Loss of power when changing gear...

[lloydy]

Just looking at all those fault codes at the top of page, fair few there! Did you clear the codes and see what ones popped up, or just plug in and read? Asking as some of those codes could be old... But, all or one of those codes can cause bad running. Have you done anything about the codes? I know for certain a bad MAF will make it run like Dog sh!t. If you have a dodgy brake or clutch switch it could limit revs. A bad MAP will put it in limp mode ect.
It sounds like you had a van that ran ok, then started playing up? So I wouldn't worry too much about incorrect parts fitted for now (as it was working ) its either a faulty part, or something has come apart. I'd reconnect vcds and reset faults, then see what fault reappears.

[KR1S 76]

Bought the van in S. Spain already with a conversion... But engine block on that one cracked so had to replace the engine. The engine did not have a code so it took a while to figure out which one it was, we never did, nor which one would fit.

So I got from a scrap yard a 1Z from a 96 golf and a mechanic installed it. Everything worked fine, driven miles on it.Drove it to UK and Been to the S. Spain and back twice on it and used it as my daily car and drove well for 3 years.

This engine was not as powerful as the previous one. I gathered later that it could have been an AFN from a passat. Later looking at the papers from the previous owner it had these letters written down on a piece of paper. So it might as well could have been that 1.

I guess that everything else but the engine is from a passat.

Been googling and read a few things... but I cannot be sure.
Could it be the EGR valve?
or some sort of throttle problem?

What do you think of the diagram setup, does it look right to you?

Thanks...

[KR1S 76]

L... Thanks, I cannot clear the fault as I don't have the equipment. Would be a good idea to plug it in again but the last time a mechanic and an auto electrician did, didn't help.

Last time I took it to the mechanics I spent a fortune on it, they gave up and couldn't clear the faults neither did they fix the problem.
And I took it to what's meant to be a good VW specialist garage.

Since then I have not done much to it.

[KR1S 76]

Don't think throttle pedal is electric..

[lloydy]

Have you changed any of the parts that the fault codes mentioned? I'd start there personally?
You can buy a lead from eBay for £5 it has the vcds software built into it. You just need a laptop and a OBD2 port. People are just guessing otherwise.

[jes*b]

Hi, which independent VW garage did you take the vehicle to ? In the east Kent area?

[KR1S 76]

why ask...

[jes*b]

Wondering if you'd been to see john @ Kent Volkswagen - in margate. Very good and experienced with a wide variety of VW's

[ewenmaclean]

Hello,

first off - Lloyd is right to ask about clutch and brake switches - what have you done with these wires? If you don't earth the clutch switch and deal with brake pedal switch somehow (Earth it for example if only temporarily) then the van will think you have your foot on the brake or clutch and not let you freely rev.

The diagram is very confusing and not right. For a start the valve you mention isn't a vacuum solenoid valve - it is an N75 valve for a wastegate turbo and regulates pressure. The ECU number you mention does seem to have an inbuilt map sensor - can you take a picture of the ECU for us to confirm that? You need a pressure source somewhere near the inlet manifold - this goes to the MAP sensor. Then the N75 takes an atmospheric pressure connection (usually from the air filter box for example) - a turbo pressure feed and then the output goes to the wastegate actuator - like this:



Is it possible to make that diagram any clearer by adding in any electrical connections you have?

Also - if you can read the fault codes that would be very helpful -

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

here r some pics of the ecu...



photo showing MAP and N75

[max and caddy]

Similar to this one...

What ever you do, don't connect that to the boost circuit with a pipe! It's the atmospheric pressure sensor and lives in the car on a golf etc...if you ram a bar of boost up the conection the ecu will think your at the center of the earth!

[ewenmaclean]

What ever you do, don't connect that to the boost circuit with a pipe! It's the atmospheric pressure sensor and lives in the car on a golf etc...if you ram a bar of boost up the conection the ecu will think your at the center of the earth!

- is there an error code that says that?

I suspect the t you have at the ecu goes to a boost gauge in the front somewhere - don't leave it disconnected. The red pipe on the inlet manifold elbow should probably go between the n75 pressue source input and the compressor housing. The tube to the ecu should go from the inlet manifold. Connect the n75 up as it is in the picture I linked to.

Don't just go hooking stuff together that fits without understanding it. Someone did that on a tdi conversion and linked a leak-off pipe to a vacuum source and blew up two engines - that's unfortunately not a joke Sorry if that sounds harsh but on this and other threads you've asked similar questions - I and others have tried to help out quite a bit already.

[KR1S 76]

thanks...
So... if I have a tube hanging loose from the boost circuit connected to the little outlet, should i leave it like that?

On the N75 valve there are 3 outlets:
1. one at the top connected to the ecu
2. the other at the top connected to the tube from the air filter to the turbo
3. there is another outlet at the bottom... and not connected to anything... should that go to the turbo then?

Yep was connected to a boost gauge but I removed it ages ago and left it as it is as I had no idea where it led to.
So if I remove the boost gauge should I remove the tube connected to the ecu or should I replace the boost gauge again?

I am going through this as i thought that the problem with the throttle could be licked to some sort of pressure issue. Could this be correct?
I am no expert in this field, but eager to learn. I would like to thank all of you that have helped, i really appreciate your support and feed back. I hope that I someday can help others here.

thanks

[lloydy]

If you have removed the boost gauge did you cap off the hose connected to it? If not you will have a boost leak

[HarryMann]

It does sound like Ewen has identified that possibility. If you securely block that T'eed pressure feed for now, re-test then report back...