VW T25(T3)-Tech - User contributions [en]

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures including release bearing

2018-08-14T15:13:50Z

CovKid: /* Release bearing - fitment */

[[Image:T25_bellhousing_inside_01.jpg]]
<br>
Clutch operating forks, worn, with flats on them, which hinder smooth clutch disengagement<br>
Also can be seen damage to the end of the release bearing guide tube<br>

[[Image:T25_Clutch_Forks_Flats_02.jpg]]

===Release bearing - fitment===

For clarity, here is a video from Covkid showing the correct orientation of the release bearing clips.

https://youtu.be/iuZ-DgnV-WY

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures including release bearing

2018-08-14T15:09:44Z

CovKid: Created page with 'Image:T25_bellhousing_inside_01.jpg <br> Clutch operating forks, worn, with flats on them, which hinder smooth clutch disengagement<br> Also can be seen damage to the end of …'

Main Page

2018-08-14T15:09:21Z

CovKid: /* Manual gearbox specific */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== NEW USERS START HERE, READ THE DISCLAIMER==

'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

'''Club 80-90 Wiki History'''

Started in around 2005 after we moved from an older bulletin board that had been outgrown by the size of the club. A group of long standing club members decided to retain some of the helpful information on the technical pages that would otherwise get lost as the forum was pruned from time to time. Some of the information is basic vehicle mechanics for those that are just starting out. Some is advanced that you will need an extensive toolset to achieve. Some of it you could find in a Hayne's or Bentley manual and sometimes there are fixes that have not been documented and issues that VW had no repair as these vehicles have long since lasted beyond the working life that VW intended them to achieve. This is a collection of postings on 80-90 over the years and has grown to quite a size, some by professional mechanics and some by novices and all levels of knowledge in between. Ultimately it is to be used along side other forums and manuals to give you another viewpoint on how to solve or fix a problem, but usually with a real persons perspective and photographs to help out. It is not meant to be gospel and it is a living work in progress, articles and advice may change as knowledge grows over time. It may be contradictory in parts as different people have different ideas on the best way to perform a procedure. You may need to use some gut instinct and common sense to tell you which way to proceed, there may be a way to do something which hasn't been thought of, or they may be incorrect information which is out of date. The two main wiki editors are HarryMann and Hacksawbob (usernames on Club 80-90) Send a private message to them if you spot something that needs changing. If you have something to add write it up in the Club 80-90 Technical section in the appropriate section and PM an editor to make them aware of it.

------

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting or duplication. Please PM Hacksawbob or HarryMann if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Club 80-90 Wiki en Français==
[[French language pages|French Language pages]]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Some club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights. Please PM HarryMann if you are a seasoned Wiki editor with valuable T3/T25 content to add. Particularly we are looking for those with experience of the early aircooleds, esepcially the carburrettion, ignition and tuning aspects.

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, either due to typos in the internal links, or other reasons)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New or Prospective Owner? =

==* Warnings - Must Read *==
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fire warning - Aircooled - Carb fuel leaks]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings| Gearbox /Transaxle /Diff oil levels]]
*[[Petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Parts quality - Keep old (removed) parts]]

==Guides==
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like? How to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[A newbies buying experience|A newbies buying experience]]

==Tips and tricks and basic servicing==
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions (FAQ)]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance|Gearchange reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving difficult/sloppy gearchange]]
*[[Petrol engines oil change|Petrol engines - Oil & oil changes]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners All engines servicing overview|All engines servicing overview]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines (Watercooled)==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*[[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
*[[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]

*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
**[[petrol engines - Pierburg Choke|Pierburg Choke Mechanism]]

*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1 (incl. Vanagon syndrome)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 MV|2.1 MV specific]]
**[[petrol engines Bad idling 2.1|Bad idling (2.1 DJ)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 ISCU|2.1 ISCU]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out|Removing 2.1 - Other jobs whilst out]]

*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition firing order|Firing order]]
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves|Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems|Vac advance/retard problems]]

*Parts, Pictures, Diagrams and lists etc.
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Inlet Manifold (1.9)|Inlet Manifold (1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Oil breather hose(1.9)|Oil breather hose(1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - petrol Cooling system diagram|petrol Cooling system diagram]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - wbx exhaust stud depth|wbx exhaust stud depth]]

==Petrol Engines (Aircooled)==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Schematic|Schematic parts layout]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|Engine removal]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled - Crankshaft oil seal|Crankshaft oil-seal (photo article, start-to-finish)]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]

*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature|Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|Solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement|Pushrod & tube seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Refitting cylinder heads|Refitting cylinder heads]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cylinder Head Damage|Cylinder head damage]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition Systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Distributors, timing and setting up]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4OmiVH2J0&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIrA4iWkhbE&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 2]
**[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|Spark plugs and HT leads]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Carburrettors and fuel system
**[[Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding]]
**[[Fuel pump - aircooleds|Fuel pump problems]]
**[[Inlet manifolds - aircooleds|Inlet manifolds]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOxxS1EMphU&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 2]

*A/C Petrol engines - Cooling and heating systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled tinware|Aircooled tinware]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating parts]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating description]]

**Hazards
**[[petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fuel leaks]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Modifications
**[[petrol engines aircooled Modifications|A/C Modifications, carbs, distributors, tuning, compatability issues]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Diagnosing faults (petrols)]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|Cylinder nos. and firing order ]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines losing water|Losing water]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines oil emulsifying|Emulsified oil (mayonnaise)]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
* [[Hydraulic lifters explained ]]
* [[petrol engines non-start|Won't start (fuel)]]
*[[petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing|Replacing spigot-shaft bearing]]
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=107122 ]

== Diesel engines ==
[[Image:Diesel engine1copy-1.jpg|thumb|JX turbo Diesel Engine]]
*[[Diesel engines Fire warning|Fire warning]]
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Types, condition diagnosis, Service Bulletins etc]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
*[[Diesel engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Adjusting tappet clearances|Adjusting tappet clearances]]
**[[Diesel Engines Auxiliary drive belts|Auxiliary drive belts]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing Belt_01|Lining-up camshaft and crankshaft]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cyl Head re-fitting|Cylinder head re-fitting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Diesel Engines 1.6 NA CS ring gaps|1.6 NA (CS) ring gaps]]

**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
**[[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Engine Damage|Diesel Engine damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft and timing pulley]]
** [[Parts - Block and pistons|Block and pistons]]
** [[Parts - Intercooler|Intercooler]]

** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]
** [[Parts - Head gasket protrusion|Head gasket protrusion]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - rear|Cyl head instr senders - rear]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - side|Cyl head instr senders - side]]
** [[Parts - JX turbo mounting position|JX turbo mounting position]]

**Diesel Engines - Modified parts
***[[Parts - Modifications - T3 turbo|T3 turbo install]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Standard Engine Mounts|Standard engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mounts|Modified engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - AAZ Non-JX Mods 01|AAZ turbo clearance mods]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Oil cooling|Oil cooling and oil coolers]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Injection pumps|Injection Pumps - Modifying]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended|Engine oils - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting Earths|Reluctant starting earths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes (DOPWS)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dipstick lengths|Dipstick lengths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Engine bay seal|Engine bay seal]]
----

==Exhausts==

*[[Exhausts Systems Petrol|Petrol Exhausts - Early/Late]]
*[[Exhausts Suppliers|Exhaust system suppliers - Part Nos & Stainless Alternatives]]
*[[Exhausts Custom|Custom exhausts]]
*[[Exhausts Rust|Exhaust rust repairs]]
*[[Exhausts Heat Pipe|DG Exhaust Heat transfer pipe]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*[[Diesel - Injectors|Diesel Injectors]]
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plugs - replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]
*[[Diesel - Fuel system Tips and Tricks|Fuel system Tips and Tricks]]
*[[Diesel - Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines| Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines]]

==Petrol==

*Common
**[[Petrol engines Fire warning|#Fire warnings# - fuel lines, tank and filler]]
**[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|#Fuel leaks# - Aircooled]]

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 Fuel hoses|Replacing 1.9 DG Fuel hoses]]
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Air leaks|Carb or manifold air-leaks]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Autochoke|Carb Autochoke setting]]
**[[Fuel system - Runs then dies|Runs then dies]]
**[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36598& Intermitten but very annoying problem (blocked jet?)]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Clearing blocked jets|Clearing blocked jets]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system tank cleaning|Tank Cleaning]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Cap|Filler/filler cap]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Cooling System==

* [[Coolant and Heating Flashing red light on dash|Flashing red low/overheating coolant light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands|Anti-freeze - Brands, specs, dilutions and capacities]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |Main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]
* [[Coolant and Heating running temperatures|Running temperatures]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 1|Replacing original front-to-rear metal pipes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 2|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 2.1]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 3|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 1.9DG]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Instrumentation malfunction|Temp gauge and sender malfunctions]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Testing radiator fan |Testing radiator fan]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Oil cooling|Oil cooling]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Header tank top and up tank|Header tank and top up tank]]

==Heating System==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|
Hot & Cold Air Blower - Diagnosis, Removal, Replacement And Modifications]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Dash blower PWM upgrade|Dash blower PWM upgrade]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Air-cooled heating system|Air-cooled heating system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Heater hoses|Heater hoses]]

*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Excellent article on improving VW a/c insulation & heating system]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic General Info|Automatics - General Information]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Oil|Gearbox oil checking/changing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Parts|Automatic gearbox - Parts and finding them]]

==Manual gearbox specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings|Gearbox ##Warnings##]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures including release bearing|Clutch - pictures including release bearing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|Clutch slave cylinder replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Cutch CVs - Clutch slave-cylinder|Clutch slave-cylinder and pipework]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism|Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gear change reluctance|Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving sloppy g/c & g/c part nos.]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Gear selection process|Gear selection process]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange selection rod pictures and drawings]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel clutch change|Diesel clutch installation considerations]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox type swap|Gearbox type swap (425 & 524)]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket|Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket - Breakage]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox corrosion prevention]]
*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common gearbox i.e. automatic and manual==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|Diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]
*[http://www.rjes.com/html/gearbox_types.html Link to RJES gearbox code chart]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]

----

= VW Electrics (not camper interior specific)=

*Electrical System
** [[VW Electrics fuse box|Main fuse box]]
** [[VW Electrics main cables|Replacing - starter - battery - alternator cable]]
** [[VW Electrics battery to dash|Upgrading power connection to dash]]
** [[Vw Electrics rear lighting wire colours|Rear lighting wire colours]]
** [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
** [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
** [[VW Electrics Diesel battery to starter cable|Diesel battery to starter cable]]
** [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors|Electric wing mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Wiring heated LT Mirrors|Wiring heated LT Mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Brake warning light|Brake warning light]]
** [[VW Electrics Windscreen Wipers|Windscreen wiper functions]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlight Upgrade|Round Headlight Upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Square Headlights|Square Headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight Adjustment|Headlight Adjustment]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternators|Alternators/Generators]]
** [[VW Electrics Ignition Coil|Ignition Coil]]
** [[VW Electrics Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges |Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges]]
** [[VW Electrics rewiring Dashboard multipin connector|Rewiring Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout |Dashboard multipin connector pinout]]
** [[VW Electrics Repairing Dashboard multipin connector|Repairing Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Barrel|Changing Ignition Barrel]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Switch|Changing Ignition Switch]]
** [[VW Electrics Understanding Components|Simple Guide to Electronic components]]

*Troubleshooting
** [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
** [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
** [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
** [http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]

*Upgrades and Modifications
** [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent wipers]]
** [[VW Electrics Upgrading headlights|Upgrading headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlights To Square|Round Headlights To Square]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
** [[VW Electrics Rear fog lights|Rear fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics front fog lights|Front fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control illumination]]
** [[VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade|Dash Fan Control Upgrade)]]
** [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator sizes|Alternator size formula & tutorial]]
** [[VW Electrics LED Number plate light|LED Number plate light]]
** [[VW Electrics 12 volt live feed only when engine running|12 volt live feed only when engine running]]
** [[VW Electrics Stereo feed from both batteries|Stereo feed from both batteries]]
** [[VW Electrics Adding an independent or new horn|Adding an independent or new horn]]
** [[VW Electrics Smooth 12v/5v supply|Smooth 12v/5v supply]]

*Pictures, Diagrams, Lists
**[[Petrol engine wiring|Petrol Engine Wiring]]
**[[Diesel engine wiring|Diesel Engine Wiring]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator 90 Amp Wiring|90 Amp Alternator Wiring]]

----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing control arm bushes | Replacing control arm bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
* [[Steering and suspension Radius-rod and bushes|Radius-rod and bushes]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering|Power steering]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering Universal Joint Replacement|power steering Universal Joint Replacement]]
* [[Steering and suspension Steering shaft joints|Steering shaft joints]]
* [[Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers|Replacing shock absorbers (with Sachs HD)]]
* [[Steering and suspension replace steering rack boot|replace steering rack boot]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=

*[[Wheels and tyres - Tyres|Tyres]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels|Alternative wheels]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and tyres Wheel offset (ET)|Wheel offset (ET) explained ]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Speedometer Cable|Speedometer Cable]]
----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes front caliper replacement|front caliper replacement]]
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]
*[[Brakes Front handbrake cable| Front handbrake cable]]
*[[Brakes Rear handbrake cables| Rear handbrake cables]]
*[[Brakes poor brake performance diagnostics| poor brake performance diagnostics]]
----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

==Painting your van==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Painting |Painting - General]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Roller painting |Rollering Rustoleum - Paint your van for £50]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting|Window removal and refitting]]

==Windscreen==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen Removing|Removing windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen re-fitting|Windscreen re-fitting]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
http://campervanculture.com/2011/05/fitting-vw-t25-vanagon-t3-windscreen/

==Doors==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Doors locks|Door locks and keys]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Tailgate lock|Tailgate lock]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Sliding Door and Parts|Sliding Door and parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Door seals|Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Guide to fitting Cab Door seals|Guide to fitting Cab Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window scrapers |Window scrapers]]

==Leaks==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks| Foot-well leaks]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]

==Insulation==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation|Insulation]]

==Parts==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts|Pictures of parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts DIY|Pictures of DIY parts]]

==Rust==

===General Information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust|Rust and some treatments]]
**[[Areas that rust - General|General list of areas that rust]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting|Electrolytic de-rusting of parts]]
**[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Internal section inspection method e.g. for rust]]

===Specific areas (details, photos, articles, etc)===

**[[Areas that rust - Kitchen panel|Kitchen/fridge body side panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear chassis|Rear chassis]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member and repair]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front panel lower|Front panel lower]]
**[[Areas that rust - Cab step|Cab steps]]
**[[Areas that rust - Inner Sills|Inner Sills]]
**[[Areas that rust - Floor sliding door side|Floor - sliding door side]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front jacking points|Front jacking points]]
**[[Areas that rust - Behind VW underseal|Behind VW underseal]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front seat-belt anchors|Seat-belt anchor plates (front)]]
**[[Areas that rust - Bodypanels rear|Rear wing bodypanels]]
**[[Areas that rust - Offside outer sill|Offside (kitchen) outer sill & panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Window frames|Window frame rust repair]]
**[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173 Seriously rusty van repairs - shows many areas exposed - excellent photo journal]

===Other relevant information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
**[[Techniques - Welding|Techniques - Welding]]
**[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis Cleaning Tools]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/spoiler_fitting.html Fitting a spoiler]
* [https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207546/V796.pdf Rules on number plates]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
*[[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
*[[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|Seatbelt legality]]

==Seats==

*[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
*[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest fitting to rear seats|Headrests - Fitting to rear seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest removing|Headrests - Removing]]

==Headlining/ interior panels==
*[[Interior non camping interior panels|Interior panels]]
*[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]

==Cab Door Armrests==
*[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]

==Dashboard==
*[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
*[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Tailgate==
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate Interior latch opening| Tailgate - Interior latch opening]]

==Multimedia==
*[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

==Other==

= Campers =

==Camping Interior Cupboards, beds, etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]
* [[Camping Interior Cab bunk|Cab bunk]]
* [[Camping Interior rear hatch ventilation|Rear hatch ventilation]]
* [[Camping Interior Removing units|Removing units]]
* [[Camping Interior Useful Westfalia specific sites|Useful Westfalia specific sites]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior - Electrical Safety|Electrical Standards & Safety]]
* [[Camping Interior Westfalia leisure battery charging|Westfalia leisure battery charging]]
* Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams
**[[Camping Interior Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams Holdsworth Villa| Holdsworth Villa]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping Interior TV Installation|Installing a TV]]
* [[Camping Interior Hookup Schemes|Mains Hookup - Schemes and Safety]]
* [[Camping interior Solar power charging systems|Solar power charging systems]]
* [[Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop|Solar panel fitted to a tintop]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries|Facts about auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat|Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units|Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery|Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|Lighting]]

* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]
* [[Camping Interior Towing connections|Towing connections]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Webasto|Webasto]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]
*[[Camping Interior Insulation|Insulation]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge removal|Fridge removal]]
* [[Camping interior fridge servicing/Maintenance|Fridge servicing & maintenance]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Cooking suggestions and recipes]]
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Calor Gas facts]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]

==Gas==
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Gas information]]
----

==Camping Exterior Campers exterior ,roofs, windows, skylights, awnings etc==
* [[Camping Exterior Westfalia|Westfalia]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting pop-top|Fitting a pop-top]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]
* [[Camping Exterior stop the drip |Stop the drip]]
* [[Camping Exterior Hightop side windows |Hightop side windows]]

* [[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]

==Conversions==

*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)|Danbury Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)]]
*[http://www.80-90.co.uk/techhelp/pdfs/Westy.PDF Westy camper plans in pdf format (German) - Thanks to Aberdeenbus]

==Karmann Coachbuilts==

[http://www.vwcampervanblog.com/the-rare-volkswagen-karmann-coachbuilt-camper-van/ The rare Karmann coachbuilt camper van]

[http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/ Volkswagen Karmann Coachbuilts Club]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page| Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9 Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General - Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[[General Fasteners|Fasteners and fastener types]]

*[[General Fastener Materials|Fastener materials & selection]]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]

*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]
*[[General Tyre pressure calc|Tyre pressures - Generic formula]]

* [http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm Torque converter]
* [http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf Zeus tables in pdf format (16.3 Mb)]

* [http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm Std. Imperial thread data (US source)]

==Tools/Sundries/Safety equipment==

===Tools===
*[[General Torque Wrench|Torque Wrench]]
*[[General Rear Brake Adjuster Tool|Brake adjuster tool for rear brakes]]
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Screw/Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General Impact Screwdriver|Impact Screwdriver]]
*[[General Screw extractors|Screw extractors (easiouts)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Thread Chaser|Thread Chaser]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Rivnuts|Rivnuts]]
*[[General Welding equipment|Welding equipment]]
*[[General Spot Blaster|Hobby spot-blaster]]
*[[General Glow-plug spanner|Diesel glow-plug removal spanner]]
*[[General Shelter-tent workshop|Shelter-tent workshop]]
*[[General QMAX hole punch|QMAX hole punch]]
*[[General Pipe spanners|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]
*[[General Underseal chisel|Underseal chisel]]
*[[General Cleco pins|Cleco (Avdel)locating pins]]
*[[General Stainless Wire Brush|Stainless Wire Brushes]]
*[[General Chain wrench|Chain-wrench/Strap wrench/Pipe wrench]]
*[[General Belt finger sander|Belt (finger) sander {powerfile)]]
*[[General HD vacuum cleaner|HD (or industrial) workshop vacuum cleaner]]
*[[General Joggler|Sheet-metal joggler tool]]
*[[General Battery Chargers|Battery chargers]]

===Home made tools===
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device|Brake bleed pressure device]]
*[[General Homemade working light|Cheap working light for inaccessible areas]]
*[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis cleaning tools]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Improvised|Improvised deep-reach welding clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Home-made|Home-made deep-reach G-clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning - Home-made|Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning]]
*[[General Homemade Emergency Welders|Emergency Welders]]

===Sundries===
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]
*[[General Cold Front|Cold Front (welding)]]
*[[General High Temperature finishes|High-temp paints]]
*[[General Anti-corrosion paint|Weld-thru Zinc spray]]
*[[General Rust-busters|Rust-busters and penetrating oils]]
*[[General EZGrip|EZ-Grip fastener head friction drops]]
*[[General Dinitrol Rust-off|Dinitrol (RC900) Rust-off primer (optional Chassis Black overcoating)]]
*[[General Rustoleum paint|Rustoleum Combi-colour paint]]

===Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions===

Safety, Safely & Sagely.

*[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
*[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
*[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
*[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]
*[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]

==Techniques==
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut|Loosening (46mm) rear-hub castle-nut]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding and brazing]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rust|Removing rust using vinegar (from small components)]]
*[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Handy method for inspecting inside sills/sections etc]]

*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
*[http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Hydraulic lifters]
*[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting]]
*[[General Joggler| Joggling (stepping) panels for seam joins]]

*[[Techniques - Sheet steel fabrication|Sheet steel fabrication]]

*[[Techniques - CB radio installation and aerial tuning|CB radio installations and aerial tuning]]

==Technical Information - non vehicle specific ==

===Electrical===

===Mechanical===

===Other===

==Featured Parts==

*[[Parts - Bodywork - Seatbelt anchor plates|Seatbelt anchor nut plates]]

*[[Parts - Turbo pipework - Murray aviation hose clamp|Murray aviation hose clamp]]

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]
*[[Insurance Postcode rating|Postocde rating]]
----

= Breakdown =

*[[breakdown ADAC|ADAC (Deutsche AA)]]
*[[breakdown Adrian Flux|Adrian Flux]]
*[[breakdown AA|AA]]
*[[breakdown Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)|Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)]]
*[[breakdown CIS|CIS (Co-Op Insurance Services)]]
----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]

*Pictures of hard to get to places and bits you don't normally see (also see Rust and Interiors)
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
**[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
**[[T25 Media Library 80-90 films| 80-90 films]]
----

=T25 Camper Manuals, VW manuals, Specifications, Literature, Magazine Articles,=
*[http://www.vanagonauts.com/2.1L-Vanagon-Specs234.htm List of torques and specifications, fluids etc ]
*[http://web.mac.com/gbotter/Club_del_Maggiolino_di_Treviso/VW_Camper_T3_A.html Lots of original brochures on an Italian website]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals /Autosleeper Trident/ Autohomes]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights/dimensions]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals Technical books| Technical books Haynes etc]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/proj/prpics/p93/p93.pdf Wooden toy template, can be modified to look more T25]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Manuals|Where to get manuals]]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php M-Code M-Plate decipher website]

----

=Links & Addresses (Parts, sundries & other useful websites) =

==Parts & sundry Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]
*[[Internet Links Electronic and Electrical Services|Electronic (ECU) and Electrical Services]]
*[http://www.dubdoctors.com/ http://www.dubdoctors.com/]

===Suppliers feedback gleaned from the forum===

*[[Elite VW]]

=Internet links - Other relevant websites=

*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]

*[http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm | MOT testers manual in depth, you can download the manual opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/Special%20Notice%2009-11.pdf | MOT changes for 2012 opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.bradtech.ltd.uk/ |Thetford portaloo spares]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]
*[http://www.jigrah.co.uk/mhpark/Default.htm Hightop-friendly carparks]
*[[Internet Links other T25 and vanagon resources|Other useful T25 and vanagon tech resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club suppliers]]

*[[Westy jokers]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
*[[Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers|Stolen Vehicle registers]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts1994/ukpga_19940033_en_8#pt5-pb1 Criminal justice act Part V relating to trespass powers to remove, may have a relevance to overnight camping]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics] site not active march20111
*[http://www.vwpix.org/eng/ VWPix, Boltze & Co's VW brochure site]
*[http://sbmcc.co.uk/forum/ SBMCC (Self-build Motor Caravanners Club]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN M-Code decoder website(Bottom right, 1979~1991 T3)]

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]

[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks installing Firefox|Installing Firefox]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - Joining the Waze Group|Joining the 80-90 Waze Nav App Group]]

*[[Misc tips and tricks - Windows PC - Fixing problems|Windows PC - Fixing Problems]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying VW parts (UK, Germany and SA]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers - Warning]]
*[[Parts - Non-VW Parts|Non VW parts]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==

*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]

==Performance; Power; Dyno results==
*[[Performance - Dyno results|Dynamometer test results]]
----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

=Garages, Workshops and services=
==T25==
[[Garages T25 Specific|T25 specific garages]]
==General==
[[Garages General Recommended|Recommended general garages]]

[[Garages recomended Non UK|Garages recomended Non UK]]

==Services==
[[Services Recommended|Recommended Services]]

=Health & Safety=
==Common workshop dangers==

*[[H&S Dangerous Gases|Highly Dangerous Gases from common workshop sundries]]

*Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions (From Tools, Techniques & Sundries)

**[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
**[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
**[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
**[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]
**[[General Battery charging Hydrogen gas explosion warnings]]
*Safety - Driving -Roadside repairs - Off-road etc
**[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]

Main Page

2018-08-14T15:08:37Z

CovKid: /* Manual gearbox specific */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== NEW USERS START HERE, READ THE DISCLAIMER==

'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

'''Club 80-90 Wiki History'''

Started in around 2005 after we moved from an older bulletin board that had been outgrown by the size of the club. A group of long standing club members decided to retain some of the helpful information on the technical pages that would otherwise get lost as the forum was pruned from time to time. Some of the information is basic vehicle mechanics for those that are just starting out. Some is advanced that you will need an extensive toolset to achieve. Some of it you could find in a Hayne's or Bentley manual and sometimes there are fixes that have not been documented and issues that VW had no repair as these vehicles have long since lasted beyond the working life that VW intended them to achieve. This is a collection of postings on 80-90 over the years and has grown to quite a size, some by professional mechanics and some by novices and all levels of knowledge in between. Ultimately it is to be used along side other forums and manuals to give you another viewpoint on how to solve or fix a problem, but usually with a real persons perspective and photographs to help out. It is not meant to be gospel and it is a living work in progress, articles and advice may change as knowledge grows over time. It may be contradictory in parts as different people have different ideas on the best way to perform a procedure. You may need to use some gut instinct and common sense to tell you which way to proceed, there may be a way to do something which hasn't been thought of, or they may be incorrect information which is out of date. The two main wiki editors are HarryMann and Hacksawbob (usernames on Club 80-90) Send a private message to them if you spot something that needs changing. If you have something to add write it up in the Club 80-90 Technical section in the appropriate section and PM an editor to make them aware of it.

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Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting or duplication. Please PM Hacksawbob or HarryMann if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Club 80-90 Wiki en Français==
[[French language pages|French Language pages]]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Some club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights. Please PM HarryMann if you are a seasoned Wiki editor with valuable T3/T25 content to add. Particularly we are looking for those with experience of the early aircooleds, esepcially the carburrettion, ignition and tuning aspects.

