16" brake refurb thread **with a question**

[jes*b]

Group buy: I'll do the deed. Add your name to list by end of 24th May.
Patrick
Mark

Jes x 2 sets

[hotpod]

Hotpod x 1 set please.

[lloydy]

I reckon I should get some commission

[HarryMann]

Bedding in brakes...and general syncro brake tips (like lloydy asked years ago)

Bedding in brakes is a progressive process, building up heat and bedding the surfaces together step by stop and stop by step. With cooling phases in between, it can be done quickly if the procedure is followed.

However, don't expect top fade-free performance in an emergency if they've never been really hot before, so if you are just driving gently to bed them, start to use them for progressively higher energy slow downs.

This applies even more if the pads or shoes are in any way hard, sporty or heavy duty material.

It's also normal to check, de-dust and adjust the rear drum brakes after the first extensive drive from a rebuild e.g. after the first hour or two's drive sometimes sooner if they aren't pulling up evenly (all one can really ask for with 14" drums!)

It is also good practice to remove the drums, clean and check them after 'every' off-road event of any duration... else they will dissolve in short order, they are not mud, sand nor water-proof. Discs much more resilient of course.

NB. Check not overheating after a good run out (spit-sizzle test).
Subsequently:
After about 500 miles, pop the drums back off, knock them out, dust out with a vacuum or dry clean kitchen brush (dustpan and brush type). Lots of tapping on back plate and shoes to loosen dust. Inspect where shoes making contact, won't be much unless you're lucky, but will gradually bed-in and contact over most of surface.
Re-adjust up, should be less binding as bedding-in progress, making it easier to adjust up tighter

http://www.wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.ph ... _servicing

[HarryMann]

Do not leave the pipe touching the rear radius arm. If it does... water will well and stay there, I have had one blow when bleeding at the point it goes thro' plastic clip ... as have others

[hotpod]

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/eng/break/ ... ro-16.html

bernd has them cheaper...

[lloydy]

Good spot finding them cheaper. Clive those pics are around a year old, pipes now run nicely thanks to my last visit to b'werks

[HarryMann]

Yes, must check the dates and the figs out first... @@

Also presume your brakes have bedded-in now... I only post to remind myself what to put in the Wiki next.
Believe that if thoust wilt

[syncropatrick]

http://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/eng/break/ ... ro-16.html

bernd has them cheaper...

Cool. Cheaper is better.


Group buy: I'll do the deed. Add your name to list by end of 24th May.
1 x Patrick
1 x Mark
2 x Jes
1 x Hotpod

[PEET]

Lloyd are these the ones I have now?
Found out they're bit more awkward pipe routing wise to fit a 2wd gipsy...! Hehe

[lloydy]

Yes, they are the same ones. There is no difference between 2wd and syncro calipers though, they are all the same. As a thought, maybe the little bracket that bolts to the caliper is syncro specific?

[PEET]

The bracket throws the hose 2wd hoses straight into the front spring one full lock and the standard hoses arent long enough the other lock. Solution is a 90º adapter I hope!