mm Hex

leaves you with 
[[File:spigshftbrg_02.jpg]]

then armed with your puller or slide hammer
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_03.jpg]]

fit into bearing and tighten then fit slide hammer

 
[[File:spigshftbrg_04.jpg]]

and start to pull it 
[[File:spigshftbrg_05.jpg]]

till it comes out :ok

[[File:spigshftbrg_06.jpg]]

leaving an empty space in the flywheel with a stop behind
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_07.jpg]]

this shows the diesel spigot bearing on the left and petrol on right, the flat face with the writing on faces the gearbox the curved end faces the engine when fitted
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_08.jpg]]

as you can see the receiving hole in the crank is 21mm
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_09.jpg]]

as is the bearing shell outer diameter
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_10.jpg]]

and the inner dimension is 15mm ish - to match the spigot end of the input shaft which will be just under 15mm (like 14.97mm)

 
[[File:spigshftbrg_11.jpg]]

and the felt washer on the petrol engine fits in the recess on the back of the flywheel and the sealing o ring sits in the groove, just visible in the picture
 
[[File:spigshftbrg_12.jpg]]

Replace the 'O' ring, the washer and the spigot bearing and reassemble - flywheel bolts need to be tight but VW tightening spec is scary tight as previously noted - 60Nm (44ftlb) plus an added 90degrees - you probably won't get them that tight so use a very little threadlock

Lube the new bearing with high temp grease :ok

==How to replace a spigot shaft bearing - itchyfeet==

OK so I did this today with the Rawlbolt method, tip courtesy of Ian Hulley, probably wasn't broken but as the box was being replaced with an Aidan Talbot rebuild and as it probably has 100K miles on it I though it was time it was done.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_01.jpg]]

Flywheel needs removing as the bearing won't fit through the hole, for a WBX you need new bolts and an o ring ( oiled with a little fresh oil) and a felt ring. ( Parts all available from Brickwerks)
I replaced the oil seal at the end of last year when the engine was out but this would be another thing I would recommend doing while the flywheel was off.

then fit an M8 Rawlbolt through the bearing, and expand it, you don't want it too far in just past the bearing, I added a nut to stop it coming out.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_02.jpg]]

Then drill a 20mm hole in a block of wood large enough for the rawlbolt body to slide through, add a large washer and tighten.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_03.jpg]]

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_04.jpg]]

New bearing was tapped in with a wooden drift.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_05.jpg]]

As the gearbox nearly fell on me when removing it with a trolley jack I added some eyelets under the decking (I used existing holes but worth drilling some I think) and used ratchet straps to refit the gearbox.

[[File:itchyfeet_ssb_06.jpg]]

== Links==
Here is a link to a forum thread on this, the 2nd of each pair of links hopefully still working once the topic has been moved to the 80-90 Tech Archive in due course (don't ask!)

'''itchyfeet:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120014 Current forum] 
[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120014 Future Archive]

'''nickthefish:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=83151 Current forum] 
[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=83151 Current forum]

'''jaylo264:''' thread 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=107122 Current forum] 
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=107122 Current forum]

[http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Parts_-_Crankshaft From the diesel spigot-bearing topic]

Yes, I'm confused now too, other than that the flywheel has to come off to do petrol spigot bearings and not for diesels @@

[HM]

==Other==

'''More about spigotty things, including Oil Throwers,Bearings and Seals'''

This comprehensive ''' "all you need to know about Spigot Shafts, their seals and oil throwers" ''' is cut and pasted from a thread by '''Aidan Talbot'''

Re Worn spigot bearing and oil thrower etc:-

It is too common a problem, caused usually when numpties fit replacement inline 4 engine and don't fit a spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft of the new engine, 350miles later and the clutch is slipping due to oil contamination, they go back in, maybe fit a spigot bearing and replace the seal but it does it again, often by this time the van has a new owner and another garage trying to figure out what is happening;

sound familiar ?

Either that or some sort of wierd engine is fitted, using an adapter plate and there is an alignment issue, also common with certain converters.

The oil thrower that is fitted in the bellhousing behind the oil seal is essential to reduce the oil load on the seal as the crown wheel is rotating at wheel speed and throwing the oil straight at the back of the seal, or it would be if the oil thrower wasn't there, it runs around 0.5mm clearance on the shaft and is grooved inside to resist the oil being drawn along it by the roatational forces

The oil thrower is not available from VW as a seperate part, it is fitted to the bellhousing just like the dowel pegs and any other interface bits are to make the complete bellhousing part of the gearbox case

One or two of the german suppliers were selling original type pressed steel oil throwers, Winkler maybe Notter ? I don't know if they are still available

When I ran out of bellhousings to reclaim undamaged ones out of (petrol ones usually :lol: ) to repair damaged ones (f...ing diesels mostly) I had to get the machine shop to make some (hand made by machinists on lathe - old school) for my customers' needs, fractionally oversize on the collar to fit slightly worn bellhousings, but if bellhousing is badly worn then it goes to the engineers for sleeving and replacement oil thrower as thrower must be centred otherwise it will run against the input shaft and wear and the cycle will begin again

Choices then are replacement good used bellhousing, check out if available from Germany or failing that drop me an email

When changing the seal it is much easier to do if you remove the bellhousing, for the price of a gasket you get an easier job, the chance to check the input shaft and oil thrower properly and a look at the crown and pinion and a view of the drainplug magnet; an oil change is optional (Ralph), golf tee plug in the breather hole 1oclock on the front case and you can stand it on it's end with the mount removed but unless you know the service history of the box I'd always recommend changing the oil, and then doing it regularly, 2-3 years 20k miles max, more often if used hard, hot, towing, off road etc..

I'd also recommend that you fit a new spigot bearing when doing an engine change or a clutch swap it's the best £8 you can spend, if you have to pull the box and pay a garage to do it figure on minimum £100 labour plus whatever it costs to fix whatever is damaged (shaft, oil thrower, clutch ?) in future; the poor little needle bearing goes from stationary to running at engine speed everytime you press the clutch with the engine running with feedback load from the transmission and yet most people are happy to leave well alone even though it maybe 10 or more years in there, many diesels have the wrong one fitted , the petrol one will fit the diesel engine but doesn't have a built in seal to protect it from the clutch dust like the correct one does - in the petrol engine there is a felt seal in the back of the flywheel to protect the seal, these often get omitted or damaged if/ when flywheels changed, eg when fitting a rebuilt engine that comes with no flywheel (petrol flywheel is pretty much unobtanium new these days in UK)

AND diesel engine boys (and inline 4 engines fitted using the diesel mounts) remember to lift the back of the engine up (ratchet strap and block of wood across hatch) before trying to remove gearbox so it will easily clear the chassis and uncouple without you loading up the spigot end of the input shaft and damaging it by pressing the b..stard hard bearaing needles into the very very thin b...stard hardened surface of the shaft, this is what probably causes the majority of damaged diesel input shafts and spigot bearing failures that are all too common - having the engine at correct angle makes installation much easier too.

Camping Interior Propex

2015-01-18T10:26:49Z

Ghost123uk: /* Forum links */

==Specifications==

===1.8 KW Propex===
ECONOMY

[http://www.marcleleisure.co.uk/store/product_print.php?products_id=4187&osCsid=8d3c95b6cb7ff1316af304115558603f These are the specs for a modern Propex:]

Gas consumption for a Propex Space Heater HS2000 - Single outlet - 12 volt (calculated on a continuous running basis) as follows :-

Average gas consumption 128grams/hour 
3.9kg propane cylinder 30.5hrs 
4.5kg butane 35.0hrs 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Heat input 1.8KW 
Heat output 1.6KW 
Voltage 12V or 24V 
Current consumption 1.2A cont. running 
Air throughput 50 C.F.M.

Propex support info: http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/support

Propex 1600 Compact: http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/pdf/compact

----

==Contact Propex==

[[Image:Propex-label.JPG]]

==Propex Heater Use==

Yes, you can safely use your Propex while driving (whoopee) but always turn it off before you drive into a petrol station. Get the heater checked by Propex if you have issues you can't solve easily. Turn it on at least once a month (even in the Summer) to make sure it is fully functional - they hate being left.

==Hard Starting==

'''Anon:''' Unfortunately, it refused to light. I could hear the sound of the ignition trying to fire up but no warm air. Everything else works fine i.e. the fridge and the hob but not my heater.
Are they dependent on gas pressure as I am unsure of the amount of gas left in the bottle?
Any ideas before I freeze to death?

'''Hacksawbob''' Propex won't light if pressure is too low, get a refill and try again. Also if your running blue bottle (butane) this doesn't like the cold so wont light. ( Only solution is to warm the bottle (I've heard of people taking it into the shower with them on campsites!) or upgrade to propane (red bottles) you'll need to change the regulator too. I have an autohomes and the red bottle wont stand up in the cupboard so lie it down when not in use and secure it some how for driving.

'''Aidan:''' Modern version needs to be used regularly 'cos there's a secondary passive fan with an optical sensor in the air flow to check the flow is as required, part of interlock for CE approval that old ones didn't have apparantly. If not used the bearing grease in the passive fan goes a bit thick and so when the blower notor blows the fan doesn't spin fast enough to activate the optical sensor so locks out. 
I phoned Propex when this happened to me and the advice was take an airline with nozzle on and blow through the external pipes in the inlet which will spin up the passive fan, after about thirty secs the grease will be redispersed and the thing will then light ok when you go through the normal start. Worked fine for me, I used an old sock to seal the inlet end with the air line blower attachment. 
'''Top tip''' from Propex (and it's in the manual) is run the heater every month, even in the summer just to keep it free running and ready to light when you really need it.

==Propex will not fire up==

The Propex heater supply line MUST be up to the job. Inadequate cable can cause voltage drop and the heater will either not fire up or will not run for long. See:http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=118113

It also won't fire if no gas is present or in the case of blue gas bottles, the temperature is too low. Propane (red bottles) are recommended for all year round use but you can use butane (blue) providing ambient temperature is not too cold. For hardened winter campers or those that like to use their Propex on winter mornings, Propane (red) is the only choice.

==Adjusting Sensitivity==

The Adjuster preset is a hysteresis control which can alter the temperature differential from 4°C to 1/2°C.

To adjust the thermostat, first pull the dial knob off and remove case by undoing the screw beneath the knob.

If you look carefully at the board you should see a small white round component, into which you can insert a tiny screwdriver and turn to adjust. Note its present position for reference. There is a small arrow in the centre to show which way it is adjusted.

For maximum sensitivity turn the preset fully anticlockwise, and for minimum sensitivity turn it clockwise.
The preset is not a linear control and most of the adjustment is toward the anticlockwise endstop.

You don't want it so sensitive that the heater cuts in and out too regularly as it will be less economic to run. Trial and error may be needed to get it just right.

==Testing Propex Heater==

If you need to test a Propex to see if its working (ie you've got a s/h one) or you think thermostat may be faulty, with heater isolated connect the red and orange together and connect to 12v +. Connect black to earth or chassis. Ignore the purple wire. If the heater tries to fire then heater probably works. If it doesn't the fault is in the heater or spark generator (black box) and your best bet is to send it to Protex for checks/repairs - its cheaper than a new heater.