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, either due to typos in the internal links, or other reasons)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

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= New or Prospective Owner? =

==* Warnings - Must Read *==
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fire warning - Aircooled - Carb fuel leaks]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings| Gearbox /Transaxle /Diff oil levels]]
*[[Petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Parts quality - Keep old (removed) parts]]

==Guides==
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like? How to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[A newbies buying experience|A newbies buying experience]]

==Tips and tricks and basic servicing==
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions (FAQ)]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance|Gearchange reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving difficult/sloppy gearchange]]
*[[Petrol engines oil change|Petrol engines - Oil & oil changes]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners All engines servicing overview|All engines servicing overview]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

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=Engines=
== Petrol engines (Watercooled)==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*[[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
*[[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]

*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
**[[petrol engines - Pierburg Choke|Pierburg Choke Mechanism]]

*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1 (incl. Vanagon syndrome)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 MV|2.1 MV specific]]
**[[petrol engines Bad idling 2.1|Bad idling (2.1 DJ)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 ISCU|2.1 ISCU]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out|Removing 2.1 - Other jobs whilst out]]

*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition firing order|Firing order]]
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves|Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems|Vac advance/retard problems]]

*Parts, Pictures, Diagrams and lists etc.
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Inlet Manifold (1.9)|Inlet Manifold (1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Oil breather hose(1.9)|Oil breather hose(1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - petrol Cooling system diagram|petrol Cooling system diagram]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - wbx exhaust stud depth|wbx exhaust stud depth]]

==Petrol Engines (Aircooled)==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Schematic|Schematic parts layout]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|Engine removal]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled - Crankshaft oil seal|Crankshaft oil-seal (photo article, start-to-finish)]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]

*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature|Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|Solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement|Pushrod & tube seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Refitting cylinder heads|Refitting cylinder heads]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cylinder Head Damage|Cylinder head damage]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition Systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Distributors, timing and setting up]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4OmiVH2J0&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIrA4iWkhbE&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 2]
**[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|Spark plugs and HT leads]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Carburrettors and fuel system
**[[Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding]]
**[[Fuel pump - aircooleds|Fuel pump problems]]
**[[Inlet manifolds - aircooleds|Inlet manifolds]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOxxS1EMphU&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 2]

*A/C Petrol engines - Cooling and heating systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled tinware|Aircooled tinware]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating parts]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating description]]

**Hazards
**[[petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fuel leaks]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Modifications
**[[petrol engines aircooled Modifications|A/C Modifications, carbs, distributors, tuning, compatability issues]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Diagnosing faults (petrols)]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|Cylinder nos. and firing order ]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines losing water|Losing water]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines oil emulsifying|Emulsified oil (mayonnaise)]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
* [[Hydraulic lifters explained ]]
* [[petrol engines non-start|Won't start (fuel)]]
*[[petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing|Replacing spigot-shaft bearing]]
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=107122 ]

== Diesel engines ==
[[Image:Diesel engine1copy-1.jpg|thumb|JX turbo Diesel Engine]]
*[[Diesel engines Fire warning|Fire warning]]
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Types, condition diagnosis, Service Bulletins etc]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
*[[Diesel engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Adjusting tappet clearances|Adjusting tappet clearances]]
**[[Diesel Engines Auxiliary drive belts|Auxiliary drive belts]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing Belt_01|Lining-up camshaft and crankshaft]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cyl Head re-fitting|Cylinder head re-fitting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Diesel Engines 1.6 NA CS ring gaps|1.6 NA (CS) ring gaps]]

**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
**[[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Engine Damage|Diesel Engine damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft and timing pulley]]
** [[Parts - Block and pistons|Block and pistons]]
** [[Parts - Intercooler|Intercooler]]

** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]
** [[Parts - Head gasket protrusion|Head gasket protrusion]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - rear|Cyl head instr senders - rear]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - side|Cyl head instr senders - side]]
** [[Parts - JX turbo mounting position|JX turbo mounting position]]

**Diesel Engines - Modified parts
***[[Parts - Modifications - T3 turbo|T3 turbo install]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Standard Engine Mounts|Standard engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mounts|Modified engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - AAZ Non-JX Mods 01|AAZ turbo clearance mods]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Oil cooling|Oil cooling and oil coolers]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Injection pumps|Injection Pumps - Modifying]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended|Engine oils - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting Earths|Reluctant starting earths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes (DOPWS)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dipstick lengths|Dipstick lengths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Engine bay seal|Engine bay seal]]
----

==Exhausts==

*[[Exhausts Systems Petrol|Petrol Exhausts - Early/Late]]
*[[Exhausts Suppliers|Exhaust system suppliers - Part Nos & Stainless Alternatives]]
*[[Exhausts Custom|Custom exhausts]]
*[[Exhausts Rust|Exhaust rust repairs]]
*[[Exhausts Heat Pipe|DG Exhaust Heat transfer pipe]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*[[Diesel - Injectors|Diesel Injectors]]
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plugs - replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]
*[[Diesel - Fuel system Tips and Tricks|Fuel system Tips and Tricks]]
*[[Diesel - Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines| Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines]]

==Petrol==

*Common
**[[Petrol engines Fire warning|#Fire warnings# - fuel lines, tank and filler]]
**[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|#Fuel leaks# - Aircooled]]

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 Fuel hoses|Replacing 1.9 DG Fuel hoses]]
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Air leaks|Carb or manifold air-leaks]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Autochoke|Carb Autochoke setting]]
**[[Fuel system - Runs then dies|Runs then dies]]
**[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36598& Intermitten but very annoying problem (blocked jet?)]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Clearing blocked jets|Clearing blocked jets]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system tank cleaning|Tank Cleaning]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Cap|Filler/filler cap]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

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=Coolant and Heating=
==Cooling System==

* [[Coolant and Heating Flashing red light on dash|Flashing red low/overheating coolant light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands|Anti-freeze - Brands, specs, dilutions and capacities]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |Main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]
* [[Coolant and Heating running temperatures|Running temperatures]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 1|Replacing original front-to-rear metal pipes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 2|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 2.1]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 3|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 1.9DG]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Instrumentation malfunction|Temp gauge and sender malfunctions]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Testing radiator fan |Testing radiator fan]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Oil cooling|Oil cooling]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Header tank top and up tank|Header tank and top up tank]]

==Heating System==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|
Hot & Cold Air Blower - Diagnosis, Removal, Replacement And Modifications]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Dash blower PWM upgrade|Dash blower PWM upgrade]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Air-cooled heating system|Air-cooled heating system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Heater hoses|Heater hoses]]

*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Excellent article on improving VW a/c insulation & heating system]

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= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic General Info|Automatics - General Information]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Oil|Gearbox oil checking/changing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Parts|Automatic gearbox - Parts and finding them]]

==Manual gearbox specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings|Gearbox ##Warnings##]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures including release bearing|Clutch - pictures]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|Clutch slave cylinder replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Cutch CVs - Clutch slave-cylinder|Clutch slave-cylinder and pipework]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism|Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gear change reluctance|Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving sloppy g/c & g/c part nos.]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Gear selection process|Gear selection process]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange selection rod pictures and drawings]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel clutch change|Diesel clutch installation considerations]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox type swap|Gearbox type swap (425 & 524)]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket|Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket - Breakage]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox corrosion prevention]]
*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common gearbox i.e. automatic and manual==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|Diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]
*[http://www.rjes.com/html/gearbox_types.html Link to RJES gearbox code chart]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]

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= VW Electrics (not camper interior specific)=

*Electrical System
** [[VW Electrics fuse box|Main fuse box]]
** [[VW Electrics main cables|Replacing - starter - battery - alternator cable]]
** [[VW Electrics battery to dash|Upgrading power connection to dash]]
** [[Vw Electrics rear lighting wire colours|Rear lighting wire colours]]
** [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
** [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
** [[VW Electrics Diesel battery to starter cable|Diesel battery to starter cable]]
** [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors|Electric wing mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Wiring heated LT Mirrors|Wiring heated LT Mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Brake warning light|Brake warning light]]
** [[VW Electrics Windscreen Wipers|Windscreen wiper functions]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlight Upgrade|Round Headlight Upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Square Headlights|Square Headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight Adjustment|Headlight Adjustment]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternators|Alternators/Generators]]
** [[VW Electrics Ignition Coil|Ignition Coil]]
** [[VW Electrics Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges |Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges]]
** [[VW Electrics rewiring Dashboard multipin connector|Rewiring Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout |Dashboard multipin connector pinout]]
** [[VW Electrics Repairing Dashboard multipin connector|Repairing Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Barrel|Changing Ignition Barrel]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Switch|Changing Ignition Switch]]
** [[VW Electrics Understanding Components|Simple Guide to Electronic components]]

*Troubleshooting
** [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
** [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
** [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
** [http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]

*Upgrades and Modifications
** [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent wipers]]
** [[VW Electrics Upgrading headlights|Upgrading headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlights To Square|Round Headlights To Square]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
** [[VW Electrics Rear fog lights|Rear fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics front fog lights|Front fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control illumination]]
** [[VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade|Dash Fan Control Upgrade)]]
** [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator sizes|Alternator size formula & tutorial]]
** [[VW Electrics LED Number plate light|LED Number plate light]]
** [[VW Electrics 12 volt live feed only when engine running|12 volt live feed only when engine running]]
** [[VW Electrics Stereo feed from both batteries|Stereo feed from both batteries]]
** [[VW Electrics Adding an independent or new horn|Adding an independent or new horn]]
** [[VW Electrics Smooth 12v/5v supply|Smooth 12v/5v supply]]

*Pictures, Diagrams, Lists
**[[Petrol engine wiring|Petrol Engine Wiring]]
**[[Diesel engine wiring|Diesel Engine Wiring]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator 90 Amp Wiring|90 Amp Alternator Wiring]]

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= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing control arm bushes | Replacing control arm bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
* [[Steering and suspension Radius-rod and bushes|Radius-rod and bushes]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering|Power steering]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering Universal Joint Replacement|power steering Universal Joint Replacement]]
* [[Steering and suspension Steering shaft joints|Steering shaft joints]]
* [[Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers|Replacing shock absorbers (with Sachs HD)]]
* [[Steering and suspension replace steering rack boot|replace steering rack boot]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=

*[[Wheels and tyres - Tyres|Tyres]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels|Alternative wheels]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and tyres Wheel offset (ET)|Wheel offset (ET) explained ]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Speedometer Cable|Speedometer Cable]]
----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes front caliper replacement|front caliper replacement]]
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]
*[[Brakes Front handbrake cable| Front handbrake cable]]
*[[Brakes Rear handbrake cables| Rear handbrake cables]]
*[[Brakes poor brake performance diagnostics| poor brake performance diagnostics]]
----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

==Painting your van==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Painting |Painting - General]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Roller painting |Rollering Rustoleum - Paint your van for £50]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting|Window removal and refitting]]

==Windscreen==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen Removing|Removing windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen re-fitting|Windscreen re-fitting]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
http://campervanculture.com/2011/05/fitting-vw-t25-vanagon-t3-windscreen/

==Doors==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Doors locks|Door locks and keys]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Tailgate lock|Tailgate lock]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Sliding Door and Parts|Sliding Door and parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Door seals|Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Guide to fitting Cab Door seals|Guide to fitting Cab Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window scrapers |Window scrapers]]

==Leaks==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks| Foot-well leaks]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]

==Insulation==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation|Insulation]]

==Parts==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts|Pictures of parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts DIY|Pictures of DIY parts]]

==Rust==

===General Information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust|Rust and some treatments]]
**[[Areas that rust - General|General list of areas that rust]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting|Electrolytic de-rusting of parts]]
**[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Internal section inspection method e.g. for rust]]

===Specific areas (details, photos, articles, etc)===

**[[Areas that rust - Kitchen panel|Kitchen/fridge body side panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear chassis|Rear chassis]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member and repair]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front panel lower|Front panel lower]]
**[[Areas that rust - Cab step|Cab steps]]
**[[Areas that rust - Inner Sills|Inner Sills]]
**[[Areas that rust - Floor sliding door side|Floor - sliding door side]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front jacking points|Front jacking points]]
**[[Areas that rust - Behind VW underseal|Behind VW underseal]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front seat-belt anchors|Seat-belt anchor plates (front)]]
**[[Areas that rust - Bodypanels rear|Rear wing bodypanels]]
**[[Areas that rust - Offside outer sill|Offside (kitchen) outer sill & panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Window frames|Window frame rust repair]]
**[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173 Seriously rusty van repairs - shows many areas exposed - excellent photo journal]

===Other relevant information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
**[[Techniques - Welding|Techniques - Welding]]
**[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis Cleaning Tools]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/spoiler_fitting.html Fitting a spoiler]
* [https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207546/V796.pdf Rules on number plates]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
*[[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
*[[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|Seatbelt legality]]

==Seats==

*[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
*[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest fitting to rear seats|Headrests - Fitting to rear seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest removing|Headrests - Removing]]

==Headlining/ interior panels==
*[[Interior non camping interior panels|Interior panels]]
*[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]

==Cab Door Armrests==
*[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]

==Dashboard==
*[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
*[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Tailgate==
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate Interior latch opening| Tailgate - Interior latch opening]]

==Multimedia==
*[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

==Other==

= Campers =

==Camping Interior Cupboards, beds, etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]
* [[Camping Interior Cab bunk|Cab bunk]]
* [[Camping Interior rear hatch ventilation|Rear hatch ventilation]]
* [[Camping Interior Removing units|Removing units]]
* [[Camping Interior Useful Westfalia specific sites|Useful Westfalia specific sites]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior - Electrical Safety|Electrical Standards & Safety]]
* [[Camping Interior Westfalia leisure battery charging|Westfalia leisure battery charging]]
* Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams
**[[Camping Interior Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams Holdsworth Villa| Holdsworth Villa]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping Interior TV Installation|Installing a TV]]
* [[Camping Interior Hookup Schemes|Mains Hookup - Schemes and Safety]]
* [[Camping interior Solar power charging systems|Solar power charging systems]]
* [[Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop|Solar panel fitted to a tintop]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries|Facts about auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat|Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units|Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery|Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|Lighting]]

* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]
* [[Camping Interior Towing connections|Towing connections]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Webasto|Webasto]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]
*[[Camping Interior Insulation|Insulation]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge removal|Fridge removal]]
* [[Camping interior fridge servicing/Maintenance|Fridge servicing & maintenance]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Cooking suggestions and recipes]]
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Calor Gas facts]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]

==Gas==
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Gas information]]
----

==Camping Exterior Campers exterior ,roofs, windows, skylights, awnings etc==
* [[Camping Exterior Westfalia|Westfalia]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting pop-top|Fitting a pop-top]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]
* [[Camping Exterior stop the drip |Stop the drip]]
* [[Camping Exterior Hightop side windows |Hightop side windows]]

* [[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]

==Conversions==

*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)|Danbury Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)]]
*[http://www.80-90.co.uk/techhelp/pdfs/Westy.PDF Westy camper plans in pdf format (German) - Thanks to Aberdeenbus]

==Karmann Coachbuilts==

[http://www.vwcampervanblog.com/the-rare-volkswagen-karmann-coachbuilt-camper-van/ The rare Karmann coachbuilt camper van]

[http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/ Volkswagen Karmann Coachbuilts Club]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page| Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9 Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General - Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[[General Fasteners|Fasteners and fastener types]]

*[[General Fastener Materials|Fastener materials & selection]]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]

*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]
*[[General Tyre pressure calc|Tyre pressures - Generic formula]]

* [http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm Torque converter]
* [http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf Zeus tables in pdf format (16.3 Mb)]

* [http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm Std. Imperial thread data (US source)]

==Tools/Sundries/Safety equipment==

===Tools===
*[[General Torque Wrench|Torque Wrench]]
*[[General Rear Brake Adjuster Tool|Brake adjuster tool for rear brakes]]
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Screw/Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General Impact Screwdriver|Impact Screwdriver]]
*[[General Screw extractors|Screw extractors (easiouts)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Thread Chaser|Thread Chaser]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Rivnuts|Rivnuts]]
*[[General Welding equipment|Welding equipment]]
*[[General Spot Blaster|Hobby spot-blaster]]
*[[General Glow-plug spanner|Diesel glow-plug removal spanner]]
*[[General Shelter-tent workshop|Shelter-tent workshop]]
*[[General QMAX hole punch|QMAX hole punch]]
*[[General Pipe spanners|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]
*[[General Underseal chisel|Underseal chisel]]
*[[General Cleco pins|Cleco (Avdel)locating pins]]
*[[General Stainless Wire Brush|Stainless Wire Brushes]]
*[[General Chain wrench|Chain-wrench/Strap wrench/Pipe wrench]]
*[[General Belt finger sander|Belt (finger) sander {powerfile)]]
*[[General HD vacuum cleaner|HD (or industrial) workshop vacuum cleaner]]
*[[General Joggler|Sheet-metal joggler tool]]
*[[General Battery Chargers|Battery chargers]]

===Home made tools===
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device|Brake bleed pressure device]]
*[[General Homemade working light|Cheap working light for inaccessible areas]]
*[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis cleaning tools]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Improvised|Improvised deep-reach welding clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Home-made|Home-made deep-reach G-clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning - Home-made|Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning]]
*[[General Homemade Emergency Welders|Emergency Welders]]

===Sundries===
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]
*[[General Cold Front|Cold Front (welding)]]
*[[General High Temperature finishes|High-temp paints]]
*[[General Anti-corrosion paint|Weld-thru Zinc spray]]
*[[General Rust-busters|Rust-busters and penetrating oils]]
*[[General EZGrip|EZ-Grip fastener head friction drops]]
*[[General Dinitrol Rust-off|Dinitrol (RC900) Rust-off primer (optional Chassis Black overcoating)]]
*[[General Rustoleum paint|Rustoleum Combi-colour paint]]

===Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions===

Safety, Safely & Sagely.

*[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
*[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
*[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
*[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]
*[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]

==Techniques==
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut|Loosening (46mm) rear-hub castle-nut]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding and brazing]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rust|Removing rust using vinegar (from small components)]]
*[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Handy method for inspecting inside sills/sections etc]]

*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
*[http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Hydraulic lifters]
*[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting]]
*[[General Joggler| Joggling (stepping) panels for seam joins]]

*[[Techniques - Sheet steel fabrication|Sheet steel fabrication]]

*[[Techniques - CB radio installation and aerial tuning|CB radio installations and aerial tuning]]

==Technical Information - non vehicle specific ==

===Electrical===

===Mechanical===

===Other===

==Featured Parts==

*[[Parts - Bodywork - Seatbelt anchor plates|Seatbelt anchor nut plates]]

*[[Parts - Turbo pipework - Murray aviation hose clamp|Murray aviation hose clamp]]

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]
*[[Insurance Postcode rating|Postocde rating]]
----

= Breakdown =

*[[breakdown ADAC|ADAC (Deutsche AA)]]
*[[breakdown Adrian Flux|Adrian Flux]]
*[[breakdown AA|AA]]
*[[breakdown Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)|Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)]]
*[[breakdown CIS|CIS (Co-Op Insurance Services)]]
----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]

*Pictures of hard to get to places and bits you don't normally see (also see Rust and Interiors)
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
**[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
**[[T25 Media Library 80-90 films| 80-90 films]]
----

=T25 Camper Manuals, VW manuals, Specifications, Literature, Magazine Articles,=
*[http://www.vanagonauts.com/2.1L-Vanagon-Specs234.htm List of torques and specifications, fluids etc ]
*[http://web.mac.com/gbotter/Club_del_Maggiolino_di_Treviso/VW_Camper_T3_A.html Lots of original brochures on an Italian website]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals /Autosleeper Trident/ Autohomes]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights/dimensions]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals Technical books| Technical books Haynes etc]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/proj/prpics/p93/p93.pdf Wooden toy template, can be modified to look more T25]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Manuals|Where to get manuals]]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php M-Code M-Plate decipher website]

----

=Links & Addresses (Parts, sundries & other useful websites) =

==Parts & sundry Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]
*[[Internet Links Electronic and Electrical Services|Electronic (ECU) and Electrical Services]]
*[http://www.dubdoctors.com/ http://www.dubdoctors.com/]

===Suppliers feedback gleaned from the forum===

*[[Elite VW]]

=Internet links - Other relevant websites=

*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]

*[http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm | MOT testers manual in depth, you can download the manual opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/Special%20Notice%2009-11.pdf | MOT changes for 2012 opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.bradtech.ltd.uk/ |Thetford portaloo spares]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]
*[http://www.jigrah.co.uk/mhpark/Default.htm Hightop-friendly carparks]
*[[Internet Links other T25 and vanagon resources|Other useful T25 and vanagon tech resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club suppliers]]

*[[Westy jokers]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
*[[Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers|Stolen Vehicle registers]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts1994/ukpga_19940033_en_8#pt5-pb1 Criminal justice act Part V relating to trespass powers to remove, may have a relevance to overnight camping]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics] site not active march20111
*[http://www.vwpix.org/eng/ VWPix, Boltze & Co's VW brochure site]
*[http://sbmcc.co.uk/forum/ SBMCC (Self-build Motor Caravanners Club]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN M-Code decoder website(Bottom right, 1979~1991 T3)]

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]

[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks installing Firefox|Installing Firefox]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - Joining the Waze Group|Joining the 80-90 Waze Nav App Group]]

*[[Misc tips and tricks - Windows PC - Fixing problems|Windows PC - Fixing Problems]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying VW parts (UK, Germany and SA]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers - Warning]]
*[[Parts - Non-VW Parts|Non VW parts]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==

*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]

==Performance; Power; Dyno results==
*[[Performance - Dyno results|Dynamometer test results]]
----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

=Garages, Workshops and services=
==T25==
[[Garages T25 Specific|T25 specific garages]]
==General==
[[Garages General Recommended|Recommended general garages]]

[[Garages recomended Non UK|Garages recomended Non UK]]

==Services==
[[Services Recommended|Recommended Services]]

=Health & Safety=
==Common workshop dangers==

*[[H&S Dangerous Gases|Highly Dangerous Gases from common workshop sundries]]

*Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions (From Tools, Techniques & Sundries)

**[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
**[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
**[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
**[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]
**[[General Battery charging Hydrogen gas explosion warnings]]
*Safety - Driving -Roadside repairs - Off-road etc
**[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures

2018-08-14T15:05:32Z

CovKid: /* Release bearing - fitment */

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures

2018-08-14T15:04:56Z

CovKid: /* Release bearing - fitment */

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures

2018-08-14T15:03:39Z

CovKid: /* Release bearing - fitment */

[[Image:T25_bellhousing_inside_01.jpg]]
<br>
Clutch operating forks, worn, with flats on them, which hinder smooth clutch disengagement<br>
Also can be seen damage to the end of the release bearing guide tube<br>

[[Image:T25_Clutch_Forks_Flats_02.jpg]]

===Release bearing - fitment===

For clarity, here is a video from Covkid showing the correct orintation of the release bearing clips and the easy way to fit bearing.

Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures

2018-08-14T15:02:16Z

CovKid:

Fuel system - Pierburg

2018-07-26T12:49:52Z

CovKid: /* Carb Wear - Throttle Flap leaks */

== Useful links ==

[http://www.gowerandlee.co.uk Carburettor 2e3 refurb kit Part No ZE511 and £33.09 inc delivery or £13 from VW (if you can get it)]

== Diagrams/exploded views ==

[[Image:Carb2E3explode.GIF]]

<TABLE WIDTH="100%" BORDER="1">
<TR>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Description</TH>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Description</TH>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">1</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Upper body</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">21</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Tamperproof cap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">2</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel inlet filter</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">22</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Float chamber gasket</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">3</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float pin</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">23</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Main body</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">4</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">24</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Part load enrichment valve</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">5</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Needle valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">25</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">6</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">26</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">7</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">27</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke housing</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">8</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle cut-off solenoid</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">28</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Bi-metal choke assembly</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">9</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle speed control screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">29</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke flap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">10</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Mixture screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">30</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">11</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump diaphragm</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">31</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">13</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float chamber gasket</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">32</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Roll pin</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">15</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Vapour canister</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">33</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Star clip</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">16</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel hose feed from pump</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">35</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Fast idle adjustment screw</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">18</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">36</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Earth strap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">19</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (secondary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">37</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Throttle body heater</TD>
</TR>
</TABLE>

Table borrowed from Gower and Lee [http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/] who can supply most of the parts

Note: If you require the 'choke flap repair unit' (van choke not working, no power at all until it warms up) then the Pierburg part number you need is 4-07301-13 (or possible 4-07301-10 might do). Gower and Lee don't have this in stock but they did have (May 09) 4.07301.09 2EE kits, the spindle is incorrect but I'm sure the plastic cam would fit. Image from Gower & Lee of this part number.

[[Image:Download.jpeg]]

== Other cars that use the Pierburg 2e3 ==

== Jetting carbs ==

[http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm Aircooled.net (Carbs 102: Basic Jetting Theory and Procedure)]

'''toomanytoys:''' Using a 1.9DG pierbug on a 2.1 DJ engine

If the truth be known.. it possibly would benefit from running some smaller jets. as the engine should give a bigger vacuum..
in reality the standard jets in a 2E3 work very well and give the same or better than DG mpg (I used to get same mpg but travelling faster) as the cam timing is longer so allows for the charge to get into the engine.

One thing with the DJ is you will have to consider what timing and fuel to use.. UL95 use 5 deg BTDC, or with UL98 you could go a bit higher maybe 8 deg BTDC but I would be a little wary of runnng 10 deg on UL98.. the Fuel Injection has better control over fueling than a carb.. unless anyone has put a lot of miles on a "DJ'd" DG.. I have, but on LPG which is a different kettle of fish..

Air filter.. if an early square type then dont worry, same as in Audi 5 cyl turbo's so flow plenty of air..
but I would make sure you rebiuld the carb before using it and set it up properly.
If you can stretch to a rolling road session with someone that knows carbs, then you could fine tune the timing and carb settings/jets, but it will cost you.. but you would know whats going on..

Its a great conversion, lots of usefull torque, without compromising the mpg..
Oh and think about using the oil cooler from the DJ as the extra heat needs to go somewhere, plumb it in to the coolant return from the carb heating.. make sure the cooling system is in good nick and fit a new genuine thermostat (been some problems with some aftermarket ones.)

Footnote:
== Don't Forget - There Are TWO filters ==
- (CovKid)

I'm posting this, peppered with relevant keywords in the hope that should anyone experience the same problem, they may just find a solution here.

Some months ago I ran entirely out of petrol at a busy junction in the pouring rain with my five year old son onboard. Fortunately a sympathetic bay owner going the other way saw the situation I was in and towed me off. I returned to the car park I'd left it in the next morning and it started with little problem with a gallon of petrol poured in, plus a dash down the inlet bore for good measure.

However, I had noticed a definate drop-off in power, mild hesitation on acceleration and what appeared to be a speed governer at around 65mph (mine will normally do 80mph fairly effortlessly). Last week I replaced the main fuel filter near the tank but this made little difference, neither did new plugs and a non rev-limiting rotor arm.

Its worth pointing out that the Pierburg carb in fact has its OWN filter (part 2 in above diagram), almost unseen as its fitted right inside the brass fuel inlet pipe - cone shaped, and only removable with a screw around the same diameter.

Heres the inlet pipe (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt1.jpg]]

Using a screw extractor or self tapping screw to grip the inside of the plastic filter (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt2.jpg]]

Filter removed (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt3.jpg]]

Today I removed this and discovered it was totally crudded up with limescale/rust and with a careful and repeated wash in detergent and rolled between finger and thumb, it was finally clean once again. Refitted, power restored, smooth acceleration and no top speed limit. So, worth remembering if you have the same carb, don't forget to clean out this filter as well as replacing the one near the tank. You need something like a self-tapping screw to grip it and pull it out. Easy job though.

If you tend to run low on fuel or run out altogether, you could well find your bus runs like a box of loose spanners because of this with it dying at junctions, holding back at speed etc. For reference, the float bowl was free of any muck.

== Pierburg overhaul kit and adjustments ==

Two excellent videos produced by Jamesakers on using a rebuild kit and checking carburetttor adjustments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKD6ci8o06w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qZwRgHX4A

== Electrical plugs/connectors ==

We recently found fairly good substitutes for the original male/female spade connectors that join the carb choke etc to the wiring harness. They can be purchased from:

https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/1-way-connector-including-terminals-1898-p.asp

==Rubber Boot on secondary throttle diaphragm==

[[File:DG_Pierburg_Secondary_Diaphragm_Booot_01.jpg]]

Fuel system - Pierburg

2018-07-06T08:15:36Z

CovKid: /* Electrical plugs/connectors */

== Useful links ==

[http://www.gowerandlee.co.uk Carburettor 2e3 refurb kit Part No ZE511 and £33.09 inc delivery or £13 from VW (if you can get it)]

== Diagrams/exploded views ==

[[Image:Carb2E3explode.GIF]]

<TABLE WIDTH="100%" BORDER="1">
<TR>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Description</TH>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Description</TH>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">1</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Upper body</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">21</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Tamperproof cap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">2</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel inlet filter</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">22</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Float chamber gasket</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">3</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float pin</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">23</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Main body</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">4</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">24</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Part load enrichment valve</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">5</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Needle valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">25</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">6</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">26</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">7</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">27</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke housing</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">8</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle cut-off solenoid</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">28</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Bi-metal choke assembly</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">9</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle speed control screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">29</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke flap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">10</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Mixture screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">30</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">11</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump diaphragm</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">31</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">13</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float chamber gasket</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">32</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Roll pin</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">15</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Vapour canister</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">33</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Star clip</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">16</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel hose feed from pump</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">35</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Fast idle adjustment screw</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">18</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">36</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Earth strap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">19</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (secondary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">37</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Throttle body heater</TD>
</TR>
</TABLE>

Table borrowed from Gower and Lee [http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/] who can supply most of the parts

Note: If you require the 'choke flap repair unit' (van choke not working, no power at all until it warms up) then the Pierburg part number you need is 4-07301-13 (or possible 4-07301-10 might do). Gower and Lee don't have this in stock but they did have (May 09) 4.07301.09 2EE kits, the spindle is incorrect but I'm sure the plastic cam would fit. Image from Gower & Lee of this part number.

