Syncro fuel sender - replacement

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Yozza
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Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by Yozza »

My petrol fuel sender is open circuit, probably to do with being stationary with no fuel for years :shock:

I found a link on the samba for rewinding the coild, but you can get a replacement for 55 green queens.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have any of you good folk done this repair/replacement? Apart from emptying the fuel tank, any useful pointers before I don the blue marigolds?

Anyone needed to use gunk in addition to new round rubber gaskets to seal?

Cheerz
T25 '90 2.1i 16" Doka
JCB 3C MkII
Thwaites 6000

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..lee..
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Re: Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by ..lee.. »

May not be the case with yours but in my experience the outer pipes are corroded sufficiently to warrant buying a complete unit. Baxter does them.

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Yozza
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Re: Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by Yozza »

Sounds like a top tip, I'll have a gander at the pipes. cheers Lee
:ok
T25 '90 2.1i 16" Doka
JCB 3C MkII
Thwaites 6000

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hotpod
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Re: Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by hotpod »

Ive done 3 over the past few years, but Ive always bought a whole new unit and new seals and backing plate. then hopefully it is fit and forget.
saying that, there were a dodgy batch of seals a few years ago which dissolved in petrol believe it or not which meant i put the old seals back on and used stuff called stag wellseal for added peace of mind.
the replacement backing plates aren't as rigid as the originals but fine if you don't over-tighten them.
as far as getting the old nuts off goes, my most successful method was turning them clockwise and shearing the old studs.
1992 T3 LHD Syncro 16" 4 door doka 1.9na diesel
1990 T3 LHD Syncro 16" Westfalia Joker high top 1.9 TDI
1985 T3 LHD Westfalia Joker high top 1.9 Digijet
1980 T3 LHD factory high top 2.0 Aircooled

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Yozza
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Re: Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by Yozza »

hotpod wrote:Ive done 3 over the past few years, but Ive always bought a whole new unit and new seals and backing plate. then hopefully it is fit and forget.
saying that, there were a dodgy batch of seals a few years ago which dissolved in petrol believe it or not which meant i put the old seals back on and used stuff called stag wellseal for added peace of mind.
the replacement backing plates aren't as rigid as the originals but fine if you don't over-tighten them.
as far as getting the old nuts off goes, my most successful method was turning them clockwise and shearing the old studs.

Top tips there :ok

Did you use the OEM sender or the cheaper repro out of curriosity?

Cheerz
T25 '90 2.1i 16" Doka
JCB 3C MkII
Thwaites 6000

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hotpod
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Re: Syncro fuel sender - replacement

Post by hotpod »

I bought the OEM ones. I always try to buy the original parts, buy bosh electrical stuff etc . For peace of mind as much as anything else.
there's a lot of crap out there, and if you buy cheap and it isn't any good you will end up buying the OEM part eventually anyway, have paid out more and done the work twice.
That's just my opinion, but based on 23 years of fixing my own vws.
1992 T3 LHD Syncro 16" 4 door doka 1.9na diesel
1990 T3 LHD Syncro 16" Westfalia Joker high top 1.9 TDI
1985 T3 LHD Westfalia Joker high top 1.9 Digijet
1980 T3 LHD factory high top 2.0 Aircooled

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