==Remote Controlled Propex==

Penned by Covkid

[[File:remoteconx.jpg]]

Why a remote control? A remote control for your Propex is perfect for those days when you're knee-deep in snow or your locks are frozen solid or you want to defrost and not have to scrape windows like everyone else. It works from indoors so no more trips out in the cold to turn your Propex on!

DO remember you take on this project at your own risk. It could invalidate your guarantee and neither I nor 80-90 accept responsibility if you damage your Propex circuitry or anything else.

'''Overview'''

You can ofcourse trigger the 'heating on' circuit in various ways, ie via a tracker and other phone-based systems but then you may be paying to switch your heater on. In addition, too often people wire them into the heater supply line and it won't then go through a normal shut-down routine which would leave the heater case interior far too hot and potentially damage components and/or items close to the heater. Propex added the cool-down cycle for good reasons. This project switches the heater off correctly and uses an RF remote control transmitter (rather than infra-red).

Heres the remote kit type I used (under a fiver): http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=12V+10A+Relay+2CH+Wireless+RF+Remote+Control&_sacat=0 - Single or dual channel is all you need unless you want to control lots of things remotely. It should be rated for at least 10 amps. They all work in a similar way but some have far more relays than you'd ever need. Try to keep it simple.

The Propex control unit is a relatively simple affair - a thermostatic control and a relay to switch the heater/fan load. The thermostat is operated manually by a rocker switch and dial with LED indicators to show present mode of operation. There are two models I know of - this just happens to be mine but principals apply to both. Adding a remote function still allows you to use the control unit manually - or up to several metres away via your remote fob. Manufacturer claims it will operate over a range of 50-100m (open area).

'''Connections'''

Pictured below is the Propex thermostat board removed from its case. You'll need to remove this for the soldering but do draw a diagram of where the original wires went to you can put it back correctly. Later boards have terminal blocks instead of screw/ring connections (see below) but otherwise operate the same.

[[File:Thermorem1.jpg]]

Firstly you'll need to solder a two-core cable off from back of rocker switch to remote receiver (solder points shown here with red spots):

[[File:Thermorem2.jpg]]

This new cable (basically a loop) goes to load side of relay (relevant connectors on green terminal block) on remote receiver shown below. This is actually the only connection needed between thermostat and remote receiver. Essentially all you're doing is copying exactly what the rocker does when you switch the heater to 'heat' or 'off' - but remotely.

[[File:remunit1.jpg]]
''Typical remote control unit''

Wired this way, when you switch off at remote controlled fob, heater will also still go through its normal cool-down cycle (important). The only other cable that needs to go to remote receiver is 12v +- to provide power to it, which you can either take from thermostat itself or another 12v point nearby. The receiver doesn't draw much (most of it is actually 5v on the board) but it needs the full 12v to power the relay.

If your thermostat looks different to mine (ie yours has terminal blocks), with the board out, just put a meter between middle and outer terminals on back of board and check for continuity when you switch to 'heater on' position. Then you know which terminals are the ones you want. Whichever has continuity is the correct side. With it switched the other way, you'll get fan only ofcourse. If this has lost you already, please don't attempt it - get someone who knows what they're doing.

'''Functionality'''

Bear in mind, if you have manually switched heater on (ie via rocker switch), the remote receiver will click away but it will have no effect on heater. The rocker will always overide the remote function. Remote will only work if rocker is in mid-position (ie switched off at thermostat). I'll be stating the obvious to some, but best explained.

It seems to work over quite a distance - certainly from indoors. I found it worked ok from the opposite side of the house. I see no reason why it could't operate over 50-100m in an open area as claimed, but through brick/metal etc, this range will obviously be much less.

I ran long cable (initially) to remote receiver so I could test which position will be best to mount it for optimimum range via remote but window level is ideal.

'''Further Thoughts:'''

Rather than solder to thermostat switch, you could in fact (if you follow circuit tracks - simply connect one wire at screw terminals but it can get a bit cramped then.

You could fit a plug socket in the stock thermostat case (suitably rated) so the remote unit just plugs into it. That way you can unplug it and everything is as it was.

The perfect solution (and where I'm taking this project now) is to remount thermostat board inside a slightly bigger vented project box, along with remote receiver and install a seperate choc-bloc arrangement inside to allow for all the internal connections. It would then be entirely self-contained, lose the connections between thermostat and remote receiver, and only have the stock cable coming out of the box. It seems likely that were Propex to offer a remote facility, thats just how they'd construct it - as a combined unit. You do however need to weigh up the time involved - and whether you possess the skills.

There are a couple of ways to do this. The first would be to take the complete back of the original stock thermostat case with board still attached, and mount inside a larger case as it is. If you'd prefer to do that, I suggest Maplins "Vented PSU Enclosure 9" (Code: N11KH) but its a bigger case at 156 x 88 x 49. The alternative (probably) would be to cut down the edges of the back of the stock thermostat case and hot-glue into a smaller case, in which case use Maplins "Vented PSU Enclosure 8" (Code: N10KH) - 151 x 71.5 x 45. It will all fit in the latter (at a squeeze) and not take up a great deal more space than the stock thermostat case. You may need to drill additional vent holes with that case. With both cases you'll need to modify or block off one end designed to takes a mains socket. However you do it, draw a small map of internal connections for reference and keep it folded up inside the case.

Just bear in mind that there will be a lot of neat drilling and cutting required - not for your average DIY bod. Remember case must be well vented or it won't sense interior temperature!

[[File:mapolcases.jpg]]

An LED that is easy to see at a distance when the heater is actuated by the remote is a must. The main reason is that when the heater thermostat switches the burner off when optimum temperature is reached, normally the fan only will kick in as part of the cool-down process (independent of rocker OR remote). When this happens, the remote won't have any effect and you have to look at the thermostat's own on/off LED to determine if remote action is on or off. Thats fine if thermostat can be easily seen but when it can't, you'll lose track of whether you're on or off.

A more prominent light is therefore advised. Maplins do what they call an alarm LED - basically a flashing red LED that you can run direct to any 12v source. You could simply run from from the 'on' light on the thermostat but thinking about it, you don't want a bright light flashing in your camper every single time the heater is on, so I would suggest that this is wired at the remote receiver instead. That way it won't flash when you switch the heater on from inside but it will if fired up via remote. Ghost123UK and I discussed the LED and he (rightly) suggested it actually take its power from the relay coil in the remote receiver - that makes a lot of sense since it would be unaffected by the rocker switch and will supply the 12v needed for flashing LED.

This video, whilst not the same remote board, gives you a better understanding of how they work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOW0LlWaL5c and how you can change the remote code if you want to.

==Forum links==

Propex Burn-out (check your earths!): http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=138206

A wiki "Discussion section" on: "How well does a Proipex 1600 heat a camper van" - http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Talk:Camping_Interior_Propex

Search Tech Questions or Tech Archive

See club website - 'Other stuff' for manuals

Camping Interior Propex

2015-01-18T10:26:36Z

Ghost123uk: /* Forum links */

==Specifications==

===1.8 KW Propex===
ECONOMY

[http://www.marcleleisure.co.uk/store/product_print.php?products_id=4187&osCsid=8d3c95b6cb7ff1316af304115558603f These are the specs for a modern Propex:]

Gas consumption for a Propex Space Heater HS2000 - Single outlet - 12 volt (calculated on a continuous running basis) as follows :-

Average gas consumption 128grams/hour 
3.9kg propane cylinder 30.5hrs 
4.5kg butane 35.0hrs 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Heat input 1.8KW 
Heat output 1.6KW 
Voltage 12V or 24V 
Current consumption 1.2A cont. running 
Air throughput 50 C.F.M.

Propex support info: http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/support

Propex 1600 Compact: http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/pdf/compact

----

==Contact Propex==

[[Image:Propex-label.JPG]]

==Propex Heater Use==

Yes, you can safely use your Propex while driving (whoopee) but always turn it off before you drive into a petrol station. Get the heater checked by Propex if you have issues you can't solve easily. Turn it on at least once a month (even in the Summer) to make sure it is fully functional - they hate being left.

==Hard Starting==

'''Anon:''' Unfortunately, it refused to light. I could hear the sound of the ignition trying to fire up but no warm air. Everything else works fine i.e. the fridge and the hob but not my heater.
Are they dependent on gas pressure as I am unsure of the amount of gas left in the bottle?
Any ideas before I freeze to death?

'''Hacksawbob''' Propex won't light if pressure is too low, get a refill and try again. Also if your running blue bottle (butane) this doesn't like the cold so wont light. ( Only solution is to warm the bottle (I've heard of people taking it into the shower with them on campsites!) or upgrade to propane (red bottles) you'll need to change the regulator too. I have an autohomes and the red bottle wont stand up in the cupboard so lie it down when not in use and secure it some how for driving.

'''Aidan:''' Modern version needs to be used regularly 'cos there's a secondary passive fan with an optical sensor in the air flow to check the flow is as required, part of interlock for CE approval that old ones didn't have apparantly. If not used the bearing grease in the passive fan goes a bit thick and so when the blower notor blows the fan doesn't spin fast enough to activate the optical sensor so locks out. 
I phoned Propex when this happened to me and the advice was take an airline with nozzle on and blow through the external pipes in the inlet which will spin up the passive fan, after about thirty secs the grease will be redispersed and the thing will then light ok when you go through the normal start. Worked fine for me, I used an old sock to seal the inlet end with the air line blower attachment. 
'''Top tip''' from Propex (and it's in the manual) is run the heater every month, even in the summer just to keep it free running and ready to light when you really need it.

==Propex will not fire up==

The Propex heater supply line MUST be up to the job. Inadequate cable can cause voltage drop and the heater will either not fire up or will not run for long. See:http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=118113

It also won't fire if no gas is present or in the case of blue gas bottles, the temperature is too low. Propane (red bottles) are recommended for all year round use but you can use butane (blue) providing ambient temperature is not too cold. For hardened winter campers or those that like to use their Propex on winter mornings, Propane (red) is the only choice.

==Adjusting Sensitivity==

The Adjuster preset is a hysteresis control which can alter the temperature differential from 4°C to 1/2°C.

To adjust the thermostat, first pull the dial knob off and remove case by undoing the screw beneath the knob.

If you look carefully at the board you should see a small white round component, into which you can insert a tiny screwdriver and turn to adjust. Note its present position for reference. There is a small arrow in the centre to show which way it is adjusted.

For maximum sensitivity turn the preset fully anticlockwise, and for minimum sensitivity turn it clockwise.
The preset is not a linear control and most of the adjustment is toward the anticlockwise endstop.

You don't want it so sensitive that the heater cuts in and out too regularly as it will be less economic to run. Trial and error may be needed to get it just right.

==Testing Propex Heater==

If you need to test a Propex to see if its working (ie you've got a s/h one) or you think thermostat may be faulty, with heater isolated connect the red and orange together and connect to 12v +. Connect black to earth or chassis. Ignore the purple wire. If the heater tries to fire then heater probably works. If it doesn't the fault is in the heater or spark generator (black box) and your best bet is to send it to Protex for checks/repairs - its cheaper than a new heater.

