Radiator fan motor

[AdrianC]

Been a while since I fitted the chicken switch but I'll take a gander next week to remind myself how I wired it.

Just needs to be in parallel with the rad switch. Take the +12v to the switch, and take the switch output to the low-speed wire. If you get a three-position switch (off-on1-on2 or on1-off-on2), you can do the other to the high-speed for ultimate paranoia.

Is this what you mean ??

Who's going to get the bulk order list together?

[California Dreamin]

Trouble is a 'Chicken Switch' still has to be turned on! .... that would require prior warning (temp gauge getting high etc).

If you are observant enough to see that the needle is going high (one would hope warning lights would flash) then you can stop, whip off the lower grille and bridge the plug contacts (5 minute job)...much like a 'chicken switch' but without the drilling and potential for the additional switch and associated wiring, that you have fitted, 'also' developing a fault.

Probably much easier just carrying around a 'spare' thermo-switch
Martin

[CovKid]

Think I'd rather have a dash switch than halt the traffic while I hunt for the screwdriver and mess with grill screws. Thats why I fitted the switch in the first place. Some see a switch us unecessary. True, in an ideal world. However, a little insurance suits me. I have rarely used it (mostly in exceptionally hot weather), but its there if needed. A chicken swicth is NOT a subsitute for a thermo switch ever, but in combination its fine.

[California Dreamin]

I agree with the messing around in traffic thing... although I would point out that the additional wiring & connections could create their own problems and faults especially if not done well.

Martin

[CovKid]

I think that goes for most things. However, when a thermoswitch dies or goes faulty its always when you need it most. I've never known one go when the vehicle is sat there parked. In my view the switch is there just as a backup to get me out of a whole load of trouble in an emergency. If the fan dies, you've had it anyway but they tend to go on forever. I do wonder just how accurate those temperature guages are though.

[AdrianC]

I think that goes for most things. However, when a thermoswitch dies or goes faulty its always when you need it most. I've never known one go when the vehicle is sat there parked.

Or is it that that's just when you notice it?

[Ralf85]

If your fan motor is actually knackered you could do what I have done. Replace it with a Kenlowe fan. They are not cheap, but work really well and are virtually silent. My garage has installed these fans on classic vehicles for years and recommend them on old motors.
You remove the whole shroud along with the old fan and discard them. The correct Kenlowe option is a much bigger multi bladed carbon fibre fan compared with the old three blade propeller style original. It is fiddly to install so I got my trusted garage to install it.
So if you decide to get one call Kenlowe. They are really helpful and will advise you which one is best for our vans.
Click on the Archive button above and type in 'Rad fan - replaced' to see the discussion we had on here. Let's hope you don't need a replacement.

[AdrianC]

My garage has installed these fans on classic vehicles for years and recommend them on old motors.

As replacements for OEM electric fans, or as replacements for mechanically-driven fans? There is a definite benefit in the latter, even with viscous hubs.

[freckvan1]

Thanks Adrian , California and CovKid , managed to test Radiator Fan plug lead today ,
yippee Fan comes on ok , both settings ! Didn't switch ignition on .

You're right Adrian sounded like a Hovercraft ! What a relief I tell you , b::::y marvellous .

Now I need to check the Thermoswitch , although I will probably follow California's suggestion
and buy a Whaler from Brickwerks , it is 31 years old so maybe .....

This has all started from tracing Coolant leaks (eliminated all bar one ) engine running (idling) about
twenty minutes and Temp Gauge reading bang on twelve o clock as usual , Rad warmed up , but
no Fan . Combination of me now being a wrinkly and paranoia I suppose !

Anyway , thanks again for your help and time , hopefully some day I can buy you a pint .

Atb,
Chris

[freckvan1]

Ralph 85 ,

Sorry mate forgot to include you in above .

The Kenlowe sounds a good idea , however now I know my Fan is ok ,
I'm leaving it as is . To be honest I was dreading removing Fan shroud
as sides rusty as .....

Atb,
Chris

[AdrianC]

Thanks Adrian , California and CovKid , managed to test Radiator Fan plug lead today ,
yippee Fan comes on ok , both settings !

Good news!

Didn't switch ignition on .

Yep, you want the fan to work even when the ignition's off. Then, when you restart after buying petrol or whatever, the heat-soaked really HOT coolant in the engine comes through to a rad that's cooled down a bit, and is replaced with water that's gone off the boil...

You're right Adrian sounded like a Hovercraft !

<grin>

Now I need to check the Thermoswitch , although I will probably follow California's suggestion
and buy a Whaler from Brickwerks , it is 31 years old so maybe .....

For the cost, you might as well.

This has all started from tracing Coolant leaks (eliminated all bar one ) engine running (idling) about
twenty minutes and Temp Gauge reading bang on twelve o clock as usual , Rad warmed up , but
no Fan . Combination of me now being a wrinkly and paranoia I suppose !

In these ambient temps, no great surprise. Idling doesn't generate much heat, and the rad is being cooled much more effectively with an 80deg temp difference than it will be on a Med summer's day with a 50deg temp difference...

[CJH]

Thread resurrection. I'm being lazy and calling on the collective expertise of the forum, rather than going out in the dark to trace wires.

I've just been out to check what sort of thermoswitch I need - I want to get a new one for when the new rad goes in with the new engine. Mine's a 1983 van so I assumed I have a single speed fan (that's all I've ever heard) but I wanted to check before ordering.

It turns out I have a 3-pin plug (and thermoswitch) which I think means the fan should run at two speeds. The paperclip test between one end terminal (+12V) and the middle terminal makes the fan come on. Between the +12V terminal and the third terminal nothing happens though.

Any ideas as to what this means?

- Is a 1983 van likely to have a 2-speed fan?

- If yes, then what's failed to make it only work at one speed?

- If no, and someone has added the three pin plug to my loom, what does this mean in terms of operation? Am I missing the lower speed operation, or is it the lower speed that's working and I'm missing the higher speed? What happens if the temperature rises to the switch point for the higher speed fan - does the lower speed circuit go dead when the higher speed one switches in, leaving me with no fan at all?

[MidLifeCrisis]

I'm pretty sure that there is a relay involved in the high speed circuit.
And if you can see the wire colours then ...
Red/White = 12v
Red/Black = low speed
Red/Blue = High speed (to the relay)

[CJH]

Thank you - that gives me something to go at tomorrow evening.

[CovKid]

Chris it may not on be on the fuseboard - mine certainly isn't - its above the earth crowns on a bracket. The connections to this relay can corrode just as badly as earth crowns causing heat build-up and a blown fuse and/or failure at high speed. In fact the relay only comes into play at high speed. I thought my motor was finished until I shone a torch up there - unplugged and reseated relay, no more blown fuses, fan working once more.