Got the heater going - the quick and dirty way

Big lumps of metals and spanners.

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Stefvan
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Got the heater going - the quick and dirty way

Post by Stefvan »

The dash came off easily in about 45 minutes. Then the fun started. There are six screws that hold the heater box on. The bottom two are easy though you have to pry around the coolant pipes to get to the right hand one.
The top four all project to the outside , the top two are hidden away under the "bonnet". The middle two are just behind the top of the radiator. As Covkid points out in the Wiki, these corrode and all the rust you leave on the end of the screw will have to be pulled through the captive bolt. So try to get hold of one of those little brass wire brushes the size of a toothbrush and really attack the ends of the screws. Then loads of Plus Gas or similar penetrating oil. Then get yourself a Phillips #3 screwdriver at least 200mm long and with a square shaft if you can get it. (For extra leverage with a spanner or molegrips) I made the mistake of getting a 150mm Pozi 3. (USE PHILLIPS !)So if you are lucky you can get the right hand top two off without shearing one off like I did. Then I tried the other side, next to the steering column. Awkward isn't the word, especially if your screwdrivers not quite long enough.... you need lots of leverage too, and I just dropped the steering wheel onto the seat, all plugged in and wheel on. So its a "bar-steward" at the best of times, make sure you are well armed and prepared, maybe preparatory plus gassing would be an idea too.
So yes you guessed it I stripped the head on the last one, the lower of the two which you have to remove the dog legged bit of fat vent pipe to get to. It is right behind the master cylinder. So I ended up chopping off the corner mount (It was getting late by now).
So at last I got the heater off, left the coolant pipes still connected, cables still connected. You can now put your hands in the front fresh air vent to get to the motor. Mine was seized solid as suspected (drew amps off the battery when switched on but no noise whatsoever) but got it spinnning with loads of plus gas and spinning by hand till I felt it start to spin a bit more freely. It never seemed to spin very freely though.
Anyway that is that, reassembly was easy, (I am now short of two out of six mounting screws but have two each side) and hallelujah the heater works. Reeks of plus gas, but quiet as a mouse !
I bought shear bolts in advance but should have checked first, they had already been replaced by normal bolts. I guess what you could do to be safe would be to buy a heater motor from GSF (£50) but don't unpack it :) and if yours is FUBAR'd you have it to hand to replace. And you will need the clips too to attach the box back together, but it seems they are on the very endangered list at VAG... But like CovKid says, 9 times out of 10 the motor will just have seized solid due a bit of corrosion and not being used.[/b]
1990 California Pop Top GTI

campervanman
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Got the heater going - the quick and dirty way

Post by campervanman »

My heater motor had gone the other way - knackered bearings and brushes from having been running all the time the old girl had the ignition switched on. Fortunately the heater on the spares vehicle I had stashed away had a functional motor and in a casing with the securing clips but still had to swap over part of the heater casing as the air outlet hose connections were different on the donor vehicle -'86 diesel - to the recepient - '88 1.9 wasserboxer. Withe care, the sealed case can be split so it can be re-used but you do need the clips.

Fritz
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Post by Fritz »

Hey when ours goes Titz up do you fancy coming and sorting it out...


Regards

Fritz,,,,,,
One day you will find me,,
Driving in my Camper,
With a Surf and Paisley wrap on both sides....

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ringo
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Post by ringo »

Very good post Stephan - thanks for that.

My heater sounds horrible - it goes round but makes horrible noises like the fan is catching on the surround..

I cant really picture it in my head at the moment - but is do you have to split the heater open to change the blower? Is this were the new clips become an issue?

Thanks

Ringo
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.

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jpee
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Post by jpee »

My heater fan made horrible banshee like squealing noise. sprayed wd40 through front vent. quiet as a mouse now
Never sure where I'm going till i get there.

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ringo
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Post by ringo »

jpee wrote:My heater fan made horrible banshee like squealing noise. sprayed wd40 through front vent. quiet as a mouse now

Which vent?

I havent got a front vent. At least i dont think i have :?

Thanks

Ringo
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.

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maxstu
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Post by maxstu »

jpee wrote

My heater fan made horrible banshee like squealing noise. sprayed wd40 through front vent. quiet as a mouse now

Common, my good man. Out with it please. :arrow: As Ringo said, which vent is this?
My blower's gone west too recently. And if it means a bid of spraying somewhere instead of ripping apart the dash.... I GOTTA KNOW :lol:
MaxStu
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".

Stefvan
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Post by Stefvan »

I t is with sadness I have to report that the fix didn't work... or did but only for a few days. I think the plus gas must have dried out because now the heater blower is blowing fuses. So i have to source a new blower motor and some heater box clips. But at least I'll be able to get the blower motor out reasonably quickly.

Stefvan
1990 California Pop Top GTI

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