Clock AND temp gauge not working. Known working panel

[lozhedgehog]

So sorry, I know the temp gauge thing has been covered before but I have a faulty clock too!

Fuel gauge works
Temp gauge doesn't move from cold
Water level light flashes as normal 5secs or so. Doesn't stay on when connection removed from header tank.
Clock also doesn't work.
All fuses seem fine.
My head hurts!

This was on original instrument pod and I've just put in pod we know worked (ours from Lucy the one with the engine fire) and still the same.

Any help?

Cheers

[lozhedgehog]

Having trawled forums one of the things It seems should be checked it the No43 level control switch in the fuse box. There isn't one in mine!

[lozhedgehog]

As Kevtherev said in another post I shorted out temp sender to earth and with ignition on the temp gauge moved all the way to the right.
With 12v at ignition, level sender and temp sender & a good earth I guess there should be a No43 switch in the empty space!?!
Am I right?


http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt34 ... socket.jpg

[MidLifeCrisis]

As Kevtherev said in another post I shorted out temp sender to earth and with ignition on the temp gauge moved all the way to the right.

OK - so your Temp Gauge does work! - it may just be that your temp sender is not working or the wiring to the temp sender is not good.

With 12v at ignition, level sender and temp sender & a good earth I guess there should be a No43 switch in the empty space!?!
Am I right?

Yep - you should have the 43Relay in that slot - but that would not stop the Temp Gauge working - the temp gauge would still show coolant temperature but it would not show the warning for 'low coolant level' (The Relay is what causes the 'low coolant level' warning). So without a relay the temp gauge should still show coolant temp (as you have seen when the gauge moved when you shorted the 'temp sender' wire to ground).

Also - the Clock is driven by it's own permanent 12v supply that is provided to the gauge cluster on that long white connector at the back - I would check that this 12v is on that connector .... its also possible that the clock is just plain broken ...... or possibly that the ground for the clock is broken ..... some investigation needed!!

[lozhedgehog]

Cheers for that, I will continue my investigations.

One other thing, long story as to why, but is it possible carefully to exchange just just the PCB on the back of the instrument panel, basically so I can keep the original panel I have and thus keep the mileage correct?

[ghost123uk]

Yes you could, but as you say, you need to be careful with it though. Note though that it's quite easy to alter the mileage on these clocks, bit fiddly and you need to be careful and take your time, but it's not really hard. If going into the speedo, be really careful of the very fine coiled hair spring behind the needle, it is very easily damaged (ask me how I know )

Also, note that "relay 43" (or 42 = same thing, interchangeable) is not actually a relay but is a quite complex little circuit inside.

[lozhedgehog]

I'll give it a shot tonight then (swapping PCB)

Steady hands at the ready.

[lozhedgehog]

Thanks for your help Mr M.L.C and Mr Ghost.

So, I swapped the PCB over (incl clock/temp/fuel unit) and tested it with a jump at the relay panel.
Put in a 43 relay. Then tested at the rear by shorting the sender which moved the temp gauge.
Tested another sender and that worked so installed in the van.

I now have a working temp gauge. Clock still not going but it'll do for now! Do me good to care less about time any case

One thing I did struggle with was getting to the sender, which originally I thought was the one that pointed to the N/S of the van, of course it's not it's the one that faces the front.

Thanks again guys

[MidLifeCrisis]

So, I swapped the PCB over (incl clock/temp/fuel unit) and tested it with a jump at the relay panel.
Put in a 43 relay. Then tested at the rear by shorting the sender which moved the temp gauge.
Tested another sender and that worked so installed in the van.

Now you've got the relay in there - have you tested the coolant level warning?
On top of the coolant header tank you should see a connector - yank that connector off the 'level sensor' and the LED in the coolant temp gauge should start flashing (it can take a few seconds so be patient).
(obviously this is with the ignition on)
Glad you've got it sorted!!!

[lozhedgehog]

Yeh thanks, I tested that too and it's working as it should.....

Next job now!