looking for a second hand engine? - be careful what you buy

Post by **clartsonly** » 20 Apr 2007, 08:24

I was looking to buy a secondhand engine to put into my T25 whilst I was refurbishing the current engine. and noticed this ebay item..

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I didn't win it.. but then it reappeared here

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a slightly different advert... I have managed to get these pictures from the person that returned it. It appears to be heavily leaking oil and suspiciously also from the crankshaft do you think? one of the engine - gearbox studs has been cut ( not an easy job to rectify ). I was also told that the head bolts have started to corode.

I may still bid on it purely for the inlet manifold and carb, but just be aware that if you do want to look for a new engine.. sometimes there are obvious problems with it not advertised.

I hope no one on here is selling this, in my opinion if it is possible that the oil is coming from the crankshaft this should be disclosed.

obviously if in your opinion this is not a risk in buying please enlighten me, as I still do need another engine.

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pictures I have been sent.

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... pully2.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... fpully.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... tudoil.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... utstud.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... flange.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... tubes2.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... tubes3.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... tubes4.JPG

http://clartsonly.com/clartsonly/rubbis ... dtubes.JPG

Post by **Tex Ritter** » 20 Apr 2007, 08:53

Jings! it looks in real "pooh" order, he certainly hasn't made any attempt to clean it - or maintain it? - and it looks from where I'm sitting that it wouldn't be a simple case of buy and fit!

Worth watching 'tho, if your desperate.

Tex Ritter

owlets · Post by **owlets** » 20 Apr 2007, 08:58

At the bottom, two sides to every story

If you want an inlet manifold and carb, I've got one off a DG however. The manifold is fine but the carb needs a refurb

Post by **HarryMann** » 20 Apr 2007, 09:03

Clartsonly,

Polite message - Please do not post 1600 x 1200 images on the forum, please either reduce them to 800 x 600 and less than about 80K, or just link to them elsewhere - Thanks!

Have replaced embedded images with links and overly long web links url'd and aliased...

If you need to see how this is done, simply 'E D I T' your post and inspect the code.

Cheers

Post by **clartsonly** » 20 Apr 2007, 10:15

yeah sorry about the images, they looked alright on my screen.

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I think if anyone is expecting a perfect order 20 year old engine they must be living in cloud cookoo land, but the way I would see this purchase going is this..

1) the exhaust studs will snap on replacement attempt requiring drilling and helicoil.

2) the flywheel will need removing (I couldn't manage to undo one single bolt on mine) in order to stop the clutch from slipping because of the crankshaft oil seal leak.

3) when I finally gave up trying to use removal tools and drill out my gearbox stud, I went straight through the threaded section into the pushrod tube, I know that is operator error.

4) don't know about changing the crankshaft oil seal at pully end.

5) don't know about changing push rod tubes so I can be corrected here, but I thought the head required removing, unless you buy the spring loaded ones for £35 each? and if this is the case then the chances are the liners will come away from their seats, then you may as well say that the liners get replaced, surely then you need to replace the pistons, rings etc etc.. and it becomes a complete refurb.. and that is before it has even driven a mile..

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of course the advantage of buying a complete engine like this one advertised, is you get a starter motor, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, inlet manifold, carb which would cost a fortune to buy normally. and paying £200 or so for all of that is very good value. and then perhaps you could buy the block for £600 from elite. I am assuming the elite engines do not include any ancilary components or carb?

I was originally hoping to simply swap my DF for this DG then sell my DF and get my money back. but if I do go for this one it will be a strip down and rebuild, good practise though.

Post by **HarryMann** » 20 Apr 2007, 12:11

yeah sorry about the images, they looked alright on my screen.

OK, but most won't be running 1600*1200 res, even these days!

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Another thing to be aware of are the corrosion levels, sometimes all those ancillaries can be corroded to hell & back, if got salty then left outside for goodly while, even had one with an inlet manifold perforated by rust and barely a nut or bolt that didn't need chopping off.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 23 Apr 2007, 08:35

Mmm..
Ita an early engine and therefore the main bearings are (were) very difficult to get hold of..
The head studs WILL snap as soon as a spanner is applied and the remaining stud will be an absolute pig to get out...

To be fair it looks like most other 20 year old engines that have a weep.. and it looks like its mostly from the pushrod tubes.. the main seal looks to be ok... as the edge of the the flywheel is dry.. the oil behind the pully will be from the breather tower and the oil pump cover, these always leak...

If you want to upgrade to a DG then ask Elite how much.. or ask one of the breakers on here what they have.. or better still get a MV/DJ 2.1 and fit the DG carb and manifold to it and have even more pulling power..

To me. that engine would be a get you out of trouble (if it really is a good runner) but would break down in the not too distant future.. or for for the ancillary parts..