Tonight I went around the near side trailing arm of the pop top taking loose rust off with a wire wheel and putting vactan on, will do the other side hopefully tomorrow if it does not rain and then rattle can it with several tins from the pound shop.
It's not perfect but it's a happy medium between leaving it and OCD treatment and it will slow it down.
I think as you or one of the other sages mentioned you either treat it when you see it or trouble is stored up for later.
I am dealing with the offside sill at the moment which has surface rust but nothing deeper. Looks as though it has been treated in the past by original owner for which I am thankful.
Every time I come across a bit of rust and I am in an industrious mood I do the Vactan thing. If not I smother the offending area in Fluid Film which does an excellent job of getting everywhere and never drying.
1985 1.9 DG Devon Moonraker with solid sided pop top
Michael4 wrote: I smother the offending area in Fluid Film which does an excellent job of getting everywhere and never drying.
I have never been a fan of this because when you finally get around to painting it the paint won't stick.
What would be good is vactan in a spray can so you can reach the parts a brush won't.
I doubt I will ever get round to painting it properly and I have invested in the ultimate rust delaying/preventative item, a garage door high enough to get the van into the dry.
1985 1.9 DG Devon Moonraker with solid sided pop top
I took a wire brush and a small hammer to the driver's side sill and surrounding area today. In some places, there are small holes showing through the metal panel. What should I best do to handle these?
I'm planing to paint with Owatrol oil/primer mix but handling holes to the panels or doing any fibre glass is not something I've done before.
What would you do?
And the hole in the still is actually quite large come to look at it again.
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1990 Autohomes Komet HiTop Camper
1.9 DG on Pierburg 2e3, 4 speed
For the underside, I do similar, wire brush, vactan then paint with stonechip black. Cavities, I use Dinitrol ML which is designed to neutralise and protect box areas where rust may already be present...feed it in the extra long hose and mist spray nozzle and let it do its thing.
Removed rust from Snorkel Box O/S underneath and inside van .
Then used Vactan, followed by two coats of Epoxy 421 Body Primer and finished off with liberally covering with Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax . All hand brushed.
Just hope I’ve done this ok, as some have put a top coat on prior to waxing .
I assume because Snorkel Box base , underneath, is so high a top coat isn’t necessary and what I have will be alright .
Chris
Cheers Dubworth, I'm going to get the whole underneath resealed by a local truck garage at some point but having started to look at it myself, I really want to get it on stands and spend the time preparing our properly. Taking all the loose stuff off then vactan or similar before letting the garage mega pressure wash it then seal it. They said they used a bitumen based product but I must check exactly what it is.
This is what it looks life after a few coats of primer/owatrol 50/50 mix.
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1990 Autohomes Komet HiTop Camper
1.9 DG on Pierburg 2e3, 4 speed
patrickpawsey wrote:They said they used a bitumen based product but I must check exactly what it is.
Personally I don't like bitumen because the rust eats away underneath and you can't see it until it's too late, I use paint and then you can inspect and see if the rust is coming back.
Garages love bitumen because it hides their shoddy work.
I’ve got this bus in for arches and tidying up, it passed its Mot last week, the mot station fitted new rear jacking points to pass it !
Then I started digging [FACE SCREAMING IN FEAR]
Then I thought I best take the cupboards and fridge out and have a look from inside
Depressing thing is it’s already had a side panel previously
All good fun [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND SMILING EYES]