[[Image:Download.jpeg]]

== Other cars that use the Pierburg 2e3 ==

== Jetting carbs ==

[http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm Aircooled.net (Carbs 102: Basic Jetting Theory and Procedure)]

'''toomanytoys:''' Using a 1.9DG pierbug on a 2.1 DJ engine

If the truth be known.. it possibly would benefit from running some smaller jets. as the engine should give a bigger vacuum..
in reality the standard jets in a 2E3 work very well and give the same or better than DG mpg (I used to get same mpg but travelling faster) as the cam timing is longer so allows for the charge to get into the engine.

One thing with the DJ is you will have to consider what timing and fuel to use.. UL95 use 5 deg BTDC, or with UL98 you could go a bit higher maybe 8 deg BTDC but I would be a little wary of runnng 10 deg on UL98.. the Fuel Injection has better control over fueling than a carb.. unless anyone has put a lot of miles on a "DJ'd" DG.. I have, but on LPG which is a different kettle of fish..

Air filter.. if an early square type then dont worry, same as in Audi 5 cyl turbo's so flow plenty of air..
but I would make sure you rebiuld the carb before using it and set it up properly.
If you can stretch to a rolling road session with someone that knows carbs, then you could fine tune the timing and carb settings/jets, but it will cost you.. but you would know whats going on..

Its a great conversion, lots of usefull torque, without compromising the mpg..
Oh and think about using the oil cooler from the DJ as the extra heat needs to go somewhere, plumb it in to the coolant return from the carb heating.. make sure the cooling system is in good nick and fit a new genuine thermostat (been some problems with some aftermarket ones.)

Footnote:
== Don't Forget - There Are TWO filters ==
- (CovKid)

I'm posting this, peppered with relevant keywords in the hope that should anyone experience the same problem, they may just find a solution here.

Some months ago I ran entirely out of petrol at a busy junction in the pouring rain with my five year old son onboard. Fortunately a sympathetic bay owner going the other way saw the situation I was in and towed me off. I returned to the car park I'd left it in the next morning and it started with little problem with a gallon of petrol poured in, plus a dash down the inlet bore for good measure.

However, I had noticed a definate drop-off in power, mild hesitation on acceleration and what appeared to be a speed governer at around 65mph (mine will normally do 80mph fairly effortlessly). Last week I replaced the main fuel filter near the tank but this made little difference, neither did new plugs and a non rev-limiting rotor arm.

Its worth pointing out that the Pierburg carb in fact has its OWN filter (part 2 in above diagram), almost unseen as its fitted right inside the brass fuel inlet pipe - cone shaped, and only removable with a screw around the same diameter.

Heres the inlet pipe (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt1.jpg]]

Using a screw extractor or self tapping screw to grip the inside of the plastic filter (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt2.jpg]]

Filter removed (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt3.jpg]]

Today I removed this and discovered it was totally crudded up with limescale/rust and with a careful and repeated wash in detergent and rolled between finger and thumb, it was finally clean once again. Refitted, power restored, smooth acceleration and no top speed limit. So, worth remembering if you have the same carb, don't forget to clean out this filter as well as replacing the one near the tank. You need something like a self-tapping screw to grip it and pull it out. Easy job though.

If you tend to run low on fuel or run out altogether, you could well find your bus runs like a box of loose spanners because of this with it dying at junctions, holding back at speed etc. For reference, the float bowl was free of any muck.

== Pierburg overhaul kit and adjustments ==

Two excellent videos produced by Jamesakers on using a rebuild kit and checking carburetttor adjustments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKD6ci8o06w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qZwRgHX4A

== Electrical plugs/connectors ==

We recently found fairly good substitutes for the original male/female spade connectors that join the carb choke etc to the wiring harness. They can be purchased from:

https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/1-way-connector-including-terminals-1898-p.asp

== Carb Wear - Throttle Flap leaks ==

If you have wear in a throttle flap, it will allow air in, causing poor idling and commonly, vehicle dying when you pull up to a junction. Air leaks anywhere on inlet side will cause this, but if you need throttle flap rebushing, Roger Ball in Clacton specialises in doing these. Please note however, cleaning airways/jets and fitting new gaskets is your job.

[[Image:rogerballnumber.gif]]

Roger makes a lot of stuff for custom bikes, mods for mobility scooters and so forth and is extremely well known for his engineering skills, so anything in the milling/turning line is his bag really.

Roger says carb makers tend to fit nylon bushes to throttle flaps from new but these eventually wear out. He dumps these and fits phosphor bronze bushes which have superior wear characteristics and lube nicely. He said give him a call and he'll sort your carb for you no problem! He does beetle, Type 2, T25, Webber carbs etc etc. "Most of these buses are well over 25 years old and its not uncommon for throttle flaps to get so worn they can have as much as an 8 thou gap, which is like a bucket to be honest. You'll never get it to run right when its worn like that" he says.

He needs carb body (where carb can be broken down into sections, you can just send body part that has the throttle flap if you like) as he needs to ensure it all fits together perfectly for you. Usually he'll put the throttle flap stem on the lathe to ensure it runs true first then measure everything to make sure the new bushes fit like a glove. I've seen Roger do many over the years (at least 18 years) and many 80/90 members will vouch for the quality of his work. Unfortunately I've also seen people fork out for brand new carbs when the old one only needed a clean, new gaskets and the throttle flap sorted. In fact the throttle spindle is about the only place that wear occurs and Roger's bushes far out-last the original ones. He'll tell you all about it if you ring him.

He does NOT clean & regasket carbs - thats your job.

Evenings (except weekends when he's out blowing his harp) are probably best time to catch him he says.

==Rubber Boot on secondary throttle diaphragm==

[[File:DG_Pierburg_Secondary_Diaphragm_Booot_01.jpg]]

Fuel system - Pierburg

2018-07-06T08:14:51Z

CovKid:

== Useful links ==

[http://www.gowerandlee.co.uk Carburettor 2e3 refurb kit Part No ZE511 and £33.09 inc delivery or £13 from VW (if you can get it)]

== Diagrams/exploded views ==

[[Image:Carb2E3explode.GIF]]

<TABLE WIDTH="100%" BORDER="1">
<TR>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Description</TH>
<TH WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">Item</TH>
<TH WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Description</TH>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">1</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Upper body</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">21</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Tamperproof cap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">2</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel inlet filter</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">22</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Float chamber gasket</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">3</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float pin</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">23</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Main body</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">4</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">24</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Part load enrichment valve</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">5</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Needle valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">25</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">6</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">26</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Secondary throttle diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">7</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump valve</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">27</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke housing</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">8</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle cut-off solenoid</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">28</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Bi-metal choke assembly</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">9</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Idle speed control screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">29</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke flap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">10</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Mixture screw</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">30</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">11</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Accelerator pump diaphragm</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">31</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Choke pull-down diaphragm pipe</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">13</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Float chamber gasket</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">32</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Roll pin</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">15</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Vapour canister</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">33</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Star clip</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">16</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Fuel hose feed from pump</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">35</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Fast idle adjustment screw</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">18</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (primary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">36</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Earth strap</TD>
</TR>
<TR>
<TD WIDTH="74" ALIGN="CENTER">19</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="200">Main jet (secondary)</TD>
<TD ALIGN="CENTER" WIDTH="74">37</TD>
<TD WIDTH="200" ALIGN="CENTER">Throttle body heater</TD>
</TR>
</TABLE>

Table borrowed from Gower and Lee [http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/] who can supply most of the parts

Note: If you require the 'choke flap repair unit' (van choke not working, no power at all until it warms up) then the Pierburg part number you need is 4-07301-13 (or possible 4-07301-10 might do). Gower and Lee don't have this in stock but they did have (May 09) 4.07301.09 2EE kits, the spindle is incorrect but I'm sure the plastic cam would fit. Image from Gower & Lee of this part number.

[[Image:Download.jpeg]]

== Other cars that use the Pierburg 2e3 ==

== Jetting carbs ==

[http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm Aircooled.net (Carbs 102: Basic Jetting Theory and Procedure)]

'''toomanytoys:''' Using a 1.9DG pierbug on a 2.1 DJ engine

If the truth be known.. it possibly would benefit from running some smaller jets. as the engine should give a bigger vacuum..
in reality the standard jets in a 2E3 work very well and give the same or better than DG mpg (I used to get same mpg but travelling faster) as the cam timing is longer so allows for the charge to get into the engine.

One thing with the DJ is you will have to consider what timing and fuel to use.. UL95 use 5 deg BTDC, or with UL98 you could go a bit higher maybe 8 deg BTDC but I would be a little wary of runnng 10 deg on UL98.. the Fuel Injection has better control over fueling than a carb.. unless anyone has put a lot of miles on a "DJ'd" DG.. I have, but on LPG which is a different kettle of fish..

Air filter.. if an early square type then dont worry, same as in Audi 5 cyl turbo's so flow plenty of air..
but I would make sure you rebiuld the carb before using it and set it up properly.
If you can stretch to a rolling road session with someone that knows carbs, then you could fine tune the timing and carb settings/jets, but it will cost you.. but you would know whats going on..

Its a great conversion, lots of usefull torque, without compromising the mpg..
Oh and think about using the oil cooler from the DJ as the extra heat needs to go somewhere, plumb it in to the coolant return from the carb heating.. make sure the cooling system is in good nick and fit a new genuine thermostat (been some problems with some aftermarket ones.)

Footnote:
== Don't Forget - There Are TWO filters ==
- (CovKid)

I'm posting this, peppered with relevant keywords in the hope that should anyone experience the same problem, they may just find a solution here.

Some months ago I ran entirely out of petrol at a busy junction in the pouring rain with my five year old son onboard. Fortunately a sympathetic bay owner going the other way saw the situation I was in and towed me off. I returned to the car park I'd left it in the next morning and it started with little problem with a gallon of petrol poured in, plus a dash down the inlet bore for good measure.

However, I had noticed a definate drop-off in power, mild hesitation on acceleration and what appeared to be a speed governer at around 65mph (mine will normally do 80mph fairly effortlessly). Last week I replaced the main fuel filter near the tank but this made little difference, neither did new plugs and a non rev-limiting rotor arm.

Its worth pointing out that the Pierburg carb in fact has its OWN filter (part 2 in above diagram), almost unseen as its fitted right inside the brass fuel inlet pipe - cone shaped, and only removable with a screw around the same diameter.

Heres the inlet pipe (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt1.jpg]]

Using a screw extractor or self tapping screw to grip the inside of the plastic filter (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt2.jpg]]

Filter removed (photo courtesy of member 'Edoh'):

[[image:filt3.jpg]]

Today I removed this and discovered it was totally crudded up with limescale/rust and with a careful and repeated wash in detergent and rolled between finger and thumb, it was finally clean once again. Refitted, power restored, smooth acceleration and no top speed limit. So, worth remembering if you have the same carb, don't forget to clean out this filter as well as replacing the one near the tank. You need something like a self-tapping screw to grip it and pull it out. Easy job though.

If you tend to run low on fuel or run out altogether, you could well find your bus runs like a box of loose spanners because of this with it dying at junctions, holding back at speed etc. For reference, the float bowl was free of any muck.

== Pierburg overhaul kit and adjustments ==

Two excellent videos produced by Jamesakers on using a rebuild kit and checking carburetttor adjustments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKD6ci8o06w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qZwRgHX4A

== Electrical plugs/connectors ==

We recently found fairly good substitutes for the original male/female spade connectors. They can be purchased from:

https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/1-way-connector-including-terminals-1898-p.asp

== Carb Wear - Throttle Flap leaks ==

If you have wear in a throttle flap, it will allow air in, causing poor idling and commonly, vehicle dying when you pull up to a junction. Air leaks anywhere on inlet side will cause this, but if you need throttle flap rebushing, Roger Ball in Clacton specialises in doing these. Please note however, cleaning airways/jets and fitting new gaskets is your job.

[[Image:rogerballnumber.gif]]

Roger makes a lot of stuff for custom bikes, mods for mobility scooters and so forth and is extremely well known for his engineering skills, so anything in the milling/turning line is his bag really.

Roger says carb makers tend to fit nylon bushes to throttle flaps from new but these eventually wear out. He dumps these and fits phosphor bronze bushes which have superior wear characteristics and lube nicely. He said give him a call and he'll sort your carb for you no problem! He does beetle, Type 2, T25, Webber carbs etc etc. "Most of these buses are well over 25 years old and its not uncommon for throttle flaps to get so worn they can have as much as an 8 thou gap, which is like a bucket to be honest. You'll never get it to run right when its worn like that" he says.

He needs carb body (where carb can be broken down into sections, you can just send body part that has the throttle flap if you like) as he needs to ensure it all fits together perfectly for you. Usually he'll put the throttle flap stem on the lathe to ensure it runs true first then measure everything to make sure the new bushes fit like a glove. I've seen Roger do many over the years (at least 18 years) and many 80/90 members will vouch for the quality of his work. Unfortunately I've also seen people fork out for brand new carbs when the old one only needed a clean, new gaskets and the throttle flap sorted. In fact the throttle spindle is about the only place that wear occurs and Roger's bushes far out-last the original ones. He'll tell you all about it if you ring him.

He does NOT clean & regasket carbs - thats your job.

Evenings (except weekends when he's out blowing his harp) are probably best time to catch him he says.

==Rubber Boot on secondary throttle diaphragm==

[[File:DG_Pierburg_Secondary_Diaphragm_Booot_01.jpg]]

Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently

2018-07-04T11:42:34Z

CovKid: /* Question 1 */

==Question 1==
'''Qu.''' In extreme cold the 1.9 WBX will run for approx. 1 min then cuts out and refuses to start again, it is turning over but not firing

'''Mocki:'''

Check the carb heater is working, and working for as long as it should.....

'''Simon Baxter:'''

I have carb gaskets and pull down units on the shelf if needed.
Sounds like normal Pierburg carbs done a zillion miles type problems, not too hard to sort out but I deal with them weekly.
Quite a simple carb if you know what your doing.

Last one I did like that however, like stated was a combination of poor maintainance, thats the trouble when "Sunday morning man" does his own as he misses things a mechanic will spot.
Check fuel line for being porous, not the long plastic one, they never go wrong so don't even think of replacing that, the other connecting pieces that go onto it.
Make sure lines aren't kinked anywhere.
Check the small guaze filter thats shoved up the carb fuel inlet pipe isn't blocked.
Check fuel tank and filler neck for corrosion and anywhere where water can get into the tank.
Replace fuel filter anyway, aforementioned water just bungs fuel filters up.
Check pulldown unit diaphragm isn't blocked.
Usually when they get a few miles on their back the fast adle needs adjusting up as they don't adle as fast as they should when the choke is on.

'''Vanjam:'''

Have had similar problems with a pierburg 2e3. My difficulty was that it would start and run ok on a lot of occasions (the choke mechanism was not working so I had to keep a foot on the pedal during warm up) but then it would refuse to start at all from cold at other times. So it's not exactly like your problem but...

...there was a combination of problems aside from the choke not functioning. The fuel filter was overdue for replacement so it was struggling to draw fuel. On examining the carb, the float chamber was found to be full of muck. The power enrichment valve chamber was full of the same, and the gasket between the upper and lower carb bodies was pretty much shot. I realise that none of these (except possibly the fuel filter problem) accounts directly for your problem and your point re choke pull down might be relevant i.e. if there is insufficient vacuum to adequately open the choke flap whilst engine is idling from cold so it floods. It's taken me some time and serious reading to get mine sorted. I've currently got a Carb book out of the library which is very good so if yo want me to scan something and send it to you, let me know. Mocki's comment re the heater is relevant, (I know from previous posts that he is a carb guru so I bow to his advice) I didn't realise until I left the ignition on by accident whilst i was testing things just how much it heats up the throttle body and surround.

'''Covkid:'''

If the vehicle has been stood for some time (ie months), you may struggle to get it running at all. If it will start with a dash of petrol down carb throat but not by normal means, and pump (electric or mechanical) seems to be working as it should, proceed as follows:

Remove top of carb carefully so as not to damage gasket, and check that float needle valve isn't stuck/wedged shut. Its in the top of the carb above float - look and you'll find it. It should move up and down with the float. Even slight corrosion between needle valve and bore can render it stuck, meaning incoming fuel is diverted straight to return line to tank instead of into float bowl. This can easily happen with a dry carb. Incoming fuel generally lubricates this valve and prevents corrosion or even limescale but if left dry, it can become stuck shut. You can use VERY fine emery paper to clean the ridges on the needle (but go easy). The bore can be cleaned with brasso but make sure NO grit is left behind.

To gain access to the needle valve, you'll need to knock float retaining pin out. The needle valve is attached to the float with a tiny hook.

==Forum Topic Links==

[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61212 Pierburg 2E3 help?]

Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently

2018-07-04T11:41:19Z

CovKid: /* Question 1 */

==Question 1==
'''Qu.''' In extreme cold the 1.9 WBX will run for approx. 1 min then cuts out and refuses to start again, it is turning over but not firing

'''Mocki:'''

Check the carb heater is working, and working for as long as it should.....

'''Simon Baxter:'''

I have carb gaskets and pull down units on the shelf if needed.
Sounds like normal Pierburg carbs done a zillion miles type problems, not too hard to sort out but I deal with them weekly.
Quite a simple carb if you know what your doing.

Last one I did like that however, like stated was a combination of poor maintainance, thats the trouble when "Sunday morning man" does his own as he misses things a mechanic will spot.
Check fuel line for being porous, not the long plastic one, they never go wrong so don't even think of replacing that, the other connecting pieces that go onto it.
Make sure lines aren't kinked anywhere.
Check the small guaze filter thats shoved up the carb fuel inlet pipe isn't blocked.
Check fuel tank and filler neck for corrosion and anywhere where water can get into the tank.
Replace fuel filter anyway, aforementioned water just bungs fuel filters up.
Check pulldown unit diaphragm isn't blocked.
Usually when they get a few miles on their back the fast adle needs adjusting up as they don't adle as fast as they should when the choke is on.

'''Vanjam:'''

Have had similar problems with a pierburg 2e3. My difficulty was that it would start and run ok on a lot of occasions (the choke mechanism was not working so I had to keep a foot on the pedal during warm up) but then it would refuse to start at all from cold at other times. So it's not exactly like your problem but...

...there was a combination of problems aside from the choke not functioning. The fuel filter was overdue for replacement so it was struggling to draw fuel. On examining the carb, the float chamber was found to be full of muck. The power enrichment valve chamber was full of the same, and the gasket between the upper and lower carb bodies was pretty much shot. I realise that none of these (except possibly the fuel filter problem) accounts directly for your problem and your point re choke pull down might be relevant i.e. if there is insufficient vacuum to adequately open the choke flap whilst engine is idling from cold so it floods. It's taken me some time and serious reading to get mine sorted. I've currently got a Carb book out of the library which is very good so if yo want me to scan something and send it to you, let me know. Mocki's comment re the heater is relevant, (I know from previous posts that he is a carb guru so I bow to his advice) I didn't realise until I left the ignition on by accident whilst i was testing things just how much it heats up the throttle body and surround.

'''Covkid:'''

If the vehicle has been stood for some time (ie months), you may struggle to get it running at all. If it will start with a dash of petrol down carb throat but not by normal means, and pump (electric or mechanical) seems to be working as it should, proceed as follows:

Remove top of carb carefully so as not to damage gasket, and check that float needle valve isn't stuck/wedged shut. Even slight corrosion between needle valve and bore can render it stuck, meaning incoming fuel is diverted straight to return line to tank instead of into float bowl. This can easily happen with a dry carb. Incoming fuel generally lubricates this valve and prevents corrosion or even limescale but if left dry, it can become stuck shut. You can use VERY fine emery paper to clean the ridges on the needle (but go easy). The bore can be cleaned with brasso but make sure NO grit is left behind.

To gain access to the needle valve, you'll need to knock float retaining pin out. The needle valve is attached to the float with a tiny hook.

==Forum Topic Links==

[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61212 Pierburg 2E3 help?]

Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently

2018-07-04T11:39:36Z

CovKid:

==Question 1==
'''Qu.''' In extreme cold the 1.9 WBX will run for approx. 1 min then cuts out and refuses to start again, it is turning over but not firing

'''Mocki:'''

Check the carb heater is working, and working for as long as it should.....

'''Simon Baxter:'''

I have carb gaskets and pull down units on the shelf if needed.
Sounds like normal Pierburg carbs done a zillion miles type problems, not too hard to sort out but I deal with them weekly.
Quite a simple carb if you know what your doing.

Last one I did like that however, like stated was a combination of poor maintainance, thats the trouble when "Sunday morning man" does his own as he misses things a mechanic will spot.
Check fuel line for being porous, not the long plastic one, they never go wrong so don't even think of replacing that, the other connecting pieces that go onto it.
Make sure lines aren't kinked anywhere.
Check the small guaze filter thats shoved up the carb fuel inlet pipe isn't blocked.
Check fuel tank and filler neck for corrosion and anywhere where water can get into the tank.
Replace fuel filter anyway, aforementioned water just bungs fuel filters up.
Check pulldown unit diaphragm isn't blocked.
Usually when they get a few miles on their back the fast adle needs adjusting up as they don't adle as fast as they should when the choke is on.

'''Vanjam:'''

Have had similar problems with a pierburg 2e3. My difficulty was that it would start and run ok on a lot of occasions (the choke mechanism was not working so I had to keep a foot on the pedal during warm up) but then it would refuse to start at all from cold at other times. So it's not exactly like your problem but...

...there was a combination of problems aside from the choke not functioning. The fuel filter was overdue for replacement so it was struggling to draw fuel. On examining the carb, the float chamber was found to be full of muck. The power enrichment valve chamber was full of the same, and the gasket between the upper and lower carb bodies was pretty much shot. I realise that none of these (except possibly the fuel filter problem) accounts directly for your problem and your point re choke pull down might be relevant i.e. if there is insufficient vacuum to adequately open the choke flap whilst engine is idling from cold so it floods. It's taken me some time and serious reading to get mine sorted. I've currently got a Carb book out of the library which is very good so if yo want me to scan something and send it to you, let me know. Mocki's comment re the heater is relevant, (I know from previous posts that he is a carb guru so I bow to his advice) I didn't realise until I left the ignition on by accident whilst i was testing things just how much it heats up the throttle body and surround.

'''Covkid:'''

If the vehicle has been stood for some time (ie months), you may struggle to get it running at all. If it will start with a dash of petrol down carb throat but not by normal means, and pump (electric or mechanical) seems to be working as it should, proceed as follows:

Remove top of carb carefully so as not to damage gasket, and check that float needle valve isn't stuck/wedged shut. Even slight corrosion between needle valve and bore can render it stuck, meaning incoming fuel is diverted straight to return line to tank instead of into float bowl. This can easily happen with a dry carb. Incoming fuel generally lubricates this valve and prevents corrosion or even limescale but if left dry, it can become stuck shut. You can use VERY fine emery paper to clean the ridges on the needle (but go easy). The bore can be cleaned with brasso but make sure NO grit is left behind.

==Forum Topic Links==

[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61212 Pierburg 2E3 help?]

All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended

2018-05-15T11:05:53Z

CovKid: /* How Often Should I Change My Oil? */

==General==

'''This page put together by CovKid and California Dreamin - both with years of professional experience servicing VW's.'''

Now, you're either browsing the WIKI because you're curious as to "what oil" you should use, or more likely, you've been sent here because you're the six millionth person that has asked "What oil?"

Engine oil has perhaps been the most talked about subject on 80/90 - frequently the most neglected and often the least understood aspect of servicing and maintenance. Worse, the choices made are sometimes based on little more than myth, and threads frequently surface arguing the case for one oil over another, so we've decided to create a more extended and detailed WIKI section for engine oil with answers to the most common questions. California Dreaming is a time-served VW engineer and Covkid has worked on VWs for some 25 years including building race-spec VW engines but whilst we both came from different ends of the business, remarkably we both agree on the information provided here.

This page is for stock engines found in the T25 range and the recommended grades for each although the information also applies to the T25's ancestors - the Type 1 (bug) and Type 2 (bay/splitty). We do not recommend 'makes' of oil as that is not actually of much relevance - nor should you pester other 80/90 members to find out what they use. Everything you need to know is here - make your own choice as to brand. If you just need a quick answer without too much brainstorming, skip down to the Petrol or Diesel sections and the suggested grades are there!

Firstly, reading through should give you a greater appreciation of the role of your oil, what may or may not work for your engine, and whether paying more, delivers more. We do recommend you read right through. There are additional links for those that want to explore beyond the content provided here. Alternative engines, Subarus, V12's whatever, fall outside the remit of this section. In such instances you should consult the manufacturers recommendations for that particular engine. Additional links are provided for anyone who has time to kill and for reasons we have no wish to know, want to explore the world of 'oil' in more depth.

==Oil And What It Does==

Engine oil actually serves a few purposes beyond lubrication. Oil also cleans, inhibits corrosion, seals and cools an engine. Oil has to work fairly hard and in varying temperatures, particularly with the aircooled engines which in most cases was devoid of a modern oil filter and tends to run hotter. Many modern oils have been developed to help meet the need for lower emissions as engine oil tends to make its way into combustion areas.

[[Image:oilg.jpg]]

Firstly there is no 'right' or even 'perfect' oil but the recommendations below are sound and based on years of experience. Engine oil is always being developed and even 80/90 members disagree, some preferring monograde (though why escapes us), some using cheap or expensive multigrade (multigrade being versatile and able to cope with a wide range of conditions), and even "Fantabidosa premium brand with added mystery thingy". It is worth noting that CovKid rarely pays more than £10 for five litres (2011 prices) and generally gets his oil from places like LIDL or ALDI when they have it in as it far exceeds that required by the T25 - read the label. Spending £40 on oil is akin to those who buy premium unleaded fuel in the belief that they are somehow spoiling their engine. Oil manufacturers notoriously play on this kind of guilt so don't be guided exclusively by slick marketing. You are not driving a Ferrari.

However, one thing we both agree on is no matter what oil you use - '''change it regularly'''. Regular oil changes extend the life of your engine significantly and keeping the oil clean and topped up matters far more than how much you actually spend on it. The VW engine isn't doing the high revolutions of most modern performance-orientated cars so will run quite happily on a budget brand (within reason) providing you change it regularly. Engine oil generally has a shelf life of around 3 years.

Many modern oils (read the label) are formulated to work in both petrol or diesel but we recommend in the case of diesel, you should choose one specifically formulated for diesel engines rather than a dual-type.

==How Often Should I Change My Oil?==

Well, it depends. The flat four aircooled engine needed changing (ideally) every 3000 miles but as well as running at a higher temperature compared to the watercooled. The oil change frequency was therefore extended slightly on later engines. CovKid drives a watercooled 1.9DG petrol and covers around 12k miles a year, changing the oil twice a year. However, if for any reason it looks black or somewhat thin, you should bring the oil change forward. The recommended minimum for oil changes is every 6,000 miles or six months - whichever comes sooner.

==Numbers - What Do They Mean?==

Oil grades are numbered. Heres a brief explanation of what it all means.

Firstly, old-fashioned monograde (which is what it is - one grade) can thin at higher temperatures and generally, does not offer anywhere near the protection of most modern multigrade oils, designed as they are to perform at a larger operating temperature range. Even some of the cheaper multigrade is at least comparable with that recommended by VW in 1980-1990 and certainly before that. There are purists, particularly amongst bug owners who only use monograde, but these days, the advantages afforded by a good multigrade would seem to far outweigh any puritanical view that monograde is the right, or even ''only'' oil one should use. In 1938 perhaps (the birth year of the T25's ancestor), but even the humble beetle now has to keep up with the stop-start fury of modern traffic. Besides, it makes more sense to use an oil that can perform reliably and consistently throughout the year, from a freezing cold start to a baking hot day at high speed. Clearly there is a marked difference in temperature between starting an engine on a cold winters morning and an hour later hammering down the MI.

This difference in operating temperatures of engines, spawned the development of multigrade oils and removed the high demand for various specific grades, resulting in a largely 'one size fits all' approach to engine oils. Basically, multigrade engine oil numbers denote the cold and hot viscosity either side of the 'W' so 15W40 oil would perform like a 15 rated oil from cold and like a 40 when hot.

'''Straight forward explanation of the two numbers that make up an engine oil designation:'''

First number represents the thickness/weight (viscosity) of the oil at 0 degrees F
Second number represents the thickness/weight (viscosity) at 210 degrees F
The designation compares the oils behavior to how different weight 'monogrades' would behave under the same tests.
So: 15W40
At 0 degrees F this oil behaves like a 15 weight 'monograde oil'
And at 210 degrees F the same oil behaves like a 40 weight 'monograde oil' at the same temperature.

