1.7ky won’t start.

[PeteandNikki]

I’ve been carrying out a camper conversion on a van I bought for my daughter about 4 years ago. It has been inside my barn/workshop for the last 12months as I’ve been unable to start the engine., which I put down to the starter motor.
New starter motor and fresh battery fitted today and there’s plenty of fresh diesel. Turns over nice and quickly but that’s it, will not fire.
Even resorted to a sniff of easy start but no joy. It was running ok before the starter failed and nothing mechanical has been touched, so where do I start ? Any pointers please?

[davidoft1]

Any smoke out the exhaust?

[PeteandNikki]

Just a ‘chuff’ on what appears to be every 4th stroke?

[R0B]

Have you tested the glow plugs?

[davidoft1]

Just a ‘chuff’ on what appears to be every 4th stroke?

How long are you turning it over ?

Is the heater plug light on?

[PeteandNikki]

Tried turning over for about 3-4mins. Dashboard is faulty and has no lights at all! It’s a job for the end of the project. It did cross my mind that the glow plugs may not be functioning. Is there an easy one man test?

[colinthefox]

When a diesel is turning over but won't start, it's usually a fuel supply problem. Sure it could be all four glowplugs failed, in which case it's worth checking that there's 12V at the glowplug busbar when cranking with a voltmeter. If there is you should be able to move on to thinking about fuel. A couple of working glowplugs will get an engine going.

Don't use Easy Start. It can break piston rings.

First check there's fuel in the tank.

The injector pump actually contains two separate pumps. The first is a vane pump that sucks fuel out of the tank, and delivers it to the second pump, which produces the extreme pressure needed for the injectors.

If it has been standing for a while it is likely that the fuel has drained back into the tank from the injection pump due to a leak somewhere on the system letting air in. It's worth changing the braided hoses (leak-off pipes) running between the injectors (any motor factors sell these for a couple of quid, so I always keep a spare set in the van), and the small rubber cap on the rear (front of van) injector as this often cracks and lets in air. These only seem to last a couple of years before they start to perish. As most of the system is above the fuel tank any leaks will let air in, not diesel out. Next you should check that when cranking, fuel is sucked up by the injection pump without a stream of bubbles in the fuel flow. The pipe from the fuel filter to the injection pump should be translucent so you can check for bubbles. If no fuel is sucked up when you crank, either the injection pump has had moisture in it and the vanes have stuck, or there is a large leak between the tank and pump.

Now you are sure that fuel free of air is getting to the injection pump, it's time to get all the air out of the pump. In theory any air will self bleed out of the pump when you crank, but in practice the battery will be flat, and the starter overheated before that happens. There is a nipple on the fuel pump, and this can be used to suck up fuel using some kind of vacuum pump, or just sucking, but be careful not to drink too much diesel. Once the pump has fuel, there should be a bleed screw I think on the side of the pump body (it's a long time since I bled a Bosch pump!) Slacken the screw half a turn, and crank until fuel free of air bubbles comes out, then tighten the screw while still cranking. Once the pump body is fulll and delivering fuel you can move on to bleeding air out of the injector section of the pump.

Slacken at least three of the injector pipe nuts at the injectors, then crank AT FULL THROTTLE until fuel free of air bubbles comes out. Tighten these nuts, then if you have followed all these stages exactly, the engine should start.

Print these instructions and keep them in the pack with the spare set of leak-off pipes for next time this happens.

 

[R0B]

There are some handy tips here. https://www.wikihow.com/Test-Glow-Plugs 

[colinthefox]

Just checked the Bosch pump. I couldn't find a bleed screw on the side, so it looks like you can skip that bit.

[PeteandNikki]

Thanks for your helpful replies, I’m going to enlist the assistance of a willing helper to crank as I bleed tomorrow. On a different note I’ve had more joy with my old JX syncro . (See separate post in syncro)

[PeteandNikki]

Well I’m still no better off!!
You may wonder why it’s been so long since my last post, but that’s another story. I gave up after struggling with my attempts to bleed and concentrated on finishing the camper conversion, which is now done and my daughter needs to use it asap.

So, with the aid of a mechanically minded friend we’ve attempted to start it again.
Despite the new battery, starter motor and diesel filter….no joy.
We’ve cranked it over at full throttle for plenty long enough. We have diesel at each of the injector nuts but seemingly not at a great pressure, more of a trickle and I’m not sure if that’s correct?
We’ve checked the little solenoid cut off valve at the rear of the pump and also confirmed that the heater plugs are ok.
We’re stuck and need help please!

[T25boy71]

Are you getting fuel at the injectors ? 
 

[PeteandNikki]

How I’ll I know if the fuel is getting to the injectors? I can see fuel at the loosened nuts, but I’m unsure if it’s at sufficiently high enough pressure to be squirting correctly actually at the injectors.

[T25boy71]

loosened The fuel line nut on the injectors a bit get someone to turn the engine over when fuel comes out round the nut do the nut up then do the same on the other nuts as fuel comes out normally it will then start