12V Fridge Wiring - Help Please

[Apollo]

OK, so I have sorted almost everything in the van finally....

However just now when wiring the fridge I looked at the Electrolux (RM212F) manual and it says to connect the 'supply' wire to the side of the connector that is wired to the selector switch on the front of the control panel, fine. Then it says to connect the 'return' wire to the other side of the block, maybe obvious to some but is this the same as pos+ and neg- ?

Or do these fridges just run a power wire into one side then from the other side you connect a wire that would still be carrying some current, and then what you can't just loop this back to the loom/battery.. can you?

It has been so lnog since I did electrics but I do seem to remeber something about circuits needing to be completed... hmmmmm

I have had to install a relay and wiring as the previous owner had mucked about with the installation and it had been removed.

any light shedding on this matter is greatly appreciated..

[TOMMY THE CAT]

I take it you are talking about 12v rather than 240v?
The relay should go via another switch so that the fridge can be turned on after 10 or more mins as this wont do your alt any favours can break live or pos although it always used to be the n now positive....... 240v L N and earth should be reasonably obvious. Dont connect your fridge just to the aux bat without a split relay or you will drain the batt. Hope this helps ....I am not a sparky and its been a while D

[TOMMY THE CAT]

I just read my reply and it read s like crap come round and Ill show you! english language was never my strong point D

[Apollo]

Hey Tommy, thanks for the input. it is the 12v side of things. I don't generally have any issues with 240 or 12v. this just stumped me a bit as if it is pos & neg then why call it supply and return?

still thinkin and researching, would like to get it sorted today if i can... then fire it up and fill it with beer...

[dbroada]

having read TtCs 2nd posting first I'll ignore his first one

First, yes that is the same as +ve & -ve but Electrolux recommend that you connect the -ve back to the battery rather than the van chassis. They are quite high current units so a wiring back to the battery may help. I'm not convinced but I have done mine in 2 core cable just in case.

Again, as these are high current devices you should only use the 12v while driving. This can be done with a switch but forgetful people like me benefit by fitting a 2nd relay wired the same way as a split charge one to ensure the fridge can't be run without the alternator.

I actually have 3 relays, the first is driven from the alternator light and this switches the other relays, one for fridge, one for leisure battery.

[Apollo]

Excellent

Thanks for the input, I have the relay switching from the ignition which I think should be fine, then it can only come on when the van is running. I am not too worried about loading up the alternator on startup, thye are pretty tough, and if it buggers up i'll replace with a 90A that should fix it.

I currently have the relay wired through original Holdsworth loom and this grounds to chassis which I hope should be ok for a while, if you think this is a problem given that the relay and the loom return under the drivers seat I might take it across to the batt -ve at some stage...

I wouldn't have thought the fridge too bad I think the 12v side of things on this model the element is 95W.

volts/watts = Amps(would be very low draw) or have I got my Ohms and my pythagorus mixed up..

[dbroada]

I think you've killed two birds with one bush there

watts = volts x amps or amps = watts/volts so 95w is 8 Amps

I do all my theory first and then do what I first wanted anyway. If it works I'll leave it alone.

[TOMMY THE CAT]

Sorted then Told you I wasnt a sparky ....and mine isnt this model....oh well mine works just have to remember to turn it on after I get going. Was told to do it this way on this site as I had just 'rebuilt' the alter and was concerned about wrecking it! Anyway enjoy a beer and go to the top of the class!!! All the best D

[camper]

I have a devon conversion that has what looks like a split charge relay in a box screwed into the unit behind the drivers seat.There is no second leasure batt .There is the typical switch for the fridge on/off and press button on for the water.I had to remove the fridge and sink/ cupboard unit out for welding repairs and sill replacement.In my haste to get the fridge out i disconnected the coloured wires without identifying them for reconnection .As i have no second batt for the fridge and pump for the water i would like to wire up to the relay as to be able to turn the fridge on only when the alternater is charging.There are 4 spade connections on the relay wired up with two fuses one looks like a 30 amp and the other looks like 10amp.Would some kind person send me a curcuit diagram or how i wire it.I am able to work out which wires come off the fridge switch which are two green and two white for the pump but am not sure if the relay was supposed to work as a split charge to a leasure batt or single .

[dbroada]

is that Bookham in Surrey? If so you're not too far from me.

You can find split charge wiring diagram in the wiki section under camper electronics. You can connect the fridge where the LB would be. I think that the 12v heater can be wired either way but would first check that one side isn't at 0v with a resistance meter first.

[camper]

Yes Bookham Surrey 3miles J9 M25.I will have a look at wiki the camper electrics info thanks.