Metal thickness.

[SurfT25]

Need to repair holes at passenger rear and driver front jacking points.
What grade/thickness metal plate do I need to shape and weld to theses areas?
I did try to repair them last year but want our bus to last and not to worry if I have to use jacking points.
Thank you in advance
Peter

[clift_d]

From another thread:

Body tinware 1-1.2mm not much difference to work with but the 1.2 is better to weld and work with gives good support when butt welding /letting in.
1.5mm for steps,lip and edge repairs,inner arch repairs (around seat belt anchorages)inside of B posts down to JP.
2mm reinforcement for belt anchorages,out rigger repairs, to vertical support above rear arm mount (need lower rear wing/arch off to get to this ,so you should know what your doing lol.
2,5-3mm replacing top of deformation panel (which lower front panel mounts to )and main chassi srepairs
the above is a brief guide only ask for specific areas if you need more
ta mm

[SurfT25]

Thank you clift_d, great help.

[RogerT]

This is the internal structure of the front jacking point, without it you’ll just lift the sill into the B pillar.

I’ll post in a minute or two the internal struggles of the rear.

[RogerT]

A selection
Before


Progress


After that the base of the C pillar was rebuilt.

[RogerT]

Put up some pics of the bits you’re concerned about, we’ll see what you could do

[SurfT25]

Thank you all, much appreciated.
Here are the quick and shameful repairs I did to pass MOT last year.

Have MOT end of March and want to do better repairs so as not be be concerned if she's going to slump.
Have an abundance of things to add
Some can wait till after MOT.
Again thank you for your replies

[RogerT]

MOT check often just consists of stabbing a pointy thing at suspicious areas within the specified areas (usually near suspension mounts). They won’t find anything to worry about if the surface is solid metal, but passing the MOT doesn’t mean it has structural integrity. Just that your MOT manny or wifey found nothing within their proscribed inspection.

You can get a copy of the testers guide online, if all you’re concerned about is passing, or start digging if you’re interested in more.

[RogerT]

Adie’s Procrastination thread has the rear jp area covered

viewtopic.php?t=165773

[mioba]

You will get there OP. Quick and shameful repairs always bite you back. If you cant weld, get the repair panels you need and call in a mobile welder. Those jacking points are rotten (wet rust). Get the rust sorted and then the rest of the car. I have spent best of 9 months restoring my westy and its nearly there.
No one comes close to BW for part quality / price.

[RogerT]

And if you’re going to do it yourself, get a gas Mig, not gasless , better results on body panels (I think), and that means having to work under cover. And don’t tell anyone how long it’ll take, cos you’ll likely be wrong

[SurfT25]

Thank you for your advice RogerT and mioba.
I'm going to do it myself, well try.
I have a mig welder but not a gas one. Don't have a building big enough to take her so was advised to get a gasless one.
Did the trick last year on my windscreen corners

Am thinking of buying or constructing (scaffolding and tarpaulin) a tent garage. Will need this as I will eventually have to take off the roof this year As need to replace the gutters,rotting in some areas,the skylight was in a terrible condition when I bought it so big can of worms to open
Cheers Peter

[RogerT]

[SurfT25]

Took the plunge and have bought a gas/no gas welder.
This is on a 3 pin ( well 2 pin with a 3 pin adapter)13amp fuse.
Told in the weld shop it is adaptable for tig,arc and spot weld, when you buy the correct appliances.

Am trying to fix my wrongs from last year, cut out above left back jacking point
and hey presto another hole behind
Fixed that, shamefully another temp job but much better than before. Will have to replace jacking point eventually as when I was cleaning the mess behind the hole a lot of rusted metal came out
(Joint still structurally sound for now)
Fixed that bit

Started on the outer skin and am delighted with my body building result.

Big Thank you to YouTube "Trevs blog" and "Japhands" great help and advice on welding and body building.
I am taking my time practising and just successfully plug welded a piece of 1.2 to the car bonnet I mentioned before.
Again thank you all for your advice and your photo sharing, very inspirational

[Jim San]

From another thread:

Body tinware 1-1.2mm not much difference to work with but the 1.2 is better to weld and work with gives good support when butt welding /letting in.
1.5mm for steps,lip and edge repairs,inner arch repairs (around seat belt anchorages)inside of B posts down to JP.
2mm reinforcement for belt anchorages,out rigger repairs, to vertical support above rear arm mount (need lower rear wing/arch off to get to this ,so you should know what your doing lol.
2,5-3mm replacing top of deformation panel (which lower front panel mounts to )and main chassi srepairs
the above is a brief guide only ask for specific areas if you need more
ta mm

Would be nice if this guideline was added into the Wiki https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Techniques_-_Welding