==Remote Controlled Propex==

Penned by Covkid

[[File:remoteconx.jpg]]

Why a remote control? A remote control for your Propex is perfect for those days when you're knee-deep in snow or your locks are frozen solid or you want to defrost and not have to scrape windows like everyone else. It works from indoors so no more trips out in the cold to turn your Propex on!

DO remember you take on this project at your own risk. It could invalidate your guarantee and neither I nor 80-90 accept responsibility if you damage your Propex circuitry or anything else.

'''Overview'''

You can ofcourse trigger the 'heating on' circuit in various ways, ie via a tracker and other phone-based systems but then you may be paying to switch your heater on. In addition, too often people wire them into the heater supply line and it won't then go through a normal shut-down routine which would leave the heater case interior far too hot and potentially damage components and/or items close to the heater. Propex added the cool-down cycle for good reasons. This project switches the heater off correctly and uses an RF remote control transmitter (rather than infra-red).

Heres the remote kit type I used (under a fiver): http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=12V+10A+Relay+2CH+Wireless+RF+Remote+Control&_sacat=0 - Single or dual channel is all you need unless you want to control lots of things remotely. It should be rated for at least 10 amps. They all work in a similar way but some have far more relays than you'd ever need. Try to keep it simple.

The Propex control unit is a relatively simple affair - a thermostatic control and a relay to switch the heater/fan load. The thermostat is operated manually by a rocker switch and dial with LED indicators to show present mode of operation. There are two models I know of - this just happens to be mine but principals apply to both. Adding a remote function still allows you to use the control unit manually - or up to several metres away via your remote fob. Manufacturer claims it will operate over a range of 50-100m (open area).

'''Connections'''

Pictured below is the Propex thermostat board removed from its case. You'll need to remove this for the soldering but do draw a diagram of where the original wires went to you can put it back correctly. Later boards have terminal blocks instead of screw/ring connections (see below) but otherwise operate the same.

[[File:Thermorem1.jpg]]

Firstly you'll need to solder a two-core cable off from back of rocker switch to remote receiver (solder points shown here with red spots):

[[File:Thermorem2.jpg]]

This new cable (basically a loop) goes to load side of relay (relevant connectors on green terminal block) on remote receiver shown below. This is actually the only connection needed between thermostat and remote receiver. Essentially all you're doing is copying exactly what the rocker does when you switch the heater to 'heat' or 'off' - but remotely.

[[File:remunit1.jpg]]
''Typical remote control unit''

Wired this way, when you switch off at remote controlled fob, heater will also still go through its normal cool-down cycle (important). The only other cable that needs to go to remote receiver is 12v +- to provide power to it, which you can either take from thermostat itself or another 12v point nearby. The receiver doesn't draw much (most of it is actually 5v on the board) but it needs the full 12v to power the relay.

If your thermostat looks different to mine (ie yours has terminal blocks), with the board out, just put a meter between middle and outer terminals on back of board and check for continuity when you switch to 'heater on' position. Then you know which terminals are the ones you want. Whichever has continuity is the correct side. With it switched the other way, you'll get fan only ofcourse. If this has lost you already, please don't attempt it - get someone who knows what they're doing.

'''Functionality'''

Bear in mind, if you have manually switched heater on (ie via rocker switch), the remote receiver will click away but it will have no effect on heater. The rocker will always overide the remote function. Remote will only work if rocker is in mid-position (ie switched off at thermostat). I'll be stating the obvious to some, but best explained.

It seems to work over quite a distance - certainly from indoors. I found it worked ok from the opposite side of the house. I see no reason why it could't operate over 50-100m in an open area as claimed, but through brick/metal etc, this range will obviously be much less.

I ran long cable (initially) to remote receiver so I could test which position will be best to mount it for optimimum range via remote but window level is ideal.

'''Further Thoughts:'''

Rather than solder to thermostat switch, you could in fact (if you follow circuit tracks - simply connect one wire at screw terminals but it can get a bit cramped then.

You could fit a plug socket in the stock thermostat case (suitably rated) so the remote unit just plugs into it. That way you can unplug it and everything is as it was.

The perfect solution (and where I'm taking this project now) is to remount thermostat board inside a slightly bigger vented project box, along with remote receiver and install a seperate choc-bloc arrangement inside to allow for all the internal connections. It would then be entirely self-contained, lose the connections between thermostat and remote receiver, and only have the stock cable coming out of the box. It seems likely that were Propex to offer a remote facility, thats just how they'd construct it - as a combined unit. You do however need to weigh up the time involved - and whether you possess the skills.

There are a couple of ways to do this. The first would be to take the complete back of the original stock thermostat case with board still attached, and mount inside a larger case as it is. If you'd prefer to do that, I suggest Maplins "Vented PSU Enclosure 9" (Code: N11KH) but its a bigger case at 156 x 88 x 49. The alternative (probably) would be to cut down the edges of the back of the stock thermostat case and hot-glue into a smaller case, in which case use Maplins "Vented PSU Enclosure 8" (Code: N10KH) - 151 x 71.5 x 45. It will all fit in the latter (at a squeeze) and not take up a great deal more space than the stock thermostat case. You may need to drill additional vent holes with that case. With both cases you'll need to modify or block off one end designed to takes a mains socket. However you do it, draw a small map of internal connections for reference and keep it folded up inside the case.

Just bear in mind that there will be a lot of neat drilling and cutting required - not for your average DIY bod. Remember case must be well vented or it won't sense interior temperature!

[[File:mapolcases.jpg]]

An LED that is easy to see at a distance when the heater is actuated by the remote is a must. The main reason is that when the heater thermostat switches the burner off when optimum temperature is reached, normally the fan only will kick in as part of the cool-down process (independent of rocker OR remote). When this happens, the remote won't have any effect and you have to look at the thermostat's own on/off LED to determine if remote action is on or off. Thats fine if thermostat can be easily seen but when it can't, you'll lose track of whether you're on or off.

A more prominent light is therefore advised. Maplins do what they call an alarm LED - basically a flashing red LED that you can run direct to any 12v source. You could simply run from from the 'on' light on the thermostat but thinking about it, you don't want a bright light flashing in your camper every single time the heater is on, so I would suggest that this is wired at the remote receiver instead. That way it won't flash when you switch the heater on from inside but it will if fired up via remote. Ghost123UK and I discussed the LED and he (rightly) suggested it actually take its power from the relay coil in the remote receiver - that makes a lot of sense since it would be unaffected by the rocker switch and will supply the 12v needed for flashing LED.

This video, whilst not the same remote board, gives you a better understanding of how they work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOW0LlWaL5c and how you can change the remote code if you want to.

==Forum links==

Propex Burn-out (check your earths!): http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=138206

A wiki "Discussion section" on: "How well does a Proipex 1600 heat a camper van - http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Talk:Camping_Interior_Propex

Search Tech Questions or Tech Archive

See club website - 'Other stuff' for manuals

Talk:Camping Interior Propex

2015-01-18T10:24:51Z

Ghost123uk: Re how well does a Propex 1600 heat a camper van

Re how well does a Propex 1600 heat a camper van. The following are some observations I made on a very cold nights camp over:-

A few days ago I went to visit a friend who is staying at a village pub about 5 miles away. It was a very cold, freezing temperatures type of night, and it snowed. I had planned to have a few "scoops" with him and to stay over in the van (Tin-Top). At about 11pm I switched the Propex on to pre warm the van. At about 12:30pm I decided to retire for the night. I was quite surprised at how cold the van still was after 90 minutes of heating, with the stat on full blast (ie not switching off at all). I was fine once wrapped up in the duvet, but it set me thinking...

These Propex 1600 units take air in from inside the van, so on first switching on they are warming air that is, under those conditions, likely to be a bit below freezing point, then, as the van warms up, they are taking air in that is getting gradually warmer, and so the cycle continues, getting more efficient as the air in the van warms up.

The upshot of this is that, in very cold conditions, it takes quite a long time for 1600 Watts of heat to warm a very cold van (even longer for a Hi-Top and even longer again for a Pop-Top).

I suppose some of those solver insulated window covers would help, I do have some, but had not bothered to stick them up

Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement

2014-12-20T10:17:18Z

Ghost123uk: /* Further Help (and you don't always have to replace it!) */

==Blower Motor Dead - Fault Diagnosis==

From CovKid:

Firstly, go grab your Haynes manual and turn to 12.38 - (wiring diagrams) - its towards the back.

See V2 bottom left? thats your blower motor, and as complicated as yours may seem to be, its just a bigger version of those tiny motors you wired up to a PP3 battery as a kid.

The wire below it is the earth (brown). Just above the motor there are two other wires that connect to it, but further up there are three that come out of E9 (the fresh air/heater blower switch) - the three wires for the three different speeds. By default the motor runs full pelt so they added resistors (N23) to slow it down for the two other speeds (in fact you could make it a 4 speed with a few mods but hardly worth it). If you read my answer and look at the diagram carefully, it should all make sense.

Basically these are the three speeds and the wires are coloured thus:

1) ge (stands for yellow and motor would be flat out)

2) ge/sw (yellow and black - motor at medium speed)- power now going through one resistor

3) ws (white - motor at slowest speed) - power now going through TWO resistors

As long as the motor is earthed, and it should be in situ, apply 12v to the yellow wire first and see if it responds. In theory it should go flat out, then apply 12v to yellow & black and finally white for the lower speeds. Motor could have a bad earth, could be seized, or stone dead but above should help you discover whats going on. If it works on yellow but not on one or more of the others, the resistors are probably cooked or shot.

==Removing dash to get to heater box==

To get to the heater box, you need to take column cowls off, remove steering wheel.

Remove 2 shear bolts at top of column. (Use mole grips)

'''EDIT''' by '''ghost123uk''' = This is a pic (courtesy of '''Midge''') of the end of the shear bolt. A chisel can be used to start it moving.

[[File:Shear_bolt_2.jpg]]

Remove 2 M8 (13mm) bolts lower down column.
Lay column on drivers seat, no need to unplug!

Gently pry off heater knobs and fan switch.
Very carefully pry off heater facia, two plastic plugs tend to break very easily!!
Remove 2 screws behind that hold controls to dash.

Pull off plastic cover over dash unplug all switches, unclip dash plug, undo speedo cable.

Remove dash console.

Undo screw to left hand side of hole that holds heater controls in.

Take glove box down.

Undo smaller screws along the front of the dash, but don't undo the bigger ones they are for the wipers.

Undo screws at side of dash that hold it to pillars..

Find red/black wire that goes from heater switch into loom and snip it.
Follow brown wire from heater to behind fuse box, remove said wire from earth spider and pull free from loom.

Take front grille off and undo 2 Phillips head screws just above radiator, identified by large washers for size of screw!

Pull off plastic heater cover panel.

Clamp water pipes where they exit the floor, undo water pipes from heater box.

Undo all plastic heater hoses.

There's 4 number 3 Phillips screws that hold the heater box in, one in each corner, the one at the bottom right is the hardest as its hidden by one of the water pipes and it also has a clamp around it.

Heater box should now come free.