Hence why 'modern oils' are classed as 'Multigrades' (one oil that behaves like two viscosity's)

The actual measurement was originally designed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE for short) the machine they used was called a (Redwood Viscometer) This device used a pre-set sized hole by which the 'rate of flow' of the oil was measured at the two temperatures mentioned above.

W was just a designation that was given to all mutigrades to signify their suitability for Winter use (bearing in mind that up until their introduction users were faced with twice yearly oil changes using basic monograde products).

[[Image:frozenbug.jpg]]

Following from that, a 10W40 would perform like a 10 rated oil from cold but some owners (including us) consider it too thin for the VW flat 4 engines because of their particular habit (in some cases) of draining tappets when stood, although in exceedingly low temperatures more familiar to Eskimos, a low rating of 10 would be advantageous if you need to be up and about to trap seals. You get the picture.

Mineral oil is commonly used in T25s. So why not synthetic? Well some do use synthetic oil, which generally has better heat transfer qualities and theoretically works well in aircooled engines which can see elevated head temperatures, but '''only''' if you have an oil filtration system (similar to those on watercooled engines instead of a simple oil strainer), otherwise the oil will become contaminated much more quickly and the additional cost possibly not justified. The other downside, and worth noting before you rush out and buy synthetic oil, is that it will find the tiniest leak and you could end up with oil spots all over your driveway. We're not ruling out synthetic and you may wish to go that route but if your engine is a bit of an 'oiler' the problem may well be made much worse with synthetic. However, for well maintained oil tight examples synthetic may work well as long as your particular engine doesn't suffer from tappet drain as many do. It is possible to find grades as wide as 5W50 in synthetics. Synthetics have evolved with engine development and the need for lower emissions these days. The price is generally higher for synthetics.

Do '''NOT''' mix mineral and synthetic as it could seriously reduce the capacity of the oil to do its job, and at worst render it useless.

SAE denotes that the oil is graded as per that specified by the Society of Automotive Engineers (a benchmark basically) and API denotes the quality of the oil, confirming that it meets certain specifications. More on API can be found in the great Engine Oil Bible (see footer links)

==Oil Types And Other Thoughts==

Increasingly modern oils seem to come in wider ranges and although 15W/40 is getting a little harder to find locally it is still readily available to order. 20W50 (at a pinch) would also be fine but perhaps climate change with sometimes excessively cold winters may preclude 20W50. I do know of owners that use 20W50 in the Summer and 15W40 in the winters and other combinations. Likewise, a diesel oil (which tends to have more detergents) could also be used - more so these days as the gap between diesel engine oil and petrol narrows. I ran a bug on Shell Rimula diesel oil throughout its entire life with no ill effects. In any event, if that was all the garage had in stock on Sunday morning, I wouldn't turn my nose up but certainly the recommended grade is 15W40 multigrade and the vast majority of T25 owners seem to prefer or opt for mineral rather than synthetic.

[[Image:oildrilling.jpg]]

You can find good quality oil that meets and more often than not, exceeds VW T25 original spec from some supermarket outlets these days (LIDL for instance) and often, petrol forecourts have limited offers on engine oil. As has been pointed out by other 80/90 members, cheap oils can be absolutely fine but oil is an expensive commodity and they are not, or rarely, premium fandango brands disguised in a budget container. By the same token, it does not follow that spending £40 on a can of oil promising the earth is going to be far superior in a T25 than the can you saw priced at £15 either. The VW flat four is a fairly low-revving engine and an oil better suited to a high-revving race engine is probably wasted on the VW engine even if it makes the owner feel better. It would however be wise to steer clear of containers that provide very little information at all, but certainly don't rule out an oil simply because it is cheap or assume that the more it costs, the longer your engine will last or the faster it will go. Read the label, and if it seems reasonably good, go by your instincts.

As mentioned earlier, the concensus on 80/90 is that good old fashioned mineral oil is the safest choice, particularly if the engine has done many miles. Mineral oils are, as the name implies, based on oil extracted from beneath our feet, and refined. Synthetic oil (you could see it as a 'designer' oil if you like) is manufactured from various chemicals, although by and large, most of the ingredients do in fact derive from mineral based oil products. The molecular particles are much more even with synthetic oil which is why (technically) it has better heat transfer properties but as noted above, some have experienced minor oil leaks on both water and aircooled VW engines with synthetic oil, only cured by going back to mineral. The other type is semi-synthetic - a mix of the two. Further links are provided in the footer if you wish to explore synthetic and semi-synthetic oils in more depth. Note* 15W40 can be found as a semi synthetic and could be a good choice for those wanting the added protection offered without going down the 'thinner oil' route that may bring on the noisy 'tappet syndrome' that these engines occasionally suffer from, although perhaps to be avoided if yours already marks it's territory lol. You may get on fine with synthetic, but note the remarks on the potential for oil leaks. Some have no issues with leaks, some do. Its your engine, your choice.

==Petrols==

'''1.9, 2.1, 2.0 etc:'''

Contrary to URBAN MYTH monograde oils are not the best for aircooled variants and were '''never''' used by volkswagen dealerships when servicing T25's/T3.

The specified oil recommended is SAE 15W/40 multigrade Mineral for petrol engines (although VW's service chart does show several variations dependant upon climate) - You won't go far wrong sticking to that. 15W50 would also be a good choice - particularly for aircooled engines which can run hotter. Change every six months or 6,000 miles MAX - whichever comes sooner.

One aircooled owner recommended 20W50 on the basis that 15W40 is more likely to seep past gaskets but we have no scientific evidence to back this one up at all and any seepage could simply be down to the quality/brand of the oil rather than grade and indeed symptoms of an old engine. I've '''only''' added this as the question came up in a thread.

Be warned: using a thinner oil in these engines (10W40 for example) can result in 'Noisey Tappet Syndrome' where the hydrailic tappet adjusters drain off when standing, resulting in horrendously noisey/rattley engine for the first 15 minutes of driving which certainly doesn't do anything for your campervan KUDOS lol. This issue doesn't occur to all engines but if you are running thinner grades and you do begin to suffer regular tappet clatter it would be a safe bet to revert back to a heavier grade as recommended above.

==Diesels==
'''California Dreamin'''

'''Diesel Engined variants ALL: 1.6/1.6TD/1.7 & 1.9D/TD modified'''

This is another TOPIC FOR DEBATE as almost all 'normal' engine oils state on their labeling, quote: (ALSO SUITABLE FOR DIESEL AND TURBO DIESEL ENGINES) whilst these oils will perform adequately the WIKI is about recommending the most suitable products so that means buying an oil that is 'primarily' for Diesel engines.

Quote directly from the MILLERS OILS website '''Simply asks the question'''

Do I need different oil for a diesel and petrol engine?

Their Reply: Generally the answer is yes for older vehicles, as diesel engine oils have higher detergency levels.

'''This is an extract from an article explaining some of the differences in requirements of Diesel Engines:'''

Very simply the three main areas are: Higher dispersancy to deal with higher levels of soot Higher detergency levels to minimise depositing on components and as a result a higher TBN which will minimise the risk of Sulphuric Acid formation from diesel dilution. Another quote: Yet another crucial difference between petrol and diesel engine oils is that diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has numerous roles, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines generate a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to cope with them.

'''So in short..Diesel oil recommendations are'''

Look for a Diesel oil specific (an oil primarily for Diesel Engine Use) A good quality 15W40 or 10W40 Diesel/Turbo Diesel Mineral or Semi Synthetic oil is the best choice.

We have purposely left out the arguments/reasons and discussions behind the more bizarre choices, settling on the 'knowns' here to help you make a more informed choice.

'''Previous information'''
A viscosity (thickness) of 15w40 or 10w40, and an oil suited for Diesel engines. As noted earlier in this page, many modern oils are suitable for either petrol or diesel (read the label) but most 80/90 members feel that its best to find an oil that is primarily for diesel and preferably for Turbo diesel.

Quantities (as we note them):

1z TDI - 4.5 litres with the filter

==Technical Specs Explained==

(provided by member 'Oilman'

1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. engine oil, gear oil, ATF etc)

2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for engine oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for gear oils)

3) The specifications that it meets (should contain API and/or ACEA ratings)

4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.5, VW504.00, . . 913A, BMW LL04 etc)

Ignore the marketing blurb on the label, as in many cases it's meaningless and we will explain later what statements you should treat with some skepticism. So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

'''The Purpose'''

All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

'''Viscosity'''

Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thin oil in winter and a thicker oil in the summer. In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature.

The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance. I.E. 5w is better than 10w etc

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

'''Specifications'''

Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of an oil and whether it has met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

'''API Specifications'''

This is the more basic of the two specs as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel (C) specifications. The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

'''PETROL'''

SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.
SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.
SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits
SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards
SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

Note:
All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications, so if you’ve a recent model, don’t bother.

'''DIESEL'''

CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only
CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines
CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine
CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines
CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines
CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests
CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels
CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

Note:
All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications. If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

'''ACEA Specifications'''

This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash,Phosphorus and Sulphur).
These specs are more commonly found on European oils and in many respects are more important than API for European Manufactured cars.
Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

A1 Fuel economy petrol
A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance
B1 Fuel economy diesel
B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance
C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

'''Approvals'''

Many oils mention various Car Manufacturers on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB, BMW, . . or Vauxhall but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying top quality oil because of this. Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

Later specs like 503.00, 503.01, 506.00 are better performing more up to date oils but as far as VW is concerned even these have now been superseded by the latest VW504.00 and VW507.00 specifications.MB – 229.1, 229.30
Later specs like 229.31, 229.5, and 229.51 are better performing and more up to date oils. BMW – LL98 Later specs like LL01 and the latest LL04 oils are better performing and more up to date.

'''Finally'''
Above is the most accurate guidance we can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding labelling. Certain statements are made on labels that are meaningless and just marketing hype; here are a few to avoid!

- Recommended for use where……………

- May be used where the following specifications apply……………

- Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification or specification)

- Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)

- Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

Like everything in life, you get what you pay for. The cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients,lower the performance levels and older the specs it meets so beware!

==Good links==

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[[Petrol_engines_oil_change#Watercooleds| Oil Changes - Petrol Engine]]

[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended| Oil filters and recommendations ]]

==Other==

But in some cases its much easier to post this pic:

[[File:Whatoil.gif]]

Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop

2018-03-04T22:30:28Z

CovKid: /* Solar panel on a tintop */

===Solar panel on a tintop===

[[File:Solartintop3.jpg]]

(Covkid)

In my view, 150 watt should be the absolute minimum on a camper OR tintop. Heres why.

In the winter months where direct sunlight becomes somewhat scarce, the output from a small panel can sink to an almost insignificant level and that matters when you need to keep your batteries trickle charged. I now run two panels (200 watts total) which is overkill in Summer but perfect over winter as the greater wattage helps build in a degree of redundancy (fit and forget).

My batteries remain FULLY charged regardless of weather, all year round. 150 watt would also be fine. 100 watts or less and you'll be ok in Summer (just) but there will be little if any real output in Winter. I'm not talking about the science involved, this is just purely my experience of running solar. Fit more than you think you'll need unless you want to be chasing the sun all day. Don't consider something like a 20 watt or 50 watt if you want to get into solar - the money saved is soon overtaken by frustration and disappointment!

The reduced height of a tintop is good on most car parks, but they do pose their own problems when it comes to attaching solar panels as the roof is far from flat. A rigid panel with a frame is one possibility although if mounted flat they do tend to pool with water, which needs to be cleared, and it requires far more thought (though possible) in terms of fixing - ie drilling holes or buying extra material and gutter clamps. Flexible solar panels however, offer a quick and easy way to add solar power but the roof ribs do prevent you from fixing the panel down directly so you'll need to bridge the gap with stand-offs. This is no bad thing as it also stops the panels overheating on a hot tin roof with a convenient air gap.

This is what you'll need:

'''Materials:'''

100 watt flexible solar kit (around the £140 mark). Mine had the connections on the underside which made it easier to hide wiring.

Builders exterior grade silicone sealant (clear) - about £3 (Silkoflex etc is way too messy for this and the silicone is strong stuff).

Wickes PVCU white cladding joint bead (2500m length) - £2.99 (Perfect for the stand-offs). Its a sort of girder-shaped form factor.

'''Planning:'''

You must plan ahead. Measure the panel carefully. Compare it to spacing between roof ribs and think it through. Decide where you're going to run the cable first. I can't advise on this since its your vehicle. I drilled into roof just above B pillar and fed it down and out through the interior at the bottom, but you may want to route another way.

Make sure you TEST everything works before you begin fixing down the panel. You won't get your money back if its faulty and stuck down! Read the instructions carefully.

[[File:Tintop_supports.jpg]]

'''Creating Stand-offs:'''

Cut the joint bead to fit the gap between roof ribs (5 lengths) as pictured above. They sit slightly higher than roof ribs but the curve of the panel makes these perfect. Measure panel length and stick stand-offs down with blobs of sealant leaving sufficient gap for any moisture to escape in the future. Outside standoffs should fit flush with panel for a neat job (see pics). These outside edges can be made even tidier if you stick upvc strips to partially close them off. I didn't bother.

Allow to dry for 36 hours.

'''Fixing panel:'''

Fix panel with sealant, using bricks if needed to flatten edges of panel down. Clean off excess and use some kind of adhesive cable clips to tidy wires. Again, allow to dry for 36 hours.

[[File:Solartintop2.jpg]]

'''Cables:'''

Inside, connect battery to charge controller then connect panel. Follow the instructions carefully.

The only thing I would add is that inside the B-pillar theres an inner and outer skin and as I discovered (after faffing for an age trying to get the cable down there), you can easily end up going down the narrow gap between them rather than straight down the pillar and theres a partial obstruction about two foot down. It'll go down there ok but does need some fettling to get past obstruction before it does. If you look inside the B-pillar via the fresh air vent hole near seat belt mount, you can see/feel the end of this outer skin towards the outside. It won't assist with getting past obstruction but will give you an idea where cable might appear. I could give the dimensions for drilling if you get to that point but basically you follow the slight curve upwards of the B-pillar and drill right above it straight down through the roof. I didn't use a rubber grommet due to the two thicknesses of steel so just sealed it with silicone. It did the job and is watertight.

I did originally consider drilling beneath the solar panel so the cable vanished completely, and along an inner roof rib, but apart from having to remove headlining, that could prove to be a problem if you needed access in the future. Originally, the panel cable connectors loop outside the panel (again for access) facing rearwards and were held there with a couple of self adhesive cable clips (available in black or white), to stop them moving around. However, this looked incredibly untidy so I dispensed with the standard connectors and instead fed the cables into a caravan junction box. I used extra silicone sealant to the lid to ensure a watertigh fit. See photo below:

[[File:cablebox.JPG]]

The side edges of the panel (ie part visible when standing next to camper) were capped off with two short lengths of narrow cable conduit. I made sure that should any moisture work its way under panel, it can escape beneath the small gaps I left under standoffs I stuck down to support panel.

[[File:Solartintop5.jpg]]

'''Upgrades:''

I subsequently added an additional panel to make it 200watts. In Summer this is excessive and I find they will charge both batteries before 9am. In Winter this will take longer but with 200 watts, it does help things along.

Time-wise it took over four days as the standoffs needed to set (36 hours) and you'll need some weight on edges of panel when you silicone that down, plus any filling you might need. I used bricks to hold edges down to be honest. Weekend perfect time to do that. You can use ducktape (duct tape I know, but best to hold ducks down in my view) to hold some fiddly bits in place while silicone sets, but it does leave the adhesive behind when you remove it so expect some cleaning up. WD40 and a rag will remove adhesive residue including odd bits of silicone - eventually.

One tube of builders silicone is enough to do the whole job. Mind you, thats how I did it but there are other ways I should think.

These kits come with a very simple controller using LEDs to indicate state of charge but if you want to monitor whats going on (ie volts, amps & wattage from panel or from controller), these are cheap enough (wattmeter) on ebay and are useful thing in a camper anyway to see what any item (stereo, propex etc etc is drawing). They are accurate to about 3%.

[[File:Solartintop4.jpg]]

Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop

2018-03-04T22:27:45Z

CovKid: /* Solar panel on a tintop */

===Solar panel on a tintop===

[[File:Solartintop3.jpg]]

(Covkid)

In my view, 150 watt should be the absolute minimum on a camper OR tintop. Heres why.

In the winter months where direct sunlight becomes somewhat scarce, the output from a small panel can sink to an almost insignificant level and that matters when you need to keep your batteries trickle charged. I now run two panels (200 watts total) which is overkill in Summer but perfect over winter as the greater wattage helps build in a degree of redundancy (fit and forget).

My batteries remain FULLY charged regardless of weather, all year round. 150 watt would also be fine. 100 watts or less and you'll be ok in Summer (just) but there will be little if any real output in Winter. I'm not talking about the science involved, this is just purely my experience of running solar. Fit more than you think you'll need unless you want to be chasing the sun all day. Don't consider something like a 20 watt or 50 watt if you want to get into solar - the money saved is soon overtaken by frustration and disappointment!

The reduced height of a tintop is good on most car parks, but they do pose their own problems when it comes to attaching solar panels as the roof is far from flat. A rigid panel with a frame is one possibility although if mounted flat they do tend to pool with water, which needs to be cleared, and it requires far more thought (though possible) in terms of fixing - ie drilling holes or buying extra material and gutter clamps. Flexible solar panels however, offer a quick and easy way to add solar power but the roof ribs do prevent you from fixing the panel down directly so you'll need to bridge the gap with stand-offs as follows:

'''Materials:'''

100 watt flexible solar kit (around the £140 mark). Mine had the connections on the underside which made it easier to hide wiring.

Builders exterior grade silicone sealant (clear) - about £3 (Silkoflex etc is way too messy for this and the silicone is strong stuff).

Wickes PVCU white cladding joint bead (2500m length) - £2.99 (Perfect for the stand-offs). Its a sort of girder-shaped form factor.

'''Planning:'''

You must plan ahead. Measure the panel carefully. Compare it to spacing between roof ribs and think it through. Decide where you're going to run the cable first. I can't advise on this since its your vehicle. I drilled into roof just above B pillar and fed it down and out through the interior at the bottom, but you may want to route another way.

Make sure you TEST everything works before you begin fixing down the panel. You won't get your money back if its faulty and stuck down! Read the instructions carefully.

[[File:Tintop_supports.jpg]]

'''Creating Stand-offs:'''

Cut the joint bead to fit the gap between roof ribs (5 lengths) as pictured above. They sit slightly higher than roof ribs but the curve of the panel makes these perfect. Measure panel length and stick stand-offs down with blobs of sealant leaving sufficient gap for any moisture to escape in the future. Outside standoffs should fit flush with panel for a neat job (see pics). These outside edges can be made even tidier if you stick upvc strips to partially close them off. I didn't bother.

Allow to dry for 36 hours.

'''Fixing panel:'''

Fix panel with sealant, using bricks if needed to flatten edges of panel down. Clean off excess and use some kind of adhesive cable clips to tidy wires. Again, allow to dry for 36 hours.

[[File:Solartintop2.jpg]]

'''Cables:'''

Inside, connect battery to charge controller then connect panel. Follow the instructions carefully.

The only thing I would add is that inside the B-pillar theres an inner and outer skin and as I discovered (after faffing for an age trying to get the cable down there), you can easily end up going down the narrow gap between them rather than straight down the pillar and theres a partial obstruction about two foot down. It'll go down there ok but does need some fettling to get past obstruction before it does. If you look inside the B-pillar via the fresh air vent hole near seat belt mount, you can see/feel the end of this outer skin towards the outside. It won't assist with getting past obstruction but will give you an idea where cable might appear. I could give the dimensions for drilling if you get to that point but basically you follow the slight curve upwards of the B-pillar and drill right above it straight down through the roof. I didn't use a rubber grommet due to the two thicknesses of steel so just sealed it with silicone. It did the job and is watertight.

I did originally consider drilling beneath the solar panel so the cable vanished completely, and along an inner roof rib, but apart from having to remove headlining, that could prove to be a problem if you needed access in the future. Originally, the panel cable connectors loop outside the panel (again for access) facing rearwards and were held there with a couple of self adhesive cable clips (available in black or white), to stop them moving around. However, this looked incredibly untidy so I dispensed with the standard connectors and instead fed the cables into a caravan junction box. I used extra silicone sealant to the lid to ensure a watertigh fit. See photo below:

[[File:cablebox.JPG]]

The side edges of the panel (ie part visible when standing next to camper) were capped off with two short lengths of narrow cable conduit. I made sure that should any moisture work its way under panel, it can escape beneath the small gaps I left under standoffs I stuck down to support panel.

[[File:Solartintop5.jpg]]

'''Upgrades:''

I subsequently added an additional panel to make it 200watts. In Summer this is excessive and I find they will charge both batteries before 9am. In Winter this will take longer but with 200 watts, it does help things along.

Time-wise it took over four days as the standoffs needed to set (36 hours) and you'll need some weight on edges of panel when you silicone that down, plus any filling you might need. I used bricks to hold edges down to be honest. Weekend perfect time to do that. You can use ducktape (duct tape I know, but best to hold ducks down in my view) to hold some fiddly bits in place while silicone sets, but it does leave the adhesive behind when you remove it so expect some cleaning up. WD40 and a rag will remove adhesive residue including odd bits of silicone - eventually.

One tube of builders silicone is enough to do the whole job. Mind you, thats how I did it but there are other ways I should think.

These kits come with a very simple controller using LEDs to indicate state of charge but if you want to monitor whats going on (ie volts, amps & wattage from panel or from controller), these are cheap enough (wattmeter) on ebay and are useful thing in a camper anyway to see what any item (stereo, propex etc etc is drawing). They are accurate to about 3%.

[[File:Solartintop4.jpg]]

Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop

2018-03-04T22:24:35Z

CovKid: /* Solar panel on a tintop */

===Solar panel on a tintop===

[[File:Solartintop3.jpg]]

(Covkid)

In my view, 150 watt should be the absolute minimum on a camper OR tintop. Heres why. In the winter months where direct sunlight becomes somewhat scarce, the output from a small panel can sink to an almost insignificant level and that matters when you need to keep your batteries trickle charged. I now run two panels (200 watts total) which is overkill in Summer but perfect over winter as the greater wattage helps build in a degree of redundancy. Both batteries remain FULLY charged regardless of weather. 150 watt would also be fine. !00 watts or less and you'll be ok in Summer (just) but there will be little if any real output in Winter. I'm not talking about the science involved, this is just purely my experience of running solar. Fit more than you think you'll need unless you want to be chasing the sun all day.

The reduced height of a tintop is good on most car parks, but they do pose their own problems when it comes to attaching solar panels as the roof is far from flat. A rigid panel with a frame is one possibility although if mounted flat they do tend to pool with water, which needs to be cleared, and it requires far more thought (though possible) in terms of fixing - ie drilling holes or buying extra material and gutter clamps. Flexible solar panels however, offer a quick and easy way to add solar power but the roof ribs do prevent you from fixing the panel down directly so you'll need to bridge the gap with stand-offs as follows:

'''Materials:'''

100 watt flexible solar kit (around the £140 mark). Mine had the connections on the underside which made it easier to hide wiring.

Builders exterior grade silicone sealant (clear) - about £3 (Silkoflex etc is way too messy for this and the silicone is strong stuff).

Wickes PVCU white cladding joint bead (2500m length) - £2.99 (Perfect for the stand-offs). Its a sort of girder-shaped form factor.

'''Planning:'''

You must plan ahead. Measure the panel carefully. Compare it to spacing between roof ribs and think it through. Decide where you're going to run the cable first. I can't advise on this since its your vehicle. I drilled into roof just above B pillar and fed it down and out through the interior at the bottom, but you may want to route another way.

Make sure you TEST everything works before you begin fixing down the panel. You won't get your money back if its faulty and stuck down! Read the instructions carefully.

[[File:Tintop_supports.jpg]]

'''Creating Stand-offs:'''

Cut the joint bead to fit the gap between roof ribs (5 lengths) as pictured above. They sit slightly higher than roof ribs but the curve of the panel makes these perfect. Measure panel length and stick stand-offs down with blobs of sealant leaving sufficient gap for any moisture to escape in the future. Outside standoffs should fit flush with panel for a neat job (see pics). These outside edges can be made even tidier if you stick upvc strips to partially close them off. I didn't bother.

Allow to dry for 36 hours.

'''Fixing panel:'''

Fix panel with sealant, using bricks if needed to flatten edges of panel down. Clean off excess and use some kind of adhesive cable clips to tidy wires. Again, allow to dry for 36 hours.

[[File:Solartintop2.jpg]]

'''Cables:'''

Inside, connect battery to charge controller then connect panel. Follow the instructions carefully.

The only thing I would add is that inside the B-pillar theres an inner and outer skin and as I discovered (after faffing for an age trying to get the cable down there), you can easily end up going down the narrow gap between them rather than straight down the pillar and theres a partial obstruction about two foot down. It'll go down there ok but does need some fettling to get past obstruction before it does. If you look inside the B-pillar via the fresh air vent hole near seat belt mount, you can see/feel the end of this outer skin towards the outside. It won't assist with getting past obstruction but will give you an idea where cable might appear. I could give the dimensions for drilling if you get to that point but basically you follow the slight curve upwards of the B-pillar and drill right above it straight down through the roof. I didn't use a rubber grommet due to the two thicknesses of steel so just sealed it with silicone. It did the job and is watertight.

I did originally consider drilling beneath the solar panel so the cable vanished completely, and along an inner roof rib, but apart from having to remove headlining, that could prove to be a problem if you needed access in the future. Originally, the panel cable connectors loop outside the panel (again for access) facing rearwards and were held there with a couple of self adhesive cable clips (available in black or white), to stop them moving around. However, this looked incredibly untidy so I dispensed with the standard connectors and instead fed the cables into a caravan junction box. I used extra silicone sealant to the lid to ensure a watertigh fit. See photo below:

[[File:cablebox.JPG]]

The side edges of the panel (ie part visible when standing next to camper) were capped off with two short lengths of narrow cable conduit. I made sure that should any moisture work its way under panel, it can escape beneath the small gaps I left under standoffs I stuck down to support panel.

[[File:Solartintop5.jpg]]

'''Upgrades:''

I subsequently added an additional panel to make it 200watts. In Summer this is excessive and I find they will charge both batteries before 9am. In Winter this will take longer but with 200 watts, it does help things along.

Time-wise it took over four days as the standoffs needed to set (36 hours) and you'll need some weight on edges of panel when you silicone that down, plus any filling you might need. I used bricks to hold edges down to be honest. Weekend perfect time to do that. You can use ducktape (duct tape I know, but best to hold ducks down in my view) to hold some fiddly bits in place while silicone sets, but it does leave the adhesive behind when you remove it so expect some cleaning up. WD40 and a rag will remove adhesive residue including odd bits of silicone - eventually.

One tube of builders silicone is enough to do the whole job. Mind you, thats how I did it but there are other ways I should think.

These kits come with a very simple controller using LEDs to indicate state of charge but if you want to monitor whats going on (ie volts, amps & wattage from panel or from controller), these are cheap enough (wattmeter) on ebay and are useful thing in a camper anyway to see what any item (stereo, propex etc etc is drawing). They are accurate to about 3%.

[[File:Solartintop4.jpg]]

Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop

2018-03-04T22:22:19Z

CovKid: /* Solar panel on a tintop */

===Solar panel on a tintop===

[[File:Solartintop3.jpg]]

(Covkid)

In my view, 150 watt should be the absolute minimum on a camper OR tintop. Heres why. In the winter months where direct sunlight becomes somewhat scarce, the output from a small panel can sink to an almost insignificant level and that matters when you need to keep your batteries trickle charged. I run 200 watts which is overkill in Summer but perfect over winter as the greater wattage helps build in a degree of redundancy. Both batteries remain FULLY charged regardless of weather. 150 watt would also be fine. !00 watts or less and you'll be ok in Summer (just) but there will be little if any real output in Winter. I'm not talking about the science involved, this is just purely my experience of running solar. Fit more than you think you'll need unless you want to be chasing the sun all day.

The reduced height of a tintop is good on most car parks, but they do pose their own problems when it comes to attaching solar panels as the roof is far from flat. A rigid panel with a frame is one possibility although if mounted flat they do tend to pool with water, which needs to be cleared, and it requires far more thought (though possible) in terms of fixing - ie drilling holes or buying extra material and gutter clamps. Flexible solar panels however, offer a quick and easy way to add solar power but the roof ribs do prevent you from fixing the panel down directly so you'll need to bridge the gap with stand-offs as follows:

'''Materials:'''

100 watt flexible solar kit (around the £140 mark). Mine had the connections on the underside which made it easier to hide wiring.

Builders exterior grade silicone sealant (clear) - about £3 (Silkoflex etc is way too messy for this and the silicone is strong stuff).

