Ford Mondeo st220 into '88 Caravelle

[silverbullet]

You need a 2.1 fuel pump harness and relay box. It should be plug and play.

[Dueller]

You need a 2.1 fuel pump harness and relay box. It should be plug and play.

Does that have both a positive live and a switched live?

Fuel pump is fine, starter is on the van too for less load, its the immob PATS system on the Ford engine that's the issue for me

I fitted it initially to the 12v live coil wire that supplied power to the fuel and start relays that also feed the ECU but was a no go, undid everything and put it back to how i got it and fired straight up

[silverbullet]

Even the Haynes T3 Book of Lies™ has the current flow diagrams for efi fuel system.
If you can't afford or source a Bentley manual, its a poor second but will tell you most of what you need to know.

[Dueller]

Even the Haynes T3 Book of Lies™ has the current flow diagrams for efi fuel system.
If you can't afford or source a Bentley manual, its a poor second but will tell you most of what you need to know.

I shall dig one out cheers

[Dueller]

Been busy making a new engine bar as the old one was crappy and got in the way of the exhaust. Passenger side mount I wasn't sure of but need it this way to mount the alternator, tomorrow's job.



Also worked on the throttle body as a cable for the st220 isn't available so bought a generic cheap Transit one off ebay and modded it by lengthening and drilling it out for a bolt fitment. Had to lengthen the arm by 25mm to make it swing to WOT and drilled it to take the cable end, also drilled. I apologise in for the nylon nut, I'm not a fan.



Gave in and cut the bodywork, had to be done as the engine sat too low under the deck or too high over the deck, so I cut the bulkhead. Kept all the bits to make a new one up with once I've routed the coolant pipes and air inlet, which is pretty awesome.

Tomorrow is alternator fitment so I can order a belt and also the coolant pipes, I've lifted the top of the inlet manifold off for easier access as the top hose is hidden between the injector rails.

More tomorrow...

[Dueller]

Connected up all the coolant and vac hoses, used the Ford stuff and other hoses and clips off my DG engine, cut to fit and got really lucky with some being a direct slip on from the Ford to the VW. Zero cost here thankfully as some are scary priced to buy.

Can't decide if the plastic water distributor on the bottom left of the above pic is the top or bottom hose in my van, will need looking into.

Used a beetle shift rod to carry water from the filler bottle across the engine bay, proper pleased I haven't had to buy or source any fittings here.



Needed to remove the manifold for better access at the gearbox end for some of the plumbing, incredibly simple to remove.

So Valerie sits on all fours again, just needs a visit to the exhaust shop with my layout below to assemble and find a tailpipe, all after I'm happy with the cooling flow and then a wiring tidy up. I've a weatherproof box coming to fit in the engine bay and tidy up everything out of the way. Also need an enclosure for the ecu then all that's left is moving the immobiliser light and ring to the front but that's not going to stop me having fun.

[silverbullet]

Your V6 thermostat may well be a coolant return stat arrangement, which is meant to allow a more even and faster warm up. I dont think the T3 used this arrangement but I could be wrong. Never really thought about it that much but given that early Subaru swaps used to have all sort of warm up issues (that also have a bottom hose thermostat) and also heater flow problems (Subaru is full flow heater matrix with blended cold air, T3 is a throttled hot water valve) so you might want to look into it.

[Dueller]

Your V6 thermostat may well be a coolant return stat arrangement, which is meant to allow a more even and faster warm up. I dont think the T3 used this arrangement but I could be wrong. Never really thought about it that much but given that early Subaru swaps used to have all sort of warm up issues (that also have a bottom hose thermostat) and also heater flow problems (Subaru is full flow heater matrix with blended cold air, T3 is a throttled hot water valve) so you might want to look into it.

That makes sense as I've been idling for 10 mins and the thermostat hasn't opened that I've noticed. My dongle isn't connecting to my phone for live data feed so can't read the temp and the dash gauge doesn't move, alls right just no measureable temp change. When it was shown to me on his dongle it worked so hopefully just a faulty one i bought as it does work in my other car. The water in the filler bottle is also just over warm. I've a corded fault code reader and it's good for reading the engine but not live data.

Today I ordered another brand of dongle so shall see.

The throttle cable has been a real pain, seems to be tensioning up somewhere and not releasing after the pedal is pressed, yet when loose its fine, so I've ditched it and bought a full on custom set up, has more length at each end so should see it tomorrow with luck.

Also raised the engine more into the van by 65mm, where I live there are some pretty big speed cushions and I like to use the 'velle's clearance to drive straight over them. Engine bar is the lowest part now and the sump peeks just below the rear valance, still got the exhaust to hide this.

Engine is now needing a 130mm deck raise

The 1 degree off is the same as the van so when level both will be in sync, been a great tool for this project having a digital level

[Dueller]

So been busy sorting out the throttle cable and alternator fitment. Also refitted the gearbox to standard height by removing the 40mm spacer I had, van sits too low for that now.