==Removing dash to get to heater box 2==

(from ermie571)

1)Disconnect battery
2)Remove Dash as follows:

Undo the LITTLE screws in front of the dash (or your windscreen wipers will fall off!! ok, the motors will...) Couldn't do it by hand, but the electric screwdriver did the job well. Remove anything mounted on the dash, and the assorted tat that gathers there!

Strip the cowling from the instrument panel and remove the instrument panel as well. Remember the fun you had putting the stereo in...well take it out - you get to put it back later! Now the heater control panel and sliders....pull the 3 or four plastic knobs towards you....they come off, honest. Then the switch itself...pull off the bit you turn. Right, with a small screw driver, slowly prise off the cover, bottom left and top right. Slowly slowly here. The three screws (poss 2) to release the slider gubbins from the dash.

Got a cigarette lighter....remove the connections. Remove the glove box. Hand underneath at each end, pull off the two air hoses. 2 screws or bolts on the pillar on either side...remove and the dash should now come away. Sorry - missed a bit....the bolts that hold the steering column on. Right - these are special sheer bolts....but we were able to remove and reuse, but you do need decent mole grips, and attack the bolt at the one straight part of the bolt. You don't have to take the steering wheel off....but it did give a little more space to work in.

this is what is revealed under the dash:

[[Image:dashdes1.jpg]]

2. Remove the fan heater unit....screws and bolts all over the place. Remove the front grill (yep fixes in from the front too!). IF you have clips around the heater unit, unclip and seperate the box. If not....and we didn't in Ritchie you are going to have real fun working your way around with a small screw driver to get into the thing. PS - you will need some silicone sealant to stick it back together!! Once its unbolted and you are in you get this....

[[Image:dashdes2.jpg]]

that skinny thing on the bottom right is the resistor that controls the speeds apparently!

3. Oil the bearings. Right in the middle of the picture is the fan. you can see the first bearign you need to oil - its that brown spot in the middle of the fan. A little bit of WD40 followed by a manual spin of the fan will clean any gunk, then a drop or two of engine oil will lubricate that bearing.

Now look round the other side...
You wlll see a plastic drill with letters on it. Now be brave as you are going to drill next to the letters, aiming towards the centre as the other bearing in lurking beneath:

[[Image:dashdes3.jpg]]

and after drilling (we used a 5mm bit)

[[Image:dashdes4.jpg]]

Now, with a little screwdriver dipped in engine oil, offer some lubricant onto the bearing....

[[Image:dashdes5.jpg]]

Give it a good dose....u don't want to be doing this again next year!!!

Spin the fan...drop more oil on both bearings and you are good to go! It should be silent now!!!

Now, put it all back.....oh - just to mention...when we put the dash back, and were at the putting the instruements back, we both found that the speedo cable had gone walkabout....dunno how, but they were both up in the same place....right up under the windscreen....need little fingers to hook it out. May be worth hooking it round something to stop it wandering off!!

== Further Help (and you don't ''always'' have to replace it!)==

'''Mocki:''' You can "short" past the switch or check the continuity with a meter or battery and bulb with the switch disconnected...

If it is the resistor, or the motor its a dash out job...

Not sure of the resistance of the resistor, but its the same as the dim dip resistor on later vans on the headlights i'm told...

'''Horace83:''' New switch £5 from GSF

'''Miss Marple:''' I'm about to do the 'dash out' thing due to smoke under the dash = heater now not blowing. I have sourced a replacement heater box and have read the wiki, but the wiki only takes you up to removing the box. I'm a bit concerned about what happens after I've reconnected the water hoses... how do I then bleed the system? I'm really determined to do it myself, but I am a learner!

'''CovKid:''' Mine gave a puff of smoke too and blew the fuse every time but once I got in there and gave the motor a spray of WD40, away it went - had heating ever since.

Getting the dash out isn't that difficult once you get going. Takes 30 mins at most. What took me longer was getting the blasted screws out that hold the fan unit against the bulkhead.

Basically they seize through drying out.

'''Miss Marple:''' So, you didn't replace the motor then? I haven't considered that the motor may still work. I haven't replaced the fuse, just thought that as there was a fair amount of smoke the motor would now be dead. So you recommend changing fuse and wd40 before I rip my van to bits???

'''CovKid:''' Well if you had CLOUDS of smoke maybe it IS toast now. Depends. I definately had smoke appear from under the dash yet it still runs and very well at that. Nine times out of ten with apparently dead blowers is that the motor fan assembly is seized solid - long periods of non-use. However, you still have to pull the entire heating unit away from the bulkhead to get to the motor itself. You can then access it from the rear (the bit screwed on to the bulkhead if you see what I mean).

I actually had a replacement unit to go in but guess what - THAT was seized too and WORSE than the one I was intending to remove. Trick I guess (in the longer term) is to switch the fan on periodically to make sure it operates as it should. Whether replacing the unit or lubricating it, you still have to remove dash and pull blower unit forward though

'''Tommy the Cat:''' Just got my blower working had the dash out and the thing has just seized up...loads of wd40 contact cleaner and hey presto..... this is an easy job even for a muppet like me the hard thing is getting the screws out, if they're really bad.

I would do it again and would take half the time as I spent quite a while looking at it rubbing me chin and stressin!!!! Tell you what though it does scare you a bit when you look at the old girl with the dash out and all the wires and all. Just for ref. I cleaned up the earth spider(s) and cleaned up all the other earths as theyv are easy to get to then (mine looked cack)

'''CovKid:''' They ''can'' seize up solid those things. As I say, 9 times out of ten a spray with WD40 and a quick turn by hand is all thats needed - ''providing'' you don't cook it before you get that far.

Yes I agree, it all looks a right state with the dash out but all the awkward jobs can be done whilst its out, like:

1) Relubing wiper mechanism, replacing knackered washer jets if they need doing (some great light-up twins around) and maybe replacing washer pipe. I found a pet shop that had silicon pipe rather than the solid stuff and that worked a treat;

2) tidying up wires or fitting new items;

3) I mounted my front speakers under the dash (a lot easier with it out) and despite being blasted for this on another thread they sound excellent!;

4) check for leaks around the base of your windscreen seal;

5) wire your stereo in properly;

6) set your cold air/heater cables up properly.

Also as an aside, pet shops also stock 'T' pieces that are great for renewing any old ones that feed the air cleaner in the engine bay.

'''Miss Marple:''' This is all sounding very encouraging... So, when the smoke started to appear, the fan had been running fine for ages (we were on a long journey). Would the fan just seize mid use even though it was running very nicely? Would be nice to be able to get the original fan going if indeed it is seized and not burnt out.

'''CovKid:''' No. Seizure is highly unlikely if it had been run very recently.

'''Miss Marple:''' I was advised to WD40 the 4 screws that hold the box on about a week before I intend to attempt it... so I'll do that now so I have time to scratch my head and look at the situation. I'll let you know how I fare

'''CovKid:''' The threads of the four screws emerge (barely) through the front of the bulkhead (behind top of radiator I think) and clearly when the heater box has been in for some 20 odd years moisture tends to rust them. Must confess, mine were a PIG to get out - the ones close to the steering column being the worst!

My view is if you're going to deal with this job (and inevitably we all have to at some point), use the opportunity to deal with all the other things I mentioned. You can also sort out any problems with the dash panel itself like a good clean and touchup - notably along top edge where its screwed down. More importantly perhaps, you'll be able to see what state the bottom of your windscreen seal is in (any leaks).

The shear bolts on the steering column will usually come undone with mole grips by the way (I refitted mine the same way) but you don't need to remove entire column as Haynes described - just drop it out of the way by undoing the upper bolts.

If you have to change the entire heater unit or dismantle it (always possible its totally kaput) then you'll need to disconnect the heater radiator hoses and top-up and rebleed cooling system after. Take the time to ensure the foam seals around orifices on the heater unit are all in good order (we don't want draughts now do we, hot or cold?) and put back properly when you refit unit. You could make up your own if any are shot.

Incidentally, the first time I had experience of a seized unit was in driving rain on the M1. I went to switch the blower on (hadn't had the bus long) and it promptly blew the wiper fuse - doh. It was 6 miles before I found somewhere I could stop to replace the fuse!

I did buy a second hand blower unit (''and incidentally there are subtle differences between earlier and late blowers'') but managed to free off the original as described above, but you can only get to the blower itself through the two holes behind the unit (i.e. back of heater which is facing front of vehicle). Normally a turn by hand and some WD will do it. Haynes say it's possible to open the unit (sourcing new clips for reassembly apparently) but I found I could get to things OK once the unit was pulled back.

''If anyone gets as far as removing the blower itself and finds the brushes are gone, heres a good tip. Try a lawnmower shop for brushes! They have loads in all different sizes and you can usually find a pair that will fit - even if a little rubbing down is required to ensure they do fit. Done this with Beetle wiper motors in the past.''

As far as I know, the blower motor is also common to the following vehicles so may be useful info for scrap pile enthusiasts:

CADDY MK1 Pickup (14) 08.82 - 07.92
GOLF MK1 Hatch (17) 04.74 - 12.85
GOLF MK1 Cabriolet/Cabrio (155) 01.79 -

08.93
JETTA MK1 Saloon (16) 08.78 - 02.84
PASSAT MK1 Hatch/Saloon (32) 05.73 - 07.80
PASSAT MK1 Variant/Estate (33) 05.73 - 10.81
PASSAT MK2 Hatch (32B) 08.80 - 12.88
PASSAT MK2 Saloon (32B) 08.84 - 03.88
PASSAT MK2 Variant/Estate (32B) 08.80 -

06.89
SANTANA Saloon (32B) 08.81 - 12.85
SCIROCCO Hatch MK1(53) 02.74 - 07.80
SCIROCCO Hatch MK2 (53B) 08.80 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK1 Bus/Mini Bus (22, 24, 25, 28)

01.50 - 12.68
TRANSPORTER MK1 Box/Van (21, 23) 01.50 -

12.68
TRANSPORTER MK1 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup (26)

01.50 - 10.70
TRANSPORTER MK2 Bus/Mini Bus 08.67 - 09.79
TRANSPORTER MK2 Box/Van 08.68 - 07.79
TRANSPORTER MK2 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup

08.68 - 07.79
TRANSPORTER MK3 Bus/Mini Bus 05.79 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK3 Box/Van 05.79 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK3 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup

05.79 - 07.92

AUDI
Model Year of construction
from - to
80 Saloon MK1 (80, 82, B1) 05.72 - 07.78
80 Saloon MK2 (81, 85, B2) 08.78 - 08.86
COUPE MK1 (81, 85) 07.80 - 10.88
90 Saloon MK1 (81, 85, B2) 08.84 - 03.87

----------------------------------------------------
Additional from '''ghost123uk'''

Here is some info re the "drill a hole and squirt some grease on the bearing" trick (it usually doesn't work for long though)

I have pic of where you drill the hole. I tried this a few years ago on my van. I drilled 2 holes, one to point a (long) squirty tube attached to my can of aerosol grease through, and another to look through, to see where I was spraying. I also dangled an indicator bulb, with wires soldered to it, down behind the gap that is right at the top of that panel, this helped a lot !! After finishing I simply put some "Gaffer tape" over the holes. It is still safely in place a few years later.

