Crank or ?? oil leak

[tommin]

Sorry for confusing heading but not sure what to call it?

I decided to search the oil leak that has steadily got worse, thought initially it was the crank seal but when i opened up the area noticed more oil staining around the timing belt middle wheel???? which would have leaked down over the crankcase wheel. See pic with the single arrow going to it. If it is this, how easy to replace.

I also though it may be these three arrowed bolts around the crank cog, which seemed a little loose? I was able to tighten them up some, but not sure if that was the right thing to do not knowing their torque?

Any thoughts out there.

[colinthefox]

Your analysis looks about right.

Once you've got that far the intermediate shaft oil seal is easy to replace, so you might as well do it anyway. Just undo the two bolts and take the holder off, knock out the old seal and carefully press a new one in with a block of wood. It's got a drain hole inside, so make sure the drain hole is at the bottom when you replace it.

Just tighten the lower bolts with a normal small spanner. Using one handed torque. My torque wrench won't set that low, so I don't bother with it.
If the crank oil seal ain't leaking, best to leave it, because that crank nut is veeeery tight, and not that easy.

Good luck.

[tommin]

Well that was of the easiest jobs to do on this old girl, thanks CtF, hopefully that was the culprit. Just waiting on the pump timing gauge to come before reassembling the rest, then we will see.

[tommin]

Okay well typical me, impatient as always, gauge did not arrive this post? so went ahead and reassembled, then primed pump and started her up, well after many minutes and a booster to help, it fired up

When running all was okay for first ten minutes or so, plenty of bluey smoke, some which i expected after such work being done, but the smoke still keeps on coming even though engine sounds fine?

Then on a stop start, engine really struggled to start? Could all this (blue smoke, hard start, some slight overrun on revs) be down to the pump timing? Where is that darn pump gauge? Ideas anyone!!

[colinthefox]

If you haven't done anything else to the engine, and it was OK before, then its a fair bet that it's something to do with replacing the cam belt. If you haven't loosened the cam or pump sprocket yet, then the only change you could have made is to put the cam belt back on one tooth out, either on the pump, or cam, or crank, in which case, both the cam and pump will be one tooth out.

So it would be best to check this before loosening either the pump or cam sprocket. Once it is running like it was before, then you can check the pump lift, and put some tippex marks on all the sprockets and the engine, so it won't happen again.

These cam belts are made to such fine tolerances that it's unlikely changing the belt would make any noticeable difference to the timing, if it was all done correctly.

The quick way to check the pump timing with the belt off is to rotate the pump by hand with all the injector unions loose until fuel squirts out. If you then tighten number one injector union the pump should stop dead at a few degrees before TDC on No. 1.

Presumably you already know that the slot in the back of the cam indicates that the cam is at TDC No1, and that the TDC mark on the clutch is seen through the hole in the bellhousing.

When refitting the belt, I alwys use spring clothes pegs to hold the belt on the two large sprockets so that it doesn't shift a tooth when fitting. Easy mistake to make.

[tommin]

Thanks for the input, I locked up everything as per book, marked all sprockets with white, engine at TDC etc... but will recheck everything a third time just be sure.

[tommin]

The timing gauge arrived today and i was full of high expectations, but alas it was short lived. As per instructions set up the cam, pump and tdc, fitted device rotated engine backwards until dial stopped, reset to zero and brought engine back round to tdc. As per these instructions the timing was way off, so undid the pump nuts rotated till i achieved 10 (1) whatever those readings were, closed all up and tried to start uh uh, the only way it would start was with the cold start fully open (+20 here today). But it started and run quite smoothly but still some light hay blue from the rear.

The problem then started, when i disengaged the cold start, the engine cut out, retried again with cold start it started, and by feathering the throttle managed to shut off the cold start, but now the engine is lumpy and seems to be missing a beat every so often especially when high revved, and then those revs at times did not want to come down???????????? I had to engage gear and bring them down via the clutch?

What am i doing wrong, i have the feeling the timing is way to far retarded?? I dunno anymore, so giving up the ghost tonight, time for a sauna and a few beers to ease the pain.

[tommin]

Well redid everything from scratch,four times actually and all but two were different reading? I went with one of the two that were nearest each other, the engine kicked into life but nothing like it should be, idles well little or no smoke, but when throttling then the smoke haze starts, and the revs seem to hang forever? I am first to admit i am baffled and so jarred off am ready to ditch the old girl to the corner of the field!
I know it is a pump issue (or me) as this really only went belly up after replacing the distributor oil seal, so am pretty sure something shifted within the pump?

I think either rebuild the pump or exchange is the order of the day, so which type of pumps will fit the jx 1.6td engine, this is my light at the end of the tunnel, help advice or other gracefully accepted.

[Jakemate]

Did you use the feeler gauges under the cam locking plate? It's really critical that it's spot on.
Was the engine at td5 as you say as on some there are two marks one is td5 the other a few degrees before tdc.
On the dial gauge you should set the pump so that the lift is 1 mm, that one full revolution of the dial, each small segment is 0.01mm, so from 0 to 10 on the gauge is 0.1mm one full revolution 1 mm.

I hope this helps

[Oldiebut goodie]

No - my dial gauge is imperial!!!! (Came from the States of USA)

[tommin]

OBG what the heck you smokin dude

Jm, Cam locked, tdc obtained on ip and locked, v notch on flywheel/clutch plate like i said all as per book.
Ip timing dial set for 1mm (small dial), yes understand the dial increments, as per book.

Still having problems even after doing all again for the i think 5th or 6th time????????????????

The good news is, I managed to source a replacement pump off same model vehicle, one year older but with less km on the clock. He is not only selling me the one pump but two pumps, engine, turbo etc... all for 100euro

He told us, he bought the second pump because he thought his engine burning oil was caused by a faulty pump, so he replaced it but found the issue was still the same so not a pump fault, bad news him good news me. Am off fishing end of next week up north and will pick it up on way home, so will update with pics and whatever later.

Hi ho hi ho off fishing i must go, la da li la di la hi ho hi ho hi ho