Alternative to rubber mats for cab steps

[thecyrusvirus]

Whilst waiting for my new angle grinder to turn up I have been looking at alternatives for the rubber mats on the cab door step.

I don't want holes in the new steps to fit the OEM mats so... I was thinking about using something like the non-slip flowcoat that we are using on our boat deck. It is tough and UV stable but I am not sure how well it will go over the rustoleum paint that the wagon is painted with.

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p ... -9005.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Has anyone got experience of using styrene based products over rustoleum? I know it shouldn't be used over cellulose as the styrene in the resin breaks down and wrinkles the cellulose.

Here is a link to the msds for the rustoleum, hopefully someone with more chemistry knowledge than me can advise?

http://www.rawlinspaints.co.uk/pdf/combicolour_msds.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or perhaps there is a better solution that can be applied neatly without holes OR maybe I am just being mad by trying to avoid using the OEM mats...opinions welcome!

[ghost123uk]

I stand to be corrected here, but I think the cab steps may need the holes for drainage. Our (recently sold) Hi-Top had solid step plates and when it rained the used to get a puddle of water in them. Our Ti-Top has the holes and doesn't do this. As I say, I could be wrong though but worth checking.

[thecyrusvirus]

From looking at the restoration posts that mm puts up I was hoping I could put a slight fall on the new step to direct any water outside.

Do you think that could work?

[ghost123uk]

Oooo, I'm no expert in this field. Hopefully MM will notice this thread and comment

[thecyrusvirus]

More of an expert than me...I have owned my T25 for a grand total of 7 days!

Thanks for taking the time to reply, like I said, any help is greatly appreciated

[shepster]

Why not just cut the lugs off the bottom of standard step mats and silicon them on, unless you fancy something different of course.

[thecyrusvirus]

I just figured they will trap moisture under the mats and slowly start the rot process all over again plus I have about 5 litres of non-slip flowcoat leftover from working on the boat. The existing mats are beyond saving so just trying to penny pinch where I can as I have lots of panels to buy

[Woodyyellow]

Whilst we wait for the guru himself to reply, this link is taken from his Mallyvagon thread,
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... &start=195" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Half way down he uses something (?) to paint the step. I'm sure mm will be along soon to explain all.

[discipleofsketch]

I've been wondering about this too, but will be drilling holes regardless as I usually have my van parked at the side of the road on a camber, so even with a slope on the step it will pool water on one side, the step would have to be at a steep angle to drain water out the side.

But thanks for this thread - I didn't realise the mats had lugs underneath, as i've never owned any

[BOXY]

I cut the lugs off & silicon'd my mats in place a couple of years ago because my van had had new steps welded in without holes. After 12 months the rust started staining the paint around the steps so I pull the mats off & binned them. My steps have now just got a coat of rustoleum and stone chip paint.

[thecyrusvirus]

HI Boxy

Is the step slippery when wet?

Cheers
Cyrus

[itchyfeet]

Some bodger welder fitted a plate over the whole step when I asked for a small hole to be patched
Never had any puddles but it looks awful and the door has never shut properly since

If only every town had a meal micky

[thecyrusvirus]

Itchyfeet it seems there are many more bodger welders than good ones. I guess the extra height of the step fouls on the door bottom?

I will have to check that as we rebuild the steps as I don't want to end up with a nicely welded step but a door that wont close

[itchyfeet]

Itchyfeet it seems there are many more bodger welders than good ones. I guess the extra height of the step fouls on the door bottom?

I will have to check that as we rebuild the steps as I don't want to end up with a nicely welded step but a door that wont close

The bodger welded the plate so it sticks out and hits the door seal
I have ground it back but it really needs removing but how I don't know how

It still does not shut properly so you may be right about the extra height

[thecyrusvirus]

Before we let loose with the welder I am going to read every single resto thread on here to try and avoid making bodges...however, I am sure we will still make a few.

Thanks for all the input guys