Wickes PVCU white cladding joint bead (2500m length) - £2.99 (Perfect for the stand-offs). Its a sort of girder-shaped form factor.

'''Planning:'''

You must plan ahead. Measure the panel carefully. Compare it to spacing between roof ribs and think it through. Decide where you're going to run the cable first. I can't advise on this since its your vehicle. I drilled into roof just above B pillar and fed it down and out through the interior at the bottom, but you may want to route another way.

Make sure you TEST everything works before you begin fixing down the panel. You won't get your money back if its faulty and stuck down! Read the instructions carefully.

[[File:Tintop_supports.jpg]]

'''Creating Stand-offs:'''

Cut the joint bead to fit the gap between roof ribs (5 lengths) as pictured above. They sit slightly higher than roof ribs but the curve of the panel makes these perfect. Measure panel length and stick stand-offs down with blobs of sealant leaving sufficient gap for any moisture to escape in the future. Outside standoffs should fit flush with panel for a neat job (see pics). These outside edges can be made even tidier if you stick upvc strips to partially close them off. I didn't bother.

Allow to dry for 36 hours.

'''Fixing panel:'''

Fix panel with sealant, using bricks if needed to flatten edges of panel down. Clean off excess and use some kind of adhesive cable clips to tidy wires. Again, allow to dry for 36 hours.

[[File:Solartintop2.jpg]]

'''Cables:'''

Inside, connect battery to charge controller then connect panel. Follow the instructions carefully.

The only thing I would add is that inside the B-pillar theres an inner and outer skin and as I discovered (after faffing for an age trying to get the cable down there), you can easily end up going down the narrow gap between them rather than straight down the pillar and theres a partial obstruction about two foot down. It'll go down there ok but does need some fettling to get past obstruction before it does. If you look inside the B-pillar via the fresh air vent hole near seat belt mount, you can see/feel the end of this outer skin towards the outside. It won't assist with getting past obstruction but will give you an idea where cable might appear. I could give the dimensions for drilling if you get to that point but basically you follow the slight curve upwards of the B-pillar and drill right above it straight down through the roof. I didn't use a rubber grommet due to the two thicknesses of steel so just sealed it with silicone. It did the job and is watertight.

I did originally consider drilling beneath the solar panel so the cable vanished completely, and along an inner roof rib, but apart from having to remove headlining, that could prove to be a problem if you needed access in the future. Originally, the panel cable connectors loop outside the panel (again for access) facing rearwards and were held there with a couple of self adhesive cable clips (available in black or white), to stop them moving around. However, this looked incredibly untidy so I dispensed with the standard connectors and instead fed the cables into a caravan junction box. I used extra silicone sealant to the lid to ensure a watertigh fit. See photo below:

[[File:cablebox.JPG]]

The side edges of the panel (ie part visible when standing next to camper) were capped off with two short lengths of narrow cable conduit. I made sure that should any moisture work its way under panel, it can escape beneath the small gaps I left under standoffs I stuck down to support panel.

[[File:Solartintop5.jpg]]

'''Upgrades:''

I subsequently added an additional panel to make it 200watts. In Summer this is excessive and I find they will charge both batteries before 9am. In Winter this will take longer but with 200 watts, it does help things along.

Time-wise it took over four days as the standoffs needed to set (36 hours) and you'll need some weight on edges of panel when you silicone that down, plus any filling you might need. I used bricks to hold edges down to be honest. Weekend perfect time to do that. You can use ducktape (duct tape I know, but best to hold ducks down in my view) to hold some fiddly bits in place while silicone sets, but it does leave the adhesive behind when you remove it so expect some cleaning up. WD40 and a rag will remove adhesive residue including odd bits of silicone - eventually.

One tube of builders silicone is enough to do the whole job. Mind you, thats how I did it but there are other ways I should think.

These kits come with a very simple controller using LEDs to indicate state of charge but if you want to monitor whats going on (ie volts, amps & wattage from panel or from controller), these are cheap enough (wattmeter) on ebay and are useful thing in a camper anyway to see what any item (stereo, propex etc etc is drawing). They are accurate to about 3%.

[[File:Solartintop4.jpg]]

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T10:11:31Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control, although we didn't expand the project further. However, we couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they are power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve as much as you can, particularly when stationary, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but basically, PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower faster than you could do it yourself, almost like a variable strobe, rather than all the excess current used up in heat via the resistors. If you ever played with small DC motors as a kid, you'll know that even when the power is disconnected briefly, the motor will still spin on a little, and that whats at work here - plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to flat out speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't recommend this mod with a worn out blower that is drawing massive amps, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or have to uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to do this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower unit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are are five wires that form part of the blower circuit, 12v power, brown earth, and three wires at the switch unit (see photo) that went to the resistors. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the elusive brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T09:54:38Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control, although we didn't expand the project further. However, we couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they are power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve as much as you can, particularly when stationary, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but basically, PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower faster than you could do it yourself, almost like a variable strobe, rather than all the excess current used up in heat via the resistors. If you ever played with small DC motors as a kid, you'll know that even when the power is disconnected briefly, the motor will still spin on a little, and that whats at work here - plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to flat out speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't recommend this mod with a worn out blower that is drawing massive amps, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or have to uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to do this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower unit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are three wires that come out of the blower unit (see photo) plus an earth. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T09:52:56Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control, although we didn't expand the project further. However, we couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they are power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve as much as you can, particularly when stationary, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but basically, PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower faster than you could do it yourself, almost like a variable strobe, rather than all the excess current used up in heat via the resistors. If you ever played with small DC motors as a kid, you'll know that even when the power is disconnected briefly, the motor will still spin on a little, and that whats at work here - plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to flat out speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't really recommend this mod with a worn out blower, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to try this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower uinit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are three wires that come out of the blower unit (see photo) plus an earth. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T09:51:07Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control, although we didn't expand the project further. However, we couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they tend to be power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve power as much as you can, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but basically, PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower faster than you could do it yourself, almost like a variable strobe, rather than all the excess current used up in heat via the resistors. If you ever played with small DC motors as a kid, you'll know that even when the power is disconnected briefly, the motor will still spin on a little, and that whats at work here - plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to flat out speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't really recommend this mod with a worn out blower, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to try this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower uinit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are three wires that come out of the blower unit (see photo) plus an earth. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T09:50:08Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control. We couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they tend to be power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve power as much as you can, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but basically, PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower faster than you could do it yourself, almost like a variable strobe, rather than all the excess current used up in heat via the resistors. If you ever played with small DC motors as a kid, you'll know that even when the power is disconnected briefly, the motor will still spin on a little, and that whats at work here - plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to flat out speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't really recommend this mod with a worn out blower, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to try this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower uinit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are three wires that come out of the blower unit (see photo) plus an earth. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade

2017-12-24T09:43:57Z

CovKid:

(Article penned by Covkid 04/08/2016)

'''Why fit a PWM controller to the dash fan and what is PWM?'''

This project came about through early discussions with Ghost123UK. We concluded (on the maths alone) that controlling the fan using pulse width modulation (PWM) would be far more efficient than using the resistors that VW fitted, and potentially form part of a basic climate control. We couldn't see why PWM wouldn't work on the blower motor and as you'll see below - it does. I have since posted a two-part summary on Youtube.

A PWM controller also works out cheaper to buy than replacing the resistors and is much less taxing on cables and battery), arguably less of a fire risk, and you get infinite control right up to the flat out speed of the motor rather than thew click-notch control fitted as standard. Car manufacturers tended to use resistors (and some still do today) as they're cheaper to produce, but they tend to be power-hungry and can get very hot. This probably matters less in a car, but in a camper its important to conserve power as much as you can, even if its the starter battery.

I'll skip the science, but PWM involves the power being switched on and off to the blower at high speed, almost like a variable strobe, rather than excess current used up in heat via the resistors. With PWM, the lower the speed, the less amps are being used plus there is the luxury of being able to set any speed you want from zero to full speed.

Some time ago I put up a video summary to show how it works using a brand new blower motor. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs

I don't really recommend this mod with a worn out blower, but rather with a new one, or one in good working order. Old electric motos can draw considerably more power just to start them up which is why some owners experience a blown fuse or uprate the fuse to compensate - not a good move. If yours is close to 30 years old, it is due for replacement, at which point you may wish to try this upgrade at the same time. It has little impact on cosmetics. If your blower uinit is in good condition, you can fit a PWM controller with the dash in place fairly easily.

'''Where can I buy a suitable controller?'''

I bought my DC PWM controller from ebay for well under ten pounds. You'll need to search. You want a 20amp one (for headroom) and it needs the control knob on a flylead so you can mount it through the facia. Its actually a simple circuit but you do have to find the relevant wires to connect it all up..

Heres the basic setup (uninstalled). The blower fan (left) is hooked up to the controller box (right) and the speed is controlled by the small potentiometer (bottom right).

[[File:Pwmcontroller2.jpg]]

To install one (see photo below), and completely bypass the resistors, you'll need to get to the relevant cables.

[[File:Pwmcontroller1.jpg]]

'''Identifying blower cables'''

There are a couple of things you need to bear in mind when connecting the PWM controller. Firstly, on a 3-speed blower, there are three wires that come out of the blower unit (see photo) plus an earth. If you cut these wires at the blower switch and remove switch completely, you can then pull them up via the ashtray and follow the cable bundle further down to the blower box and locate the brown earth wire - you'll need this. I managed fine peering down there with a torch.

You'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the ashtray and the blower facia by pulling off the lever knobs and carefully prising off the facia. This will expose the speed control which can be unclipped and the three wires behind, cut off. Theres also a red/black wire which is the power to the fan.

[[File:Colourpwm.jpg]]

The blower wires you actually need to make controller work are the yellow one (which is top speed) and the brown earth. Both of these MUST go direct to the output of the controller. If you don't connect them both directly to the controller output, it will NOT work. The controller needs them both - all to itself. The yellow cable is actually the one wire that doesn't depend on the resisors, which is what we want. The other two, yellow/black (speed 2) and grey (speed 1) are not needed as the controller will be handling lower speeds from now on. You can snip those two and tape them up.

'''Adequate patch cables'''

The other point to bear in mind is that any patch cables you use MUST be at least as thick as the yellow wire as it carries some current and if you use thinner wire it WILL heat up and could cause a fire so make sure all cables including negative wires are up to the job. Get this right from the start. Yellow to positive output, brown to negative output.

'''Applying power'''

Once those two cables are connected to controller, you need to get power to it. I recommend you find a point at fusebox that is ONLY live with ignition on. You're hardly likely to need the blower when parked (even though VW appears to have wired it like that) and besides without the engine running it would soon flatten your battery so choose an ignition live connection. If you really need cool air when parked, a USB-powered fan is a better idea anyway. That way with ignition off, the fan and controller get no power whatsoever and are therefore isolated. Connect this ignition live cable to the + terminal on controller input.

You can soon find an ignition live at the fusebox, by seeing which fuseway is live when you turn the ignition key to first position, although you may find a closer connection if you're lucky.

Unlike the output, The earth on the input can come direct from the chassis - or wherever is convenient. The controller can sit on top of or to the side of the stereo unit. You can mount it in there if you like or just ensure it can't move around but does at least have some space around it for airflow. The controller knob cable can then be fed under the dash blower levers and pulled through the hole where the old switch used to be.

Photo below should help you decipher the Chinese symbols if you're unsure. On the left, yellow and brown (to fan), and on the right your 12v (ignition live) source. Ignore the colours I've used here for the fan as it was while I tested the unit.

[[File:Pwmcontroller8.jpg]]

At this point, with battery reconnected and ignition on, the controller knob should work. Time for a celebratory cuppa that only the Brits understand!

[[File:Pwmcontroller9.jpg]]

'''Mounting control knob'''

Tea drunk, plus a few biscuits, now for the trickier bit. To fit control knob, you could just make a hole elsewhere in the dash but I wanted to at least mount it in the same place.

[[File:Faciapwm.jpg]]

There are two ways you could do it but usually the shaft on the control knob is rather short, and certainly too short to go though the complete thickness of the facia which is in four parts. You could (in theory) desolder the potentiometer and find an exact match with a longer shaft but this could prove extremely difficult. The other way is to alter the back of the blower control facia to accept it. I opted for this method.

The facia is four distinct layers. They can be taken apart and adapted to suit without affecting the outward appearance at all.

From the back they are:

1. Bulb holder layer

2. Clear plastic light spreader

3. Printed layer

4. Black plastic facia

See photo below.

[[File:Facialayers.jpg]]

Getting the four layers apart (they are partially glued) will take patience and a flat blade. Don't bend them too much or you may risk cracking them. Take your time and work in good light on a table - not in the cab!

The reason you need to separate them is the back and central perspex layer will require minor cutting to accept the control knob assembly as one, and that will leave just enough room to attach the washer and nut on the front. If you try to cut through without doing this, you risk damaging the printed layer or facia. This was about the neatest arrangement I could come up with on the bench although you may come up with an alternative method.

The clear plastic layer was originally intended to be used as a backlit affair - essentially a piece of perspex lit by a bulb. Where the bulb meets the clear plastic, you'll see its been split and chamfered to direct the light along the plastic - in much the same way you can light the edge of a perspex sheet with LEDs these days - albeit with a tungsten bulb.

I have to say, unless you use an incredibly bright bulb (and at risk of melting the plastic), its not a particularly effective backlight at all, although perhaps in pitch black it is good enough and LEDs generally run at much lower temperatures.

Back to fitting control knob!

See following photos for reference. I haven't been specific by including measurements as your control knob assembly may be different from mine but the principles remain the same.

A dremel-type tool makes much easier work of it but I managed fine by scoring the plastic with a sharp knife and nibbling it away with pliers. You'll need to cut through the back layer as well as the clear plastic layer, just enough so the control knob assembly fits in there and butts up square against the printed and facia layers.

[[File:Pwmcontroller3.jpg]]

This is the front (below). I actually like the knob that came with it as it matches the blue on the facia perfectly but you could fit what you like.

[[File:Pwmcontroller4.jpg]]

Feeding the control knob plugs through the original controller hole in the dash.

[[File:Pwmcontroller5.jpg]]

Plugs connected, the whole panel is ready to refit. Use a little glue to ensure the back layer isn't loose.

[[File:Pwmcontroller6.jpg]]

Facia panel refitted.

[[File:Pwmcontroller7.jpg]]

I couldn't find a reliable way to reuse the original knob since its an entirely different fitting and araldite did not appeal to me in the slightest. However, for the complete purist, I'm sure its possible to do this.

Ensure that the printed circuit on the control knob assembly does not foul the metal dash. Insulate it well and if required, cut a slightly larger hole where the original switch went to give a little more clearance. Ensure controller is protected by a fuse. 15amp should do it. If you're using an existing blower that will only work with something like a 25amp fuse, its time it was replaced I'm afraid. You will probably kill the PWM controller otherwise.

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T23:18:04Z

CovKid: /* Stuck float valve */

==Stuck float valve==

Penned by Covkid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, allows fuel to flow into float bowl. then as the float rises, it redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if the carb has been dry for a while, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel entirely.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get a few seconds running and then the engine will die and refuse to restart. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. You may need to bend this hook slightly further over to ensure it stays attached to float arm. To remove arm and gain acces to the valvbe, knock through the small brass shaft that holds the float in place with a small punch or screwdriver. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

The hook is VERY important. Without it, float valve can stick and it won't let fuel in when it should. Most earlier volkswagens with solex carbs used a float valve that relied on gravity more than anything. Much simpler. I'm not quite sure why the Pierburg was fitted with a valve like this. It seems rather over-engineered for the job it does.

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T23:16:38Z

CovKid: /* Stuck float valve */

==Stuck float valve==

Penned by Covkid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, allows fuel to flow into float bowl. then as the float rises, it redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if the carb has been dry for a while, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel entirely.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get a few seconds running and then the engine will die and refuse to restart. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. You may need to bend this hook slightly further over to ensure it stays attached to float arm. To remove arm and gain acces to the valvbe, knock through the small brass shaft that holds the float in place with a small punch or screwdriver. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

The hook is VERY important. Without it, float valve cam stick and it won't let fuel in when bowl is empty. Most earlier volkswagens with solex carbs used a float valve that relied on gravity more than anything. Much simpler. I'm not quite sure why the Pierburg fitted a valve like this. It seems rather over-engineered for the job it does.

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T23:14:10Z

CovKid: /* Stuck float valve */

==Stuck float valve==

Penned by Covkid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, allows fuel to flow into float bowl. then as the float rises, it redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if the carb has been dry for a while, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel entirely.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get a few seconds running and then the engine will die and refuse to restart. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. You may need to bend this hook slightly further over to ensure it stays attached to float arm. To remove arm and gain acces to the valvbe, knock through the small brass shaft that holds the float in place with a small punch or screwdriver. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

The hook is VERY important. Without it, float won't pull the valve down (and let fuel in) when bowl is empty. Most earlier volkswagens with solex carbs used a float valve that relied on gravity more than anything. I'm not quite sure why the Pierburg fitted a valve like this. It seems rather over-engineered for the job it does.

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:55:17Z

CovKid: /* Stuck float valve */

==Stuck float valve==

Penned by Covkid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, allows fuel to flow into float bowl. then as the float rises, it redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if the carb has been dry for a while, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel entirely.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get a few seconds running and then the engine will die and refuse to restart. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. You may need to bend this hook slightly further over to ensure it stays attached to float arm. To remove arm and gain acces to the valvbe, knock through the small brass shaft that holds the float in place with a small punch or screwdriver. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

The hook is VERY important. Without it, float won't pull the valve down (and let fuel in) when bowl is empty.

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:40:00Z

CovKid: /* Stuck float valve */

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:35:49Z

CovKid:

==Stuck float valve==

Penned by Covkid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if carb has been dry, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get twenty seconds running and then the engine will die. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:34:50Z

CovKid:

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if carb has been dry, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get twenty seconds running and then the engine will die. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

[[File:float2a.jpg]]

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

[[File:float1a.jpg]]

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:34:23Z

CovKid:

File:Float2a.jpg

2017-10-27T15:32:32Z

CovKid:

File:Float1a.jpg

2017-10-27T15:32:00Z

CovKid:

Fuel system - Runs then dies

2017-10-27T15:29:09Z

CovKid: Created page with 'Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float val…'

Apart from the more obvious (although harder to spot) blockages in jets etc, a common problem if the vehicle has been stood for some time is a sticking float valve. The float valve, in normal operation, redirects excess fuel to the fuel return pipe once the float bowl is full. However, if carb has been dry, deposits can foul the float valve leaving it stuck fast or the small metal hook on the valve that is attached to the float, becomes detached, effectively stopping the flow of fuel.

At the driver end this either manifests itself as a non-start situation, or at most you'll get twenty seconds running and then the engine will die. The carburettor is being denied fuel.

Note these two photos

The first one shows the float valve with the small wire hook, and the second one shows the hook attached to float arm. If the float valve looks rough along the sides, you can lightly dress it with fine emery cloth but DO NOT touch the the pointed end or you'll ruin the seal and potentially cause flooding.

Main Page

2017-10-27T15:20:18Z

CovKid: /* Petrol */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== NEW USERS START HERE, READ THE DISCLAIMER==

'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

'''Club 80-90 Wiki History'''

Started in around 2005 after we moved from an older bulletin board that had been outgrown by the size of the club. A group of long standing club members decided to retain some of the helpful information on the technical pages that would otherwise get lost as the forum was pruned from time to time. Some of the information is basic vehicle mechanics for those that are just starting out. Some is advanced that you will need an extensive toolset to achieve. Some of it you could find in a Hayne's or Bentley manual and sometimes there are fixes that have not been documented and issues that VW had no repair as these vehicles have long since lasted beyond the working life that VW intended them to achieve. This is a collection of postings on 80-90 over the years and has grown to quite a size, some by professional mechanics and some by novices and all levels of knowledge in between. Ultimately it is to be used along side other forums and manuals to give you another viewpoint on how to solve or fix a problem, but usually with a real persons perspective and photographs to help out. It is not meant to be gospel and it is a living work in progress, articles and advice may change as knowledge grows over time. It may be contradictory in parts as different people have different ideas on the best way to perform a procedure. You may need to use some gut instinct and common sense to tell you which way to proceed, there may be a way to do something which hasn't been thought of, or they may be incorrect information which is out of date. The two main wiki editors are HarryMann and Hacksawbob (usernames on Club 80-90) Send a private message to them if you spot something that needs changing. If you have something to add write it up in the Club 80-90 Technical section in the appropriate section and PM an editor to make them aware of it.

------

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting or duplication. Please PM Hacksawbob or HarryMann if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Club 80-90 Wiki en Français==
[[French language pages|French Language pages]]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Some club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights. Please PM HarryMann if you are a seasoned Wiki editor with valuable T3/T25 content to add. Particularly we are looking for those with experience of the early aircooleds, esepcially the carburrettion, ignition and tuning aspects.

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, either due to typos in the internal links, or other reasons)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New or Prospective Owner? =

==* Warnings - Must Read *==
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fire warning - Aircooled - Carb fuel leaks]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings| Gearbox /Transaxle /Diff oil levels]]
*[[Petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Parts quality - Keep old (removed) parts]]

==Guides==
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like? How to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[A newbies buying experience|A newbies buying experience]]

==Tips and tricks and basic servicing==
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions (FAQ)]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance|Gearchange reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving difficult/sloppy gearchange]]
*[[Petrol engines oil change|Petrol engines - Oil & oil changes]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners All engines servicing overview|All engines servicing overview]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines (Watercooled)==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*[[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
*[[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]

*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
**[[petrol engines - Pierburg Choke|Pierburg Choke Mechanism]]

*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1 (incl. Vanagon syndrome)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 MV|2.1 MV specific]]
**[[petrol engines Bad idling 2.1|Bad idling (2.1 DJ)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 ISCU|2.1 ISCU]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out|Removing 2.1 - Other jobs whilst out]]

*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition firing order|Firing order]]
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves|Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems|Vac advance/retard problems]]

*Parts, Pictures, Diagrams and lists etc.
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Inlet Manifold (1.9)|Inlet Manifold (1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Oil breather hose(1.9)|Oil breather hose(1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - petrol Cooling system diagram|petrol Cooling system diagram]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - wbx exhaust stud depth|wbx exhaust stud depth]]

==Petrol Engines (Aircooled)==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Schematic|Schematic parts layout]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|Engine removal]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled - Crankshaft oil seal|Crankshaft oil-seal (photo article, start-to-finish)]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]

*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature|Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|Solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement|Pushrod & tube seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Refitting cylinder heads|Refitting cylinder heads]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cylinder Head Damage|Cylinder head damage]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition Systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Distributors, timing and setting up]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4OmiVH2J0&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIrA4iWkhbE&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 2]
**[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|Spark plugs and HT leads]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Carburrettors and fuel system
**[[Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding]]
**[[Fuel pump - aircooleds|Fuel pump problems]]
**[[Inlet manifolds - aircooleds|Inlet manifolds]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOxxS1EMphU&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 2]

*A/C Petrol engines - Cooling and heating systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled tinware|Aircooled tinware]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating parts]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating description]]

**Hazards
**[[petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fuel leaks]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Modifications
**[[petrol engines aircooled Modifications|A/C Modifications, carbs, distributors, tuning, compatability issues]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Diagnosing faults (petrols)]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|Cylinder nos. and firing order ]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines losing water|Losing water]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines oil emulsifying|Emulsified oil (mayonnaise)]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
* [[Hydraulic lifters explained ]]
* [[petrol engines non-start|Won't start (fuel)]]
*[[petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing|Replacing spigot-shaft bearing]]
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=107122 ]

== Diesel engines ==
[[Image:Diesel engine1copy-1.jpg|thumb|JX turbo Diesel Engine]]
*[[Diesel engines Fire warning|Fire warning]]
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Types, condition diagnosis, Service Bulletins etc]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
*[[Diesel engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Adjusting tappet clearances|Adjusting tappet clearances]]
**[[Diesel Engines Auxiliary drive belts|Auxiliary drive belts]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing Belt_01|Lining-up camshaft and crankshaft]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cyl Head re-fitting|Cylinder head re-fitting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Diesel Engines 1.6 NA CS ring gaps|1.6 NA (CS) ring gaps]]

**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
**[[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Engine Damage|Diesel Engine damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft and timing pulley]]
** [[Parts - Block and pistons|Block and pistons]]
** [[Parts - Intercooler|Intercooler]]

** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]
** [[Parts - Head gasket protrusion|Head gasket protrusion]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - rear|Cyl head instr senders - rear]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - side|Cyl head instr senders - side]]
** [[Parts - JX turbo mounting position|JX turbo mounting position]]

**Diesel Engines - Modified parts
***[[Parts - Modifications - T3 turbo|T3 turbo install]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Standard Engine Mounts|Standard engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mounts|Modified engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - AAZ Non-JX Mods 01|AAZ turbo clearance mods]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Oil cooling|Oil cooling and oil coolers]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Injection pumps|Injection Pumps - Modifying]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended|Engine oils - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting Earths|Reluctant starting earths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes (DOPWS)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dipstick lengths|Dipstick lengths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Engine bay seal|Engine bay seal]]
----

==Exhausts==

*[[Exhausts Systems Petrol|Petrol Exhausts - Early/Late]]
*[[Exhausts Suppliers|Exhaust system suppliers - Part Nos & Stainless Alternatives]]
*[[Exhausts Custom|Custom exhausts]]
*[[Exhausts Rust|Exhaust rust repairs]]
*[[Exhausts Heat Pipe|DG Exhaust Heat transfer pipe]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*[[Diesel - Injectors|Diesel Injectors]]
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plugs - replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]
*[[Diesel - Fuel system Tips and Tricks|Fuel system Tips and Tricks]]
*[[Diesel - Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines| Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines]]

==Petrol==

*Common
**[[Petrol engines Fire warning|#Fire warnings# - fuel lines, tank and filler]]
**[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|#Fuel leaks# - Aircooled]]

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 Fuel hoses|Replacing 1.9 DG Fuel hoses]]
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Air leaks|Carb or manifold air-leaks]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Autochoke|Carb Autochoke setting]]
**[[Fuel system - Runs then dies|Runs then dies]]
**[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36598& Intermitten but very annoying problem (blocked jet?)]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Clearing blocked jets|Clearing blocked jets]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system tank cleaning|Tank Cleaning]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Cap|Filler/filler cap]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Cooling System==

* [[Coolant and Heating Flashing red light on dash|Flashing red low/overheating coolant light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands|Anti-freeze - Brands, specs, dilutions and capacities]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |Main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]
* [[Coolant and Heating running temperatures|Running temperatures]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 1|Replacing original front-to-rear metal pipes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 2|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 2.1]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 3|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 1.9DG]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Instrumentation malfunction|Temp gauge and sender malfunctions]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Testing radiator fan |Testing radiator fan]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Oil cooling|Oil cooling]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Header tank top and up tank|Header tank and top up tank]]

==Heating System==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|
Hot & Cold Air Blower - Diagnosis, Removal, Replacement And Modifications]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Dash blower PWM upgrade|Dash blower PWM upgrade]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Air-cooled heating system|Air-cooled heating system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Heater hoses|Heater hoses]]

*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Excellent article on improving VW a/c insulation & heating system]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic General Info|Automatics - General Information]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Oil|Gearbox oil checking/changing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Parts|Automatic gearbox - Parts and finding them]]

==Manual gearbox specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings|Gearbox ##Warnings##]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures|Clutch - pictures]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|Clutch slave cylinder replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Cutch CVs - Clutch slave-cylinder|Clutch slave-cylinder and pipework]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism|Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gear change reluctance|Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving sloppy g/c & g/c part nos.]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Gear selection process|Gear selection process]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange selection rod pictures and drawings]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel clutch change|Diesel clutch installation considerations]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox type swap|Gearbox type swap (425 & 524)]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket|Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket - Breakage]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox corrosion prevention]]
*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common gearbox i.e. automatic and manual==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|Diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]
*[http://www.rjes.com/html/gearbox_types.html Link to RJES gearbox code chart]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]