The "fix" only lasted a couple of months though :( - I then bit the bullet and fitted a new heater motor.

Pic = (Not my van = hope the owner of the pic doesn't mind ;))

[[Image:ColinVWT25Heaterfanmod.jpg]]

----------------------------------------------------
'''POSSIBLE MOTOR WIRING REVERSAL ISSUE'''

'''ghost123uk:''' It seems there is a possibility of the wires on the new motor to be confusing re the colour codes. See this re lack of air coming out after a fan replacement, '''nonny112i''' says = ''Turn's out I just needed to reverse the polarity to the motor as it was turning the wrong way (they work great now :D ) I assumed like a muppet that the red coming out of the motor would be the live. Just to give everyone a heads up who's going to do the job check the direction of the motor wired up first before putting it all back!''

------------------------------------------------------

[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws| Removing rusty screws]]

== BLOWER SWITCH REMOVAL ==

(Acknowledgtement to 'Fozzie' for this excellent description of switch removal)

If you can get the radio out easily, it's not necessary to remove the instrument pod to remove the main blower switch.

You can remove the heater controls fascia by pulling it gently forward (to ease out the plastic covered lugs at the back which hold it in place) revealing the switch behind. (You'll need to pull the knob off the fan switch first, but shouldn't need to remove the heater knobs.) Next push in the retaining spring at the right side of the switch (either through the hole where the radio was, or from the top if you removed the instrument pod), and pull the switch towards you. At this point you can separate the switch from the connector block behind it. Note it is a tight fit, and as you do this you tend to lift one or more of the four connection tags - more on this in a moment.

You have 4 tags marked +, I, II and III. On mine a voltmeter (set to measure resistance) showed only one worked as it should.

Use the blade of a small screwdriver to open the lugs and prise the switch apart. At this point the whole thing springs up at you and bits fall on the floor. Well, maybe not you, but that's what happened to me. You should end up with: the switch body; the connector inside which rotates and holds the copper contact mounted on springs; two tiny steel slivers with punched points which hold the splined bit of the rotating connector (to give you that pop-pop-pop feel as you turn the knob); and the cap which holds the tags.

Clean off all the contact points with emery paper (a borrowed emery board worked for me) and smear a tiny bit of petroleum jelly on them.

Now to reassemble... First drop the two steel springs into the locating holes in the switch body, ensuring the raised points are facing each other. This is actually easier than it sounds; a SLIGHTLY magnetic screwdriver helps to fit them. Then drop the rotating connector gently into place between them - it might take a couple of goes. This needs to go the right way round; the side of the copper with a tiny a depression goes nearest to the flat part of the otherwise round body. Finally offer up the cap, rotate to line up the flats on cap and body, and press into place.

Check again with the voltmeter. If one of the contacts seems not to work check whether that tag became raised when you separated the switch. If so use a screwdriver to press it firmly down again (so that it makes proper contact with the rotating connector underneath).

== PRE-85 FUSEBOX MOD - ENSURING WIPERS WORK IF BLOWER KILLS FUSE ==

Heres a tip from member Covkid for those with earlier cartridge rather than blade fuseboxes.

Because the blower and wipers use the same fuse on the these fuseboxes (a daft idea to be honest), any problem with the blower that for whatever reason, pops the fuse, also kills the wipers. Likewise the wipers could take out the blower. This can be a safety issue. I've mentioned before on here that I once had it happen on a busy motorway leaving me with no wipers in torrential rain and it was ''some'' miles before I could find a place to stop and replace the fuse - not good. In my view it was a design flaw.

For this reason, I'd recommend anyone that has the same layout, gives the wiper circuit at least its own independent fuse. I suspect that with an older blower or wiper motor, having two on one fuse is more likely to blow it. Starting a motor always draws more current and simply fitting a bigger fuse doesn't offer the right protection. Heres how to solve it.

If you look at the photo below, the third fuse from the right is the wiper/blower fuse - the one that blows. To ensure that the wipers aren't taken out by the blower in future but still protected by a fuse, disconnect the battery/batteries and unscrew the fusebox retaining screws, carefully lifting it forward so you can see the reverse of the wiper/blower fuse.

[[Image:fusemod.jpg]]

Theres a black/red wire that sits in the middle - this is the wiper circuit supply. pull this spade terminal off, and connect an inline fuse (the sort normally used on car stereos) to this wire (you may need to cut connector off completely to do this) and then connect the other end of the inline fuse to a vacant connector on the power side of the fusebox. I've shown this with a red line in the photo so you know which side of the fuse array has a permanent 12v. Sometimes there isn't a vacant one to be found along this side (VW were not generous with spare ones) and you'll need to join the wire into an existing connector somewhow. This will then provide the wipers with their own fuse. Try an 8amp or 10amp fuse for the inline - should be enough.

Alternatively you could take a feed from the power side of existing fusebox and screw another smaller fusebox under there. That way you can add more dash items with each on its own fuse. For some, that may be a better and tidier solution altogether, but getting the wipers on their own fuse has to be a better idea than the way VW designed it.

As a belt n' braces approach I always use Rain-X on my windscreen so that if my wipers do go AWOL, I can at least continue to drive safely in heavy rain. Anyone who has ever used it will tell you how good it is. You don't actually need wipers once its applied and it lasts around a month before you need a retreatment. A bottle lasts a couple of years I find. Worth thinking about, particularly if you have the earlier un-modified fusebox, but improves visibility enormously in rain either way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1S_Jm_FwM0

==Useful information==

New front heater fan amps draws are approx 1=4A, 2=7A, 3=12A.

[[image:Heater-blower-wiring-diagram.png]]

Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement

2014-12-20T10:14:03Z

Ghost123uk: /* Further Help (and you don't always have to replace it!) */

==Blower Motor Dead - Fault Diagnosis==

From CovKid:

Firstly, go grab your Haynes manual and turn to 12.38 - (wiring diagrams) - its towards the back.

See V2 bottom left? thats your blower motor, and as complicated as yours may seem to be, its just a bigger version of those tiny motors you wired up to a PP3 battery as a kid.

The wire below it is the earth (brown). Just above the motor there are two other wires that connect to it, but further up there are three that come out of E9 (the fresh air/heater blower switch) - the three wires for the three different speeds. By default the motor runs full pelt so they added resistors (N23) to slow it down for the two other speeds (in fact you could make it a 4 speed with a few mods but hardly worth it). If you read my answer and look at the diagram carefully, it should all make sense.

Basically these are the three speeds and the wires are coloured thus:

1) ge (stands for yellow and motor would be flat out)

2) ge/sw (yellow and black - motor at medium speed)- power now going through one resistor

3) ws (white - motor at slowest speed) - power now going through TWO resistors

As long as the motor is earthed, and it should be in situ, apply 12v to the yellow wire first and see if it responds. In theory it should go flat out, then apply 12v to yellow & black and finally white for the lower speeds. Motor could have a bad earth, could be seized, or stone dead but above should help you discover whats going on. If it works on yellow but not on one or more of the others, the resistors are probably cooked or shot.

==Removing dash to get to heater box==

To get to the heater box, you need to take column cowls off, remove steering wheel.

Remove 2 shear bolts at top of column. (Use mole grips)

'''EDIT''' by '''ghost123uk''' = This is a pic (courtesy of '''Midge''') of the end of the shear bolt. A chisel can be used to start it moving.

[[File:Shear_bolt_2.jpg]]

Remove 2 M8 (13mm) bolts lower down column.
Lay column on drivers seat, no need to unplug!

Gently pry off heater knobs and fan switch.
Very carefully pry off heater facia, two plastic plugs tend to break very easily!!
Remove 2 screws behind that hold controls to dash.

Pull off plastic cover over dash unplug all switches, unclip dash plug, undo speedo cable.

Remove dash console.

Undo screw to left hand side of hole that holds heater controls in.

Take glove box down.

Undo smaller screws along the front of the dash, but don't undo the bigger ones they are for the wipers.

Undo screws at side of dash that hold it to pillars..

Find red/black wire that goes from heater switch into loom and snip it.
Follow brown wire from heater to behind fuse box, remove said wire from earth spider and pull free from loom.

Take front grille off and undo 2 Phillips head screws just above radiator, identified by large washers for size of screw!

Pull off plastic heater cover panel.

Clamp water pipes where they exit the floor, undo water pipes from heater box.

Undo all plastic heater hoses.

There's 4 number 3 Phillips screws that hold the heater box in, one in each corner, the one at the bottom right is the hardest as its hidden by one of the water pipes and it also has a clamp around it.

Heater box should now come free.

==Removing dash to get to heater box 2==

(from ermie571)

1)Disconnect battery
2)Remove Dash as follows:

Undo the LITTLE screws in front of the dash (or your windscreen wipers will fall off!! ok, the motors will...) Couldn't do it by hand, but the electric screwdriver did the job well. Remove anything mounted on the dash, and the assorted tat that gathers there!

Strip the cowling from the instrument panel and remove the instrument panel as well. Remember the fun you had putting the stereo in...well take it out - you get to put it back later! Now the heater control panel and sliders....pull the 3 or four plastic knobs towards you....they come off, honest. Then the switch itself...pull off the bit you turn. Right, with a small screw driver, slowly prise off the cover, bottom left and top right. Slowly slowly here. The three screws (poss 2) to release the slider gubbins from the dash.

Got a cigarette lighter....remove the connections. Remove the glove box. Hand underneath at each end, pull off the two air hoses. 2 screws or bolts on the pillar on either side...remove and the dash should now come away. Sorry - missed a bit....the bolts that hold the steering column on. Right - these are special sheer bolts....but we were able to remove and reuse, but you do need decent mole grips, and attack the bolt at the one straight part of the bolt. You don't have to take the steering wheel off....but it did give a little more space to work in.

this is what is revealed under the dash:

[[Image:dashdes1.jpg]]

2. Remove the fan heater unit....screws and bolts all over the place. Remove the front grill (yep fixes in from the front too!). IF you have clips around the heater unit, unclip and seperate the box. If not....and we didn't in Ritchie you are going to have real fun working your way around with a small screw driver to get into the thing. PS - you will need some silicone sealant to stick it back together!! Once its unbolted and you are in you get this....

[[Image:dashdes2.jpg]]

that skinny thing on the bottom right is the resistor that controls the speeds apparently!

3. Oil the bearings. Right in the middle of the picture is the fan. you can see the first bearign you need to oil - its that brown spot in the middle of the fan. A little bit of WD40 followed by a manual spin of the fan will clean any gunk, then a drop or two of engine oil will lubricate that bearing.

Now look round the other side...
You wlll see a plastic drill with letters on it. Now be brave as you are going to drill next to the letters, aiming towards the centre as the other bearing in lurking beneath:

[[Image:dashdes3.jpg]]

and after drilling (we used a 5mm bit)

[[Image:dashdes4.jpg]]

Now, with a little screwdriver dipped in engine oil, offer some lubricant onto the bearing....

[[Image:dashdes5.jpg]]

Give it a good dose....u don't want to be doing this again next year!!!

Spin the fan...drop more oil on both bearings and you are good to go! It should be silent now!!!

