Power supply for 150 amp mig welder?

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 27 Sep 2008, 19:48

I've recently started doing a welding course and have read quite a few threads on the subject on here, so I'm now thinking about buying a 150 amp mig welder.

Just one question at the moment; will I be able to power it by plugging it into an ordinary household electrical socket / circuit, or does it need to be on a circuit that's a bit more heavy duty?

Tony

Post by **andysimpson** » 27 Sep 2008, 19:52

May have problems on full power, try it and see.

Post by **steveo3002** » 27 Sep 2008, 20:11

should be fine...no need for full whack for welding body panels etc

Post by **DiscoDave** » 27 Sep 2008, 20:26

usually it'll work on a 13A socket plugged in to a normal socket. i've got a 150A mig i plug it in to a 16A blue socket that i've put in out side!

you'll only have problems using it on it's highest power setting, unless your wiring in the house isn't up to much!

Post by **Mr Bean** » 27 Sep 2008, 20:50

DiscoDave wrote:usually it'll work on a 13A socket plugged in to a normal socket. i've got a 150A mig i plug it in to a 16A blue socket that i've put in out side! you'll only have problems using it on it's highest power setting, unless your wiring in the house isn't up to much!

Yes I agree with all that. I run my garage workshop via a 30mA RCD feeding 13A socket outlets and it sometimes trips when I switch on one of my welders or the compressor which is has a 2Hp squirrel cage motor direct on line start and in theory draws 68A on start up. (1492W divided by 240V = 6.21A multiplied by 11 for direct on line starting = 68.38A) If a switch connects when the mains waveform is at its maximum voltage -339V for a 240VRMS supply then the maximum instantaneous current occurs and this can cause spurious tripping as can letting you kit get damp in the winter. I do find I need to replace plugs now and again as the springy fuse holder bits get hot and bothered!

Post by **dugcati** » 27 Sep 2008, 22:44

Can vouch for it being OK short term on 13A plug... I have a 165A welder and it's fine HOWEVER!....
I wouldn't advise using it for too long on higher power on a standard plug and wiring as it WILL put strain on the cabling and start to burn out the pulg/socket!

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 28 Sep 2008, 05:54

Thanks very much for all the info.

Tony

Post by **oldiguana** » 28 Sep 2008, 07:28

yo dudes...my biggest welder in,t workshop is 185 amp.....running on normal 13 amp sockets......never had any problems really...as long as its a good quality unit,it should be ok on full power as long as you dont go daft.......just to be sure i installed a seperate outlet from the main electricity supply to the house then seperate isolator unit then seperate rcb in the workshop via armoured underground cable......the compressor seems to load the supply more than we welder tho!!.....but i have to run two welders for everyday use....me 185 is set up for heavy guage gates/railings etc...but for panel and repair work i love my clarke 100en......more than enough for car repairs,with settings low enough to weld bog roll!!!!....if need be

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 28 Sep 2008, 18:23

oldiguana wrote: . . . but for panel and repair work i love my clarke 100en......more than enough for car repairs,with settings low enough to weld bog roll!!!!....if need be

Oldiguana, how did you get on with welding around your side windows to fix the corrosion? I read your post about it, and it's a job that I'd like to have a go at (once I've had a lot more practice.

)

Tony

Post by **Nicola&Tony** » 28 Sep 2008, 18:30

Bought meself a welder off ebay today and will pick it up on the way home from Cromer in a couple of weeks time. It's a Cosmo 170 gas/gasless mig with two full gas bottles (small), regulator, auto-darkening helmet, angle grider and discs. All for £140 and listed as being "in excellent working condition" . . . I hope it proves to be as good a deal as it sounds!

Tony

Post by **Pepperami** » 28 Sep 2008, 18:53

I have a clarke 151TE and thats fine but i want a TIG.

Post by **dugcati** » 28 Sep 2008, 20:32

I have a clarke 151TE and thats fine but i want a TIG.

mmmmmmmmmmmm tig... I does TIG

but don't got no machine

Post by **Essex Nige** » 28 Sep 2008, 20:49

All this welding chat, i'll have to take mine out the box and teach myself how to use it....

Post by **oldiguana** » 29 Sep 2008, 07:21

Nicola&Tony wrote:
oldiguana wrote: . . . but for panel and repair work i love my clarke 100en......more than enough for car repairs,with settings low enough to weld bog roll!!!!....if need be

Oldiguana, how did you get on with welding around your side windows to fix the corrosion? I read your post about it, and it's a job that I'd like to have a go at (once I've had a lot more practice. )

Tony

...........eyup duck,to be honest i was s******g myself about weldin round the windows as with the panels bein flat theres no room for error or bad distortion.....i will try to get the photos on this week to give you an idea

Post by **HarryMann** » 29 Sep 2008, 08:06

Pepperami wrote:I have a clarke 151TE and thats fine but i want a TIG.

Me too, Clarke has been very good... esp. after i recentlly found that when using Argon instead of CO2 it needs about half the power settings... funny, no-one ever seems to mention that

Got a TIG I can use but it's too heavy to transport easily and no room for it

Window frames...

You can get a cold putty from Frosts Cold Front that sucks heat away locally, put it all around edge near weld to stop distortion, to some extent can be re-used. Use an 80/20 or 95/5 Argon mix on low power I'd think and keep stopping, do it in bursts about an inch long?

As long as wiring in good condition, 13A adequate unless doing lots of welding at high power (which you won't)

As Disco Dave says, a dedicated 16A socket off a junction box and RCD fed by a 30A armoured cable is of course best and recommended.