----

= VW Electrics (not camper interior specific)=

*Electrical System
** [[VW Electrics fuse box|Main fuse box]]
** [[VW Electrics main cables|Replacing - starter - battery - alternator cable]]
** [[VW Electrics battery to dash|Upgrading power connection to dash]]
** [[Vw Electrics rear lighting wire colours|Rear lighting wire colours]]
** [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
** [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
** [[VW Electrics Diesel battery to starter cable|Diesel battery to starter cable]]
** [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors|Electric wing mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Wiring heated LT Mirrors|Wiring heated LT Mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Brake warning light|Brake warning light]]
** [[VW Electrics Windscreen Wipers|Windscreen wiper functions]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlight Upgrade|Round Headlight Upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Square Headlights|Square Headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight Adjustment|Headlight Adjustment]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternators|Alternators/Generators]]
** [[VW Electrics Ignition Coil|Ignition Coil]]
** [[VW Electrics Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges |Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges]]
** [[VW Electrics rewiring Dashboard multipin connector|Rewiring Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout |Dashboard multipin connector pinout]]
** [[VW Electrics Repairing Dashboard multipin connector|Repairing Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Barrel|Changing Ignition Barrel]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Switch|Changing Ignition Switch]]
** [[VW Electrics Understanding Components|Simple Guide to Electronic components]]

*Troubleshooting
** [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
** [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
** [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
** [http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]

*Upgrades and Modifications
** [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent wipers]]
** [[VW Electrics Upgrading headlights|Upgrading headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlights To Square|Round Headlights To Square]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
** [[VW Electrics Rear fog lights|Rear fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics front fog lights|Front fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control illumination]]
** [[VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade|Dash Fan Control Upgrade)]]
** [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator sizes|Alternator size formula & tutorial]]
** [[VW Electrics LED Number plate light|LED Number plate light]]
** [[VW Electrics 12 volt live feed only when engine running|12 volt live feed only when engine running]]
** [[VW Electrics Stereo feed from both batteries|Stereo feed from both batteries]]
** [[VW Electrics Adding an independent or new horn|Adding an independent or new horn]]
** [[VW Electrics Smooth 12v/5v supply|Smooth 12v/5v supply]]

*Pictures, Diagrams, Lists
**[[Petrol engine wiring|Petrol Engine Wiring]]
**[[Diesel engine wiring|Diesel Engine Wiring]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator 90 Amp Wiring|90 Amp Alternator Wiring]]

----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing control arm bushes | Replacing control arm bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
* [[Steering and suspension Radius-rod and bushes|Radius-rod and bushes]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering|Power steering]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering Universal Joint Replacement|power steering Universal Joint Replacement]]
* [[Steering and suspension Steering shaft joints|Steering shaft joints]]
* [[Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers|Replacing shock absorbers (with Sachs HD)]]
* [[Steering and suspension replace steering rack boot|replace steering rack boot]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=

*[[Wheels and tyres - Tyres|Tyres]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels|Alternative wheels]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and tyres Wheel offset (ET)|Wheel offset (ET) explained ]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Speedometer Cable|Speedometer Cable]]
----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes front caliper replacement|front caliper replacement]]
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]
*[[Brakes Front handbrake cable| Front handbrake cable]]
*[[Brakes Rear handbrake cables| Rear handbrake cables]]
*[[Brakes poor brake performance diagnostics| poor brake performance diagnostics]]
----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

==Painting your van==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Painting |Painting - General]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Roller painting |Rollering Rustoleum - Paint your van for £50]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting|Window removal and refitting]]

==Windscreen==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen Removing|Removing windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen re-fitting|Windscreen re-fitting]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
http://campervanculture.com/2011/05/fitting-vw-t25-vanagon-t3-windscreen/

==Doors==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Doors locks|Door locks and keys]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Tailgate lock|Tailgate lock]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Sliding Door and Parts|Sliding Door and parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Door seals|Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Guide to fitting Cab Door seals|Guide to fitting Cab Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window scrapers |Window scrapers]]

==Leaks==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks| Foot-well leaks]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]

==Insulation==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation|Insulation]]

==Parts==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts|Pictures of parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts DIY|Pictures of DIY parts]]

==Rust==

===General Information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust|Rust and some treatments]]
**[[Areas that rust - General|General list of areas that rust]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting|Electrolytic de-rusting of parts]]
**[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Internal section inspection method e.g. for rust]]

===Specific areas (details, photos, articles, etc)===

**[[Areas that rust - Kitchen panel|Kitchen/fridge body side panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear chassis|Rear chassis]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member and repair]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front panel lower|Front panel lower]]
**[[Areas that rust - Cab step|Cab steps]]
**[[Areas that rust - Inner Sills|Inner Sills]]
**[[Areas that rust - Floor sliding door side|Floor - sliding door side]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front jacking points|Front jacking points]]
**[[Areas that rust - Behind VW underseal|Behind VW underseal]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front seat-belt anchors|Seat-belt anchor plates (front)]]
**[[Areas that rust - Bodypanels rear|Rear wing bodypanels]]
**[[Areas that rust - Offside outer sill|Offside (kitchen) outer sill & panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Window frames|Window frame rust repair]]
**[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173 Seriously rusty van repairs - shows many areas exposed - excellent photo journal]

===Other relevant information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
**[[Techniques - Welding|Techniques - Welding]]
**[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis Cleaning Tools]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/spoiler_fitting.html Fitting a spoiler]
* [https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207546/V796.pdf Rules on number plates]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
*[[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
*[[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|Seatbelt legality]]

==Seats==

*[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
*[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest fitting to rear seats|Headrests - Fitting to rear seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest removing|Headrests - Removing]]

==Headlining/ interior panels==
*[[Interior non camping interior panels|Interior panels]]
*[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]

==Cab Door Armrests==
*[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]

==Dashboard==
*[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
*[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Tailgate==
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate Interior latch opening| Tailgate - Interior latch opening]]

==Multimedia==
*[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

==Other==

= Campers =

==Camping Interior Cupboards, beds, etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]
* [[Camping Interior Cab bunk|Cab bunk]]
* [[Camping Interior rear hatch ventilation|Rear hatch ventilation]]
* [[Camping Interior Removing units|Removing units]]
* [[Camping Interior Useful Westfalia specific sites|Useful Westfalia specific sites]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior - Electrical Safety|Electrical Standards & Safety]]
* [[Camping Interior Westfalia leisure battery charging|Westfalia leisure battery charging]]
* Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams
**[[Camping Interior Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams Holdsworth Villa| Holdsworth Villa]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping Interior TV Installation|Installing a TV]]
* [[Camping Interior Hookup Schemes|Mains Hookup - Schemes and Safety]]
* [[Camping interior Solar power charging systems|Solar power charging systems]]
* [[Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop|Solar panel fitted to a tintop]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries|Facts about auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat|Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units|Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery|Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|Lighting]]

* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]
* [[Camping Interior Towing connections|Towing connections]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Webasto|Webasto]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]
*[[Camping Interior Insulation|Insulation]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge removal|Fridge removal]]
* [[Camping interior fridge servicing/Maintenance|Fridge servicing & maintenance]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Cooking suggestions and recipes]]
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Calor Gas facts]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]

==Gas==
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Gas information]]
----

==Camping Exterior Campers exterior ,roofs, windows, skylights, awnings etc==
* [[Camping Exterior Westfalia|Westfalia]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting pop-top|Fitting a pop-top]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]
* [[Camping Exterior stop the drip |Stop the drip]]
* [[Camping Exterior Hightop side windows |Hightop side windows]]

* [[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]

==Conversions==

*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)|Danbury Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)]]
*[http://www.80-90.co.uk/techhelp/pdfs/Westy.PDF Westy camper plans in pdf format (German) - Thanks to Aberdeenbus]

==Karmann Coachbuilts==

[http://www.vwcampervanblog.com/the-rare-volkswagen-karmann-coachbuilt-camper-van/ The rare Karmann coachbuilt camper van]

[http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/ Volkswagen Karmann Coachbuilts Club]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page| Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9 Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General - Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[[General Fasteners|Fasteners and fastener types]]

*[[General Fastener Materials|Fastener materials & selection]]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]

*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]
*[[General Tyre pressure calc|Tyre pressures - Generic formula]]

* [http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm Torque converter]
* [http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf Zeus tables in pdf format (16.3 Mb)]

* [http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm Std. Imperial thread data (US source)]

==Tools/Sundries/Safety equipment==

===Tools===
*[[General Torque Wrench|Torque Wrench]]
*[[General Rear Brake Adjuster Tool|Brake adjuster tool for rear brakes]]
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Screw/Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General Impact Screwdriver|Impact Screwdriver]]
*[[General Screw extractors|Screw extractors (easiouts)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Thread Chaser|Thread Chaser]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Rivnuts|Rivnuts]]
*[[General Welding equipment|Welding equipment]]
*[[General Spot Blaster|Hobby spot-blaster]]
*[[General Glow-plug spanner|Diesel glow-plug removal spanner]]
*[[General Shelter-tent workshop|Shelter-tent workshop]]
*[[General QMAX hole punch|QMAX hole punch]]
*[[General Pipe spanners|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]
*[[General Underseal chisel|Underseal chisel]]
*[[General Cleco pins|Cleco (Avdel)locating pins]]
*[[General Stainless Wire Brush|Stainless Wire Brushes]]
*[[General Chain wrench|Chain-wrench/Strap wrench/Pipe wrench]]
*[[General Belt finger sander|Belt (finger) sander {powerfile)]]
*[[General HD vacuum cleaner|HD (or industrial) workshop vacuum cleaner]]
*[[General Joggler|Sheet-metal joggler tool]]
*[[General Battery Chargers|Battery chargers]]

===Home made tools===
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device|Brake bleed pressure device]]
*[[General Homemade working light|Cheap working light for inaccessible areas]]
*[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis cleaning tools]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Improvised|Improvised deep-reach welding clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Home-made|Home-made deep-reach G-clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning - Home-made|Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning]]
*[[General Homemade Emergency Welders|Emergency Welders]]

===Sundries===
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]
*[[General Cold Front|Cold Front (welding)]]
*[[General High Temperature finishes|High-temp paints]]
*[[General Anti-corrosion paint|Weld-thru Zinc spray]]
*[[General Rust-busters|Rust-busters and penetrating oils]]
*[[General EZGrip|EZ-Grip fastener head friction drops]]
*[[General Dinitrol Rust-off|Dinitrol (RC900) Rust-off primer (optional Chassis Black overcoating)]]
*[[General Rustoleum paint|Rustoleum Combi-colour paint]]

===Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions===

Safety, Safely & Sagely.

*[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
*[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
*[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
*[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]
*[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]

==Techniques==
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut|Loosening (46mm) rear-hub castle-nut]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding and brazing]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rust|Removing rust using vinegar (from small components)]]
*[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Handy method for inspecting inside sills/sections etc]]

*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
*[http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Hydraulic lifters]
*[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting]]
*[[General Joggler| Joggling (stepping) panels for seam joins]]

*[[Techniques - Sheet steel fabrication|Sheet steel fabrication]]

*[[Techniques - CB radio installation and aerial tuning|CB radio installations and aerial tuning]]

==Technical Information - non vehicle specific ==

===Electrical===

===Mechanical===

===Other===

==Featured Parts==

*[[Parts - Bodywork - Seatbelt anchor plates|Seatbelt anchor nut plates]]

*[[Parts - Turbo pipework - Murray aviation hose clamp|Murray aviation hose clamp]]

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]
*[[Insurance Postcode rating|Postocde rating]]
----

= Breakdown =

*[[breakdown ADAC|ADAC (Deutsche AA)]]
*[[breakdown Adrian Flux|Adrian Flux]]
*[[breakdown AA|AA]]
*[[breakdown Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)|Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)]]
*[[breakdown CIS|CIS (Co-Op Insurance Services)]]
----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]

*Pictures of hard to get to places and bits you don't normally see (also see Rust and Interiors)
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
**[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
**[[T25 Media Library 80-90 films| 80-90 films]]
----

=T25 Camper Manuals, VW manuals, Specifications, Literature, Magazine Articles,=
*[http://www.vanagonauts.com/2.1L-Vanagon-Specs234.htm List of torques and specifications, fluids etc ]
*[http://web.mac.com/gbotter/Club_del_Maggiolino_di_Treviso/VW_Camper_T3_A.html Lots of original brochures on an Italian website]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals /Autosleeper Trident/ Autohomes]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights/dimensions]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals Technical books| Technical books Haynes etc]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/proj/prpics/p93/p93.pdf Wooden toy template, can be modified to look more T25]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Manuals|Where to get manuals]]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php M-Code M-Plate decipher website]

----

=Links & Addresses (Parts, sundries & other useful websites) =

==Parts & sundry Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]
*[[Internet Links Electronic and Electrical Services|Electronic (ECU) and Electrical Services]]
*[http://www.dubdoctors.com/ http://www.dubdoctors.com/]

===Suppliers feedback gleaned from the forum===

*[[Elite VW]]

=Internet links - Other relevant websites=

*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]

*[http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm | MOT testers manual in depth, you can download the manual opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/Special%20Notice%2009-11.pdf | MOT changes for 2012 opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.bradtech.ltd.uk/ |Thetford portaloo spares]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]
*[http://www.jigrah.co.uk/mhpark/Default.htm Hightop-friendly carparks]
*[[Internet Links other T25 and vanagon resources|Other useful T25 and vanagon tech resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club suppliers]]

*[[Westy jokers]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
*[[Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers|Stolen Vehicle registers]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts1994/ukpga_19940033_en_8#pt5-pb1 Criminal justice act Part V relating to trespass powers to remove, may have a relevance to overnight camping]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics] site not active march20111
*[http://www.vwpix.org/eng/ VWPix, Boltze & Co's VW brochure site]
*[http://sbmcc.co.uk/forum/ SBMCC (Self-build Motor Caravanners Club]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN M-Code decoder website(Bottom right, 1979~1991 T3)]

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]

[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks installing Firefox|Installing Firefox]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - Joining the Waze Group|Joining the 80-90 Waze Nav App Group]]

*[[Misc tips and tricks - Windows PC - Fixing problems|Windows PC - Fixing Problems]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying VW parts (UK, Germany and SA]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers - Warning]]
*[[Parts - Non-VW Parts|Non VW parts]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==

*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]

==Performance; Power; Dyno results==
*[[Performance - Dyno results|Dynamometer test results]]
----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

=Garages, Workshops and services=
==T25==
[[Garages T25 Specific|T25 specific garages]]
==General==
[[Garages General Recommended|Recommended general garages]]

[[Garages recomended Non UK|Garages recomended Non UK]]

==Services==
[[Services Recommended|Recommended Services]]

=Health & Safety=
==Common workshop dangers==

*[[H&S Dangerous Gases|Highly Dangerous Gases from common workshop sundries]]

*Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions (From Tools, Techniques & Sundries)

**[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
**[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
**[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
**[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]
**[[General Battery charging Hydrogen gas explosion warnings]]
*Safety - Driving -Roadside repairs - Off-road etc
**[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]

Exhausts Custom

2017-10-20T18:53:16Z

CovKid:

==DIY Custom Exhaust - Early Layout==

CovKid: For the adventurous who have the earlier /. ' .\ /. ' .\ type exhaust flange mountings, you might like to try this. Its certainly cheaper than a new stock silencer, sounds better, lasts longer and arguably performs better but does require some cutting. In fact a similar silencer swap can be done with the later system (to follow).

My camper is actually a watercooled 1.9 DG with the earlier petrol exhaust layout but this should also work on the earier 2000cc aircooled and some T2's as well. Diesel possibly not - might be too noisy.

'''Project:''' Stainless box half-breed exhaust.

What I've used here is a Japanese Kawasaki 98 ZX6R stainless silencer (yes bike) mated to a type4 header (1.7-2.0 aircooled custom type). The header is normally sold by Vw custom outlets with a quietpack or glasspack silencer which frankly, rots out quicker than a stock VW exhaust. The pipework (header) lasts years though (from experience) and you can buy them on their own or even buy the lot from Just Kampers (about £75 incl VAT)) and throw the silencer away or sell it. The headers frequently appear on ebay too. Numerous bike silencer cans will work but I chose this one as its big and non-restrictive, and crucially stainless. What you don't want is to buy a can that strangles your exhaust flow so bear that in mind.

I can't advise on the 3-bolt spacing on motorcycles as they vary quite a bit but you may well find a perfect matched can for the type4 header. You could I suppose, take the header to a bike-breakers yard and see what might fit. I got fairly close using the 98 ZX6R with relatively minor modifications. Australian bike rider 'Bladeracer' from Fireblade.org (thanks) tells me that a '98 ZX6R is 82mm centres and a '98 GSXR750 is 78mm centres - so the GSXR750 might be a better bet, as the header bolt spacing is I think, 80mm and you may only need a round file to sort the holes but as I haven't tried, I can't be absolutely sure. Go do some measurements!

Heres the header and can (silencer) anyway:

[[Image:Headerkaw.jpg]]

The 98 ZX6R silencer is surpisingly heavy but it does have a huge inlet (at least 2 1/2"). Bolting everything up is relatively easy although you'll need nuts and bolts rather than just nuts to attach to the rest of the VW pipework (stock VW boxes have studs remember).

'''Fitted:''' VERY low note indeed (not easy to hear in video below except towards end of the clip) but its a bit like a Honda Goldwing or a bug with a slightly quieter Zoom Tube (if you know what one of those sounds like). Seems much more responsive (certainly no performance loss as its a good flow through this box) - particularly in 3rd.

Total cost, a mere £80 (£60 for header, £20 s/h ZX65 can). There are various aftermarket cans fitted to the 98 ZX6R including carbon fibre etc but all overkill for this job. A standard second-hand ZX6R can is fine, cost £25 at most and works well on the T25.

'''Modifications Needed:''' Nothing major really. Bit of apron cutting was needed for clearance (anglegrinder) but not much! To be honest, hardest part was taking off the old silencer, requiring (as usual) an angle grinder again, hacksaw and much cursing as all the nuts and threads were completely corroded, and the whole reason why I did the silencer swap in the first place. I was sick of all hassle (and ridiculous cost) associated with replacing stock exhausts. These headers allow far more access to retaining nuts as well. Fit copper nuts if you can but certainly use copper grease on threads, thats just good practice when assembling exhausts.

[[Image:Hackshole.jpg]]

The header needed a slight modification. The above photo is just for reference and not an actual photo of silencer or header but will hopefully explain what was done and what to do if you hit the same problem.

When I mated header pipes to silencer the 3-bolt holes were not far enough apart on header to match Kawasaki 3-bolt (fraction difference) so 80/90 member Chickenkoop came up with the really neat idea of hacksawing into each bolt hole in the flange, then levering each with a screwdriver to open them up, welding across the gap - avoiding the need for any adaptor. You may just find that enlarging the bolt holes works.

For a silencer gasket I used sheet ally using a cardboard template as a guide. There may well be a Kawasaki one available but it was quicker and cheaper at the time to just cut one out. Apron fouled the pipes and silencer as I've mentioned, so I removed sufficient metal from the apron with the grinder for clearance. Hardly noticeable - even less so if you painted this part of the apron black.

[[Image:Kawawagon.jpg]]

Presumably the rest of the exhaust system could be made up, piece by piece in stainless if you wanted to keep the early exhaust set up but this is a very cost-effective (if not novel) alternative to the stock steel silencer if you want to try it. Either way, cheap and no more rusty silencer or tail pipes dropping off! It sits more or less flush wih rear apron.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8bvi6VuJS0 - the smoke is NOT my engine by the way. It was on choke and still burning paint from inside the header pipe!

'''Update:'''

Bit of an update after six weeks running with this exhaust. Most definately a performance increase. It seems to have removed what were noticeable flat spots on acceleration and third is now like warp drive on the USS Enterprise. If I had any gripe its that the note is possibly too low (sounds very like a gold wing or large cruising bike around 35mph), but does turn heads without sounding like a hatchback poser. I would recommend this mod for anyone after something a little different or on a limited budget and want a different exhaust box that will last for many years compared to the short-lived EMPI silencer box or even the stock one. No reason why this couldn't work for a later exhaust system but you'd need to figure out the connections.

==DIY Custom Exhaust - Late Layout==

Well, its been on over two years now and I keep bumping into other T25 owners with the early layout that have copied this idea using the same, Honda or Suzi boxes so it seems to work well (to date anyway). Its maybe not as shiny as it was, but still doing its job. The later petrol exhaust layout can also utilise a bike silencer if you make up an adapter as below (thanks NicBeee):

[[Image:customexhaustlate.jpg]]

The converter could be made fairly easily and even remade should you want to try a different can later on. The adapter and can still works out cheaper than a stock VW silencer. Stick to big bikes for the throughput needed.

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2

2017-09-15T12:14:00Z

CovKid: /* Shift Rod And Selector Rebuild */

PT2 - article by mm289

==Shift Rod And Selector Assembly==

Continued from: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1

With the gear stick components dealt with, we move to the shift rod. Basically there are 3 components involved here, the front shift rod, the rear shift rod, and the shift lever (or selector assembly) which moves the short stub sticking out of the side of the gearbox and ultimately selects the gears inside the box.

The front and rear shift rods both run in plastic bushes, the shift lever is a ball and cup (socket) affair where the ball is nylon and the socket metal.

In my case all the areas were worn, if you got under the van and held the shift rod you could move it laterally and vertically (about 1-2mm play). There also seemed a fair bit of play in the shift lever ball joint (up/down movement)

To get at the shift rod bushes you have to disconnect the front and rear shift rods from each other. They are joined by a splined shaft/clamp which allows you to alter not only the length of the shaft but also the orientation i.e. you can rotate the rear shaft relative to the front.

[[file:gshift23.jpg]]

If you were setting up from scratch there are measurements and processes for getting this joint set up correctly as adjustments here fundamentally affect the movement of the shift lever and hence gear selection.

If your selection is working OK already then just make sure you mark/scribe this joint before splitting!! I put a daub of tippex on mine (pretty useless idea really as I then cleaned the shaft :oops: ) but also scribed the splines that were showing in the gap of the clamp – which was much more effective.

[[file:gshift24.jpg]]

Loosen the clamp bolt, apply releasing fluid and gently work the shaft off the splines. You may find you need to gently tap with a hammer to help move it.

Once removed then undo the 2 bolts securing the bush assembly to the cross member and slide the assembly off the shift rod leaving it looking like this.

[[file:gshift25.jpg]]

The rear bush mounting is bolted to the front of the transmission.

[[file:gshift26.jpg]]

To remove the bushing you will need to remove the shift lever which can’t be done in situ, so undo the two bolts holding the bush mounting to the transmission case. You may find at this point the rear shift lever will drop free as the ball joint will pop out of its socket on the shift lever.

If it doesn’t then the lever is held onto the gearbox shaft with a 13mm retaining nut. Push a socket on where the arrow is and undo this nut then the shift lever will slide of the transmission shift shaft. NOTE: this lever is keyed (will only fit one way) so you don’t have to worry about marking its position.

[[file:gshift27.jpg]]

==Shift Rod And Selector Rebuild==

When you have done the two steps above you will have a collection of parts like this on your bench:

[[file:gshift28.jpg]]

The front bushing will already be in pieces, but to get the rear bushing off you need to remove the shift lever from the shaft. It slides onto the shaft and is secured by a roll pin that goes through the shaft and the shift lever.

Find a suitable drift and drive the pin out INTO THE SOCKET. When you have done that, the shift lever will slide off the shaft (with a bit of encouragement) leaving you with a nice collection of parts to clean.

[[file:gshift29.jpg]]

Components cleaned and new nylon bush all ready for reassembly:

[[file:gshift30.jpg]]

Depending on the age of your vehicle you will either have 2 nylon bushes like the one in the above photo (part no. 251 711 207 D) (around £6 - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1085&category_id=99 ) or this type of bush (below) - part no. 251 711 207 E - around £5 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1225&category_id=99

'''Covkid update:''' Some of these rear parts appear to be a little cheaper via ebay but you'll need to check whats in the kit and decide whether (once you tot up everything) there are any savings to be made. Search for "vw t25 gear kit" - this applies to rear components only. The front kit is close to £60 on ebay and via JK and VW Heritage so you can pay significantly more if you do not do your homework.

'''Campershack says:''' Refitting ball and spring.
It's nigh on impossible to lever it in from the side. Use a blunt/flat ended rod or a long thin bolt through the small hole in the end to push the ball against the spring (easiest with the lever upside down in a vice). Then offer the clinch pin in sideways against the bolt. Quick flick of the wrist and it's one out/ one in. Put the spring and circlip in (if you removed them), grease up, ends on and you're done!
Btw don't forget the rubber damper ring on the clinch pin!

'''Jamesakers:''' I did it by pushing the ball bearing into the spring through the hole and then slid the pin in. I think I used some stiff plastic tube which helped stop the ball popping sideways.

[[file:gshift31.jpg]]

In theory later vans (85 onwards?) have the “one of each” variety, but Myrtle is an ’86 and has 2 the same so who knows! I would have a look underneath and check before ordering otherwise (like me) you will end up with the wrong bush.

Just out of interest I measured the bushes up with a vernier. The new bush measured 20.00mm, the old ones were 20.80 - 21.20 (front) and 20.80 - 21.00 (rear), so worn about a mil and oval.

Next I turned my attention to the shift lever. The ball didn’t look in too bad condition, I have measured it and it worked out at 29.57mm. It would be useful to know what a new one measures up at.

The socket, on the other hand, was in a right state (see below). The rubber boot had perished and the ally was heavily corroded – it may well be that this will need replacing – I will have to see what the finished setup is like. At the top of the socket this measured 30.40mm, about 0.6mm bigger than the ball. The rubber boot is approx £5 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1173&category_id=99

Covkid: ''Thinking outside the box here (excuse the pun), if the socket is worn I see no reason why a small sleeve couldn't be made to fit at the top of the socket to stop the ball lifting out. On my own camper the ball and socket is loosely held together with cable ties which is a quick solution if the two are no longer an interference fit.''

This socket is available new and in a stronger material than stock for approx £32 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1529&category_id=99

[[file:gshift32.jpg]]

I also checked the shift lever shaft on the transmission as Aidan had pointed out that there looked to be a small oil leak. The shaft has no horizontal play but does have some vertical movement, with the shaft pulled out (4th/5th position) the end of the shaft moved about 0.25mm. Also, when sliding the shaft in and out there is a noticeable deposit of oil on the shaft so I reckon the seal needs replacing. Haven’t got one of these so that will have to be ordered up and fitted later.

[[file:gshift33.jpg]]

Reassembly is pretty straight forward. I cleaned up the shafts, refitted the shift lever and drove the pin in from inside the cup (NOTE, one end of the roll pin was noticeably smaller than the other – If you have a vernier or micrometer it is useful to know this and put the smaller end in first!)

I then filled the cup with moly grease and fitted a new boot to the socket.

[[file:gshift34.jpg]]

I also cleaned and refilled the transmission shift lever boot with grease, it is actually easier to fit the ball end of the shift lever to the transmission shaft before loosely bolting the rear bush housing to the FRONT of the transmission (see Aidan’s note in the wiki – if you bolt the plate behind the mount on the transmission housing it will throw out the selector settings :shock: ).

I then reassembled the front bushing and shifter rod and loosely bolted on before recoupling the splined shaft and clamp. To be honest I found the alignment pretty easy as I set the shift lever on the transmission so it was in neutral in the 2nd/3rd position (lever is vertical). If you then fit the splines 1 out you will find the fork on the gear lever won’t line up with the bushing on the front of the shift rod.

Once the splines were clamped up I then tighten all the other bushing mountings. Job done.

Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2

2017-09-15T12:13:33Z

CovKid: /* Shift Rod And Selector Rebuild */

PT2 - article by mm289

==Shift Rod And Selector Assembly==

Continued from: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php?title=Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Renovating_5_speed_change_mechanism_Pt1

With the gear stick components dealt with, we move to the shift rod. Basically there are 3 components involved here, the front shift rod, the rear shift rod, and the shift lever (or selector assembly) which moves the short stub sticking out of the side of the gearbox and ultimately selects the gears inside the box.

The front and rear shift rods both run in plastic bushes, the shift lever is a ball and cup (socket) affair where the ball is nylon and the socket metal.

In my case all the areas were worn, if you got under the van and held the shift rod you could move it laterally and vertically (about 1-2mm play). There also seemed a fair bit of play in the shift lever ball joint (up/down movement)

To get at the shift rod bushes you have to disconnect the front and rear shift rods from each other. They are joined by a splined shaft/clamp which allows you to alter not only the length of the shaft but also the orientation i.e. you can rotate the rear shaft relative to the front.

[[file:gshift23.jpg]]

If you were setting up from scratch there are measurements and processes for getting this joint set up correctly as adjustments here fundamentally affect the movement of the shift lever and hence gear selection.

If your selection is working OK already then just make sure you mark/scribe this joint before splitting!! I put a daub of tippex on mine (pretty useless idea really as I then cleaned the shaft :oops: ) but also scribed the splines that were showing in the gap of the clamp – which was much more effective.

[[file:gshift24.jpg]]

Loosen the clamp bolt, apply releasing fluid and gently work the shaft off the splines. You may find you need to gently tap with a hammer to help move it.

