Overheating - radiator problem ? (PB Engine in T3)

[Stefvan]

Hi
my new van seems to be running hot, at top speed the needle stays a needles width above the red light. I haven't flushed anything yet but the coolant level is good, and I have undone the bleed bolt on top of the radiator (engine running, heater switches on) and just coolant comes out. However if I put my hand on the radiator the left side doen't feel that hot but the right side I can hardly touch. Also if I put the cab heater switches all the way to the right, when the van is driving, the temperature dips to a more normal level. Its as if the radiator is blocked, or not working properly.. anything I can try ?

Stefvan

[kevtherev]

The pic is the wrong way round but you'll get the idea

It takes a long time to open the thermostat.
My needle sits just above the light
opening the heater valve dumps a load of cool coolant into the thermostat housing where the temp sender is, leave it on long enough and the needle will return to it's original position.
If the fans come on and it does not climb into the red then it's working OK

[Stefvan]

Thanks Kev, I have to double check why but the fan has only come on once a couple of weeks ago when sitting in traffic- so I know it works, just hasn't been coming on recently.
Is the picture saying that what I'm experiencing is normal for the rad to be considerably cooler on the left ?
Where else should I be looking for this overheating ?

Tia
Stefvan

[Stefvan]

Also Kev, the heater has a permanent and significant effect on the temperature, even though my blower doesn't work...

Stefvan

[MidLifeCrisis]

Very useful pic!!
So oriented as if you are standing in front of van, looking at radiator - it would be like this;

So I assume you'd expect bottom left to be hottest, then bottom right, then top right, then top left as you look at it. Are you saying that the 'flat area' of the radiator on the left is cold or are you grabbing the left 'side' of the radiator as that might be cool as the returning coolant flows through it (as seen in the pic)?

Also Kev, the heater has a permanent and significant effect on the temperature, even though my blower doesn't work...

As long as you have some of your vents open then there will still be outside air flowing over the heater and acting like a second radiator so you'd expect an initial drop in the temp but that should then rise back up again as the thermostat compensates by reducing flow to the radiator until the coolant heats up again.
If it creates a permanent difference in the temperature then might that suggest that the radiator isn't quite able to cool the coolant enough (and the heater is helping out) ........ maybe?!?

[Oldiebut goodie]

I still can't see where overheating is coming into this. What do you mean by "overheating"? You don't seem to have measured any temps and all that you say is that the gauge needle sits a little past the led.
You seem to have people chasing around your 'problem' but you haven't said what the problem is really!

[Stefvan]

Yes the needle is sitting high, and goes higher at top speed and accompanies another problem - low oil pressure - but I've been told, sort out the running hot before the low oil pressure. I have a digital thermometer with my multimeter but unsure when and where to actually measure ?

Stefvan

[marlinowner]

You can't read too much into the needle position, particularly as you are using a different engine to that the instruments were designed for. If I fit my old set of instruments, from a DG van, into my Audi engined van then the temp gauge sits well past the middle. With the van's own gauges it's right in the middle.

[Oldiebut goodie]

What do you mean 'the needle is sitting high' ? Mine sits at 2/3rds of the gauge but it isn't overheating. Why do you say that yours is overheating - what do you mean exactly? As an engine is worked harder more heat is generated so you expect a higher reading at higher speed.
I still cannot see where overheating is occurring.

[kevtherev]

Very useful pic!!
So oriented as if you are standing in front of van, looking at radiator - it would be like this;

So I assume you'd expect bottom left to be hottest, then bottom right, then top right, then top left as you look at it. Are you saying that the 'flat area' of the radiator on the left is cold or are you grabbing the left 'side' of the radiator as that might be cool as the returning coolant flows through it (as seen in the pic)?

Nicely orientated that man!
Our radiators do not conform to regular rads, it also shows that the bottom grille is the first cooler of the coolant.
As for the OP your cooling system is reacting as expected.
It reacts as mine does.
As for oil pressure that is also normal, as oil pressure drops as the coolant temp rises.
Use 20w50 mineral to compensate this

[Oldiebut goodie]

I was beginning to think that I was the only one that couldn't see any overheating!

[Stefvan]

Hi chaps, apologies if it seems I am asking dumb questions, I always appreciate the help and advice I am given here. I am just going on 9 years of daily driving diesel T3's where the needle rarely moved. This is a new van and engine to me. It feels hot (can feel the heat in the cab) and the needle is a lot higher than what is normal for me. If I could take a meaningful temperature reading for you I would need to know where to take it from.

Stefvan

[lloydy]

are you using the gauge sender from the original T3 engine or from the PB?

[kevtherev]

It feels hot (can feel the heat in the cab)

Turn off the heater.

If the fan comes on .. it's working as expected.
You can't interchange temperature senders between engines

What temp is the thermostat?
is it T3 temps?

[Oldiebut goodie]

(Mine shows 2/3rds as I have to find a suitably rated sender to fit the flange on my 1Y but I know that it isn't overheating)