Starter motor make and model number?

[normal rules]

I have a 1985 1.9 dg transporter petrol (autosleeper vt20). does anyone know what make and model the starter motor is. i plan to remove it and strip/clean and poss replace any parts that need it such as the brushes.

im hoping there is a sticker on it somewhere still telling me what it is.

any ideas?

[Oldiebut goodie]

May be one of these! You will have to search it for identification.

OE NUMBERS
BOSCH
0 001 210 213
0 001 212 211
0 001 212 212
0 001 212 214
0 001 212 402
0 001 212 403
1637
31 65141 14889 3
31 65141 79392 5
DELCO REMY
DRS 6370
HC-PARTS
CS 531
HELLA
8EA 726 171-001
LUCAS ELECTRICAL
LRS 1019
LRS01019
MAGNETI MARELLI
943251227
MSR 660
VALEO
455 619
455 630
VW
003 911 023 C
003 911 023 CX
003 911 023 D
003 911 023 DX
003 911 023 E
003 911 023 EX
BCR 911 023 A

[CovKid]

Brushes easy enough - just measure them when they come out and you should have no prob finding a set on ebay. You'll need a whopper of a soldering iron though!

Incidentally, Maplins do a huge 100watt iron for £15. Noticed it yesterday. Not sure how it'll compare to my gas one but it was a big iron.

[Oldiebut goodie]

I have a 150w one which still isn't man enough for some things. You are as well off making your own from some copper pipe for big jobs - you just hammer it over and over onto a metal rod until you have a great lump of copper that you can heat on a gas cooker. ( I learnt to solder on these basic soldering irons, one must have been around 12 ounces of copper cast on the end with a wooden handle.) You can transfer a fair amount of heat with one of these and they are handy for jobs where you have no power supply but have a gas cooker. I always carry a piece of copper pipe in my boat for soldering jobs. One advantage is that you can solder wiring with power to them as there is no electrical connection made to ground. so long as you have a decent handle. Really only 12v though so don't use it on 230v!

[normal rules]

Got it off and it's one of these. Having a prob splitting case after finally getting two long screws removed

[jpennington]

Splitting case
I just used a small hammer and chisel. Started on the brush cover first, just carefully tapping all the way round the join. After a couple of minutes it began to move.
Then splitting the join at the bendix end was similar, but slightly easier.

jp

[normal rules]

Did you leave the Philips screws in place that hold the brush mount in place?

[normal rules]

And how do you get the bearing off the other end?

[normal rules]

This one

[normal rules]

Looks like there is a mini circlip in it. Crap, don't have a tool for this.

[normal rules]

Brushes in surprisingly good nick.

[normal rules]

Advice re hammer and chisel was spot on. Found out that the small bearing did not have to come off. Accidentally let the shaft slip of the solenoid actuator arm which is tricky to get back on. Putting back together was interesting but I have learned a great deal from it. I can read books all day long but until you see the insides of something, and put it back together then and only then does it make sense.

[normal rules]

Flywheel housing bush replacement tomorrow and refit. Nervous.

[CovKid]

I'm sure it'll be fine. Too many people trade in starters when the fault is relatively minor or just needs a good clean. The only time you can really struggle is with a severely corroded case or mullered solenoid screws. I always rebuild my own - its not that hard and if you take care during reassembly and paint everything, it should stay in good nick.