Once removed then undo the 2 bolts securing the bush assembly to the cross member and slide the assembly off the shift rod leaving it looking like this.

[[file:gshift25.jpg]]

The rear bush mounting is bolted to the front of the transmission.

[[file:gshift26.jpg]]

To remove the bushing you will need to remove the shift lever which can’t be done in situ, so undo the two bolts holding the bush mounting to the transmission case. You may find at this point the rear shift lever will drop free as the ball joint will pop out of its socket on the shift lever.

If it doesn’t then the lever is held onto the gearbox shaft with a 13mm retaining nut. Push a socket on where the arrow is and undo this nut then the shift lever will slide of the transmission shift shaft. NOTE: this lever is keyed (will only fit one way) so you don’t have to worry about marking its position.

[[file:gshift27.jpg]]

==Shift Rod And Selector Rebuild==

When you have done the two steps above you will have a collection of parts like this on your bench:

[[file:gshift28.jpg]]

The front bushing will already be in pieces, but to get the rear bushing off you need to remove the shift lever from the shaft. It slides onto the shaft and is secured by a roll pin that goes through the shaft and the shift lever.

Find a suitable drift and drive the pin out INTO THE SOCKET. When you have done that, the shift lever will slide off the shaft (with a bit of encouragement) leaving you with a nice collection of parts to clean.

[[file:gshift29.jpg]]

Components cleaned and new nylon bush all ready for reassembly:

[[file:gshift30.jpg]]

Depending on the age of your vehicle you will either have 2 nylon bushes like the one in the above photo (part no. 251 711 207 D) (around £6 - http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1085&category_id=99 ) or this type of bush (below) - part no. 251 711 207 E - around £5 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1225&category_id=99

'''Covkid update:''' Some of these rear parts appear to be a little cheaper via ebay but you'll need to check whats in the kit and decide whether (once you tot up everything) there are any savings to be made. Search for "vw t25 gear kit" - this applies to rear components only. The front kit is close to £60 on ebay and via JK and VW Heritage so you can pay significantly more if you do not do your homework.

'''Campershack says:''' Refitting ball and spring.
It's nigh on impossible to lever it in from the side. Use a blunt/flat ended rod or a long thin bolt through the small hole in the end to push the ball against the spring (easiest with the lever upside down in a vice). Then offer the clinch pin in sideways against the bolt. Quick flick of the wrist and it's one out/ one in. Put the spring and circlip in (if you removed them), grease up, ends on and you're done!
Btw don't forget the rubber damper ring on the clinch pin!

''Jamesakers:''' I did it by pushing the ball bearing into the spring through the hole and then slid the pin in. I think I used some stiff plastic tube which helped stop the ball popping sideways.

[[file:gshift31.jpg]]

In theory later vans (85 onwards?) have the “one of each” variety, but Myrtle is an ’86 and has 2 the same so who knows! I would have a look underneath and check before ordering otherwise (like me) you will end up with the wrong bush.

Just out of interest I measured the bushes up with a vernier. The new bush measured 20.00mm, the old ones were 20.80 - 21.20 (front) and 20.80 - 21.00 (rear), so worn about a mil and oval.

Next I turned my attention to the shift lever. The ball didn’t look in too bad condition, I have measured it and it worked out at 29.57mm. It would be useful to know what a new one measures up at.

The socket, on the other hand, was in a right state (see below). The rubber boot had perished and the ally was heavily corroded – it may well be that this will need replacing – I will have to see what the finished setup is like. At the top of the socket this measured 30.40mm, about 0.6mm bigger than the ball. The rubber boot is approx £5 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1173&category_id=99

Covkid: ''Thinking outside the box here (excuse the pun), if the socket is worn I see no reason why a small sleeve couldn't be made to fit at the top of the socket to stop the ball lifting out. On my own camper the ball and socket is loosely held together with cable ties which is a quick solution if the two are no longer an interference fit.''

This socket is available new and in a stronger material than stock for approx £32 from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1529&category_id=99

[[file:gshift32.jpg]]

I also checked the shift lever shaft on the transmission as Aidan had pointed out that there looked to be a small oil leak. The shaft has no horizontal play but does have some vertical movement, with the shaft pulled out (4th/5th position) the end of the shaft moved about 0.25mm. Also, when sliding the shaft in and out there is a noticeable deposit of oil on the shaft so I reckon the seal needs replacing. Haven’t got one of these so that will have to be ordered up and fitted later.

[[file:gshift33.jpg]]

Reassembly is pretty straight forward. I cleaned up the shafts, refitted the shift lever and drove the pin in from inside the cup (NOTE, one end of the roll pin was noticeably smaller than the other – If you have a vernier or micrometer it is useful to know this and put the smaller end in first!)

I then filled the cup with moly grease and fitted a new boot to the socket.

[[file:gshift34.jpg]]

I also cleaned and refilled the transmission shift lever boot with grease, it is actually easier to fit the ball end of the shift lever to the transmission shaft before loosely bolting the rear bush housing to the FRONT of the transmission (see Aidan’s note in the wiki – if you bolt the plate behind the mount on the transmission housing it will throw out the selector settings :shock: ).

I then reassembled the front bushing and shifter rod and loosely bolted on before recoupling the splined shaft and clamp. To be honest I found the alignment pretty easy as I set the shift lever on the transmission so it was in neutral in the 2nd/3rd position (lever is vertical). If you then fit the splines 1 out you will find the fork on the gear lever won’t line up with the bushing on the front of the shift rod.

Once the splines were clamped up I then tighten all the other bushing mountings. Job done.

Fuel System Filler Cap

2017-08-26T18:42:05Z

CovKid:

'''Stiff filler cap'''

(penned by Covkid):

This is basically a cleaning/disassembly. After a time, filler caps can be stiff to turn - and to avoid key being snapped off in the lock!.

If you remove the filler cap and flip it over, you'll see a small pin through the red plastic housing.

[[File:petrol1.jpg]]

Push this through and the whole assembly comes apart.

[[File:petrol2.jpg]]

The last part is a steel washer which invariably gets corroded, hampering the movement of the filler cap when you turn it.

[[File:petrol3.jpg]]

Remove all the rust and coat lightly with grease (ideally silicone grease if you have it) on the underside (not rubber side). Also put a dab of grease under metal plate which the red cap sits in then reassemble

If the rubber washer has gone, it wouldn't be too big a deal to cut some out of a sheet of rubber. Mine was fine.

Fuel System Filler Cap

2017-08-26T18:39:52Z

CovKid:

'''Stiff filler cap'''

(penned by Covkid):

This is basically a cleaning/disassembly. After a time, filler caps can be stiff to turn - and to avoid key being snapped off in the lock!.

If you remove the filler cap and flip it over, you'll see a small pin through the red plastic housing.

[[File:petrol1.jpg]]

Push this through and the whole assembly comes apart.

[[File:petrol2.jpg]]

The last part is a steel washer which invariably gets corroded, hampering the movement of the filler cap when you turn it.

[[File:petrol3.jpg]]

Remove all the rust and coat lightly with grease (ideally silicone grease if you have it) on the underside (not rubber side) then reassemble

If the rubber washer has gone, it wouldn't be too big a deal to cut some out of a sheet of rubber. Mine was fine.

Fuel System Filler Cap

2017-08-26T18:29:53Z

CovKid:

'''Stiff filler cap'''

(penned by Covkid):

This is basically a cleaning/disassembly. After a time, filler caps can be stiff to turn.

If you remove the filler cap and flip it over, you'll see a small pin through the red plastic housing.

[[File:petrol1.jpg]]

Push this through and the whole assembly comes apart.

[[File:petrol2.jpg]]

The last part is a steel washer which invariably gets corroded, hampering the movement of the filler cap when you turn it.

[[File:petrol3.jpg]]

Remove all the rust and coat lightly with grease (ideally silicone grease if you have it) then reassemble

File:Petrol3.jpg

2017-08-26T18:28:09Z

CovKid:

File:Petrol2.jpg

2017-08-26T18:27:42Z

CovKid:

File:Petrol1.jpg

2017-08-26T18:27:27Z

CovKid:

Fuel System Filler Cap

2017-08-26T18:26:44Z

CovKid: Created page with ''''Stiff filler cap''' This is basically a cleaning/disassembly. After a time, filler caps can be stiff to turn. If you remove the filler cap and flip it over, you'll see a sma…'

'''Stiff filler cap'''

This is basically a cleaning/disassembly. After a time, filler caps can be stiff to turn.

If you remove the filler cap and flip it over, you'll see a small pin through the red plastic housing.

Push this through and the whole assembly comes apart.

The last part is a steel washer which invariably gets corroded, hampering the movement of the filler cap when you turn it.

Remove all the rust and coat lightly with grease (ideally silicone grease if you have it) then reassemble

Main Page

2017-08-26T18:22:29Z

CovKid: /* Common */

'''Welcome to a VW-Tech, the wiki technical archive of the Club 80-90 website.'''

== NEW USERS START HERE, READ THE DISCLAIMER==

'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

'''Club 80-90 Wiki History'''

Started in around 2005 after we moved from an older bulletin board that had been outgrown by the size of the club. A group of long standing club members decided to retain some of the helpful information on the technical pages that would otherwise get lost as the forum was pruned from time to time. Some of the information is basic vehicle mechanics for those that are just starting out. Some is advanced that you will need an extensive toolset to achieve. Some of it you could find in a Hayne's or Bentley manual and sometimes there are fixes that have not been documented and issues that VW had no repair as these vehicles have long since lasted beyond the working life that VW intended them to achieve. This is a collection of postings on 80-90 over the years and has grown to quite a size, some by professional mechanics and some by novices and all levels of knowledge in between. Ultimately it is to be used along side other forums and manuals to give you another viewpoint on how to solve or fix a problem, but usually with a real persons perspective and photographs to help out. It is not meant to be gospel and it is a living work in progress, articles and advice may change as knowledge grows over time. It may be contradictory in parts as different people have different ideas on the best way to perform a procedure. You may need to use some gut instinct and common sense to tell you which way to proceed, there may be a way to do something which hasn't been thought of, or they may be incorrect information which is out of date. The two main wiki editors are HarryMann and Hacksawbob (usernames on Club 80-90) Send a private message to them if you spot something that needs changing. If you have something to add write it up in the Club 80-90 Technical section in the appropriate section and PM an editor to make them aware of it.

------

Please stick to the following [[naming convention|naming convention]]. Feel free to add information to the pages you create but please don't alter the section headings as this will have a knock on effect on the naming scheme. It will help subsequent people to add information and will avoid accidental page overwriting or duplication. Please PM Hacksawbob or HarryMann if you have any questions or suggestions.
I appreciate that there will be some overlap between sections, and equally a topic that could appear in several sections, enter your information in the section that you think is most appropriate, it can then be linked to from other pages. Don't enter into discussion on the WIKI, that is for the forum, try and keep the information here as definative an concise as possible. '''''The WIKI is for answers not questions.''''' If you need clarification then try and contact the poster directly or start a new thread on the [http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2| technical forum.]

==Club 80-90 Wiki en Français==
[[French language pages|French Language pages]]

==Notices and Bugs==
'''PLEASE READ THE''' [[Disclaimer|'''Disclaimer:''']]

*Some club 80-90 members are the only ones with editing rights. Please PM HarryMann if you are a seasoned Wiki editor with valuable T3/T25 content to add. Particularly we are looking for those with experience of the early aircooleds, esepcially the carburrettion, ignition and tuning aspects.

*Red links are pages that do not yet have information added to them (or whose pages have become orphaned, either due to typos in the internal links, or other reasons)

*Please - Add your name at the beginning of the section you are adding! A good way is to format it as below, including a brief summary - adding a single space at the beginning turns it into a caption (repetitive saves seem to destroy that though)

e.g. '''Name: ''' Brief summary of what has been added below (and possibly why its important)

*Please reference your source if what you are posting is not your own. Ask permission first if there is copyright on it, and if it is from another website please put the link to the original URL.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Meta:Sandbox&action=edit click here for a 'sandbox'] if you want to experiment with wikis before making modifiacations to this one.

*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing here is some help on basic Wiki editing]

----

= New or Prospective Owner? =

==* Warnings - Must Read *==
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fire warning - Aircooled - Carb fuel leaks]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings| Gearbox /Transaxle /Diff oil levels]]
*[[Petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Parts quality - Keep old (removed) parts]]

==Guides==
*[[New/Prospective Owners What are they like to drive? | What are they like? How to drive?]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks buyers guide | The Buyers Guide by Simon Brickyard and others]]
*[[Syncro - Testing|Syncro (4 wheel drive) Buyers guide]]
*[[A newbies buying experience|A newbies buying experience]]

==Tips and tricks and basic servicing==
*[[Misc tips and tricks New owners questions| New owners' questions (FAQ)]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks spares to carry| Spares and tools to carry]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners| Don't panic!]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Flat 4 engines primer| Flat 4 engines primer]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners Importing|Importing]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp VOSA MOT advisories online, check what might need fixing soon on your prospective purchase]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints gear change reluctance|Gearchange reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving difficult/sloppy gearchange]]
*[[Petrol engines oil change|Petrol engines - Oil & oil changes]]
*[[New/Prospective Owners All engines servicing overview|All engines servicing overview]]
For Maintenance Bulletins look in Misc Tips and Tips

----

=Engines=
== Petrol engines (Watercooled)==
[[Image:1.9-DG-watercooled-top1-(with-LPG-system).jpg|thumb|1.9L DG engine (with LPG system)]]
*[[petrol engines Fire warning|Fire warning - Fuel lines, tank, carb etc.]]
*[[petrol engines Not starting diagnostic flow chart|Not starting - Diagnostic flow chart]]
*[[petrol engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
*[[petrol engines spark plug types|Spark plug types]]

*1.9 specific
**[[petrol engines 1.9 Timing|1.9 timing]]
**[[petrol engines - Pierburg Choke|Pierburg Choke Mechanism]]

*2.1 specific
**[[petrol engines 2.1 Timing|2.1 timing]]
**[[petrol engines intermittent 2.1 | Petrol engines intermittent 2.1 (incl. Vanagon syndrome)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 MV|2.1 MV specific]]
**[[petrol engines Bad idling 2.1|Bad idling (2.1 DJ)]]
**[[petrol engines 2.1 ISCU|2.1 ISCU]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Throwing a rod|2.1 Throwing a rod]]
**[[Petrol engines Oil pressure survey|Oil pressure survey]]
**[[Petrol engines Cam follower removal head in place|Cam follower removal head in place]]
**[[Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out|Removing 2.1 - Other jobs whilst out]]

*General Ignition Info/Debugging
**[[Petrol engines Ignition firing order|Firing order]]
**[[Petrol engines Ignition advance curves|Ignition advance curves]]
**[[Petrol engines Vac advance/retard problems|Vac advance/retard problems]]

*Parts, Pictures, Diagrams and lists etc.
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Inlet Manifold (1.9)|Inlet Manifold (1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - Oil breather hose(1.9)|Oil breather hose(1.9)]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - petrol Cooling system diagram|petrol Cooling system diagram]]
**[[Petrol engines Parts - wbx exhaust stud depth|wbx exhaust stud depth]]

==Petrol Engines (Aircooled)==
[[Image:CU-engine-top-1.JPG|thumb|A CU aircooled engine]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Schematic|Schematic parts layout]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled engine removal|Engine removal]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled - Crankshaft oil seal|Crankshaft oil-seal (photo article, start-to-finish)]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Differences|Differences between engines]]

*[[petrol engines aircooled running temperature|Aircooled running temperature]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled performance enhancement|Performance enhancement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled thermostat|Thermostat]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled solid lifters|Solid lifters]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled push rod & seal replacement|Pushrod & tube seal replacement]]
*[[petrol engines aircooled Oil pressures|Oil pressures]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Cyl. Head
**[[petrol engines aircooled Refitting cylinder heads|Refitting cylinder heads]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Valves|Re-cutting seats and lapping valves]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cylinder Head Damage|Cylinder head damage]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Aircooled Ignition Systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 01|Ignition timing esp. Vac adv/ret hoses]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Ignition 02|Distributors, timing and setting up]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4OmiVH2J0&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIrA4iWkhbE&feature=related Historic a/c Ignition timing videos Part 2]
**[[petrol engines aircooled spark plugs|Spark plugs and HT leads]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Carburrettors and fuel system
**[[Carburrettors - faults and faultfinding]]
**[[Fuel pump - aircooleds|Fuel pump problems]]
**[[Inlet manifolds - aircooleds|Inlet manifolds]]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOxxS1EMphU&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 1]
**[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWdZSr7x81w&feature=related Historic a/c carb tuning videos (PICT 28 ~34) Part 2]

*A/C Petrol engines - Cooling and heating systems
**[[petrol engines aircooled tinware|Aircooled tinware]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating parts]]
**[[petrol engines aircooled Cooling and heating 01|Cooling and heating description]]

**Hazards
**[[petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|Fuel leaks]]

*A/C Petrol engines - Modifications
**[[petrol engines aircooled Modifications|A/C Modifications, carbs, distributors, tuning, compatability issues]]

==Petrol specific engine Faults/repairs/maintenance==
* [[petrol engines Diagnosing faults|Diagnosing faults (petrols)]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head spark plug numbers|Cylinder nos. and firing order ]]
* [[petrol engines oil change|Oil change]]
* [[petrol engines engine codes| Engine codes]]
* [[petrol engines cylinder head leak|Cylinder head leak]]
* [[petrol engines losing water|Losing water]]
* [[petrol engines low oil pressure|Low oil pressure]]
* [[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Snapped cylinder head bolt]]
* [[petrol engines starter bush removal|Starter motor bush removal]]
* [[petrol engines Overheating|Overheating]]
* [[petrol engines oil emulsifying|Emulsified oil (mayonnaise)]]
* [[petrol engines Oil leaks|Oil leaks]]
* [[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
* [[Hydraulic lifters explained ]]
* [[petrol engines non-start|Won't start (fuel)]]
*[[petrol engines spigot-shaft bearing|Replacing spigot-shaft bearing]]
[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=107122 ]

== Diesel engines ==
[[Image:Diesel engine1copy-1.jpg|thumb|JX turbo Diesel Engine]]
*[[Diesel engines Fire warning|Fire warning]]
*[[Diesel engines Diagnosis| Types, condition diagnosis, Service Bulletins etc]]
*[[Diesel engines engine codes|Engine codes]]
*[[Diesel engines engine removal and refitting|Engine removal and refitting]]
* Diesel Engines - Turbo
** [[Turbo - Re-indexing|Re-indexing]]
** [[Turbo - Setting-up the Wastegate|Setting-up the wastegate]]
** [[Turbo - Re-installing|Re-installing]]
** [[Turbo - Oil feeds|Oil feeds]]
** [[Turbo - Manifolds|Manifolds/Heat Shields]]
** [[Turbo - Refurbing|Refurbing]]
*[[Diesel engines - Sump/Oil Pump|Sump and oil pump]]

* Diesel Engines - Servicing
**[[Diesel Engines Adjusting tappet clearances|Adjusting tappet clearances]]
**[[Diesel Engines Auxiliary drive belts|Auxiliary drive belts]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing Belt_01|Lining-up camshaft and crankshaft]]
**[[Diesel Engines Timing belt|Timing belt/removing camshaft sprocket]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cyl Head re-fitting|Cylinder head re-fitting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Cold-Starting|Cold starting]]
**[[Diesel Engines Inj. pumps - AAZ pump adjustments|AAZ pump adjustments]]
**[[Diesel Engines 1.6 NA CS ring gaps|1.6 NA (CS) ring gaps]]

**[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
**[[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]

*Diesel Engines - Parts, pictures, diagrams and lists
** [[Parts - CS Inlet Manifold|CS Inlet Manifold]]
** [[Parts - Engine Damage|Diesel Engine damage]]
** [[Parts - Shadek Oil pump|Shadek oil pump]]
** [[Parts - Part Nos|Rebuild Part Nos and some torques]]
** [[Parts - Cooling system|Cooling system]]
** [[Parts - Crankshaft|Crankshaft and timing pulley]]
** [[Parts - Block and pistons|Block and pistons]]
** [[Parts - Intercooler|Intercooler]]

** [[Parts - Rebuild|Rebuilding parts]]
** [[Parts - Gloplug spanner|Glo-plug ratchet spanner]]
** [[Parts - Head gasket protrusion|Head gasket protrusion]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - rear|Cyl head instr senders - rear]]
** [[Parts - Cyl head instr senders - side|Cyl head instr senders - side]]
** [[Parts - JX turbo mounting position|JX turbo mounting position]]

**Diesel Engines - Modified parts
***[[Parts - Modifications - T3 turbo|T3 turbo install]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Standard Engine Mounts|Standard engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Engine Mounts|Modified engine mounts]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Silencer custom heat-shield|Silencer - custom heat-shield]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - AAZ Non-JX Mods 01|AAZ turbo clearance mods]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Oil cooling|Oil cooling and oil coolers]]
***[[Parts - Modifications - Injection pumps|Injection Pumps - Modifying]]

*Instruments -
**[[Diesel Engines Instruments|Diesel Engines Instruments]]

*Links to threads on the 1Y 1.9d (N/A) which is a popular conversion from the 1.6d and 1.7d
**[[List of Links from Ringo|List of links from Ringo]]

==All engine faults/repairs/maintenance==

*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Stripped sparkplug thread|Stripped spark plug thread]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oils recommended|Engine oils - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Oil filters recomended|Oil filters - recommended]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace throttle cable|Replace throttle cable]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Replace starter motor|Replace starter motor]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting|Reluctant starting (starter motor)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting (battery alternator)|Reluctant starting (battery alternator)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reluctant starting Earths|Reluctant starting earths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance reconditioned engines|Reconditioned engines]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes|Dashboard water level and temperature warnings and causes]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes|Dashboard oil pressure warnings and causes (DOPWS)]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Performance/Longevity|Performance/Longevity]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Air-cooled white smoke|Air-cooled white smoke]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Sump plug problems|Sump plug problems]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Dipstick lengths|Dipstick lengths]]
*[[All engine faults/repairs/maintenance Engine bay seal|Engine bay seal]]
----

==Exhausts==

*[[Exhausts Systems Petrol|Petrol Exhausts - Early/Late]]
*[[Exhausts Suppliers|Exhaust system suppliers - Part Nos & Stainless Alternatives]]
*[[Exhausts Custom|Custom exhausts]]
*[[Exhausts Rust|Exhaust rust repairs]]
*[[Exhausts Heat Pipe|DG Exhaust Heat transfer pipe]]

=Fuel System=
==Diesel==
*[[Diesel - Injectors|Diesel Injectors]]
*[[Diesel - Glow plugs replacing|Glow plugs - replacing]]
*[[Diesel - Injection pumps|Injection pumps]]
*[[Diesel - Fuel system Tips and Tricks|Fuel system Tips and Tricks]]
*[[Diesel - Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines| Adding bulb pump primer and transparent fuel lines]]

==Petrol==

*Common
**[[Petrol engines Fire warning|#Fire warnings# - fuel lines, tank and filler]]
**[[Petrol engines aircooled - Fuel Leaks|#Fuel leaks# - Aircooled]]

*Injection
**[[Fuel system - Digijet - Brief overview|Brief overview of Digijet injection system]]

*Carburrettor
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 Fuel hoses|Replacing 1.9 DG Fuel hoses]]
**[[Fuel system - Pierburg |Pierburg carbs]]
**[[Fuel system - 1.9 WBX stops intermittently|1.9 WBX stops intermittently]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor removal|Carburettor removal]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Pierburg alternatives|Carburettor Pierburg alternatives]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Air leaks|Carb or manifold air-leaks]]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Autochoke|Carb Autochoke setting]]
**[http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36598& Intermitten but very annoying problem (blocked jet?)]
**[[Fuel system - Carburettor Clearing blocked jets|Clearing blocked jets]]

==Common==
*[[Fuel system - Accelerator cable replacement|Acelerator cable replacement]]
*[[Fuel System tank removal |Tank removal]]
*[[Fuel system tank cleaning|Tank Cleaning]]
*[[Fuel system breather tanks|Breather tanks]]
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Fuel System Filler Cap|Filler/filler cap]]

== Alternative fuels ==
*LPG
**[[Alternative Fuels type of system|Type of system]]
**[[Alternative Fuels spark plugs|Spark plugs]]
**[[Alternative Fuels cheap filling stations|Cheap filling stations]]
**[[Alternative Fuels engine tuning|Engine tuning]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Fuel economy|Fuel economy]]

*Biodiesel Cooking Oil etc
**[[Alternative Fuels Biodiesel explained|Biodiesel explained]]
**[[Alternative Fuels Cooking Oil feedback|Cooking oil feedback]]

----

=Coolant and Heating=
==Cooling System==

* [[Coolant and Heating Flashing red light on dash|Flashing red low/overheating coolant light on dash]]
* [[Coolant and Heating recommended brands|Anti-freeze - Brands, specs, dilutions and capacities]]
* [[Coolant and Heating front pipe leaks|Front pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating main pipe leaks |Main pipe leaks]]
* [[Coolant and Heating overheating causes and fixes|Overheating causes and fixes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating draining|Drain]]
* [[Coolant and Heating bleeding system|Refilling and bleeding system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating New radiator|New radiator]]
* [[Coolant and Heating running temperatures|Running temperatures]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 1|Replacing original front-to-rear metal pipes]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 2|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 2.1]]
* [[Coolant and Heating System overhaul 3|Replacing water pump, thermostat and adjoining metal pipes - 1.9DG]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Instrumentation malfunction|Temp gauge and sender malfunctions]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Testing radiator fan |Testing radiator fan]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Oil cooling|Oil cooling]]
* [[Coolant and Heating Header tank top and up tank|Header tank and top up tank]]

==Heating System==
* [[Coolant and Heating heater blower replacement|
Hot & Cold Air Blower - Diagnosis, Removal, Replacement And Modifications]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Dash blower PWM upgrade|Dash blower PWM upgrade]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Air-cooled heating system|Air-cooled heating system]]
* [[Coolant and Heating - Heater hoses|Heater hoses]]

*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Excellent article on improving VW a/c insulation & heating system]

----

= Gearbox Clutch CVJs Driveshafts (not Syncro front)=
==Automatic specific==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic General Info|Automatics - General Information]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Oil|Gearbox oil checking/changing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Automatic Gearbox Parts|Automatic gearbox - Parts and finding them]]

==Manual gearbox specific==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Warnings|Gearbox ##Warnings##]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch Pictures|Clutch - pictures]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs clutch slave replacement|Clutch slave cylinder replacement]]
*[[Gearbox Cutch CVs - Clutch slave-cylinder|Clutch slave-cylinder and pipework]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Clutch pedal not disengaging|Clutch not disengaging]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Removing the clutch|Removing the clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Re-installing clutch|Re-installing clutch]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3|Renovating 4 speed change mechanism Pt3]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism|Adjusting 4 speed change mechanism]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt1]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism Pt2]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments|Renovating 5 speed change mechanism - adjustments]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gear change reluctance|Gear change reluctance]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Sloppy gear change improving|Improving sloppy g/c & g/c part nos.]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Gear selection process|Gear selection process]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Fitting Repair Kit_01|Gearlever pivot repair kit - fitting]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearchange images|Gearchange selection rod pictures and drawings]]

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Short shifter|Short shifter gearchange kit]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Transaxle Code|Transaxle Code]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Uprated Clutch|Diesel Uprated Clutch]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel clutch change|Diesel clutch installation considerations]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox type swap|Gearbox type swap (425 & 524)]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket|Diesel Clutch Slave Bracket - Breakage]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug| Drain plug removal, emptying and filling ]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints Gearbox oil|Gearbox oil]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs - Gearbox corrosion prevention]]
*[http://forum.80-90.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=30903 80-90 thread on clutch slave cylinder pipes]

==Common gearbox i.e. automatic and manual==
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints diagnosing|Diagnosing]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Output shaft oil leak repair|Output shaft oil leaks repair]]
*[http://www.rjes.com/html/gearbox_types.html Link to RJES gearbox code chart]

==CV's and Driveshafts==

*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints repair|CV joints repair]]
*[[Gearbox Clutch CVs Driveshaft/CVJ condition check|Driveshaft/CVJ condition check]]

