Powerflex Bushes and Ball Joints

[Smiffo]

I've watched the very good James Akers vids on changing the suspension bushes, and all Ball joints.
Now I have come away thinking the ball joint game seems like a minefield, and the Powerflex bushes seem darn expensive.

Even if I get good money for my kidney in the for sale section here, is general consensus now still in favour of Lemforder make being the better variant?


 

[maxstu]

The only places l would consider using Powerflex bushes is where ease of fitment is a deciding factor. For instance, rear arms, or with OEM PAS rack (due to restrictions caused by hydraulic pipes).

Use whatever Brickwerks stock. Ive used Moog
for bushes in the past. No problems.

[Smiffo]

What about wishbone bushes?
Mine squeak like a field mouse
( BW do power flex for all bushes, but normal too and they are cheaper than power flex. Wondering if the extra cost warrants it then? )

Those ball joints are all OOS too. Im going to need to wait a while I think.

[Stesaw]

Only place I'd fit powerflex stuff is like on lower front arms and rear arms. Everything else gets OEM rubber.

For lower balljoints you or a mate will need a press to fit them or a friendly garage might do it for you for price of a beer or two... I fitted new stuff on front of mine last year, uppers lowers and steering rack ends. Meyle brand HD sets iirc.
The ends if the track rod ends hadn't been changed since.. well forever and wouldn't budge so I had to cut along them and open them out to get them off the threaded rod.. not fun.

The only bits I didn't replace were the wishbone bushes and radius rod bushes. Mainly because I know that would be an utter pain in the a*** judging by the end of the rods on the other side of the arms looking rusted solid into the arm. Also the bushes were not split or anything so don't fix what aint broken, plus syncro stuff was due to go on....plus doing those two jobs would meant setting tracking which I didn't fancy doing either

[Smiffo]

Only place I'd fit powerflex stuff is like on lower front arms and rear arms. Everything else gets OEM rubber.

For lower balljoints you or a mate will need a press to fit them or a friendly garage might do it for you for price of a beer or two... I fitted new stuff on front of mine last year, uppers lowers and steering rack ends. Meyle brand HD sets iirc.
The ends if the track rod ends hadn't been changed since.. well forever and wouldn't budge so I had to cut along them and open them out to get them off the threaded rod.. not fun.

The only bits I didn't replace were the wishbone bushes and radius rod bushes. Mainly because I know that would be an utter pain in the a*** judging by the end of the rods on the other side of the arms looking rusted solid into the arm. Also the bushes were not split or anything so don't fix what aint broken, plus syncro stuff was due to go on....plus doing those two jobs would meant setting tracking which I didn't fancy doing either

Has it made a big difference to the handling?

When driving at speed, it all feels light and sloppy, with constant steering corrections needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[maxstu]

Only place I'd fit powerflex stuff is like on lower front arms and rear arms. Everything else gets OEM rubber.

For lower balljoints you or a mate will need a press to fit them or a friendly garage might do it for you for price of a beer or two... I fitted new stuff on front of mine last year, uppers lowers and steering rack ends. Meyle brand HD sets iirc.
The ends if the track rod ends hadn't been changed since.. well forever and wouldn't budge so I had to cut along them and open them out to get them off the threaded rod.. not fun.

The only bits I didn't replace were the wishbone bushes and radius rod bushes. Mainly because I know that would be an utter pain in the a*** judging by the end of the rods on the other side of the arms looking rusted solid into the arm. Also the bushes were not split or anything so don't fix what aint broken, plus syncro stuff was due to go on....plus doing those two jobs would meant setting tracking which I didn't fancy doing either

Has it made a big difference to the handling?

When driving at speed, it all feels light and sloppy, with constant steering corrections needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You do know you are driving a T3?

Check a millions things. Change a thousand. It will still drive like a T3.
Have you check the steering couplings? Three on your vehicle... I think.

[maxstu]

On reflection, a tintop T25 drives and handles really well.
I took a DJ 2.1 five speed for a test drive (to buy the engine) many years ago and it went like the clappers. 70mph before changing to 5th and high speed cornering with stunning reassurance.

Then my pop top with Merc 15 wheels handled fairly well on standard bushes, for a camper.

Move to a high top and things start to wander around a bit. How l wish l had my old pop top DG LPG still. Such a cool looking camper. Apart from the towel.

[Smiffo]

Yeh, I'm not expecting wonders, but 60mph - 70mph range is 'interesting' 

I think those were done when I installed OEM power steering.
I'm sure it's the bushes, because it's always been like it, pre and post power steering.

[Rascal]

Only place I'd fit powerflex stuff is like on lower front arms and rear arms. Everything else gets OEM rubber.

For lower balljoints you or a mate will need a press to fit them or a friendly garage might do it for you for price of a beer or two... I fitted new stuff on front of mine last year, uppers lowers and steering rack ends. Meyle brand HD sets iirc.
The ends if the track rod ends hadn't been changed since.. well forever and wouldn't budge so I had to cut along them and open them out to get them off the threaded rod.. not fun.

