I will be doing mine this weekend. Do a google search and Dinitrol comes out better but I use Waxoyl and repeat the process every year (I may repeat under the arches during the winter if necessary). Some complain that waxoyl washes away too easily or it thinss out in hot weather, some point to the reviews by Practical Classics comparing Waxoyl and Dinitrol. Might be worth Googling a search of the results.
I use a compressor and the chassis rails and sills have lots of apertures that enable you to get into them using an extension probe. I don't use thinners but I do add a little engine oil to the mix and wear a FF3 spec safety mask. Once the chassis members and inner sills are done I spray the underside.
There are quite a few wax alternatives if you pop into a paint factors or body repair supplier but Waxoyl works for me. The Landy owners club have a good section on waxoyl and applying it effectively.
Last edited by AngeloEvs on 11 Jul 2017, 21:16, edited 1 time in total.
Google search and it seems that Dinitrol and the Bilt Hamber products both score highly over Waxoyl. I have ordered Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax (which contains rust convertor and excellent penetration properties) for the inner sills, chassis members, B/C pillars and doors. It comes in 0.7l spray cans with extension robe and, from what I have read, is very easy to use. Will let you know.
Arches and underbody I will spray using compressor and schultz can with gun. First coat will be Dinitrol 3125 and second, 24 hours later, with Dinitrol 4195 around the arches in particular.
5 ltrs of Waxoyl costs around £25-00 but the Dynitrol products and Bilt Hamber S50 totals around £100 so more expensive.
Always used Waxoyl in the past but may be its time to upgrade to better products.
itchyfeet wrote:Never used any of this stuff.
If you need to weld later is it a problem?
Yes and no, easy enough to clean up the area required for welding.
A few people have mentioned warming up the Dinitrol and Waxoyl, definitely recommended and easy enough to do just by placing the tin in the kitchen sink and filling with water from the kettle.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
The S50 is primarily a cavity wax, the UB provides a tougher wax coating. I suppose the idea is to use both but if your van is only used occasionally during the winter then may be the S50 is all you need. Will let you know how well the S50 spray cans work.
I've started using the Bilt Hamber S50 and UB in a few different places.
The S50 aerosol with lance is really good for getting into internal spaces and cavities, exactly as described. I haven't needed to warm the can any, it works fine as is. It's quite a liquid in consistency but dries to a good wax coating and you can layer it up with multiple passes if you feel it's necessary.
S50 in bottle brushes on nicely, maybe a little too liquid for some tastes but again it layers up well.
The UB seems to me just to be a slightly thicker version of the S50. It still applies a relatively thin coat compared to other similar products but you can build up and it's really easy to apply.
How effective are they beyond that? Give me a few years and we'll see.