Now, put it all back.....oh - just to mention...when we put the dash back, and were at the putting the instruements back, we both found that the speedo cable had gone walkabout....dunno how, but they were both up in the same place....right up under the windscreen....need little fingers to hook it out. May be worth hooking it round something to stop it wandering off!!

== Further Help (and you don't ''always'' have to replace it!)==

'''Mocki:''' You can "short" past the switch or check the continuity with a meter or battery and bulb with the switch disconnected...

If it is the resistor, or the motor its a dash out job...

Not sure of the resistance of the resistor, but its the same as the dim dip resistor on later vans on the headlights i'm told...

'''Horace83:''' New switch £5 from GSF

'''Miss Marple:''' I'm about to do the 'dash out' thing due to smoke under the dash = heater now not blowing. I have sourced a replacement heater box and have read the wiki, but the wiki only takes you up to removing the box. I'm a bit concerned about what happens after I've reconnected the water hoses... how do I then bleed the system? I'm really determined to do it myself, but I am a learner!

'''CovKid:''' Mine gave a puff of smoke too and blew the fuse every time but once I got in there and gave the motor a spray of WD40, away it went - had heating ever since.

Getting the dash out isn't that difficult once you get going. Takes 30 mins at most. What took me longer was getting the blasted screws out that hold the fan unit against the bulkhead.

Basically they seize through drying out.

'''Miss Marple:''' So, you didn't replace the motor then? I haven't considered that the motor may still work. I haven't replaced the fuse, just thought that as there was a fair amount of smoke the motor would now be dead. So you recommend changing fuse and wd40 before I rip my van to bits???

'''CovKid:''' Well if you had CLOUDS of smoke maybe it IS toast now. Depends. I definately had smoke appear from under the dash yet it still runs and very well at that. Nine times out of ten with apparently dead blowers is that the motor fan assembly is seized solid - long periods of non-use. However, you still have to pull the entire heating unit away from the bulkhead to get to the motor itself. You can then access it from the rear (the bit screwed on to the bulkhead if you see what I mean).

I actually had a replacement unit to go in but guess what - THAT was seized too and WORSE than the one I was intending to remove. Trick I guess (in the longer term) is to switch the fan on periodically to make sure it operates as it should. Whether replacing the unit or lubricating it, you still have to remove dash and pull blower unit forward though

'''Tommy the Cat:''' Just got my blower working had the dash out and the thing has just seized up...loads of wd40 contact cleaner and hey presto..... this is an easy job even for a muppet like me the hard thing is getting the screws out, if they're really bad.

I would do it again and would take half the time as I spent quite a while looking at it rubbing me chin and stressin!!!! Tell you what though it does scare you a bit when you look at the old girl with the dash out and all the wires and all. Just for ref. I cleaned up the earth spider(s) and cleaned up all the other earths as theyv are easy to get to then (mine looked cack)

'''CovKid:''' They ''can'' seize up solid those things. As I say, 9 times out of ten a spray with WD40 and a quick turn by hand is all thats needed - ''providing'' you don't cook it before you get that far.

Yes I agree, it all looks a right state with the dash out but all the awkward jobs can be done whilst its out, like:

1) Relubing wiper mechanism, replacing knackered washer jets if they need doing (some great light-up twins around) and maybe replacing washer pipe. I found a pet shop that had silicon pipe rather than the solid stuff and that worked a treat;

2) tidying up wires or fitting new items;

3) I mounted my front speakers under the dash (a lot easier with it out) and despite being blasted for this on another thread they sound excellent!;

4) check for leaks around the base of your windscreen seal;

5) wire your stereo in properly;

6) set your cold air/heater cables up properly.

Also as an aside, pet shops also stock 'T' pieces that are great for renewing any old ones that feed the air cleaner in the engine bay.

'''Miss Marple:''' This is all sounding very encouraging... So, when the smoke started to appear, the fan had been running fine for ages (we were on a long journey). Would the fan just seize mid use even though it was running very nicely? Would be nice to be able to get the original fan going if indeed it is seized and not burnt out.

'''CovKid:''' No. Seizure is highly unlikely if it had been run very recently.

'''Miss Marple:''' I was advised to WD40 the 4 screws that hold the box on about a week before I intend to attempt it... so I'll do that now so I have time to scratch my head and look at the situation. I'll let you know how I fare

'''CovKid:''' The threads of the four screws emerge (barely) through the front of the bulkhead (behind top of radiator I think) and clearly when the heater box has been in for some 20 odd years moisture tends to rust them. Must confess, mine were a PIG to get out - the ones close to the steering column being the worst!

My view is if you're going to deal with this job (and inevitably we all have to at some point), use the opportunity to deal with all the other things I mentioned. You can also sort out any problems with the dash panel itself like a good clean and touchup - notably along top edge where its screwed down. More importantly perhaps, you'll be able to see what state the bottom of your windscreen seal is in (any leaks).

The shear bolts on the steering column will usually come undone with mole grips by the way (I refitted mine the same way) but you don't need to remove entire column as Haynes described - just drop it out of the way by undoing the upper bolts.

If you have to change the entire heater unit or dismantle it (always possible its totally kaput) then you'll need to disconnect the heater radiator hoses and top-up and rebleed cooling system after. Take the time to ensure the foam seals around orifices on the heater unit are all in good order (we don't want draughts now do we, hot or cold?) and put back properly when you refit unit. You could make up your own if any are shot.

Incidentally, the first time I had experience of a seized unit was in driving rain on the M1. I went to switch the blower on (hadn't had the bus long) and it promptly blew the wiper fuse - doh. It was 6 miles before I found somewhere I could stop to replace the fuse!

I did buy a second hand blower unit (''and incidentally there are subtle differences between earlier and late blowers'') but managed to free off the original as described above, but you can only get to the blower itself through the two holes behind the unit (i.e. back of heater which is facing front of vehicle). Normally a turn by hand and some WD will do it. Haynes say it's possible to open the unit (sourcing new clips for reassembly apparently) but I found I could get to things OK once the unit was pulled back.

''If anyone gets as far as removing the blower itself and finds the brushes are gone, heres a good tip. Try a lawnmower shop for brushes! They have loads in all different sizes and you can usually find a pair that will fit - even if a little rubbing down is required to ensure they do fit. Done this with Beetle wiper motors in the past.''

As far as I know, the blower motor is also common to the following vehicles so may be useful info for scrap pile enthusiasts:

CADDY MK1 Pickup (14) 08.82 - 07.92
GOLF MK1 Hatch (17) 04.74 - 12.85
GOLF MK1 Cabriolet/Cabrio (155) 01.79 -

08.93
JETTA MK1 Saloon (16) 08.78 - 02.84
PASSAT MK1 Hatch/Saloon (32) 05.73 - 07.80
PASSAT MK1 Variant/Estate (33) 05.73 - 10.81
PASSAT MK2 Hatch (32B) 08.80 - 12.88
PASSAT MK2 Saloon (32B) 08.84 - 03.88
PASSAT MK2 Variant/Estate (32B) 08.80 -

06.89
SANTANA Saloon (32B) 08.81 - 12.85
SCIROCCO Hatch MK1(53) 02.74 - 07.80
SCIROCCO Hatch MK2 (53B) 08.80 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK1 Bus/Mini Bus (22, 24, 25, 28)

01.50 - 12.68
TRANSPORTER MK1 Box/Van (21, 23) 01.50 -

12.68
TRANSPORTER MK1 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup (26)

01.50 - 10.70
TRANSPORTER MK2 Bus/Mini Bus 08.67 - 09.79
TRANSPORTER MK2 Box/Van 08.68 - 07.79
TRANSPORTER MK2 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup

08.68 - 07.79
TRANSPORTER MK3 Bus/Mini Bus 05.79 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK3 Box/Van 05.79 - 07.92
TRANSPORTER MK3 Flatbed / Chassis/Pickup

05.79 - 07.92

AUDI
Model Year of construction
from - to
80 Saloon MK1 (80, 82, B1) 05.72 - 07.78
80 Saloon MK2 (81, 85, B2) 08.78 - 08.86
COUPE MK1 (81, 85) 07.80 - 10.88
90 Saloon MK1 (81, 85, B2) 08.84 - 03.87

----------------------------------------------------
Additional from '''ghost123uk'''

Here is some info re the "drill a hole and squirt some grease on the bearing" trick (it usually doesn't work for long though)

I have pic of where you drill the hole. I tried this a few years ago on my van. I drilled 2 holes, one to point a (long) squirty tube attached to my can of aerosol grease through, and another to look through, to see where I was spraying. I also dangled an indicator bulb, with wires soldered to it, down behind the gap that is right at the top of that panel, this helped a lot !! After finishing I simply put some "Gaffer tape" over the holes. It is still safely in place a few years later.

The "fix" only lasted a couple of months though :( - I then bit the bullet and fitted a new heater motor.

Pic = (Not my van = hope the owner of the pic doesn't mind ;))

http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/images/ColinVWT25Heaterfanmod.jpg

----------------------------------------------------
'''POSSIBLE MOTOR WIRING REVERSAL ISSUE'''

'''ghost123uk:''' It seems there is a possibility of the wires on the new motor to be confusing re the colour codes. See this re lack of air coming out after a fan replacement, '''nonny112i''' says = ''Turn's out I just needed to reverse the polarity to the motor as it was turning the wrong way (they work great now :D ) I assumed like a muppet that the red coming out of the motor would be the live. Just to give everyone a heads up who's going to do the job check the direction of the motor wired up first before putting it all back!''

------------------------------------------------------

[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws| Removing rusty screws]]

== BLOWER SWITCH REMOVAL ==

(Acknowledgtement to 'Fozzie' for this excellent description of switch removal)

If you can get the radio out easily, it's not necessary to remove the instrument pod to remove the main blower switch.

You can remove the heater controls fascia by pulling it gently forward (to ease out the plastic covered lugs at the back which hold it in place) revealing the switch behind. (You'll need to pull the knob off the fan switch first, but shouldn't need to remove the heater knobs.) Next push in the retaining spring at the right side of the switch (either through the hole where the radio was, or from the top if you removed the instrument pod), and pull the switch towards you. At this point you can separate the switch from the connector block behind it. Note it is a tight fit, and as you do this you tend to lift one or more of the four connection tags - more on this in a moment.

You have 4 tags marked +, I, II and III. On mine a voltmeter (set to measure resistance) showed only one worked as it should.

Use the blade of a small screwdriver to open the lugs and prise the switch apart. At this point the whole thing springs up at you and bits fall on the floor. Well, maybe not you, but that's what happened to me. You should end up with: the switch body; the connector inside which rotates and holds the copper contact mounted on springs; two tiny steel slivers with punched points which hold the splined bit of the rotating connector (to give you that pop-pop-pop feel as you turn the knob); and the cap which holds the tags.

Clean off all the contact points with emery paper (a borrowed emery board worked for me) and smear a tiny bit of petroleum jelly on them.

