TONYT25T25 wrote: ↑27 Feb 2022, 17:45
Is there any mileage in using the normal bushes in certain areas and cutting them in half and using the same principal as the Powerflex ones
I've wondered that too actually. I guess the downside would be the integrity of the bush is compromised, but could it make that much difference? Especially when it's replacing something which is knackered and been in place for countless years anyway.
rubber bushes have the steel bushes moulded integral, if you cut them you will probably find the arms migrate even more than they normally do and then they will be rubbing on the chassis.
You need the reducing tool to fit the rubber bushes, and suitable lube; it can be done with the threaded bar method as per Bentley with the tool, but it is slightly easier with a press and 4 hands
I prefer the compliance of the rubber over poly, but poly is easier to fit; the original rubber was geenrally good for 20 years, it will be interesting to see if poly does as well for as long
TONYT25T25 wrote: ↑27 Feb 2022, 17:45
Is there any mileage in using the normal bushes in certain areas and cutting them in half and using the same principal as the Powerflex ones, or is this risky due to strength and density of the normal bushes, vaguely remember this being mentioned some time back in another post.
Yes. But for the rear suspension arms. It was discussed about cutting original bush in half and fitting a la Powerflex. Yet to hear of anyone actually doing so, though.
MaxStu
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
I'm seriously considering it, slicing through the middle with a 1mm grinding disc then installing. Even if they only last a handful of years it is such as easy job to do I don't mind doing it again, and at just around £8 each they can be done several times over the expensive Powerflex ones. Surely they would be back to 'normal' once fitted and torqued up, and be far batter than the decades old ones that are currently in place.
Tracking, camber and toe in settings for starters. Then excess tyre wear. Unbalanced braking even?
As said by Aidan. The bushes may well migrate back or forward; also mentioned in JA's video too.
Not saying any of the above will happen. But if you are into long term ownership of your current camper either go original uncut or Powerflex.
As l mentioned earlier, in 2020 I did everything up front with original OEM apart from one place. I used Powerflex on the steering rack because the PAS system hardly gives any room to work with rack attached to solid hydraulics pipe.
I paid for laser tracking (l did all the rear in 2019) front and back. The transformation was incredible.
Then someone mentioned getting PAS rack serviced! Where do you stop?
MaxStu
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
But all that from cutting a bush in half and losing 1mm, on a vehicle in it's 4th decade who's tolerances will be nothing like they used to be anyway, which has been happily driving around on visibly deteriorated old bushes for who knows how long.
I'm not saying you're not right, just not convinced that it wouldbn't make much difference in reality.
I bet back in the 70s (where I still live), people did this all the time had a cup of tea and didn't fuss about it.
You're quite right with these old vehicles - where do you stop! They're never finished.
Oh so true. Reading back, I think l may have gone over the top with the old 'elf and safety!
It was driven into me, as a manager, when inspecting (and using) laser and bench guillotines in my job. You don't feck about with a razor sharp blade pushing down at two tonnes!
Keep us posted, though. Why not consider the cut though. Cant see how you are going to get a decent cut through rubber.
Perhaps at 45 degrees instead of straight through. Prevent one side spinning?
MaxStu
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
Fully understand, we had guillotine operators at my previous jobs. And actually had a machine related death on the factory floor unfortunately, not related to guillotine, so I do understand things from a health and safety point of view as that went to a very hgh level after that. I was thinking of cutting the bush at an angle also, great minds and all that, so that it would interlock to some degree. Although, if I've read the Haynes right the bolt is torqued to 90nm so I can't imagine it rotating really or even much consequence if it did. Yes will defintely intend to post results one way or the other, as it's awful when people start a thread off and it never concludes.
maxstu wrote: ↑26 Feb 2022, 18:43
Go powerflex if you can
Well, I took your advice, and decided to go Powerflex, the ease of fitting them is just too enticing. I've ordered them from Powerflex themselves, as everything is free postage from them meaning they are much cheaper than the usual camper sellers. They've been dispatched just a few hours after ordering too. The old bushes are off, will give it a clean up under there then pop them in when they come. Thanks again for all the replies and info, very good of you and much appreciated.
Aidan wrote: ↑28 Feb 2022, 10:15
rubber bushes have the steel bushes moulded integral, if you cut them you will probably find the arms migrate even more than they normally do and then they will be rubbing on the chassis.
You need the reducing tool to fit the rubber bushes, and suitable lube; it can be done with the threaded bar method as per Bentley with the tool, but it is slightly easier with a press and 4 hands
I prefer the compliance of the rubber over poly, but poly is easier to fit; the original rubber was geenrally good for 20 years, it will be interesting to see if poly does as well for as long
I’m in the middle of doing all these bushes , I have the track control arm bushes OE from Brickwerks , I took the arms to local garage ( who I use for mots etc ) . They said these bushes are not the right ones for the arms because they look a bit too short , and they did not have the correct tool to press them in …. They pressed the upper wishbone ,and lower ball joints in ok .
what is the reducing tool I need ? I’ve the posts here saying you can manage it with threaded bar ,nuts etc. Im tempted to buy a bush removal kit and have a go myself .
Poly bushes are crazy expensive and are they really way better ?
the rubber bushes do look a bit short when not fitted but if you measure the centre steel tube and compare with the old ones you'll see that is right
For the front LCA the reducing tube tool is 3053, Brickie sells a cheap copy for £6 which is a bargain, in Bentley 40.9 it shows use with a press, the rears are very similar (different size, so different tube) and shows installation with threaded bar and suitable make up tools, and brickies does say threaded bar and tube and washers method applies
You will find you have to press through a bit to get the lip seated properly and then slight press back to complete and centre the bush correctly, it can be an a*** of a job - recommended lube is tyre seat paste
Aidan wrote: ↑Today, 08:59
the rubber bushes do look a bit short when not fitted but if you measure the centre steel tube and compare with the old ones you'll see that is right
For the front LCA the reducing tube tool is 3053, Brickie sells a cheap copy for £6 which is a bargain, in Bentley 40.9 it shows use with a press, the rears are very similar (different size, so different tube) and shows installation with threaded bar and suitable make up tools, and brickies does say threaded bar and tube and washers method applies
You will find you have to press through a bit to get the lip seated properly and then slight press back to complete and centre the bush correctly, it can be an a*** of a job - recommended lube is tyre seat paste
Yes that’s what I said to the garage , that once they were pressed in they may be the right length.
Thanks for the info
Ok so quick update , I had some 12mm threaded bar in the garage . Went and got a 2” pipe nipple from plumbers merchants and a few other bits , nuts and washers etc . I’ve got a vice etc , I heated up the bush in cup of hot water for 10mins , held the TCA in the vice , put the threaded bar right through all components, then pulled the bush in with the nuts, fairy liquid to help it . I pulled the bush tight onto the TCA hole , then pushed the lip in bit by bit with a large flat head screwdriver and tightened the nut bit by bit , once the lip is in you can pull the bush in with a spanner in the nut . The 2” nipple on the other side allows the bush to be pulled through far enough for the lip to locate properly outside of the TCA .
Job sorted no fancy hydraulic press or bush tools, just a bit of thinking .
Garages just can’t be arsed these days , the garage said to me just get a new TCA with the bush already in. Ridiculous…
