A Numpty and his 2.1 Project

[Stesaw]

Nope, that goes from the choke spring to T piece hose that connects to the metal water pump to thermostat pipe and the coolant tank, thats how its always been.

[maxstu]

Off course. You are running a carb.

[Stesaw]

Well I won't spoil the "find the idiot moment" on that short video

[Aidan]

disi out by 180'
that coolant hose is wrong mind
and fuel filter in engine bay isn't ideal really

[maxstu]

So it is. Couldnt see on my small phone.
Two running engines in 4 days. A fine result for T25 ownership.
Well done Stesaw.

[Stesaw]

disi out by 180'
that coolant hose is wrong mind
and fuel filter in engine bay isn't ideal really

Hey how you could have just stopped at the disi is out
I was sure when I did the engine that I got it right, set the engine to TDC on cylinder one and put it in as the Bentley says with the smaller half towards the waterpump.. however I didn't check which valve had closed last on Number 1 when setting TDC. I guess it's a quick solution to just pull the drive out and flip it 180... I could leave the leads like that but it will bug me to no end.

When you say the coolant hose is wrong? you mean the one from the choke coil, I goofed when I said to Stu that it goes to the bleed rail, it goes to the sorta T hose that connects to the coolant tank and metal waterpump to thermostat.

Yeah that fuel filter does make me tetchy, but the hose connector on the fuel pump is a larger diameter so when replacing the fuel hoses I had to use what I had at the time, I'll replace it with a metal adaptor at somepoint in the near future. It's out the way over there so it doesn't touch anything hot.

[Stesaw]

So it is. Couldnt see on my small phone.
Two running engines in 4 days. A fine result for T25 ownership.
Well done Stesaw.

Thanks Stu, The 20 min break in went fine, then switched off to check for leaks, which there were none! Rad and heaters were all hot as well after bleeding the system again. Then checked timing which was about 5 degrees before the case havles on the second mark so a small adjustment and it was all OK, I believe the mark is 5 degrees after TDC wasn't going to time it to 10 degrees as it's got E10 in at the mo and I didn't wanna cause any issues.

[maxstu]

Good stuff, Steve..

Have you tried dialling in the timing at "all in"?
Mark the pulley at 35 degrees and run at 3000rpm. It's a bit more stable at 3K.
Gives you an idea of timing advance too. You will need a timing gun with revs display.
There's a handy PDF attached in this interesting article.

https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=162

[maxstu]

By the way, all the Vanagon US articles l have read regular petrol is used in the 2.1
Ive used regular in my DJ set 5 degrees timing for four years without any harm l believe.
I tested compression when l bought the camper in 2017. Again in 2019 without any change in readings. Still healthy....that was then of course
Now l have the 1900 engine attached to Digijet (GW?) l think l might test it on E5 and adjust to 10 degrees. Just to see if an increase in power is gained.

[Stesaw]

If you have vac advances it's digijet, digifant has no vac and a lamda sensor from what I remember.
I thought DJ's were timed to 10 degrees on E5 because of the higher compression compared to the 1.9's, I've no clue if you'd get any performance benefit, that's one for Andrew or other engine gurus

Yeah thanks Stu, I've seen the Gowesty timing vid a few times I might give that a go but with breaking the engine in I was following Andrews words to the letter so I didn't wanna do anything but a simple timing check . My timing gun is static so to see the revs I peer through the back to the rev counter on the dash to see what it's at

[maxstu]

DJ's run either fuels:
E5 super at 10 degrees
E10 normal at 5 degrees
US and Germany DJ's run normal 95 octane. Or known as E10 now.
Confusing, eh!

[Stesaw]

Yeah I know they are OK on all the fuels, I read up that you get get pinking on 10 degrees if you run E10. Last thing I wanna do is cause damage. Maybe I am being too careful, but I will have to see how it drives first before deciding on that.. Tomorrow I gotta see if I've got enough gearbox oil to refil it. I tend to swap between E10 and E5 each time I got to the pump anyway.

Then I gotta book another MOT before I go off adventuring again..

Oh, and I need to replace the balljoints and shock on the front left

[Aidan]

DJ was 4 star leaded era spec engine at 10', retimed to 5' for unleaded
MV was always unleaded spec as had a cat, but also able to run on anything down to 91RON as lambda gave ability to adjust timing and fuelling to optimise clean burn
running DJ at 10' on 98/99RON E5 can give slight improvement in running, power and fuel economy; if you cheapskate and run supermarket fuel then run at 5'
if running LPG then you'll find 10' probably better (even 12' I believe) and use the E5 as reserve fuel

ymmv and many will say they run 10' and the cheaper liquid gold perfectly okay

I ran my MV at 7-8' as a compromise for LPG and supermarket unleaded before the whole E5 E10 thing

[maxstu]

Interesting read.
So the timing figure's in any manual are really for guidelines? And the best way is by adjusting timing while testing with a CO2 gas analyserfor ultimate settings through rev range?

[Stesaw]

Bit of an update,

Last week I started the van up to a nasty noise. Sounded like rod knock , in the end after a bit of head scratching and listening when I ran the engine briefly it was coming from the front.. Clutch/Flywheel, bugger.
SO got my jack under the van to drop the box as I wasn't gonna mess with the engine and the seal abruptly failed on the jack sending fluid over the place. Ended up MacGyverin' a solution to roll the gearbox forward under the van so I can get at the flywheel. All the bolts were loose and had knackered threads due to being loose. The locating pin also got sheered, so took the one of the 1.9 only for it to ping off into narnia, so Stu saved me by sending one off a dead engine.

One brickwerks order later new bolts and degreased threads later, new dowel in, flywheel went back on, bolts in with threadlock torqued to 110nm. Clutch back on all aligned OK. Next day started the van up, no noise at all all sounding OK, allbeit a bit rough on cold start..

Investigation lead to the preheat not working for the choke or manifold. Leads get power, all cables tested for continuity and were OK. Bought another number 1 relay, still no joy.

With the clarification from Aidan cut the double plug off the sender to the dash and the gauge works.

After headscratching today I think it's my ballsup due to the thermostat housing i've fitted. The old one was a plastic one with the push / clip sensors, but it was knackered. Without much thought I bought the metal one with the corresponding two sensors as it was a lot cheaper.

So, as all the wires are OK and after some thinking the temp 2 sensor usually sends a signal to an ECU.. as I don't have an ECU I am assuming it wont be any good for the pre-heat for the manifold/choke as it wont have the same tolerance to switch the relay on? It's the only reason why I can think it doesnt work. The Inlet Manifold Heating Switch only uses the m10 size so I was thinking maybe swap the wires around and use the Temp 2 for the gauge and get a Inlet Manifold Switch for the M10 socket?

Van's booked in for MOT Weds and I'm apparently going to Devon the following Monday