lowering a high top
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lowering a high top
Hi I have just purchased a hi top and was wondering if it is okay to lower it by 40mm or will it cause any problems.I was thinking of the Just Kampers lowered springs.
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- Iceworx
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I'd be interested to know this too.
I cant see it being an issue personally, but at 40mm I suspect shortened dampers / smaller bump stops might be required.
I cant see it being an issue personally, but at 40mm I suspect shortened dampers / smaller bump stops might be required.
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- windysurfer
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Mine's lowered on -45 AVO's which have then sagged to give a drop of around -60 and I don't have any problems.
Still on standard shock but the bumpstop will need to be trimmed
Have a read of this
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... wering.htm
Still on standard shock but the bumpstop will need to be trimmed
Have a read of this
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... wering.htm
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- Hypnovan
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Hi. I also have a T25 high top and i'm considering, among all the usual mods, lowering it. Let us know how you're doing with this and i'll do the same. Until then, be proud to have one which still bounces.
Some folk have -40mm front and less of a drop at the rear. Some have -40mm to -60mm all around, which I guess is due to evening the load. High tops weigh a bit more than other vans.... not crazy about alloys and wide tyres.
...until I can see the mods already done on other vans and feel how differently they handle, I won't know for sure what to do, apart from taking one of the qualified opinions on this forum and going with it.
The most reasonable drop, in theory, for my purposes seems to be a -40mm drop all around. What do you reckon? I don't want it to crash down every bump in the road like a go kart (it's still going to be a camper and it must be able to handle, rough and bumpy muddy country lanes and fields) nor do I want to keep on bouncing about on what could well be best suited to a Syncro called Zebedee. I'm also happy to run on standard steel rims and 'narrow' tyres (better for grassy fields and mud. discovered this while leaving Bestival festival site while others were being towed away)....for now...
HV
PS: Don't forget to have your steering alignment changed to suit your new geometry.
Some folk have -40mm front and less of a drop at the rear. Some have -40mm to -60mm all around, which I guess is due to evening the load. High tops weigh a bit more than other vans.... not crazy about alloys and wide tyres.
...until I can see the mods already done on other vans and feel how differently they handle, I won't know for sure what to do, apart from taking one of the qualified opinions on this forum and going with it.
The most reasonable drop, in theory, for my purposes seems to be a -40mm drop all around. What do you reckon? I don't want it to crash down every bump in the road like a go kart (it's still going to be a camper and it must be able to handle, rough and bumpy muddy country lanes and fields) nor do I want to keep on bouncing about on what could well be best suited to a Syncro called Zebedee. I'm also happy to run on standard steel rims and 'narrow' tyres (better for grassy fields and mud. discovered this while leaving Bestival festival site while others were being towed away)....for now...
HV
PS: Don't forget to have your steering alignment changed to suit your new geometry.
- Bilbo Blue
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I would be interested in seeing what 40mm lowered on the front only looks like.
I haven't lowered mine but at the moment my standard set up will need replacing soon. My baby leans to one side due to the cupboards etc. Theres 30mm difference between each side in ride height.
I haven't lowered mine but at the moment my standard set up will need replacing soon. My baby leans to one side due to the cupboards etc. Theres 30mm difference between each side in ride height.
Blue.
1990, G reg, JX 1600TD, Bilbo Arragon hightop conversion.
A camper, a longboard and waves - what more is needed?
1990, G reg, JX 1600TD, Bilbo Arragon hightop conversion.
A camper, a longboard and waves - what more is needed?
- Hypnovan
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Hey Bilbo, you know you can get shims which are designed (Check out Simon of Brickworks) to fit onto your suspension which help to compensate for the lean. I think Just Kampers do them too. Might be worth fitting to see if that changes things for the better before you go and get -40mm AVO's from somewhere and end up with the same lean, only 40mm lower!!
- Bilbo Blue
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Yeh, Ithought about the spacers but I feel after 18 years use, the old springs are ready to be changed anyway. Also I don't think the spacers will compensate for 30mm difference. I don't really want to lower the bus but her nose is a little high at the moment. I assume its the rear springs sagging.
Blue.
1990, G reg, JX 1600TD, Bilbo Arragon hightop conversion.
A camper, a longboard and waves - what more is needed?
1990, G reg, JX 1600TD, Bilbo Arragon hightop conversion.
A camper, a longboard and waves - what more is needed?
I would be interested in seeing what 40mm lowered on the front only looks like.
Better than just 40mm at the back
You do want the front a bit lower than the back, to give better turn-in and steering response, rather than the other way around.
There's Wiki stuff on some of this.. suspension alignment etc.
Getting that sag sorted sounds like No. 1 if the rest of the van is solid and all in good nick.
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mine is 60 all round, cool as
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- Pepperami
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[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd17 ... GI0226.jpg[/img]
Obviously mine isn't a high top but it is lowered 60mm using JK shocks and springs. This is a bit choppy on 18" wheels was a little better on 17". If at some point you replace the front arches this could cause problems as on sharp bumpy corners they will come into contact with the tyres, pulling the lip down as this is bigger on after market arches.
So the moral of the story is don't go too low and too big on the wheels.
And if you do, have a mate who rolls the arches up every time you see him. Cheers Lloyd
Obviously mine isn't a high top but it is lowered 60mm using JK shocks and springs. This is a bit choppy on 18" wheels was a little better on 17". If at some point you replace the front arches this could cause problems as on sharp bumpy corners they will come into contact with the tyres, pulling the lip down as this is bigger on after market arches.
So the moral of the story is don't go too low and too big on the wheels.
And if you do, have a mate who rolls the arches up every time you see him. Cheers Lloyd
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- alfieboy
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This is 50mm all round
[img:160:106]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x95/ ... ker002.jpg[/img]
[img:160:106]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x95/ ... ker002.jpg[/img]
No, just measured it, 30mm x 42 mm
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1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1