Now to reassemble... First drop the two steel springs into the locating holes in the switch body, ensuring the raised points are facing each other. This is actually easier than it sounds; a SLIGHTLY magnetic screwdriver helps to fit them. Then drop the rotating connector gently into place between them - it might take a couple of goes. This needs to go the right way round; the side of the copper with a tiny a depression goes nearest to the flat part of the otherwise round body. Finally offer up the cap, rotate to line up the flats on cap and body, and press into place.

Check again with the voltmeter. If one of the contacts seems not to work check whether that tag became raised when you separated the switch. If so use a screwdriver to press it firmly down again (so that it makes proper contact with the rotating connector underneath).

== PRE-85 FUSEBOX MOD - ENSURING WIPERS WORK IF BLOWER KILLS FUSE ==

Heres a tip from member Covkid for those with earlier cartridge rather than blade fuseboxes.

Because the blower and wipers use the same fuse on the these fuseboxes (a daft idea to be honest), any problem with the blower that for whatever reason, pops the fuse, also kills the wipers. Likewise the wipers could take out the blower. This can be a safety issue. I've mentioned before on here that I once had it happen on a busy motorway leaving me with no wipers in torrential rain and it was ''some'' miles before I could find a place to stop and replace the fuse - not good. In my view it was a design flaw.

For this reason, I'd recommend anyone that has the same layout, gives the wiper circuit at least its own independent fuse. I suspect that with an older blower or wiper motor, having two on one fuse is more likely to blow it. Starting a motor always draws more current and simply fitting a bigger fuse doesn't offer the right protection. Heres how to solve it.

If you look at the photo below, the third fuse from the right is the wiper/blower fuse - the one that blows. To ensure that the wipers aren't taken out by the blower in future but still protected by a fuse, disconnect the battery/batteries and unscrew the fusebox retaining screws, carefully lifting it forward so you can see the reverse of the wiper/blower fuse.

[[Image:fusemod.jpg]]

Theres a black/red wire that sits in the middle - this is the wiper circuit supply. pull this spade terminal off, and connect an inline fuse (the sort normally used on car stereos) to this wire (you may need to cut connector off completely to do this) and then connect the other end of the inline fuse to a vacant connector on the power side of the fusebox. I've shown this with a red line in the photo so you know which side of the fuse array has a permanent 12v. Sometimes there isn't a vacant one to be found along this side (VW were not generous with spare ones) and you'll need to join the wire into an existing connector somewhow. This will then provide the wipers with their own fuse. Try an 8amp or 10amp fuse for the inline - should be enough.

Alternatively you could take a feed from the power side of existing fusebox and screw another smaller fusebox under there. That way you can add more dash items with each on its own fuse. For some, that may be a better and tidier solution altogether, but getting the wipers on their own fuse has to be a better idea than the way VW designed it.

As a belt n' braces approach I always use Rain-X on my windscreen so that if my wipers do go AWOL, I can at least continue to drive safely in heavy rain. Anyone who has ever used it will tell you how good it is. You don't actually need wipers once its applied and it lasts around a month before you need a retreatment. A bottle lasts a couple of years I find. Worth thinking about, particularly if you have the earlier un-modified fusebox, but improves visibility enormously in rain either way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1S_Jm_FwM0

==Useful information==

New front heater fan amps draws are approx 1=4A, 2=7A, 3=12A.

[[image:Heater-blower-wiring-diagram.png]]

File:ColinVWT25Heaterfanmod.jpg

2014-12-20T10:08:41Z

Ghost123uk: Where to drill the hole for the "suirt some grease on the heater motor bearing" trick

Where to drill the hole for the "suirt some grease on the heater motor bearing" trick

Garages T25 Specific

2014-08-06T08:32:46Z

Ghost123uk: /* London */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Automerc Service Ltd''' - 83-89 Western Rd, London N22 6US, 020 8340 2966 - http://www.automerc.co.uk/index.php

'''Moonrakers''' (Tim) says "My 'new' T25 has just been with them... It's running perfectly after a top-end rebuild and a new exhaust, and the wasserboxer is no mystery to Joe who's seen plenty in his time" - More on his thread here = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=134339&start=0

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - Anyone know any more T25 competent garages in the Midlands ? (though Campershack ^^^ is worth driving to ! )
- if so pm me (member ghost123uk) the details link to me = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1111

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout

2014-08-02T09:13:44Z

Ghost123uk: /* Pre 1985 Petrol */

==diesel==

1. Clock light Grey blue

2. Main beam warning light blue White

3. Earth black

4.

5. Clock red

6. Coolant temperature gauge yellow red

7. Fuel gauge lilac black

8. Positive feed from ignition switch (15) black

9. Rev Counter green

10. Turn signal warning light blue red

11. Alternator charge blue

12. Oil pressure warning (high0.9 1.4) yellow

13. Oil Pressure warning (low 0.3) blue black

14. Glow period warning lamp white red

---------------------------------------------------------

'''
== Pre 1985 Petrol ==
'''

Added by '''ghost123uk''' = This is a great diagram given to us by 80-90 member '''MidLifeCrisis'''

[[File:VW_T25_pre85_dashboard_pin_outs.jpg]]

== Post 1985 = ==

Pic can be seen in this little link here = [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/techhelp/images/revcounterclockswiring.jpg]

VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout

2014-08-02T09:02:33Z

Ghost123uk: /* diesel */

File:VW T25 pre85 dashboard pin outs.jpg

2014-08-02T08:52:46Z

Ghost123uk: VW_T25_pre85_dashboard_pin_outs.jpg

VW_T25_pre85_dashboard_pin_outs.jpg

Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals

2014-07-07T08:52:36Z

Ghost123uk:

Here is a link to all the Electrolux User Manuals.

[http://www.electrolux-ui.com:8080/master.nsf/SearchFrame?OpenFrameSet Electrolux Manuals]

Willoughby.

'''Edited by Ghost123uk'''
It seems that link ^^^ is now dead but most of the manuals are in the 80-90 "Downloads Section"
See = http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads.html

Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals

2014-07-07T08:51:45Z

Ghost123uk:

Here is a link to all the Electrolux User Manuals.

[http://www.electrolux-ui.com:8080/master.nsf/SearchFrame?OpenFrameSet Electrolux Manuals]

Willoughby.

Seems that link is now dead but most of the manuals are in the 80-90 "Downloads Section" see = http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads.html

Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals

2014-07-07T08:51:24Z

Ghost123uk:

Here is a link to all the Electrolux User Manuals.

[http://www.electrolux-ui.com:8080/master.nsf/SearchFrame?OpenFrameSet Electrolux Manuals]

Willoughby.

Seems that link is now dead but some of the manuals are in the 80-90 "Downloads Section" see = http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads.html

Garages T25 Specific

2014-06-27T07:59:34Z

Ghost123uk: /* Midlands */

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - Anyone know any more T25 competent garages in the Midlands ? (though Campershack ^^^ is worth driving to ! )
- if so pm me (member ghost123uk) the details link to me = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1111

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Garages T25 Specific

2014-06-27T07:54:54Z

Ghost123uk:

==Herts, Bucks, Beds==

'''Gunslinger:''' I use WA in '''Eaton Bray''' near Dunstable, Beds. Wayne is a real old school mechanic and specialises in old VW's especially air cooled. My father in law uses him too and he is very reasonable.

His number is 01525-222223

'''syncrosimon:''' The above Wayne used to work for a guy called Archie, he died about 7 years ago and Wayne set up himself. He has worked on VW's for 20 years that my family have used him. He is a gent, and knows his stuff. I have not used him since Archie died though. When i was into the air cooled scene in the early 1990's people would travel from all over southern England to have work done on their dubs. They know a lot about T25's, as well.

'''chrissiefiddle:''' I wasn't impressed with him, we had him fix a leaky exhaust, and set the timing up, we'd only gone a few miles back towards home when the van started kangaroo jumping all over the place, we went back - he had not put everything back - something in the engine wasn't connected, and so it was rough!
It's not run right since, we have given up going back to him - after 3 attempts! Also not happy with him smoking in the van while sitting in the driving seat, and while removing the carb top !

'''HarryMann:''' Syncrosimon says Archie was a ''hell of character'', maybe Wayne takes after him. Obviously, lots of VW T1,T2 & T3 experience, so you take your chance, but convenient for Dunstable, Tring, Aylesbury region... PS. Eaton Bray is slightly West of Whipsnade, out on the flat-lands.

'''Adam81:''' I'm from Codicote, and the garage I have used for years is David Thomas Garages also in '''Codicote'''. Although I haven't used them with T25's, I have sometime seen a few outside from time to time.

Their phone no is: 01438 820288

'''Clartonly:''' There is a VW specialist in '''Gamlingay''', a little further than Stevenage I know he has only done welding for me so I cannot comment on his T25 knowledg

'''Split61:''' Get in contact with the Herts VW club. They meet at the Cricketers pub in '''Redbourn''', 2nd Tues each month. Ask for Chris Simpson, He used to train VW mechanics when Vw built decent vehicles. Chris is fantastic, if he can't fix it - No one can. Also the club is great, very social and you get discount from a load of traders. I'm not a sales person, My Wife and I were part of the organising commitee, then we moved west!

[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=263244 See that whole thread on Herts garages ]

'''HarryMann:''' Fosters Garage, '''Berkhamsted''', Herts. Excellent engineer/mechanic, maintains several T2's and T3's, as well as almost anything, but always a 50's or 60's classic in there. Good trouble-shooter and only does the job one way - properly!

Recently sent a neighbour with a Bay window exhibiting Vanagon Syndrome there (yes, a US Digijet injected Bay) - long term problem, couldn't trust it far from home - Now fixed!

'''Ghost123uk:''' - DS Motors - Milton Keynes - The Stacey Bushes Trading Centre,
2 Erica Road, Milton Keynes, MK12 6HS - tel 01908 313 885

'''mattk918:''' says = "If you're in the Milton Keynes area then DS Motors (VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat specialists) are good to deal with and do seem to know their stuff. Had a few things done there over the last year or so and they seem good"

==London==
'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mike at Chiswick Car Craft''' - 337-339 Acton Lane - London W3 8NU - 020 8992 3174 - http://www.chiswickcarcraft.co.uk/

'''TravellingChick (Sarah)''' says "Mike there is great and I'm so pleased PRD put me onto him = TOP CHAP"

==West Country==

===Devon===

(Dave ) '''Futbus Ltd.''' take on a wide range of T25/T3/Syncro specific work and have a very good understanding of the vehicles. 
They produce a wide range of custom parts and engineered solutions, for all T25s as well as their particular Syncro interests One speciality is brake kits, for T2s as well as T3s 
If you require references or sight of previous work, take a look at their website or email and just ask :-

Contact Details:

'''Futbus Limited''' 
07866 581136 
www.futbus.com 
247engineering@googlemail.com 

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brixham Garage in Paignton''' - Lower Yalberton Rd - Paignton, TQ4 7PJ - 01803 528 588

Recommended by 80-90 member '''swillicott''' who had his DG engine re-built by them.
(it did cost £1800 though [shock] )

'''swillicott''' says = ''Yes, very happy with them . They went out of their way to take on my project when they were busy and have been very helpful and patient with parts.''