I gave up on the Ford throttle cable as it wouldn't fully retract after pressing the pedal down, even with a return spring, bought a kit car one off ebay and a bit of fiddling about later it's perfect. Have adjusted it 5 times now but it's there.

Also ran out of welding gas so lost some time before I could get a fresh bottle. Also spent 2 hrs on Saturday driving round to find an alternator belt, went with the 5pk970, very common and fits perfectly.

Sorted the big charging wire off it and the dash charging light wire and so all is good there, just a fiddly job to align the pulleys and make sure there was enough movement in the adjustment arm for fitment and tension.

The water light keeps flashing on the dash despite a full bottle. I've previously replaced the sensor and it moves very slowly. The red and green plug ones I've discarded and will remove the wires when I sort the engine bay wiring and have a tidy up. Drove it for an hour and while hot the thermostat didn't open, needle stayed on the lower white quarter on the dash gauge.

Fitted a spare beetle mondo exhaust and drove around for an hour on Sunday. The autobox was nearly dry and took 2.5 liters of tyranny fluid. Considering my spillage and the leak from the base of the filler it didn't take long to lose it. So went from no drive to slow reverse eventually to on the road skipping about as everything lubricated. Was unable to hold 3rd again due to still low fluid, sorted and OMG it's incredible to drive now.

Yes it's loud and there's no engine lid as well as an exhaust port is open on the header, didn't come with a cap so there's that too. Did I say how loud it was??

I've raised the motor on yet another engine cradle as off to the exhaust shop tomorrow so had to get the height and position right.

It's very loud


I got another bend for my inlet that connects the air filter cone so just waiting on one more from the MAF to the inlet pipe and I can finalise this, will sort some pics next time.

[Dueller]

Exhaust shop wasn't a success

So I've bought a TIG setup and will get to work next week building my exhaust and air inlet system

Had another drive in Valerie and still incredible, had a thing with a t5 at a filter lane, he couldn't believe how I left him for dead...

Also swapped my plastic engine lid for a steel one with the guys at Union Aircooled so can get on with sealing up the engine bay, need to build a taller cowl once I've sorted the air inlet as at this new height it's sat at has changed the pathway from the air filter to the MAF

[Aidan]

that's a big engine, makes the 5 cylinder audi in the SA vans look cute and demure by comparison; looks like even the SA engine lid lift wouldn't be tall enough for it to fit under. Have you found a used rear deck cut to build your lifted one out of ? How many silencers are on the donor car

[Dueller]

Been busy doing many little jobs to try and get everything but the exhaust done.

Got that steel lid but as I'm working out the height over the engine my kid notices it's almost flat enough to be level with the folded down rear seat for a mattress to sleep on.
So I raised it a little bit and all is good.







Then I get a bit more creative...







Installed the sound deadening material, sticky on one side so went in brilliant. Had enough with 6 sheets to cover all the wood and the front deck.





Also got my clamps on that I ordered once I was happy with the air inlet location and pathway so thats done now. K&N behind the tail light and a few big rubber connectors later it's finally sorted. I've rerouted the 3 breathers yet again and turned the MAF sensor sleeve 90' so it angles correctly for the 45' turn.









Still got my lambda sensors to fit and I've started to make a bracket to locate the ECU and lock it in place. Will sit on a rubber mat for additional shock dampening. After that I will wire it all back up as is and get to work on the exhaust assembly.

Still want to tidy up the wiring in the van from the old engine but that can wait till after I'm driving.

Just need to buy a carpet offcut to hide the engine lid and finish the clamp mounts for the lid.

[Dueller]

that's a big engine, makes the 5 cylinder audi in the SA vans look cute and demure by comparison; looks like even the SA engine lid lift wouldn't be tall enough for it to fit under. Have you found a used rear deck cut to build your lifted one out of ? How many silencers are on the donor car

Hi mate, yeah it's a big motor on top and I raised it more as that weight has lowered the van so I'm on engine bar no3 now. Am wondering what suspension kit to buy as don't want anything lowered.

I've bought two silencers, a 22'' middle one that's straight though 70mm bore feeding into a 20'' performance rear one with tailpipe that's 63mm bore and has more baffles. The beetle mondo i grafted on is next to useless I'm afraid.

Hopefully it's a little quieter with that lot

[Aidan]

you might want to fit a rear lift kit and heavy duty rear springs and dampers. I'm not sure exactly what is available at the moment, Brickwerks maybe able to help and there's a UK company who do spacers a google search should find them

[silverbullet]

I qould say that those pipes are too big if you want to quieten it down. 63mm is more than big enough, thats 2.5" in old money. Your headers have plenty of bends which usually help to damp down the exhaust pulses but what you really need is system length. I'm not surprised that the first go with one silencer sticking straight out the back was noisy, compare that to a VWSpeedshop system which only has one silencer but is very quiet.
It could be that you need a small resonator after each 3-1 manifold before each bank combines into the final silencer.