Which engine and Carb you have - Solex to Pierburg swap

[itchyfeet]

When are you firing it up?

Fingers crossed for you that the carb is a good one.

[Smiffo]

Oh probably tomorrow now.
I still have to get the tank back in..!!

I posted a question ref painting/sealing the old one yesterday, but as I was in GSF utilising the discount code, I just bought a new one..!!

( Only had a short time before the shop closed and needed to make a decision )

And yes the carb has crossed my mind too.
It's been sat in a spare bedroom for months, so shouldn't have any `new` contaminants in it, but I have no idea how it performed on the last owners van.

I'm going to sit in the front room tonight, follow the WIKI ref breather hoses on fuel tanks and get it all ready for tomorrow.

Once that's done tonight, it is just a matter of re-installing the tank, chucking some coolant in, and taking a bit of a drive..!!

[itchyfeet]

About time you joined isn't it?
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/membershipform.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Smiffo]

All done and submitted.

I really am trying not to do the brake and clutch lines now the tank is already off...
Keep telling myself to just get it running again, but that little voice in my head keeps whispering `do it now Smiffo, do it now....`

[itchyfeet]

Draw a line.

[Smiffo]

Thought you would say that

I think I am going to follow your advice on that - it's been spot on so far..!!

[itchyfeet]

Had my van 9 years still not got around to dropping the tank or replacing brake lines, each year something else gets done, you can't do it all at once.

[Smiffo]

It started..!!

Took a few drops of fuel into the carb to get the fuel moving up the lines from the tank, but it ran..!!

I am concerned though...
When I did that, I could see into the top of the carb, and I think that there is something missing.

Look at this pic of one from elsewhere on this site...



It is a pic of an LT carb, posted by CJH, but there is a flap in one of the necks of the carb - I'm guessing it's to do with the choke?

Here is a picture of mine...



I'm kind of hoping I can make do at the moment - it does start - but wanted some input from the wizards

I cant drive it yet anyway - still waiting for that darned bleeder rail after I snapped my old one
Apart from that, tank is in with new fuel and breather lines, carb is installed, and the new steel coolant pipes are all in too.

[CJH]

Yes, you're missing the choke flap. It'll affect cold starting, but once up to temperature the flap would be vertical anyway, so it's the same as not having one. But that flap restricts airflow during cold starting, so you'll find your van very difficult to keep running from cold. I don't know if that part is available separately - your best hope is probably to get a 'parts' 2E3 and scavenge it for that part.

Just a thought - I wonder if the flap was removed because of a broken plastic link. I think without the link the flap would be uncontroled, making for very poor running once warmed up.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=147770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[itchyfeet]

your carb s missing it's choke flap
who sold you that?

[Smiffo]

Just a thought - I wonder if the flap was removed because of a broken plastic link. I think without the link the flap would be uncontroled, making for very poor running once warmed up.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=147770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks CJH. I might have a butchers now and go and see if there is anything obvious as to why it was removed.
I have read some of that thread - been following it out of interest.

your carb s missing it's choke flap
who sold you that?

Oh, some `random` from the wanted section

I might try and source another carb and get it refurbished before fitting it.
A tad expensive, but a lesson learned here I think.

[CJH]

I might have a butchers now and go and see if there is anything obvious as to why it was removed.

You can probably tell without dismantling the carb (which isn't difficult but runs the risk of tearing the gasket). If the choke flap spindle rotates freely then the link may be broken or missing. If the link is there and working, you'll feel the choke spring resisting the rotation of that spindle. If you can't tell, then separate the choke heater from the right hand side of the carb (three screws to remove the part that has the water pipes attached), and then operate the rotary lever (in the photo below) by hand and see if the spindle turns.

[Smiffo]

Ok.

Had a little peek, and not familiar with with Carbs at all, so here are some pics:



The bit in the pic above turns freely, and is on a spring action, so I can rotate it easy and it springs back to it's original position.

The other bit in the pic below ( where the flap should attach ) does turn in it's position, however there seems to be no spring action to push it back.
I am not sure if there should be, but it is also rather stiff and doesn't turn smoothly.



I am assuming one or both of the above symptoms is why the flap was removed?

[CJH]

Could be. The first symptom is normal. But if the choke flap wasn't connected to the choke mechanism via that small plastic link then the mixture would have been all over the place, and maybe removing the flap was a quick fix at the expense of cold starting.

The stiff movement can probably be fixed by removing the spindle and cleaning off the corrosion. The only way to tell for sure if that plastic link is there and in one piece is to remove the carb top plate (the four cross head screws - two inside the circular rubber gasket, two outside). But you might just be able to tell if the plug/bung at the right hand end of the choke spindle has been removed. You'll be able to see if it's there, but you won't be able to tell if it's in one piece.



If the bung's still there, then a) good, b) you'll have to remove the top plate and have a peer in from below.

Incidentally, anyone know where to get a new bung?

[Smiffo]

Yeh, bung is still there....



When we say `poor running` without the choke, I assume it will still work but may stall?

Also, When I started it earlier ( started fine ) the revs were quite high as per normal choke operation, until I blipped the throttle.
I couldn't run for anymore than 20 seconds or so, as haven't got the coolant back in yet, however is there a secondary choke function too?

I ask because it ran like it had a choke on, or at least the revs were high initially.
Presumably - in my mind - this choke flap works in conjunction with another aspect of the carb that performs some sort of choke function too?

Maybe there is another reason why the revs ran high initially?

I will stop spamming questions at you all now, and see what comes back