Cruise control instalation and alternative parts.

[Robsey]

Mostly thanks to you Robsey. But would the tell-tale need regulating? I did the same test with engine running and current from module Pin 1 was same as alternator charge at around 13.4v.

You did the real work.
All I did was give moral support and a bit of reassurance that confirmed a lot of your own theories and research.

For the tell-tale...
I used the 'usual' format of using a 12 volt led.
Or an led with an inline resistor.

It is only the gauges and temperature-gauge led that rely upon voltage regulation (10 volts).

So nothing to worry about.

[maxstu]

Will test drive over the next few days and report back.

After that on to the next upgrade. -30mm Springs with new shocks. Then fitting new fuel injectors.

[maxstu]

Right! Im over the disappointment.

Everthing tested over and over. Yet still no cruise control. Nothing engages. Yet static testing of all components gives 100% positive results.

I have ohms tested the CC module again and found it is either faulty or kaput. Not sure why. Because when l bought it in early 2021 it registered good readings.

Now on the spy search for cold solders on the circuit board. If nothing found will hand to a local computer repair shop to examine.

So this update is shelved for now.

[Jilldub]

Been following this post with interest but unable to comment as I have no experience on the subject.
As a matter of interest, what springs and shocks are you going for?
-30 mm sounds good to me, not too low but an improvement in handling I guess?

[maxstu]

They have made noticeable improvements keeping the vehicle (high top) level when slowly hooning around corners or negotiating roundabouts. A positive outcome. And no difference to my mind in comfort either. I was worried it may amplify road noise. But no!
Yet in real terms (l measured top of wheel arches to centre of wheels before changing suspension) only a drop of 15mm once vehicle has settled.

Standard Meyle dampers with -30mm from standard springs newly enamelled sprayed.



Im very pleased.

[Robsey]

Oh bugger!!

I know you suspect a dodgy module, but -

If nothing engages, have we got all the switch functions the correct way round.?

I know you said you tested everything...
But.

When I fitted electronic cruise control to my Cavalier, it took a few attempts to get the inputs right for the cruise to work.

In my case I had the clutch switch set up wrong.
When first fitted, the cruise refused to engage.
I found by accident when I dipped the clutch and tried the set switch, immediately the engine began to race, until I released the clutch.
Then it disengaged the cruise again.
For me I realised that I needed a switch that cut the voltage at my clutch switch, not apply 12 volts when pressing the clutch pedal.

Changing between switching on and switching off each circuit (input) "may" locate your engagement issues.

I know we are talking different make and model, but both use electrical switches and / or inputs to control the cruise unit.

Just a thought...

----------------

Back to your springs.

when slowly hooning around corners

I detect a minor contradiction there - lol.

[maxstu]

According to my paperwork brake switch is live 12 volts going to zero when depressing brake pedal. The electrical twin wire connector only fits one way round due to factory moulding. Will test again tomorrow.
Im blaming module as l cant get full or correct ohms readings from the eight pin connectors..

Yes a prime oxymoron. lt feels faster than it is....

[Robsey]

According to my paperwork brake switch is live 12 volts going to zero when depressing brake pedal. .

Hmm - that seems confusing.
My head says -
Brake pedal released, should be no voltage on switched side of the brake switch.
(Brake lights off - no voltage)

Brake pedal pressed, should have 12 volts between switch and brake lights.
(Brake lights on - 12 volts).

[maxstu]

Yes. I see what you mean. Out with the multi meter tomorrow.
Thanks

[maxstu]

From another source (the samba) l had stored away in my phone.....

I better check my paperwork in the garage tomorrow.

'Pin 3 should be grounded through the brake light bulbs. Expect resistance of very few ohms through the bulbs in parallel.  If you have LED replacement lights you are on your own. When either the brake or clutch pedal vent valve switches are activated this circuit should go open. There is a safety redundancy built into this circuit should the vent valve switches fail to open, brake light power will be fed to this circuit.'

Thanks
Stuart

[Robsey]

Looking at your wiring diagram,
The current path should be...
Ignition live from G2 or G5, to the switch. (12 volts)
From the switch to the stop lights. AND the cruise module (12 volts when switched on)
Lights to ground. (Only 0 volts after the lights.)

The switch to ground would only happen if the switch was after the lights - such as in the interior lights (door pin switches), and the tailgate interior light.

[maxstu]

Thanks. On it tomorrow...

[maxstu]

More info from Bentley.
Went to van ten minutes ago and no power to brake switch now. I have power to module terminal block, so will trace fault after breakfast.

[Robsey]

I haven't looked at the cruise test procedure before.
It took a while to find it in the Bentley.

Being a simple soul, I was expecting it to be in the electrics at the back.... not immediately after fuel injection about 1/3rd the way in from the front.

okay - tests seem simple enough.
this is for testing the loom, so unplug the cruise module.

a) Testing Module Ground -

connect a test light to cruise loom plug (module) pin 8
(brown wire on loom)

other end of light to 12 volt supply -

bulb should light up.
only reason for failure is that pin 8 is not connected to ground.

----------------------

b) Test for ignition live.

connect a test light to cruise loom plug pin 1
(black or black / blue wire on loom)

other end to ground

turn on ignition.
turn on cruise

light should light up.

reasons for failure - fuse 18 missing (fuse pin G2 or G5). - no 12v supply to cruise stalk switch pin 4.

otherwise broken connection between stalk switch pin 1 and cruise module pin 1.

----------------------

c) Testing Pedal switches.

This is a head scratcher at first sight, but works in the same way as the charge light on the dash.
that is - charge light goes off when 12 volts applied by the alternator when running.

So connect a test light to module pin 1 (ign live side)
(black or black / blue wire on loom).

and other side of light to module pin 3
(red/black wire) to vent valves..

turn on ignition.
turn on cruise
test light should light up.

press brake pedal or clurch pedal - one at a time.
test light should go off.

reasons for failure - brake light circuit faulty.
vent valve switches not adjusted correctly.

--------------------------

d) Testing Stalk Resume Switch.

connect a test light to cruise loom plug pin 6
(blue wire on loom)

other end to ground

turn on ignition.
turn on cruise.
press resume button.

light should light up.

reasons for failure - faulty switch or supply voltage to switch.

-----------------------

e) Testing Stalk Set Switch.

connect a test light to cruise loom plug pin 2
(red/yellow wire on loom)

other end to ground
turn on ignition.
turn on cruise.
press set button.

light should light up.

reasons for failure - faulty switch or supply voltage to switch.

-----------------------

f) Testing Pump control

connect a wire to cruise loom plug pin 4
(brown / blue wire on loom)

other end to ground.

pump should run.

reason for failure - no supply voltage to pump.
broken wire between module and pump.
faulty pump motor.

------------------------

g) testing vent valve operation.

briefly short module pin 7 to ground.
(wire colour green / white).

the vent valves should click.

---------------------------

h) speed sensor test.

connect an ohmeter / test meter between module pin 5 and ground.
(white / blue wire on loom).

Bentley says that the sensor should have a resistance value between 90 to 110 ohms.

anything outside of this is said to be a faulty module.

i say it could be a non-original sensor that may have a different internal construction, and therefore possibly a different internal impedence.
or faulty wiring.

and that's it.

---------------------------------

[maxstu]

Simples eh!

Going out again to have another go.

Thanks for the recap.