The only bits I didn't replace were the wishbone bushes and radius rod bushes. Mainly because I know that would be an utter pain in the a*** judging by the end of the rods on the other side of the arms looking rusted solid into the arm. Also the bushes were not split or anything so don't fix what aint broken, plus syncro stuff was due to go on....plus doing those two jobs would meant setting tracking which I didn't fancy doing either

Has it made a big difference to the handling?

When driving at speed, it all feels light and sloppy, with constant steering corrections needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You do know you are driving a T3?

Check a millions things. Change a thousand. It will still drive like a T3.
Have you check the steering couplings? Three on your vehicle... I think.

Iv purchased these but didn't. Realise originals are rivited on.. Is it a case of drilling and replacing with bolts?

I have also essentially rebuilt the entire front end of mine.. And its worlds apart With the powerflex bushes. Yes it's expensive but all you hear is that rubber isn't as good as it used to be. So I'd rather spend the. Money and do it once then have to do it again in the near future .. All. Mine were either original 33 years old or had been replaced with genuine VW At some point also did upper and lower balljoints.

[maxstu]

Yes they are rivetted.
Do one at a time. Once the old couplings are out (Do not touch steering wheel, otherwise centre will be lost) hacksaw down side of the rubber to split the two rivets.

Mark clamp and plate to keep alignment (At 5 o clock)

Replace with bolts and locking nuts.

[Stesaw]

Before removing that I'd mark the locations with tipex or something so if you do knock something you can line it back up without problems   

[Stesaw]

Only place I'd fit powerflex stuff is like on lower front arms and rear arms. Everything else gets OEM rubber.

For lower balljoints you or a mate will need a press to fit them or a friendly garage might do it for you for price of a beer or two... I fitted new stuff on front of mine last year, uppers lowers and steering rack ends. Meyle brand HD sets iirc.
The ends if the track rod ends hadn't been changed since.. well forever and wouldn't budge so I had to cut along them and open them out to get them off the threaded rod.. not fun.

The only bits I didn't replace were the wishbone bushes and radius rod bushes. Mainly because I know that would be an utter pain in the a*** judging by the end of the rods on the other side of the arms looking rusted solid into the arm. Also the bushes were not split or anything so don't fix what aint broken, plus syncro stuff was due to go on....plus doing those two jobs would meant setting tracking which I didn't fancy doing either

Has it made a big difference to the handling?

When driving at speed, it all feels light and sloppy, with constant steering corrections needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll be honest It felt easier to turn the wheel at slower speeds and seemed less faffing with the wheel at speeds. My van tracked straight well before with the old and afterwards still tracks true. But the whole turning easier could have been just my imagination with the whole "ive fitted new stuff". 

Driving though the peaks when the wind hits you the van still squirrels around and I need to j j j jiggle the wheel a bit. Although I think one of the fronts is out a bit because I can go "slow" left around a corner and its OK, go right and I get wheel squeal.

[Stesaw]

On reflection, a tintop T25 drives and handles really well.
I took a DJ 2.1 five speed for a test drive (to buy the engine) many years ago and it went like the clappers. 70mph before changing to 5th and high speed cornering with stunning reassurance.

Then my pop top with Merc 15 wheels handled fairly well on standard bushes, for a camper.

Move to a high top and things start to wander around a bit. How l wish l had my old pop top DG LPG still. Such a cool looking camper. Apart from the towel.

That is a nice van Stu, what happened to it? also yeah poptops are great.. just got to make sure that when you're parked up to make sure when you open the roof that the solar panel thats affixed to it is pointing towards then sun and not away from it......

[maxstu]

In late 2017 l came across a high top auto 2.1 with PAS and ABS. Bodywork a bit iffy, but really drives like a car, plus the extra storage is very useful. And l hoped Maxine would be more attracted to driving an auto. NOPE!
I mumbled a silly opening figure to the owner and he accepted! S**t!
So we sold the red camper to a couple (Kate & Mike) in early 2018. We're still in touch with them and meet locally for a drive out and a meal.
I did wipe moisture from an eye when they drove off after buying it. We did 70k in that brilliant camper
Que sera!
That picture was taken near the Black Isle in Scotland. By coincidence and one year later, Kate and Mike sent us a photo at the same campsite without realising we had been there, too! We still haven't let on. And don't intend to.

[pleasestartnow]

I've watched the very good James Akers vids on changing the suspension bushes, and all Ball joints.
Now I have come away thinking the ball joint game seems like a minefield, and the Powerflex bushes seem darn expensive.
 

The ball joints are actually really straight forward
......in theory . I followed his videos as well and got tremendous help here and apart from nuts being stuck due to corrosion it was grand and could be done fairly quickly. The bottom ball joint is the only one that you probably can't do yourself unless you have a press, but the local mechanic did it here for like 20 euro.

The roll bar bushes and steering rack bushes can be done in place, I used powerflex ones about 8 years ago and I actually don't know if I imagined the van felt smoother or if it actually did. I just replaced the roll bar ones again today with non powerflex ones purely cause of cost. I will use non powerflex ones as well for the drop links bushes when I do them as well because of cost, even though I do love the bright colours