==Yorkshire==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Brickwerks near Huddersfield''' - SJ Baxter Motor Engineers - Units 9 + 10 - Bridge Works - Woodhead road - Honley - Holmfirth - HD9 6PW - 01484 664017

So good they are usually booked up weeks ahead !! - Sells TOP QUALITY parts -

==Midlands==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''In Lincolnshire = The Campershack''', Main Street, Hougham, near Grantham, NG32 2JD Tel: 07813 324365 Website: http://www.thecampershack.co.uk/index.html Email: andrew@thecampershack.co.uk

They do most mechanical jobs on T25's of all types and do very good LPG conversions. They are used by many on the forum and, like many of those, I am happy to drive a fair old distance to them as I know they can be relied on to do a "proper" job with no B.S. !

'''Ghost123uk :''' - Anyone know any more T25 competent garages in the Midlands ?
- if so pm me (member ghost123uk) the details link to me = http://forum.club8090.co.uk/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1111

==Worcs, Gloucs & Herefordshire==

'''8ball:''' Edwyn @ Bromyard VW

Esp. Pierburg carb refurbs

==Northampton==

'''Ghost123uk :'''

'''Northantsandy :''' has recommended '''Carry on Campers''' - he says ''He does everything apart from major engine repairs. I recently had a full service, filters,HT leads, both oil changes, plugs, cleaned the brakes, stopped BOD with new switch, checked all fuel lines and other bits; price was £180 which I thought was pretty good. tel = 07725964683''

==N.East==

'''Ghost123uk :''' 80-90 Member, Mobile Mechanic, "toomanytoys"
Location = Between Boston and Spalding in South Lincolnshire
Can travel to you, if there is a drive/area etc to work on. will not work on public carparks/highway etc.. - Email = toomanytoys@wanadoo.fr

==N.West==

'''Gasure.UK''' - 8 Brymau Four Trading Est, River La, Saltney, Chester, CH4 8RF - 01244 659740 Opening hours at present Tuesday to Saturday 9:00am to 6:00pm, booking is essential as they tend to be months in advance.

Full mechanical and MOT services, LPG conversions, carb refurb and tuning, leisure systems, alarms pretty much anyhthing, we have an ace chap who does bodywork locally and knows his stuff. Website = http://www.gasure.co.uk/

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''A.J Motors - Bolton''' - Stanley Mill Kirkebrok Rd - Bolton - Lancashire - BL3 4JE - 01204 62496

80-90 member "'''Bowton Lad'''" says "''I would recommend Jack at A.J.Motors in Deane, Bolton. He has worked on various vehicles I have owned since 1982 & he always does a good job at a fair price. I have trusted him with my beloved camper on numerous occasions."''

'''Hacksawbob''' Note A J motors would not accept my van for a Cambelt change as "it was too high" to fit into the garage (Westy high top)I got the feeling they weren't that keen to take on the work.

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Flintshire Autogas in Chester''' - Flintshire Autogas Services Ltd
Broughton Mills Rd - Bretton - Chester - CH4 0BY - 01244 661164 - http://www.flintshireautogas.co.uk - These guys are perfectly at home with T25's, including Syncro's (the owner used to have one) - There are not many folk I would trust to work on my van, but these guys can be trusted to do a good honest job. They don't mind you sourcing your own parts either (I get mine from Brickwerks)

==Wales==

'''Mid, S, Wales'''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Bridgend Garage''' - WJ Rees & Son, Bridgend Garage, Llanwrda, Dyfed, SA19 8EH - tele: 01550 777214.

80-90 member "'''AnnyaSB'''" says "''Steve works on Delilah and a couple other T25s in the area as we all as some T2s. He is happy to get stuck in with the not so easy jobs (like my alarm of doom!) as well as the more simple servicing stuff. He likes a challenge so he's an ideal mechanic for our buses He's a great guy, charges very fair prices, and refuses to give up until the problem is solved - what more can I say "''

==Scotland==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Syncronutz''' - ''' - T25 / T3 VW Syncro Specialist - Unit 19, Stable Road Business Park, Shotts - ML7 5BH''' (off the M8 roughly halfway between Edinburgh and Glasgow) ''' Phone = 01501 829 400''' - website '''http://www.syncro-nutz.com/'''

From their website = "'We are a garage based in Scotland, United Kingdom whom specialise in Volkswagen Vans in all their different types: Transporter / Caravelle, Microbus, Bus, Kombi, Doka, Vanagon, T25, T3, Campers (Westfalia, Weinsberg, Devon, LeisureDrive, Poptop, Hightop etc!)

Not only do we work on these VW's, but we drive them on a daily basis as well. In fact, so much is our passion for these VW Syncro Campers that we actually go on away holiday in them as well!

Along with the basic garage services we are also experienced in both TD / TDi conversions and complete resprays. All the necessary to keep your Pride & Joy on the road and looking its best!'".''

==Norfolk==

[http://www.mn-Aircooled.co.uk/Services.htm Mid Norfolk Car Company Swaffham]

'''AngeloEvs:''' No specific recommendation other than VW Aircooled/T25 specialist garage:-

==Surrey & Sussex==

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Tony Heinz''' - '''Carshalton''' - 0208 647 8329

80-90 member '''axeman''' says = "''He is a proper VW mechanic that finished his apprenticeship in about 1973. He does all things mechanical on every thing from the first air cooled VW's to a VR6 Corrado (has worked on both of my T3's) He can arrange welding to a very high standard (which he did on my 1957 beetle, looks like factory job). Not the cheapest at about £40 per hour, but I trust him, phones me if there is a problem and gives me regular updates. He will also let you supply the parts".''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Mick in Ditchling, Sussex''' - tel 07790 796 307 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''fairwynds''' says = ''If anyone needs a very good VW mechanic (and other makes come to that) there is an out of the way workshop in Ditchling, north of Brighton. He spent 20 odd years working for VW on these vans and seems to know his stuff. Reasonable rates too.''

'''Ghost123uk :''' - '''Spannerboy (Simon), Guildford''' - tel 07817 865 722 (full address not known at this time)

80-90 member '''Spannerboy (Simon)''' says = ''I do everything except bodywork, so all engine including conversions, scoobys are my speciality, I do lots of upgrades like I keep braided hoses in stock, lots of powerflex, avo suspension kits, etc. I keep many new and seconhands bits in stock, I hate not having a part..'' '' '''Ghost123uk :''' says = Simon has a good reputation on Club 80-90, many folks have used him and often post back to say THANKS Simon for your help. I note he specialises in Suburu conversions.

==Kent==

Ghost123uk :- '''RKM motortechs in Strood Rochester''' - next to Tesco - Roy - 01634 294464

Club 80-90 member '''ermie571''' Says = ''A general vehicle repair garage, Roy and his team are now advertising VW camper repairs. Roy drives a T25 so is familiar with their quirks, and the costs of repair! I have always found Roy to be extremely helpful, as are his staff. Never had a problem with the work, and although he is an MOT tester, he doesn't test - but takes them to a local commercial place.''

==ETC==

Petrol engines Diagnosing faults

2014-06-17T06:59:24Z

Ghost123uk: /* General advice */

==General advice ==

General engine diagnostics using a vacuum gauge connect gauge on 2.1 to the distributor retard hose that goes to the plenum chamber, (to identify this side has vacuum at idle) [http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using-a-Vacuum-Gauge-for-Engine-Diagnostics/A_2393/article.html]

===Replacing parts===

Is usually part of eliminative diagnostics - but can catch you out. 
'''Aidan:''' Just because parts are new don't assume they are good (lets face it nowadays what, if anything, is made better than it used to be). If anything is changed, especially if it's not because of a fault, '''keep the old part''' to be able to revert if necessary. This applies particularly to engine ignition components e.g. HT leads, rotor arm, etc.

===General approach===
A systematic and analytical aapproach from beginning to end usually pays dividends 
'''HM:''' Try to work logically, and keep notes. Don't make assumptions at an early stage... do the groundwork in systematically eliminating suspected parts, systems and reasons for the problem. 
Always "assumed" is the general good state of the engine internals... sound internally, with +ve evidence (e.g. compression test) must be determined before proceeding to any detailed diagnosis of ancillaries that follows.

Usually, start with fuel and sparks. Fuel usually before sparks, if nothing previously known.

===New owner/new vehicle?===
If the vehicle is new to you, or you haven't owned a T25 before... 
'''HM:''' Don't assume anything about anything... be a pessimist, until you know better. Go back to basics and work forward

==Misfiring/hesitation==

===Ignition causes===
'''Aidan:''' Some may remember Project Caravelle had a problem once upon a time following fitting of new parts during service that he couldn't resolve and ended up throwing in the towel and selling the van at a big loss, then new owner replaced leads with a good old set and it was sorted for a tenner, just because new don't assume they are good, (lets face it nowadays what if anything is made better than it used to be) '''if anything is changed, especially if it's not because of a fault, keep the old to be able to revert if necessary.'''

HT leads, rotor arm, coil, ECU,

===Carburettor causes===
Weak misfire/hesitation
Air leaks anywhere between carb and cylinder (flanges/manifolds, vacuum pipes etc)

Fuel starvation (fuel filter, tank feed blockage, pump failing)

Grossly over fuelling (snatching, bucking, kangarooing) - temp sender/blocked air filter, stuck choke etc

===Injection/ECU/AFM/ISU causes===

[[Petrol engines intermittent 2.1|Vanagon syndrome]] 
[[Petrol engines intermittent 2.1|Lambda sensor (2.1 MV)]] 
[[Petrol engines intermittent 2.1|Temp sensor]] 
[[Petrol engines intermittent 2.1|Idle Stabilisation Valve/ IS control unit]] 
Fuel pressure/fuel press. reg manifold balance feed etc
Over-run throttle stop adjustment (Hesitation)

===Exhaust causes===

Leaks and holes in the standard exhaust system can result in popping back when on the overrun, and slightly weak fuel/air mixtures that may cause hesitation on light throttles. Seriouly open exhausts can cause valve burning or overheating in the longer term, and can require mixture richening/re-jetting up, to get performamnce back and prevent damage. Of the three fuelling types, the injected MVs runnning closed loop (lambda connected) ''should'' stay in tune better.

===Wear/Damage/Age causes===

Burnt exhaust valves

==Stopping==

Fuel starvation (electric pump/ strainer/filter/fuel gauge problem) 
ECU malfunction (heat sensitive) 
[[Petrol engines intermittent 2.1|Vanagon syndrome]] 

==Bad starting==

Starter earthing, +ve feed, solenoid feed /solenoid (stuck/failed) /ignition switch/wiring /starter pinion support bush /bad starter (field/armature etc) 
Flooding (carb, stuck needle valve, punctured float) 
Flooding (injection, T2 sender, ISV) 
No sparks
Ign. timing many degrees out (just rebuilt /dizzie removed/replaced), 90 degrees out

Petrol.. non-start, ''old fuel'', small amount of fuel, no fuel, rotten fuel. Drain and re-fill.
'''NB.''' Even LPGs need 'some' petrol to start ??

==Relevant Tech Advice Forum Archive lnks==

If these links become broken, please inform 8090 Wiki Admins
(they will have been moved to the Tech Archive after the last post is a year old)

[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50660 Kangarooing 2.1 DJ]