Replacing fuel breather pipes

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Bogwoppit
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Replacing fuel breather pipes

Post by Bogwoppit »

I think mine have gone/worn, so I am going to have a go at fitting some new ones. I've got the pipe and my Haynes manual at the ready :lol:

Bearing in mind this will be the first thing I've really done to my baby... obvious questions first!

Do I need TWO axle stands and a trolley jack as opposed to an ordinary car jack? Would I put the jack straight under the front axle and lift it, then push the stands under and let it down onto them? Do I leave the jack there too? Presumably I leave it in gear...? (I don't even know if they are front or rear wheel drive!! :oops: )

Then I'm told I run a stanley knife down the old pipes, peal them off and put the new ones on. Is it that easy?

I am assuming it IS the problem... I'm getting fumes inside, especially when I've just filled it up. The heat exchangers look clean... would it be anything else?

Thanks.
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Tracey with an EEEEE, or Teejay with two (EEEEEs that is) and an A, and Daisy WITHOUT a radiator! (But with a grill)

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fairwynds
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Post by fairwynds »

The problem could be any number of things, that a regular issues on these vans: from the breather pipes (either side of fuel tank, leading into two plastic 'bottles' fitted up inside the front wheel arches) to the joints actually on the top surface of the fuel tabk itself, to the fuel pipes at any point along their way to the engine bay.
MAIN POINT IS.....change the fuel pipes for good quality ones of the corret diameter and use proper fuel clips/fixings (ideally NOT Jubilee clips)
-see link marked 'Wiki' at top of your screen....
It is vital to keep the fuel hoses and connections in good order, especially in the engine bay. These vans burn better than Guy Fawkes! :shock:

You will need a pair of sturdy axle stands and a trolley jack rated to lift your van (a two and a half tonne one should do). Park on LEVEL ground and chock both rear wheels, and leave van in 1st gear (and take keys out of ignition.....it HAS happened!!!)
Lift front of van (the cross member is strong enough, but use stout piece of wood too. Place axle stands under the jacking points and gently lower van onto stands. Check and check again that all is straight and safe, after all, its you thats going underneath!
Dont smoke!
Drain fuel!
Store fuel safely!
(do I sound like someones Dad?!)
I always leave jack in place and just in contact with bodywork, in case I need to lift again quickly again.

enjoy what can be a grubby job!

:D

Keep us posted...
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Bogwoppit
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Post by Bogwoppit »

Thanks dad... er... I mean... Thanks fairwynds! :lol:

No seriously, thank you very much. I wouldn't have drained the fuel :roll: Duh!!

So would you say change ALL the fuel pipes anyway, or try this first and see if I still get the problem?

I'll give it a go at the weekend and let you know how I get on :D
I'm not laughing - I'm smiling loudly...

Tracey with an EEEEE, or Teejay with two (EEEEEs that is) and an A, and Daisy WITHOUT a radiator! (But with a grill)

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fairwynds
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Post by fairwynds »

If you dont do them all in one go, you just know that you'll be back to do some more later on....so it does make sense. Usual rules apply though, trace that pesky leak if you can first, then see what other horrors lurk, and if in good nick, leave well alone!
1.9 DG Bilbos 'Arragon' Hitop LPG'd by Gasure
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Bogwoppit
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Post by Bogwoppit »

Cool. Thankee :D
I'm not laughing - I'm smiling loudly...

Tracey with an EEEEE, or Teejay with two (EEEEEs that is) and an A, and Daisy WITHOUT a radiator! (But with a grill)

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Steve P
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Post by Steve P »

Howdy Bogwopit. Had to do the same to ours, when the last owner replaced the fuel tank, they did not put the lines back on to the expansion tanks, so when we filled up we were driving under the influence of petrol fumes :shock:
We also had to replace all the fuel line from the tank to the pump, it had become a little pourous(sp) to say the least.
Tia is a 1980 2 litre air cooled viking roof

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toomanytoys
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Post by toomanytoys »

IIRC 5.6mm (could be 5.7) fuel injection hoise is what you need.. this fits nice and snug to the breathers etc without the need for clips.. 6mm/1/4" will be to loose...

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Bogwoppit
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Post by Bogwoppit »

Steve&Bev wrote: when the last owner replaced the fuel tank, they did not put the lines back on to the expansion tanks

:shock: Duh!! :lol: Thanks mate. I think I'll invest in the fuel line too while I'm at it just in case.

And thanks toomanytoys :D I shall bear that in mind.
I'm not laughing - I'm smiling loudly...

Tracey with an EEEEE, or Teejay with two (EEEEEs that is) and an A, and Daisy WITHOUT a radiator! (But with a grill)

jaylo264
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Replacing fuel breather pipes

Post by jaylo264 »

wiki sez 7 mm i.d. for fuel pipe - ?? :?: jaylo

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Bogwoppit
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Re: Replacing fuel breather pipes

Post by Bogwoppit »

jaylo264 wrote:wiki sez 7 mm i.d. for fuel pipe - ?? :?: jaylo

I think toomanytoys meant the breather pipe jaylo :D It takes 5.6mm :wink:
I'm not laughing - I'm smiling loudly...

Tracey with an EEEEE, or Teejay with two (EEEEEs that is) and an A, and Daisy WITHOUT a radiator! (But with a grill)

jaylo264
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Replacing fuel breather pipes

Post by jaylo264 »

Doh - my brain hurts ! j

skell
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Post by skell »

definitely do all the fuel line whilst you have the tank off, it's only a few quid for the length you need.

I would get the three grommets and a new filler neck seal (tank end) and replace them. if you are buying bits then also check the rubber at the filler cap end of the filler neck and replace this too if it looks dodgy.

Be prepared to find a grotty tank that needs replacing, or have wire brush and hammerite or some such at the ready to spruce up the tank if it is not holed.

Sounds a lot but I've done three now single handed without any bother.
skell
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