----

= VW Electrics (not camper interior specific)=

*Electrical System
** [[VW Electrics fuse box|Main fuse box]]
** [[VW Electrics main cables|Replacing - starter - battery - alternator cable]]
** [[VW Electrics battery to dash|Upgrading power connection to dash]]
** [[Vw Electrics rear lighting wire colours|Rear lighting wire colours]]
** [[VW Electrics Haynes wiring diagrams|Haynes wiring diagrams]]
** [[VW Electrics Starter motor|Starter motor]]
** [[VW Electrics Diesel battery to starter cable|Diesel battery to starter cable]]
** [[VW Electrics Electric wing mirrors|Electric wing mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Wiring heated LT Mirrors|Wiring heated LT Mirrors]]
** [[VW Electrics Brake warning light|Brake warning light]]
** [[VW Electrics Windscreen Wipers|Windscreen wiper functions]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlight Upgrade|Round Headlight Upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Square Headlights|Square Headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight Adjustment|Headlight Adjustment]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternators|Alternators/Generators]]
** [[VW Electrics Ignition Coil|Ignition Coil]]
** [[VW Electrics Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges |Non working temperature and/or fuel gauges]]
** [[VW Electrics rewiring Dashboard multipin connector|Rewiring Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Dashboard multipin connector pinout |Dashboard multipin connector pinout]]
** [[VW Electrics Repairing Dashboard multipin connector|Repairing Dashboard multipin connector]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Barrel|Changing Ignition Barrel]]
** [[VW Electrics Changing Ignition Switch|Changing Ignition Switch]]
** [[VW Electrics Understanding Components|Simple Guide to Electronic components]]

*Troubleshooting
** [[VW Electrics bad earths|Bad earths]]
** [[VW Electrics alternator checking|Alternator checking]]
** [[VW Electrics tracing battery discharging cause|Tracing battery discharging cause]]
** [http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]

*Upgrades and Modifications
** [[VW Electrics Fitting intermittent wipers|Intermittent wipers]]
** [[VW Electrics Upgrading headlights|Upgrading headlights]]
** [[VW Electrics Round Headlights To Square|Round Headlights To Square]]
** [[VW Electrics Headlight warning buzzer|Headlight warning buzzer]]
** [[VW Electrics Rear fog lights|Rear fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics front fog lights|Front fog lights]]
** [[VW Electrics Heater control Illumination|Heater control illumination]]
** [[VW Electrics Dash Fan Control Upgrade|Dash Fan Control Upgrade)]]
** [[VW Electrics dash lights upgrade|Dash lights upgrade]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator sizes|Alternator size formula & tutorial]]
** [[VW Electrics LED Number plate light|LED Number plate light]]
** [[VW Electrics 12 volt live feed only when engine running|12 volt live feed only when engine running]]
** [[VW Electrics Stereo feed from both batteries|Stereo feed from both batteries]]
** [[VW Electrics Adding an independent or new horn|Adding an independent or new horn]]
** [[VW Electrics Smooth 12v/5v supply|Smooth 12v/5v supply]]

*Pictures, Diagrams, Lists
**[[Petrol engine wiring|Petrol Engine Wiring]]
**[[Diesel engine wiring|Diesel Engine Wiring]]
** [[VW Electrics Alternator 90 Amp Wiring|90 Amp Alternator Wiring]]

----

= Steering and Suspension =
* [[Steering and Suspension alternative steering wheels| Alternative steering wheels]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Alignment| Steering geometry/alignment]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Wheel Bearings| Wheel bearings]]
* [[Steering and Suspension springs | Springs]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Anti-roll bar| Anti-roll bar]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing control arm bushes | Replacing control arm bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wishbone bushes | Replacing wishbone bushes]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Seized top shock nut| Seized top shock nut]]
* [[Steering and Suspension Replacing wheel studs | Replacing wheel studs]]
* [[Steering and suspension Lowering|Lowering]]
* [[Steering and suspension Radius-rod and bushes|Radius-rod and bushes]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering|Power steering]]
* [[Steering and suspension power steering Universal Joint Replacement|power steering Universal Joint Replacement]]
* [[Steering and suspension Steering shaft joints|Steering shaft joints]]
* [[Steering and suspension Replacing shock absorbers|Replacing shock absorbers (with Sachs HD)]]
* [[Steering and suspension replace steering rack boot|replace steering rack boot]]
----

= Wheels and Tyres (not Syncro)=

*[[Wheels and tyres - Tyres|Tyres]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Alternative wheels|Alternative wheels]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres Steering/Wheel Alignment|Steering/Wheel alignment]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys|VW Centre-caps for Merc alloys]]
*[[Wheels and Tyres - Nut/Bolt Torques|Torques for wheel nuts or bolts]]
*[[Wheels and tyres Wheel offset (ET)|Wheel offset (ET) explained ]]
*[[Wheels and tyres - Speedometer Cable|Speedometer Cable]]
----

=Brakes=
*[[Brakes front caliper replacement|front caliper replacement]]
*[[Brakes brake pipe parts| Brake pipe parts]]
*[[Brakes Rear Backplate| Rear Backplate]]
*[[Brakes Pulsing brake pedal| Pulsing brake pedal]]
*[[Brakes Rear brake servicing| Rear brake servicing]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding brake system| Bleeding brake system]]
*[[Brakes Bleeding nipples| Bleeding nipples]]
*[[Brakes Front handbrake cable| Front handbrake cable]]
*[[Brakes Rear handbrake cables| Rear handbrake cables]]
*[[Brakes poor brake performance diagnostics| poor brake performance diagnostics]]
----

= Body Work, Chassis and Glass =

==Painting your van==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Painting |Painting - General]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Roller painting |Rollering Rustoleum - Paint your van for £50]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window removal and refitting|Window removal and refitting]]

==Windscreen==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen Removing|Removing windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Windscreen re-fitting|Windscreen re-fitting]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
http://campervanculture.com/2011/05/fitting-vw-t25-vanagon-t3-windscreen/

==Doors==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Doors locks|Door locks and keys]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Tailgate lock|Tailgate lock]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Sliding Door and Parts|Sliding Door and parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Door seals|Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Guide to fitting Cab Door seals|Guide to fitting Cab Door seals]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Window scrapers |Window scrapers]]

==Leaks==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Leaking windscreen|Leaking windscreen]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Footwell leaks| Foot-well leaks]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]

==Insulation==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Insulation|Insulation]]

==Parts==
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts|Pictures of parts]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass Parts DIY|Pictures of DIY parts]]

==Rust==

===General Information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust|Rust and some treatments]]
**[[Areas that rust - General|General list of areas that rust]]
**[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting|Electrolytic de-rusting of parts]]
**[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Internal section inspection method e.g. for rust]]

===Specific areas (details, photos, articles, etc)===

**[[Areas that rust - Kitchen panel|Kitchen/fridge body side panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Snorkel box|Snorkel box]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear chassis|Rear chassis]]
**[[Areas that rust - Rear cross-member|Rear cross-member and repair]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front bumper valance|Front bumper valance]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front panel lower|Front panel lower]]
**[[Areas that rust - Cab step|Cab steps]]
**[[Areas that rust - Inner Sills|Inner Sills]]
**[[Areas that rust - Floor sliding door side|Floor - sliding door side]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front jacking points|Front jacking points]]
**[[Areas that rust - Behind VW underseal|Behind VW underseal]]
**[[Areas that rust - Front seat-belt anchors|Seat-belt anchor plates (front)]]
**[[Areas that rust - Bodypanels rear|Rear wing bodypanels]]
**[[Areas that rust - Offside outer sill|Offside (kitchen) outer sill & panel]]
**[[Areas that rust - Window frames|Window frame rust repair]]
**[http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173 Seriously rusty van repairs - shows many areas exposed - excellent photo journal]

===Other relevant information===

**[[Bodywork and Glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
**[[Techniques - Welding|Techniques - Welding]]
**[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis Cleaning Tools]]

----

= Body Accessories Exterior =
*[[Body accessories square headlights| Square headlights alternative]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Wing mirrors|Wing mirrors]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Doka tarps|Doka tarps, tonneaus, covers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior Removing decals and stickers|Removing decals and stickers]]
* [[Body accessories exterior gutter trim |Gutter trim]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior - Wheel Centre caps|Wheel centre Caps]]
* [[Body accessories intermittant wipers|Intermittant wipers]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Left hand drive headlights and the MOT|Left hand drive headlights and the MOT]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior indicator screws|Indicator screws]]
* [[Body Accessories Exterior Regulations|Regulations]]
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/georgina_shaun/T3_website/spoiler_fitting.html Fitting a spoiler]
* [https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/207546/V796.pdf Rules on number plates]

----

=Interior (non camping)=
==Seatbelts==
*[[Interior non camping fitting rear 3 point belts|Fitting rear 3 point belts]]
*[[Interior non camping seatbelt legality|Seatbelt legality]]

==Seats==

*[[Interior non camping Caravelle seat arms|Caravelle seat arms]]
*[[Interior non camping alternative front seats|Alternative front seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest fitting to rear seats|Headrests - Fitting to rear seats]]
*[[Interior non camping Headrest removing|Headrests - Removing]]

==Headlining/ interior panels==
*[[Interior non camping interior panels|Interior panels]]
*[[Interior non camping Headlining replacing|Headlining replacing]]

==Cab Door Armrests==
*[[Interior non camping Cab Door Armrests|Cab Door Armrests]]

==Dashboard==
*[[Interior non camping Dashboard removal| Dashboard removal]]
*[[Interior non camping Dash tidy bracket| Dash tidy bracket]]

==Tailgate==
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate strut lock| Tailgate strut lock (when bike rack fitted)]]
*[[Interior non camping Tailgate Interior latch opening| Tailgate - Interior latch opening]]

==Multimedia==
*[[Interior non camping stereo fitting| Stereo fitting]]

==Other==

= Campers =

==Camping Interior Cupboards, beds, etc==

* [[Camping Interior safety| Safety]]

* [[Camping Interior self build|Self build/repair/install, several pages here!]]
* [[Camping Interior Cab bunk|Cab bunk]]
* [[Camping Interior rear hatch ventilation|Rear hatch ventilation]]
* [[Camping Interior Removing units|Removing units]]
* [[Camping Interior Useful Westfalia specific sites|Useful Westfalia specific sites]]

==Electrical==
* [[Camping Interior - Electrical Safety|Electrical Standards & Safety]]
* [[Camping Interior Westfalia leisure battery charging|Westfalia leisure battery charging]]
* Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams
**[[Camping Interior Conversion specific electrical wiring diagrams Holdsworth Villa| Holdsworth Villa]]
* [[Camping Interior Fitting a split charger|Fitting a split charger]]
**[[Camping Interior Heavy duty charging|Heavy duty charging]]
* [[Camping Interior TV Installation|Installing a TV]]
* [[Camping Interior Hookup Schemes|Mains Hookup - Schemes and Safety]]
* [[Camping interior Solar power charging systems|Solar power charging systems]]
* [[Camping interior Solar panel fitted to a tintop|Solar panel fitted to a tintop]]
* [[Camping interior Facts about Auxiliary batteries|Facts about auxiliary batteries]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure batteries that fit|Leisure batteries FAQ (inluding those that fit) ]]
* [[Camping Interior Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat|Leisure battery removal from under swivel seat]]
* [[Camping Interior Zig Units|Zig units]]
* [[Camping Interior Wiring radio to leisure battery|Wiring radio to leisure battery]]
* [[Camping Interior lighting|Lighting]]

* [[Camping Interior Inverter efficiency |Inverter efficiency]]
* [[Camping Interior Towing connections|Towing connections]]

==Heating==
*[[Camping Interior Eberspacher|Eberspacher]]
*[[Camping Interior Propex|Propex]]
*[[Camping Interior Webasto|Webasto]]
*[[Camping Interior Other camping heating|Other camping heating]]
*[[Camping Interior Insulation|Insulation]]

==Refrigeration==
* [[Camping Interior fridge settings/lighting|Fridge settings/lighting]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge safety/fridge safety|Fridge safety]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge Manuals/fridge Manuals|Fridge Manuals]]
* [[Camping Interior fridge removal|Fridge removal]]
* [[Camping interior fridge servicing/Maintenance|Fridge servicing & maintenance]]

==Cooking==
* [[Camping Interior Cooking|Cooking suggestions and recipes]]
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Calor Gas facts]]

==Flooring==
* [[Camping Interior Flooring (Vinyl)|Vinyl Flooring]]

==Gas==
* [[Camping Interior Gas|Gas information]]
----

==Camping Exterior Campers exterior ,roofs, windows, skylights, awnings etc==
* [[Camping Exterior Westfalia|Westfalia]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting devon roof|Fitting Devon roof]]
* [[Camping Exterior Fitting pop-top|Fitting a pop-top]]
* [[Camping Exterior Electric Hookup|Electric hookup]]
* [[Camping Exterior |Awnings review]]
* [[Camping Exterior stop the drip |Stop the drip]]
* [[Camping Exterior Hightop side windows |Hightop side windows]]

* [[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]

==Conversions==

*[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions(link to media library)]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[[Danbury - Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)|Danbury Instruction Manual for Volkswagen Transporter (1981)]]
*[http://www.80-90.co.uk/techhelp/pdfs/Westy.PDF Westy camper plans in pdf format (German) - Thanks to Aberdeenbus]

==Karmann Coachbuilts==

[http://www.vwcampervanblog.com/the-rare-volkswagen-karmann-coachbuilt-camper-van/ The rare Karmann coachbuilt camper van]

[http://www.karmann-coachbuilts.com/ Volkswagen Karmann Coachbuilts Club]

==Campsites==
* [[Camping Exterior recommended sites|Recommended sites]]
* [[Camping Exterior sites to avoid|Sites to avoid]]
* [[Camping Exterior overnight parkups|Overnight parkups]]

==Touring/Camping outside UK==
*[[Touring abroad country specific legal requirements|Touring abroad country specific legal requirements]]
*[[Touring - Sweden|Sweden]]
*[[Ferry services - Spain|Ferry services]]
----

= Syncro =
*[[Syncro links page| Syncro links page]]

----

=T25 Alternative Engine =
*[[Alternative engine 1.9TD|1.9 TD]]
*[[Alternative engine 1.9 Tdi|1.9 Tdi]]
*[[Alternative engine Subaru|Subaru]]
*[[Alternative engine Golf GTI|Golf GTI]]
*[[Alternative engine other|Other]]

----

=General - Techniques, Tools and Tips=
==Useful Data==

*[[General Fasteners|Fasteners and fastener types]]

*[[General Fastener Materials|Fastener materials & selection]]
*[[General Torques|Torques]]
*[[General ISO Metric threads| ISO Metric threads, spanner and tapping drill sizes]]

*[[general list of nut sizes and torques|List of nut sizes and torques]]
*[[General VIN codes - decyphering|VIN codes - decyphering]]
*[[General Oils - Data|Oils - Data]]
*[[General Tyre pressure calc|Tyre pressures - Generic formula]]

* [http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm Torque converter]
* [http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf Zeus tables in pdf format (16.3 Mb)]

* [http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm Std. Imperial thread data (US source)]

==Tools/Sundries/Safety equipment==

===Tools===
*[[General Torque Wrench|Torque Wrench]]
*[[General Rear Brake Adjuster Tool|Brake adjuster tool for rear brakes]]
*[[General Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic |Tools for the T25 Home Mechanic]]
*[[General Thread Taps and Dies|Thread Tap and Die Set]]
*[[General Screw/bolt punch|Screw/Bolt/Nut punch (drift)]]
*[[General Impact Screwdriver|Impact Screwdriver]]
*[[General Screw extractors|Screw extractors (easiouts)]]
*[[General EMPI Rear hub nut spanner|EMPI Rear hub nut spanner]]
*[[General Engineering Scrapers|Engineering scrapers]]
*[[General Oil-seal extractor|Oil-seal extractor]]
*[[General Bench Vise|Bench vise]]
*[[General Thread File|Thread File]]
*[[General Thread Chaser|Thread Chaser]]
*[[General Battery Impact driver|Battery Impact driver]]
*[[General air compressors |Air compressors]]
*[[General Rivnuts|Rivnuts]]
*[[General Welding equipment|Welding equipment]]
*[[General Spot Blaster|Hobby spot-blaster]]
*[[General Glow-plug spanner|Diesel glow-plug removal spanner]]
*[[General Shelter-tent workshop|Shelter-tent workshop]]
*[[General QMAX hole punch|QMAX hole punch]]
*[[General Pipe spanners|Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners]]
*[[General Underseal chisel|Underseal chisel]]
*[[General Cleco pins|Cleco (Avdel)locating pins]]
*[[General Stainless Wire Brush|Stainless Wire Brushes]]
*[[General Chain wrench|Chain-wrench/Strap wrench/Pipe wrench]]
*[[General Belt finger sander|Belt (finger) sander {powerfile)]]
*[[General HD vacuum cleaner|HD (or industrial) workshop vacuum cleaner]]
*[[General Joggler|Sheet-metal joggler tool]]
*[[General Battery Chargers|Battery chargers]]

===Home made tools===
*[[General Homemade gearbox removal clamp|Homemade gearbox removal clamp]]
*[[General Homemade brake bleed pressure device|Brake bleed pressure device]]
*[[General Homemade working light|Cheap working light for inaccessible areas]]
*[[General Homemade Chassis cleaning tools|Chassis cleaning tools]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Improvised|Improvised deep-reach welding clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Welding clamp deep - Home-made|Home-made deep-reach G-clamp]]
*[[General Homemade Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning - Home-made|Soda Blaster attachment for carb cleaning]]
*[[General Homemade Emergency Welders|Emergency Welders]]

===Sundries===
*[[General Duralac anti-corrosion compound|Duralac anti-corrosion assembly compound]]
*[[General Assembly Lube|Assembly lube]]
*[[General LFS|Laminate fibre sheet (LFS) e.g. Tufnol]]
*[[General J-B Weld|J-B Weld epoxy repair]]
*[[General Cold Front|Cold Front (welding)]]
*[[General High Temperature finishes|High-temp paints]]
*[[General Anti-corrosion paint|Weld-thru Zinc spray]]
*[[General Rust-busters|Rust-busters and penetrating oils]]
*[[General EZGrip|EZ-Grip fastener head friction drops]]
*[[General Dinitrol Rust-off|Dinitrol (RC900) Rust-off primer (optional Chassis Black overcoating)]]
*[[General Rustoleum paint|Rustoleum Combi-colour paint]]

===Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions===

Safety, Safely & Sagely.

*[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
*[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
*[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
*[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]
*[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]

==Techniques==
*[[Techniques - Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts|Removing seized/broken studs/bolts/nuts]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rusty screws|Removing rusty screws]]
*[[Techniques - Loosening rear hub nut|Loosening (46mm) rear-hub castle-nut]]
*[[Techniques - Annealing dural sheet/plate|Annealing dural sheet]]
*[[Techniques - Cleaning/Trueing mating faces|Cleaning/Trueing mating faces]]
*[[Techniques - Removing spigot shaft bearing|Removing spigot shaft bearing]]
*[[Techniques - Welding|Welding and brazing]]
*[[Techniques - Bleeding brakes/clutches|Bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches]]
*[[Techniques - Soldering wires|Soldering wires]]
*[[Techniques - Compression testing|Compression testing]]
*[[Techniques - Removing rust|Removing rust using vinegar (from small components)]]
*[[Techniques - Digicam inspection|Handy method for inspecting inside sills/sections etc]]

*[http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Some electrical testing procedures from Fluke]
*[http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html Hydraulic lifters]
*[[Bodywork and Glass - Rust - Elecrolytic de-rusting]]
*[[General Joggler| Joggling (stepping) panels for seam joins]]

*[[Techniques - Sheet steel fabrication|Sheet steel fabrication]]

*[[Techniques - CB radio installation and aerial tuning|CB radio installations and aerial tuning]]

==Technical Information - non vehicle specific ==

===Electrical===

===Mechanical===

===Other===

==Featured Parts==

*[[Parts - Bodywork - Seatbelt anchor plates|Seatbelt anchor nut plates]]

*[[Parts - Turbo pipework - Murray aviation hose clamp|Murray aviation hose clamp]]

= Insurance =
*[[Insurance insurance companies Dealing with claims | Dealing with claims ]]
*[[Insurance insurance companies feedback| Insurance companies feedback]]
*[[TEMPLATE copy and paste this for your entry]]
*[[Insurance Camper|Camper]]
*[[Insurance Caravelle|Caravelle]]
*[[Insurance Panel|Panel]]
*[[Insurance DOKA|DOKA]]
*[[Insurance SIKA|SIKA]]
*[[Insurance Non Stock engine and modified|Non stock engine and modified]]
*[[Insurance LPG|LPG]]
*[[Insurance Postcode rating|Postocde rating]]
----

= Breakdown =

*[[breakdown ADAC|ADAC (Deutsche AA)]]
*[[breakdown Adrian Flux|Adrian Flux]]
*[[breakdown AA|AA]]
*[[breakdown Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)|Freeway (Via Glynwood insurance)]]
*[[breakdown CIS|CIS (Co-Op Insurance Services)]]
----

=T25 Media Library=
*Images
**[[T25 Media Library Classic Photos|Classic Photos]]
**[[T25 Media Library camper Conversions| Camper conversions]]

*Pictures of hard to get to places and bits you don't normally see (also see Rust and Interiors)
**[[T25 Media Library Interior stripped| Interior parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library Exterior Stripped| Exterior Parts]]
**[[T25 Media Library parts|Parts]]

*Sounds and video
**[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Multimedia/Help:Listening_to_sounds Explanation of Ogg sound format]
**[[T25 Media Library Engine| Engine]]
**[[T25 Media Library Suspension| Suspension]]
**[[T25 Media Library dripping air vent| Dripping air vent syndrome]]
**[[T25 Media Library 80-90 films| 80-90 films]]
----

=T25 Camper Manuals, VW manuals, Specifications, Literature, Magazine Articles,=
*[http://www.vanagonauts.com/2.1L-Vanagon-Specs234.htm List of torques and specifications, fluids etc ]
*[http://web.mac.com/gbotter/Club_del_Maggiolino_di_Treviso/VW_Camper_T3_A.html Lots of original brochures on an Italian website]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature camper manuals|Camper manuals /Autosleeper Trident/ Autohomes]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature weight measurments| Specifications/towing/weights/dimensions]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals| VW manuals]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature VW manuals Technical books| Technical books Haynes etc]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature brouchers|Brochures]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature magazine articles|Magazine articles]]
*[http://www.thewoodcrafter.net/proj/prpics/p93/p93.pdf Wooden toy template, can be modified to look more T25]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Origami|Origami]]
*[[Scanned T25 Literature Manuals|Where to get manuals]]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php M-Code M-Plate decipher website]

----

=Links & Addresses (Parts, sundries & other useful websites) =

==Parts & sundry Suppliers/Traders==
*[[Internet Links New Parts suppliers|Parts and sundry supplies]]
*[[Internet Links 2nd Hand Parts suppliers and breakers|2nd hand parts suppliers and breakers]]
*[[Internet Links Mechanics|Mechanics and camper converters]]
*[[Internet Links Carriers/delivery services |Carriers/delivery services]]
*[[Internet Links Electronic and Electrical Services|Electronic (ECU) and Electrical Services]]
*[http://www.dubdoctors.com/ http://www.dubdoctors.com/]

===Suppliers feedback gleaned from the forum===

*[[Elite VW]]

=Internet links - Other relevant websites=

*[[Internet Links non vw related helpful site links| Non VW related helpful site links]]

*[http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm | MOT testers manual in depth, you can download the manual opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/Special%20Notice%2009-11.pdf | MOT changes for 2012 opens as a PDF]
*[http://www.bradtech.ltd.uk/ |Thetford portaloo spares]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/gipsy/ Karmann Coachbuilts Website]
*[http://www.jigrah.co.uk/mhpark/Default.htm Hightop-friendly carparks]
*[[Internet Links other T25 and vanagon resources|Other useful T25 and vanagon tech resources]]
*[[Internet Links other VW websites|Other VW websites]]
*[[Internet Links Club suppliers|Club suppliers]]

*[[Westy jokers]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]
*[[Dometic Refrigerators]]
*[http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp MOT advisories online]
*[[Internet Links Stolen Vehicle registers|Stolen Vehicle registers]]
*[http://www.camperinterior.co.uk/index.html Camper Interior website, a photo feast... Take a look!]
*[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts1994/ukpga_19940033_en_8#pt5-pb1 Criminal justice act Part V relating to trespass powers to remove, may have a relevance to overnight camping]
*[http://s136500617.websitehome.co.uk/herman/ Herman the German (Westfalia Joker) - lots here incl. interior shots and brochure pics] site not active march20111
*[http://www.vwpix.org/eng/ VWPix, Boltze & Co's VW brochure site]
*[http://sbmcc.co.uk/forum/ SBMCC (Self-build Motor Caravanners Club]

*[http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN M-Code decoder website(Bottom right, 1979~1991 T3)]

=Misc tips, tricks and info...(including posting pictures)=
==Computer==
[http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html Latitude and longtitude format converter]

[http://homepage.ntlworld.com/robertj.green/T25/Knowledge%20base/GSF-POI/ GSF POI for Tom Tom sat nav]

*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum uploading pictures| 80-90 forum uploading pictures]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 forum clean url linking| 80-90 forum clean url linking]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks 80-90 Google Eath| Google Earth]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks GSF locations csv|GSF locations csv]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - How to resize images| How to resize images.]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks installing Firefox|Installing Firefox]]
*[[Misc tips and tricks - Joining the Waze Group|Joining the 80-90 Waze Nav App Group]]

*[[Misc tips and tricks - Windows PC - Fixing problems|Windows PC - Fixing Problems]]

==Parts Acquisition==

*[[Parts Acquisition - Main Dealer|Buying VW parts (UK, Germany and SA]]
*[[Parts Acquisition - Non-Main Dealer|Buying parts from other suppliers - Warning]]
*[[Parts - Non-VW Parts|Non VW parts]]

==Maintenance Bulletins==

*[[Fuel System Filler Problems|Filler/filling problems]]
*[[Body work and glass - Storage|Storage and over-wintering]]
*[http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html Heat Rust and Noise in VWs (That famous Bulley-Hewlett article)]

==Fuel Economy==
*[[Fuel economy unofficial|Fuel economy]]

==Performance; Power; Dyno results==
*[[Performance - Dyno results|Dynamometer test results]]
----

=Prices=
[[prices campervans|campervan prices]]

=Garages, Workshops and services=
==T25==
[[Garages T25 Specific|T25 specific garages]]
==General==
[[Garages General Recommended|Recommended general garages]]

[[Garages recomended Non UK|Garages recomended Non UK]]

==Services==
[[Services Recommended|Recommended Services]]

=Health & Safety=
==Common workshop dangers==

*[[H&S Dangerous Gases|Highly Dangerous Gases from common workshop sundries]]

*Safety equipment and H&S usage cautions (From Tools, Techniques & Sundries)

**[[General Face mask|Goggles & full-face masks (grinding)]]
**[[General Welding masks|Goggles & full-face masks (welding)]]
**[[General Angle Grinder Safety|Angle Grinder - Cautions]]
**[[General - H&S Drilling|Drilling - Safety]]
**[[General Battery charging Hydrogen gas explosion warnings]]
*Safety - Driving -Roadside repairs - Off-road etc
**[[General Hi-lift Jack Safety|Hi-lift jacks - Safety]]

Fuel system tank cleaning

2017-08-24T10:10:48Z

CovKid:

'''Dirty Tank - cleaning'''

Covkid:

If you have to remove your fuel tank and despite it being in good cosmetic condition, it has tar-like deposits in the bottom, these can easily be removed when tank is empty by using caustic soda which is cheap to buy. Let it sit for a day, ocassionally agitaing the tank to ensure all areas are covered. Rinse four times with clean water then wash with liquid detergent and water (laundry gel is fine) and finish by rinsing five or six times with clean water. You can dry it rapidly with a heat gun but ONLY use the tank filler hole. If you use a heat gun via the sender hole, you could melt the plastic exit pipe inside the tank. Diesel tanks are prone to deposits which can loosen and clog filter, so a clean tank on refit is essential.

'''Warning:''' Caustic soda can burn hands so wear gloves as well as eye protection and dispose of it sensibly.

Fuel system tank cleaning

2017-08-24T10:08:54Z

CovKid:

'''Dirty Tank - cleaning'''

Covkid:

If you have to remove your fuel tank and despite it being in good cosmetic condition, it has tar-like deposits in the bottom, these can easily be removed when tank is empty by using caustic soda which is cheap to buy. Let it sit for a day, ocassionally agitaing the tank to ensure all areas are covered. Rinse four times with clean water then wash with liquid detergent and water (laundry gel is fine) and finish by rinsing five or six times with clean water. You can dry it rapidly with a heat gun but ONLY use the tank filler hole. If you use a heat gun via the sender hole, you could melt the plastic exit pipe inside the tank.

'''Warning:''' Caustic soda can burn hands so wear gloves as well as eye protection and dispose of it sensibly.